Im just pulling engine apart to start with, when i rebuild engine i will be adding alot of detail, thanks for watching , let me know if there is anything info you need
Great to have you back on this, I've split the block and done a bit of degreesing but stuck with a couple of sheared bolts so it's time to learn how to mig weld to see if I can remove them. Looking forward to your next episode and also how you might go about cleaning the parts.
Thanks, iv had a bit of time off , im also restoring my discovery , i have a youtube channel for that project too, iv been lucky with this engine so far all my bolts have come out, iv got a small ultra sonic cleaner that iv not used yet so im excited to try it, i will do before and after photos of engine paint work
Im on with con rods , and im inspecting shells, do you have your shell part numbers, there stamped on shells, i have type a and b for rod end and cap end, but on my right hand rod i have x2 type b shells, which i think is wrong
@@Tattytyres I haven't removed the bearing shells to even take a look at them, they where just tagged and bagged to keep all the components together. I'm not sure even how to remove them carefully without damaging, hence your video's could be better timed for me. I have at RTP (2007 & 2005 model) and not a GS but the part numbers are the same, Looking at the parts diagram I would expect botsides to have a type A and type B. From the parts micro Fiche. Bearing shell, cover side, red 2 11247700603 Bearing shell, rod side, blue 2 11247700604 Bearing shell, cover side, red +0,25 2 11247700605 Bearing shell, rod side, blue +0,25 2 11247700606 My little workshop (read wooden shed) is like a sauna at the moment, I'll see if I can look in the morning.
The part number for the left and right piston kit is different the part numbers listed for the AB left piston kit is 1125770359. And AB right piston kit is 1125770360. The weight of both pistons are same 0.598kg so im guessing the pins are same, when i get chance i with measure the pins for you
The knock sensor should read 5 ohm, at least that how it was on bombardier 3 cyl jetskie engines. the surface of the sensor should be clean and tightened to a torque. Like i said, the piston lays on it's side. many people do more than 250.000km with these engine, i know someone with a 1200GS that has 280.000km and just replaced his drive shaft. some Spaniard was aiming for 500.000km, but that guy was BMW dealer. is there liquid sealant on the bottom of the cyl vs the crankcase? because no seal to buy there.
@@Tattytyres It's not cheap, but did you hear off Ceracote? to coat the cylinders, heads en covers. I discovered on mine, that the "Artic silver" can be wiped off the wheels, just by cleaning them. it's very visible on the 3 spoke wheels i have. there is a ring inside the rims on both sides, easy to wash area where the paint is literally washed off. Of coarse i also have the same corrosion on the same spots as you on the cyls, just not that much albeit being older.
Very usefully stuff, I might take my engine apart for inspection and overhaul so this is very helpful
Im just pulling engine apart to start with, when i rebuild engine i will be adding alot of detail, thanks for watching , let me know if there is anything info you need
Great to have you back on this, I've split the block and done a bit of degreesing but stuck with a couple of sheared bolts so it's time to learn how to mig weld to see if I can remove them. Looking forward to your next episode and also how you might go about cleaning the parts.
Thanks, iv had a bit of time off , im also restoring my discovery , i have a youtube channel for that project too, iv been lucky with this engine so far all my bolts have come out, iv got a small ultra sonic cleaner that iv not used yet so im excited to try it, i will do before and after photos of engine paint work
Im on with con rods , and im inspecting shells, do you have your shell part numbers, there stamped on shells, i have type a and b for rod end and cap end, but on my right hand rod i have x2 type b shells, which i think is wrong
@@Tattytyres I haven't removed the bearing shells to even take a look at them, they where just tagged and bagged to keep all the components together. I'm not sure even how to remove them carefully without damaging, hence your video's could be better timed for me. I have at RTP (2007 & 2005 model) and not a GS but the part numbers are the same, Looking at the parts diagram I would expect botsides to have a type A and type B.
From the parts micro Fiche.
Bearing shell, cover side, red 2 11247700603
Bearing shell, rod side, blue 2 11247700604
Bearing shell, cover side, red +0,25 2 11247700605
Bearing shell, rod side, blue +0,25 2 11247700606
My little workshop (read wooden shed) is like a sauna at the moment, I'll see if I can look in the morning.
Thanks iv a feeling iv a wrong shell fitted, iv an old set of shells from my other adventure i will dig them out too
Hello, I ask you, are the piston pins different, is the one on the right cylinder lighter?
Im sure there the same i will look up the part numbers and get back to you
The part number for the left and right piston kit is different the part numbers listed for the AB left piston kit is 1125770359. And AB right piston kit is 1125770360. The weight of both pistons are same 0.598kg so im guessing the pins are same, when i get chance i with measure the pins for you
The knock sensor should read 5 ohm, at least that how it was on bombardier 3 cyl jetskie engines.
the surface of the sensor should be clean and tightened to a torque.
Like i said, the piston lays on it's side. many people do more than 250.000km with these engine, i know someone with a 1200GS that has 280.000km and just replaced his drive shaft. some Spaniard was aiming for 500.000km, but that guy was BMW dealer.
is there liquid sealant on the bottom of the cyl vs the crankcase? because no seal to buy there.
There is sealant on base of cylinder and x2 orings, great info on the knock sensor, very much appreciated
@@Tattytyres the knock sensor is kind of a hardware microphone in case you didn't knew. no dirt or what so ever should be in between.
@@Tattytyres It's not cheap, but did you hear off Ceracote? to coat the cylinders, heads en covers.
I discovered on mine, that the "Artic silver" can be wiped off the wheels, just by cleaning them. it's very visible on the 3 spoke wheels i have. there is a ring inside the rims on both sides, easy to wash area where the paint is literally washed off. Of coarse i also have the same corrosion on the same spots as you on the cyls, just not that much albeit being older.
I use e-tech engine enamel on engine covers
@@Tattytyres That's a first, thanks for telling me. needs to research.
What's lady's birth year?
Think engine is 2007 covered 50k
@@Tattytyres
My is 2008 37k km. 0303.
Cheers for movies. I heard the cylinder is made of carbide, however don't know how much truth is that.