That’s the first thing I did after installing our HW heater. A real drain valve and I run a short hose cutoff to the sump. Once a month I open it a bit to drain the weirdness out then open it up and back down again to get the stuff that stirred up. I do have a sediment filter after the well tank but it’s a 50m filter for the coarse stuff and a scale blaster as well. Those have helped immensely reducing scale and sediment buildup. Anyone on a well knows you’re at war with hard water.
Most factory drain valves these days are plastic gate valves, not ball valves. Those have an even smaller opening and clog easily. The best advice is as said here, when you buy a new tank style water heater immediately swap out the factory drain valve with a full flow quarter turn ball valve.
A 3/4 x 3 inch or longer nipple and a 3/4 ball valve with a garden hose adapter also works. That brass valve you took off was better than the cheap plastic gate valves they usually have on them.
Just a couple of months ago a plumber here in Vegas quoted me $5,400 to replace my 75gal water heater and 48kg softener, so I decided to do it myself. Went with a $1,400 Rheem, this $35 valve, a $160 corro protect rod, and a $750 aquasure 64kg softener. The hardest part was getting Home Depot to deliver a water heater that wasn’t damaged during shipping, third time was the charm. Anyways, glad to see I did most of what the pros recommend!! I will be signing up for your HVAC videos and the patreon tech support service next spring when I tackle replacing one of my 18 year old York hvac gas systems. Working on my epa cert now and I started buying the tools already. Thank you for making these videos!!
I tried a Corro-Protect rod on my old water heater. It seemed sorta cheaply made. I never could get the top plastic where it threads into the stainless shaft to stop slow dripping. I kept tightening it a quarter of a turn per day until one day the plastic top broke off. Was a waste of $120 back then.
@@mountainousterrain1704 it was a long time ago. I think I found an email contact, sent them something and never heard back. But I was frustrated and had other things in life taking up my time and never followed back up. Some Home Depot associate convinced me in our area you didn't need an anode, and I just capped it off. Of course the tank started leaking 2 years later, but it was already over 20 years old so no big harm. If I had the sulphur smell problem I probably would have followed up better.
6:23 my anode rod was fairly easy to replace on my 15 year old water heater. Of course I tried the old wrench/cheater bar method at first... No Go. I used a Harbor Freight electric impact gun and 1-1/16" socket. Thanks for this drain valve upgrade video. 😊
Yep, I installed a 3/4” full port brass valve on my new gas heater 10 years ago. With some skill you can do it with the tank full and only spill a glug or two. Super easy.
I installed a new valve and it's awesome. I also replaced my anode rod and during the process. I completely emptied the tank and put a light down the anode rod opening to see what the hell was going on inside, and ended up flushing out everything and there was just about no rust. It's 2024 and the tank was installed in 2011 and still clean and going strong.
Glad you did this, and look at all that junk that’s coming out of there with the bigger valve. There’s no way you could ever do a complete flush with that factory set up.. Now that you have the bigger valve there to do flushes you just leave it on pilot leave all valves open hook the hose up and flush it for 15 minutes then shut the valve disconnect and cap Set temperature done. It’s also nice to use a pale and then you could use super hot water for cleaning too anytime you want.
MORE success, if the water is cooler, i slid a wire coat hanger I had straightened out through the valve to agitate what’s left in the tank and got twice as much as the first time around because it piles up near the back and some of it stays back there without coaxing. Also, if the tank is half drained, the splashing inside ( after turning the supply valve back on ) helps disturb the pile of sand debris at the bottom. Rancho Cucamonga, Ca had sand, and moderately hard water.
I do something similar but I use a full 3/4 valve with a 3/4 to hose barb straight through piece on the output side. Even the little angle and sizing down a little causes some backpressure and crud to get stuck. With a straight shot and full diameter I have never had a clog when flushing an old water heater out. Mostly been swapping out the cheap plastic ones that don't even open up as much as the one you pulled out, not to mention they are crappy gate valves and if a piece of junk gets caught you have a hard time even closing them back up.
I had the same issue with trying to remove my anode rod. I had no way to brace the water heater and it just wanted to turn when I used a long pry bar. The solution: use an impact wrench (like taking the lug nuts off a car.) The torque is focused on the center of the anode rod instead of off to the side of the tank. It comes out as easy as falling off a log.
I installed a whole house water filter, ahead of a water softener, and a CorroProtec anode rod in the heater. I expect it to last a LONG time! An impact wrench will get the old anode rod out. Even if you only use the impact wrench once for this job, it’s cheaper than paying a plumber and saves you from buying a new water heater for 15 or 20 years. Plus now you have an impact wrench!
Thank you for taking the time to teach myself , and countless others about this option. I have been building different hoses for shop vac that reaches in through the element housing openings and sucks out the grime. works great but an awful painful process!
I did this to one of my WH's in a home I sold in 2010. I'm so glad I did that... the problem I have with my existing WH is the drain is plastic and when I tried to change it when I was installing the unit, it would not budge and I did not want to break the valve and have to fight with removing the broken stem of the valve. the brass ball valve idea is so much better than what these WH;'s come with....
Great advice! Wish I had known this before my new water heater--it's a Rheem-- was installed less than two years ago. I believe that the ball valve linked to here. given its specific purpose, should have a safety mechanism to prevent it from being accidentally opened.
I just got an add on from scamazon that allows me to shoot a puff of air (with a bike pump so not too much pressure) into the drain to break up the clog. Next time I drain it, I will still put in a ball valve as it's still easier to use.
Saw the thumbnail and was reminded of the overflow/safety valve on our 25-yr old water heater. 2 weeks ago we used it for the first time as a way to temporarily relieve some pressure for a faucet replacement project (long story, but opening the other hot water faucets didn’t fully get the job done.) Project done and the valve began to leak. Bought a hose adapter and now the valve has a stupid garden hose attached so that it can leak into a nearby sink. And of course the garden hose isn’t rated for hot water under pressure …
Use the BRASS hose cap. Keep a couple on hand. They May be needed, should you need to replace the hose on the washing machine, Valves don’t always seal when they are off. (A tip) plus some spare garden hose washers, they harden in storage. These are Cheap insurance. Here in Texas, builders sometimes put water heaters in the attic. 🤷♂️
This is the first thing I do on any house I buy or whenever I replace a water heater. Between the small bore of the factory valves and the plastic valves that many manufacturers use, it seems that they're actually engineering these water heaters to fail.
Heating the water naturally causes buildup of limestone, depending on the hardness of the supply water, like the white stuff inside the tea kettle same principle.
I made the mistake of using a 12 point first and rounded it off so when I got the six point it wouldn’t grab enough 🤦🏻♂️ went with a tankless in the end anyways
@@hotpuppy1 Just spend a few bucks more and get an 18V cordless one, especially if you are already in an 18V cordless system (Ryobi, Milwaukee, Ridgid, etc). You'll enjoy using it a lot more.
Many years ago I had a water tank removed and it weighed a ton. Full of sediment and it was well known that the water was crap but it was a rental property on the army base 😮
Yep, my cousins was in the basement, installed during World War II, removing the old one took four guys to get it up the stairs! Drained Mostly. Had a cardboard outer jacket they called it: war emergency modifications. Not sure if you ever heard of vermiculite insulation… BIZARRE! Home was built in 1910.
I put a brick under the opposite side on the valve, yes, the water heater looks like the leaning tower of pisa, but ALL the sediment heads towards the valve.
Do you live in a seismic area? You got your water heater all buckled up like you're about to take a road trip with it. You may want to mention or make a video about putting in a whole-home filter upstream to catch a lot of the silt.
Yes Utah gets some quakes. In 2020 we had a 5.7 I’ve since upgraded to a tankless so I don’t have to worry about that anymore. Tankless video will be coming soon :) cheers
My dad does all things hydraulic and diesel. He brought me home a 1" watts WOG valve 600psi lol. he said use it for whatever. i reduced it down and got the nipples for my water heater. I just have to install it now. I hate those stock ones. They suck. i do mine bi monthly. I write it on the tank with a sharpie that i keep on the tank.
Will the water heater still flush like that if I run the hose up some concrete stairs at the Bilco doors? I have no floor drain, so I would have to go against gravity. Don't really want to use a pump because I already don't know what I'm doing, and my water looks milky because my house sat for 2 years. Calcium buildup around my sink is insane, too. Can't keep up. Thanks.
Sound like your entire house needs a flush. Head pressure in the tank will force some water out and up, but you'll lose that pressure as the tank drains down. Water transfer pumps run between 40 and 60 bucks on amazon. Installing a salt-water softener solved my calcium problem.
Do they come in different sizes? How do I figure the size for my unit. I have had to replace the pressure release valve every few years and need to know the size since there are several.
Are there any tricks to getting a plastic drain valve out, without destroying it? I can seem to remove the opening valve, with its drain hole, but the valve itself (without too much pressure yet) seems to be getting bunged up... My thought is to add a long pipe extension to my wrench, and then try to break it free...
My plastic drain valve started leaking after about 5 years, probably from using it when flushing tank. Replaced it myself with a heavy duty ball valve. Never buy a tank with a plastic valve or replace it with metal ball valve per video.
Hopefully this won’t double post as it didn’t work the first time. If u r still having trouble getting out the anode rod, buy an impact driver with a deep socket 1 and 1/16th inch. It was battery operated from Amazon and only $59! Came out in seconds with NO effort or even torque on my wrist.
The trick is to use an impact gun, and briefly tighten it before you try loosening it. Mine came right out. It was the factory one that was 10 years old. The same trick works on differential fill plugs on vehicles as well. pipe thread that you have to tighten first to break it loose then loosen it.
Hmm I thought the hot water heater flush valve is not at bottom of tank. So not fully flushing tank. Is that correct to leave the water on while draining/flushing the tank?
They put those tiny hole ones on so you can’t remove the sediment and then need to buy a new water heater….ka Ching money in their pockets. Thanks for the great tip👍
If you can figure out a way to get a stuck anode rod out it would be genius. My last one took two big guys holding it while I turned the bolt with a large socket and a three foot pipe slipped over the socket wrench handle. Any reason I couldn’t use a hammer drill or impact drill?
Wow in the world did you get all that water coming out? When I flush mine, It usually takes me so long because it somehow the flow is not as much as what I saw in yours?
The brass drain cock will get hot so a good idea to insulate over it for safety if you have kids that can access the area, and even to maintain the energy efficiency.
@@diyhvacguy I’m a retired electrician and trust me when I say surge arrestors help but are not the perfect answer. I’ve replaced them as a fried brick and then proceeded to repair electrical damage in the home. Do they help, yes they do but have their limitations. I have a large one on my loadcenter, a medium on my AC disconnect and numerous plugin ones throughout the home so I do believe in them but don’t put full faith in them either.
flushing won't help it after that long of time. flushing only works if you do it every 3 to 6 months from the time of new install. Gas water heaters will lose heating capability once a small layer of build up forms on the the bottom of the water heater where the gas heats it.
For the same reason they dont make them to last 30 years like they used to. My water heater is a rheem from 1993. Keep the anode rod changed every 2 years or so and they last a lot longer. And its a myth you need to drain a tank all the time. Any plumber that isnt trying to scam you will tell you draining it doesnt do anything to increase the lifespan.
@@diyhvacguy Yea but 'anyone' with kids prob won't see the issue with it. Somebody who will rush to install this will prob give little thought to "removing" the valve handle and locking it down... Double Cheers.
All water heaters should have a clean out plate thats like 4in x 4 in with 1in faucet tapped in the middle of it. No that would make it too easy to clean out and would extend the life of the water heater too long for the manufacturer.
The WH that costs 400 dollars extra will come from the factory with the 15 dollar ball valve. Or...you can add one to the 400 dollar cheaper WH and have the equivalent Water Heater for 385 dollars less. Maths
"FULL PORT" valve is what you want to buy. Not all valves are full port. You can take the bottom element out abd shop vac the stuff out. Unreal how much of that crap is in there.
Electric hot water heaters have cheapy junky plastic valves that you can't change out. I have tried. It's like they installed them with an epoxy glue so you can't change them out. Sabotage by the manufacturers.
Seems like the same practice as the auto and computer industry here - make equipment non-serviceable so it can increase waste and more so result in higher sales volumes for manufacturers to get you to buy a new one.
I think those are not up to code or legal. Water heater drains need to be child proof. This is why they don't have a handle that a child can open and scald themselves.
UNSAFE, Scald hazard. Any Kid (or stupid adult) can accidentally open that valve. That is a reason the original had a slot and NOT a handle. As for that cap, I bet in a few it will have been lost. Depending on the sediment, the may need to be even more frequent (I used 6 mos, because of calcium flakes). So Plus for Flushing. Plus for the Anode. But a negative for residential use of that valve. BTW EXPANSION TANK for any water heater behind a backflow preventer or pressure regulator. Heating incoming water expands and those device prevent it from going elsewhere so the tank keeps getting these 'breathing like' expansion / contractions without the air bladder to soak the excess up.
DANGEROUS if you have small children!!!!! There is a reason you need a tool to open the factory one. If i was a home inspector Id flag it. If can remove the handle portion and secure it, fine.
The full port valve I installed has a metal piece that keeps it locked until you lift it out of the way, making it virtually impossible to accidentally turn it. Plus I put a cap on it. And I believe the water that initially comes out of the drain at the bottom of the tank is quite a bit cooler than the water that comes out of the top to your taps. If you set the temp at 125F it also makes scalding unlikely.
I put this exact valve and replaced it before installing a 75gal rheem, got it for $35 bucks from Amazon. The red handle is removable. And for extra precaution, yes the cap can be tightened down and there you go. I also installed a powered anode rod and a new aquasure softener along with this valve just last March. Loving it so far, the light on the powered anode rod is annoyingly bright.
That’s the first thing I did after installing our HW heater. A real drain valve and I run a short hose cutoff to the sump. Once a month I open it a bit to drain the weirdness out then open it up and back down again to get the stuff that stirred up. I do have a sediment filter after the well tank but it’s a 50m filter for the coarse stuff and a scale blaster as well. Those have helped immensely reducing scale and sediment buildup. Anyone on a well knows you’re at war with hard water.
i'm on a well and i'm at war with soft water.. basically never any buildup, slowly leaching away at fittings (the lines are pex so they are safe)
Most factory drain valves these days are plastic gate valves, not ball valves. Those have an even smaller opening and clog easily. The best advice is as said here, when you buy a new tank style water heater immediately swap out the factory drain valve with a full flow quarter turn ball valve.
Will it void the warranty after this major surgery?
@@andyh4262 No
A 3/4 x 3 inch or longer nipple and a 3/4 ball valve with a garden hose adapter also works.
That brass valve you took off was better than the cheap plastic gate valves they usually have on them.
Just a couple of months ago a plumber here in Vegas quoted me $5,400 to replace my 75gal water heater and 48kg softener, so I decided to do it myself. Went with a $1,400 Rheem, this $35 valve, a $160 corro protect rod, and a $750 aquasure 64kg softener. The hardest part was getting Home Depot to deliver a water heater that wasn’t damaged during shipping, third time was the charm. Anyways, glad to see I did most of what the pros recommend!!
I will be signing up for your HVAC videos and the patreon tech support service next spring when I tackle replacing one of my 18 year old York hvac gas systems. Working on my epa cert now and I started buying the tools already. Thank you for making these videos!!
Thanks for the testimonial! That’s awesome
I tried a Corro-Protect rod on my old water heater. It seemed sorta cheaply made. I never could get the top plastic where it threads into the stainless shaft to stop slow dripping.
I kept tightening it a quarter of a turn per day until one day the plastic top broke off. Was a waste of $120 back then.
@@mountainousterrain1704 it was a long time ago. I think I found an email contact, sent them something and never heard back. But I was frustrated and had other things in life taking up my time and never followed back up.
Some Home Depot associate convinced me in our area you didn't need an anode, and I just capped it off. Of course the tank started leaking 2 years later, but it was already over 20 years old so no big harm. If I had the sulphur smell problem I probably would have followed up better.
Can i ask how old you are?
6:23 my anode rod was fairly easy to replace on my 15 year old water heater.
Of course I tried the old wrench/cheater bar method at first... No Go.
I used a Harbor Freight electric impact gun and 1-1/16" socket.
Thanks for this drain valve upgrade video. 😊
Yep, I installed a 3/4” full port brass valve on my new gas heater 10 years ago. With some skill you can do it with the tank full and only spill a glug or two. Super easy.
I installed a new valve and it's awesome. I also replaced my anode rod and during the process. I completely emptied the tank and put a light down the anode rod opening to see what the hell was going on inside, and ended up flushing out everything and there was just about no rust. It's 2024 and the tank was installed in 2011 and still clean and going strong.
You must have awesome soft water.
Glad you did this, and look at all that junk that’s coming out of there with the bigger valve. There’s no way you could ever do a complete flush with that factory set up..
Now that you have the bigger valve there to do flushes you just leave it on pilot leave all valves open hook the hose up and flush it for 15 minutes then shut the valve disconnect and cap Set temperature done.
It’s also nice to use a pale and then you could use super hot water for cleaning too anytime you want.
MORE success, if the water is cooler, i slid a wire coat hanger I had straightened out through the valve to agitate what’s left in the tank and got twice as much as the first time around because it piles up near the back and some of it stays back there without coaxing.
Also, if the tank is half drained, the splashing inside ( after turning the supply valve back on ) helps disturb the pile of sand debris at the bottom. Rancho Cucamonga, Ca had sand, and moderately hard water.
I added this years ago at my old house that had a 50Gal tank and got a long brush attachment (think a large pipe cleaner). Really makes a difference.
I do something similar but I use a full 3/4 valve with a 3/4 to hose barb straight through piece on the output side. Even the little angle and sizing down a little causes some backpressure and crud to get stuck. With a straight shot and full diameter I have never had a clog when flushing an old water heater out.
Mostly been swapping out the cheap plastic ones that don't even open up as much as the one you pulled out, not to mention they are crappy gate valves and if a piece of junk gets caught you have a hard time even closing them back up.
I had the same issue with trying to remove my anode rod. I had no way to brace the water heater and it just wanted to turn when I used a long pry bar. The solution: use an impact wrench (like taking the lug nuts off a car.) The torque is focused on the center of the anode rod instead of off to the side of the tank. It comes out as easy as falling off a log.
I installed a whole house water filter, ahead of a water softener, and a CorroProtec anode rod in the heater. I expect it to last a LONG time! An impact wrench will get the old anode rod out. Even if you only use the impact wrench once for this job, it’s cheaper than paying a plumber and saves you from buying a new water heater for 15 or 20 years. Plus now you have an impact wrench!
Thank you for taking the time to teach myself , and countless others about this option. I have been building different hoses for shop vac that reaches in through the element housing openings and sucks out the grime. works great but an awful painful process!
I did this to one of my WH's in a home I sold in 2010. I'm so glad I did that... the problem I have with my existing WH is the drain is plastic and when I tried to change it when I was installing the unit, it would not budge and I did not want to break the valve and have to fight with removing the broken stem of the valve. the brass ball valve idea is so much better than what these WH;'s come with....
Great advice! Wish I had known this before my new water heater--it's a Rheem-- was installed less than two years ago. I believe that the ball valve linked to here. given its specific purpose, should have a safety mechanism to prevent it from being accidentally opened.
I just got an add on from scamazon that allows me to shoot a puff of air (with a bike pump so not too much pressure) into the drain to break up the clog. Next time I drain it, I will still put in a ball valve as it's still easier to use.
Surprised that heater even came with a brass valve. Many don't anymore
Beware: some boiler drain valves are epoxied into the tank and cannot be removed. More common on lesser units. Be observant.
Keep the sacrificial rod changed as well. Good video
Your videos are so helpful and educational. I’ve learned a lot from them. Thanks for sharing. Keep them coming!!!
Thanks so much 🙏🏻
Saw the thumbnail and was reminded of the overflow/safety valve on our 25-yr old water heater. 2 weeks ago we used it for the first time as a way to temporarily relieve some pressure for a faucet replacement project (long story, but opening the other hot water faucets didn’t fully get the job done.)
Project done and the valve began to leak. Bought a hose adapter and now the valve has a stupid garden hose attached so that it can leak into a nearby sink.
And of course the garden hose isn’t rated for hot water under pressure …
Use the BRASS hose cap. Keep a couple on hand. They May be needed, should you need to replace the hose on the washing machine, Valves don’t always seal when they are off. (A tip) plus some spare garden hose washers, they harden in storage. These are Cheap insurance. Here in Texas, builders sometimes put water heaters in the attic. 🤷♂️
Use an impact wrench to remove the anode rod. Works great
Thank you for this handy tip, we have similar hot water heaters here in Australia. My new heater is a DUX a quality Australian made HWS 👍 Au
This is the first thing I do on any house I buy or whenever I replace a water heater. Between the small bore of the factory valves and the plastic valves that many manufacturers use, it seems that they're actually engineering these water heaters to fail.
Thanks for the tip.
Nice. Will have to make this change on mine when I flush it next.
OR, get a sedimemt filter prior to the water heater if you have access to the plumbing.
Heating the water naturally causes buildup of limestone, depending on the hardness of the supply water, like the white stuff inside the tea kettle same principle.
as far the anode rod they loctite those in. i used a six point socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 4 foot pipe off a floor jack to loosen mine.
I made the mistake of using a 12 point first and rounded it off so when I got the six point it wouldn’t grab enough 🤦🏻♂️ went with a tankless in the end anyways
I tried this method but the whole water heater would turn even with someone holding the tank, so I just gave up.
@@TuanPham-mc8bi If your water heater has earthquake straps it makes a its a lot easier as it will make it not want to spin
@@TuanPham-mc8bi Electric impact wrench>>less than $100 AND you can use it to remove your lug nuts when rotating tires.
@@hotpuppy1 Just spend a few bucks more and get an 18V cordless one, especially if you are already in an 18V cordless system (Ryobi, Milwaukee, Ridgid, etc). You'll enjoy using it a lot more.
Many years ago I had a water tank removed and it weighed a ton. Full of sediment and it was well known that the water was crap but it was a rental property on the army base 😮
Yep, my cousins was in the basement, installed during World War II, removing the old one took four guys to get it up the stairs! Drained
Mostly. Had a cardboard outer jacket they called it: war emergency modifications.
Not sure if you ever heard of vermiculite insulation… BIZARRE! Home was built in 1910.
I hope I am not the only womean who watched and scanned all the commnts for addtional tips. Thank you.
Thank you for all your shared knowledge/information
At least the original valve is brass unlike the plastic junk valve that came with my Rheem water heater.
If it's the gray round one, swap it out ASAP because it'll eventually start leaking. The new tanks come with brass now due to all the warranty issues
I put a brick under the opposite side on the valve, yes, the water heater looks like the leaning tower of pisa, but ALL the sediment heads towards the valve.
id be curious to know if the electric ones really works
There you go thinking again! 😉
Nice tip thanks 👍
Do you live in a seismic area? You got your water heater all buckled up like you're about to take a road trip with it.
You may want to mention or make a video about putting in a whole-home filter upstream to catch a lot of the silt.
Yes Utah gets some quakes. In 2020 we had a 5.7 I’ve since upgraded to a tankless so I don’t have to worry about that anymore. Tankless video will be coming soon :) cheers
Just so I understand, it's a 3/4" fitting for the threaded part that screws into the water heater? And is that a pretty standard O.D. for US tanks?
Yes standard size
Is that new valve 3/4 for both male and female ends (garden hose type 3/4)?
My dad does all things hydraulic and diesel. He brought me home a 1" watts WOG valve 600psi lol. he said use it for whatever. i reduced it down and got the nipples for my water heater. I just have to install it now. I hate those stock ones. They suck.
i do mine bi monthly. I write it on the tank with a sharpie that i keep on the tank.
Will the water heater still flush like that if I run the hose up some concrete stairs at the Bilco doors? I have no floor drain, so I would have to go against gravity. Don't really want to use a pump because I already don't know what I'm doing, and my water looks milky because my house sat for 2 years. Calcium buildup around my sink is insane, too. Can't keep up. Thanks.
Sound like your entire house needs a flush. Head pressure in the tank will force some water out and up, but you'll lose that pressure as the tank drains down. Water transfer pumps run between 40 and 60 bucks on amazon. Installing a salt-water softener solved my calcium problem.
Close the valve slowly to prevent a water hammer.
Great tips
Do they come in different sizes? How do I figure the size for my unit. I have had to replace the pressure release valve every few years and need to know the size since there are several.
My electric water heater have a plastic drain valve too close to the ground. How would you install something like that? Thank you.
Thanks
Are there any tricks to getting a plastic drain valve out, without destroying it?
I can seem to remove the opening valve, with its drain hole, but the valve itself
(without too much pressure yet) seems to be getting bunged up...
My thought is to add a long pipe extension to my wrench, and then try to break it free...
Again, some are not removable, epoxied in place. Craftmaster did this, they make tanks using different names.
Good stuff.
My plastic drain valve started leaking after about 5 years, probably from using it when flushing tank. Replaced it myself with a heavy duty ball valve. Never buy a tank with a plastic valve or replace it with metal ball valve per video.
Hopefully this won’t double post as it didn’t work the first time. If u r still having trouble getting out the anode rod, buy an impact driver with a deep socket 1 and 1/16th inch. It was battery operated from Amazon and only $59! Came out in seconds with NO effort or even torque on my wrist.
The trick is to use an impact gun, and briefly tighten it before you try loosening it. Mine came right out. It was the factory one that was 10 years old. The same trick works on differential fill plugs on vehicles as well. pipe thread that you have to tighten first to break it loose then loosen it.
Agree!
That's exactly what I did mine was plastic and it was leaking installed a quarter turn ball valve
My drain valve on the electric water heater is plastic. With my luck it would break when trying to remove.
I thought you were going to post a video changing the anode rod? I don't see it.
Good stuff!
Hmm I thought the hot water heater flush valve is not at bottom of tank. So not fully flushing tank. Is that correct to leave the water on while draining/flushing the tank?
What size is the valve you installed? Please
Amazon says valve is not available.
Is this a 3/4” fitting?
They put those tiny hole ones on so you can’t remove the sediment and then need to buy a new water heater….ka Ching money in their pockets. Thanks for the great tip👍
Not all, newer AO smith ones i have seen (a year old) were removable.
If you can figure out a way to get a stuck anode rod out it would be genius. My last one took two big guys holding it while I turned the bolt with a large socket and a three foot pipe slipped over the socket wrench handle. Any reason I couldn’t use a hammer drill or impact drill?
Use a hammer drill to get it out. Use a torque wrench to put it in.
Wow in the world did you get all that water coming out? When I flush mine, It usually takes me so long because it somehow the flow is not as much as what I saw in yours?
Check the supply pressure. Normal flush is under full pressure. Let it cool down some.
Mine's freakin' plastic and appears to not be removable ☹ I'm afraid to even touch it
The brass drain cock will get hot so a good idea to insulate over it for safety if you have kids that can access the area, and even to maintain the energy efficiency.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for your support on the channel!! Cheers brother
when should you change rod how many years in
I’ve heard based on how hard your water is that 5-7 years is recommended.
I replace mine every 3 to 4 years and do a mini flush (2 to 3 gallons) every month or two.
Why did you put an apostrophe on heaters?
Because I didn’t pay attention in grammar class 🤣
That is no longer sold on amazon.
What is wrong with you? Do you really want them to make people's life easy?
You are doing a great job my friend.✌
Regrets. Amazon did not accept your discount code. None-the-less, I appreciate your time and effort in creating this video. Many thanks.
Codes didn’t work for me either
One power surge or nearby lightning strike could easily destroy the powered anode rod. How do you know if it’s working or not.
It has an led, so you can easily check it from time to time
And if you have a whole home surge protector then it wouldn’t be an issue
@@diyhvacguy I’m a retired electrician and trust me when I say surge arrestors help but are not the perfect answer. I’ve replaced them as a fried brick and then proceeded to repair electrical damage in the home. Do they help, yes they do but have their limitations. I have a large one on my loadcenter, a medium on my AC disconnect and numerous plugin ones throughout the home so I do believe in them but don’t put full faith in them either.
no drip leg on gas line??
The only reason I can think of is it being a safety concern, gotta keep stupid people and kids from scalding themselves.
I personally would pass on the Made in China product that is recommended in this video.
I bought the Freedom Flow which is Made in Italy.
Where is you gas drip leg on the gas line ???
You need a water softener
I know why they don't put those valves on the lawyers said it was too dangerous having a valve kids could come by and open by hand.
Why not, just remove the valve handle so kids can’t open it unintentionally. Of course provide the handle to the customer to flush.
Should a water heater still be flushed even if it's gone 5-10 years without being flushed?
flushing won't help it after that long of time. flushing only works if you do it every 3 to 6 months from the time of new install. Gas water heaters will lose heating capability once a small layer of build up forms on the the bottom of the water heater where the gas heats it.
i wonder why ??
Why? Because they would sell fewer water heaters. They make money from selling water heaters, not from making them easier to service.
For the same reason they dont make them to last 30 years like they used to. My water heater is a rheem from 1993. Keep the anode rod changed every 2 years or so and they last a lot longer. And its a myth you need to drain a tank all the time. Any plumber that isnt trying to scam you will tell you draining it doesnt do anything to increase the lifespan.
Nice idea and concept. Now, take a curious child, who happens to see that lever and starts farting around with it.....yea, you get the picture.
Anyone with kids could crank the cap down and remove the valve that’s held on with a single 3/8 nut. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy Yea but 'anyone' with kids prob won't see the issue with it. Somebody who will rush to install this will prob give little thought to "removing" the valve handle and locking it down... Double Cheers.
All water heaters should have a clean out plate thats like 4in x 4 in with 1in faucet tapped in the middle of it. No that would make it too easy to clean out and would extend the life of the water heater too long for the manufacturer.
The WH that costs 400 dollars extra will come from the factory with the 15 dollar ball valve. Or...you can add one to the 400 dollar cheaper WH and have the equivalent Water Heater for 385 dollars less. Maths
Simple: So techs can charge for replacement.
There’s a reason as to why manufacturers don’t put handles on the spigot. Kids or adults with little common sense are able to open it.
It has a cap, crank it down. And if you still don’t feel safe, take the handle off. It’s one nut holding it in place.
"FULL PORT" valve is what you want to buy. Not all valves are full port.
You can take the bottom element out abd shop vac the stuff out. Unreal how much of that crap is in there.
What blows my mind is even COMMERCIAL water heaters come with these useless micro valves.
Electric hot water heaters have cheapy junky plastic valves that you can't change out. I have tried. It's like they installed them with an epoxy glue so you can't change them out. Sabotage by the manufacturers.
If it's been a few years they get stuck. If you turn too hard it'll break off and you're in tough shape. Best to leave it alone at this point.
@@ScubaCat3 It was new can plastic is plastic. They are glued in. They won't come out from the factory new.
Seems like the same practice as the auto and computer industry here - make equipment non-serviceable so it can increase waste and more so result in higher sales volumes for manufacturers to get you to buy a new one.
Because small children and unknowing people could easily scald themselves very easily.
I think those are not up to code or legal. Water heater drains need to be child proof. This is why they don't have a handle that a child can open and scald themselves.
UNSAFE, Scald hazard. Any Kid (or stupid adult) can accidentally open that valve. That is a reason the original had a slot and NOT a handle. As for that cap, I bet in a few it will have been lost. Depending on the sediment, the may need to be even more frequent (I used 6 mos, because of calcium flakes).
So Plus for Flushing. Plus for the Anode. But a negative for residential use of that valve.
BTW EXPANSION TANK for any water heater behind a backflow preventer or pressure regulator. Heating incoming water expands and those device prevent it from going elsewhere so the tank keeps getting these 'breathing like' expansion / contractions without the air bladder to soak the excess up.
The handle can be removed if that was a concern. But you could also just tighten the cap with a wrench so no one can take it off unintentionally
That gas line looks terrible
It’s temporary. I was keeping it going until my tankless was finished
They use the CHEAPEST valve they can to make more money period!
Probably so curious children don't scald themselves. Just sayin'!
DANGEROUS if you have small children!!!!! There is a reason you need a tool to open the factory one. If i was a home inspector Id flag it. If can remove the handle portion and secure it, fine.
Crank the cap down so it can’t be taken off by a child 🤷🏻♂️
I bought the type that requires a big flat screwdriver so it’s essentially tamper proof. But definitely a good point.
The full port valve I installed has a metal piece that keeps it locked until you lift it out of the way, making it virtually impossible to accidentally turn it. Plus I put a cap on it. And I believe the water that initially comes out of the drain at the bottom of the tank is quite a bit cooler than the water that comes out of the top to your taps. If you set the temp at 125F it also makes scalding unlikely.
If you watch the entire vid you'll see at 5:52 he installed a cap.
I put this exact valve and replaced it before installing a 75gal rheem, got it for $35 bucks from Amazon. The red handle is removable. And for extra precaution, yes the cap can be tightened down and there you go. I also installed a powered anode rod and a new aquasure softener along with this valve just last March. Loving it so far, the light on the powered anode rod is annoyingly bright.
You didn't even attempt to answer the question in the title of your video.
It’s pretty evident in the comments. Money. Most of the new systems come with garbage plastic valves
Bottom line is always $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$