You actually kind of did this the opposite. I agree on sealant under the pipe boot but you should never seal the bottom only in the off chance that your gasket fails. If the gasket fails, water will get trapped behind your caulking. You should have done the top and the sides. Also, there should be a nice upside down horseshoe bead of sealant between the shingles and the flange itself after the boot is installed. That will protect against any ice damming or water backing up around the pipe boot itself
I just finished watching the whole vid.... a nail at the bottom of flashing? with a little of flashing, like that will last season after season? Probably not what the manufacturer recommends defeats the purpose of water running off by leaving a vulnerable exposed point... I believe manufacturers instructions also have temperature for installing shingles.. better chance of glue sealing before water, ice, etc get under and in...I was about to reproofing mine in dead winter.. Thanks for the Vid tho... Keep workin
Why would u put a bead of caulk on bottom Side toward the guttering and not on top. If you chance it does seep in on top you are simply trapping the water with no way to escape except thru the attic hole. The top under side should be caulked and the bottom Underside not caulked.
Ok so why the giant gap when you could have made it one shingle with the headlap covering the top of metal could have cut it around the boot and still had it open faced just like that this way you would have it completely covered
Its not about water tight its about the looks. He should of ran a full shingle on the first one then you don't see that nasty metal @deedsofdecapitation7477
I just would have rounded the row to make the shingles curve around that boot a little better. Kinda trim it out in a way. I think it looks cleaner than having squared off edges. Also I’m surprised you used silver and not black metal to blend in with the black shingles
No tar, ice and water shield the top and sides, it will cover nail holes too with none exposed. Not the end of the world if there is cases where there are nails exposed on the bottom of the boot just caulk the head. You can put 1-3 on the bottom of the boot, you just don’t want those nails directly under the boots natural water trail. So two nails placed on the far edges and one nail in the middle is okay. I don’t think this will leak but definitely would do it a little different i really don’t like the tar on the bottom or the gap left in the top.
How far should the PVC protrude from the roof? Do they make a screen for keeping leaves etc out of it? And I guess a 2" hole saw will work for a 1 1/2" pipe? -- many thanks for answers. I need to do one for a spare bath that is on other end of house.
A small gap is needed on the side of that vent which leaves space for water to travel down the side. love tar on your fingers for the rest of the day lol
The roofer 30 years ago put mine in with 2 (upper) nails and cut a semicircle in the top center shingle. That’s all. Lasted 30 years, until the metal rusted a hole and started leaking.
So if water follows the top of a shingle in a wind driven rain and the sides and bottom are caulked how's the watter escape inside the house how about 10/15 years from now and the back of the boot splits and the sides and bottom are caulked where does the water go 🤔 in the house
I install ice and water around pipe prior to boot, also run silicone on back and down sides, never on the bottom. Nails go on the very top and across the bottom up and away from the edge of the flange.
Never ever put nails on the bottom. It goes against manufacturers instructions as well as the laws of physics aka no exposed nails. This is the biggest cause of leaks that I have found. It’s is insane how many roofers can’t just refrain from putting nails in the bottom.
That second course should wrap that stack as well as the last....if you roof it right....you dont need any additional sealent period except for exposed fasteners.
@david lysohirka Where do you get that from? There should be 4 exposed nails on a roof..... on the end of ridge and that’s it. If you do a roof correctly you should have as little as possible. I live in Oregon and there is never an issue without having face nails. Face nails cause leaks.
What exposed fasteners do you think im speaking off? More than 4 on most roofs and i never gave a number....i face nail flashings around penetrations if bottom of flange is exposed....regardless if its a rubber 5/1, or a steel b-vent, or gooseneck....then seal final ridge cap. Maybe some wall flashing....list goes on.....but always seal any exposed fasteners on any roof regardless of the reason for.
@@chrisparmenter9582 they actually rust if you chalk it water cant get to it there for cant rust till chalk fails AKA 10 15 years if you use the good stuff and another 5 for nail to rust by then boots bad and then gets redone the same way
Sorry, but this is wrong. You never put a bead of tar at the bottom of anything. You can do it at the top, but never the bottom. ALWAYS leave the bottom open incase water does manage to get in. That way it has a place to drain. By doing a bead at the bottom if water does get in you'll get water trapped and cause rot. Especially the way he did it as a U shape. Basically made a cup for water to get trapped in. The U should have been upside down. Same goes for just about anything else requiring any type of caulking. Obviously this guy was taught wrong or self taught. Should not be making instructional videos if you dont know what you're doing. How many people have watched this and now gonna end up with dry rot issues or a leaking roof.
if water gets in there its a leak so it doesnt matter. i caulk the bottom to prevent ice dams from backing up under flashing. i warranty my work for 20 years and will fix any issue for free
Without the bottom caulked the water has somewhere to escape besides pudling up causing damage and potentially going in the house. As for ice damns that doesn't make much sense. If you're using Henry's to prevent an ice damn then you're not preventing anything. A true roofer would use atleast a 3ftx3ft piece of Grace ice and water shield around every vent b4 puting on his underlayment. I dont mean to come off as ass, but if you're offering a 20 year warranty you're gonna bankrupt yourself in a few years from now when every job you've done starts having major problems
I love when roofers make videos and lead viewers to believe what their doing is right and what others are doing wrong and in actuality their all doing wrong... Whoever is watching this video to try and learn don't listen to this dude because he's doing it absolutely wrong.. the object is to do it the way the manufacturer recommends to do it.. if you do it the way he is doing it you will get know warranty from the shingle company... When you do a pipe boot you never but the shingle up to the pipe boot you cut a single so it's still one piece even if theirs a small space between the top and the cut.. I'll make a video and show you how it's really suppose to be done, start tuned.
Pro tip, install 2 boots, stack them one ontop of the other right when you do the job, the second top boot acts as a sacrificial, does its job for years without needing the protection of the second underneath boot, but eventually when it breaks down or cracks from UV exposure the second boot is still in perfect shape below. They only cost $15 each so its cheap piece of mind with most houses only needing 2-3 vent pipes. Do not install the bead of caulk underneath the boot at the bottom as alot of comments here mention though, only the top and sides, both underside and overside
When you run your first ice and water shield do you also go over the ice and water shield with your synthetic or do just over lap the synthetic 4 inches and continue on?
Step 1, exact same but cut both sides of the shingle that intersects the pipe 6" away from the next seams leaving the felt revealed on both sides. Do everything the same as in this video installing the boot, but put a second layer of shingle over the silver, letting that extra 6 " create a transition between seams. won't be perfect, but silver is gone. and roof is safe
Wrong to much gap n never kaul bottom. Nail on vent metal. Less than 6 inches on last shingle he did caulk the boot but not the vent wich has more chance of licking so on an on
Something else wrong with this video. Looks like he's putting a whole new roof on during the winter. Always a bad idea to put a new asphalt roof on when its cold out. Asphalt shingles have a bead of tar along the bottom that needs the sun to heat it up and seal to the shingle below it. Shingling in the winter you're taking a huge chance of getting high winds b4 that tar has a chance to heat up and glue itself down. Nails hardly do anything. That tar is the main thing keeping your shingles down. Without it glued down properly, 1 good windy day you can loose half of your expensive new roof. ALWAYS a better idea to do some sort of patch in the cold season if you have a leak. Then wait until it heats up to atleast the 60°s-70°s b4 doing a new roof. If you live in an area where it never gets warm than you should hire a roofer who's licensed to use a torch.
You actually kind of did this the opposite. I agree on sealant under the pipe boot but you should never seal the bottom only in the off chance that your gasket fails. If the gasket fails, water will get trapped behind your caulking. You should have done the top and the sides.
Also, there should be a nice upside down horseshoe bead of sealant between the shingles and the flange itself after the boot is installed. That will protect against any ice damming or water backing up around the pipe boot itself
Never caulk bottom of flashing in case water gets in it has a way out.
im not a tradesman but my common sense is telling me that.....i cant believe a trade guy is doing that....lol
The U should be an n.... that's what we donor solar flashings...best practices
I just finished watching the whole vid.... a nail at the bottom of flashing? with a little of flashing, like that will last season after season? Probably not what the manufacturer recommends defeats the purpose of water running off by leaving a vulnerable exposed point...
I believe manufacturers instructions also have temperature for installing shingles.. better chance of glue sealing before water, ice, etc get under and in...I was about to reproofing mine in dead winter.. Thanks for the Vid tho... Keep workin
Water should never get in anyways if you do it right it should never have a chance
Driving rain areas actually have this as a requirement.
Bro, you left a proud nail at 4:30. But I learned what I needed from your informative video.
Glad I could help
Never caulk the bottom!
You could just put a blob on each corner and leave a gap for drainage in the middle.
I always do blobs at the bottom that allow for drainage. No continuous line as to not create a dam
My wife usually likes to use black caulk in her bottom.
@@mulletsince9212 helps with drainage
Why would u put a bead of caulk on bottom
Side toward the guttering and not on top. If you chance it does seep in on top you are simply trapping the water with no way to escape except thru the attic hole. The top under side should be caulked and the bottom
Underside not caulked.
thats what I was thinking
Completely backwards - caulk the top, leave the bottom open! Just like a window install.
Yep!
I really like how you do the pipe boot
Thanks!
What a jack leg so easy to fit shingles neatly around boot He didn't even try to fit the shingles around the boot
Ok so why the giant gap when you could have made it one shingle with the headlap covering the top of metal could have cut it around the boot and still had it open faced just like that this way you would have it completely covered
Because it doesn't matter either way, that little piece of top shingle headlap isn't going to provide any watertight barrier.
Its not about water tight its about the looks. He should of ran a full shingle on the first one then you don't see that nasty metal @deedsofdecapitation7477
I just would have rounded the row to make the shingles curve around that boot a little better. Kinda trim it out in a way. I think it looks cleaner than having squared off edges. Also I’m surprised you used silver and not black metal to blend in with the black shingles
No tar, ice and water shield the top and sides, it will cover nail holes too with none exposed. Not the end of the world if there is cases where there are nails exposed on the bottom of the boot just caulk the head. You can put 1-3 on the bottom of the boot, you just don’t want those nails directly under the boots natural water trail. So two nails placed on the far edges and one nail in the middle is okay. I don’t think this will leak but definitely would do it a little different i really don’t like the tar on the bottom or the gap left in the top.
That sealant is a big no if water gets in it will build up under that until it flows into the attic
Its crazy how all these comments r negative but none of these dudes r pros or have tbere own company 😅😅 great job bro love ur stuff
Thanks! Ther are alot of experts watching my HOW TO videos lol
How far should the PVC protrude from the roof? Do they make a screen for keeping leaves etc out of it? And I guess a 2" hole saw will work for a 1 1/2" pipe? -- many thanks for answers. I need to do one for a spare bath that is on other end of house.
code for pipe varies and I am not positive because that is a plumbing code. (I should know) and the answer to the other questions is yes
Sheers produce a cleaner cut when they are cold but a chance to Crack hook blads for warm shingles only
Snips or shears work just fine!
A small gap is needed on the side of that vent which leaves space for water to travel down the side. love tar on your fingers for the rest of the day lol
The roofer 30 years ago put mine in with 2 (upper) nails and cut a semicircle in the top center shingle. That’s all. Lasted 30 years, until the metal rusted a hole and started leaking.
Squirrels have some sharp teeth and claws . Majority of the ones I’ve installed were plastic local yard didn’t carry metal .
we always use metal if we can
spay paint the metal showing to match the roof color
Thanks for teaching me this! I’d love to email you the pictures!
no problem!
In presidential shingles you can use a starter to cover the metal. Specially if is charcoal
Hook blade?
stainless grommeted screw for the bottom of the pipe boot looks nicer than mud.
So if water follows the top of a shingle in a wind driven rain and the sides and bottom are caulked how's the watter escape inside the house how about 10/15 years from now and the back of the boot splits and the sides and bottom are caulked where does the water go 🤔 in the house
I install ice and water around pipe prior to boot, also run silicone on back and down sides, never on the bottom. Nails go on the very top and across the bottom up and away from the edge of the flange.
Never ever put nails on the bottom. It goes against manufacturers instructions as well as the laws of physics aka no exposed nails. This is the biggest cause of leaks that I have found. It’s is insane how many roofers can’t just refrain from putting nails in the bottom.
Thank you for all info
Is this pipe suppose to be left like that nothing over the opening?
That second course should wrap that stack as well as the last....if you roof it right....you dont need any additional sealent period except for exposed fasteners.
Don’t even need any exposed fasteners.
@@chrisparmenter9582 then your not doing it right!
@david lysohirka
Where do you get that from? There should be 4 exposed nails on a roof..... on the end of ridge and that’s it. If you do a roof correctly you should have as little as possible. I live in Oregon and there is never an issue without having face nails. Face nails cause leaks.
What exposed fasteners do you think im speaking off? More than 4 on most roofs and i never gave a number....i face nail flashings around penetrations if bottom of flange is exposed....regardless if its a rubber 5/1, or a steel b-vent, or gooseneck....then seal final ridge cap. Maybe some wall flashing....list goes on.....but always seal any exposed fasteners on any roof regardless of the reason for.
@@chrisparmenter9582 they actually rust if you chalk it water cant get to it there for cant rust till chalk fails AKA 10 15 years if you use the good stuff and another 5 for nail to rust by then boots bad and then gets redone the same way
Sorry, but this is wrong. You never put a bead of tar at the bottom of anything. You can do it at the top, but never the bottom. ALWAYS leave the bottom open incase water does manage to get in. That way it has a place to drain. By doing a bead at the bottom if water does get in you'll get water trapped and cause rot. Especially the way he did it as a U shape. Basically made a cup for water to get trapped in. The U should have been upside down. Same goes for just about anything else requiring any type of caulking.
Obviously this guy was taught wrong or self taught. Should not be making instructional videos if you dont know what you're doing. How many people have watched this and now gonna end up with dry rot issues or a leaking roof.
if water gets in there its a leak so it doesnt matter. i caulk the bottom to prevent ice dams from backing up under flashing. i warranty my work for 20 years and will fix any issue for free
Without the bottom caulked the water has somewhere to escape besides pudling up causing damage and potentially going in the house. As for ice damns that doesn't make much sense. If you're using Henry's to prevent an ice damn then you're not preventing anything. A true roofer would use atleast a 3ftx3ft piece of Grace ice and water shield around every vent b4 puting on his underlayment. I dont mean to come off as ass, but if you're offering a 20 year warranty you're gonna bankrupt yourself in a few years from now when every job you've done starts having major problems
I don’t like ANY nails exposed. 🤦♂️
Perfect video about this thanks
Thanks
You have 1 ply of roofing around that stack....last i checked shingles are still a 2ply system.
I love when roofers make videos and lead viewers to believe what their doing is right and what others are doing wrong and in actuality their all doing wrong... Whoever is watching this video to try and learn don't listen to this dude because he's doing it absolutely wrong.. the object is to do it the way the manufacturer recommends to do it.. if you do it the way he is doing it you will get know warranty from the shingle company... When you do a pipe boot you never but the shingle up to the pipe boot you cut a single so it's still one piece even if theirs a small space between the top and the cut.. I'll make a video and show you how it's really suppose to be done, start tuned.
Can't wait for your video!
@@Lifes_Apprentice you have no defense to your shoddy work. Stop making videos
Your comment is opportunistic and not helpful.
1 year later, and I can't find your video.
A lack of a video on proper install does not disqualify an opinion on a video of a crappy install.
@ 4:48 shouldnt you cut that so you have a 1/4 - 1/2 inch gap at the top? and also put sealant underneith it?
Thank you! Perfect explanation!
What kind of gun do u use
Thank You!
You're welcome!
Could always paint the metal black if wanted.
Is your area a 4 or 5 nail?
gracias thank you 😊 so much 💓
I wouldn’t make it 2 piece the first shingle. But if u say that’s the right way, have at it
Will the rubber break down over time then a new boot is needed?
Yes. Eventually it will. they make rubber replacements that you can just slide over the pipe without messing with shingles if it cracks or dryrots
Pro tip, install 2 boots, stack them one ontop of the other right when you do the job, the second top boot acts as a sacrificial, does its job for years without needing the protection of the second underneath boot, but eventually when it breaks down or cracks from UV exposure the second boot is still in perfect shape below. They only cost $15 each so its cheap piece of mind with most houses only needing 2-3 vent pipes.
Do not install the bead of caulk underneath the boot at the bottom as alot of comments here mention though, only the top and sides, both underside and overside
When you run your first ice and water shield do you also go over the ice and water shield with your synthetic or do just over lap the synthetic 4 inches and continue on?
in some cases we do cover the ice and water with synthetic because the ice and water can be super slippery sometimes!
So is it a must. Or can I skip it.
@@jackbrooks8365 ice and water is a must in alot of areas but covering it with tarpaper is not neccesary
Thank you.
I always wonder why roofers cut shingles on top of installed shingles, seems like a bad idea.
Hook blade?
hook blade, doesnt barely scratch the shingle below
great video thanks !
All i ever see in the store is dozens of metal boots and vents crushed to death.
yeah i see it too. better than cracked plasic tho
I would definitely hire you if you were in columbus ohio!!
Wow. Obviously not a roofer.
Step 1, exact same but cut both sides of the shingle that intersects the pipe 6" away from the next seams leaving the felt revealed on both sides. Do everything the same as in this video installing the boot, but put a second layer of shingle over the silver, letting that extra 6 " create a transition between seams. won't be perfect, but silver is gone. and roof is safe
Why not just cut around it twice like real roofers ?
Wrong to much gap n never kaul bottom. Nail on vent metal. Less than 6 inches on last shingle he did caulk the boot but not the vent wich has more chance of licking so on an on
Add zip flashing tape before shingles
that is definitely an option
Sorry, but there are more don'ts then do's in this video, you should remove the video for giving people bad advise.
I just don’t like the face nailing.
FAIL. NEVER CAULK BOTTOMS.
It looks like the slope is flat to install shingles, should apply rolled roofing material!
Terrible install
yea put caulking on bottom so any moisture can build up...straight abortion video..
Something else wrong with this video. Looks like he's putting a whole new roof on during the winter. Always a bad idea to put a new asphalt roof on when its cold out. Asphalt shingles have a bead of tar along the bottom that needs the sun to heat it up and seal to the shingle below it. Shingling in the winter you're taking a huge chance of getting high winds b4 that tar has a chance to heat up and glue itself down. Nails hardly do anything. That tar is the main thing keeping your shingles down. Without it glued down properly, 1 good windy day you can loose half of your expensive new roof. ALWAYS a better idea to do some sort of patch in the cold season if you have a leak. Then wait until it heats up to atleast the 60°s-70°s b4 doing a new roof. If you live in an area where it never gets warm than you should hire a roofer who's licensed to use a torch.
i warranty my work for 20 years and almost never have problems. i had to do this for a failed inspection so a house could close.