Mistake #6 Forgetting to use the cheap filter in the summer and your AC coils freeze over forming a block of ice in the duct. Seriously. I was told by the HVAC guy that the good filters restrict air flow too much so that condensation was forming on my AC coils in the duct and were freezing over. I am supposed to use the cheap filters in the summer to avoid this. That is what I do and I have never had an issue since.
As a 30 year HVAC service tech the best thing to clean the air in your house is a good vacuum and use it at least once a week. Every thing he said I stand behind as well good job.
People dont seem to understand that your HVAC unit is not an air filter. All those expensive filters are a waste. A stand alone air filter would work far better and be alot cheaper in the long run. I got one in my room. Sleep like a baby with it.
I change my filter every 30 days in winter. In the summer they don't get dirty as quick running air conditioner. I just turn my thermostat down and wait until unit shuts off and in a couple of minutes i change out the filter. I've never shut the main power off to do it
We live at a high traffic street and the usual SW winds blow road dust at the house so the filter gets dirty more often than in the winter when using the AC . We have had two very mild winters so the furnace runs less and no need to change the filter as much . I use both MV6 and the 'angel hair' .
This is what i thought, I had never turned the furance off but rather just turned off the thermostat waited for the unit to stop and change the filter. I thought as long as the blower was not on it was fine. thanks for confirming.
I have a washable filter that I have had for 15 years. Best filter that I have ever owned. It gets washed once every month. No wonder you can’t buy this filter anymore. It lasts forever! Great video. Thanks.
Had mine for 18 years and it works great….Cost me an extra $50 when they installed the furnace but the math says I’m waaaaaaaaay ahead on that added expense.
You can say that again scoutmaster33. I think my filter was about $25.00. How much money have I saved over 15 years and counting. Also, with a washed and clean filter, my furnace has been going strong for 30 years. I really do believe that your furnace does not have to work as hard with a clean filter.
Same here. Just do one thing: disassemble your washable filter from time to time and wash every layer separately. Just remember to assemble it tge way it was before. 😊
Washable is never as good as a pleated filter. Its kinda like using a fish net to june bugs. more dust build inside the furnace (on the fan and the ac coil) and add more layers of dust on all your furniture in the house.
that's why 20 years ago I bought electrostatic washable filters for my furnace plus the two air handler locations as we have a two zone system. I use hose to wash them twice per year and they've worked perfectly and I haven't had any problems or bought new filters since.
I hope the EAC works well for you. However we had an EAC and it occasionally would produce ozone to the point where it was irritating. I eventually pitched the electric grids in the trash and replaced them with a single 4” thick disposable filter. In my small house one of those big filters lasts a whole year.
Mr. Carpenter, I'm so glad you made this video and that I came across it!!! I rent a home, didn't know anything about a furnace and the landlord doesn't do anything as far as routine maintenance...will be getting new filters TODAY! and will keep to a schedule of replacement...thank you...
🚨 I’ve cleaned over 15,000 furnaces. Trust me NEVER buy a cheap fibre glass filter that you can see through. All the majority of the dust will go right through and plug up your furnace secondary heat exchanger and your air conditioner coil on top of the furnace. Thats exactly what hvac contractor wants to make money. Your furnace will over heat and instead of lasting 20 years, your heat exchanger will crack sooner. Contractors hope they will double their profit by selling you 2 furnaces in a 20 year period.
@TheFightingSheep ive spoken to 80 y/o hvac tech and he said these cheap filters are all you need with a huge caveat which i don't care about: gotta replace every month! I've been doing this and nothing has gone wrong. I simply get those 3 for 13-17$ filters such as "dust stop" "noma" etc. I stopped filterete as said filter have been choking my system back. Everyone's mileage may vary i understand. Due diligence is a must.
@@evoxdream9101 I don't care what grandpa is saying or any other tech who never pull the blower out of 15,000 and clean it themselves. if you can't use a proper filter its because your duct work isn't design properly. Just because you're replacing the filter more often doesn't mean the filter is catching all the dust. Used those cheap filter for a few years and then pull the blower out and see if there's any dust accumulation on the blower wheel or the air conditioning coil. if there's any dust, that means your filter is not efficient. But hey! I can't force a horse to drink. hehe
@@TheFightingSheep I have only used the see-through filters in my furnace and after 22 years have only replaced the pilot light thermocouple in my furnace. The heat and air continue to work since 2002.
A few tips in case they may help someone: 1) If you have an awkward slide in style like that that makes it difficult to retrieve the filter, you can add a "courtesy pull tab" with a folded loop of tape (such as duct, smooshed together at the open portion) on one end of the cardboard to grab it, 2) write the date you installed it on the cardboard in case you forget when you last changed it and to help track how frequently you need to replace, 3) the frequency to change may need to be adjusted, eg 1 month during heavy use seasons/ 3 months during light use seasons.
@crabwalk7773 I like to think efficient and diligent with a hearty respect for using preventative measures as part of frugality! Also, I don't think any of us need any more hassles in our lives. I can say from experience that neither a dead furnace on the coldest day of the year nor a rusted out air handler in 90°+ are any fun. The salty air along the coast is not kind to these helpful friends!
When I had the 1 inch filters on my old furnace, I used to put a loop on the top with duct tape to create a little handle like one of yours had on the video. Made it so much easier.
I have been around this industry for decades. If you have a 1" filter, the biggest problem at 1", is if you use anything that really does a good job at trying to clean the air, even a pleated filter, it can be enough to restrict the air too much. The end result is the equivalent of a dirty filter, too much restriction. When air flow is restricted, not enough heat is picked up in the air across the heat exchanger, which means more heat is exhausted outside and less heat goes into the house/building. A similar thing applies to cooling. That means the furnace or AC runs longer to keep the thermostat satisfied. This also can cause the heat exchanger to get hotter than designed or the head pressure on the AC compressor to get too high, leading to an unsafe condition where the heat exchanger can crack, leaking exhaust inside, or compressor failure. The ideal solution would be to replace the 1" filter housing with a 4" filter housing, but in many cases, may be cost prohibitive. If your stuck with a 1" filter, even a 1" pleated merv 8 filter will cause some restriction on your system over a 1" fiberglass filter. However, for a 1" filter, its not advisable to exceed a merv 8 filter rating. And unfortunately, fiberglass filters do a very poor job at removing particulate from the air, but are better than a dirty filter or nothing. One thing you can do to help a fiberglass filter do its job better is spray "End Dust" on it, normally used on furniture for dusting, to help catch more particulate on the filter. And since there is not much filter media in a 1" filter, its wise to change the filter often, sometimes even when it looks clean, as it can still restrict airflow and do a much better job at cleaning the air when using a new filter. A monthly 1" filter change is not too often if your interested in maintaining better air quality. And as recommended by another person making a comment here, Project Farm's evaluations on most anything are first rate, including his review on air filters, and worth the time to watch. One last thing, if your furnace filter is similar to the setup shown in this video, look at the opening on the side of the filter closest to the furnace when the air handler is running, (for heating or cooling). See that there are no gaps between the filter and the ductwork on this side where air could be drawn in from the room after the filter. If there are gaps, unfiltered air goes through these gaps into the furnace and A coil of the air conditioner, which over time clogs things up and creates serious problems. Consider using a removable tape, like blue or green painters tape, to seal the area between the filter and the ductwork off, to prevent this unfiltered air from entering the unit. Most people don't realize that these filters weren't installed originally to improve indoor air quality, it was to help keep the furnace and AC clean, to maintain its peak efficiency.
If putting in a MERV 13 filter causes restrictions - then more than likely you have insufficient returns. I have ceiling mounted filter grills for my 5-ton HVAC system and I have four dedicated returns with total grill area of 1,500 square inches. That keeps them quiet and effective. Lowers the speed of the air going through the filter. I also use 3” pleated filters in all my ceiling mounted filter grills. After 15 years - my inside coil looks shiny and new - and I have never had to have it cleaned.
3 inch filters merv 8 should last you a full year... especially since they are in the ceiling.. they don't collect dust unless the air is circulating.. dust and dirt don't fall up.. you are shuffling the dust around with your feet.
@@nedcramdon1306 I purchase them online for about $300/year. I get six months out of them at a time. Far cheaper than the old 1” pleated filters than maybe lasted two months.
There are detailed filter tests on the internet that test restriction. The high MERV filters have MANY more pleats (surface area) than the lower ones, and actually flow better. These were measured by testing pressure before and after the filter. Watch the Project Farm video on furnace filters.
@@n2omikeI like project farm, and while I agree a higher MERV filter has more surface area in regards to filtering, the increase surface area doesn't allow more airflow in terms of volume, the hole is the same size. My furnace is only a year old and specifically states not to use pleated filters.
@@macfady2181 The high MERV filters has more than twice as many pleats. That means, if you stretch the filter media out, there's twice as much of it. It may have smaller holes, but there are a LOT more of them. With smaller holes, they can be a lot closer to each other. Plus, with twice as much filter paper, there's room for a LOT more holes. The extra pleats is how the high MERV units outflow the lower MERV choices. The Project Farm video explains things, and shows the evidence.
Years ago my HVAC guy told me to only use the cheaper filters due to the same reasons stated in this video. I guess he was right! Thank you so much guys for these tips (And saving me $$ lol).
Good information. Thanks. My furnace uses a 4 inch filter. I use a piece of duct tape folded over at the top and bottom of the filter as handles to aid in removal.
Ages ago when we moved into our home we tried one of those high end filters on what was then our home original furnace. It literally cause our old furnace to shut down. It over heated. When we had our newer 2 stage furnace put in 10 years ago, we were told to just use a regular 1" filter. We do have birds as pets that cause dust. I just wait for my furnace to stop, then pop out the filter and vacuum it on a regular bases. No worries.
I’ve never turned the power off, but I do wait for the blower to stop running when I change. Fortunately my filter is easier to get to so it’s a pretty quiet change.
Thirty five years in the trade and you are the only other furnace tech that recommends the cheapest angel hair filter that I constantly had to tell my techs , customers and apprentices to use. Pleated filters are a cash grab and a major cause of failures in the high efficiency equipment. Bravo
For me, the higher end filters are a MUST - but I'm not running them in my furnace, they're pulling in outside air and I need to get the smoke out or I CAN'T BREATHE. Not a normal situation though.
I would say the filters are not a cash grab and angel hair filters are from an old school of thinking. Proper filtration is need but also proper air flow. Home owners need to be educated on air flow and not to use the cheapest filter. If someone recommends using a cheap filter for airflow they are missing the real problem. One thing I will add is yes the most expensive filters are a waste and mid filter is better and simply just need to be changed every month or earlier if need be.
Usually I simply adjust the thermostat a few degrees cooler, wait for the blowing to stop, then change the filter in 2 seconds. Thank you about advising against hi cost filters which strain the system.
I love this incredibly short, informative to the point, easy to understand video. I have been doing most of what was suggested, and will drop the high merv filters. I noticed the arrows, but wasn't sure which way to install, but fortunately, intuitively installed, and marked, the right way. As a senior on fixed income videos like these are much appreciated! Thanks!❤
As an HVAC contractor/technician I think every home owner needs to watch this informative video. Mr. Holmes made a boatload of money misrepresenting the value of 3M Filtrete filters. Air quality is best achieved by using whole house air cleaners or a hepa whole house system.
@@MrWhatis yes the furnace supplies the whole house with heat and air conditioning. 1” high density filters create very restrictive air flow. This is hard on heat exchangers in the heating mode because it causes heat exchangers to get too hot. In the cooling mode it causes evaporator coils to freeze over. It shortens the life of blower motors because of over heating them with restricted air flow. Whole house air cleaners are better because they have more surface area for air movement to occur. HEPA air cleaning for whole house removes a certain amount of air from the return air duct and sends it through the HEPA cleaning filters and UV lights and reintroduces it back into the air stream of the house. Hope this clarifies things for you.
@@danobrien3109 i have run the 3m filters since the 90s before mike got his picture on it. furnace was installed in 1987. replace the fan motor in 2023. i notice the furnace was cycle on /off to cool heat exchanges, got 36 years out of it. yes there is a certain amount of resistance over nothing or filter that will not catch anything. but a good filter catching more and plugging up to me means it is doing it job. just needs to be change more often. I guess it comes down to want you want. cleaner air or make no difference . I thank you for your reply . 1 more question does the HEPA system run on the same duct work as the heating duct work?
@@MrWhatis I don’t disagree with anything you have said. Furnaces prior to the 90’s were generally PSC motors ( using a run capacitor) or belted motors. Both good motors and hard working. They both consumed more energy than ECM motors ( constant torque , no capacitor). ECM motors run using much less energy than either of the other two. This was and is one of the reasons ( not the only one ) that furnaces today are much more efficient than previous generations of furnaces. That being said these motors are not as tolerant with air flow restriction because they are not using an energy absorbing capacitor to help in the operation. As for your question on HEPA air cleaning. Yes it is incorporated into the existing duct work system, very much like an HRV . The difference between the two is that the HEPA filtration system does not exhaust stale out to the outside. It simply cleans it and reintroduces it back into the air stream of the duct work. Hope this helps to clarify what I said in my previous post.👍🇨🇦
it does help. thank you.. i understand it better, thank you, 1 more question , would changing the filter every 30 days (monthly) do you think that would prevent the new furnaces from over heating ? thank you again .
The best thing you can do is have a 4" filter track. The 4" MERV 8 filters will do a much better job. More surface area, increased dust holding capacity ( if you want to know if your filter is near the end of it's usefulness look on the back side and see if there is any dust bleed thru, if not it's still working, if it's discolored time to change it, don't go on what the up-stream side looks like, a good quality high capacity filter will look pretty horrendous before it has reached it's dust holding capacity) and consequently longer life, probably a year. Don't use the ultra cheap fiberglass filters, they are crap, we used to say they are good for dead birds and golf balls. MERV 11,12,13 pleated filters only get a high MERV rating because they are statically charged, once the charge dissipates after the filter is loaded with some dust it's no better than a MERV 8 and probably not even that good. Stick with a good quality MERV 8 and save your $. There is nothing stopping a filter mfg labeling their product with whatever MERV rating they want, it's the wild west when it comes to regulation, HEPA gets thrown around willy nilly too and it's all BS. Stick with the top brands in industrial filtration, I'd recommend Camfil.
Just moved into a new home. My furnace uses the big 16x25x4 filters and I bought Merv 11 since that is what I pulled out of the furnace and they were on sale for $20 each at home depot. I figure since we only run the furnace from Nov to April pretty much that I'd replace before every winter but think after watching your video I will replace twice a year at least. Thanks.
Great info. In my case changing the filters (we have two) is *easier* when the system is running. Our HVAC system is in the attic (1 story home) and has two returns - both located in the ceiling. The access covers swing down and the filters fall out. To replace them you have to align them just right as you close the cover. That is, unless the system is running. Then it holds them in place and you can pull the old one out easily, and it will hold the new one exactly in place while you close the cover. I use FilterEasy subscription service - they send me filters on schedule. I had to check - I'm getting MERV 8s now. There is some dust in the house, but we have a dog, and construction going on in the area so that's to be expected.
Those one inch merv 13 filters use specialized materials that reduce static pressure very little. A TH-camr tested this after talking bad about these filters just to find the opposite. The static pressure between the merv 10 was actually higher than the merv 13.
They make the Merv 13 filters less restrictive by adding surface area via more pleats. Some people cannot grasp that concept. The extra area also allows them to hold more dirt before becoming restrictive. Check out the Project Farm video. th-cam.com/video/RkjRKIRva58/w-d-xo.html
Not really. The high MERV filters actually flow better than the low ones due to having far more pleats (surface area). It's been tested numerous times using pressure differential before and after the filter. Look up filter tests on TH-cam. Project Farm has a great video on Furnace Filters.
@@n2omike Test it yourself and let us know what you learn. Lots of channels to walk you through it. I do it every furnace install. Fiberglass filters always result in lowest external total static pressure across the furnace. Most furnaces are approved for only 0.5" total. That's return restriction PLUS supply restrictions. A lot of pleated filters tell you their static pressure drops approach .3 or .4" across ONLY the filter, when it's clean. Add the rest of the return, then supply system restriction to that and the furnace is now running over the 1/2" rating. Replacing ECM motor modules out of warranty can be pricey.
@@gadgethunter5732 Watch the video. I've had best luck with the drastically increased surface area of filters with a lot of pleats. A fine filter that is twice as big has more room to hold contaminants before it gets restrictive. It's why the 2" and 4" thick filters work so well. Watch the video. th-cam.com/video/RkjRKIRva58/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic tips. Man was I making these mistakes arrow wrong way & 'top of the line' allergy filters. My direction error was because our furnace installer actually placed it wrong at time of install. I did as you suggested on my very first change, marking the direction. I'll scratch that out & relabel right after I hit 'comment' Thanks
Tip # 6, have your HVAC tech buy a pair of tin snips and slot in a thicker 3", 4" or 5" pleated filter. Now you can increase the MERV rating *without* added restriction. The $1 fiberglass filters basically last forever because they let everything through.
We went from a MERV8 to MERV11 and noticed a massive reduction in dust on everything. What I really want is a larger filter. 16x25x1 is too small! Should be illegal. They get filled too quickly. My sister's house is 3x mine and she has a 20x25x5(She uses a MERV2 or 3 1" as a pre-filter and a 4" MERV11). Changes it 2x a year(pre-filter every 3 months). I have to change mine almost monthly and she has 4x the cats I have ;-)
Thanks for the suggestion to add reminders on my phone! I hate that there is no audio reminder on the thermostat, just a visual one. But I have to look closely at the thermostat and since it’s programmed I rarely do.
Great video see you are showing my exact furnace , one thing I learned is a furnace is not designed to be an air purifier unit using high merv rated filters , they only make the blower motor work harder and shorten life . I use pleated filters but no higher than merv 4 used , wish they had a lower rated merv pleated filter , like a merv 2 . Less air restricton .
3:14, enough with the iPhone, you can put your filter replacement schedule on any phone, Android or iPhone. For those not in the know yet blinded by iPhone marketing, Samsung Galaxy provides more business features and truly better security as than the iPhone. For over eleven years I used the iPhone, from the 3Gs through XR, then switched to Samsung Note 20. Also, I supported iPhone for family, friends, and neighbors. So, yes I do know what I am talking about. With Samsung I do not experience any of the compromises I did with the iPhone.
great video, but I would recommend an alternative to your comments on the higher MERV filters. 1) in areas with relatively good outside air quality, a cheap filter is probably fine but you'll load up the coil faster with this; you are dead on about the fan energy. In this changing climate, it may make sense for some to keep a high MERV filter in storage and use that short term to help capture wildfire smoke for those of us dealing with this. 2) As a HVAC designer, I'd say the problem or handicap to avoid is to not install a 1" filter rack to begin with, for those at the point of purchasing a new system or new home. 4" deep should be a minimum, consider 6" or deeper if you can. yes, these filters are much, much more $$ but they last much longer, they have lower pressure drops for the same size and you can get the magic three of low PD, high filtration and high life with some extended media types that are available in these depths (mini-pleats, V-mini-pleats, etc.).
I live in Tennessee,,the climate changes 4 times a year.. a 1inch merv 8 filter works just fine.. lasts 3 to 6 months. Over designing of the systems just waste money without improving the quality..
Since our house was Built/New - 13 yrs ago I have used a Nordic Pure (Mer 8) filter 24x24x1 with 2 - 12x12x1 filters in each bedroom - I’ve kept the inside of the furnace spotless (cleaning before every winter) - condenser outside has mesh screens on all 4 sides & on top to keep all debris from plugging up fins - condensate lines are cleaned once a yr & flushed with bleach water. Equipment is all Bryant & no issues ever - not one repair needed.
Changing a filter is super easy. Aak that a "filter pull" be installed when the return drop/90 is installed; a simple piece of angle. I've installed them 20 years. On an installation just yesterday, with a 16x24x1 filter, a simple piece of angle; 4x27x5/8" that runs 3" outside the return 90 as a handle/pull and the filter simply rests on, and acts as a pull for changing the filter. It simply rests in a the filter track. Easy peasy.
For many years, I used a 20"x25"X4" high end filter for our oil fired furnace. Two years ago, we finally converted to natural gas and installed an ultra high efficiency gas furnace with a variable speed, commutated D.C. motor. Oil furnace motor was replaced 8 years ago for $124 dollars. The gas furnace motor replacement is currently listed at $960 dollars. The technician stated that air restrictions were the biggest killer of these very expensive motors and recommended a change to a basic fiberglass 1 inch thick filter and more frequent filter changes. The 1 inch filter is changed every 2 months during winter and every 3 months during summer. Air flow and distribution has been improved and the 1 inch $8 dollar filters seem to grab more dust that the $65 dollar 4 inch filter ever did. A new gas furnace is never going to enjoy the lifespan of an older oil fired furnace, so it's important to maximize it's lifespan however possible.
Well I hope you're running HEPA air purifiers because inside a modern home has plenty of microplastics, particulates that are terrible for your respiratory system.
@@turtleh Yes, I do run two air purifiers that are HEPA rated for 99.97% efficiency, one on each floor level and each purifier is rated for 1600 sq. ft. of space.
Yes, my filter got dirty faster than expected during the winter. In this apartment building, every apartment has its own furnace/water heater. But there was more. I also had so called fresh air being pumped into my apartment in the summer time via a window mounted dual fan. So just to see how clean that outdoor air was, I placed a 20" x 10" x 1" filter on the dual fan casing. It was pitch black after just 2 months.
The service tech told me that I was running too high of a Merv filter in the summer guess because duct work in 60 year old house are undersized. Like to use 2" wide painters tape to seal filter. Just wish all the filter manufacturers used one standard filter rating system like Merv. Best to purchase two or four at a time. As soon as I only have one left will pick up more on next trip to big box store.
I've settled on MERV 5 as optimal. MERV 4 gave dust clumps in areas, higher filtration gave high leaving air temperatures, which I didn't like heating the heat exchanger. Dust is satisfactorily under control with MERV 5.
@@adamsteele6148 Excellent. I really like to warn people against higher filter efficiencies, but that gets rejected because of hyper-health concerns (not undesirable). There are drawbacks that typical residential equipment isn't built to withstand - mainly higher air restriction leading to lower airflow leading to high heat exchanger temperatures or possibly evaporator coil freezing. And the cost of running higher filter efficiencies. (Telling the truth, I've even vacuumed my filter instead of buying a new one each time, and it seems to be fine.)
I was convinced Jason was your brother until you introduced him! You guys have a very similar chill, knows what he’s doing, vibe. Anyway loved this video, thanks!
I love the bloopers at the end of the video:). The video was very informative and it's full of great and very useful tips and information. Keep up the great work. Please will you do a video on how to fix your furnace when it makes a loud thump or bang noise when it turns on then:)?
I've used those higher merv filters since 2002 in the same HVAC system, and have never had to replace ANY components or parts, except for an AC capacitor. I DO change the filter monthly, but purchasing them on sale at Costco, comes out to about $9 a filter, and I'm ok with that, especially when it results in more highly-filtered air in my house.
I use the reminder function in my thermostat. It reminds you after a fixed number of run hours. So during winter and summer replacements are almost monthly, in spring and fall maybe every 2-3 months. Calendar time doesn't account for how much air the filter has had to process.
If you use a cheap filter, dust will clog your air conditioning coil or heat pump coil after a few years. It's very difficult to clean those coils as they have very delicate fins that are hard to reach.
This is why friends dont let friends ever use washable or fiberglass filters. Its also hard on your fan motor to be coated in dust too. More dust on the furniture also.
This guy is 100% on the money. People dropping $15 - $20 for a MERV 20 furnace filter are wasting their money (money and energy cost). The filter is NOT for you......the filter is designed to protect the heat exchanger and AC evap coil!!!!!! Cheers!
Yes those 20 mev filters are really bad but on the other side, the fiberglass ones are nearly useless. We call them "leaf catchers" in the biz. What you want is the cheapest pleated filter.
Fiberglass filters are used to remove lint from the airflow, and not much else, so it does not build up in the furnace. If you are having the HVAC system installed, require that they install a slot that will accept a 2 inch or 4 inch pleated filter. You will get the better airflow and still get dust, pollen, and other allergens removed while getting a good air flow. And they will last a lot longer as well.
Great tips. I have an older furnace where the filter sits at an angle behind a cover. I found that I have room for a 2 inch thick filter. There is better air flow because the deeper folds almost double the surface area of the filter material.
I changed my one inch filter to a 4 inch filter, because the one inch filter was in the way of a drain pipe and didn’t fit in there right. Put the 4 inch filter to the other side with a magnetic door, I love it
Metal coat hanger...cut the long piece off, bend a small hook on one end, a larger on the other, use the small hook to pull filter out and leave the 'hook' on the cold air return just above the filter always there when you need it.
Generally the filter is in place to keep dust and dirt from settling in the refrigeration coils and gas burners, only partially for cleaning the air you breathe. If you’ve ever seen the interior of an air handler after not having a filter in place you’ll know what I mean.
When it comes to the quality, whatever you see on the good filter when you change it would've been in your lungs. I can see clear as day through those blue fiberglass ones Just my 2 cents
Do not leave your fan running 24/7 during cooling season. Your AC pulls the humidity from your home to the evap coil. Once the temp is met the system shuts down and the humidity drains off the coil and out the drain. If the fan stays running it will blow the moisture, thus the humidity back into the home. Heating season, have at it.
No it does not. It runs at a much lower speed which doesn't pull the moisture off. Funny part is that even when running at max speed for cooling, your a/c is still draining properly and the moisture isn't flying around. This comment is false information
@maxell3655 I've been doing HVAC for over 6 years, and yes, leaving your blower on during cooling season will cause humidity issues. I've seen plenty of floors and cabinets ruined due to it.
@@handlesaredumb1 nice! Glad to see someone trying to find solutions to try and help the consumer. Well small background, 2nd generation HVAC tech, highest level of certification to achieve in my country for over 12 years now. Anyways, sure, you could have an extremely small percentage of the water evaporates into the air that didn't drain while it was running. Now metal drain pans always rot, systems that had the drain line plug and the drain pan overflow will cause excessive rotting of everything underneath the coil. Now that you mention the humidity thing. I am sure that you are well aware that as long as it's above zero inside or outside the house that evaporation is always happening. That raises humidity. Houses are not sealed 100% which means they are prone to air exchange from leakage, if it's above freezing, humidity is coming in. Any standing water in a toilet, a cup, bowl, drain is always evaporating inside a house. Water sitting in your drain pan of your evaporator will also evaporate and one could argue that not running the fan would cause that specific areas by the evaporator to eventually go up to 100% humidity until the fan turns on again to move that humid air away from materials that can rust. I have lived in a house that had the fan run constantly as it was a 4 level split to keep all the floors closer to the same temperature. That fan only stopped running the day it died after almost 16 years. Then we replaced it later that day and kept it running.
@maxell3655 How many generations have we had "professionals with the highest certifications" do things wrong? Lead pipes for drinking water and paint, for example. I don't know where you live, but in the southern US having the blower on all the time during the summer will cause issues. Best thing for people to do is try it and see for themselves, instead of listening to two strangers argue online.
@@handlesaredumb1 you aren't wrong. Can't always be right. Have to know your area. I live way way north of you. Been working with equipment that's over 40 years old where the blower has never shut off and it still looks immaculate inside. But where I am, only time that you see a rusty situation is when it is related to a drain pan that has overflowed. Outside of that, don't really see anything unless the house itself has moisture problems that isn't related to the equipment. Maybe you guys down there need to slow the fan speed down in a/c to pull more humidity out of the air to help combat the moisture problems a bit
The fiberglass filters, according to some sources and project farm on yt, you really shouldn't use a fiberglass filter if you care about air quality at all. Merv8 has a negligible effect on static pressure and filters almost 4x as many particles out. We use merv12 and definitely can tell a difference in interior air quality over merv8. With fiberglass, ugh... would be allergy city.
Exactly. This HVAC expert is 100% wrong in his filter assumptions, and took zero account of the surface area (number of pleats) in the High Merv filter such as the 3M 1900 (Merv 13) Project Farm video is spot on with data collection.
I use FPR-5 filters (Home Depot's brand) which are ~equivalent to MERV 8. A HVAC guy once told me (YEARS ago)< if you can see though a filter, it's ain't filtering much. True, and pretty obvious isn't it. For me, FPR5/MERV 8 are WAY better than see-through (useless) cheap fiberglass filters, yet they don't compromise/redistrict airflow. Win-Win. And my size filters (16x25x1) are only $11.96/5-pack. Nice. My apt complex uses the cheap fiberglass ones (seems like ALL complexes do), but I go with the better ones. And replace them every 90 days. -- BR
I think a bigger mistake is homeowners trying to be as cheap as possible when getting a furnace installed. 1in filter cavities is cheap, and dumb. Just throw a few extra bucks at it and spec a 3 or 4 inch filter, maybe a bit more to stack a charcoal prefilter. Less pressure drop, less electricity, less cost for filters over time, and less frequent filter changes at the cost of a few more bucks up front.
Except that the 3M Filtrete 1900 model you have in your hand has one of the best air flow ratings of all filters. Due to the extreme number of pleats (thus why it's more expensive), even though it's a MERV 13 filter it has significantly better resistance ratings at any CFM than the majority of air filters, even ones of a much lower MERV rating.
I have put a Filtrate 1900 in changing out every 3 months which is excessive given I live alone, have no pets, and vacuum twice a month. I started using the 'charcoal' Merv 11 filter as activated charcoal (claim) filters out odours etc. It's cooking odours that drive me nuts because they seem to linger so long. This is very subjective and I've only had it had for a couple of weeks. I have a high eff furnace ( brings in outside air for combustion not recirc indoor air) and for all I can read a Merv 11 will satisfy most needs. If I had pets, kids, etc I would go back to the 1900 changing more frequently i.e. holding it up to a light to get an idea of how dirty it has become.
I came up recently with understanding that in most of the cases change your filter idea is the marketing scam. Yes, filter should be changed, if it is dirty. But how do you know if it's dirty or not? Why would anyone need to swap it once in 3 month? How often someone using furnace? How often you are opening your doors/windows etc. Do you have air purifier or not? So many variables in the formula. I changed my last filter probably around year ago. During summer in the most of the cases I am using split units in living and master bedroom. Change your filters only when it is really needed.
Ok, so it comes down to where you live in the USA. I live in the desert southwest. We change our A/C filter monthly and every other month in the winter.
The video is good, the fabric filter generates more static pressure than the fiber filters. I don't know why they recommend them. The fiber ones tend to get dirty faster but allow a better air flow. Greetings.
You dont need that high of a merv, but definitely stick with pleated. Keep in mind, the higher the merv the more stress you cause to the indoor fan motor (shortening its lifespan).
There's a paper tab bent over and glued to the top of the filter frame. You can see it in the video. Pull the tab up and pull out to remove the filter.
Great tips and thanks for posting! We have a 5" filter in our furnace. A MERV 11. I have to admit, I pay about $50 for a filter and to be honest, I only change it once a year. If I had to change the filter 4 or 5 times a year, I'd go broke. I've never had a problem yet. Actually after a year even with 2 dogs in the house, the filter doesn't look that bad.
I love this channel but I have to say there is a common and important misunderstanding about these filters that Jason not only didn't cover but perpetuated. The air resistance that any filter gives isn't only related to it's MERV rating. A high quality (typically more expensive) filter can have a lower air resistance than a lower MERV filter of lower quality. Lower air resistance is achieved with more pleats (increased total surface area) and better/higher performing filter material. Good filters manufacturers print both their MERV rating and their "initial resistance", given in IWC on the filter itself. This is sort of like inferior olive oil that doesn't include acid level on the label. I like to buy from a brand that is up front and proud of their product's specs. Jason did preface what he said with "for people with 1 inch filters..." but makes no mention of how a bigger filter package of 2, 3, 4 even 5 inches results in lower air resistance for for a given MERV due to the larger surface area.
I got a pair of plastic putty knives that I use to pull out the old air filter. I put one on each side of the filter, twist them just a little, and pull the filter out. I keep them in my furnace room.
This is one thing I envy American houses for. The houses seem to usually have good air conditioning with air circulation and to some extent dust filtration. Here in Europe houses rarely have that kinda stuff. Even just AC is rare here
My HVAC guy is retired after working 40 years in the business, he says to use an inexpensive, pleated filter. I'm his words, the filter is mainly there to protect the furnace, NOT purify the air. I use two HEPA filter air circulators around the house, and get decent-but-cheaper pleated filters.
This video caught my eye because I have the identical furnace. When they installed it, I suggested that they put a row of my concrete bricks under it because a one inch flood of water in the next 20 years is likely, and who wants water in their steel furnace? They raised their eyebrows and decided it was a great idea. Already paid off when the grandkids overflowed the toilet with tissue. :) I see here a water tank beside the furnace. It has a tray but that pressure relief valve.... they do fail!
Used to change my Merv 11 filters every 3 months like clockwork. Just had a service call and it turns out, the Merv 11 filters are blocking too much air flow and my furnace was overheating. HVAC tech put in a cheap fiberglass filter and in 30 days, I will make sure to replace with another "cheap" filter and then as recommended, go no higher than a MERV 8 filter and change every 2 months and not 3. Cost me $89 for a service call but luckily, my new system has a safety sensor which kept shutting down the furnace but the recycling of on and off again was what prompted me to call the HVAC company in the first place. Still cheaper than having my furnace catch fire, right?
@@craigk965 completely agree. fiberglass are only good for catching leaves, but doesnt protect your coil or fan motor very well at all. Go to the lowest Merv pleated filter instead
Some good tips there, question i installed a forced hot air furnace in my garage. I'm getting a slight odor, and I get a feeling like I'm a little high, I haven't ran it much but I felt that 2 to 3 times already other people didn't get that when we went in there together. The only thing I could think that could be causing slight oder and maybe that high feeling is the metal 3m foil tape on my exhaust pipe, I put it on all around all my pipes joints and seems. Maybe it needs a good run to burn it off, maybe it's the glue on the tape that I'm smelling. Did you ever hear about this happening to any other people in your field of work. I also have a carbon monoxide detector that is brand new, and it don't go off. But works when I hit the test button. Thanks any help will be appreciated
I have the same filter setup as in the video. My furnace has such air pull that it nearly pulls the filter into the blower. Sometimes pulling the filter out to check it or change it, the filter is all messed up and hard to get out of the slot.
I have a Heba365 filter. Its change time is normally once a year. But usually I can go 1 1/4 year. But it requires a little work on the cold air duct to fit it in initially.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the bloopers at the end! LOL.
I do it when it’s not running.
you want to make sure the arrows on the furnace are pointing towards.. the furnace.. xD
First TH-cam video I've seen with bloopers at the end... LOL
Me either 😅
Mistake #6 Forgetting to use the cheap filter in the summer and your AC coils freeze over forming a block of ice in the duct. Seriously. I was told by the HVAC guy that the good filters restrict air flow too much so that condensation was forming on my AC coils in the duct and were freezing over. I am supposed to use the cheap filters in the summer to avoid this. That is what I do and I have never had an issue since.
As a 30 year HVAC service tech the best thing to clean the air in your house is a good vacuum and use it at least once a week. Every thing he said I stand behind as well good job.
People dont seem to understand that your HVAC unit is not an air filter. All those expensive filters are a waste. A stand alone air filter would work far better and be alot cheaper in the long run. I got one in my room. Sleep like a baby with it.
I change my filter every 30 days in winter. In the summer they don't get dirty as quick running air conditioner. I just turn my thermostat down and wait until unit shuts off and in a couple of minutes i change out the filter. I've never shut the main power off to do it
We live at a high traffic street and the usual SW winds blow road dust at the house so the filter gets dirty more often than in the winter when using the AC . We have had two very mild winters so the furnace runs less and no need to change the filter as much . I use both MV6 and the 'angel hair' .
This is what i thought, I had never turned the furance off but rather just turned off the thermostat waited for the unit to stop and change the filter. I thought as long as the blower was not on it was fine. thanks for confirming.
The fiberglass see-through filters last me a year, and they're the cheapest. Why you want to constantly babysit your furnace?
Hmmm, I have never turned the power off to change the filter.
Ya, I just lower the temp.😊
I just wait for the furnace to quit then swap it out.
Ya the most important thing is for the fan to be off.
Nah just rip the old one out and ram in the new one. Takes less than 5 seconds
The temp and blower turned down then off is good news to me.
I did not know about the turn temp down thing. That’s solid advice. Makes sense
I have a washable filter that I have had for 15 years. Best filter that I have ever owned. It gets washed once every month. No wonder you can’t buy this filter anymore. It lasts forever! Great video. Thanks.
Had mine for 18 years and it works great….Cost me an extra $50 when they installed the furnace but the math says I’m waaaaaaaaay ahead on that added expense.
You can say that again scoutmaster33. I think my filter was about $25.00. How much money have I saved over 15 years and counting. Also, with a washed and clean filter, my furnace has been going strong for 30 years. I really do believe that your furnace does not have to work as hard with a clean filter.
Same here. Just do one thing: disassemble your washable filter from time to time and wash every layer separately. Just remember to assemble it tge way it was before. 😊
Washable is never as good as a pleated filter. Its kinda like using a fish net to june bugs. more dust build inside the furnace (on the fan and the ac coil) and add more layers of dust on all your furniture in the house.
Carrier Air handler still comes with a washable filter that last a long time....
that's why 20 years ago I bought electrostatic washable filters for my furnace plus the two air handler locations as we have a two zone system. I use hose to wash them twice per year and they've worked perfectly and I haven't had any problems or bought new filters since.
I hope the EAC works well for you. However we had an EAC and it occasionally would produce ozone to the point where it was irritating. I eventually pitched the electric grids in the trash and replaced them with a single 4” thick disposable filter. In my small house one of those big filters lasts a whole year.
Electrostatic air filters capture probably less than 20% of the fine dust particles that a regular merv8 filter can. Comparatively, they're gimmicks
@@studybuddy2574high Mervs avoid.
Mr. Carpenter, I'm so glad you made this video and that I came across it!!! I rent a home, didn't know anything about a furnace and the landlord doesn't do anything as far as routine maintenance...will be getting new filters TODAY! and will keep to a schedule of replacement...thank you...
🚨 I’ve cleaned over 15,000 furnaces. Trust me NEVER buy a cheap fibre glass filter that you can see through. All the majority of the dust will go right through and plug up your furnace secondary heat exchanger and your air conditioner coil on top of the furnace. Thats exactly what hvac contractor wants to make money. Your furnace will over heat and instead of lasting 20 years, your heat exchanger will crack sooner. Contractors hope they will double their profit by selling you 2 furnaces in a 20 year period.
I want to trust you but I've been using the cheapest see-through filters for too long to quit now.
@TheFightingSheep ive spoken to 80 y/o hvac tech and he said these cheap filters are all you need with a huge caveat which i don't care about: gotta replace every month! I've been doing this and nothing has gone wrong. I simply get those 3 for 13-17$ filters such as "dust stop" "noma" etc. I stopped filterete as said filter have been choking my system back. Everyone's mileage may vary i understand. Due diligence is a must.
@@evoxdream9101 I don't care what grandpa is saying or any other tech who never pull the blower out of 15,000 and clean it themselves. if you can't use a proper filter its because your duct work isn't design properly. Just because you're replacing the filter more often doesn't mean the filter is catching all the dust. Used those cheap filter for a few years and then pull the blower out and see if there's any dust accumulation on the blower wheel or the air conditioning coil. if there's any dust, that means your filter is not efficient. But hey! I can't force a horse to drink. hehe
@@TheFightingSheep I have only used the see-through filters in my furnace and after 22 years have only replaced the pilot light thermocouple in my furnace. The heat and air continue to work since 2002.
A few tips in case they may help someone: 1) If you have an awkward slide in style like that that makes it difficult to retrieve the filter, you can add a "courtesy pull tab" with a folded loop of tape (such as duct, smooshed together at the open portion) on one end of the cardboard to grab it, 2) write the date you installed it on the cardboard in case you forget when you last changed it and to help track how frequently you need to replace, 3) the frequency to change may need to be adjusted, eg 1 month during heavy use seasons/ 3 months during light use seasons.
Excellent tips
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thank you kindly!
I was coming to say the same. Great (or lazy? efficient?) minds think alike!
@crabwalk7773 I like to think efficient and diligent with a hearty respect for using preventative measures as part of frugality! Also, I don't think any of us need any more hassles in our lives. I can say from experience that neither a dead furnace on the coldest day of the year nor a rusted out air handler in 90°+ are any fun. The salty air along the coast is not kind to these helpful friends!
YES!!! I
Just wrote the same above. I have done this for years! :D
When I had the 1 inch filters on my old furnace, I used to put a loop on the top with duct tape to create a little handle like one of yours had on the video. Made it so much easier.
I have been around this industry for decades. If you have a 1" filter, the biggest problem at 1", is if you use anything that really does a good job at trying to clean the air, even a pleated filter, it can be enough to restrict the air too much. The end result is the equivalent of a dirty filter, too much restriction. When air flow is restricted, not enough heat is picked up in the air across the heat exchanger, which means more heat is exhausted outside and less heat goes into the house/building. A similar thing applies to cooling. That means the furnace or AC runs longer to keep the thermostat satisfied. This also can cause the heat exchanger to get hotter than designed or the head pressure on the AC compressor to get too high, leading to an unsafe condition where the heat exchanger can crack, leaking exhaust inside, or compressor failure.
The ideal solution would be to replace the 1" filter housing with a 4" filter housing, but in many cases, may be cost prohibitive. If your stuck with a 1" filter, even a 1" pleated merv 8 filter will cause some restriction on your system over a 1" fiberglass filter. However, for a 1" filter, its not advisable to exceed a merv 8 filter rating. And unfortunately, fiberglass filters do a very poor job at removing particulate from the air, but are better than a dirty filter or nothing. One thing you can do to help a fiberglass filter do its job better is spray "End Dust" on it, normally used on furniture for dusting, to help catch more particulate on the filter. And since there is not much filter media in a 1" filter, its wise to change the filter often, sometimes even when it looks clean, as it can still restrict airflow and do a much better job at cleaning the air when using a new filter. A monthly 1" filter change is not too often if your interested in maintaining better air quality.
And as recommended by another person making a comment here, Project Farm's evaluations on most anything are first rate, including his review on air filters, and worth the time to watch.
One last thing, if your furnace filter is similar to the setup shown in this video, look at the opening on the side of the filter closest to the furnace when the air handler is running, (for heating or cooling). See that there are no gaps between the filter and the ductwork on this side where air could be drawn in from the room after the filter. If there are gaps, unfiltered air goes through these gaps into the furnace and A coil of the air conditioner, which over time clogs things up and creates serious problems. Consider using a removable tape, like blue or green painters tape, to seal the area between the filter and the ductwork off, to prevent this unfiltered air from entering the unit. Most people don't realize that these filters weren't installed originally to improve indoor air quality, it was to help keep the furnace and AC clean, to maintain its peak efficiency.
Awesome video. So informative. Im a single lady running two houses by myslf. I SO needed this!!!!!
If putting in a MERV 13 filter causes restrictions - then more than likely you have insufficient returns. I have ceiling mounted filter grills for my 5-ton HVAC system and I have four dedicated returns with total grill area of 1,500 square inches. That keeps them quiet and effective. Lowers the speed of the air going through the filter. I also use 3” pleated filters in all my ceiling mounted filter grills. After 15 years - my inside coil looks shiny and new - and I have never had to have it cleaned.
Changed every month that set up would cost me over 2000 bucks a year.
I get about four months out of my filter set up. Also - I buy them online from supplywarehouse. Cheaper than doing filters from Home Depot.
3 inch filters merv 8 should last you a full year... especially since they are in the ceiling.. they don't collect dust unless the air is circulating.. dust and dirt don't fall up.. you are shuffling the dust around with your feet.
Being in the ceiling where it's harder for large debris to reach is the biggest advantage of your set up. Floor returns are the worst.
@@nedcramdon1306 I purchase them online for about $300/year. I get six months out of them at a time. Far cheaper than the old 1” pleated filters than maybe lasted two months.
A refreshing video. Gave good information and facts. I appreciate it being concise and not dragged out!!
I got this video because i sent my landlord a text asking for a filter....i hate being spied on!
There are detailed filter tests on the internet that test restriction. The high MERV filters have MANY more pleats (surface area) than the lower ones, and actually flow better. These were measured by testing pressure before and after the filter. Watch the Project Farm video on furnace filters.
Says the filter salesman 😂
@@hscottkarpf3081 Not a filter salesman. Look up Project Farm Filter Test on TH-cam and see for yourself.
@@n2omike Project Farm does awesome & highly detailed reviews!
@@n2omikeI like project farm, and while I agree a higher MERV filter has more surface area in regards to filtering, the increase surface area doesn't allow more airflow in terms of volume, the hole is the same size. My furnace is only a year old and specifically states not to use pleated filters.
@@macfady2181 The high MERV filters has more than twice as many pleats. That means, if you stretch the filter media out, there's twice as much of it. It may have smaller holes, but there are a LOT more of them. With smaller holes, they can be a lot closer to each other. Plus, with twice as much filter paper, there's room for a LOT more holes. The extra pleats is how the high MERV units outflow the lower MERV choices. The Project Farm video explains things, and shows the evidence.
Years ago my HVAC guy told me to only use the cheaper filters due to the same reasons stated in this video. I guess he was right! Thank you so much guys for these tips (And saving me $$ lol).
Only use heavy duty filter for pet and dander. I use the cheap ones and change out often
@@cliffm8112 Also smoke and viruses.
Good information. Thanks.
My furnace uses a 4 inch filter. I use a piece of duct tape folded over at the top and bottom of the filter as handles to aid in removal.
That 4 inch filter should last 1 yr,..
Ages ago when we moved into our home we tried one of those high end filters on what was then our home original furnace. It literally cause our old furnace to shut down. It over heated. When we had our newer 2 stage furnace put in 10 years ago, we were told to just use a regular 1" filter. We do have birds as pets that cause dust. I just wait for my furnace to stop, then pop out the filter and vacuum it on a regular bases. No worries.
I’ve never turned the power off, but I do wait for the blower to stop running when I change. Fortunately my filter is easier to get to so it’s a pretty quiet change.
Thirty five years in the trade and you are the only other furnace tech that recommends the cheapest angel hair filter that I constantly had to tell my techs , customers and apprentices to use. Pleated filters are a cash grab and a major cause of failures in the high efficiency equipment. Bravo
For me, the higher end filters are a MUST - but I'm not running them in my furnace, they're pulling in outside air and I need to get the smoke out or I CAN'T BREATHE.
Not a normal situation though.
I would say the filters are not a cash grab and angel hair filters are from an old school of thinking. Proper filtration is need but also proper air flow. Home owners need to be educated on air flow and not to use the cheapest filter. If someone recommends using a cheap filter for airflow they are missing the real problem. One thing I will add is yes the most expensive filters are a waste and mid filter is better and simply just need to be changed every month or earlier if need be.
Those fibre glass ones are pure useless garbage
@ivanbejar5 He has 35yrs experience and I have 6yrs and currently am a tech, I agree with him. What experience is your comment coming from?
Holy hell I didn't know about the cheap vs expensive filter thing. Ordering some cheap ones now!
Make sure its the cheapest pleated. Those fiberglass leaf catchers are complete junk.
Thanks for this! Those arrows saying “air flow” made no sense til now. Much appreciated.
Usually I simply adjust the thermostat a few degrees cooler, wait for the blowing to stop, then change the filter in 2 seconds.
Thank you about advising against hi cost filters which strain the system.
I love this incredibly short, informative to the point, easy to understand video. I have been doing most of what was suggested, and will drop the high merv filters. I noticed the arrows, but wasn't sure which way to install, but fortunately, intuitively installed, and marked, the right way. As a senior on fixed income videos like these are much appreciated! Thanks!❤
Thanks for checking out the video
As an HVAC contractor/technician I think every home owner needs to watch this informative video. Mr. Holmes made a boatload of money misrepresenting the value of 3M Filtrete filters. Air quality is best achieved by using whole house air cleaners or a hepa whole house system.
Doesn't the furnace do the whole house as well?
@@MrWhatis yes the furnace supplies the whole house with heat and air conditioning. 1” high density filters create very restrictive air flow. This is hard on heat exchangers in the heating mode because it causes heat exchangers to get too hot. In the cooling mode it causes evaporator coils to freeze over. It shortens the life of blower motors because of over heating them with restricted air flow. Whole house air cleaners are better because they have more surface area for air movement to occur. HEPA air cleaning for whole house removes a certain amount of air from the return air duct and sends it through the HEPA cleaning filters and UV lights and reintroduces it back into the air stream of the house. Hope this clarifies things for you.
@@danobrien3109 i have run the 3m filters since the 90s before mike got his picture on it. furnace was installed in 1987. replace the fan motor in 2023. i notice the furnace was cycle on /off to cool heat exchanges, got 36 years out of it. yes there is a certain amount of resistance over nothing or filter that will not catch anything. but a good filter catching more and plugging up to me means it is doing it job. just needs to be change more often. I guess it comes down to want you want. cleaner air or make no difference . I thank you for your reply . 1 more question does the HEPA system run on the same duct work as the heating duct work?
@@MrWhatis I don’t disagree with anything you have said. Furnaces prior to the 90’s were generally PSC motors ( using a run capacitor) or belted motors. Both good motors and hard working. They both consumed more energy than ECM motors ( constant torque , no capacitor). ECM motors run using much less energy than either of the other two. This was and is one of the reasons ( not the only one ) that furnaces today are much more efficient than previous generations of furnaces. That being said these motors are not as tolerant with air flow restriction because they are not using an energy absorbing capacitor to help in the operation. As for your question on HEPA air cleaning. Yes it is incorporated into the existing duct work system, very much like an HRV . The difference between the two is that the HEPA filtration system does not exhaust stale out to the outside. It simply cleans it and reintroduces it back into the air stream of the duct work. Hope this helps to clarify what I said in my previous post.👍🇨🇦
it does help. thank you.. i understand it better, thank you, 1 more question , would changing the filter every 30 days (monthly) do you think that would prevent the new furnaces from over heating ? thank you again .
The best thing you can do is have a 4" filter track. The 4" MERV 8 filters will do a much better job. More surface area, increased dust holding capacity ( if you want to know if your filter is near the end of it's usefulness look on the back side and see if there is any dust bleed thru, if not it's still working, if it's discolored time to change it, don't go on what the up-stream side looks like, a good quality high capacity filter will look pretty horrendous before it has reached it's dust holding capacity) and consequently longer life, probably a year. Don't use the ultra cheap fiberglass filters, they are crap, we used to say they are good for dead birds and golf balls. MERV 11,12,13 pleated filters only get a high MERV rating because they are statically charged, once the charge dissipates after the filter is loaded with some dust it's no better than a MERV 8 and probably not even that good. Stick with a good quality MERV 8 and save your $. There is nothing stopping a filter mfg labeling their product with whatever MERV rating they want, it's the wild west when it comes to regulation, HEPA gets thrown around willy nilly too and it's all BS. Stick with the top brands in industrial filtration, I'd recommend Camfil.
Just moved into a new home. My furnace uses the big 16x25x4 filters and I bought Merv 11 since that is what I pulled out of the furnace and they were on sale for $20 each at home depot. I figure since we only run the furnace from Nov to April pretty much that I'd replace before every winter but think after watching your video I will replace twice a year at least. Thanks.
Great info. In my case changing the filters (we have two) is *easier* when the system is running. Our HVAC system is in the attic (1 story home) and has two returns - both located in the ceiling. The access covers swing down and the filters fall out. To replace them you have to align them just right as you close the cover. That is, unless the system is running. Then it holds them in place and you can pull the old one out easily, and it will hold the new one exactly in place while you close the cover.
I use FilterEasy subscription service - they send me filters on schedule. I had to check - I'm getting MERV 8s now. There is some dust in the house, but we have a dog, and construction going on in the area so that's to be expected.
Those one inch merv 13 filters use specialized materials that reduce static pressure very little. A TH-camr tested this after talking bad about these filters just to find the opposite. The static pressure between the merv 10 was actually higher than the merv 13.
They make the Merv 13 filters less restrictive by adding surface area via more pleats. Some people cannot grasp that concept. The extra area also allows them to hold more dirt before becoming restrictive. Check out the Project Farm video. th-cam.com/video/RkjRKIRva58/w-d-xo.html
This guy knows what he’s talking about especially regarding the filters. Spot on!!!
Not really. The high MERV filters actually flow better than the low ones due to having far more pleats (surface area). It's been tested numerous times using pressure differential before and after the filter. Look up filter tests on TH-cam. Project Farm has a great video on Furnace Filters.
@@n2omike No, you're wrong. I don't care what your "tests" say.
Our furnace person said go with Merv 7 & check them monthly
@@n2omike Test it yourself and let us know what you learn. Lots of channels to walk you through it. I do it every furnace install. Fiberglass filters always result in lowest external total static pressure across the furnace. Most furnaces are approved for only 0.5" total. That's return restriction PLUS supply restrictions. A lot of pleated filters tell you their static pressure drops approach .3 or .4" across ONLY the filter, when it's clean. Add the rest of the return, then supply system restriction to that and the furnace is now running over the 1/2" rating. Replacing ECM motor modules out of warranty can be pricey.
@@gadgethunter5732 Watch the video. I've had best luck with the drastically increased surface area of filters with a lot of pleats. A fine filter that is twice as big has more room to hold contaminants before it gets restrictive. It's why the 2" and 4" thick filters work so well. Watch the video. th-cam.com/video/RkjRKIRva58/w-d-xo.html
I use a black sharpie and write on the side of the filter when I change it. Been doing that for years.
Fantastic tips. Man was I making these mistakes arrow wrong way & 'top of the line' allergy filters. My direction error was because our furnace installer actually placed it wrong at time of install. I did as you suggested on my very first change, marking the direction. I'll scratch that out & relabel right after I hit 'comment' Thanks
Tip # 6, have your HVAC tech buy a pair of tin snips and slot in a thicker 3", 4" or 5" pleated filter. Now you can increase the MERV rating *without* added restriction. The $1 fiberglass filters basically last forever because they let everything through.
We went from a MERV8 to MERV11 and noticed a massive reduction in dust on everything. What I really want is a larger filter. 16x25x1 is too small! Should be illegal. They get filled too quickly. My sister's house is 3x mine and she has a 20x25x5(She uses a MERV2 or 3 1" as a pre-filter and a 4" MERV11). Changes it 2x a year(pre-filter every 3 months). I have to change mine almost monthly and she has 4x the cats I have ;-)
Thanks for the suggestion to add reminders on my phone! I hate that there is no audio reminder on the thermostat, just a visual one. But I have to look closely at the thermostat and since it’s programmed I rarely do.
Great video see you are showing my exact furnace , one thing I learned is a furnace is not designed to be an air purifier unit using high merv rated filters , they only make the blower motor work harder and shorten life . I use pleated filters but no higher than merv 4 used , wish they had a lower rated merv pleated filter , like a merv 2 . Less air restricton .
3:14, enough with the iPhone, you can put your filter replacement schedule on any phone, Android or iPhone. For those not in the know yet blinded by iPhone marketing, Samsung Galaxy provides more business features and truly better security as than the iPhone. For over eleven years I used the iPhone, from the 3Gs through XR, then switched to Samsung Note 20. Also, I supported iPhone for family, friends, and neighbors. So, yes I do know what I am talking about. With Samsung I do not experience any of the compromises I did with the iPhone.
great video, but I would recommend an alternative to your comments on the higher MERV filters. 1) in areas with relatively good outside air quality, a cheap filter is probably fine but you'll load up the coil faster with this; you are dead on about the fan energy. In this changing climate, it may make sense for some to keep a high MERV filter in storage and use that short term to help capture wildfire smoke for those of us dealing with this. 2) As a HVAC designer, I'd say the problem or handicap to avoid is to not install a 1" filter rack to begin with, for those at the point of purchasing a new system or new home. 4" deep should be a minimum, consider 6" or deeper if you can. yes, these filters are much, much more $$ but they last much longer, they have lower pressure drops for the same size and you can get the magic three of low PD, high filtration and high life with some extended media types that are available in these depths (mini-pleats, V-mini-pleats, etc.).
I live in Tennessee,,the climate changes 4 times a year.. a 1inch merv 8 filter works just fine.. lasts 3 to 6 months. Over designing of the systems just waste money without improving the quality..
Since our house was Built/New - 13 yrs ago I have used a Nordic Pure (Mer 8) filter 24x24x1 with 2 - 12x12x1 filters in each bedroom - I’ve kept the inside of the furnace spotless (cleaning before every winter) - condenser outside has mesh screens on all 4 sides & on top to keep all debris from plugging up fins - condensate lines are cleaned once a yr & flushed with bleach water.
Equipment is all Bryant & no issues ever - not one repair needed.
Changing a filter is super easy. Aak that a "filter pull" be installed when the return drop/90 is installed; a simple piece of angle. I've installed them 20 years. On an installation just yesterday, with a 16x24x1 filter, a simple piece of angle; 4x27x5/8" that runs 3" outside the return 90 as a handle/pull and the filter simply rests on, and acts as a pull for changing the filter. It simply rests in a the filter track. Easy peasy.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing this. Greetings from Ontario 😊
For many years, I used a 20"x25"X4" high end filter for our oil fired furnace. Two years ago, we finally converted to natural gas and installed an ultra high efficiency gas furnace with a variable speed, commutated D.C. motor. Oil furnace motor was replaced 8 years ago for $124 dollars. The gas furnace motor replacement is currently listed at $960 dollars. The technician stated that air restrictions were the biggest killer of these very expensive motors and recommended a change to a basic fiberglass 1 inch thick filter and more frequent filter changes. The 1 inch filter is changed every 2 months during winter and every 3 months during summer. Air flow and distribution has been improved and the 1 inch $8 dollar filters seem to grab more dust that the $65 dollar 4 inch filter ever did. A new gas furnace is never going to enjoy the lifespan of an older oil fired furnace, so it's important to maximize it's lifespan however possible.
Well I hope you're running HEPA air purifiers because inside a modern home has plenty of microplastics, particulates that are terrible for your respiratory system.
@@turtleh Yes, I do run two air purifiers that are HEPA rated for 99.97% efficiency, one on each floor level and each purifier is rated for 1600 sq. ft. of space.
Would love a close up of mistake number 2 and also a comparison of the same side of each of the filters for a good visual.
Yes, my filter got dirty faster than expected during the winter. In this apartment building, every apartment has its own furnace/water heater. But there was more. I also had so called fresh air being pumped into my apartment in the summer time via a window mounted dual fan. So just to see how clean that outdoor air was, I placed a 20" x 10" x 1" filter on the dual fan casing. It was pitch black after just 2 months.
I turn down the temp on the stat by 2 degrees. I also do this after the furnace cycle is done. Works just fine doing it this way.
I also just turn down the temp. To change the filter. I do it when the furnace shuts off.
The service tech told me that I was running too high of a Merv filter in the summer guess because duct work in 60 year old house are undersized. Like to use 2" wide painters tape to seal filter. Just wish all the filter manufacturers used one standard filter rating system like Merv. Best to purchase two or four at a time. As soon as I only have one left will pick up more on next trip to big box store.
I've settled on MERV 5 as optimal. MERV 4 gave dust clumps in areas, higher filtration gave high leaving air temperatures, which I didn't like heating the heat exchanger. Dust is satisfactorily under control with MERV 5.
MERV 5 is perfect
@@adamsteele6148 Thanks. Was wondering what others think since marketing, I believe, is excessive or slightly fear mongering.
@@louf7178 my heat pump quit whining the moment I replaced my merv 11 with merv 5 in the dead of winter when the system works the hardest
@@adamsteele6148 Excellent. I really like to warn people against higher filter efficiencies, but that gets rejected because of hyper-health concerns (not undesirable). There are drawbacks that typical residential equipment isn't built to withstand - mainly higher air restriction leading to lower airflow leading to high heat exchanger temperatures or possibly evaporator coil freezing. And the cost of running higher filter efficiencies. (Telling the truth, I've even vacuumed my filter instead of buying a new one each time, and it seems to be fine.)
I was convinced Jason was your brother until you introduced him! You guys have a very similar chill, knows what he’s doing, vibe.
Anyway loved this video, thanks!
I love the bloopers at the end of the video:). The video was very informative and it's full of great and very useful tips and information. Keep up the great work. Please will you do a video on how to fix your furnace when it makes a loud thump or bang noise when it turns on then:)?
I've used those higher merv filters since 2002 in the same HVAC system, and have never had to replace ANY components or parts, except for an AC capacitor. I DO change the filter monthly, but purchasing them on sale at Costco, comes out to about $9 a filter, and I'm ok with that, especially when it results in more highly-filtered air in my house.
I use the reminder function in my thermostat. It reminds you after a fixed number of run hours. So during winter and summer replacements are almost monthly, in spring and fall maybe every 2-3 months. Calendar time doesn't account for how much air the filter has had to process.
If you use a cheap filter, dust will clog your air conditioning coil or heat pump coil after a few years. It's very difficult to clean those coils as they have very delicate fins that are hard to reach.
This is why friends dont let friends ever use washable or fiberglass filters. Its also hard on your fan motor to be coated in dust too. More dust on the furniture also.
This guy is 100% on the money. People dropping $15 - $20 for a MERV 20 furnace filter are wasting their money (money and energy cost). The filter is NOT for you......the filter is designed to protect the heat exchanger and AC evap coil!!!!!! Cheers!
Yes those 20 mev filters are really bad but on the other side, the fiberglass ones are nearly useless. We call them "leaf catchers" in the biz. What you want is the cheapest pleated filter.
Fiberglass filters are used to remove lint from the airflow, and not much else, so it does not build up in the furnace.
If you are having the HVAC system installed, require that they install a slot that will accept a 2 inch or 4 inch pleated filter. You will get the better airflow and still get dust, pollen, and other allergens removed while getting a good air flow. And they will last a lot longer as well.
Good watch. The arrows especially. Change out twice a year. 16x25x4. Up and downstairs.
Great tips. I have an older furnace where the filter sits at an angle behind a cover. I found that I have room for a 2 inch thick filter. There is better air flow because the deeper folds almost double the surface area of the filter material.
I changed my one inch filter to a 4 inch filter, because the one inch filter was in the way of a drain pipe and didn’t fit in there right. Put the 4 inch filter to the other side with a magnetic door, I love it
Metal coat hanger...cut the long piece off, bend a small hook on one end, a larger on the other, use the small hook to pull filter out and leave the 'hook' on the cold air return just above the filter always there when you need it.
Generally the filter is in place to keep dust and dirt from settling in the refrigeration coils and gas burners, only partially for cleaning the air you breathe. If you’ve ever seen the interior of an air handler after not having a filter in place you’ll know what I mean.
When it comes to the quality, whatever you see on the good filter when you change it would've been in your lungs.
I can see clear as day through those blue fiberglass ones
Just my 2 cents
friends dont let friends use leaf catcher fiberglass filters
What are your thoughts on using 1" filters vs the larger 4" filters and the frequency of changing those out? My unit will accommodate both sizes.
Do not leave your fan running 24/7 during cooling season. Your AC pulls the humidity from your home to the evap coil. Once the temp is met the system shuts down and the humidity drains off the coil and out the drain. If the fan stays running it will blow the moisture, thus the humidity back into the home. Heating season, have at it.
No it does not. It runs at a much lower speed which doesn't pull the moisture off. Funny part is that even when running at max speed for cooling, your a/c is still draining properly and the moisture isn't flying around. This comment is false information
@maxell3655 I've been doing HVAC for over 6 years, and yes, leaving your blower on during cooling season will cause humidity issues. I've seen plenty of floors and cabinets ruined due to it.
@@handlesaredumb1 nice! Glad to see someone trying to find solutions to try and help the consumer. Well small background, 2nd generation HVAC tech, highest level of certification to achieve in my country for over 12 years now.
Anyways, sure, you could have an extremely small percentage of the water evaporates into the air that didn't drain while it was running. Now metal drain pans always rot, systems that had the drain line plug and the drain pan overflow will cause excessive rotting of everything underneath the coil.
Now that you mention the humidity thing. I am sure that you are well aware that as long as it's above zero inside or outside the house that evaporation is always happening. That raises humidity. Houses are not sealed 100% which means they are prone to air exchange from leakage, if it's above freezing, humidity is coming in. Any standing water in a toilet, a cup, bowl, drain is always evaporating inside a house. Water sitting in your drain pan of your evaporator will also evaporate and one could argue that not running the fan would cause that specific areas by the evaporator to eventually go up to 100% humidity until the fan turns on again to move that humid air away from materials that can rust.
I have lived in a house that had the fan run constantly as it was a 4 level split to keep all the floors closer to the same temperature. That fan only stopped running the day it died after almost 16 years. Then we replaced it later that day and kept it running.
@maxell3655 How many generations have we had "professionals with the highest certifications" do things wrong? Lead pipes for drinking water and paint, for example. I don't know where you live, but in the southern US having the blower on all the time during the summer will cause issues. Best thing for people to do is try it and see for themselves, instead of listening to two strangers argue online.
@@handlesaredumb1 you aren't wrong. Can't always be right. Have to know your area. I live way way north of you. Been working with equipment that's over 40 years old where the blower has never shut off and it still looks immaculate inside. But where I am, only time that you see a rusty situation is when it is related to a drain pan that has overflowed. Outside of that, don't really see anything unless the house itself has moisture problems that isn't related to the equipment.
Maybe you guys down there need to slow the fan speed down in a/c to pull more humidity out of the air to help combat the moisture problems a bit
Excellent information. In my case I'm always confused. Now I'm sure how i have to do it
The fiberglass filters, according to some sources and project farm on yt, you really shouldn't use a fiberglass filter if you care about air quality at all. Merv8 has a negligible effect on static pressure and filters almost 4x as many particles out.
We use merv12 and definitely can tell a difference in interior air quality over merv8. With fiberglass, ugh... would be allergy city.
Exactly. This HVAC expert is 100% wrong in his filter assumptions, and took zero account of the surface area (number of pleats) in the High Merv filter such as the 3M 1900 (Merv 13) Project Farm video is spot on with data collection.
I agree, I wouldn't even consider using that fiberglass filter.
Thanks for the temperature lowering tip. Will do.
My neighbor didn’t change his filter for 28 years. The HVAC was working but it cooled better after he changed it.
Great video, I always use Merv 8 filters and replace them at a maximum 3 month intervals, keep a reminder on my iPad calendar.
I use FPR-5 filters (Home Depot's brand) which are ~equivalent to MERV 8.
A HVAC guy once told me (YEARS ago)< if you can see though a filter, it's ain't filtering much. True, and pretty obvious isn't it. For me, FPR5/MERV 8 are WAY better than see-through (useless) cheap fiberglass filters, yet they don't compromise/redistrict airflow. Win-Win.
And my size filters (16x25x1) are only $11.96/5-pack. Nice. My apt complex uses the cheap fiberglass ones (seems like ALL complexes do), but I go with the better ones. And replace them every 90 days.
-- BR
Why is no mention made about a filter access cover to prevent unfiltered air from being drawn into the system at the gaps around the filter?
most filters have a little peel up pull tab on the side near the top or bottom corner which you can use to pull the filter out.
I think a bigger mistake is homeowners trying to be as cheap as possible when getting a furnace installed. 1in filter cavities is cheap, and dumb. Just throw a few extra bucks at it and spec a 3 or 4 inch filter, maybe a bit more to stack a charcoal prefilter. Less pressure drop, less electricity, less cost for filters over time, and less frequent filter changes at the cost of a few more bucks up front.
Thank you, from an old lady who is hanging on for dear life❣️💪🏼💪🏼👵🤗😘
Except that the 3M Filtrete 1900 model you have in your hand has one of the best air flow ratings of all filters. Due to the extreme number of pleats (thus why it's more expensive), even though it's a MERV 13 filter it has significantly better resistance ratings at any CFM than the majority of air filters, even ones of a much lower MERV rating.
I have put a Filtrate 1900 in changing out every 3 months which is excessive given I live alone, have no pets, and vacuum twice a month. I started using the 'charcoal' Merv 11 filter as activated charcoal (claim) filters out odours etc. It's cooking odours that drive me nuts because they seem to linger so long. This is very subjective and I've only had it had for a couple of weeks. I have a high eff furnace ( brings in outside air for combustion not recirc indoor air) and for all I can read a Merv 11 will satisfy most needs. If I had pets, kids, etc I would go back to the 1900 changing more frequently i.e. holding it up to a light to get an idea of how dirty it has become.
Really interesting and informative video. Thank you both very much.
Thanks Pete, appreciate you buddy🍻
I came up recently with understanding that in most of the cases change your filter idea is the marketing scam. Yes, filter should be changed, if it is dirty. But how do you know if it's dirty or not? Why would anyone need to swap it once in 3 month? How often someone using furnace? How often you are opening your doors/windows etc. Do you have air purifier or not? So many variables in the formula. I changed my last filter probably around year ago. During summer in the most of the cases I am using split units in living and master bedroom. Change your filters only when it is really needed.
check your filter. If it's dirty, change it
@@toddlavigne6441 if not dirty, dont change it. Only a mindless sheep isnt smart enough to figure this out
Ok, so it comes down to where you live in the USA. I live in the desert southwest. We change our A/C filter monthly and every other month in the winter.
The video is good, the fabric filter generates more static pressure than the fiber filters. I don't know why they recommend them. The fiber ones tend to get dirty faster but allow a better air flow. Greetings.
We use MERV 16 with carbon 3” pleated filters in our HVAC system. Not much price difference between 13 and 16. They're available on Amazon.
Wasting money,,,,merv 8 pleat is all you need... you are not a hospital.
@@craigk965 Helpful for those with allergies or breathing issues.
You dont need that high of a merv, but definitely stick with pleated. Keep in mind, the higher the merv the more stress you cause to the indoor fan motor (shortening its lifespan).
i make a loop out of masking tape on the filter with the date of install. makes removing so easy.
Thank you for the tips, I would have never thought of these
Whole house furnace filter for asthma.... Would love to see a video of that! I have two kids with asthma.
There's a paper tab bent over and glued to the top of the filter frame. You can see it in the video. Pull the tab up and pull out to remove the filter.
Great tips and thanks for posting! We have a 5" filter in our furnace. A MERV 11. I have to admit, I pay about $50 for a filter and to be honest, I only change it once a year. If I had to change the filter 4 or 5 times a year, I'd go broke. I've never had a problem yet. Actually after a year even with 2 dogs in the house, the filter doesn't look that bad.
I love this channel but I have to say there is a common and important misunderstanding about these filters that Jason not only didn't cover but perpetuated. The air resistance that any filter gives isn't only related to it's MERV rating. A high quality (typically more expensive) filter can have a lower air resistance than a lower MERV filter of lower quality. Lower air resistance is achieved with more pleats (increased total surface area) and better/higher performing filter material. Good filters manufacturers print both their MERV rating and their "initial resistance", given in IWC on the filter itself. This is sort of like inferior olive oil that doesn't include acid level on the label. I like to buy from a brand that is up front and proud of their product's specs.
Jason did preface what he said with "for people with 1 inch filters..." but makes no mention of how a bigger filter package of 2, 3, 4 even 5 inches results in lower air resistance for for a given MERV due to the larger surface area.
Change mine every month in the winter, No AC. I can hear a difference in the air flow. and know it's time.
so for #1 issue - what if you have a larger / thick filter? (4")?
It’s my understanding that the 4” wide filters are lot easier on your furnace even with higher MERV ratings.
@@TheFunnyCarpenterThanks for the reply.
I have one too, Aprilaire on a Carrier Heat Pump & house 2 has a Carrier Gas Furnace with Central Air. Both are changed once per year.
@@emiller7040 aprilaire as well and I also go 1 year with my 4 inch filters.
Whoa Funny Man!!!! Almost 500k subs? I remember way back in the dark ages when you had like….. 10-15k! Thanks
🇦🇺 I thought that was you! I had to watch it twice. 😊
It’s close!
I got a pair of plastic putty knives that I use to pull out the old air filter. I put one on each side of the filter, twist them just a little, and pull the filter out. I keep them in my furnace room.
This is one thing I envy American houses for. The houses seem to usually have good air conditioning with air circulation and to some extent dust filtration. Here in Europe houses rarely have that kinda stuff. Even just AC is rare here
I knew instantly the voice was different. I had to double check & make sure it was your channel. lol excellent info. as always !!
Much appreciated!
Put the installation date on the filter
My HVAC guy is retired after working 40 years in the business, he says to use an inexpensive, pleated filter. I'm his words, the filter is mainly there to protect the furnace, NOT purify the air.
I use two HEPA filter air circulators around the house, and get decent-but-cheaper pleated filters.
This video caught my eye because I have the identical furnace. When they installed it, I suggested that they put a row of my concrete bricks under it because a one inch flood of water in the next 20 years is likely, and who wants water in their steel furnace? They raised their eyebrows and decided it was a great idea. Already paid off when the grandkids overflowed the toilet with tissue. :) I see here a water tank beside the furnace. It has a tray but that pressure relief valve.... they do fail!
I think that is a good idea. I've always wondered why that isn't more common, especially if you have the ceiling height.
Used to change my Merv 11 filters every 3 months like clockwork. Just had a service call and it turns out, the Merv 11 filters are blocking too much air flow and my furnace was overheating. HVAC tech put in a cheap fiberglass filter and in 30 days, I will make sure to replace with another "cheap" filter and then as recommended, go no higher than a MERV 8 filter and change every 2 months and not 3. Cost me $89 for a service call but luckily, my new system has a safety sensor which kept shutting down the furnace but the recycling of on and off again was what prompted me to call the HVAC company in the first place. Still cheaper than having my furnace catch fire, right?
The fiberglass filter is 0 to 5% efficient..the merv 8 pleat is the one you want..
@@craigk965Went to Home Depot yesterday and purchased a pack of Merv 8 filters!
@@craigk965 completely agree. fiberglass are only good for catching leaves, but doesnt protect your coil or fan motor very well at all. Go to the lowest Merv pleated filter instead
Excellent info. Definite bookmark this video.
Glad you think so!
Some good tips there, question i installed a forced hot air furnace in my garage. I'm getting a slight odor, and I get a feeling like I'm a little high, I haven't ran it much but I felt that 2 to 3 times already other people didn't get that when we went in there together. The only thing I could think that could be causing slight oder and maybe that high feeling is the metal 3m foil tape on my exhaust pipe, I put it on all around all my pipes joints and seems. Maybe it needs a good run to burn it off, maybe it's the glue on the tape that I'm smelling. Did you ever hear about this happening to any other people in your field of work. I also have a carbon monoxide detector that is brand new, and it don't go off. But works when I hit the test button. Thanks any help will be appreciated
I have the same filter setup as in the video. My furnace has such air pull that it nearly pulls the filter into the blower. Sometimes pulling the filter out to check it or change it, the filter is all messed up and hard to get out of the slot.
Great clear video. Thank you! Question - how about K&N reusable air filters. Are you a fan?
I have a Heba365 filter. Its change time is normally once a year. But usually I can go 1 1/4 year. But it requires a little work on the cold air duct to fit it in initially.