Just to give more credit to this method, Japan has always been a country that had very little iron resources, so back then they had to be innovative with wood and made sure the stuff they were making/building with it would last long and be durable. Yakisugi still to this day one of the best wood treatment process. Because it deals with very little to no chemicals and is tried and tested over the ages.
Nice work! I'm a hardwood floor refinisher so I know Bona finish very well. You can definitely role it on but use a microfiber roller. That won't leave bubbles. Put it on thicker with each coat and it will lay out flat without the need to brush it out. You can also use those deck pads/paint pads, just go with the grain. That's how I do stairs because it works best when doing vertical surfaces. A foam brush for tight spaces. It tends to run so can't put it on thick on the vertical surfaces but because it's water base finish, you can build up the coats without abrading as long as you coat inside 24 hours. Then for a final coat you can abrade it with 220 to smooth it out and apply your final coat as generously as possible without runs. Smoth out runs when it's wet with foam brush.
@@MileHighRedoy hadn’t thought of scratch resistance to be honest. Good point. I might do some patch tests and see what looks and holds up the best. I am doing a whole garden upgrade in the spring with Yakisugi decking, garden creek and pergola, maybe I should record the process 😀. Thanks for the reply 👍
@Solid_Jackson no silly... the expression, "right on". They get a kick out of "far out" too. My kids are adults, and yeah they get a kick out of my art projects which will include big burnt wood. Lololol
Pro life tip for anyone interested, build a fire pit out of an old washing machine tub by removing it and mounting it to an aluminum car rim. This type of fireplace gets so much induction air from all of the perforated holes that it creates an extremely hot fire and air stream through the top of the tub. Now you can go out in your yard start a fire in your pit, stand up wind and start charring your boards lightly or the more traditional deeper char way quite easily, have you a bucket of water to dip the first burnt end in to or a spray hose and you can easily hold it to finish charring the other end. This is the cheapest and most effective way as the fuel is just firewood and the materials for the fire pit are literally scrap yard material but do require some basic tools to disassemble the washing machine to get the drum out and small number of self tapping metal screws, most importantly though you can consciously choose the char level as the fuel cost isn't playing a factor
Yes! So easy! I’ve used all kinds of finishes over the years. The Bona is so nice. No stink, running fans, taking ibuprofen for the headaches! This stuff dries so fast and it looks great! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Right On! 🙌
Burning wood can be interesting for effect. Have made several items for my grandkids using the torch method. You get some awesome patterns from the grains of wood. The heat makes the grains pop. Or stand out from the rest of the wood. Modern furniture and cabinets tend to be darker in color. This I see as an easy way to achieve that.
Very nice …like the burned wood finish…I did something similar but used a simi…soft wire brush and it comes out 3 D between spring and summer growth …just a different texture in the right places…think I used fur and pine for the right grain texture…??
i tried using vinyl siding i had left over from a job. the chimney was a challenge and smelled awful . id suggest using real would only!! also be careful what liquids you put on it !! some are very flammable !
Your reference to samurai is hilarious. Seems like you are living in the Pacific Northwest now either in Canada or the US. Did you ever live in Japan? I’m Canadian living in Japan for going on 12 years now. Doing lots of DIY Reno’s on my traditional Japanese-style house. Love the stark contrast between the yakisugi wood and white porcelain. Hey, are those your bison?! Love them.
Helo, do you know what i have to use for finish yakishugi to make them hard and resistant to damage? I tried a lots of oils but after 2 years som of my yakisgugi are damaged a little bit from rain, sun e.t.c
@@77791z yes titebond 2 will work great. Even better if you use a biscuit joiner. The weed burner torch works perfectly. Be sure to keep the clamps on overnight 👍
@@RightOnJonCrane Okay cool. Yea I planed the edges before I glued it together. There’s a bit of a gap in one part tho so I wanted use wood filler before put the finish but wasn’t sure if it’d look weird or melt.. Good to know the glue will hold I wasn’t sure about that either. Thanks for getting back to me
@@77791z It’s good to do both sides with the torch so the wood looses moisture evenly and doesn’t start to cup. Do a little on each side flipping back and forth. Only a couple times.
Well done bro ! Thank you . I would like to recommend that the volume of the music was a few decibels to loud in relation to your voice . I mean no disrespect . Actually it's a compliment to your speaking voice . So I will not apologize . How long from start to finish ? Once again thank you very calming to watch .
Right On! 👍🙌 No it can be a variety of different woods. In this video I used three different woods. Fir, hemlock, and cedar. All come out slightly different. Hemlock was great!!
Thanks for video. What do you recommend for porch boards to be used on a covered porch that will get some weather/rain which are fired with propane torch? This sealer? Or if I wanted to stain it with some color, would a deck stain be OK ? I've seen videos where they use linseed oil and turpentine after the fire treatment on decks but not sure if you can color stain after you do that. My wood is just yellow pine tongue and groove.
The butane method doesn't seem to work so well, the acetylene torch works great... but the traditional method looks amazing... it may be the wood species you've used for it but it definitely looks with more character.
Yes! 🙌🔥 It all depends on what the finish product will be used for. Here a deep burn with the traditional method would work great for siding but for furniture a lighter char is better. I did not want chunks flaking off. The propane actually works really good for this. Thanks for watching! Right ON! 👍
Do you brush after spraying it with water or just leave it as is and oil? Looks incredible I'm going to try doing this to the interior area of a cedar sculpture next week I'd like to leave it in the suyaki phase
For the siding planks I leave it like it is. Sometimes oil and sometimes not. The oil finish could be nice for a sculpture to trap any soot particles. I would do a test sample. The cedar comes out great. Depending on how long you let it burn, changes the depth of the crackle. If you go too long pieces start to fall off. There is a wide range from lightly burned to heavily charred. Hope your sculpture turns out amazing! Thanks for watching! 🙌🔥🔥🔥
Thank you! I have been looking for someone using this technique on furniture for ages. Only other I have seen experienced problems with the wood warping during the burn. Have you experienced this?
Hello Jon! Thanks for the great video. I did the walls of my barn like this, but one side, the one facing south (I live in Canada) I haven't brushed it at all. I really like the looks of it and was pretty curious to see how different will it age compared to the other sides (brushed and oiled) But my main concern is if my barn can catch fire because I have not brushed it? I understood that this technique makes it pretty fireproof, but I thought it was considering that you brushed it and remove all the burnt pieces that lays on top of the boards as it is sort of sealing the grain. Now I'm a bit scared that the planks catch fire even more easily now that is is pre-burnt... In your video, you seems to express that the traditional way is just to burn the planks. I just wanna make sure I understood it right. (by the way I am using hemlock if it makes any difference) Thank you very much !
So, I love your work but the vainty top has some big voids that will in time be filled with (ugly) stuff. My question is: if your were to fill in the voids, how would you do it and what would you fill them up with? Would you fill them BEFORE burning? (I tried numerous wood fillers, plastic wood, etc but they all melted or caked up and broke out). I am dealing with this problem on a big table top right now so I really do welcome some suggestions!
Hi Bob! Thanks for watching! If I wanted to fill the voids I would fill them after burning. Prep the wood for finish and fill the voids with epoxy. Tape the bottom side with metal HVAC tape and fill with epoxy from the top using a map gas torch to pop any bubbles that arise. You can tint the epoxy using Mixol color tint. I would use west system or total boat table top epoxy. Hope that helps! 🙌☘️✨ Right On!
ב''ה, there are various kneadable 2-part epoxy 'doughs' , some that might claim to take finish or might somewhat if mixed with sawdust. If I were using this in a personal bathroom project I'd see how the generic white two-part dough sold for plumbing projects works out with this technique. It's extremely hard after it cures and did okay for dry rot repair on post sheathing, however you'll want to scrape it perfectly flat while it's workable as it will be impossible to sand once cured. Would be interesting to see how the contrast works with this technique. Cost might be an issue for large voids. Otherwise, from experience, I'd probably try to build up with that, or titebond, sawdust and patience, and veneer over the spots. Doweling a thick plug even with some toothpicks might help, particularly at opposing angles. Aim for materials with similar rates of expansion.
Hello, I get Red Cedar and Hemlock, and what was the third wood? Sorry I am not english native speaker. Thank you and Thank you for this inspiring Video.
I really, really liked your samurai jokes. Especially that joke were you explaine you have to watch out for that samurai because you are not using the traditional way of woodcharring. In japan everything has to be traditional, right?
Sits Yakisuge not shu sugi ban? I did my machete handle for practice ( TH-cam blacksmith taught) I used twin burner propane torch. Gave it a beautiful pattern but my handle after after a lot of cutting with the Machete? Looks good and the steel I used was extremely hard. I love this artwork! I restored a bowie knife! Polished stainless steel blade with a Yakisuge handle coated in epoxy clear resin! ( restoration) top video. Cheers from Australia 🙂 Btw I tried a light burn on pine and the grain really pops out after sanding with a scotchbrite style sandpaper for handyman jobs. Love it.
@@RightOnJonCrane hi mate. I sent you an email with the bowie knife picture. The picture doesn't do it justice if you know what I mean? I had to wet grind 3mm from base of handle to the toe of the knife. I hope you like it? My first restoration. A bit more touching up and I'll be really happy! Cheers dude Thanks heaps 🙂👍👍👍
So it doesnt work well on like Oak? I tried burning a small plate but that started to warp even I sprayed water in between.. Next day it did get almost back to its straight form but not completely. This was dry oak btw
Right On! 🙌 It Japan they traditionally use Cypress which is Japanese Cedar. It’s very similar wood. In Japan they have a very detailed way of harvesting the cypress. I used western red cedar as I live in the Pacific Northwest. 🌲🌲 Lots of cedar here! Thanks for watching!
I’m building an outdoor chair and am having a difficult time deciding how to seal it from the weather and still make it safe to sit on is that sealant what you’d recommend? In the past I tried polyurethane and that was a disaster of how hard it was to apply a smooth finish.
Thank you for this! How long do you usually let it burn for, if doing that triangle method? or is there kind of a range of what would be too little and too much, if you're going for actual protection from the elements, insects, and fire, when using it as siding? And the Cedar you used, I was surprised it didn't have more designs showing in it after brushing, as I've seen Cedar often have when yakisugi'd. Was that just because you hadn't standard it further? The type or choice of cedar boards you had used? And lastly, if you were to stain it some color, presumably after having sanded it further, do you know what stage of the process that would happen at & how? I wonder if there are certain kinds of stain that would be recommended for outdoor use on charred/brushed wood. Guessing it'd be applied at the same stage you'd applied your finish. Thank you! 🙏🏼 Building a tiny house over here and I've been planning to use this method, for years now! 🤞🏼 getting very close to the time when I need to actually do the charring! 🔥🚪🏡🔥 🐉
Right on! That’s cool you are building a tiny home. The burn all depends on the moisture content of the wood and how deep you want to char to go into the wood. The balance is not so charred that it flakes off in chunks but still remains intact. As for the furniture I was making I wanted just the coloring and not so much a crackled look. I made beds, a bath vanity and some other furniture for the house. After finishing I didn’t want the char to flake off and stain bed sheets etc. I used water base finish to seal it and I wanted to make sure it would bond well to the charred wood. For siding you can use a clear oil finish to seal it in. Although it is weather resistant, it is not necessarily fire resistant by any means. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Right On! 🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane Wow, thank you so much for your helpful response! Yeah, I've seen anywhere from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, for the length of time to be burning it for... I'm trying to get some kind of reasonable ballpark idea to start with, of how long to burn it for without having to waste a bunch of precious and expensive siding wood in the process of figuring it out! 🙈 And I'm hoping to get that visual effect of having the lovely grain and wavy lines show through... after sanding or brushing the top layer off. It seems Cedar is best for that, as well as for use in exterior applications generally speaking. I'm not too keen on contributing to the harvesting of old-growth forests in the PNW &c., so I'm trying to figure out if any other types of wood might be as amenable and appealing to me. 🤔 Not sure I'll find anything as good as Cedar though!
I’m new to this technique and have been wanting to try it. But I’m confused and curious about something. If this technique is weatherproof, and has withstood the outer elements in buildings in Japan, why is it necessary to treat it with the floor treatment? Is it only for aesthetics, for the feel, or what?
Hi Susan! Thanks for watching! Good question! When this is burned and used as siding it is not something that you are necessarily going to run your hands over. The surface will be brittle and dusty like charcoal thus rubbing off and turning black whatever it touches. The rain and the weather will eventually wash away that dust. In my case I am making furniture and I want to seal it so it doesn’t stain fabrics that come in contact with it such as towels or bed sheets or clothing. Hope that helps! Right On! 🙌
Right On Roger! 🙌🍕✨ I haven’t put wax on but I’m sure that would work great. I do like Johnsons paste wax. Although if you want to recoat at anytime the wax might need to be taken off. But you could also put another coat of wax on at anytime.
I would argue that this is ancient human knowledge, not specifically Japanese. Early humans would have noticed how long charred stumps lasted after a forest fire compared to the stump of a fallen tree. We've understood for a very long time that char protects wood from moisture and insects. What's uniquely Japanese is the amount they used in their building. Europeans and westerners mostly charred bords that were in contact with the ground, like cellar boards and ground posts. The old collapsed cellar on my grandpas farm in Quebec Canada was made of wood charred on the outside. The original fence pots on the homestead were charred at their bases, are only a few left standing, they rotted from the top down.
What's the difference between the one that got burnt A LOT and the 3 others that were just surface burned? Do you finish the one that got burned A LOT?
@@Gumden I know cypress tend to be larger trees, up to 3x the size of cedars, with denser wood (yet larger/rougher end grain) that isn't as fragrant as cedar and is usually more rot resistant than cedar. It definitely would be better choice for siding, and usually available in longer lengths for building. That said, there actually is a "Cypress Cedar," and a couple false cedars (American western red cedar being a cypress and eastern red cedar--or "aromatic" cedar-- actually being a juniper).
Yakisugi is the technique used for wood preservation and weather proofing. Shou Sugi Ban is more of an artistic styled finish for a specific decorative appearance. It's decorative, although some people may use Yakisugi for its charred wood finish appearance which is quite rustic. Shou Sugi Ban is used more for bringing out the finer wood grain appearance more prominently.
I call that type of finish "sho-sugi-ban lite". You don't burn it or brush it back as much as in regular sho-sugi-ban. I was going for a sho-sugi-ban and black cherry burst on a recent guitar build, but ended up with yakisugi instead: th-cam.com/video/4B1qAZgYdIw/w-d-xo.html
@@InchFab dunno where u got that idea dude. I most certainly did watch the video. Is there some sort of sho-sugi-ban vs yakisugi thing? Yakisugi advocates seem to think everyone else is full of it. whatever you call it, its a brushed burnt wood finish - looks cool on guitars, but it's hard on the necks. I just did one the other day, and I'll probably never do another.
Just to give more credit to this method, Japan has always been a country that had very little iron resources, so back then they had to be innovative with wood and made sure the stuff they were making/building with it would last long and be durable. Yakisugi still to this day one of the best wood treatment process. Because it deals with very little to no chemicals and is tried and tested over the ages.
Nice work!
I'm a hardwood floor refinisher so I know Bona finish very well. You can definitely role it on but use a microfiber roller. That won't leave bubbles. Put it on thicker with each coat and it will lay out flat without the need to brush it out. You can also use those deck pads/paint pads, just go with the grain. That's how I do stairs because it works best when doing vertical surfaces. A foam brush for tight spaces. It tends to run so can't put it on thick on the vertical surfaces but because it's water base finish, you can build up the coats without abrading as long as you coat inside 24 hours. Then for a final coat you can abrade it with 220 to smooth it out and apply your final coat as generously as possible without runs. Smoth out runs when it's wet with foam brush.
Right On! 👍🙌 Nice to hear your technique! I do have another video of finishing a fur floor with Bona. I used the deck pad. Thanks for your comment!!
Great tips! For outdoor decking would you go with the mat, silk or gloss Bona?
@@FFTuk I honestly haven't done any of the outdoor oil. I know that gloss and even semi gloss will show more scratches than a satin or matte.
@@MileHighRedoy hadn’t thought of scratch resistance to be honest. Good point. I might do some patch tests and see what looks and holds up the best. I am doing a whole garden upgrade in the spring with Yakisugi decking, garden creek and pergola, maybe I should record the process 😀. Thanks for the reply 👍
Thanks Jon! My wife is from Japan, and she rolls her eyes every time she sees a westerner using the "sho sugi ban" term
Yeah because only the Japanese can char wood correctly. Westerners dont have the Intellect to put flame to wood.
@bezaleljaeger308 kinda like how people say Philly cheese steak right..?
This is America not japan you people need to learn the difference. In America this is called Shou Sugi Ban. Get over it and stop being a crybaby.
Not japan carpenter...
She sounds like a real peach! Lol
Awesome ! I love the true tradesman band-aid !
I say right on all the time. I'm 68. Kids love it. Lol
Cool video
Kids love you talking to them about your big burnt wood?
@Solid_Jackson no silly... the expression, "right on". They get a kick out of "far out" too.
My kids are adults, and yeah they get a kick out of my art projects which will include big burnt wood. Lololol
@@kerricorser4562 fair play 😂
Great work! And thanks for the lesson on correct terminology! I love this look!!
That bathroom turned out really nice. Love the Yakisugi! 😃👍🏼
Thanks David!! 🙌✨ And thanks for the wood! I’m glad you get to see the finished product. The fruits of your labor. ✨👏💪
love the bathroom unit - given me an idea!
Right On! 🙌Thanks! That’s not your average vanity! 🙌
Looks amazing. What a great feature
Gorgeous work!
That IS good finish, I used it for years on hardwood floors.
Very creative! Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Right On Tony! 🙌✨🍕 Thanks!
How apropos, I just picked up a couple of pizzas and up pops a new video from Jon for me to watch while I eat.
That sounds perfect! 🍕✨ Pretty much how I watch a lot of TH-cam videos! Get myself set up with some good food and dive into some videos. 🥓
Great job. I like the oar towel racks.
yeah lovely result
So cool!
Great video!
Amazing. Awesome. Slick.
Pro life tip for anyone interested, build a fire pit out of an old washing machine tub by removing it and mounting it to an aluminum car rim. This type of fireplace gets so much induction air from all of the perforated holes that it creates an extremely hot fire and air stream through the top of the tub. Now you can go out in your yard start a fire in your pit, stand up wind and start charring your boards lightly or the more traditional deeper char way quite easily, have you a bucket of water to dip the first burnt end in to or a spray hose and you can easily hold it to finish charring the other end. This is the cheapest and most effective way as the fuel is just firewood and the materials for the fire pit are literally scrap yard material but do require some basic tools to disassemble the washing machine to get the drum out and small number of self tapping metal screws, most importantly though you can consciously choose the char level as the fuel cost isn't playing a factor
Right On! 🙌 sounds cool! 🔥🔥🔥
Bona is so easy to use and so forgiving
Yes! So easy! I’ve used all kinds of finishes over the years. The Bona is so nice. No stink, running fans, taking ibuprofen for the headaches! This stuff dries so fast and it looks great! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Right On! 🙌
BEAUTIFUL!!!
Looks nice. Good job!
First timer on this channel. The way you talk and your voice remind me of Alan Watts. Thank you for the thorough explanation
Interesting finish!👍
Right On Magdad! 🙌✨ Happy New Year 🎊
Nice looking vanity. Looks like a fun project too
This was a great project! Lots of fun. 🙌✨ Thanks for watching!
Outstanding Jon! Looks great!
Right On John! 🙌🔥 Nothing like getting the torch out and making something cool!
May yoshi bless you on your travels
finally someone using the correct term, My girls is model from Japan
Beautiful!
Right On Vic! 🙌 Thanks!!
Thanks a lot for the explanation.
Perfectly made - Greetings from Germany
Amazing finish Jon. Thanks for the instructional video
Right on John! 🙌🍕 Thanks for watching!
Great video and nice results you achieved.
Right On! 🙌 Thanks for watching! 👍
Great my dear friend. Best wishes to you 👍 Happy🎉New🎉Year🥂
I've always called it, "sho sugi ban". Had no idea I was being an idiot.
Awesome job, love the look and finished product.
Thanks Randy! I really like the color and texture of the wood! 🔥
wooooaa, that look is sick nice :D
Nice work 👍🏼👍🏼
Great !
Just call it burnt wood and get over it 😊
🤡
Burning wood can be interesting for effect. Have made several items for my grandkids using the torch method. You get some awesome patterns from the grains of wood. The heat makes the grains pop. Or stand out from the rest of the wood. Modern furniture and cabinets tend to be darker in color. This I see as an easy way to achieve that.
Very nice …like the burned wood finish…I did something similar but used a simi…soft wire brush and it comes out 3 D between spring and summer growth …just a different texture in the right places…think I used fur and pine for the right grain texture…??
Right On Chuck! 🔥 I think it’s a great alternative to stain. No blotchy spots and the color is great!
demasiadooo buennooo muchas gracias, pongase unos guantesitos si mi bro
i tried using vinyl siding i had left over from a job. the chimney was a challenge and smelled awful . id suggest using real would only!! also be careful what liquids you put on it !! some are very flammable !
Your reference to samurai is hilarious. Seems like you are living in the Pacific Northwest now either in Canada or the US. Did you ever live in Japan? I’m Canadian living in Japan for going on 12 years now. Doing lots of DIY Reno’s on my traditional Japanese-style house. Love the stark contrast between the yakisugi wood and white porcelain. Hey, are those your bison?! Love them.
Helo, do you know what i have to use for finish yakishugi to make them hard and resistant to damage? I tried a lots of oils but after 2 years som of my yakisgugi are damaged a little bit from rain, sun e.t.c
I tried that on a project a while back. I had trouble with the glue joints separating from the heat.
Yes! I am using titebond-3 it seems to hold up really well to the heat and only after 24 hrs dry time.
@@RightOnJonCrane Do you think tightbond 2 would hold? And if I use wood filler before would that be an issue? I’m using a weed burner torch
@@77791z yes titebond 2 will work great. Even better if you use a biscuit joiner. The weed burner torch works perfectly. Be sure to keep the clamps on overnight 👍
@@RightOnJonCrane Okay cool. Yea I planed the edges before I glued it together. There’s a bit of a gap in one part tho so I wanted use wood filler before put the finish but wasn’t sure if it’d look weird or melt.. Good to know the glue will hold I wasn’t sure about that either. Thanks for getting back to me
@@77791z It’s good to do both sides with the torch so the wood looses moisture evenly and doesn’t start to cup. Do a little on each side flipping back and forth. Only a couple times.
Well done bro ! Thank you . I would like to recommend that the volume of the music was a few decibels to loud in relation to your voice . I mean no disrespect . Actually it's a compliment to your speaking voice . So I will not apologize . How long from start to finish ? Once again thank you very calming to watch .
I'm about to do this to some boards that I'm going to put on a trailer, my sword is sharp just in case the samurai do show up.
Ha! Right On! 🙌 Yes, wax on and wax off! Now show me paint the fence!
wow! turned out amazing!
Right On! 👍 Thanks Dan!
very nice
Looks fab. Can I use it to weatherproof untreated pine for outdoor use do you think?
VERY INTERESTING 🤔
does this need to be cedar? if not are there other woods that would work better than others?
Right On! 👍🙌 No it can be a variety of different woods. In this video I used three different woods. Fir, hemlock, and cedar. All come out slightly different. Hemlock was great!!
Interesting video. I've been annoyed by "shou sugi ban" too.
Please note that "sugi" means cedar, not cypress (which is "hinoki").
Thank you for the correction ☺️
This looks ilke Shou Sugi Ban yo!
What is the beat at the end?
Great video! just wondered if you get any warping/bowing problems from the burning?
Good Work! Bona mega mate use in this work?
Right On! 👍✨ Thanks Cristian! Yeah I really like the Bona Mega. So easy to work with and very durable. 🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane excelent! the finish is mate or silkmat?
@@CristianBuena oh I see! I used Satin finish
@@CristianBuena amzn.to/3UAD2z3
@@RightOnJonCrane Thank you bro! 💯
Thanks for video. What do you recommend for porch boards to be used on a covered porch that will get some weather/rain which are fired with propane torch? This sealer? Or if I wanted to stain it with some color, would a deck stain be OK ? I've seen videos where they use linseed oil and turpentine after the fire treatment on decks but not sure if you can color stain after you do that. My wood is just yellow pine tongue and groove.
The butane method doesn't seem to work so well, the acetylene torch works great... but the traditional method looks amazing... it may be the wood species you've used for it but it definitely looks with more character.
Yes! 🙌🔥 It all depends on what the finish product will be used for. Here a deep burn with the traditional method would work great for siding but for furniture a lighter char is better. I did not want chunks flaking off. The propane actually works really good for this. Thanks for watching! Right ON! 👍
hey man i want somethink like this for a wetroom do you think it will make it waterpoof
great video :D , i did immagine Cleveland Brown from family guy narate this :D voice is so similar :D i say this with love :D
How do stop the wood from bowing with the heat? Thanks
Right On! 🙌 It’s good to burn both sides if the boards are cupping. Also good to seal both sides as well. 👍
Do you brush after spraying it with water or just leave it as is and oil? Looks incredible I'm going to try doing this to the interior area of a cedar sculpture next week I'd like to leave it in the suyaki phase
For the siding planks I leave it like it is. Sometimes oil and sometimes not. The oil finish could be nice for a sculpture to trap any soot particles. I would do a test sample. The cedar comes out great. Depending on how long you let it burn, changes the depth of the crackle. If you go too long pieces start to fall off. There is a wide range from lightly burned to heavily charred. Hope your sculpture turns out amazing! Thanks for watching! 🙌🔥🔥🔥
Thank you! I have been looking for someone using this technique on furniture for ages. Only other I have seen experienced problems with the wood warping during the burn. Have you experienced this?
I tried this with plastic vinyl, why didn't this work the same way...
Hello Jon! Thanks for the great video. I did the walls of my barn like this, but one side, the one facing south (I live in Canada) I haven't brushed it at all. I really like the looks of it and was pretty curious to see how different will it age compared to the other sides (brushed and oiled) But my main concern is if my barn can catch fire because I have not brushed it? I understood that this technique makes it pretty fireproof, but I thought it was considering that you brushed it and remove all the burnt pieces that lays on top of the boards as it is sort of sealing the grain. Now I'm a bit scared that the planks catch fire even more easily now that is is pre-burnt... In your video, you seems to express that the traditional way is just to burn the planks. I just wanna make sure I understood it right. (by the way I am using hemlock if it makes any difference) Thank you very much !
I'd love to see your Barn! Both styles of charring.
Jon, what glue do you use. My glue melts when I burn the wood. Thanks.
Could you show how to use this technique with bamboo?
Thanks for the video! Excellent demonstration. Don't your find that wood cups a lot when your apply the flame? I experience problems with that.
So, I love your work but the vainty top has some big voids that will in time be filled with (ugly) stuff. My question is: if your were to fill in the voids, how would you do it and what would you fill them up with? Would you fill them BEFORE burning? (I tried numerous wood fillers, plastic wood, etc but they all melted or caked up and broke out). I am dealing with this problem on a big table top right now so I really do welcome some suggestions!
Hi Bob! Thanks for watching! If I wanted to fill the voids I would fill them after burning. Prep the wood for finish and fill the voids with epoxy. Tape the bottom side with metal HVAC tape and fill with epoxy from the top using a map gas torch to pop any bubbles that arise.
You can tint the epoxy using Mixol color tint. I would use west system or total boat table top epoxy. Hope that helps! 🙌☘️✨ Right On!
ב''ה, there are various kneadable 2-part epoxy 'doughs' , some that might claim to take finish or might somewhat if mixed with sawdust.
If I were using this in a personal bathroom project I'd see how the generic white two-part dough sold for plumbing projects works out with this technique. It's extremely hard after it cures and did okay for dry rot repair on post sheathing, however you'll want to scrape it perfectly flat while it's workable as it will be impossible to sand once cured. Would be interesting to see how the contrast works with this technique. Cost might be an issue for large voids.
Otherwise, from experience, I'd probably try to build up with that, or titebond, sawdust and patience, and veneer over the spots. Doweling a thick plug even with some toothpicks might help, particularly at opposing angles. Aim for materials with similar rates of expansion.
Does this method not leave stain on body and clothes?
Hello, I get Red Cedar and Hemlock, and what was the third wood? Sorry I am not english native speaker. Thank you and Thank you for this inspiring Video.
7:48 : what about using linseed oil ?
What acidic is on the wood after the fire?
Hi! Not sure I understand? Acidic?
I really, really liked your samurai jokes.
Especially that joke were you explaine you have to watch out for that samurai because you are not using the traditional way of woodcharring.
In japan everything has to be traditional, right?
Sits Yakisuge not shu sugi ban? I did my machete handle for practice ( TH-cam blacksmith taught) I used twin burner propane torch. Gave it a beautiful pattern but my handle after after a lot of cutting with the Machete? Looks good and the steel I used was extremely hard. I love this artwork! I restored a bowie knife! Polished stainless steel blade with a Yakisuge handle coated in epoxy clear resin! ( restoration) top video. Cheers from Australia 🙂
Btw I tried a light burn on pine and the grain really pops out after sanding with a scotchbrite style sandpaper for handyman jobs. Love it.
Right On! 🙌👍 Ghats so cool! The yakisugi is awesome and it’s nice to hear what you’re doing with it! I’m sure it looks amazing!
@@RightOnJonCrane I'd love to send you a couple of pics?
@@dragan3290 jon@rightonwithjoncrane.com. 👍
@@RightOnJonCrane hi mate. I sent you an email with the bowie knife picture. The picture doesn't do it justice if you know what I mean? I had to wet grind 3mm from base of handle to the toe of the knife. I hope you like it? My first restoration. A bit more touching up and I'll be really happy! Cheers dude
Thanks heaps 🙂👍👍👍
@@dragan3290 It really came out great! Thanks for sending a pic!! 🙌🙌
So it doesnt work well on like Oak? I tried burning a small plate but that started to warp even I sprayed water in between.. Next day it did get almost back to its straight form but not completely. This was dry oak btw
At one time you said it was cypress, which you changed to cedar - which is it
Right On! 🙌 It Japan they traditionally use Cypress which is Japanese Cedar. It’s very similar wood. In Japan they have a very detailed way of harvesting the cypress. I used western red cedar as I live in the Pacific Northwest. 🌲🌲 Lots of cedar here! Thanks for watching!
I’m building an outdoor chair and am having a difficult time deciding how to seal it from the weather and still make it safe to sit on is that sealant what you’d recommend? In the past I tried polyurethane and that was a disaster of how hard it was to apply a smooth finish.
Hi Jon, is there a way to preserve the charcoal like texture without chunks flaking off? Thanks
PC Petrifier, multiple coats.
Still curious about the finger damage
Sharks 🦈
Thank you for this!
How long do you usually let it burn for, if doing that triangle method? or is there kind of a range of what would be too little and too much, if you're going for actual protection from the elements, insects, and fire, when using it as siding?
And the Cedar you used, I was surprised it didn't have more designs showing in it after brushing, as I've seen Cedar often have when yakisugi'd. Was that just because you hadn't standard it further? The type or choice of cedar boards you had used?
And lastly, if you were to stain it some color, presumably after having sanded it further, do you know what stage of the process that would happen at & how? I wonder if there are certain kinds of stain that would be recommended for outdoor use on charred/brushed wood.
Guessing it'd be applied at the same stage you'd applied your finish.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
Building a tiny house over here and I've been planning to use this method, for years now! 🤞🏼 getting very close to the time when I need to actually do the charring! 🔥🚪🏡🔥 🐉
Right on! That’s cool you are building a tiny home. The burn all depends on the moisture content of the wood and how deep you want to char to go into the wood. The balance is not so charred that it flakes off in chunks but still remains intact. As for the furniture I was making I wanted just the coloring and not so much a crackled look. I made beds, a bath vanity and some other furniture for the house. After finishing I didn’t want the char to flake off and stain bed sheets etc. I used water base finish to seal it and I wanted to make sure it would bond well to the charred wood. For siding you can use a clear oil finish to seal it in. Although it is weather resistant, it is not necessarily fire resistant by any means.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Right On! 🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane
Wow, thank you so much for your helpful response!
Yeah, I've seen anywhere from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, for the length of time to be burning it for... I'm trying to get some kind of reasonable ballpark idea to start with, of how long to burn it for without having to waste a bunch of precious and expensive siding wood in the process of figuring it out! 🙈
And I'm hoping to get that visual effect of having the lovely grain and wavy lines show through... after sanding or brushing the top layer off. It seems Cedar is best for that, as well as for use in exterior applications generally speaking. I'm not too keen on contributing to the harvesting of old-growth forests in the PNW &c., so I'm trying to figure out if any other types of wood might be as amenable and appealing to me. 🤔 Not sure I'll find anything as good as Cedar though!
Do you have to use a finish? What is the traditional method of “finishing” after it’s been wet and brushed?
Shou sugi ban sounds more like mandarin.
I’m new to this technique and have been wanting to try it. But I’m confused and curious about something. If this technique is weatherproof, and has withstood the outer elements in buildings in Japan, why is it necessary to treat it with the floor treatment? Is it only for aesthetics, for the feel, or what?
Hi Susan! Thanks for watching! Good question! When this is burned and used as siding it is not something that you are necessarily going to run your hands over. The surface will be brittle and dusty like charcoal thus rubbing off and turning black whatever it touches. The rain and the weather will eventually wash away that dust. In my case I am making furniture and I want to seal it so it doesn’t stain fabrics that come in contact with it such as towels or bed sheets or clothing. Hope that helps! Right On! 🙌
Very nice Jon! The bathroom looks beautiful. After you apply that finish do you put any kind of wax on it? The burned wood look is cool! 👍🇺🇸Roger
Right On Roger! 🙌🍕✨ I haven’t put wax on but I’m sure that would work great. I do like Johnsons paste wax. Although if you want to recoat at anytime the wax might need to be taken off. But you could also put another coat of wax on at anytime.
@@RightOnJonCraneThanks jon i put johnsons paste wax on tools i restore and ScoutCrafter uses Johnsons or Mequires wax. 👍🇺🇸
I would argue that this is ancient human knowledge, not specifically Japanese. Early humans would have noticed how long charred stumps lasted after a forest fire compared to the stump of a fallen tree. We've understood for a very long time that char protects wood from moisture and insects. What's uniquely Japanese is the amount they used in their building.
Europeans and westerners mostly charred bords that were in contact with the ground, like cellar boards and ground posts. The old collapsed cellar on my grandpas farm in Quebec Canada was made of wood charred on the outside. The original fence pots on the homestead were charred at their bases, are only a few left standing, they rotted from the top down.
Awesome vid! Does the burnt wood without the finish leave any charcoal residue when you touch it/ put towels on it?
Absolutely
How many towels you need? I counted 23/24 in that bathroom.
Will our American way of doing this still last as exterior protection?
Right On! 🙌Thanks for watching! Absolutely 👍 The method with the torch works great and will last a long time.
Burning wood is an insult to the tree any wood should show its grain and beauty
Right On Vini! 🙌✨ Thanks for watching!
I call it lite,medium and heavy charred wood.
Right On! 🙌 yes exactly! Charred wood! I’m all for calling it whatever works for you! Thanks for watching!
What's the difference between the one that got burnt A LOT and the 3 others that were just surface burned? Do you finish the one that got burned A LOT?
Depends on what u want to do, outdoor stuff? Then burn it more, furniture? Burn it less and maybe sand it until u see a mix of normal and burned wood.
Looks very dangerous process 😮. Is it?
By the way, French fries are also not French, in America people like to give things their own name.
Yeah I hear ya!! Basically it’s burned wood with some finish! 🔥🔥🔥🙌
2:50 Not japanese cypress, it is japanese cedar.
Right On! Thanks for watching! Interesting that Japanese cedar technically is not a True cedar but is actually cypress. 😊
@@RightOnJonCrane I think you are right - what does that actually mean?
@@Gumden I know cypress tend to be larger trees, up to 3x the size of cedars, with denser wood (yet larger/rougher end grain) that isn't as fragrant as cedar and is usually more rot resistant than cedar. It definitely would be better choice for siding, and usually available in longer lengths for building. That said, there actually is a "Cypress Cedar," and a couple false cedars (American western red cedar being a cypress and eastern red cedar--or "aromatic" cedar-- actually being a juniper).
Yakisugi is the technique used for wood preservation and weather proofing. Shou Sugi Ban is more of an artistic styled finish for a specific decorative appearance. It's decorative, although some people may use Yakisugi for its charred wood finish appearance which is quite rustic. Shou Sugi Ban is used more for bringing out the finer wood grain appearance more prominently.
Miss the tabla music..
Yes I love the tabla! I had some copyright issues with some of the music. 😕
Pizza is supposed to be a pie, not a tortilla with tomato sauce.
I love pizza! 🍕
How long does this technique preserve the wood? Should you put a stain after burning or leave it bare?
I call that type of finish "sho-sugi-ban lite". You don't burn it or brush it back as much as in regular sho-sugi-ban. I was going for a sho-sugi-ban and black cherry burst on a recent guitar build, but ended up with yakisugi instead: th-cam.com/video/4B1qAZgYdIw/w-d-xo.html
You didn't watch the video and we all know it.
@@InchFab dunno where u got that idea dude. I most certainly did watch the video. Is there some sort of sho-sugi-ban vs yakisugi thing? Yakisugi advocates seem to think everyone else is full of it. whatever you call it, its a brushed burnt wood finish - looks cool on guitars, but it's hard on the necks. I just did one the other day, and I'll probably never do another.