Just a couple of code pointers. That outlet needs to be 15, not 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit. That also needs to be a dedicated (single) outlet or you will need a GFCI. (concrete floor = damp location) That pigtail connections needs to be OUTSIDE the cabinet so you don't void the UL listing of the appliance. (temp rating of internal wire) Last but not least, the NEC will call for a service switch at the unit even though a cord / plug qualifies as a disconnect. This will be under the headings of permanently installed appliances. Probably best to swap out that 2x4 electrical box for a 4x4 and do it all in one place. Store the excess pigtail behind the BX cable in a loop.
@@billy-go9kx which is why most HVAC guys don't have a full grip on the NEC, despite their license covering all the wiring near a unit. (but not into the breaker panel)
@@leeroth5604 Yes, you could but for a DIY that work box is getting a little crowded with the extra wires and restraints. It has no room for side entry with that device in place and the screws will be hitting when trying to secure that device. 4x4 box with a mud ring is the way to go.
I just did this to my furnace, which one of your past videos, gave me the idea. I bought an Anker back up supply for the job from Amazon. I wired mine a little different. I used a combo switch and outlet where the switch was. I made it so the switch controls the combo outlet, all in the same electrical box. Then, I ran my pigtail wire to the furnace. What I'm doing differently is, leaving the furnace plugged into the backup, all the time, and the back up is always plugged into the switched outlet. Been using this for weeks. For me, if the power goes out, and I'm away for some hours, it's all done automatically. I ran the furnace, solely on the backup after I did the install. It ran for 6 hours, perfectly, and I still had 75% of my battery left. The Anker model also has an app for my phone, so I can always check and see what's happening at home. Worked perfectly. Really happy I did this. Did not know about the bonding plug issue, but fortunately, mine works fine without it.
@@jmhescher I bought the Anker Solix C1000 (X). It works fantastic. I bought it from Amazon when they had their Prime Days thing going on. It was a little over 500 bucks, and when the power goes out, it will be worth every penny.
SUPER vid! Especially that "bonding plug" tip with the power station use. I had been using a gas powered "bonded neutral" genny to run my nat gas fired furnace via an EZ Generator Transfer Switch; all was well, since the circuitry was "bonded" to the main electrical panel. BUT--when I bought an ECOFLOW poer unit/geneator--furnace would not kick on. I called "Kevin" at EX Generator Switch who referred me to their TH-cam about this--just switched out two wires on their green EZ Generator Transfer Switch and it worked just fine! This what Dave, the DIY HVAC man here is showing us here--your portable power unit, be it ECOFLOW, Jackery, Bluetti, Flashfish...whatever--needs to have the neutral circuitry "matched" to run your furnace--be it a floating or bonded neutral. If you're unsure or don't want to handle the transfer switch route, just see what Dave does here! MAGNIFICENT! Thank you, Dave! Saved a bundle for a lot of folks! Stay warm and stay safe, Folks! Here in an Ohio Winter it's been minus -20*F--nothing to fool with. Make sure you give your job here a "trial run" BEFORE Old Man Winter arives. Cheers! Here's the YT on the transfer switch: th-cam.com/video/gVbUWCCt0D4/w-d-xo.html
But what happens when the power kicks back on and the generator is running. Wouldn't it be better to have a switch/plug combo. So you kill power to the furnace with the switch. And the plug is the only power coming into the furnace.
During my many power outages, i simply have a grounded extension cord in my basement next to the forced air heater and when power is needed, i unplug heater power from house outlet, plug into extension, go outside and start generator where extension cord in plugged into, warm and cozy again!!👏👏👏👏
I always tried to have someone turn the breaker on and off while I checked for power. That way I felt confident that the power was indeed off. There are rare times when those probs do not read power when it is actually on. Terry
Truthfully with all the different power sources available in different price ranges, every home should have an Interlock or Manual Transfer Switch installed. But what you're trying to do, just install an Interlock on your main control panel. It's much safer, legal and doesn't require any modifications to your furnace.
Another great video. Here in Texas countryside we don’t have gas so our furnace is all electric meaning 240VAC. So I would power that with a whole house backup or maybe a portable generator like the Anker Solix 3800 which provides 240VAC split phase. In reality I will likely have a critical needs panel until I can cover the whole house with battery backup but that is another story. It is nice to have options. Thanks again for your videos. I always learn something. All the best from north Texas!
Did this modification during the Texas Freeze of 2023, I found a previous video of yours. It was awesome to have some normal comfort during that outage. quick and easy, when grid power came back, unplugged from generator and plugged back into grid. I used a switched outlet so that I can still switch on and off if needed.
1,000 Watt inverter method is the one posted in a previous video is the one I want to go with. Pigtailed to my Chevy 2500HD Duramax. Also, I store my Deep Cycle RV batteries in my garage in the winter.
The nice thing about these Portable power stations (I have the EcoFlow Delta 2 Max) you can plug the Portable Power station into 120VAC source and leave the the furnace plugged into the Power station 24/7 as most of them incorporate a "Pass-through" feature where whatever is plugged into the Power station will be powered by the grid power while it is also keeping the Power stations battery charged. This way you do not have to get up in the middle of the night to plug the furnace into the power station as it automatically switches to battery when needed. I wish they had a feature for my RV's LP, which ALWAYS empties a tank between midnight and 5 AM and it is cold outside. LOL
@@Don_Kee you won’t need the neutral plug if you have it plugged in to your utility power. That side should be providing the bonded ground and neutral it is looking for.
This is pretty much the first thing I did after my contractor installed my gas furnace back in 2002. In between the wall receptacle and furnace, I also have a double-conversion UPS battery backup to condition the power to the electronics. Last thing I need is for a power surge to take out my high-tech furnace board or VFD motor. 22 years constant running and not a problem the whole time.
@@mrpush2532 My gas furnace blower draws 60W while heating (determined using a Kill-A-Watt meter). The UPS I have it connected to is a 1500VA model with a huge external battery with double that capacity. Theoretically, it could run my furnace for days if the blower only runs while the furnace is heating. However, I don't rely on that to power the furnace anymore because I have multiple tri-fuel generators and solar generators that I can connect to a manual transfer switch connected to my whole house. I still keep the UPS (and always will) so the furnace always receives perfectly clean power (double-conversion UPS) regardless of what's feeding it.
@@obewisethose batteries don’t last forever in those UPS’s. So unless you’ve replaced those sometime in the last 22 years, don’t plan on them lasting very long at all.
If the wire coming into the box is both 14 gauge and also fed from a 15 amp breaker then it doesn’t make sense to use the outlet shown which is for 20 amp service.
@@rupe53 it’s a simple issue. The 20 amp outlet allows you to plug in a 20 amp load device. That will trip the 15 amp breaker. You shouldn’t mislead a person to think the circuit supports 20 amps when it does not.
@@neilbrookins8428 and that's the reasoning behind the code not allowing a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. BTW, a 15 amp breaker will run overloaded for many minutes before tripping. The problem will eventually be failing insulation due to heat cycling if it gets used that way.
I knew this was something I wanted to do but did not realize how simple it was or the details. Thank you. I did not know about the bonding plug so I just ordered one. I think I will go with a switched outlet instead of the dual receptacle.
I watched the video to see what you were doing. When you first started talking about installing an outlet where the switch was, I thought you were going to run a Suicide Cord to it from a generator. I'm glad to see I was wrong.
I was planning on using a gas powered generator to power the furnace in the event of a power outage...is this not ok? Can you explain what you mean by a suicide cord and why this should be avoided. Can I even run this furnace using a gas powered generator?
@@treborterb A suicide cord has a male plug on both ends so you can plug it into an outlet on the generator and an outlet in the house to power everything. It's called a suicide cord because as soon as you plug it into the generator, it has full power running to the exposed prongs on the other end of the plug.
If you do use a suicide cord, ALWAYS connect the load end BEFORE the power end. I used them on the job for 18 years and never had a problem, but it must be used correctly.
@@Pablo453 I was thinking the same thing about connecting the load end before the power end, but didn't say anything. I didn't want to encourage anyone to use one. When companies need to put warning labels on products like do not use a hair dry in the shower, those people shouldn't use a suicide cord at all.
So brilliant. I've ordered a power bank and should have the rest of the materials to wire everything up. So simple and hopefully not necessary but better to be prepared in case.
Good advice if the power goes out during the Winter and you are home. It usually happens here during the hot weather which requires much more power needs. During a rain storm my basement is in danger of flooding. I may need 15 amps of power for the sump pumps alone and the power may be out for days. My solution is using an inverter attached to my truck battery with extension cords. Of course the best solution would be to have an automatic whole house generator set up. This is just another quickie inexpensive solution if you are home when it happens.
I know people hate me for always pointing this out. Anyways at 3:25. So you check the tester to see if the tester is working on a known live source, then check if what you are working on is off, BUT after seeing it is off you check the tester again to see if it did not break. It is more or less standard for how to test if something is dead. I have seen once the tester break after checking it worked then on what should of been dead and someone got shocked.
My first attempt at being able to supply critical items like my furnace and well pump (120v) was a manual transfer switch: I cut the power wires going to them and inserted male and female plugs inline. In the event of an emergency, I manually ran an extension cord from my generator to the basement and switched to it supplying the power. Never had to use it tho. Since then, I’ve added an inlet box for my generator and tied it to my breaker box with an interlock.
i wired mine direct with a 50ft extension cord then just turn the switch off when the power goes out,run the cord out to the generator.used 3xs with no problems
That’s a great way to get an essential backup. Our setup is with a 120V Reliance TF151W 15A Easy/Tran Furnace Transfer Switch. Hardwired in and attached to the furnace and UL listed and inspected/approved by county. Takes an extension cord outlet as input. Had it on the old furnace and was essential last winter when had ice storm, sub freezing temps, and 70 mph winds that took out power for an extended amount of time. Used a Ecoflow Delta 2 as a buffer between our Honda EU3000is Gen and the furnace and other sensitive electronics like routers, cable modem, tv, etc. Extended cold weather took out old furnace heat exchangers so Gen backup transferred to new furnace. First time we needed to run generator overnight in 15 years we had Gen.
Just fyi whenever your ecoflow is both providing power to devices while plugged into the utility it will be in passthrough mode. Meaning the devices are actually running on utility power. Meaning you really aren't getting a buffer from the generator like you think you are. These are not a true ups.
While I don't have a need for this where I live [building built by FDR's WPA in 1939 as a school two years before I was born; converted to residential use in the '60's}, as my gas wall heater's thermostat is a two stage affair between how cold I feel and how cold my round 12'' dia. Taylor outdoor thermometer in the living room tells me it is. The blower is a 5 bladed, 52" dia ceiling fan. So, unless the thermo-couple fails (always keep a spare handy) or the gas supply is interrupted, all I have to do is rotate the L-shaped [looks like an Allen key] lever to on, adjust as necessary and I'm in business. No electricity, no heater fan, but a couple of dancing girls with palm fronds and ostrich feathers will take care of that minor detail. My question to you is about the Bonding Plug: I trained as a Power Man [MOS 640] at Fort Gordon, GA., in 1959, did well enough (top 10% - a.k.a. head of my class) that they sent me back to where I'd taken basic, Fort Ord, CA., and put me in charge of the fort's generator pool which also entailed going TDY [Temporary Duty] to Camp Roberts by Paso Robles and the Hunter Liggett Military Reservation by King City. I don't remember learning about "Bonding Plugs", but a quick glance at any of the skeletal ones depicted tells me they're basically a three wire plug with the ground and neutral prongs connected with an insulated 14 or 12 gauge, 15 or 20 amp rated jumper fuse wire between neutral and ground. Correct? [Yes, if anyone ever says: "Here, hold this wire. Now, hold this other one" - DON'T DO IT!]
In san jose code means your external tankless is plugged into a gfci outlet.when it failed the gfci i just used an extension cord from garage to have hot water.
@@josephpadula2283 the part about a screw in fuse likely dates back to at least WWII and never got removed. (maybe even the 1920s) The reason was adding central heat to a home without adding an extra circuit to the fuse box. IOW, tying into an existing power feed in the basement and making your own branch line. There was actually a combination switch / fuse base made to fit a 2x4 box with a small flip-up cover for the fuse. (have one in my house) Kinda cute but short lived because many just installed a ceramic bulb fixture and landed the fuse there, next to the switch box. Screw in fuses have the same thread as a lightbulb.
As soon as you do that bonding, the furnace will be "hot" alright. As will anything else that has a "grounding" connector. So if you touch the furnace, or anything else metal, that is in contact, and you happen to become grounded, that voltage is going to go through you. It's not "The shortest" path to ground, it is "ANY" path to ground. Get a grounding rod and do it the right way. Also, if that circuit breaker for your furnace is not GFCI protected, you're now in code violation. It would be better off if people that put their furnace on a cord to just then plug it in to the nearest GFCI outlet and eliminate the other wiring all together. Also love Wago nuts, but like regular nuts, found it is best to wrap them in electrical tape too. A few instances I've experienced them working loose or a box stuffed with wires can snag a lever and work it open. Electrical tape solved the issue.
I just get out my gen and plug it in and start it up then flip 2 breakers and im functioning just like normal. But i kinda like that idea. If i owned i would look into😊
if you have a gas furnace, then look around it. You'll find a little box with a switch that says "auto"/"manual. When power goes, just push it to "manual," and your furnace will work, no control over the thermostat but heat in the home till power comes back. Much easier than playing with the system.
i had an inspector over to inspect a new sub-panel in my garage, he wouldn't pass me until I put a hand rail up along side the 3 steps up to the garage from the lower floor of my house. He also would't approve my panel unless I either removed or hardwired the two fluorescent lights I'd hung on my ceiling over where my car parks. This makes me wonder if it would be legal in my area to convert my boiler over to being a plugin boiler when it is permanently fixed appliance.
My furnace was hard wired. It didn't have a switch. I just opened up the furnace and the junction box inside and pulled the wires to the outside of the furnace. Installed a box and outlet on the end of the house wiring. Then, I added the pigtail and the connection of the pigtail to the furnace is in the junction box inside the furnace. I just did this today in advance of this evening's big windstorm. So, I shouldn't lose power now.
Quick question. What size power station is recommended. 2000/3000 watt? How do I recharge power station if power goes out. I assume my gas generator could charge it. Thanks
Very well could have but it might get a little crowded. Changing from a single gang box to a double gang with a single outlet cover would fix that as well.
I hate stranded wire. I use crimps and wago always now. Especially going back to troubleshoot someone else's work. Usually the stranded wire is the culprit with it falling out or a few strands making contact with a screw or marrete.
Hi when you install your own diy hvac system iv seen on other video it might not be a good idea to use stay brite 8 the acid from the flux will mix with the refrigerant and cause a compressor failure unless you flush out the line sets after your done using stay brite 8.
Great idea 💡💯💡 as Always 👍. 8 years ago when I installed a gas self igniter Heater on the Wall.... And did Convertion run on Natural gas on the GENERATOR. Everyone in my Family Complained about it and made a lot of Bad Comments. Why this and why that❓❓ 2-years Later, We we had Winter storm and ice and Power outage. Many people were moved to Hotel and some Old people were dead without electricity. Then everyone in my Family said to me " You are Smart guy and always prepared"... People in General they don't See and don't believe. In my mind I called them what a Clueless and Stupid people.
Just a warning for your viewers. There are battery powered thermostats that do NOT receive power from the furnace or any other source. In the case when house power is out, the thermostat will still have battery power. The problem is, in the separate case where the battery in the thermostat dies, the house will not have heat.
Right, but what are the odds of that? And it typically will say battery low on the t stat. What I really meant to say is the t stat will still CONTROL the furnace. It doesn’t need its own emergency power source. Thanks for clarifying for the viewers. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy I found your video helpful. Thanks. Not intending a conflict. Just wanted folks to know that their thermostat may be powered only by battery, not any other power source. Not related to the house power being out. Many people don't realize that their heat depends on AAA batteries. Yes, the thermostat screen will say battery out. But that doesn't help If you aren't home. For example, I used to be away more than I was home. When I bought the house it had one of those absurd battery powered thermostats. Twice my thermostat died when I was away. Both times I was saved by two different house guests who realized that the house was getting cold.
I keep a house log file and note all home maintenance items. I noted the time between getting battery low warnings on the old battery powered thermostat and just scheduled the next change on my phone calendar. The interval was 1 year if I remember correctly. Current thermostat is powered from the hvac system.
Probably best to use a single outlet (not duplex). Any "inspector", rightfully could point out that the second outlet invites someone to wrongfully plug something in to what is required to be a single use furnace circuit. A well made, old style, twisted together wires with a well tightened and taped wire nut IS THE BEST most reliable wire connection
It's actually common to have an outlet for a condensate pump with AC or a condensing furnace. The code violation will be a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. BTW, while a plug is ok by code as a disconnect, furnace code will still call for a switch. IOW, he probably needs both.
@@rupe53 Thank You. I have a 80% furnace and do not have any condensate pump/ condensing furnace experience. I Am of the opinion that it is too much "complicated efficiency" for stand alone reliability in these times. I too noticed the 20 amp outlet and 14 gauge cord and circuit wiring? so a switched outlet - single or duplex as indicated?
how about main for heater goes to a switch 1st then to an outlet a single one with a snap cover. You then have the furnace hooked to a 12 guage wired plug. That when its house power its plugged in to outlet. then when power out you flip switch unplug furnace and plug it into another source like your battery backup... why do this because sheet happens I dont like a breaker flipped its just stupid waiting to happen.. Oh Id also add a 120v small red or green bulb before switch to know when power is restored. and you can re attach the main power at furnace inside of the home. No woops did I flip the right breaker. No double powering no honey or some one else flipping breaker on.. we all make woops.. remembber flashlight always work in daylight.
You have like 4 different video's doing this proceedure. One has a green devise. What way is best? My switch is not close to my furnace. i think it has a round glass fuse in it? Can i di the same at that location or will i need to mount a electrical box at my furnace?
Furnace label should say, but as a rule of thumb, standard blower motors use 700-900 watts. A DC blower found on variable speed furnaces usually use less than 100 watts. A great reason to get a variable speed furnace.
Thanks for the video. So much better than the “widow makers of the past that I had to learn to make work. But I am much older so I should know more now. Never thought of doing this method. But I gotta figure out my situation with a gas mounted furnace that’s completely outside. Hmm. I shall find a video. It’s a weird house I got and with all the outside venting ish by looks. I know how the house was originally designed in the 60s and how they decided to do the design as a single home they prob ever built with what little money they had and never meant to sold until both died. Things like design from the foundation to to the roof in 70 years amazes me.
I’ve talked to countless inspectors and said they would pass it. On paper, no it’s not. But it’s easily reversible and in my opinion there is nothing unsafe about this. I’ve seen 40 year old furnaces set up like this
Inverters attached to a car usually produce "dirty power" -- NON-pure sine wave. Can this effect the sensitive control board or possibly other components????
You mean gfci? It does nothing to protect you from surges. You need to install a surge protector in your panel closest to the line side. Or..use a power surge protector bar on the outlet and plug your furnace into that.
Better off getting a generlink on the meter. Safer and with the correct generator will power some lights and appliances. Not to mention keeps everything safe and legal.
Interesting about the furnace needing bonded neutral. Also interesting that a portable power station isn't bonded. A little info on how to tell the difference would be helpful. Bonus: Making your own bonded plug is super easy.
Question: Would it be OK to use an additional jumper wire from the ground connection on the outlet to the ground connection that you made with wago's inside the furnace? That would solve the issue of needing to make a ground only suicide cable wouldn't it?
Just a couple of code pointers. That outlet needs to be 15, not 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit. That also needs to be a dedicated (single) outlet or you will need a GFCI. (concrete floor = damp location) That pigtail connections needs to be OUTSIDE the cabinet so you don't void the UL listing of the appliance. (temp rating of internal wire) Last but not least, the NEC will call for a service switch at the unit even though a cord / plug qualifies as a disconnect. This will be under the headings of permanently installed appliances. Probably best to swap out that 2x4 electrical box for a 4x4 and do it all in one place. Store the excess pigtail behind the BX cable in a loop.
You are 100% correct.
Yes, HVAC techs are not electricians.
@@billy-go9kx which is why most HVAC guys don't have a full grip on the NEC, despite their license covering all the wiring near a unit. (but not into the breaker panel)
You could use something like a Leviton T5225-T Combination switch & 5-15 receptacle, which would fit in a single box.
@@leeroth5604 Yes, you could but for a DIY that work box is getting a little crowded with the extra wires and restraints. It has no room for side entry with that device in place and the screws will be hitting when trying to secure that device. 4x4 box with a mud ring is the way to go.
Thanks for informing viewers about the Bonding Plug. I plan to do this for both my daughter's and my furnace.
I did this a few months ago based on your instructions. So nice to have a way to power my furnace during a power outage.
I just did this to my furnace, which one of your past videos, gave me the idea. I bought an Anker back up supply for the job from Amazon. I wired mine a little different. I used a combo switch and outlet where the switch was. I made it so the switch controls the combo outlet, all in the same electrical box. Then, I ran my pigtail wire to the furnace. What I'm doing differently is, leaving the furnace plugged into the backup, all the time, and the back up is always plugged into the switched outlet. Been using this for weeks. For me, if the power goes out, and I'm away for some hours, it's all done automatically. I ran the furnace, solely on the backup after I did the install. It ran for 6 hours, perfectly, and I still had 75% of my battery left. The Anker model also has an app for my phone, so I can always check and see what's happening at home. Worked perfectly. Really happy I did this. Did not know about the bonding plug issue, but fortunately, mine works fine without it.
Which Anker power station did you buy?
@@jmhescher I bought the Anker Solix C1000 (X). It works fantastic. I bought it from Amazon when they had their Prime Days thing going on. It was a little over 500 bucks, and when the power goes out, it will be worth every penny.
Same question as jmhescher
@@jmhescher Anker Solix C1000 (X)
@@walterbowen2430 Anker Solix C1000 (X)
I did this...one of the easiest jobs ever. I run a gas generator, so I hooked up a box outside. Works great.
SUPER vid! Especially that "bonding plug" tip with the power station use. I had been using a gas powered "bonded neutral" genny to run my nat gas fired furnace via an EZ Generator Transfer Switch; all was well, since the circuitry was "bonded" to the main electrical panel.
BUT--when I bought an ECOFLOW poer unit/geneator--furnace would not kick on. I called "Kevin" at EX Generator Switch who referred me to their TH-cam about this--just switched out two wires on their green EZ Generator Transfer Switch and it worked just fine!
This what Dave, the DIY HVAC man here is showing us here--your portable power unit, be it ECOFLOW, Jackery, Bluetti, Flashfish...whatever--needs to have the neutral circuitry "matched" to run your furnace--be it a floating or bonded neutral.
If you're unsure or don't want to handle the transfer switch route, just see what Dave does here! MAGNIFICENT! Thank you, Dave! Saved a bundle for a lot of folks!
Stay warm and stay safe, Folks! Here in an Ohio Winter it's been minus -20*F--nothing to fool with. Make sure you give your job here a "trial run" BEFORE Old Man Winter arives.
Cheers!
Here's the YT on the transfer switch:
th-cam.com/video/gVbUWCCt0D4/w-d-xo.html
Question: That is simply a standard plug. How does this connect the neutral to the ground?
But what happens when the power kicks back on and the generator is running. Wouldn't it be better to have a switch/plug combo. So you kill power to the furnace with the switch. And the plug is the only power coming into the furnace.
During my many power outages, i simply have a grounded extension cord in my basement next to the forced air heater and when power is needed, i unplug heater power from house outlet, plug into extension, go outside and start generator where extension cord in plugged into, warm and cozy again!!👏👏👏👏
Your furnace is not hard wired to your panel?
I always tried to have someone turn the breaker on and off while I checked for power. That way I felt confident that the power was indeed off. There are rare times when those probs do not read power when it is actually on.
Terry
Truthfully with all the different power sources available in different price ranges, every home should have an Interlock or Manual Transfer Switch installed. But what you're trying to do, just install an Interlock on your main control panel. It's much safer, legal and doesn't require any modifications to your furnace.
Another great video. Here in Texas countryside we don’t have gas so our furnace is all electric meaning 240VAC. So I would power that with a whole house backup or maybe a portable generator like the Anker Solix 3800 which provides 240VAC split phase. In reality I will likely have a critical needs panel until I can cover the whole house with battery backup but that is another story. It is nice to have options. Thanks again for your videos. I always learn something. All the best from north Texas!
Did this modification during the Texas Freeze of 2023, I found a previous video of yours. It was awesome to have some normal comfort during that outage. quick and easy, when grid power came back, unplugged from generator and plugged back into grid. I used a switched outlet so that I can still switch on and off if needed.
1,000 Watt inverter method is the one posted in a previous video is the one I want to go with. Pigtailed to my Chevy 2500HD Duramax. Also, I store my Deep Cycle RV batteries in my garage in the winter.
The nice thing about these Portable power stations (I have the EcoFlow Delta 2 Max) you can plug the Portable Power station into 120VAC source and leave the the furnace plugged into the Power station 24/7 as most of them incorporate a "Pass-through" feature where whatever is plugged into the Power station will be powered by the grid power while it is also keeping the Power stations battery charged. This way you do not have to get up in the middle of the night to plug the furnace into the power station as it automatically switches to battery when needed. I wish they had a feature for my RV's LP, which ALWAYS empties a tank between midnight and 5 AM and it is cold outside. LOL
Awesome! I’ll have to do a video on this! Thanks so much for the idea.
Great comment. I have an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max power station but was not aware of the pass through capability.
You do not want to leave your power station plugged into utility power while using the neutral ground plug. It could mess some things up.
@@Don_Kee you won’t need the neutral plug if you have it plugged in to your utility power. That side should be providing the bonded ground and neutral it is looking for.
This is pretty much the first thing I did after my contractor installed my gas furnace back in 2002. In between the wall receptacle and furnace, I also have a double-conversion UPS battery backup to condition the power to the electronics. Last thing I need is for a power surge to take out my high-tech furnace board or VFD motor. 22 years constant running and not a problem the whole time.
How long could that power bank possibly run the furnace for question mark?
@@mrpush2532 My gas furnace blower draws 60W while heating (determined using a Kill-A-Watt meter). The UPS I have it connected to is a 1500VA model with a huge external battery with double that capacity. Theoretically, it could run my furnace for days if the blower only runs while the furnace is heating. However, I don't rely on that to power the furnace anymore because I have multiple tri-fuel generators and solar generators that I can connect to a manual transfer switch connected to my whole house. I still keep the UPS (and always will) so the furnace always receives perfectly clean power (double-conversion UPS) regardless of what's feeding it.
@@obewisethose batteries don’t last forever in those UPS’s. So unless you’ve replaced those sometime in the last 22 years, don’t plan on them lasting very long at all.
I personally prefer the version you did with the switched outlet. With this one you can just unplug it but like having the switch.
most of the repair guys will prefer a switch as well.
If the wire coming into the box is both 14 gauge and also fed from a 15 amp breaker then it doesn’t make sense to use the outlet shown which is for 20 amp service.
why argue for the 1-2 bucks extra, other than it's not code to have a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit, which is usually is on a small furnace.
@@rupe53 it’s a simple issue. The 20 amp outlet allows you to plug in a 20 amp load device. That will trip the 15 amp breaker. You shouldn’t mislead a person to think the circuit supports 20 amps when it does not.
@@neilbrookins8428 and that's the reasoning behind the code not allowing a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. BTW, a 15 amp breaker will run overloaded for many minutes before tripping. The problem will eventually be failing insulation due to heat cycling if it gets used that way.
I have a few Ecoflows, and after watching this video I picked up a couple of bonding plugs. Tested and works! Thanks!
which molde ecoflows? I have a ecoflow delta 2 max but olny the fan on, the gas heat can't star
@@喬老爷 did you use a bonding plug?
@@喬老爷 Delta 2 Max is more than able to run the fan on a gas furnace. Ensure that you have a bonding plug as he mentions at the end.
I knew this was something I wanted to do but did not realize how simple it was or the details. Thank you. I did not know about the bonding plug so I just ordered one. I think I will go with a switched outlet instead of the dual receptacle.
I watched the video to see what you were doing. When you first started talking about installing an outlet where the switch was, I thought you were going to run a Suicide Cord to it from a generator. I'm glad to see I was wrong.
I was planning on using a gas powered generator to power the furnace in the event of a power outage...is this not ok? Can you explain what you mean by a suicide cord and why this should be avoided. Can I even run this furnace using a gas powered generator?
@@treborterb A suicide cord has a male plug on both ends so you can plug it into an outlet on the generator and an outlet in the house to power everything. It's called a suicide cord because as soon as you plug it into the generator, it has full power running to the exposed prongs on the other end of the plug.
@@treborterb
Yes you can run it on gas. Be sure to get the proper gauge cord to allow for the distance you need,
If you do use a suicide cord, ALWAYS connect the load end BEFORE the power end. I used them on the job for 18 years and never had a problem, but it must be used correctly.
@@Pablo453 I was thinking the same thing about connecting the load end before the power end, but didn't say anything. I didn't want to encourage anyone to use one. When companies need to put warning labels on products like do not use a hair dry in the shower, those people shouldn't use a suicide cord at all.
So brilliant. I've ordered a power bank and should have the rest of the materials to wire everything up. So simple and hopefully not necessary but better to be prepared in case.
Good advice if the power goes out during the Winter and you are home. It usually happens here during the hot weather which requires much more power needs.
During a rain storm my basement is in danger of flooding. I may need 15 amps of power for the sump pumps alone and the power may be out for days. My solution is using an inverter attached to my truck battery with extension cords. Of course the best solution would be to have an automatic whole house generator set up. This is just another quickie inexpensive solution if you are home when it happens.
I know people hate me for always pointing this out.
Anyways at 3:25. So you check the tester to see if the tester is working on a known live source, then check if what you are working on is off, BUT after seeing it is off you check the tester again to see if it did not break. It is more or less standard for how to test if something is dead. I have seen once the tester break after checking it worked then on what should of been dead and someone got shocked.
My first attempt at being able to supply critical items like my furnace and well pump (120v) was a manual transfer switch: I cut the power wires going to them and inserted male and female plugs inline. In the event of an emergency, I manually ran an extension cord from my generator to the basement and switched to it supplying the power. Never had to use it tho. Since then, I’ve added an inlet box for my generator and tied it to my breaker box with an interlock.
Just did mine today. Thank you so much
i wired mine direct with a 50ft extension cord then just turn the switch off when the power goes out,run the cord out to the generator.used 3xs with no problems
What's the capacity of the power generator you are using and should it be used as a dedicated furnace power source?
Thank you. Quite certain I can do that myself. The bonding plug part was new to me. I have the battery.
That’s a great way to get an essential backup. Our setup is with a 120V Reliance TF151W 15A Easy/Tran Furnace Transfer Switch. Hardwired in and attached to the furnace and UL listed and inspected/approved by county.
Takes an extension cord outlet as input. Had it on the old furnace and was essential last winter when had ice storm, sub freezing temps, and 70 mph winds that took out power for an extended amount of time. Used a Ecoflow Delta 2 as a buffer between our Honda EU3000is Gen and the furnace and other sensitive electronics like routers, cable modem, tv, etc.
Extended cold weather took out old furnace heat exchangers so Gen backup transferred to new furnace.
First time we needed to run generator overnight in 15 years we had Gen.
Just fyi whenever your ecoflow is both providing power to devices while plugged into the utility it will be in passthrough mode. Meaning the devices are actually running on utility power. Meaning you really aren't getting a buffer from the generator like you think you are. These are not a true ups.
Going to do this to mine at winter cleaning the furnace.i have a gas generator in garage I'm going to run an extension cord from.
While I don't have a need for this where I live [building built by FDR's WPA in 1939 as a school two years before I was born; converted to residential use in the '60's}, as my gas wall heater's thermostat is a two stage affair between how cold I feel and how cold my round 12'' dia. Taylor outdoor thermometer in the living room tells me it is. The blower is a 5 bladed, 52" dia ceiling fan. So, unless the thermo-couple fails (always keep a spare handy) or the gas supply is interrupted, all I have to do is rotate the L-shaped [looks like an Allen key] lever to on, adjust as necessary and I'm in business. No electricity, no heater fan, but a couple of dancing girls with palm fronds and ostrich feathers will take care of that minor detail.
My question to you is about the Bonding Plug: I trained as a Power Man [MOS 640] at Fort Gordon, GA., in 1959, did well enough (top 10% - a.k.a. head of my class) that they sent me back to where I'd taken basic, Fort Ord, CA., and put me in charge of the fort's generator pool which also entailed going TDY [Temporary Duty] to Camp Roberts by Paso Robles and the Hunter Liggett Military Reservation by King City. I don't remember learning about "Bonding Plugs", but a quick glance at any of the skeletal ones depicted tells me they're basically a three wire plug with the ground and neutral prongs connected with an insulated 14 or 12 gauge, 15 or 20 amp rated jumper fuse wire between neutral and ground. Correct?
[Yes, if anyone ever says: "Here, hold this wire. Now, hold this other one" - DON'T DO IT!]
I have the original heater from 1960's I can't afford a new heater. It works great! My concern would be can I do what you just claimed on the video?
In san jose code means your external tankless is plugged into a gfci outlet.when it failed the gfci i just used an extension cord from garage to have hot water.
I didn't know about the bonded system requirement. Thanks you!
Code in Denver says you must have a flip switch to cut power and a screw in fuse at furnace
that's actually a national code. Code also says you can't have a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit.
I have Never seen a screw in fuse at a furnace so it can not be a national rule !
@@josephpadula2283 the part about a screw in fuse likely dates back to at least WWII and never got removed. (maybe even the 1920s) The reason was adding central heat to a home without adding an extra circuit to the fuse box. IOW, tying into an existing power feed in the basement and making your own branch line. There was actually a combination switch / fuse base made to fit a 2x4 box with a small flip-up cover for the fuse. (have one in my house) Kinda cute but short lived because many just installed a ceramic bulb fixture and landed the fuse there, next to the switch box. Screw in fuses have the same thread as a lightbulb.
Great Video, but how long that expensive $1200 dji electric generator will last before it's out of juice ?
As far as the external double Receptacle , why not use one with an “ON/OFF” Switch?Keeps the convenience of the Furnace shut-off at the Furnace.
As soon as you do that bonding, the furnace will be "hot" alright. As will anything else that has a "grounding" connector. So if you touch the furnace, or anything else metal, that is in contact, and you happen to become grounded, that voltage is going to go through you. It's not "The shortest" path to ground, it is "ANY" path to ground. Get a grounding rod and do it the right way.
Also, if that circuit breaker for your furnace is not GFCI protected, you're now in code violation. It would be better off if people that put their furnace on a cord to just then plug it in to the nearest GFCI outlet and eliminate the other wiring all together.
Also love Wago nuts, but like regular nuts, found it is best to wrap them in electrical tape too. A few instances I've experienced them working loose or a box stuffed with wires can snag a lever and work it open. Electrical tape solved the issue.
I just get out my gen and plug it in and start it up then flip 2 breakers and im functioning just like normal. But i kinda like that idea. If i owned i would look into😊
if you have a gas furnace, then look around it. You'll find a little box with a switch that says "auto"/"manual. When power goes, just push it to "manual," and your furnace will work, no control over the thermostat but heat in the home till power comes back. Much easier than playing with the system.
And what runs the fan ?
i had an inspector over to inspect a new sub-panel in my garage, he wouldn't pass me until I put a hand rail up along side the 3 steps up to the garage from the lower floor of my house. He also would't approve my panel unless I either removed or hardwired the two fluorescent lights I'd hung on my ceiling over where my car parks. This makes me wonder if it would be legal in my area to convert my boiler over to being a plugin boiler when it is permanently fixed appliance.
My furnace was hard wired. It didn't have a switch. I just opened up the furnace and the junction box inside and pulled the wires to the outside of the furnace. Installed a box and outlet on the end of the house wiring. Then, I added the pigtail and the connection of the pigtail to the furnace is in the junction box inside the furnace. I just did this today in advance of this evening's big windstorm. So, I shouldn't lose power now.
Quick question. What size power station is recommended. 2000/3000 watt? How do I recharge power station if power goes out. I assume my gas generator could charge it. Thanks
Good idea But why didn’t you just use one of the knockouts on the SG box instead of drilling a hole in the furnace.
Very well could have but it might get a little crowded. Changing from a single gang box to a double gang with a single outlet cover would fix that as well.
I hate stranded wire. I use crimps and wago always now. Especially going back to troubleshoot someone else's work. Usually the stranded wire is the culprit with it falling out or a few strands making contact with a screw or marrete.
where's the link for the power station? Thanks for the video
Hola señor Dave!!! Excellent video and very educational …Saludos !!!👋😊👋
Hey Very nice tutorial
Your GFI wall outlet may have reverse polarity because your tester was chirping when you plugged it into the neutral slot on the plug.
It's a proximity sensor I'm thinking it's fine
Hi when you install your own diy hvac system iv seen on other video it might not be a good idea to use stay brite 8 the acid from the flux will mix with the refrigerant and cause a compressor failure unless you flush out the line sets after your done using stay brite 8.
My furnace has a lite switch and 2 outlets. Love your idea, I just need to do a little research on how to wire my set up.
That was great information. Thanks for sharing.
Great idea 💡💯💡 as Always 👍. 8 years ago when I installed a gas self igniter Heater on the Wall.... And did Convertion run on Natural gas on the GENERATOR. Everyone in my Family Complained about it and made a lot of Bad Comments. Why this and why that❓❓ 2-years Later, We we had Winter storm and ice and Power outage. Many people were moved to Hotel and some Old people were dead without electricity. Then everyone in my Family said to me " You are Smart guy and always prepared"... People in General they don't See and don't believe. In my mind I called them what a Clueless and Stupid people.
Just a warning for your viewers. There are battery powered thermostats that do NOT receive power from the furnace or any other source. In the case when house power is out, the thermostat will still have battery power. The problem is, in the separate case where the battery in the thermostat dies, the house will not have heat.
Right, but what are the odds of that? And it typically will say battery low on the t stat.
What I really meant to say is the t stat will still CONTROL the furnace. It doesn’t need its own emergency power source. Thanks for clarifying for the viewers.
Cheers
@@diyhvacguy I found your video helpful. Thanks. Not intending a conflict.
Just wanted folks to know that their thermostat may be powered only by battery, not any other power source. Not related to the house power being out.
Many people don't realize that their heat depends on AAA batteries.
Yes, the thermostat screen will say battery out. But that doesn't help If you aren't home. For example, I used to be away more than I was home. When I bought the house it had one of those absurd battery powered thermostats. Twice my thermostat died when I was away. Both times I was saved by two different house guests who realized that the house was getting cold.
I keep a house log file and note all home maintenance items. I noted the time between getting battery low warnings on the old battery powered thermostat and just scheduled the next change on my phone calendar. The interval was 1 year if I remember correctly. Current thermostat is powered from the hvac system.
THANK YOU so much 😊. So would we be correct in thinking we're good just keep an eye on the battery
Probably best to use a single outlet (not duplex). Any "inspector", rightfully could point out that the second outlet invites someone to wrongfully plug something in to what is required to be a single use furnace circuit. A well made, old style, twisted together wires with a well tightened and taped wire nut IS THE BEST most reliable wire connection
It's actually common to have an outlet for a condensate pump with AC or a condensing furnace. The code violation will be a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. BTW, while a plug is ok by code as a disconnect, furnace code will still call for a switch. IOW, he probably needs both.
@@rupe53 Thank You. I have a 80% furnace and do not have any condensate pump/ condensing furnace experience. I Am of the opinion that it is too much "complicated efficiency" for stand alone reliability in these times. I too noticed the 20 amp outlet and 14 gauge cord and circuit wiring?
so a switched outlet - single or duplex as indicated?
My oil furnace has been set up like that since it was installed works great
how about main for heater goes to a switch 1st then to an outlet a single one with a snap cover. You then have the furnace hooked to a 12 guage wired plug. That when its house power its plugged in to outlet. then when power out you flip switch unplug furnace and plug it into another source like your battery backup... why do this because sheet happens I dont like a breaker flipped its just stupid waiting to happen.. Oh Id also add a 120v small red or green bulb before switch to know when power is restored. and you can re attach the main power at furnace inside of the home. No woops did I flip the right breaker. No double powering no honey or some one else flipping breaker on.. we all make woops.. remembber flashlight always work in daylight.
Thanks for the tip, where did you get the generator power source from.? And how much
A good practice is to do the job right. If you're not lazy or sloppy. You don't need to tape it
Better practice is always have a back up, for that one time your life you mess up and someone can die because of it.
Very good video. Thanks for sharing. I've also watched your other videos about this and. Keep it up.
You have like 4 different video's doing this proceedure. One has a green devise. What way is best? My switch is not close to my furnace. i think it has a round glass fuse in it? Can i di the same at that location or will i need to mount a electrical box at my furnace?
Would this idea work with an electric heater/AC or it's only for gas operating system?
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
They will pull more watts. So as long as your battery/generator can provide enough power
It is verrey important , interesting , educational, GRACIAS BRO
Will that work on an oil burning furnace? I think they use a lot more power than gas. Furnace.
Thanks for the video. Where do we find and calculate the needed wattage for the furnace to correctly size the generator?
Furnace label should say, but as a rule of thumb, standard blower motors use 700-900 watts. A DC blower found on variable speed furnaces usually use less than 100 watts. A great reason to get a variable speed furnace.
Thanks for the video. So much better than the “widow makers of the past that I had to learn to make work. But I am much older so I should know more now. Never thought of doing this method. But I gotta figure out my situation with a gas mounted furnace that’s completely outside. Hmm. I shall find a video. It’s a weird house I got and with all the outside venting ish by looks. I know how the house was originally designed in the 60s and how they decided to do the design as a single home they prob ever built with what little money they had and never meant to sold until both died. Things like design from the foundation to to the roof in 70 years amazes me.
im wondering if thats all legal, just saying why all are hardwired!
I’ve talked to countless inspectors and said they would pass it. On paper, no it’s not. But it’s easily reversible and in my opinion there is nothing unsafe about this. I’ve seen 40 year old furnaces set up like this
@diyhvacguy first thanks for your answerd and what state are you in?
Inverters attached to a car usually produce "dirty power" -- NON-pure sine wave. Can this effect the sensitive control board or possibly other components????
Would it be wise to use a GCI to protect the furnace from power surges?
You mean gfci? It does nothing to protect you from surges. You need to install a surge protector in your panel closest to the line side. Or..use a power surge protector bar on the outlet and plug your furnace into that.
@@Weak_juan Yeah, the missing letter isn't working hal the time. gotta push it hard. I can't type urnace this time :(
Thanks. Learning.
Thank you for this very interesting, fabulous video that could save people's lives and is very simple to do (if you follow the directions above ).
Can you run an extension cord from outside gas generator and plug it into the pigtail, instead of the battery generator?
Correct
13:20 Why have all that excess cord to bundle up? Cut it shorter to begin with🤔.
Because it needs to be long enough to reach he power station lol
If that gas quick disconnect is indoors, that is not too code. Without a shut-off valve Upstream..
Thanks
COOP
...
Would I need a bonding plug for a solar inverter..... thanks for posting just what i needed.
We love winter ❄️ thanks another great how do video.
What if your furnace is electric? Does this still work?
Thank you.
What power station is that? How long can it run a furnace
Better off getting a generlink on the meter. Safer and with the correct generator will power some lights and appliances. Not to mention keeps everything safe and legal.
Nice job.
what about plugging in a UPS (Uninterrupted Power Supply) it would kick on immediately
When you plug the furnace into the ecoflow
How many hours does it hold?
Wow I will keep that in my data it great idea for. Emergency situation
God bless you for this good sir. Earned my sub
for a blower motor rated 1/3 hp, 115 V, 5.1 A, what size power station would be required?
Neat! Will this work with an oil furnace?
So what is the likelyhood the natural gas pump station will be down if the grid is down?
Less.
Now, is there a way to do this to the central air as well?
Interesting about the furnace needing bonded neutral. Also interesting that a portable power station isn't bonded. A little info on how to tell the difference would be helpful.
Bonus: Making your own bonded plug is super easy.
most of the control circuits are DC and use the cabinet as a ground. Yeah, it's screwball but reality.
Good video. However, for about the same amount of work you could install a generator interlock and power your furnace along with other curcuits.
My house has a boiler. Water baseboard heat. Will this work as well?
Thank you. Can I do the same for a gas boiler?
Yes if it’s 120v then absolutely
@diyhvacguy Thank you!
What brand power station? Can you provide any info on that unit?
Really good tip.
Question: Would it be OK to use an additional jumper wire from the ground connection on the outlet to the ground connection that you made with wago's inside the furnace? That would solve the issue of needing to make a ground only suicide cable wouldn't it?
what about a standard generator? do you still need a bonding plug?
I got a thermocouple mini volt. Only needs a flame..
Can I do this on a Trane heat pump pack?
Would this work the same way on an electric furnace?
Just put in a proper interlock connection at the panel and run a generator plug outside to plug the generator into