I think you said the bigger valves were the exhaust valves. That maybe wrong, I think it’s the opposite. The bigger valves are usually for intake, since it runs on the vacuum of the piston. Not by force of the piston as in the exhaust cycle.
I am extremely interested in this because I am hoping to get an idea as to why after changing my clutch it doesn’t seem to disengage, and the engine temperature rises not long afterwards. I have searched for answers until I am blue in the face, but there’s nothing to be found that shows even a glimpse of pointing me in the right direction. By the way, I am talking about a 2011 GSA that pulling the engine seems to be my last resort. Great video
Hope it's not too late ... but here's a couple things you can try. Remove the clutch slave cylinder (21 52 7 724 542) and make sure it's not corroded or leaking. Check the pushrod and "feltring" as well, make sure they're in good condition. If any of those parts are ganky, that could be the source of your problem. If all those parts look good, try zip-tying the clutch lever against the left grip and leaving it like that overnight or even for 24 hours. If there's any air in the system, that should bleed it out. I found my clutch was grabby after replacing it and this little trick solved the problem. Good luck!
at 13;17 mid screen theres a bolt on the lower end of the screen i removed that attemting to clean carbon/ sludge from 80,2003 miles od riding any way i can get this baby back in looks like its for the timing im really shitted now im thinking spin it over to tdc and that should loosen it up if its a tensioner or something but i dont want to take it off timing and potentially cause valve damage any help would be great new to bmw i got this baby with 78,500 did all the services just barely finished 1 thing i wanted to do was de carbon it kind of sounds iffy and the windshield shakes pretty tough just trying to smoother up a bit
It all depends on how the engine and transmission were maintained. Well-maintained and 96,000 is just getting broken in. My LT is almost at 90,000 and runs and shifts better than ever. If abused, then I agree that 96,000 is probably end of life.
I totally agree with you. I have the same engine in my BMW r 1200 rt (2009) and it has 105000 km. This engine in video is dirty so I think this engine was abused a lot.
Crazy Question: Can this engine run WITHOUT the transmission attached? (I have an application that I want to use this engine, but don't need the transmission).
@@BMWMOAorg I know, I know, but to even make a tool for something like that tells you that the underlying design sucks. I think BMW makes far more money off special tools and parts than they do selling motorcycles.
@@LTVoyager If you wanted to be anal about it you could unbolt the alternator tilt it over replace the belt and bolt back down, some use a thin bit of plastic eg milk bottle to protect the belt as you gently pass it over the pulley. In reality be gentle just use the big spanner. Note the belt is a bit special as its elastic, make sure if you replace it, it is the right one they also come in two lengths for 2 types of alternator(pulley diameter). thanks for the vid.
that which the cam sensor senses would be the reluctor wheel its just a magnetic pulse essentially
I'm still learning thanks guys
Good show
What’s the part number for the special tool that locks the camshaft? At 15:04? Thanks.
Hello, I ask you, are the piston pins different, is the one on the right cylinder lighter?
I think you said the bigger valves were the exhaust valves. That maybe wrong, I think it’s the opposite. The bigger valves are usually for intake, since it runs on the vacuum of the piston. Not by force of the piston as in the exhaust cycle.
You're right - intake valves are 36mm, exhaust valves are 31mm. My bad!
I am extremely interested in this because I am hoping to get an idea as to why after changing my clutch it doesn’t seem to disengage, and the engine temperature rises not long afterwards. I have searched for answers until I am blue in the face, but there’s nothing to be found that shows even a glimpse of pointing me in the right direction. By the way, I am talking about a 2011 GSA that pulling the engine seems to be my last resort. Great video
Hope it's not too late ... but here's a couple things you can try.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder (21 52 7 724 542) and make sure it's not corroded or leaking. Check the pushrod and "feltring" as well, make sure they're in good condition. If any of those parts are ganky, that could be the source of your problem.
If all those parts look good, try zip-tying the clutch lever against the left grip and leaving it like that overnight or even for 24 hours. If there's any air in the system, that should bleed it out. I found my clutch was grabby after replacing it and this little trick solved the problem. Good luck!
at 13;17 mid screen theres a bolt on the lower end of the screen i removed that attemting to clean carbon/ sludge from 80,2003 miles od riding any way i can get this baby back in looks like its for the timing im really shitted now im thinking spin it over to tdc and that should loosen it up if its a tensioner or something but i dont want to take it off timing and potentially cause valve damage any help would be great new to bmw i got this baby with 78,500 did all the services just barely finished 1 thing i wanted to do was de carbon it kind of sounds iffy and the windshield shakes pretty tough just trying to smoother up a bit
Have you video of removing engine from r1200rt 2008+/-
No we don't - yet! If we ever get one needing its engine removed, we'll be sure to make a video of that.
It all depends on how the engine and transmission were maintained. Well-maintained and 96,000 is just getting broken in. My LT is almost at 90,000 and runs and shifts better than ever. If abused, then I agree that 96,000 is probably end of life.
I totally agree with you. I have the same engine in my BMW r 1200 rt (2009) and it has 105000 km. This engine in video is dirty so I think this engine was abused a lot.
Agreed.
96.000 mls is around 155.000 km wich is pretty much the amount of my 2007 GSA. Still running well.
Crazy Question: Can this engine run WITHOUT the transmission attached? (I have an application that I want to use this engine, but don't need the transmission).
Yes, the engine will run without a transmission connected to it. You'll need to attach a flywheel to get it started, though.
BIG valves for intake, SMALL valves for exhaust.
I noticed that too, many things wrong shown and said in this video.
96,000 miles wow
My R1200S has covered 98 000 miles and my other 76 000 miles.
@@mintysaurauscongrats mate that’s epic.
It's not scrap if it still ran.
Hello, I have an inquiry for the minute 12:22
the minute 12:30
Has anyone ever swapped out a 98hp engine for a 110hp DOHC engine on their
Anything is possible with enough time, motivation and money :)
Only BMW would design a belt drive that requires a $100 tool to install the belt. Sheesh.
"recommends" - as you saw, there are two ways to install the belt without the "official" tool
@@BMWMOAorg I know, I know, but to even make a tool for something like that tells you that the underlying design sucks. I think BMW makes far more money off special tools and parts than they do selling motorcycles.
@@LTVoyager If you wanted to be anal about it you could unbolt the alternator tilt it over replace the belt and bolt back down, some use a thin bit of plastic eg milk bottle to protect the belt as you gently pass it over the pulley. In reality be gentle just use the big spanner. Note the belt is a bit special as its elastic, make sure if you replace it, it is the right one they also come in two lengths for 2 types of alternator(pulley diameter). thanks for the vid.