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Was yours the motor fault? Im going to do a part 2 video about taking abs control module off to try and solve my pressure fault, thanks for watching

My fault was only about the motor. Now as far as I know pressure faults are "unfixable" , even modulemaster says they can't fix it. But since you're going to take it apart , ping me and maybe i can give some insight (hopefully). If not I'm still looking forward to part 2!

Yeah i think im on road to a replacement abs unit, i messaged module masters, they were very helpful, it would be helpful to know if i can use any used abs unit from 2007 to 2012. And if abs unit needs coding to my bike

Some say they don't need coding some say they do. Now im new to BMW motorcycles but im extremely well versed in BMW cars, knowing BMW im sure as hell it's going to need coding. As far as the module goes I'm pretty certain you can use any K25 one , except the servo assist which were before 2007.

Gs911 diagnostic tool thanks

Realoem is good for comparing part numbers

@@Tattytyres German BMW dealer with online "ersatzteile catalog" probably better. That's how i figured i could use R1150 parts on my R1100, even the axle through the front wheel was the same, the "tacho" mechanism, bearings, although the "fork" tubes was not due to other brake calipers, but the inner tubes are. : )

Good info, u know your bmw’s

@@Tattytyres Only the R1100RS - R1150RS and a little on the GS, because i have the final drive of a 1150GS. This final drive casing was used on the K1100, K1200, R1100 & R1150, apart from different gears, but could have different holes for speed sensor, ABS or the GS mudguard, but the casting was the same. When i got hold of R1150RS subframe, i knew i could upgrade to 6 speed with hydraulic clutch, new hand controls. I had the wheels, bigger brake, fork already. You might wanna try a RS Final drive if you never leave the road. you loose a 5/6% acceleration but gain that same in topspeed. Look for: "K1200S Endantrieb zerlegen" if you see some Russain text in the title you're good, that's the guy i told you about, that made his own tools to dismount and mount his final drive, the one design u have. Soon i can tell you what they charge to rebuild one, with all bearings, seals new.

Sounds like a air leak on the intake manifold

Hi sorry you dont like video, i had to change music as i had a copy right claim and it changed my video edit, reason im stripping this engine is because i have a r1200gs and when i checked my engine oil after a service i found metal particles, so i bought this engine to take apart to try and work out where metal particles were coming from, my bike still runs fine and iv covered over 15,000miles since, i even rebuilt top ends on my bike and big end bearings were fine, i hope you enjoy rest of my videos, im no expert and videos are there to just show whats inside the engine, thanks

Great info thank you very much

@@Tattytyres Just an idea, drill 2 mm hole in center of the broken bolt, just deep enough to pierce the other side, fill it with "this" oil and let it stand for few days, look if the oil level drops, then try to make slot for a screwdriver, use a contra tap to unlock broken bolts or weld something on. 3 engines, you need 1 more gearbox to make it complete and black. : ) Looking forward to next video.

Yeah i should have lots of spares ha, yeah i will leave to soak, but i will prob not reuse the cases, i think i will degrease them and put them on garage wall as a display, just hoping the spare engine cases are good ha

@@Tattytyres I can't judge for you, but probably a good idea to look for a used final drive for the same GS, a RS, RT has a smaller crown wheel, 2 teeth less (i know i have both for my R1100RS), but will go faster in top speed vs slower acceleration, difference = 6%. For the day yours brakes down, i know a guy that has a R1200GS and did more than 250.000 km and still driving around, although with recent new shaft. it's luck based. There are 2 models, the first one has a aluminum "plate" to bolt the wheel on, the newer one has a inox plate, you should research if the newer plate or newer final drive fits older models. It's quite a job to take it apart where you need to build tools to get it apart and together again. also your need a special socket for the input shaft, witch probably hard to get if not impossible, like in my case. You need to make heavy duty adapter plates with thread rods to pull that plate off using the bolt holes from the casing, use the bolts around to pull it. some guy with a BMW K1200S posted a video maybe your can find it. it looked like he used a CNC plasma cutter to make these plates.

Yeah, i didnt use music on rest of videos thanks

@@Tattytyres Going to watch them. I can hear better without the music thanks.

I had to change music and it kinda messed the video up, i hope u enjoy rest of videos thank you

Thanks, well looks like i may have some spares so if you round anything off give me a shout, im guessing your in uk?

Thanks, hows things.have you had any good projects

@@Tattytyres I'm still working on my R1100RS, trying to making it best on the planet using BMW OEM parts.

​@@Tattytyres The early R1200 engine casing looks very similar to the R1100/R1150, as far as i can see, but the gearbox mating surface looks different.

Front and rear Shocks and side stand and centre stand, about £200

It goes up and above heading then i fed wire down passenger side body post to step

Father in law rode it around isle of man, next trip is spain, he likes the handling

Thank you on your answer

Hi, iv not reassemble this engine yet, im just looking for some new or used engine casings after i found the damage, which info do you need i may be able to help thanks

Yeah no problem, the bearing taps out easy enough, when i start refurbing the casings i will show you

@@Tattytyresnice one.

@@Tattytyrescould you just leave the bolt in and then use the “puller” to push the gear with the bearing attached so that you don’t have to worry the gear coming off and effecting timing?

Yeah easy enough with casing off

Hi, if you remove front timing cover oil will pour out, it might be a good to drain engine oil into a clean container if you want to reuse oil, then remove timing cover, thank and happy new year to you too

Yeah i will be doing a chemical dip and spray, and some parts will be vapor blasted, the new bmw bikes are very tempting, i still enjoy my old bmw’s so might be a while before i own one, thanks for comment, keep them comming

@@Tattytyres i just bought a R1150RS frame and 6 speed gearbox for my R1100RS, the entire steer will be replaced and updated to the R1150RS with hydraulic clutch. also got a R1100GS final drive so i can place the mudguard of the GS rear wheel. I loose 6% of the top speed but acquire 6% more torque. i also learned the that input shaft of the R1100/r1150's is very related to the input shaft of the BMW R100GS with paralever. you could use it in a R1100/R1150 if you trim the splined shaft a bit. i saw a pic this week of both parts next to each other. also the final drive relations of 31:11, 33:11, etc is maintained from the R100, K100. i got more internal plastic parts that are 10 years younger and look like new. accept the inner rear fender. i love my old BMW, these 100Nm torque pull insane, i think. although a Yamaha R6 is faster, more hp but a lot less torque. i wonder how the new R1300 with almost 150 Nm pulls, it will probably stretch your arms, lol Try to mask it and powder coat the case. probably a better choise, it's harder, like plastic.

Sounds fun send some photos

`@@Tattytyres Why chemical dip rather than Vapor blast? I got a quote to vapour blast just the block and there won't be any change out of £200. Should I be looking at a chemical dip instead?

Supose its up to budget and time i reckon when refurbing casings, iv had great results on all types of prep, even just a good old wire brush and paint stripper, i will add a link to the last engine i did

I bought the engine as a spare, and has been sat around garage a while, so i thought it would be fun to strip down and see how it all works and show people, so yeah i was told it was a running engine with a oil leak, i think your right about my case, i will give case a chance, i will take it to a welder and see what they suggest. You can send me some photos of your engine if you like to my instagram page

My bike is 2007, yeah i just keep servicing my bike and riding it, its always sounded a little clunky, even after replacing the shells, keep a close eye on your oil when you drain sump, look out for bits, let me know if you require and more videos

@@Tattytyres appreciate that. I do the same. I try to do as much maintenance as possible that I understand. I with the help of a general mechanic have split that bike twice now since I've owned it. Getting pretty good at it. Lol. First BMW and I can honestly say I would only ever buy a Japanese dirt bike now. All others WILL be BMW. Thank you again and the bike looks great!

50,000 miles

Hi so far the shells look ok, im just abit concerned about the repair on the engine cases, i might look out for a pair of used engine cases,

Thank you for waiting, sorry it took so long, just have lots of projects on at mo, let me know if i can assist in anyway,

@@Tattytyres Thank you so much, I truly appreciate. I have an engine that was previously in an aircraft. It needs a total teardown to make sure all is OK. I live in South Africa, I wish I was closer. No worries about the timelapse. I am a patient subscriber and now I know what the crankshaft looks like. Blessings from Africa. Do you have a reference to tolerances? Thanks again.

I will be checking tolerances and will put them in a video, so far the main bearings and thrust bearings look very good condition

Im sure there the same i will look up the part numbers and get back to you

The part number for the left and right piston kit is different the part numbers listed for the AB left piston kit is 1125770359. And AB right piston kit is 1125770360. The weight of both pistons are same 0.598kg so im guessing the pins are same, when i get chance i with measure the pins for you

I will try again, my editing had not gone to plan that day, ha, thank you for your comment , enjoy the rest of videos

Paint stripper and patience

Does noise come from front of engine, balancer shaft and gears can be noisy, i once had the braided hose for the clutch tapp against a panel at certain rpm, that took some finding ha

Wow, that was fast !!! For me the noise comes from front as far as i can say when i am drivin. I also have the lackalackalacka noise when in neutral with no clutch pulled, but not so loud. here a link from youtube wich is similar to mine. people sayin thats normal... here is the link, mine is not so loud. but remember, that noise is not the one i am searching for. th-cam.com/video/oCZpKoKVmBw/w-d-xo.html The strange thing is, that it is sometimes completely gone. I thought about cable problem with the sparkplugs or knock sensor..... is there a way to test it ? @@Tattytyres

Did you see my message :-) ?

Only seen your first message,

For me the noise comes from front as far as i can say when i am drivin. I also have the lackalackalacka noise when in neutral with no clutch pulled, but not so loud. here a link from youtube wich is similar to mine. people sayin thats normal... here is the link, mine is not so loud. but remember, that noise is not the one i am searching for. th-cam.com/video/oCZpKoKVmBw/w-d-xo.html The strange thing is, that it is sometimes completely gone. I thought about cable problem with the sparkplugs or knock sensor..... is there a way to test it ? @@Tattytyres

Great idea, i will get my straight edge out, the clutch assembly is spare so if i carnt save assembly i can always use one off another bike,

@@Tattytyres i saw also a guy, using a 330 cl soft drink can with the top removed to slide over the crank i the back and mount the big crank seals and people that cut open a straight plastic soft drink bottle or Yogurt dessert package to slide the front crank seal on, the inner tubes of the front front in to the seals.

I use a updated bmw part when i do front crank seal, very easy to use, i have the part number if you need it, i think i put the updated seal number in my timing cover removal video description. And also in my instagram i have a picture of my other engine when i refurbished that, if you need a great paint product

instagram.com/p/CHiigsZgJTa/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

@@Tattytyres my BMW dealer doesn't sell tools : ( I need the tool for the triple tree where the steering lock / handle bars is for unlocking the telelever ball joints nuts. the lower one is being replaced by BMW self as i need the one that was used on the Rockster witch is different. it's also 45 mm and no shop sells a 45 mm wreng. as well clutch plate center tool, the crank fixation pin can be almost any 8 mm pin. by the way the BMW r1150 rockster is also a very cool bike or the K1300R.

Hi, so far i think its shells, gaskets, and paint, think last time it cost me less than £300 on my other gs, how are you getting on with your build

@@Tattytyres Mine has not progressed, I don't seem to find any vapourr blast places around me, so I wondered if I shouldn't use some Decarbonising Fluid instead, like decarboniser 777. The block has been degreesed, but there is a lot of paint that I'd probably like to take off, before I respray it. It could be that the decarbonising fluid might help with stripping the paint, I'm open to suggestion. On the parts list you might find some of those bolts are stretch bolts and therefore need replacing too. My parts list will be much longer (technically not a cost viable rebuilt - but the experience is worth it), All my cam chain guides where shattered, suction tube and intake manifold where destroyed by the cam chain tensioner found loose inside the engine. Timing chain guide was also broken.

Hi, iv successfully used paint stripper on casings and resprayed, i have some pictures on my instagram

instagram.com/p/CHiigsZgJTa/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Oops sorry should have read the comments 50,000 m Great videos thanks

50,000miles, so far im very happy with the engine, im mostly stripping engine because its a spare engine and just wanted to show people my engine being dismantled so i can refurb the paint work and measure and inspect components for wear, so far im very happy with the engineering of this engine, thanks for watching

@@Tattytyres really enjoying the videos thanks

Hi, could you take a photo of the part you need help with thanks

Thank you your very welcome, i am enjoying dismantling my engine and seeing how things work, im very impressed with the engineering that goes into making engines, enjoy

Theres a engineering shop near me, i think they wont need to do anything, just a clean up, i will prob buy a set of shells , if you look on my paper chart you can see i have x2 cap shells 603, rather than a 603 and a 604 shell, the engines running perfect like that, ?

@@Tattytyres i saw that in the end. Well, i just looked in the catalog from a big big German BMW dealer, 603 = cap, 604 = conrod. maybe some "mechanic" on a monday morning, lol. My dealer doesn't allow me to return parts after order, maybe you should take the shells to a dealer to compare with a caliper vs new if they have these on stock. It didn't look like the conrod was freely to move lateral cause the scratch to be wider and more groves. it should be good to go again. but i guess you have to make work of the oil channels in the crank, case parts and try to find particles. your oil pump housing also has some scratches. When you have the crank at hand, put a drop of oil on there and mount the conrod again, if there is no play. use it again, there is some "plastic" compound engineers use, they roll a sausage and mount the conrod, than disassemble again and measure with caliper how think the "plastis sausage" is after being sqauzed. the same trick is also used on camshafts to see if the caps are still good.

@mathewhighley4495 the 2 parts of the oil pump housing is 35€ and 77€, the 3 rotors are 30€ each, but the shaft is 260€ ... and it's probably the cause. please show them.

Yeah thats ok with me, that ukgser group is great thanks

11247700603 conrod cap side. 11247700604 conrod side. They are matched pair used on pre 2010 models.