Just watched this video twice. I appreciated that the demonstration avoided the use of stain.Also, the close-up comparison of appearance and relief among the samples was thoughtful. Excellent video, sir.
Thanks for this video. I was just introduced to this process this week! I make coasters/trivets in wood and love this look. I usually add a colored resin to my design but for this I'm going to keep the wood pure and let this technique be the star!!
Yep the restorer is definitely what I wanna go with. The fence turned out good but very time intensive. Think I will do the TV wall in a shiplap like this in the wire brush.
It’s a great technique and been around for thousands of years. I’m just now getting into it for lots of applications. Barn siding, fence posts and boards, even going to use for paneling in my home. I read that charcoal is very carcinogenic and I suspect that we are dealing with the same substance. I intend to use the protection of a good quality respirator and vinyl gloves to avoid absorbing the dust via the skin. I noticed that the dust that is brushed away is visible and hazardous.
From my point of view, the 80 grit brush looks the best. Its have 2 good characteristic from the both sides. Its smoother & retains more color than steel brush & it have more contrast than the 180 grit brush.
It can but this does it so much more evenly and much quicker than that method. And it can be used for way more projects than just this with its many different types of rollers. Save time = save money.
Actually a scrub brush is even more cost effective and gives better results altogether. 2-3 dollars. Also you don’t have to hold it sideways at weird angles. You’re welcome 😉.
Great video! I am an experienced woodworker, but.never tried this. Now I have built 2 table tops using 2x8 SYP jointed together with biscuits and plan to use this technique question; what is the best way to minimize the cupping? Also, what stain would you recommend for either a red or a yellowish color?.thanks!
Awesome! I would burn prior to joining as the heat tends to pull those apart. As far as cupping buy extra wood as some will cup worse than others. As always alternate the boards as far as grain. Use lower heat. It takes longer. But higher heat tends to cup more. Wet with water to cool it down as you go. Not a ton just enough to stop the burn. Make sure to wet the other side as well. As far as stain I’ve not done that yet. Just straight sealer. But I would use General finishes wood dye.
You can! Here is another one of my videos showing how to do that. DIY Heavily Crackled Shou-Sugi-Ban Charred Cedar Planks Burnt Wood Burning th-cam.com/video/NylnCQ5PVWw/w-d-xo.html
I just stumbled onto this video today, and it answered a lot of questions. But I have another question for you; I have been planning on building a table using 2x8 SYP and the Shou Sufi Ban system. How well do you think this will work on 2x lumber, and what about cupping? Thanks.
Good question. The narrower the wood. The less likely the cupping. Syp is pretty soft. But also looks great with this technique. Be sure to seal it more than you normally would for any other project since it’s a table top
I use the steel one first to really get in the groves. Then the nylon to smooth it out after. Like use a heavy grit sand paper first then a lighter grit to make it smoother.
I didn't realize you can you use the map gas, I've been messing with the propane tank... I put spar urethane on some boards, is the other stuff good for outdoors ?
I've been wanting to do this with my bar shelves which are a 2-2.5in thick x 10-12in wide live edge oak. They are hung on 4 floating shelf steel brackets per shelf. I'm concerned about the cupping you mentioned also about any potential structural issue I might cause. What are your thoughts?
Let’s say I want to build a wall mount bathroom cabinet and do I burn it before I build it or after it’s all together? . If before will the glue work on it ? / I live in a log home and I think it will look great here . . Please respond. Great video. Oh yeah can I buy that electric wire sander at one of the big box stores so I can just pick it up instead of online B/S
I recommend prior to glue up. The wood will shrink and glue separate. Also if a board severely warps you can throw out that board and do another. The wire brush tool “restorer” used to be sold at Lowes but etc under different names. But now online. I really recommend it.
Bless you Vermont Jeff, I was just wondering the same thing, as I want to make some patio chairs with this technique and I was wondering if I should burn first or build first.
Look at the end grain for wood that comes from the outer part of the tree and not from the smaller center of the tree, pre spray with water and burn quickly then spray with water again. Some will cup worse than others. So have extra on hand. And lastly burn both sides.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks so much for this reply. The treads came out fantastic! I will keep a closer eye on end grain for the next project that will have this type of finish. Burning both sides definitely helped! This is all really good information, thanks again!!
@@PatL77 The trick is to burn the other side. Burn the side that is meant to be exposed . Brush it out and then burn the hidden side as well but monitor it as you go till the *cup* has flattened out. As he said earlier it IS about choosing the right pieces but in the end burning only one side will more often than not bring on movement in your piece
Got a question I’ve tried several sealants and oils, every time it comes out nearly black no matter how light of color the soft grain was after scrubbing. I’m curious if there’s any trick to keep it from darkening so much after sealing?
It’s the wood. Not the sealer. All sealers darken wood. If you want it lighter, prior to sealing you need to scrub it a lot to reveal a much lighter tone prior to sealing. Use some scrap pieces and experiment with different shades.
The deep dark, heavy burn (aka: alligator char) does absolutely help protect the wood. It helps close the pours of the wood to protect it from water damage, helps prevent pests/bugs from eating away at it as well as reduces its chance to burn or catch fire. When wood is burned. It’s hard to burn again do to the carbon build up. Just like charcoal. It burns. But burns slower because it’s already been heated and compressed.
Great question! Pressure treated should be okay absolutely do NOT burn chemical treated wood. Like the green stuff from big box stores. That would be horribly toxic smoke.
No. Minwax & Varathane both make a good Exterior water based Spar Urethane that would have the same effect as the Polycrylic would but with uv exterior protection. amzn.to/3fNN9Od amzn.to/2SuMWYe
Sorry, unfortunately trying to keep people’s attention is getting harder and harder. So I have to speed up some parts. Otherwise no one continues to watch and I get lost in the algorithm.
I hear yah! Granted I was sent mine for free to test out. But I was already wanting one. And I can honestly say that for the $150 or so your gonna spend on it and at least one brush this thing is worth it’s weight in gold! It saves so much time. Last year I skinned a fireplace in ShouSugiBan and made a big mantle to match. I scrubbed each board all by hand. I went through multiple brushes. And spent two full days scrubbing the wood. If I had this tool those two days would have been cut down to half a day at least if not more. That job alone would have paid for the tool. If I had thought about it then I would have just added the price of the tool into the job & then passed on the savings in labor onto the customer. And if your doing a wall or siding or a fence just for yourself it works the same way! Not to mention it works as a paint scraper, sander, polisher and more. I use it a few times a week in my shop professionally.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I agree! No doubt I will own one soon. I bought nylon wheels for my Electric Drill and is way better than by hand, but it's really only good for small project's. Beautiful Video Bro, very inspiring. I use dyes on mine for small project's, women dig the colors more than guy's.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I use a Dye from Michael's called Ultra Dye, comes in many vibrant colors. If you go to my channel there's a few samples I did, I think a Red and a Blue one. Just a Goulash Channel of things. You are welcome to look. (Survivor Mitch) is the page.
@Tom-fz6pelittle late, but yeah you're correct. while this method is mostly aesthetic when removing so much of the char, he did seal it after so it should still be fairly resistant to things you mentioned. I built an entertainment center maybe 5-6 years ago with no sealer or top coat, only using orange oil to clean it and keep it fresh. The pine is still flat with no cupping and looks as good as the day i finished the project. Also to note, for my particular use, i didn't burn to a char as i wanted the top to be flat and mostly smooth, so i only heated the wood enough to make the grain pop with color but it seemed to have been enough to keep the pine straight and flat kinda like when they heat treat or kiln dry wood so it served an extra purpose for me on top of the aesthetic appeal
But that’s not a real Technique you’re cheating the system I don’t even know what to say I mean I understand you’re trying to do it faster but it doesn’t make it better just saying
Huh? What’s not a real technique, shosugiban/yakisugi? Or the scrubbing of it afterwards? They definitely are techniques. And the scrubbing while not necessarily a technique is a style and the technique I use does speed that process up.
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Just watched this video twice. I appreciated that the demonstration avoided the use of stain.Also, the close-up comparison of appearance and relief among the samples was thoughtful. Excellent video, sir.
Thanks so much. Glad it was helpful!
Man just saved me a whole lot of looking around. Thank you buds
Absolutely share with me on FB or Insta what your making!
Five Star Demo - I finally found detailed texture info with close-ups, like you said the restorer is best for large projects - thanks.
Thanks man! Much appreciated. Sorry I didn’t respond sooner.
Thanks for this video. I was just introduced to this process this week! I make coasters/trivets in wood and love this look. I usually add a colored resin to my design but for this I'm going to keep the wood pure and let this technique be the star!!
Yep thanks very much
Yep the restorer is definitely what I wanna go with. The fence turned out good but very time intensive. Think I will do the TV wall in a shiplap like this in the wire brush.
Absolutely! A hand brush takes forever!
It’s a great technique and been around for thousands of years. I’m just now getting into it for lots of applications. Barn siding, fence posts and boards, even going to use for paneling in my home. I read that charcoal is very carcinogenic and I suspect that we are dealing with the same substance. I intend to use the protection of a good quality respirator and vinyl gloves to avoid absorbing the dust via the skin.
I noticed that the dust that is brushed away is visible and hazardous.
Absolutely! Definitely wear protection. Dust isn’t good for you. I have an accent wall in my house as well
Great info. Just what I needed.
Thanks!
Great video Brother. I love the channel.. Didn't realize I hadn't subscribed 😮. I fixed that this morning.😎
Wow! Thanks very much!
amazing job!
Thank you!
From my point of view, the 80 grit brush looks the best. Its have 2 good characteristic from the both sides.
Its smoother & retains more color than steel brush & it have more contrast than the 180 grit brush.
Great points!
Oaks w huge grains are my fav to burn
Alternatively for smaller projects a $10 nylox wheel in a drill will produce the same results for less money than the $150 restorer.
It can but this does it so much more evenly and much quicker than that method. And it can be used for way more projects than just this with its many different types of rollers. Save time = save money.
Actually a scrub brush is even more cost effective and gives better results altogether. 2-3 dollars. Also you don’t have to hold it sideways at weird angles. You’re welcome 😉.
Dig it! Nice work!!
Cheers
Thank you sir! You are an inspiration of mine
Can I use the Shou Sugi Ban technique on Cedar decking? I want to do it before I install.
Absolutely! Have fun
Great demo. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Great video! I am an experienced woodworker, but.never tried this. Now I have built 2 table tops using 2x8 SYP jointed together with biscuits and plan to use this technique
question; what is the best way to minimize the cupping? Also, what stain would you recommend for either a red or a yellowish color?.thanks!
Awesome! I would burn prior to joining as the heat tends to pull those apart. As far as cupping buy extra wood as some will cup worse than others. As always alternate the boards as far as grain. Use lower heat. It takes longer. But higher heat tends to cup more. Wet with water to cool it down as you go. Not a ton just enough to stop the burn. Make sure to wet the other side as well. As far as stain I’ve not done that yet. Just straight sealer. But I would use General finishes wood dye.
I love the crackle black look. Can you not sand after burning and just seal it? My concern is if you do not sand, it will flake.
You can! Here is another one of my videos showing how to do that. DIY Heavily Crackled Shou-Sugi-Ban Charred Cedar Planks Burnt Wood Burning
th-cam.com/video/NylnCQ5PVWw/w-d-xo.html
I just stumbled onto this video today, and it answered a lot of questions. But I have another question for you; I have been planning on building a table using 2x8 SYP and the Shou Sufi Ban system. How well do you think this will work on 2x lumber, and what about cupping? Thanks.
Good question. The narrower the wood. The less likely the cupping. Syp is pretty soft. But also looks great with this technique. Be sure to seal it more than you normally would for any other project since it’s a table top
Around the 15 minute mark. It looks like the shadow of a hummingbird checking out the fine work.
Ha! Good eye! We have a bunch that hang around our deck.
Hey , I have the restorer with both the stainless steel and nylon wheel. Did you mention what you use each for ?
I use the steel one first to really get in the groves. Then the nylon to smooth it out after. Like use a heavy grit sand paper first then a lighter grit to make it smoother.
I didn't realize you can you use the map gas, I've been messing with the propane tank... I put spar urethane on some boards, is the other stuff good for outdoors ?
Absolutely! Yellow tank burns quickly on small projects. Large projects I use a propane tank and garden torch.
I've been wanting to do this with my bar shelves which are a 2-2.5in thick x 10-12in wide live edge oak. They are hung on 4 floating shelf steel brackets per shelf. I'm concerned about the cupping you mentioned also about any potential structural issue I might cause. What are your thoughts?
2-2.5” should be fine at that width. Usually it’s with the thin pieces.
Let’s say I want to build a wall mount bathroom cabinet and do I burn it before I build it or after it’s all together? . If before will the glue work on it ? / I live in a log home and I think it will look great here . . Please respond. Great video. Oh yeah can I buy that electric wire sander at one of the big box stores so I can just pick it up instead of online B/S
I recommend prior to glue up. The wood will shrink and glue separate. Also if a board severely warps you can throw out that board and do another. The wire brush tool “restorer” used to be sold at Lowes but etc under different names. But now online. I really recommend it.
Bless you Vermont Jeff, I was just wondering the same thing, as I want to make some patio chairs with this technique and I was wondering if I should burn first or build first.
Thank you big help!
Absolutely!
building outdoor fence with cedar, any ideas for sealant?
The original natural finish is tongue oil. But you can use any spar varnish for exterior use like Minwax Helmsman’s.
Is there a way to minimize cupping on wide boards? Burn both sides maybe?
Yep that is the key! Also use quality wood bought from a reputable lumber yard. Not big box stores.
Would you burn the wood before or after drilling the holes for assembly?
In my opinion before drilling.
Hi there. I have a bookshelf I would like to do this to but it has a scratch. Do I need to smooth it out first before sanding? Thanks!
Absolutely not! It will add to the effect. Unless it is really deep. But either way it shouldn’t be an issue.
Great video! I’m using 5/4 white pine for stair treads. Any tips to prevent cupping during the burn?
Look at the end grain for wood that comes from the outer part of the tree and not from the smaller center of the tree, pre spray with water and burn quickly then spray with water again. Some will cup worse than others. So have extra on hand. And lastly burn both sides.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891
Thanks so much for this reply. The treads came out fantastic! I will keep a closer eye on end grain for the next project that will have this type of finish. Burning both sides definitely helped! This is all really good information, thanks again!!
@@PatL77 The trick is to burn the other side. Burn the side that is meant to be exposed . Brush it out and then burn the hidden side as well but monitor it as you go till the *cup* has flattened out. As he said earlier it IS about choosing the right pieces but in the end burning only one side will more often than not bring on movement in your piece
Oops. Someone already said that. Sorry
@@Wildspirit2016
Thanks, your advice is spot on
Got a question I’ve tried several sealants and oils, every time it comes out nearly black no matter how light of color the soft grain was after scrubbing. I’m curious if there’s any trick to keep it from darkening so much after sealing?
It’s the wood. Not the sealer. All sealers darken wood. If you want it lighter, prior to sealing you need to scrub it a lot to reveal a much lighter tone prior to sealing. Use some scrap pieces and experiment with different shades.
That looks cool....what is the name of the brush... and the tool u using for sanding thax
It is called “The Restorer” available online. It’s amazing!
Hi, Thanks for this video. I'm wondering about protection durability as you remove so much char?
The pores are still closed so there is still some protection from that as well as the sealer you use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Nice! and what about aspect durability during times whitout maintaining it for a burned, brussed and coated siding?
That I’m not really sure about. Sorry.
Before burn the wood....do i have to sanding it first?
Absolutely not!
Is burning like this just for aesthetics? Or does it protect the wood from the elements?
The deep dark, heavy burn (aka: alligator char) does absolutely help protect the wood. It helps close the pours of the wood to protect it from water damage, helps prevent pests/bugs from eating away at it as well as reduces its chance to burn or catch fire. When wood is burned. It’s hard to burn again do to the carbon build up. Just like charcoal. It burns. But burns slower because it’s already been heated and compressed.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 & when partial burn ? it help as well ?
@@cristobalv to an extent. But not as much as the full burn.
Can you use pressure treated lumber (pine) for this technique?
Great question! Pressure treated should be okay absolutely do NOT burn chemical treated wood. Like the green stuff from big box stores. That would be horribly toxic smoke.
Hello friend! How much durable is the pine treated with fire? To wood frame. Here in brazil we have little information about yakisugi... Thanks
It’s a very very old technique still used today. Outlasts treated or untreated wood by far.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 thank you
Is the Polycrylic good to use for outdoors?
No. Minwax & Varathane both make a good Exterior water based Spar Urethane that would have the same effect as the Polycrylic would but with uv exterior protection. amzn.to/3fNN9Od amzn.to/2SuMWYe
Can you torch pine with knots?
Yep! Just be conscious that they could shrink and pop out
What’s the spray bottle used for?
Wetting the wood to help keep it cool and not warp.
Great video but wish you wouldn't have speed thru the burning process and especially the removal process with the machine.
Sorry, unfortunately trying to keep people’s attention is getting harder and harder. So I have to speed up some parts. Otherwise no one continues to watch and I get lost in the algorithm.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I understand, Thanks!
I want a Restorer but they are spendy and the brushes
I hear yah! Granted I was sent mine for free to test out. But I was already wanting one. And I can honestly say that for the $150 or so your gonna spend on it and at least one brush this thing is worth it’s weight in gold! It saves so much time. Last year I skinned a fireplace in ShouSugiBan and made a big mantle to match. I scrubbed each board all by hand. I went through multiple brushes. And spent two full days scrubbing the wood. If I had this tool those two days would have been cut down to half a day at least if not more. That job alone would have paid for the tool. If I had thought about it then I would have just added the price of the tool into the job & then passed on the savings in labor onto the customer. And if your doing a wall or siding or a fence just for yourself it works the same way! Not to mention it works as a paint scraper, sander, polisher and more. I use it a few times a week in my shop professionally.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I agree! No doubt I will own one soon. I bought nylon wheels for my Electric Drill and is way better than by hand, but it's really only good for small project's. Beautiful Video Bro, very inspiring. I use dyes on mine for small project's, women dig the colors more than guy's.
If you have any tips on that I’d love to hear them. I’ve never dyed any. What types of dyes are used?
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I use a Dye from Michael's called Ultra Dye, comes in many vibrant colors. If you go to my channel there's a few samples I did, I think a Red and a Blue one. Just a Goulash Channel of things. You are welcome to look.
(Survivor Mitch) is the page.
I absolutely will! Thanks
I thought you were supposed to use tongue oil?!
Yes the original use is tongue oil for this technique. But I like the water based poly because it doesn’t change the color and yellow it.
@Tom-fz6pelittle late, but yeah you're correct. while this method is mostly aesthetic when removing so much of the char, he did seal it after so it should still be fairly resistant to things you mentioned.
I built an entertainment center maybe 5-6 years ago with no sealer or top coat, only using orange oil to clean it and keep it fresh. The pine is still flat with no cupping and looks as good as the day i finished the project.
Also to note, for my particular use, i didn't burn to a char as i wanted the top to be flat and mostly smooth, so i only heated the wood enough to make the grain pop with color but it seemed to have been enough to keep the pine straight and flat kinda like when they heat treat or kiln dry wood so it served an extra purpose for me on top of the aesthetic appeal
th-cam.com/video/IVnbdqs11ZA/w-d-xo.html
Blah
But that’s not a real Technique you’re cheating the system I don’t even know what to say I mean I understand you’re trying to do it faster but it doesn’t make it better just saying
Huh? What’s not a real technique, shosugiban/yakisugi? Or the scrubbing of it afterwards? They definitely are techniques. And the scrubbing while not necessarily a technique is a style and the technique I use does speed that process up.
What do you mean "a professional tool builder" ?
You bought your pieces of wood from Snap-On or Milwaukee mf?
“Professional Builders Supply”. It’s a local building supply company that sells building supplies. Hopefully you can understand. Thanks