2 tips for others reading comments to do besides this: 1 - you don't need to turn it off - put it in pilot or vacation mode 2 - drain it all the way down, then turn your cold water on for 20-30 sec at a time and let it drain again. I repeat this around 3-4 times until I see no further setiment coming out. The cold water splashes when the tank is empty really help to stir up remaining setiment in the bottom. Then I'll fill the tank full, drain it once more, then fill full again.
I flush my WH after every 6 months of use. After 8 years I decided to check the condition of the anode rod. It no longer existed. Just a stump. Fortunately the WH is still good, so I vowed to replace it every 4 years, because WH's are no longer an inexpensive appliance.
@@Prepheckt cold water is the intake line or pipe. It's usually the first /closest valve from the top of the heater. Feel the two pipes coming out from the the heater and you can probably feel the pipe temperature as well as water running through it. Water is usually straight from street pipes, so are consistent cool, like the cold side of your faucets.
Just a suggestion putting the gas in Pilot works so much better than turning off the gas. Main burner won’t ignite and you don’t have to relight the heater which is a hassle. Great video
Anode rod replacement is a plumbers worst nightmare in profit loss. As a homeowner now doing your own anode rod can extend the life of your hot water tank by a lot of years. I have learned that the good tanks that are sold at supply houses contain two anode rods and that’s why their warranty is greater than the big box stores, but if you do your own anode rod replacements at least three or four year intervals you can get many years out of your hot water tank, it’s such an easy job with so many videos on TH-cam explaining it.
agreed, the issue is when the old anode hasn't worn out completely and still has length to it, they are usually not of the sausage type. perhaps it could be cut off or broken off to accomodate and then install the sausage onward.@@demetriosa7646
why replace it if it's not entirely worn out? i usually replace it based on time, say 7+ years for city units. sometimes i find them with full length just very corroded. i usually dont visually check the anode before recommending it, just recommend based on time. i guess theres a way to check it through milivolts too on some models to verify if it needs to be replaced. so going forward i only recommend on units that have enough ceiling and 7+ years no anode replacement
The rust color is the remnants of your Anode rod. They have an iron steel core covered with magnesium or aluminum. When the magnesium or aluminum is eaten off, it starts to rust the iron steel core. That's when it's time to change. You can usually tell by running a hot water faucet you don't use much. The water comes out rusty. I replace mine every 3 years. Regular inspection shows it's just about done after that amount of time for my situation. Water Heater going on 12 years old and works great. Getting ready to replace the rod again on it's 3 year anniversary next week. I usually do all the basic maintenance stuff on the house in Dec. Anode rods, drain water heater, smoke alarm batteries (had to actually replace the units all today - they have a 10 year life), furnace filters (those are 4 times a year), whole house water filter (3 times a year.). People say to do it in January, but I'm still recovering from New Years Eve that month.
Unless you live in a mobile home like most of us in the south and flori...duh. I put a new one in about 4 years ago with the first anode rods, that they call something else. Something self sacrificing rod, oops, I said it by accident. sacrificial anode. Lucky guess. Problem with mobile homes is they are so difficult to get to. But not as difficult as it was replacing it with the help of a neighbor and the expense. Thanks for that idea. If my back ever stops killing me I might check mine out after I unscrew the drywall cover off of it. Everything is so tight fitting in a mobile hope. Thanks for reminding me. 😁
I salvaged a hot water heater out of an old apartment building 80 gallon gas the date of installation was written on it at over 12 years old and it was properly installed with electrolic couplers my brother was just rebuilding his house originally it had been divided into multiple suites 2 on each floor with a shared bathroom on each floor except the basement and the 2 suite downstairs had to share with the upper 2 he put a couple decent 2 bedrooms upstairs sacrificing a 3rd bedroom for a laundry room it had its own furnace and hot water heater but the basement was on his electric meter and gas meter so the large hot water heater was a necessity we figured if it lasted 5 more years he could then afford to replace it was over 35 years old when it finally sprung a leak and that was because he didn't maintain it properly it had been a good 10 years without being flushed out too much sentiment on the bottom and the heat builds up but I've had a lot of tanks last that long or longer what generally causes tank failure is built in obsolescence same as the old galvanized tanks as long as galvanized pipe was the norm it was steel pipe to steal tank same metal don't cause electrolysis no transfer of the softer metal to the harder then copper pipe was cheap and easy to use. no threading pipe just quick and easy solder joints and then the problem began dielectric couplings gradually became the norm as with any new construction changes it took a while before the plumber started to understand what electrolysis was and how it works but it soon became the norm to install them then a new idea came along put a anoid rod in the tank and dielectric couplings were theoretical not needed but it was a a trap if glass lined tanks are perfectly covered but they are not there are almost always pinholes and electrolysis takes the shortest route so if the pinhole is closer to the copper pipe that's where the metal will be removed from interesting enough with the old galvanized tanks a lag bolt with a washer could be used to plug the leak it still can be used but with the insulation and metal jackets it's almost impossible to find the leak in the side or top of the tank I once replaced a 180 gallon hot water heater over 2 grand for the tank and it lasted between 4 and 5 years before it started leaking just for curiosity I cut off the jacket jacket leak was about 4 inches down from the top just a pinhole if it had been just the insulation jacket I'd have put in a plug and used it for a secondary tank but it was a Rheem without the flue in the center of the tank instead it had a jacket that brought the heat up the outside of the tank and since I wasn't planning on fixing the tank I cut both jackets off even now I still salvage old hot water heater in most cases cases all that's needed wrong wrong is the dip tube has disintegrated cold water goes in and straight across to the hot water outlet so you get about 5 gallons of hot water and it's cold let it sit for a few minutes and you have another 5 gallons most plumber recommend you replace the tank for a 20$fix at this time my well is not working needs to be pulled out and a new Sandpoint put in 3 hundred dollars if I DIY 7 if I have it done and in7 years do it all over again so I took my collection of old water heaters 3 electric and one gas hooked them together and haul water we use about 2.50 worth of water a week so I can buy a lot of water for the price of a new Sandpoint and no hard water and no coal dust in the water no pluged risers no dead plants
My home was new in 2008. I flushed my water heater once a year for first 3 years then the 3rd year the striker wouldn’t work so I had to call a maintenance man to come install a new one. He said from now on don’t turn off the gas. Just flush the water heater with the gas on. He said these strikers aren’t made to last long.
Good video. When I lived back up North we did regular water heater maintenance for 95 bucks. Process varies depending on tank types and add on’s but this is the bulk of it: 1. Turn the thermostat down to pilot 2. Hook up a good hose not a cheapy 3. Flush 3-5 gallons out typically 4. Once flushed drain tank down below relief valve confirming vacuum break worked properly. 5. Remove relief valve and inspect the valve from tank side. You will clearly see calcified build up if valve hasn’t been actuated. I would not actuate on a maintenance because if there is crud and you do, the homeowner doesn’t have a choice but to replace it, because it will surely leak after. I’d show them and educate them. 6. Inspect tank lining with camera and usually anode rod depending on tank style. Pull anode if necessary. 7. Check expansion tank psi vs home psi and adjust accordingly. 8. Re-fill tank bleeding air from a double handled sink if possible. Easiest to clear if they get clogged after. Don’t use showers or fancy fixtures first. 9. Set tank temp, allow to heat, test temp at the fixtures.
I flush mine once a year. My last one lasted me 14 years, it really does help prolong the life of the unit. If you really wanna get deep into it, you can also change out the Anode Rod every 3 years.
Our original 40gal nat gas water heater lasted 14 years with hard water and zero maintenance before the shell started to leak. Never flushed, and anode rod never changed. Five years on the replacement with no maintenance. The only change made has been the addition of a water softener. I'm curious if the softener will shorten or extend the life of the tank.
@@JSATI According to the manual for my new water heater: soft water can be hard on it, being more acidic. That calcium carbonate build-up essentially protects the tank from acids.
I moved into my house 15 years ago. The water heater was here before I moved in. Flushed the heater once about 3 years ago when the thermostat broke. It still works great. Shows that you don't have to flush it every year.
Two suggestions: 1. Put a pan an under your water heater. That'll make it easier to spot and trap a leak. 2. Place the heater on a wooden platform built above that concrete floor. When I replaced mine, it was leaking because it had rusted out at the bottom. A wooden platform should make that rusting less likely. It will also provide a bit of additional insulation at the bottom.
The gas heater should be on a platform above the floor for any unburned gas will stay low down. If you have a gas leak and the WH ignites you have serious problems. Electric WH can be directly on the ground. Check your plumbing codes in your local.
@@nygiantsfan84 bricks are not high enough. Platforms in a garage should to be 16" inches off the ground and it can be wood framed. As I mentioned check the local plumbing/building codes. In a basement the codes might be more stringent.
I replaced my water heater 5 years ago and the one that was replaced was made by STATE and was installed in 1981. It had never been flushed, or anode replaced.
It really depends on your water supply. If you have clean water without much in the way of hardness, particulate, metals etc, it can last ages. Where I grew up, my folks tank lasted 20 years. Where I am now, 5-7.
If your water does not contain high concentrations of dissolved minerals I suppose you don’t need to flush your water heater often. My water comes from an aquifer surrounded by limestone.
I have had my gas hot water heater since i bought my trailer in October 1998. Flushed it twice and the plasic drain valve started to leak so fixed that and never again. Its been over 20 years and still is going strong! Have hard water but purchased a water scrubber within 3 months on living in my trailer. Original hot water tank, washing machine, dish washer, refrigerator with ice maker, etc. I give all the ctedit to that Australian made water scrubber! Best $700 i jave ever spent in 1999 too!
Been watching you forever. Will continue, your pretty darn smart. This is first 'notso'. 99.9% of Americans have a water heater with a plastic, angled spigot drain 0.0001" inch off the ground. Mine is in the basement. NO gravity can be used.
The existing water heater when I bought my house lasted 18 years with zero maintenance and I have no idea how many years the original owner had used it before me. One day (luckily) when I was at home I noticed some water coming from under the laundry room door…the hot water supply line fitting on the water heater was corroded and cracked open, spraying water like a broken water hydrant:) The next water heater that I bought on Oct 2014 has still been working very well also with zero maintenance. The drain valve is a couple of inches higher than the bottom of the tank. When you simply let the water run, most of the sediment still remains at the bottom and the few grams of sediment that comes out I don’t think can have any notable impact on the longevity of your water heater. Had I drained my first water heater every year, it wouldn’t have prevented the fitting from corroding anyway, I would just have wasted a ton of water.
@@asuhayda1 Some folks need to learn the hard way. Given the multiple paragraphs this person wrote defending never doing maintenance, I suspect they are one of those people and that they don’t care about efficiency, capacity, or water quality impact.
Great idea. I’ve never done it - last replacement was due to a bad gas valve, but replaced since 12 yrs old. Draining, water wasn’t dirty, but I’ll experiment this summer. Tank was replaced 2021, same model you have. I’ll do gravity drain with open tub faucet since tanks fill from the bottom. Thx.
Another suggestion. I have done a Lot of these and occasionally the valve will be plugged. Push some Water into the outlet valve to blow it out. Then it will usually flow. Sometimes on a really bad one you have to replace the valve if it leaks. Its a minor project.
I installed a new water heater in 2012 and on the advice of someone on the internet, I removed the aluminum anode and replaced it with a platinum wire and power supply. 11 years later still no crap comes out of the valve. The kit was $200+ back then though. YMMV
Thanks. I have had to change the heating element in an electric water heater where it had never been flushed and the so called "cal-rod" or sacrificial anode had completely disintegrated and stopped up the drain. You have to keep turning pressure back on the drain hose to dislodge the sediment then pressure on the tank until it clogs again, back and forth until it's out.
I just did mine a few days ago, changed anode rod, and cleaned up the fittings. One tank I have is a 9 year rated tank that has been working for 14 years. My other tank has a 6 year rating and is 10 years old. Flush once a year, or just open the drain valve a few times and get a blast of water out the bottom a few times a year. After a flush and refill, you will still get a bit of colored water at the faucets until the sediment settles back down.
I have a water heater in a seasonal property that gets drained every year and goes unused for about four months. It's getting close to 20 years old now.
par with flushing is replacing the anode rod, every 2-3 years (maybe more). this greatly extends the life of a tank. I have two tanks that have lasted over 15 years with regular flushed and anode rod changed twice.
great job! did you say to run only the hot water (and y not cold or same time?), why did you shut pilot off? y not just keep it on and run cold water? thanks
If you've NEVER flushed, you don't truly know if it's dirty. There's still sediment in your shower/kitchen water just very small amounts. Just because it's not visibly dirty doesn't mean the tank itself isn't a but dirty. Do your maintenance bro
Word of advice, if you have a plastic drain valve on your water heater and its over 6 years old be prepared for it to never close up again and leak all over if you open it. Best to drain the heater down and replace the valve with a brass one to be able to do these flushes regularly. A lot of times those plastic valves will either not close fully or leak from behind. Never had a brass one leak from behind, and if it does leak a little you can cap them off easily.
Better approach to temperature is to use a thermometer at the faucet closest to the heater. Set the control valve so the water at that faucet is 120°F maximum, then mark that setting on the controller. This will protect from scalding injuries, and is still high enough to work well with dishwashers. The markings on most water heaters are not necessarily very accurate, it's best to use a real thermometer at the point of use.
Especially since you are never emptying the tank, I don't think you need to turn the gas to Off. Just pilot would be fine. That saves you all the unnecessary work of relighting it. [Even if you emptied it, I still Pilot mode should be sufficient.]
My brother uses the drain output to wash his cars in the winter. It gets a mini flush every week or so for 3 months. Never has a buildup of junk in the bottom. No need to shut it off either.
After buying my home, My water heater was a rust bucket when I checked it. I put in a whole home water filter system and replaced the water heater shortly after. I flush it twice a year and honestly I probably don’t have to. It stays clean and I don’t have to buy bottled water to drink
My A.O. Smith water heaters (2) were installed in 2005, that's 19 years as of 2024... I try to give them both a quick flush, 5 gallons or so weekly when I'm taking out my trash. I also swap out the anode rods every other year. If one tank fails at some point I'll switch them both out with the same make and model if possible. On a side note my Burnham series 2 boilers (2) were installed in 1991, they're both running strong and keeping the house nice and warm year after year. I'm kinda embarrassed to say that I've never done anything in 33 years to either of them. I keep them clean on the outside but I've never had either of the 2 serviced. Even the expansion tanks are still functioning after more than 3 decades. I'm knocking on wood at this very moment feeling fortunate with their longevity.
I never found that to work worth a rat. Did it once, and two months later, banging and boiling from percolation. I drained the heater, unscrewed the tap from the drain pipe. I fired up my pressure washer, stuck the tip against the opening of the pipe and let it rip. Every few seconds, I'd shut it off and let the water drain out. Out came pounds of sand, grit, minerals and other particles. I repeated until nothing came out with the water. No more percolation sounds.
Prior to changing the anode in a 15 year old Bradford White propane heater, I drained 4 gallons of water. A minimal amount of sediment came out. I replaced the anode, but the original was actually in good shape, almost a waste of time.
The advice for flushing every 6 months isn't excessive if: 1) you live in an area with hard water (lots of lime in your water), and 2) you have an electric water heater. The elements in an electric will accumulate and slough-off a LOT of deposits. I've spent countless hours slowly scraping/scooping out deposits that accumulated all the way up to the bottom heating element in electric units.
I know that you covered tanked water heaters, tankless water heaters (as I see that your about to cover) should be every 6 months. Just did mine and made a world of difference on the heat.
Great video! I've done this a few times to my own water heater but didn't know I could keep the water on. I've always thought it "safer" to turn the water off. Problem when I do that is it takes forever to drain...and I'm on level with my drain.
IF IT TAKES TO LONG TO DRAIN OPEN THE HOT AND COLD WATER SPIGOTS ON THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF YOUR HOUSE TO PURGE THE TRAPED AIR IN THE SYSTEM.. IT WILL DRAIN QUICKER!
I just had a brand new indirect tank (Bosch) put in. Guy suggested flushing 5 gal. every month. Then extend to two, or three, etc., if I don't find anything. We've been in this house, with the same tankless boiler (Burnham), for 39 years. Still going strong, although we occasionally need to replace the coil because we have hard water here. Given that this is our first indirect heater, I'm following that advice until I find sediment, then I'll back off.
OK, what you've flushed out of your water heater is most likely the magnesium from your original Anode Rod that has been doing it's job by sacrificing itself to protect your water heater for the last 6-7 years. If you haven't yet I'd replace that Anode Rod asap. You will be surprised how little of it is actually left, especially after 6-7 years...
I have a whole house filter and and a water softener before the heater. After reading about anodes and water softeners i replaced my anode with a electric power one.
HVAC Tech Here, when on Hot Water Tank flush call what I like to do is let the tank drain completely with the feeder valve closed, once empty, open & close the feeder valve in rapid successions over 30 secs to 1 minute, to allow the jet of city pressurized water ( 60 psi) to hit the bottom and disturb the sediment that is acting like ice over a lake, slowing down heat transfer.
the sediment does not transfer heat as well as metal does. which is why when you place your hand on something metal on a cool day it will feel colder than it actually is. simply because it conducts heat(steals) much better than most material.
Mine's almost 12 years old now, I've done "this" about every 6 months… It is a 12 year Kenmore model (probably not warrantied for that long, but rather its expected lifetime). Got it from Sears when the previous water heater started to leak at the top. Haven't actually filtered the water to see if it is discolored or anything… next time! (My "this" is turn off the pilot, turn off the water, open the various (hot water) faucets in the house, let it drain for about a half hour or so (until it stops), turn on the water for a while, let that drain out too. Then reverse the process and fire it back up.) Hate to jinx it but it's been a great water heater, haven't done anything with anode rod(s). (I recall trying to remove one from earlier heater(s), but couldn't get it to budge (and didn't want to break anything)). The one that we put in before this one on the other hand was a piece of junk and not installed properly (thus the leak at the top, two different metals). Also you could never rely on it 100% to give you hot water as sometimes it didn't seem to realize it needed to fire up, and you just got cold water. (GE... never again.) Also I remember when draining it there was always some kind of white goop that used to drain out as well. Plus also it had a noisy burner. Yuck. And finally the first (original) one wasn't too bad, but may have been neglected as it had problems draining after a while. (Same brand as the manufacturer of the Kenmore model, which I think was A.O. Smith.) Ended up changing it out but in reality perhaps it just needed a really good flush probably more like detailed here than being replaced, though come to think its anode rode was probably pretty much gone too, if my recollection of what came out with the water when drained was any indication.
4:22 You have so much "residual water" in the hose because it is higher than the valve. As soon as you loosen the hose, the water drains back to the lowest point. The entire hose is full of water. If you put a garden hose inline valve on the end and turn it off, it will keep a vacuum inside the hose, much like covering the end of a soda straw in a glass and lifting the straw. Then, you can drain it into your sump or a bucket.
For economic/green reasons you want to keep your water heater as cold as tolerable, less temp differential, less heat loss, but for health reasons you want to keep it above 120, 130-140 preferred, to prevent the growth of organisms in your water heater such as legionella especially if you aren't using water with residual sterilizing agents such as chlorine.
What should I do about my water heater when I get back next month? The gas has been turned off for 2 years, because I’ve not been there, due to various circumstances.
according to this old house if your anode rod not been taken out within 2 years the rod fuses to the tank and harder get out- also to remove Styrofoam this was after trying many things this was the easiest for me
on mine it a 1 1/16 socket to clean out the installation hole i think easiest way for me was to use a flat peanut butter knife score in saw motion deep as u can into the installation and then use a screw driver long needle nose pliers thin and break it all up then use shop vac with a 10" ryobi 10" table saw port adapter to collect the Styrofoam in wet dry shop vac - to collect the installation till hole clean as you can get it- that worked pretty well- refill hole with garage installation board it about 10.00 a sheet something- i using it to insulate around doors in my old house then using panel over it its not too bad
Get your water tested for hardness. If you need a softener, get one. In your style of HWH, the calcium and magnesium will bake onto the bottom of your tank around where the heat source is. It will form a layer of “rock” and you have to heat the water through that layer. It really increases gas consumption. Electric heaters have the same result, as the elements get encrusted with the minerals and vastly increase electrical consumption. I’ve been a plumber for 45 years.
Well there are few details missing here... The water heater will heat the water and cause the minerals to clump up into larger chunks. Over time with the gas heater you will hear them bouncing around in the tank when the burner is on. It almost sounds like coins in the clothes dryer. The drain valve on thar heater is about a 3/8" port way too small for those chunks of sediment to leave the tank, you are only removing the small granular material and leaving the larger stuff behind. To avoid this flush and drain the tank yearly from installation, also replace that drain valve with a full port ball valve for better flow. To reduce the sediment buildup in the tank and other the milky residue left on other plumbing fixtures consider installing a water filtration system that does not use salt.
It is OK to simply turn the gas control to “Pilot” position when draining and flushing. After refilling the water heater then turn the gas control to “Heat”. Absolutely do NOT allow the water heater to fully burn gas and heat when NO water is in the water heater.
This was a great video with easy to follow instructions! Thank you so much-I just had to have 2 water heaters replaced due to leaking. I will put them on my calendar to flush them both next year and hopefully they will last a long time. 7:54
I had two heaters, both lasted 15+ years with zero maintenance. If I had to hire somebody to do what you suggest, might have lasted longer, also I'd have paid several times the cost of the replacement.
You should do a video on how to change drain valves next because many times they leak after use if the tank is older especially the cheap plastic ones.
Many comments suggest replacing the anode rod. It looks like you will be replacing your tank water heater with a tankless water heater. After doing so, would you consider removing the anode rod from your 7 year old tank water heater (without any maintenance) to show your viewers how much is left after six years. Some comments suggested replacing the annode every 2-3 years. Seeing what is left in your water heater after 7 years, may inform users how long an anode rod lasts before the rest of the tank starts rusting. BTW - what is the warranty on your current water heater tank?
My current heater is just out of warranty as it’s 7 years old. I will be doing a video soon on replacing the anode rode with a powered anode rod that has a 20 year warranty so stay tuned for that one!! Cheers
According to the plumber that we had work on our water heater, you do not have to turn the heater off when you flush the heater and only need to flush it once every year
Def'y change out the anode!! You should be doing that every 3-5 years (cost +/- $30) but you can get one now that will never need to be changed out (more expensive of course)
I do think this is probably beneficial. There are other videos on YT that debate it. (flush or don't flush) One video has a plumber saying NOT to do it. Seems like common sense to me to DO IT!
Great video! Thank you! My sump pump and crock is just 5 feet away from my water heater. I was thinking of draining right into the crock. However, I'm concerned that the crud coming out of the water heater may clog up the sump pump and ruin it. Your thoughts?
How about a quart or two of Lyme a way.. discount it and let it sit over night I know it's a lot work then flush it in the morning yes you will have to drain some water out of it and put it in with a funnel in the hot side and it will fizz. With the right tools and valves and drains you can do it to a boiler coil.
A friend has a 32 yr old water heater that came with his place so no history on flushing. It had four inches of sediment and the drain was clogged. I sucked out the sediment from the element opening with a shop vac and plastic hose. I might try keeping the cold water on and see if I can clear the drain.
Doesn't seem like a terrible amount of sediment to me, your water is pretty good. I flushed mine once it was 2 years old about 20 years ago and got nothing so decided since in the past the old style valves are known for being troublesome water heater replacement once a problem occurs would be my solution.
I would bet that there is much more hard water sediment in the bottom of that water heater. The draining water can find a path through the sediment and drain valve while leaving much more sediment below the valve. This is a much bigger issue with gas water heaters since the burner is at the bottom. The heat has to get through what may be inches of sediment. On an electric water heater the heating elements are up higher. I suggest after draining the tank, remove the drain valve to take a look inside. On an electric water heater, you could remove the lower heating element to have a look. I use a shop vac with a smaller tube duct taped to the vacuum hose to vacuum out the sediment through the opening after removing the drain valve or heating element. I have routinely taken out a pound of deposits after a year or two since flushing. But, it depends on the mineral content of water in that area.
So, my 4 inch main that heads out to the street does not have a good declination angle which causes accumulation and clogging every 11 years. So when draining the 2 waterheaters I do not turn off the gas but leave as is. All I do is connect the water hose to the bottom drainage of the waterheater and open it. The high pressure coming out i direct straight into my 4 inch main to simultaneously flush my main as i flush my water heater. When I feel the water temperature turn cold I know I have fully flushed the water heater. I do the same with the other water heater. Another thing is when the City stirs up the pipes and dirty water starts entering the waterpipes, I do not use the hot water faucet so that there is no intake of sediment into the tank.
You technically never drained the tank, After you pressurise up the water heater with the hose connected onto it, let it run for a minute then cut the water valve off so all of the water inside of the tank drains, Then once completely drained shut off the drain valve and re open up the cold inlet valve to refill up the water heater. You could do it once or twice for a really sufficient clean
More importantly... change that anode rod!. My air driven impact wouldn't break it loose, but the 90 buck 1/2" Bauer electric impact from Harbor Freight is fantastic. Heavy weight at 8+ pounds. Zip, zip and zoom it was out.
@@mae2759This is true. Is it recommended? Probably not. But some times it's literally the only option. The alternative is using a 4ft breaker bar and (A) unintentionally rotating the entire water heater and placing undue load on the pipes/lines above it. Or (B) discovering just how easy it is to round off the edges of the anode rod plug. I'd say if the tank can't handle a couple hits from an impact, it's about due to be replaced anyway 😅
@@marks.8231 I suppose if you frame it as the 'only option' then yes. Statistically most water heaters never have their anode rods replaced during their lifetime. If you're analyzing failure risks of breaking the glass/any welds vs not replacing the anode rod and allowing the tank to fail as it would without an anode rod, you're likely better off letting it fail without an anode rod. Put another way, if a reasonable breaker bar won't break it loose, the heater is fairly aged as it is. Why take a substantive risk of breaking your heater today when leaving it without a functional anode rod could allow it to run for many years. Cost/Benefit analysis in this case is not in favor of doing 'whatever it takes,' in my/manufacturers'/experienced plumbers' opinions.
So you drained it all the way down, others show keeping the water on to purge out the old, and cycling in steps. You did the same but in one big purge?
Do you have to turn off the ignitor? since there is always water inside? or can you lower the heat to low? I am afraid if I turn it off it won't turn back on.
www.homedepot.com/p/Goodyear-MAXLite-5-8-in-x-50-ft-Premium-Duty-Rubber-Water-Hose-CGYTSGC58050/300520215 I believe it’s this one. Couldn’t find it on Amazon
Does a self cleaning water heater have to be flushed ? also what happens if the valve won't shut off completely from just bein old and stuffed up with corrosion?
You should also replace the anode rod every 4-5 years or so. The only difference between a water heater with a 5 year warranty and a 20 year warranty is the 20 year has multiple anode rods.
FYI. I turn off the breaker for my electric water heater before the last shower of the morning so I'm wasting less hot water. When the initial flush starts to run a bit less crunchy, I recommend pulsing the water supply to stir up more. Tried using a long garden hose to span the basement and reach outside the garage door at other end and the sediment quickly clogged the hose. Yeah, more than 10 years since the install. Will try again in Spring and I'll use a high flow Y splitter and short hoses. One hose to drain the tank, a second hose (and a washer supply hose) to connect to utility tub faucet to backwash the drain valve to clear clogs.
That wouldn't have worked for me. My tank was 18 years old when I first flushed it. Nothing came out at first because it was plugged. Fortunately I had watched a video where a guy used a y adapter that had a tire valve stem on one side to inject air and free up the garbage around the tank outlet. It was 40 bucks to buy so I just made my own for a few dollars with a hose bib cap and then I drilled a hole in it and installed a tire valve stem. Once the valve was open I gave it a few shots of air and it started draining. Then it plugged up again and I gave it shots of air etc etc.
My water heater was put in about 2 years ago. I want to flush it, but I heard about this tool called the Turbo tank cleaner. Have you heard about this tool, and do you think that it will do a better job to shake up all that settlement in the water heater tank. To get it out nice and clean. Or do you think it might do some damage.
2 tips for others reading comments to do besides this:
1 - you don't need to turn it off - put it in pilot or vacation mode
2 - drain it all the way down, then turn your cold water on for 20-30 sec at a time and let it drain again. I repeat this around 3-4 times until I see no further setiment coming out. The cold water splashes when the tank is empty really help to stir up remaining setiment in the bottom. Then I'll fill the tank full, drain it once more, then fill full again.
I flush my WH after every 6 months of use. After 8 years I decided to check the condition of the anode rod. It no longer existed. Just a stump. Fortunately the WH is still good, so I vowed to replace it every 4 years, because WH's are no longer an inexpensive appliance.
How do you turn the cold water on to fill?
@@Prepheckt cold water is the intake line or pipe. It's usually the first /closest valve from the top of the heater. Feel the two pipes coming out from the the heater and you can probably feel the pipe temperature as well as water running through it. Water is usually straight from street pipes, so are consistent cool, like the cold side of your faucets.
@smartpig2386 For systems that have vacation mode, pilot mode is for "lighting" so your comment is irrelevant
Really good points. Will try next time.
Just a suggestion putting the gas in Pilot works so much better than turning off the gas. Main burner won’t ignite and you don’t have to relight the heater which is a hassle. Great video
Anode rod replacement is a plumbers worst nightmare in profit loss. As a homeowner now doing your own anode rod can extend the life of your hot water tank by a lot of years. I have learned that the good tanks that are sold at supply houses contain two anode rods and that’s why their warranty is greater than the big box stores, but if you do your own anode rod replacements at least three or four year intervals you can get many years out of your hot water tank, it’s such an easy job with so many videos on TH-cam explaining it.
hopefully you've got a high enough ceiling or you'll regret starting the job.
Just buy the sausage links aluminums and there’s no issues !
agreed, the issue is when the old anode hasn't worn out completely and still has length to it, they are usually not of the sausage type. perhaps it could be cut off or broken off to accomodate and then install the sausage onward.@@demetriosa7646
why replace it if it's not entirely worn out? i usually replace it based on time, say 7+ years for city units. sometimes i find them with full length just very corroded. i usually dont visually check the anode before recommending it, just recommend based on time. i guess theres a way to check it through milivolts too on some models to verify if it needs to be replaced. so going forward i only recommend on units that have enough ceiling and 7+ years no anode replacement
@@SuperComfee They come in a sectioned rod so it isn't a problem. 7 years is far too long. 3 to 4 years is ideal.
The rust color is the remnants of your Anode rod. They have an iron steel core covered with magnesium or aluminum. When the magnesium or aluminum is eaten off, it starts to rust the iron steel core. That's when it's time to change. You can usually tell by running a hot water faucet you don't use much. The water comes out rusty. I replace mine every 3 years. Regular inspection shows it's just about done after that amount of time for my situation. Water Heater going on 12 years old and works great. Getting ready to replace the rod again on it's 3 year anniversary next week. I usually do all the basic maintenance stuff on the house in Dec. Anode rods, drain water heater, smoke alarm batteries (had to actually replace the units all today - they have a 10 year life), furnace filters (those are 4 times a year), whole house water filter (3 times a year.). People say to do it in January, but I'm still recovering from New Years Eve that month.
Unless you live in a mobile home like most of us in the south and flori...duh. I put a new one in about 4 years ago with the first anode rods, that they call something else. Something self sacrificing rod, oops, I said it by accident. sacrificial anode. Lucky guess. Problem with mobile homes is they are so difficult to get to. But not as difficult as it was replacing it with the help of a neighbor and the expense. Thanks for that idea. If my back ever stops killing me I might check mine out after I unscrew the drywall cover off of it. Everything is so tight fitting in a mobile hope. Thanks for reminding me. 😁
Good advice, thank you. Both of you.
It takes you a month to recover from NYE? That’s frightening 😂
I salvaged a hot water heater out of an old apartment building 80 gallon gas the date of installation was written on it at over 12 years old and it was properly installed with electrolic couplers my brother was just rebuilding his house originally it had been divided into multiple suites 2 on each floor with a shared bathroom on each floor except the basement and the 2 suite downstairs had to share with the upper 2 he put a couple decent 2 bedrooms upstairs sacrificing a 3rd bedroom for a laundry room it had its own furnace and hot water heater but the basement was on his electric meter and gas meter so the large hot water heater was a necessity we figured if it lasted 5 more years he could then afford to replace it was over 35 years old when it finally sprung a leak and that was because he didn't maintain it properly it had been a good 10 years without being flushed out too much sentiment on the bottom and the heat builds up but I've had a lot of tanks last that long or longer what generally causes tank failure is built in obsolescence same as the old galvanized tanks as long as galvanized pipe was the norm it was steel pipe to steal tank same metal don't cause electrolysis no transfer of the softer metal to the harder then copper pipe was cheap and easy to use. no threading pipe just quick and easy solder joints and then the problem began dielectric couplings gradually became the norm as with any new construction changes it took a while before the plumber started to understand what electrolysis was and how it works but it soon became the norm to install them then a new idea came along put a anoid rod in the tank and dielectric couplings were theoretical not needed but it was a a trap if glass lined tanks are perfectly covered but they are not there are almost always pinholes and electrolysis takes the shortest route so if the pinhole is closer to the copper pipe that's where the metal will be removed from interesting enough with the old galvanized tanks a lag bolt with a washer could be used to plug the leak it still can be used but with the insulation and metal jackets it's almost impossible to find the leak in the side or top of the tank I once replaced a 180 gallon hot water heater over 2 grand for the tank and it lasted between 4 and 5 years before it started leaking just for curiosity I cut off the jacket jacket leak was about 4 inches down from the top just a pinhole if it had been just the insulation jacket I'd have put in a plug and used it for a secondary tank but it was a Rheem without the flue in the center of the tank instead it had a jacket that brought the heat up the outside of the tank and since I wasn't planning on fixing the tank I cut both jackets off even now I still salvage old hot water heater in most cases cases all that's needed wrong wrong is the dip tube has disintegrated cold water goes in and straight across to the hot water outlet so you get about 5 gallons of hot water and it's cold let it sit for a few minutes and you have another 5 gallons most plumber recommend you replace the tank for a 20$fix at this time my well is not working needs to be pulled out and a new Sandpoint put in 3 hundred dollars if I DIY 7 if I have it done and in7 years do it all over again so I took my collection of old water heaters 3 electric and one gas hooked them together and haul water we use about 2.50 worth of water a week so I can buy a lot of water for the price of a new Sandpoint and no hard water and no coal dust in the water no pluged risers no dead plants
Wow!
My home was new in 2008. I flushed my water heater once a year for first 3 years then the 3rd year the striker wouldn’t work so I had to call a maintenance man to come install a new one. He said from now on don’t turn off the gas. Just flush the water heater with the gas on. He said these strikers aren’t made to last long.
WOW!!! I installed my water heater maybe 7yrs ago...I'm flushing it this week!
Check out a video on replacing your anode rod too.
Good video. When I lived back up North we did regular water heater maintenance for 95 bucks. Process varies depending on tank types and add on’s but this is the bulk of it:
1. Turn the thermostat down to pilot
2. Hook up a good hose not a cheapy
3. Flush 3-5 gallons out typically
4. Once flushed drain tank down below relief valve confirming vacuum break worked properly.
5. Remove relief valve and inspect the valve from tank side. You will clearly see calcified build up if valve hasn’t been actuated. I would not actuate on a maintenance because if there is crud and you do, the homeowner doesn’t have a choice but to replace it, because it will surely leak after. I’d show them and educate them.
6. Inspect tank lining with camera and usually anode rod depending on tank style. Pull anode if necessary.
7. Check expansion tank psi vs home psi and adjust accordingly.
8. Re-fill tank bleeding air from a double handled sink if possible. Easiest to clear if they get clogged after. Don’t use showers or fancy fixtures first.
9. Set tank temp, allow to heat, test temp at the fixtures.
That'd be worth $100 to me.
@@user-lh6nu5md1c could you do me a favor and create a video of all of that? 😂 That’s a very thorough checklist of things to do!
I flush mine once a year. My last one lasted me 14 years, it really does help prolong the life of the unit. If you really wanna get deep into it, you can also change out the Anode Rod every 3 years.
Our original 40gal nat gas water heater lasted 14 years with hard water and zero maintenance before the shell started to leak. Never flushed, and anode rod never changed. Five years on the replacement with no maintenance. The only change made has been the addition of a water softener. I'm curious if the softener will shorten or extend the life of the tank.
@@JSATI According to the manual for my new water heater: soft water can be hard on it, being more acidic.
That calcium carbonate build-up essentially protects the tank from acids.
I moved into my house 15 years ago. The water heater was here before I moved in. Flushed the heater once about 3 years ago when the thermostat broke. It still works great. Shows that you don't have to flush it every year.
Two suggestions: 1. Put a pan an under your water heater. That'll make it easier to spot and trap a leak. 2. Place the heater on a wooden platform built above that concrete floor. When I replaced mine, it was leaking because it had rusted out at the bottom. A wooden platform should make that rusting less likely. It will also provide a bit of additional insulation at the bottom.
Bro you can’t put combustible material underneath the water heater….only for electric water heaters…..just put bricks underneath the water heater….
The gas heater should be on a platform above the floor for any unburned gas will stay low down. If you have a gas leak and the WH ignites you have serious problems. Electric WH can be directly on the ground. Check your plumbing codes in your local.
@@nygiantsfan84 bricks are not high enough. Platforms in a garage should to be 16" inches off the ground and it can be wood framed. As I mentioned check the local plumbing/building codes. In a basement the codes might be more stringent.
@@scottgorman7166lovely…my water heater that was installed a year is on the concrete 😩
I finally replaced my last water heater after 28 years without ever flushing it and it was still working fine. I hope my new one serves me as well.
I replaced my water heater 5 years ago and the one that was replaced was made by STATE and was installed in 1981. It had never been flushed, or anode replaced.
It might not have been working fine. My parents gas heater didn't leak, but it lost nearly all its capacity, and it couldn't be drained.
Brushing your teeth in the shower is bad for you.
1 it wastes water
2 this is the water you're using
It really depends on your water supply. If you have clean water without much in the way of hardness, particulate, metals etc, it can last ages. Where I grew up, my folks tank lasted 20 years. Where I am now, 5-7.
If your water does not contain high concentrations of dissolved minerals I suppose you don’t need to flush your water heater often. My water comes from an aquifer surrounded by limestone.
This is a good time to check your anode rod. I miss your handy man videos sir. Like when you throw these in from time to time. Thanks for the info.
Thanks man, that’s the plan! I want to start getting back into plumbing electrical and other more broad videos 🤘🏼🤘🏼
I have had my gas hot water heater since i bought my trailer in October 1998. Flushed it twice and the plasic drain valve started to leak so fixed that and never again. Its been over 20 years and still is going strong! Have hard water but purchased a water scrubber within 3 months on living in my trailer. Original hot water tank, washing machine, dish washer, refrigerator with ice maker, etc. I give all the ctedit to that Australian made water scrubber! Best $700 i jave ever spent in 1999 too!
What is a water scrubber? Google isn't giving me relevant info!
@asuhayda1
Google Care Free water conditioner. Distributor was in Arkansas but products made and used extensively in Australia. Hope that helps.
Been watching you forever. Will continue, your pretty darn smart. This is first 'notso'. 99.9% of Americans have a water heater with a plastic, angled spigot drain 0.0001" inch off the ground. Mine is in the basement. NO gravity can be used.
The existing water heater when I bought my house lasted 18 years with zero maintenance and I have no idea how many years the original owner had used it before me. One day (luckily) when I was at home I noticed some water coming from under the laundry room door…the hot water supply line fitting on the water heater was corroded and cracked open, spraying water like a broken water hydrant:)
The next water heater that I bought on Oct 2014 has still been working very well also with zero maintenance.
The drain valve is a couple of inches higher than the bottom of the tank. When you simply let the water run, most of the sediment still remains at the bottom and the few grams of sediment that comes out I don’t think can have any notable impact on the longevity of your water heater. Had I drained my first water heater every year, it wouldn’t have prevented the fitting from corroding anyway, I would just have wasted a ton of water.
It needs to be flushed, not just drained, to remove the sediment at the bottom. Don't forget to replace your anode rod every 3 to 4 years as well!
@@asuhayda1 Some folks need to learn the hard way. Given the multiple paragraphs this person wrote defending never doing maintenance, I suspect they are one of those people and that they don’t care about efficiency, capacity, or water quality impact.
Great idea. I’ve never done it - last replacement was due to a bad gas valve, but replaced since 12 yrs old. Draining, water wasn’t dirty, but I’ll experiment this summer. Tank was replaced 2021, same model you have. I’ll do gravity drain with open tub faucet since tanks fill from the bottom. Thx.
Another suggestion. I have done a Lot of these and occasionally the valve will be plugged. Push some Water into the outlet valve
to blow it out. Then it will usually flow. Sometimes on a really bad one you have to replace the valve if it leaks. Its a minor project.
Not minor if plastic drain valve breaks off in tank
I installed a new water heater in 2012 and on the advice of someone on the internet, I removed the aluminum anode and replaced it with a platinum wire and power supply. 11 years later still no crap comes out of the valve. The kit was $200+ back then though. YMMV
Can you explain more?
Search "powered anode rod for water heater" It appears titanium has replaced platinum making them way more affordable. @@BrucePappas
Thanks. I have had to change the heating element in an electric water heater where it had never been flushed and the so called "cal-rod" or sacrificial anode had completely disintegrated and stopped up the drain. You have to keep turning pressure back on the drain hose to dislodge the sediment then pressure on the tank until it clogs again, back and forth until it's out.
I just did mine a few days ago, changed anode rod, and cleaned up the fittings. One tank I have is a 9 year rated tank that has been working for 14 years. My other tank has a 6 year rating and is 10 years old. Flush once a year, or just open the drain valve a few times and get a blast of water out the bottom a few times a year. After a flush and refill, you will still get a bit of colored water at the faucets until the sediment settles back down.
I have a water heater in a seasonal property that gets drained every year and goes unused for about four months. It's getting close to 20 years old now.
Its a good idea to have a cap with you when you flush one, just in case you can't get the valve to close. Many times they won't close completely.
par with flushing is replacing the anode rod, every 2-3 years (maybe more). this greatly extends the life of a tank. I have two tanks that have lasted over 15 years with regular flushed and anode rod changed twice.
great job! did you say to run only the hot water (and y not cold or same time?), why did you shut pilot off? y not just keep it on and run cold water? thanks
I’ve had the same water heater for 18 years from Home Depot never flushed it once, still works perfectly and never have rust in my water.
You must have good water or a good filtration system
If you've NEVER flushed, you don't truly know if it's dirty. There's still sediment in your shower/kitchen water just very small amounts. Just because it's not visibly dirty doesn't mean the tank itself isn't a but dirty. Do your maintenance bro
@@mariogutierrez2965that invisible sediment gets you every time 😊
Word of advice, if you have a plastic drain valve on your water heater and its over 6 years old be prepared for it to never close up again and leak all over if you open it. Best to drain the heater down and replace the valve with a brass one to be able to do these flushes regularly. A lot of times those plastic valves will either not close fully or leak from behind. Never had a brass one leak from behind, and if it does leak a little you can cap them off easily.
Better approach to temperature is to use a thermometer at the faucet closest to the heater. Set the control valve so the water at that faucet is 120°F maximum, then mark that setting on the controller. This will protect from scalding injuries, and is still high enough to work well with dishwashers. The markings on most water heaters are not necessarily very accurate, it's best to use a real thermometer at the point of use.
Especially since you are never emptying the tank, I don't think you need to turn the gas to Off. Just pilot would be fine. That saves you all the unnecessary work of relighting it. [Even if you emptied it, I still Pilot mode should be sufficient.]
Yep
or leave the gas valve alone
My brother uses the drain output to wash his cars in the winter. It gets a mini flush every week or so for 3 months. Never has a buildup of junk in the bottom. No need to shut it off either.
Brilliant!!
After buying my home, My water heater was a rust bucket when I checked it. I put in a whole home water filter system and replaced the water heater shortly after. I flush it twice a year and honestly I probably don’t have to. It stays clean and I don’t have to buy bottled water to drink
Excellent idea on adjusting the temp. That will help reduce sediment as well. Sediment falls out more when the water temp is set high.
My A.O. Smith water heaters (2) were installed in 2005, that's 19 years as of 2024... I try to give them both a quick flush, 5 gallons or so weekly when I'm taking out my trash. I also swap out the anode rods every other year. If one tank fails at some point I'll switch them both out with the same make and model if possible. On a side note my Burnham series 2 boilers (2) were installed in 1991, they're both running strong and keeping the house nice and warm year after year. I'm kinda embarrassed to say that I've never done anything in 33 years to either of them. I keep them clean on the outside but I've never had either of the 2 serviced. Even the expansion tanks are still functioning after more than 3 decades. I'm knocking on wood at this very moment feeling fortunate with their longevity.
You should add a sediment trap on your gas line.
Yep
yeah, cause those do nothing. although they are code, i've never seen a spec of anything in the drip leg
I never found that to work worth a rat. Did it once, and two months later, banging and boiling from percolation. I drained the heater, unscrewed the tap from the drain pipe. I fired up my pressure washer, stuck the tip against the opening of the pipe and let it rip. Every few seconds, I'd shut it off and let the water drain out. Out came pounds of sand, grit, minerals and other particles. I repeated until nothing came out with the water. No more percolation sounds.
Which tip? Red one?
Prior to changing the anode in a 15 year old Bradford White propane heater, I drained 4 gallons of water. A minimal amount of sediment came out. I replaced the anode, but the original was actually in good shape, almost a waste of time.
The advice for flushing every 6 months isn't excessive if: 1) you live in an area with hard water (lots of lime in your water), and 2) you have an electric water heater. The elements in an electric will accumulate and slough-off a LOT of deposits. I've spent countless hours slowly scraping/scooping out deposits that accumulated all the way up to the bottom heating element in electric units.
Do this if you turn the water supply off to you hot water tank.
Looking forward to a
Full Maintenance video for Fire On Demand water heaters .
I know that you covered tanked water heaters, tankless water heaters (as I see that your about to cover) should be every 6 months. Just did mine and made a world of difference on the heat.
Great video! I've done this a few times to my own water heater but didn't know I could keep the water on. I've always thought it "safer" to turn the water off. Problem when I do that is it takes forever to drain...and I'm on level with my drain.
IF IT TAKES TO LONG TO DRAIN OPEN THE HOT AND COLD WATER SPIGOTS ON THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF YOUR HOUSE TO PURGE THE TRAPED AIR IN THE SYSTEM..
IT WILL DRAIN QUICKER!
Long time viewer now. I just wanted to let you know that I really think you are making amazing content! Thanks dad!
Thank you so much. These comments make my day and keep me going. 🙏🏻
I just had a brand new indirect tank (Bosch) put in. Guy suggested flushing 5 gal. every month. Then extend to two, or three, etc., if I don't find anything. We've been in this house, with the same tankless boiler (Burnham), for 39 years. Still going strong, although we occasionally need to replace the coil because we have hard water here. Given that this is our first indirect heater, I'm following that advice until I find sediment, then I'll back off.
Getting the anode rod out, now that is a PITA. I put at tray underneath mine last time.
OK, what you've flushed out of your water heater is most likely the magnesium from your original Anode Rod that has been doing it's job by sacrificing itself to protect your water heater for the last 6-7 years. If you haven't yet I'd replace that Anode Rod asap. You will be surprised how little of it is actually left, especially after 6-7 years...
I have a whole house filter and and a water softener before the heater. After reading about anodes and water softeners i replaced my anode with a electric power one.
HVAC Tech Here, when on Hot Water Tank flush call what I like to do is let the tank drain completely with the feeder valve closed, once empty, open & close the feeder valve in rapid successions over 30 secs to 1 minute, to allow the jet of city pressurized water ( 60 psi) to hit the bottom and disturb the sediment that is acting like ice over a lake, slowing down heat transfer.
then i open the feeder completely and do a 10-30 minute flush of straight water drained into a floor drain.
the sediment does not transfer heat as well as metal does. which is why when you place your hand on something metal on a cool day it will feel colder than it actually is. simply because it conducts heat(steals) much better than most material.
do not attempt to flush an electric hot water tank as the heating elements are enveloped in water and would be waste of time.
Changing your anode rod will help extend the life of your tank. Buy an aluminum one if you have hard water, most tanks come with a Magnesium anode.
Mine's almost 12 years old now, I've done "this" about every 6 months… It is a 12 year Kenmore model (probably not warrantied for that long, but rather its expected lifetime). Got it from Sears when the previous water heater started to leak at the top. Haven't actually filtered the water to see if it is discolored or anything… next time! (My "this" is turn off the pilot, turn off the water, open the various (hot water) faucets in the house, let it drain for about a half hour or so (until it stops), turn on the water for a while, let that drain out too. Then reverse the process and fire it back up.)
Hate to jinx it but it's been a great water heater, haven't done anything with anode rod(s). (I recall trying to remove one from earlier heater(s), but couldn't get it to budge (and didn't want to break anything)).
The one that we put in before this one on the other hand was a piece of junk and not installed properly (thus the leak at the top, two different metals). Also you could never rely on it 100% to give you hot water as sometimes it didn't seem to realize it needed to fire up, and you just got cold water. (GE... never again.) Also I remember when draining it there was always some kind of white goop that used to drain out as well. Plus also it had a noisy burner. Yuck.
And finally the first (original) one wasn't too bad, but may have been neglected as it had problems draining after a while. (Same brand as the manufacturer of the Kenmore model, which I think was A.O. Smith.) Ended up changing it out but in reality perhaps it just needed a really good flush probably more like detailed here than being replaced, though come to think its anode rode was probably pretty much gone too, if my recollection of what came out with the water when drained was any indication.
4:22 You have so much "residual water" in the hose because it is higher than the valve. As soon as you loosen the hose, the water drains back to the lowest point. The entire hose is full of water.
If you put a garden hose inline valve on the end and turn it off, it will keep a vacuum inside the hose, much like covering the end of a soda straw in a glass and lifting the straw. Then, you can drain it into your sump or a bucket.
yeah, it's called gravity 😊
For economic/green reasons you want to keep your water heater as cold as tolerable, less temp differential, less heat loss, but for health reasons you want to keep it above 120, 130-140 preferred, to prevent the growth of organisms in your water heater such as legionella especially if you aren't using water with residual sterilizing agents such as chlorine.
What should I do about my water heater when I get back next month? The gas has been turned off for 2 years, because I’ve not been there, due to various circumstances.
@@nadogrl heat it up enough to kill anything off and flush
People who claim to be green earthers take very long hot showers every morning and warm up their car for 10 minutes before driving to work.
For economic/green reasons, you shouldn’t wash your hands. For health reasons, you should.
@@MB-nm8tt😂😂😂 good one!!!
according to this old house if your anode rod not been taken out within 2 years the rod fuses to the tank and harder get out- also to remove Styrofoam this was after trying many things this was the easiest for me
on mine it a 1 1/16 socket to clean out the installation hole i think easiest way for me was to use a flat peanut butter knife score in saw motion deep as u can into the installation and then use a screw driver long needle nose pliers thin and break it all up then use shop vac with a 10" ryobi 10" table saw port adapter to collect the Styrofoam in wet dry shop vac
- to collect the installation till hole clean as you can get it- that worked pretty well- refill hole with garage installation board it about 10.00 a sheet something- i using it to insulate around doors in my old house then using panel over it its not too bad
Get your water tested for hardness. If you need a softener, get one. In your style of HWH, the calcium and magnesium will bake onto the bottom of your tank around where the heat source is. It will form a layer of “rock” and you have to heat the water through that layer. It really increases gas consumption. Electric heaters have the same result, as the elements get encrusted with the minerals and vastly increase electrical consumption. I’ve been a plumber for 45 years.
Well there are few details missing here... The water heater will heat the water and cause the minerals to clump up into larger chunks. Over time with the gas heater you will hear them bouncing around in the tank when the burner is on. It almost sounds like coins in the clothes dryer. The drain valve on thar heater is about a 3/8" port way too small for those chunks of sediment to leave the tank, you are only removing the small granular material and leaving the larger stuff behind. To avoid this flush and drain the tank yearly from installation, also replace that drain valve with a full port ball valve for better flow. To reduce the sediment buildup in the tank and other the milky residue left on other plumbing fixtures consider installing a water filtration system that does not use salt.
Just used your method and it worked great! Thanks for the tutorial ✌🏻
It is OK to simply turn the gas control to “Pilot” position when draining and flushing. After refilling the water heater then turn the gas control to “Heat”. Absolutely do NOT allow the water heater to fully burn gas and heat when NO water is in the water heater.
This was a great video with easy to follow instructions! Thank you so much-I just had to have 2 water heaters replaced due to leaking. I will put them on my calendar to flush them both next year and hopefully they will last a long time. 7:54
I had two heaters, both lasted 15+ years with zero maintenance. If I had to hire somebody to do what you suggest, might have lasted longer, also I'd have paid several times the cost of the replacement.
You should do a video on how to change drain valves next because many times they leak after use if the tank is older especially the cheap plastic ones.
should the water heater be turned off when doing this so you dont mess up the elements
You also may wish to change the sacrificial anode that is located within the heater. Accessible from the top of the heater from the outside.
Many comments suggest replacing the anode rod. It looks like you will be replacing your tank water heater with a tankless water heater. After doing so, would you consider removing the anode rod from your 7 year old tank water heater (without any maintenance) to show your viewers how much is left after six years. Some comments suggested replacing the annode every 2-3 years. Seeing what is left in your water heater after 7 years, may inform users how long an anode rod lasts before the rest of the tank starts rusting. BTW - what is the warranty on your current water heater tank?
My current heater is just out of warranty as it’s 7 years old. I will be doing a video soon on replacing the anode rode with a powered anode rod that has a 20 year warranty so stay tuned for that one!! Cheers
According to the plumber that we had work on our water heater, you do not have to turn the heater off when you flush the heater and only need to flush it once every year
Def'y change out the anode!! You should be doing that every 3-5 years (cost +/- $30) but you can get one now that will never need to be changed out (more expensive of course)
I do think this is probably beneficial. There are other videos on YT that debate it. (flush or don't flush) One video has a plumber saying NOT to do it. Seems like common sense to me to DO IT!
Not doing it gives plumbers more work
You just tie dyed your favorite shirt ;)
@thediyhvacguy you’re videos are terrifically helpful. Thanks for all you do for the viewers.
Thanks so much! 🙏🏻
Great video! Thank you! My sump pump and crock is just 5 feet away from my water heater. I was thinking of draining right into the crock. However, I'm concerned that the crud coming out of the water heater may clog up the sump pump and ruin it. Your thoughts?
thank you for your video im guessing thats why my water comes out foggy ? hard mineral water ?
How about a quart or two of Lyme a way.. discount it and let it sit over night I know it's a lot work then flush it in the morning yes you will have to drain some water out of it and put it in with a funnel in the hot side and it will fizz. With the right tools and valves and drains you can do it to a boiler coil.
A friend has a 32 yr old water heater that came with his place so no history on flushing. It had four inches of sediment and the drain was clogged.
I sucked out the sediment from the element opening with a shop vac and plastic hose. I might try keeping the cold water on and see if I can clear the drain.
Doesn't seem like a terrible amount of sediment to me, your water is pretty good.
I flushed mine once it was 2 years old about 20 years ago and got nothing so decided since in the past the old style valves are known for being troublesome water heater replacement once a problem occurs would be my solution.
I would bet that there is much more hard water sediment in the bottom of that water heater. The draining water can find a path through the sediment and drain valve while leaving much more sediment below the valve. This is a much bigger issue with gas water heaters since the burner is at the bottom. The heat has to get through what may be inches of sediment. On an electric water heater the heating elements are up higher. I suggest after draining the tank, remove the drain valve to take a look inside. On an electric water heater, you could remove the lower heating element to have a look. I use a shop vac with a smaller tube duct taped to the vacuum hose to vacuum out the sediment through the opening after removing the drain valve or heating element. I have routinely taken out a pound of deposits after a year or two since flushing. But, it depends on the mineral content of water in that area.
Really good video
Great video. How do you get rid of the water if you can’t run a hose to outside?
Don’t have a water heater…..but that was interesting! Thanks, bud!
2 1/2 years old and mine was loaded with what looked like rock salt,sand and a clear looking gel.
Forgot to check end job and check the anoid but, good job
So, my 4 inch main that heads out to the street does not have a good declination angle which causes accumulation and clogging every 11 years. So when draining the 2 waterheaters I do not turn off the gas but leave as is. All I do is connect the water hose to the bottom drainage of the waterheater and open it. The high pressure coming out i direct straight into my 4 inch main to simultaneously flush my main as i flush my water heater. When I feel the water temperature turn cold I know I have fully flushed the water heater. I do the same with the other water heater. Another thing is when the City stirs up the pipes and dirty water starts entering the waterpipes, I do not use the hot water faucet so that there is no intake of sediment into the tank.
You technically never drained the tank, After you pressurise up the water heater with the hose connected onto it, let it run for a minute then cut the water valve off so all of the water inside of the tank drains, Then once completely drained shut off the drain valve and re open up the cold inlet valve to refill up the water heater. You could do it once or twice for a really sufficient clean
More importantly... change that anode rod!. My air driven impact wouldn't break it loose, but the 90 buck 1/2" Bauer electric impact from Harbor Freight is fantastic. Heavy weight at 8+ pounds. Zip, zip and zoom it was out.
My next video will be replacing the anode rod 👍🏼 thanks for the comments everyone! 🍻
@@diyhvacguy not recommended to use an impact on a water heater. look into that prior to recommending it to an audience.
@@andrejstefanovskiWhy? I heard sometimes that's the only way to do it as a breaker bar is usually too tough or you don't have any room to turn it.
@@mae2759This is true. Is it recommended? Probably not. But some times it's literally the only option. The alternative is using a 4ft breaker bar and (A) unintentionally rotating the entire water heater and placing undue load on the pipes/lines above it. Or (B) discovering just how easy it is to round off the edges of the anode rod plug.
I'd say if the tank can't handle a couple hits from an impact, it's about due to be replaced anyway 😅
@@marks.8231 I suppose if you frame it as the 'only option' then yes. Statistically most water heaters never have their anode rods replaced during their lifetime.
If you're analyzing failure risks of breaking the glass/any welds vs not replacing the anode rod and allowing the tank to fail as it would without an anode rod, you're likely better off letting it fail without an anode rod.
Put another way, if a reasonable breaker bar won't break it loose, the heater is fairly aged as it is. Why take a substantive risk of breaking your heater today when leaving it without a functional anode rod could allow it to run for many years. Cost/Benefit analysis in this case is not in favor of doing 'whatever it takes,' in my/manufacturers'/experienced plumbers' opinions.
So you drained it all the way down, others show keeping the water on to purge out the old, and cycling in steps. You did the same but in one big purge?
Replace normal cheap plastic Valve with good ball valve and cap
Do you have to turn off the ignitor? since there is always water inside? or can you lower the heat to low? I am afraid if I turn it off it won't turn back on.
Just put it on pilot and leave the rest alone
Can you do a review of the Turbo Tank Cleaner!
Good to Know ! Thank you.
Are you going to replace the anode rod?
Just wondering where the water heater catch pan is.
What happens to the sediment that’s below the valve? It’s just going to remain, right?
I like that ergonomic garden hose connector. What is it? It doesn’t seem to be the same as the one linked in the description.
www.homedepot.com/p/Goodyear-MAXLite-5-8-in-x-50-ft-Premium-Duty-Rubber-Water-Hose-CGYTSGC58050/300520215
I believe it’s this one. Couldn’t find it on Amazon
how long i have to wait after turn off to pilot mode
I want to see you review a heat pump air to water system.
Does a self cleaning water heater have to be flushed ? also what happens if the valve won't shut off completely from just bein old and stuffed up with corrosion?
You should also replace the anode rod every 4-5 years or so. The only difference between a water heater with a 5 year warranty and a 20 year warranty is the 20 year has multiple anode rods.
What is a sediment filter and where is it placed?
What would be wrong with applying air to “ back flush “ into the drain valve ? That should stir up the sediment in the tank ?
Thanks that’s not bad I need to do mine
I usually rattle the water heater around a bit to knock off any sediment stuck to the sides and top. Don't over-do it though, that might cause a leak.
FYI. I turn off the breaker for my electric water heater before the last shower of the morning so I'm wasting less hot water. When the initial flush starts to run a bit less crunchy, I recommend pulsing the water supply to stir up more.
Tried using a long garden hose to span the basement and reach outside the garage door at other end and the sediment quickly clogged the hose. Yeah, more than 10 years since the install. Will try again in Spring and I'll use a high flow Y splitter and short hoses. One hose to drain the tank, a second hose (and a washer supply hose) to connect to utility tub faucet to backwash the drain valve to clear clogs.
so you did your flush while the water heater was under pressure ?
I also check my safety valve at this time, for proper function
That wouldn't have worked for me. My tank was 18 years old when I first flushed it. Nothing came out at first because it was plugged. Fortunately I had watched a video where a guy used a y adapter that had a tire valve stem on one side to inject air and free up the garbage around the tank outlet. It was 40 bucks to buy so I just made my own for a few dollars with a hose bib cap and then I drilled a hole in it and installed a tire valve stem. Once the valve was open I gave it a few shots of air and it started draining. Then it plugged up again and I gave it shots of air etc etc.
Check your anode rod also
My water heater was put in about 2 years ago. I want to flush it, but I heard about this tool called the Turbo tank cleaner. Have you heard about this tool, and do you think that it will do a better job to shake up all that settlement in the water heater tank. To get it out nice and clean. Or do you think it might do some damage.