Very helpful. I'm adding two (2) of these vents in my garage to vent out the heat. It's 100°F in SoCal today but my garage feels a lot hotter than that.
Roof tar on the bottom edge of the vent doesn’t allow any water to escape on the top of the shingle at its bottom. This will pool water eventually allowing water to accumulate causing damage. The water must flow
@@Lifes_Apprentice typically turtle vents are higher on the roof so if an ice dam forms that high up, you’ve got bigger issues at work. Blowing snow has a greater chance of entering through the vent openings than under it. If you create something that works structurally instead of using silicon it’ll last longer, work better and it’s cheaper. Just sayin
Like the way you installed the vent my friend. one issue tho, the last shingle you nailed has a nail right under it on the right and it’s where the keyway is going to be
Why is the tar/sealant on the bottom of the vent? I would think at the top, so water follows path of least resistance/gravity down around the hole. If it gets under the vent from the top it'll pool won't it and get into the vent hole and potentially into the roof??
@@Lifes_Apprentice Thanks for the clarification on that. I assumed the lower shingles would cover for that, but didn't realize you might have to worry about ice etc. Appreciate it!
How is he able to put a nail in the bottom of the vent face? If that nail goes all the way through the underlayment and into the sheathing, couldn't water run through the hole the nail made and violate the sheathing?
I’m a DIY homeowner other videos have said not to completely caulk the bottom edge as you are trapping water from draining down to the shingle below creating a potential leak?
Excellent video! Can I ask how I would do this on one of those resin sheds? Has the plastic roof? Im thinking just cut a hole and sit the vent on top of the plastic shingle but there is nothing to overlap the sides of the vent ?
I think it looks good except for the nail placement on the vent I get what you meant about the water traveling down the rib but you nailed it on the sides and the nails aren’t even all the way down water is going to hit those nails and that’s a direct link
Appreciate you sharing this video. It was extremely helpful. We had a bad windy rain storm here in Pittsburgh yesterday and apparently it knocked off my roof louver vent a new one put on where the old one went. Are they costly?
Absolute pro. Idiots that did my roof didn't replace my caps so I'm going to have find a way to do that before removing the old one. My bathroom vents are like 7", any recommendation for caps? Hard to find anything and have any confidence it'll work.
@@Lifes_Apprentice Well, my furnace vent is leaking somewhere. It's rusted and falling apart so not exactly a shocker, and it was probably re-installed incorrectly. The leak was hidden because the top of my furnace is concealed with sheet rock, I just happened to hear a drip while I was near. The vent installed now is a huge one, not sure why it's so big, but do you have a go to one that you could recommend, for an 8" round furnace duct? Preferably with a backdraft damper and screen. Thanks :/
@@swiss6253 I don't have a brand that I would reccomend. You will have to shop around and see what you can find in your area. I would reccomend you use Galvanized or stainless steel though
@@Lifes_Apprentice Alright thank you. Was going to buy the "Active Ventilation" brand, but those are aluminum. I'm also reading something about a double stack with an intake so should probably make sure it's not one of those. Appreciate it.
Last shingle you notched fell right onto a nail in the course below. Cut that back or better yet don't nail that lower shingle until you know exactly where the one above it will land. Get you some NP1 instead of "tar" and go around the back and sides of that vent on the bottom of it
I’m not an experienced roofer but I would not cut shingles on top of existing new roof. I think it would be easy to damage the roof underneath. Also I would’ve notched the upper shingle around the vent. This would keep any seam away from the flashing. I was told to leave a gap between the roofing and the vent to allow water to stream down without going under the shingle. This video depicts the roofing going right up against the vent. I don’t put any nails in the vent flashing under a shingle. Only the two nails on the exposed lower part. The flashing is held down by the next course of roofing which is nailed on the nailing strip but not through the flashing. No holes no leak. Too many nails. That vent isn’t going anywhere.
@@Lifes_Apprentice sorry man Don’t mean to be negative but these are my observations. Only read one negative comment You’re doing way more than me to help others. Roofing is fascinating to me that’s why I’ve avoided it most of my 40 years of being in the trades. I have to admit I learn a lot that I spent decades not knowing.
@@raycooper9116 I am not the "best"... I do not claim to be... I just help a few people do their own shit like old times....Learn a trade and you will be set for life if you want.....
You should never caulk on the down side as water has no way out if it gets in. Also you should have one more course under the vent. Been roofing for 30 years never had a leak.
Does the vent have to be completely centered over the hole? I had one of these installed recently and if I lol up from the attic I see some of the metal .. maybe an inch hanging over the hole
OK, this is me being picky, but you seemed to have lined up the tabs between shingle courses, rather than overlapping the joints of the tabs --just aesthetics.
Never ever ever caulk the bottom! You did it absolutely wrong bud. Water needs a way out. All you did was potentially trap water. AND you did not run the shingles properly over top of it😂😂
It's all good but the nails. I had been up on the roof and saw nails poping up becuase of hot and cold weather. I think the roof nails with naoprene shouldbe used. This will save the homeowners headache with roof leak when contractors have left. It's only few dollars extra cost for the nails.
@@Brandon-no3vc Roof nails are not the same as regular nails. Some cheap contractors would rather save a few dollars and left homeowners with problems. I've learned my lesson and always get two quotes or more from contractors on how they do things and what materials. Some were pissy and that was good to ward off cowboys.
@@Brandon-no3vc Grip-Rite® Roofing Nails with Neoprene Washer. The additional neoprene washer creates a seal against water. I bought these for around $6 a box to replace many pop-up rusty nails around my chimney rain guard and some loose nails around the vent caps on the roof. Check at HP or Lowes. Look for the aluminum type and don't worry about broken rust nails anymore.
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful. I'm adding two (2) of these vents in my garage to vent out the heat. It's 100°F in SoCal today but my garage feels a lot hotter than that.
They will cool it to 100
Very helpful! I love your videos they help me improve my roofing knowledge
Great to hear!
Roof tar on the bottom edge of the vent doesn’t allow any water to escape on the top of the shingle at its bottom. This will pool water eventually allowing water to accumulate causing damage. The water must flow
Water will not get in there if done right. This is to prevent blowing snow and ice dams
@@Lifes_Apprentice typically turtle vents are higher on the roof so if an ice dam forms that high up, you’ve got bigger issues at work. Blowing snow has a greater chance of entering through the vent openings than under it. If you create something that works structurally instead of using silicon it’ll last longer, work better and it’s cheaper. Just sayin
Like the way you installed the vent my friend. one issue tho, the last shingle you nailed has a nail right under it on the right and it’s where the keyway is going to be
Why is the tar/sealant on the bottom of the vent? I would think at the top, so water follows path of least resistance/gravity down around the hole. If it gets under the vent from the top it'll pool won't it and get into the vent hole and potentially into the roof??
i do in case there is an ice dam and to keep bees out
@@Lifes_Apprentice Thanks for the clarification on that. I assumed the lower shingles would cover for that, but didn't realize you might have to worry about ice etc. Appreciate it!
I would be more worried about damage from water moisture, than possibly bees. How would the bees get underneath?
How is he able to put a nail in the bottom of the vent face? If that nail goes all the way through the underlayment and into the sheathing, couldn't water run through the hole the nail made and violate the sheathing?
I’m a DIY homeowner other videos have said not to completely caulk the bottom edge as you are trapping water from draining down to the shingle below creating a potential leak?
Excellent video! Can I ask how I would do this on one of those resin sheds? Has the plastic roof? Im thinking just cut a hole and sit the vent on top of the plastic shingle but there is nothing to overlap the sides of the vent ?
There is no way to do it properly on a shed like that but you can caulk the crap out of it
I think it looks good except for the nail placement on the vent I get what you meant about the water traveling down the rib but you nailed it on the sides and the nails aren’t even all the way down water is going to hit those nails and that’s a direct link
I agree
The nails above the shingle line on the side of the vent flashing are unnecessary. Every nail hole is a potential leak 4:46
Appreciate you sharing this video. It was extremely helpful. We had a bad windy rain storm here in Pittsburgh yesterday and apparently it knocked off my roof louver vent a new one put on where the old one went. Are they costly?
Man I can’t remember how many roof vents I’ve installed and never tared them in place . Good extra protection never hurts .
some people disagree with the tar but its protection from ice dams
Life's Apprentice Can never have to much of anything to keep water out .
@@Lifes_Apprentice is it a rubberized tar you use?
Great tutorial thanks
Just got my vents replaced on my roof and he put on of these same vents on my dryer vent on the roof, are these used for roof dryer vents?
It depends on the situation but there should be a different vent on the dryer hose
Absolute pro.
Idiots that did my roof didn't replace my caps so I'm going to have find a way to do that before removing the old one.
My bathroom vents are like 7", any recommendation for caps? Hard to find anything and have any confidence it'll work.
you should be able to find a 7" vent... I shop at menards and lowes but most big box stores should have something for you
@@Lifes_Apprentice Alright thanks, I'm probably over thinking it. I don't live that close to any big store so probably ordering online.
@@Lifes_Apprentice Well, my furnace vent is leaking somewhere. It's rusted and falling apart so not exactly a shocker, and it was probably re-installed incorrectly. The leak was hidden because the top of my furnace is concealed with sheet rock, I just happened to hear a drip while I was near. The vent installed now is a huge one, not sure why it's so big, but do you have a go to one that you could recommend, for an 8" round furnace duct? Preferably with a backdraft damper and screen. Thanks :/
@@swiss6253 I don't have a brand that I would reccomend. You will have to shop around and see what you can find in your area. I would reccomend you use Galvanized or stainless steel though
@@Lifes_Apprentice Alright thank you. Was going to buy the "Active Ventilation" brand, but those are aluminum. I'm also reading something about a double stack with an intake so should probably make sure it's not one of those. Appreciate it.
Last shingle you notched fell right onto a nail in the course below. Cut that back or better yet don't nail that lower shingle until you know exactly where the one above it will land. Get you some NP1 instead of "tar" and go around the back and sides of that vent on the bottom of it
I’m not an experienced roofer but I would not cut shingles on top of existing new roof. I think it would be easy to damage the roof underneath.
Also I would’ve notched the upper shingle around the vent. This would keep any seam away from the flashing. I was told to leave a gap between the roofing and the vent to allow water to stream down without going under the shingle. This video depicts the roofing going right up against the vent.
I don’t put any nails in the vent flashing under a shingle. Only the two nails on the exposed lower part. The flashing is held down by the next course of roofing which is nailed on the nailing strip but not through the flashing. No holes no leak. Too many nails. That vent isn’t going anywhere.
You must have read all the negative comments and put them in a group...Very nice!
@@Lifes_Apprentice sorry man
Don’t mean to be negative but these are my observations. Only read one negative comment
You’re doing way more than me to help others.
Roofing is fascinating to me that’s why I’ve avoided it most of my 40 years of being in the trades. I have to admit I learn a lot that I spent decades not knowing.
@@Lifes_Apprentice
You’ve heard the joke about the guy’s first day as a roofer. The boss says if you fall you’re fired halfway down!
@@raycooper9116 We are friends now! I have insurace now but back "then" i was all cash!
@@raycooper9116 I am not the "best"... I do not claim to be... I just help a few people do their own shit like old times....Learn a trade and you will be set for life if you want.....
I think the vent is facing the wrong direction. Also nails in the edge of the flange area could cause links from my understanding.
it is not upside down and the nails are right where they are supposed to be. the exposed nails are not necessary but i would highly recommend it
Forgot to do the 45-degree notches on the tops of the shingles over the vent metal.
I was going to say the same thing.
You should never caulk on the down side as water has no way out if it gets in. Also you should have one more course under the vent. Been roofing for 30 years never had a leak.
nice video, do you think its even better to lay an ice shield under the shingle?
Thanks
Thanks. You can use ice and water for sure
@@Lifes_Apprentice what about ice and water plus caulking as well?
Great job thank you
@2:55 wouldnt cutting it like that make it too tight doeant the shingle and the steel vent expand and contract?
It will expand and contract a total of 1/32nd of an inch
@@Lifes_Apprentice both the shingle and the steel vent? so you just make them tight?
Does the vent have to be completely centered over the hole? I had one of these installed recently and if I lol up from the attic I see some of the metal .. maybe an inch hanging over the hole
as long as it is close it is alright
Should have ran the second course through top of vent for two plys.
you are right.... there could be a seam at the vent...
@@Lifes_Apprentice 👍
I wish when you post a video that you would name the parts used and where to get the part. Maybe you get bonus points from MFG.
Brilliant
Thanks!
I've never seen anything done so wrong and you didn't lop the ears
good one
Thanks
PRO!!
OK, this is me being picky, but you seemed to have lined up the tabs between shingle courses, rather than overlapping the joints of the tabs --just aesthetics.
gracias
wow
Better!
Never ever ever caulk the bottom! You did it absolutely wrong bud. Water needs a way out. All you did was potentially trap water. AND you did not run the shingles properly over top of it😂😂
It's all good but the nails. I had been up on the roof and saw nails poping up becuase of hot and cold weather. I think the roof nails with naoprene shouldbe used. This will save the homeowners headache with roof leak when contractors have left. It's only few dollars extra cost for the nails.
Why would nails pop up
@@Brandon-no3vc Roof nails are not the same as regular nails. Some cheap contractors would rather save a few dollars and left homeowners with problems. I've learned my lesson and always get two quotes or more from contractors on how they do things and what materials. Some were pissy and that was good to ward off cowboys.
@@dean3583 where would you use those nails and what kind of nails
@@Brandon-no3vc Grip-Rite® Roofing Nails with Neoprene Washer. The additional neoprene washer creates a seal against water. I bought these for around $6 a box to replace many pop-up rusty nails around my chimney rain guard and some loose nails around the vent caps on the roof. Check at HP or Lowes. Look for the aluminum type and don't worry about broken rust nails anymore.
@@dean3583 you would need a washer underneath the vent as well
Its bin 9 months did it blow off or leak lmfao do not put a vent in like this this guy ant no roofer
it doesnt leak and it hasnt blown off. lol thanks for your opinion. i will watch your video about vent installation but couldnt find it