@arabelladenine8566 Grow up son and stop posting immature disgusting filth on a public forum, especially owned by a young lady. Learn what it is to be a real man, a true gentleman of moral character.
On my 1949 8n I had power to my coil, conductivity Through my distributor, and still no spark. With the test light it showed a solid light while cranking as mentioned I thought I had a points and condenser issue, so I rebuilt the distributor and still no change in symptoms. I happened to have an extra coil wire resistor and it fixed my issue. Now I have the flashing light while cranking/running. Thank you for all you do. A lot of us couldn’t do what we can now without you!!!!
I posted this a few days ago that I am getting 1.3 volts at the coil… decided to pull out the distributor, change the ballast resistor and key switch…it has not started in 5 months…decided to try to see if it all was at least properly wired and setup… Started INSTANTLY with what ever fuel was left in the steel fuel line. Honestly, it started like it had fuel injection!! Thanks for the great detail in ALL of your videos
Hands down Rachel does the best tutorials. The very thorough explanation she gives delivers the confidence I need to move forward with my own repairs. Production quality is also top notch.
Back in the mid 60's I learned all about ignition systems by working on my father's 9N. It was always in the original 6 volts. heavy handed goofs break off the stud on the top of the coil. It is just brass so it doesn't need much tightening. A good electric tester is great for somebody who knows how to use one. A couple weeks after doing a rebuild (1978) like you did, the tractor wouldn't start. I could see that there was no spark so setting the tester for continuity I began checking the distributor like you showed and everything checked out okay. I checked the field wire on top of the coil to the ignition switch and there was no reading with the switch on or off so I checked out the wire behind the battery and found that it runs into a resistor mounted on the inside of the dashboard. The resistor was bad and that shut it down. In all these restoring old Fords videos, nobody mentions the resistor.
Couldn't ask for a better more confident instructor. 👍 My 9N just died coming across the field today. Getting fuel but no spark. With the rotor and coil in the nearly inaccessible front of the engine area I wasn't too happy. Watched this video which made it easier than it actually looked and along with a dirty ignition system found a dead condenser. These N series tractors are workhorses worth keeping alive. You and your dad are a big help in keeping them alive. 👍
Someday you may love the front distributor. I once hated them. until I understood them. Now I love them. Very easy to time. they only go together like butter when timed right. if you have to force it. Its not right. even at 180 its not right. If its harder then putting two piece of bread together its off. funny thing is. its easy with one hand once you understand. But until you understand its very hard. 1st time I got it right. I was dreading having to so it. And it slipped together. I took it off 5 times because I thought something was wrong with how easy it was. I've never had a hard time since.
I had to rebuild my distributor and I watched this video because I had no idea what I was doing. I bought the part from their site for cheap and BAM!!! GOT HER FIXED!! Note: The only reason I knew I had to rebuild my distributor was because of Rachel's other videos. lol!
Thank you for the great repair parts and for your tutorials! My '47 now starts with one brief touch of the starter switch and runs smooth! Customer for life!
As usual, another great video! However, at 4:40 you describe how the distributor can fit back onto the motor if the rotor is 180 degrees off. The two tabs on the distributor that fit into the center of the cam gear are offset from the center of rotation. The distributor will not fit properly on the motor unless the tabs are correctly aligned with the slots in the cam gear. You might be able to force it back on, and break things in the process, but it will be obvious that something is not correct. With the distributor loosely attached with one, or both, of the bolts, but not fully seated on the motor, the distributor housing should fit smoothly and flush to the cover. If not, slowly rotate the rotor until the tabs engage in the cam gear slots. The rotor will only go on the rotor shaft one way, and the distributor will only mount to the motor one way. However, as you stated, if you pay attention to the position of the rotor when the distributor is removed, and no one rotates the crankshaft, then assembly will be easy.
Great point Mike, I installed mine 180 out and dismissed the increased threading torque as I tightened her down.... the distributor doesn't turn anymore....!
It seems these TH-camrs all watch each other’s videos and they all emphasize this same point about rotor position. Anyone who has actually worked on the distributor at all knows it only fits one way!😂
I just got my new-to-me 8n running after 23 years of sitting in a field. I legitimately couldn't have done it without your videos. Now that I know it runs, I'm looking forward to ordering a laundry list of parts from you!
Dan you’re a lucky man!!! Thank you Rachel. Very detailed. I’ve watched many of these videos in my time with my tractor. You paid so much attention to detail. Something lacking in many of the other videos I’ve watched
I want to thank you so much for this video..last time I replaced my points in my 9n was 25 years ago and I removed the hood and radiator. This was so much easier and your step by step made it so simple..im a gardener here on TH-cam and am now ready to disk my garden to get ready to plant...thanks again.. Rick
I really enjoy watching your videos...I might have mentioned that there is no hesitation in your presentations...It is refreshing that you aren't trying to win an oscar or try to make jokes about what you do...you are a natural...
Dan and Rachel, Your tutorials have been a great help to me and my 48 8n. Recently the poor thing would die and refuse to start. I watched and used all the tests Rachel showed on the distributor video. When I got to testing to see if my points were open/closed, half way through a good test the power went out. Turns out the ignition key barrel has a loose contact. If the key moved a bit...dead. I was able to track it down with Rachel's help. Thanks. Your prices are competitive as well, I am sure my 8n will be getting it's share of parts from you guys.
Rachel, I found a great set of 2 large clamps, & 2 small clamps to go onto the VOM leads at Menards. Thank you for helpful videos. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
Another win!! Thank you for your insights and knowledge. I was able to diagnose and repair my 8n thanks to you and the products I ordered from you. You guys are awesome.
Hello, I just moved to Goodrich, Mi, and purchased a small farm off Dutch Road. I stopped in at the Steiner Tractor store for a look around and to purchase a front tractor emblem for my old 8n! I took 1 photo of my wife sitting in a chair and the counter clerk told me no taking pictures in the store. He demeaned me in front of another customer, and my wife! I don't plan to return to Steiners or make further purchases from them. (Occurred on Monday, July 17, 2023)
Great video! Couple of suggestions in removing distributor from 9n front mount. Do yourself a favor and loosen generator and push it in so as to move fan belt out of way. I had to remove distributor three times and re-attach three times. Before I wised up and got that darn fan belt out of the way, it took an hour each side to get the bolt off, and didn’t attach the distributor correctly ‘cause I couldn’t see it right, and wrecked one. Nice! Second/third time, I moved the fan belt - and removing and re-attaching distributor took only 5 minutes each side and could now see that the distributor was lined up correctly with the engine. I also found that you only tighten one side half way then tighten the other side. Easy Then! The third time I attached the distributor and coil ( I put them in attached before installing) I first did a bench test as I still wasn’t getting spark after the second time. This is what I did (after watching videos AND bugging my mechanic): With distributor and coil attached on my bench, I hooked up (via wire with alligator clips) 1x wire from positive post of battery to body of distributor. A second wire (also with alligator clips on both ends) -had that end to the negative post of battery, and other end to the Coil’s top post. I then attached a spark plug wire to a distributor port, hooked up a spark plug, and touched it to the distributor body while turning the slotted end. I got spark! I did this for all 4 distributor ports, each sparking as it hit their sweet spot. After the 1st plug sparked, the second didn’t, so I opened the distributor and shined up the brass screw where the twisty thing on the coil bottom touches it. After that better connection, the test on all four distributor ports produced spark. Also for the 9n the gap on points is .15 not .25. But whatever! Great video! Followed your instruction to the T, and it worked. Followed your carb video to the T, and that worked too! Smart young lady
Rachel, I am getting a 1.3 voltage at the coil while running this test with a fully charged 6.5 volt battery, obviously not enough to fire the plugs…where is my next measurement going to be? I prefer to solve this prior to installing the premium 12v conversion I got from you last January 2023…. Yup, been in the shop waiting. I have a Dearborn loader and it is tight in there. Hood has been removed for better access
Really appreciate your videos! Just ordered all the parts for my 850 top-end rebuild from you. Figured you earned it after all the free education! Just wish you weren't sold out of push rods. Those are like hen's teeth right now.
Great videos! Very articulate and entertaining. After watching this video,, I just ordered a bunch of distributer parts from your parts site. Super prices and the added confidence I'm getting the right thing for my machine. Thank you!
Great tutorial. i actually went ahead and ordered this tuning kit and shipping was fast and i got everything i needed. outstanding service, and there site was very easy to use. i highly recommend Dan and Rachel for your tractor needs. thanks guys.
Good video. The troubleshooting can be applied to most distributor ignitions on engines so hopefully as many people as possible watch this and benefit from your run through.
I have the old front distributor on my 8n. It was a pain in the butt until I put in a set of expensive points and modified it to take the round style coil. It runs like a champ now and I cut hay and plow snow with it.
point of fact, at around 4:50; you can NOT install this distributor 180deg. out of phase. the shaft is offset so it only fits one way. if you manage to get the bolts to line up and threaded that way, the shaft will be pressed out by about a quarter inch causing the distributor cap to not fit. if that happens, you have to press the shaft back in (by press i mean lightly tap it with a hammer and hope the bearing doesn't pop out). i learned this the hard way :)
I always love your videos, I have learned so much from you. The only thing I can add to this video is the cam on the back of the distributor is offset so it will only install one way. If you get it 180 out you will break the case when you tighten the bolt. Don't ask me how I know this.🤣🤣🤣 Great job young lady. You are an inspiration to us all.
The video covers the bases well but as an old time Ford tractor collector I have some additional advice. The anti seize lubricant has tiny particles of aluminum in it to give it anti seize properties and this feature of the lubricant isn’t necessary for a rotating shaft. A small amount of any high temperature grease will work. A little bit should also be applied to the top part of the shaft and a tiny amount to the lobes of the rotating cam. I use a high tech Teflon containing grease sold for use on guns and available at any gun shop. There is such a thing as high temp distributor grease but it’s very hard to find. There IS a procedure for setting the timing that is described in service manuals, either Ford’s own manual (reprinted) or the aftermarket manual sold on this website. It’s frustrating and you need three hands to do it but it can be done. If there is much looseness and ability to wiggle the shaft laterally in the top and bottom bushings it’s worn out and you need a rebuilt or new distributor. I own 9N52, the fourth oldest N tractor known to exist plus 11 more N’s so I’m pretty familiar with them.
According to your coil/distributer electrical test with the tester, as long as your tester is flashing, that should confirm firing correctly. Correct? If solid light, points are stuck closed? If not lighting at all, points are not closing or bad coil? I'm a FIY person, not a mechanic but find your instructional videos helpful. You move a little fast for us old folk but I can stop, rewind and playback. Unfortunately, that's a lot for me. If yourself or any viewer can comment on my post to help out, feel free. Any advice may be good advice.
yes Mike you are rite I've got a 1949 8n and the dist goes on one way only you can't hardly make a mistake unless you force it, then some thing is going to break.
Thanks for the video, however I wish you had done one on a side mount distributor for an 8n as nobody has a video on later Ford 8N’s with the side mount distributor. I own a 1952 8N.
Nice video but you do know front mount dist. Can only install one way the key way is offset. But it's still go to remember where the rotor should be pointing to install. I do really like all your videos.
I have rebuilt everything you did in the video and still no spark! I hooked up the distributor to the battery and the points are sparking when they touch. Just replaced the spark plugs wires about two weeks ago. It just stopped running last week. I am getting voltage at the top and bottom of the coil too. Im also getting Elms going through the distributor as well. After all of this, it’s still not hitting. Any help??? Thanks!
thanks for all the great info. I am having trouble with no spark. I am restoring a 8n front distributor all new parts 6v to coil no spark out. Good ground dont understand why. any help would be greatly appreciated
Rachel's distributor visual is really good, however she didn't cover last step, reinstalling distributor to engine. The drive part on engine has a notch on one side and the distributor connection has stamp on one side. Do you align these two?
Well I don't have an 8N Ford tractor but you're smartness help me on my j20 ditch Witcher to get it going thank you very much you're a very smart girl I should say young lady have a great day
Another really helpful video. Just curious- why continue to use points at all? Why not eliminate them with a modern solution like a Pertronix kit? That way, you don't have to worry about wear and adjustment ever again.
So Rachel you make great videos to the point and extremely helpful, your old man must be proud. have you done any 12 volt conversion videos I have a Ferguson TO 30 and am thinking of doing it to the old beast.
Thats funny. I just seen a video that the guy said all Fergeson were 12v. He made a lot of mistakes about 9N to 8n as well. And he also said All Fergeson were overhead valve. When I swore I've seen some TO 20 that were flatheads. I through they were 8n at the junkyard but the owner said they were Fergeson.
I have a 1949 8N with a very bad block.it’s been broken and welded but not very well. I’ve found a couple motors, 1 out of an 9N . 2, the other one is out of a TE 20. My question is are they interchangeable? I was given the tractor so I’m not concerned about spending some money.. I live in Alberta, Canada so getting parts can be a challenge. Thnx in advance for any information you can give me
I have a '41 9N. I have only had it running for a few weeks. It runs really well, but it will just randomly stop running and when I go to start it, it's like it has no power. If I let is sit for a while, it starts back up as if nothing ever happened. It seems like a simple solution, like there is something that turns itself off, maybe because it overheats? The longest I can run the tractor is around 10 minutes at a time. I think the previous owner took everything apart and painted everything. It looks real good, but I'm thinking there may be paint in between some ground connections. I was having a problem where the battery ground bolt was heating up. I took it apart, sanded the frame and put it back on and that problem went away.
My tractor will not start but if I tow it it will start right up. every thing is new. It ran fine until I put all new parts on. Any suggestions. Thank you.
Thanks for the video nice job I'm looking to buy some parts from you for mine, I do have a question do you have a video on the rebuild of the transmission of a 9n ford?
How do i know which coil to buy for my 8N? it has a 12v alternator converted to it already but i dont know the history of the the tractor on if the complete wiring was converted as well, how do i figure out if i need 6v or 12v coil? or is just automatically needing 12v coil because it has a 12v alternator?
I am 60 years old and I have learned so from this young lady, thank you very much
Hola sr.villalpando, sabrá usted si se puede conseguir para el 9n partes para carburador, tengo un 9n me consume mucha gasolina.
Le agradezco.
I'm 65. My 8 n B. Is 4 years older than me. This tractor has served me well for the past 25 years. 😮 I woñder which one of us will crap out last😢.
@arabelladenine8566
Grow up son and stop posting immature disgusting filth on a public forum, especially owned by a young lady.
Learn what it is to be a real man, a true gentleman of moral character.
On my 1949 8n I had power to my coil, conductivity Through my distributor, and still no spark. With the test light it showed a solid light while cranking as mentioned I thought I had a points and condenser issue, so I rebuilt the distributor and still no change in symptoms. I happened to have an extra coil wire resistor and it fixed my issue. Now I have the flashing light while cranking/running. Thank you for all you do. A lot of us couldn’t do what we can now without you!!!!
I posted this a few days ago that I am getting 1.3 volts at the coil… decided to pull out the distributor, change the ballast resistor and key switch…it has not started in 5 months…decided to try to see if it all was at least properly wired and setup…
Started INSTANTLY with what ever fuel was left in the steel fuel line. Honestly, it started like it had fuel injection!! Thanks for the great detail in ALL of your videos
Hands down Rachel does the best tutorials. The very thorough explanation she gives delivers the confidence I need to move forward with my own repairs. Production quality is also top notch.
I'm 64 years old you're a amazing young lady, thank you for teaching me so much.
Back in the mid 60's I learned all about ignition systems by working on my father's 9N. It was always in the original 6 volts. heavy handed goofs break off the stud on the top of the coil. It is just brass so it doesn't need much tightening. A good electric tester is great for somebody who knows how to use one. A couple weeks after doing a rebuild (1978) like you did, the tractor wouldn't start. I could see that there was no spark so setting the tester for continuity I began checking the distributor like you showed and everything checked out okay. I checked the field wire on top of the coil to the ignition switch and there was no reading with the switch on or off so I checked out the wire behind the battery and found that it runs into a resistor mounted on the inside of the dashboard. The resistor was bad and that shut it down. In all these restoring old Fords videos, nobody mentions the resistor.
Ya, I always check out commentary,could be a resistor,thanks
The people who don't allow commentary
Are always commenting
You seem to be the most knowledgeable 8N mechanic on youtube, you for sure have the most comprehensible videos of anyone.
Couldn't ask for a better more confident instructor. 👍 My 9N just died coming across the field today. Getting fuel but no spark. With the rotor and coil in the nearly inaccessible front of the engine area I wasn't too happy. Watched this video which made it easier than it actually looked and along with a dirty ignition system found a dead condenser. These N series tractors are workhorses worth keeping alive. You and your dad are a big help in keeping them alive. 👍
Someday you may love the front distributor.
I once hated them. until I understood them.
Now I love them.
Very easy to time. they only go together like butter when timed right.
if you have to force it. Its not right.
even at 180 its not right.
If its harder then putting two piece of bread together its off.
funny thing is. its easy with one hand once you understand.
But until you understand its very hard.
1st time I got it right. I was dreading having to so it.
And it slipped together.
I took it off 5 times because I thought something was wrong with how easy it was.
I've never had a hard time since.
I had to rebuild my distributor and I watched this video because I had no idea what I was doing. I bought the part from their site for cheap and BAM!!! GOT HER FIXED!!
Note: The only reason I knew I had to rebuild my distributor was because of Rachel's other videos. lol!
The great thing about your videos Rachel is that you don't edit out your mistakes. Nice one
This world needs more talented lady’s like you!! What a breath of fresh air, simply amazing.
That tractor started amazing!!! My tractor never started that easy, why I'm here!!!
Thank you for the great repair parts and for your tutorials! My '47 now starts with one brief touch of the starter switch and runs smooth! Customer for life!
Thanks a lot. I am the owner of a 1946 front distributor y this videos help me a lot. Congratulations.
As usual, another great video! However, at 4:40 you describe how the distributor can fit back onto the motor if the rotor is 180 degrees off. The two tabs on the distributor that fit into the center of the cam gear are offset from the center of rotation.
The distributor will not fit properly on the motor unless the tabs are correctly aligned with the slots in the cam gear. You might be able to force it back on, and break things in the process, but it will be obvious that something is not correct. With the distributor loosely attached with one, or both, of the bolts, but not fully seated on the motor, the distributor housing should fit smoothly and flush to the cover. If not, slowly rotate the rotor until the tabs engage in the cam gear slots.
The rotor will only go on the rotor shaft one way, and the distributor will only mount to the motor one way. However, as you stated, if you pay attention to the position of the rotor when the distributor is removed, and no one rotates the crankshaft, then assembly will be easy.
Great point Mike, I installed mine 180 out and dismissed the increased threading torque as I tightened her down.... the distributor doesn't turn anymore....!
It seems these TH-camrs all watch each other’s videos and they all emphasize this same point about rotor position. Anyone who has actually worked on the distributor at all knows it only fits one way!😂
I just got my new-to-me 8n running after 23 years of sitting in a field. I legitimately couldn't have done it without your videos. Now that I know it runs, I'm looking forward to ordering a laundry list of parts from you!
Thanks for the tutorial. It helped me diagnose my spark issues. My 9n is running like a champ 🏆 💪 🙌
Dan you’re a lucky man!!! Thank you Rachel. Very detailed. I’ve watched many of these videos in my time with my tractor. You paid so much attention to detail. Something lacking in many of the other videos I’ve watched
I want to thank you so much for this video..last time I replaced my points in my 9n was 25 years ago and I removed the hood and radiator. This was so much easier and your step by step made it so simple..im a gardener here on TH-cam and am now ready to disk my garden to get ready to plant...thanks again..
Rick
ps..you have a new follower now 😊
Another excellent informative video as always! God bless.
I'm currently extensively restoring a 1949 Ford 8N, and I just got it running again.
M still shocked this lady is good. I like her tutorials, wish to buy a tractor now. M inspired
I really enjoy watching your videos...I might have mentioned that there is no hesitation in your presentations...It is refreshing that you aren't trying to win an oscar or try to make jokes about what you do...you are a natural...
Dan and Rachel,
Your tutorials have been a great help to me and my 48 8n. Recently the poor thing would die and refuse to start. I watched and used all the tests Rachel showed on the distributor video. When I got to testing to see if my points were open/closed, half way through a good test the power went out. Turns out the ignition key barrel has a loose contact. If the key moved a bit...dead. I was able to track it down with Rachel's help. Thanks.
Your prices are competitive as well, I am sure my 8n will be getting it's share of parts from you guys.
Rachel, I found a great set of 2 large clamps, & 2 small clamps to go onto the VOM leads at Menards.
Thank you for helpful videos.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Another win!! Thank you for your insights and knowledge. I was able to diagnose and repair my 8n thanks to you and the products I ordered from you. You guys are awesome.
Hello, I just moved to Goodrich, Mi, and purchased a small farm off Dutch Road. I stopped in at the Steiner Tractor store for a look around and to purchase a front tractor emblem for my old 8n! I took 1 photo of my wife sitting in a chair and the counter clerk told me no taking pictures in the store. He demeaned me in front of another customer, and my wife! I don't plan to return to Steiners or make further purchases from them. (Occurred on Monday, July 17, 2023)
Whether she's talking about tractors or apple pie this girl has my full attention. WOW ! ! !
Great video!
Couple of suggestions in removing distributor from 9n front mount.
Do yourself a favor and loosen generator and push it in so as to move fan belt out of way.
I had to remove distributor three times and re-attach three times.
Before I wised up and got that darn fan belt out of the way, it took an hour each side to get the bolt off, and didn’t attach the distributor correctly ‘cause I couldn’t see it right, and wrecked one. Nice!
Second/third time, I moved the fan belt - and removing and re-attaching distributor took only 5 minutes each side and could now see that the distributor was lined up correctly with the engine.
I also found that you only tighten one side half way then tighten the other side. Easy Then!
The third time I attached the distributor and coil ( I put them in attached before installing) I first did a bench test as I still wasn’t getting spark after the second time.
This is what I did (after watching videos AND bugging my mechanic):
With distributor and coil attached on my bench, I hooked up (via wire with alligator clips) 1x wire from positive post of battery to body of distributor.
A second wire (also with alligator clips on both ends) -had that end to the negative post of battery, and other end to the Coil’s top post.
I then attached a spark plug wire to a distributor port, hooked up a spark plug, and touched it to the distributor body while turning the slotted end.
I got spark!
I did this for all 4 distributor ports, each sparking as it hit their sweet spot.
After the 1st plug sparked, the second didn’t, so I opened the distributor and shined up the brass screw where the twisty thing on the coil bottom touches it. After that better connection, the test on all four distributor ports produced spark.
Also for the 9n the gap on points is .15 not .25. But whatever!
Great video!
Followed your instruction to the T, and it worked.
Followed your carb video to the T, and that worked too!
Smart young lady
I just got a '49 8N. I love this channel. Great job! Thank you!
Rachel, I am getting a 1.3 voltage at the coil while running this test with a fully charged 6.5 volt battery, obviously not enough to fire the plugs…where is my next measurement going to be?
I prefer to solve this prior to installing the premium 12v conversion I got from you last January 2023…. Yup, been in the shop waiting. I have a Dearborn loader and it is tight in there. Hood has been removed for better access
Really appreciate your videos! Just ordered all the parts for my 850 top-end rebuild from you. Figured you earned it after all the free education! Just wish you weren't sold out of push rods. Those are like hen's teeth right now.
Sent this to my daughter and niece to learn mechanics.
Excellent!
Watched this before but always worth revisiting. As a refresher course.👍
I have an 8n and I just got a 9n. I knew which channel to go to for info. 😀 Rachel you do a Great job with your video's
Great videos! Very articulate and entertaining. After watching this video,, I just ordered a bunch of distributer parts from your parts site. Super prices and the added confidence I'm getting the right thing for my machine. Thank you!
That is one smart, young lady. Excellent job.
Awesome video as always. Even an old dog like me can learn the correct way to keep these tractors running like new. Thanks Rachel!
Great tutorial. i actually went ahead and ordered this tuning kit and shipping was fast and i got everything i needed. outstanding service, and there site was very easy to use. i highly recommend Dan and Rachel for your tractor needs. thanks guys.
Good lord!! Nice job. I feel like I'm back at auto class 101 LOL Good to a young person turning a wrench.
0 o 89 9th 99 9th
Good video. The troubleshooting can be applied to most distributor ignitions on engines so hopefully as many people as possible watch this and benefit from your run through.
Great video! I’ll use this when working on my distributor tomorrow! Thank you
I have the old front distributor on my 8n. It was a pain in the butt until I put in a set of expensive points and modified it to take the round style coil. It runs like a champ now and I cut hay and plow snow with it.
I watched video and bought parts for an 8n from her… the price was better than Amazon and was shipped out faster than Amazon.
point of fact, at around 4:50; you can NOT install this distributor 180deg. out of phase. the shaft is offset so it only fits one way. if you manage to get the bolts to line up and threaded that way, the shaft will be pressed out by about a quarter inch causing the distributor cap to not fit. if that happens, you have to press the shaft back in (by press i mean lightly tap it with a hammer and hope the bearing doesn't pop out). i learned this the hard way :)
I always love your videos, I have learned so much from you. The only thing I can add to this video is the cam on the back of the distributor is offset so it will only install one way. If you get it 180 out you will break the case when you tighten the bolt. Don't ask me how I know this.🤣🤣🤣 Great job young lady. You are an inspiration to us all.
@@manuelolivas9470 my guess is either she got confused on other tractors or maybe was even thinking about a side distributor and mis spoke.
Just rebuilt mine on a John Deere model 40 thanks to your awesome video. It was pretty similar. I always check your site first for parts!
Safety glasses for bail removal and install. A+
Very impressive presentation on the 9Npoints, I’m a new subscriber now!
The video covers the bases well but as an old time Ford tractor collector I have some additional advice. The anti seize lubricant has tiny particles of aluminum in it to give it anti seize properties and this feature of the lubricant isn’t necessary for a rotating shaft. A small amount of any high temperature grease will work. A little bit should also be applied to the top part of the shaft and a tiny amount to the lobes of the rotating cam. I use a high tech Teflon containing grease sold for use on guns and available at any gun shop. There is such a thing as high temp distributor grease but it’s very hard to find.
There IS a procedure for setting the timing that is described in service manuals, either Ford’s own manual (reprinted) or the aftermarket manual sold on this website. It’s frustrating and you need three hands to do it but it can be done.
If there is much looseness and ability to wiggle the shaft laterally in the top and bottom bushings it’s worn out and you need a rebuilt or new distributor.
I own 9N52, the fourth oldest N tractor known to exist plus 11 more N’s so I’m pretty familiar with them.
Great video I will now be able to fix my problem . I'm more of a massey ferguson guy. But you do really great videos .
Awesome Video! This was very helpful to diagnosing my tractor's failure to start!
Just recently encountered you folks videos. Your good teachers . Thznk you
Great job Rachel, clear and concise..
Oh man! You're awesome! Thanks! Just bought a 2N... Subscribed! cheers!
The coil is the electricity distributor for Bouaghi, from which the machine works. Thank you for this
REALLY NEED this video for the 3000 series tractor.
I hope my daughter and I can also share the hobby of working on our ford tractors.
Appreciate this vid. Sounds like an upper Midwest accent
According to your coil/distributer electrical test with the tester, as long as your tester is flashing, that should confirm firing correctly. Correct? If solid light, points are stuck closed? If not lighting at all, points are not closing or bad coil? I'm a FIY person, not a mechanic but find your instructional videos helpful. You move a little fast for us old folk but I can stop, rewind and playback. Unfortunately, that's a lot for me. If yourself or any viewer can comment on my post to help out, feel free. Any advice may be good advice.
yes Mike you are rite I've got a 1949 8n and the dist goes on one way only you can't hardly make a mistake unless you force it, then some thing is going to break.
Very thorough, informative and clear instruction. Well done. Thank you for the help👍👍
Checked ours while you went thru yours. thanks.
Thanks for the video, however I wish you had done one on a side mount distributor for an 8n as nobody has a video on later Ford 8N’s with the side mount distributor. I own a 1952 8N.
Nice video but you do know front mount dist. Can only install one way the key way is offset. But it's still go to remember where the rotor should be pointing to install. I do really like all your videos.
Just did this today on my 2N. Thanks!
Very good video to follow! Awesome, keep up the great work.
I really appreciate y’all!
you have the speed run anxiety hands on full tilt at 6:00 to 7:00 - I know the feeling from making videos lol
Any 9n or 2n Ford have a side mount distributor ?Thanks for the good videos.
You’re very close to 50k!
Do you have a video to replace the distributor shaft bushing
Another super helpful video thanks again for the help. Definitely remove the distributor to perform this task
Great video loved it. If I'm going to order parts is there by any chance a promo code
I have rebuilt everything you did in the video and still no spark! I hooked up the distributor to the battery and the points are sparking when they touch. Just replaced the spark plugs wires about two weeks ago. It just stopped running last week. I am getting voltage at the top and bottom of the coil too. Im also getting Elms going through the distributor as well. After all of this, it’s still not hitting. Any help??? Thanks!
Another fantastic tutorial video 🌹
thanks for all the great info. I am having trouble with no spark. I am restoring a 8n front distributor all new parts 6v to coil no spark out. Good ground dont understand why. any help would be greatly appreciated
Enjoy all your videos.
Awesome video keep them coming.
So question for you if you set points at 25 what are your spark plugs gapped at.
Sorry for this, but do you stunt double for Ana de Armas?
Rachel's distributor visual is really good, however she didn't cover last step, reinstalling distributor to engine. The drive part on engine has a notch on one side and the distributor connection has stamp on one side. Do you align these two?
Does she have one for disassembly and cleaning? Vs replacing.
Awesome tutorial, thanks
I don't have that bale that hold the plate in is that going yo cause issues?
Well I don't have an 8N Ford tractor but you're smartness help me on my j20 ditch Witcher to get it going thank you very much you're a very smart girl I should say young lady have a great day
Thanks so much. Points scare me to death.. great video..
Another really helpful video. Just curious- why continue to use points at all? Why not eliminate them with a modern solution like a Pertronix kit? That way, you don't have to worry about wear and adjustment ever again.
I stick with points because they are much cheaper. also points give you warning before they fail.
She is awesome. Thanks!!
Great video one keep up good work
my 9n has been converted to 12volt runs fine but was wondering how many volts should I have at the coil? 6 or 12?
So Rachel you make great videos to the point and extremely helpful, your old man must be proud. have you done any 12 volt conversion videos I have a Ferguson TO 30 and am thinking of doing it to the old beast.
Thats funny.
I just seen a video that the guy said all Fergeson were 12v.
He made a lot of mistakes about 9N to 8n as well.
And he also said All Fergeson were overhead valve.
When I swore I've seen some TO 20 that were flatheads. I through they were 8n at the junkyard but the owner said they were Fergeson.
If I forgot to note where the rotor was located before watching this. How can I ensure I replace properly?
I have acquired an old 8N Ford tractor with the distributor missing. How do I align everything up putting a new distributor on it?
I have a 1949 8N with a very bad block.it’s been broken and welded but not very well.
I’ve found a couple motors, 1 out of an 9N . 2, the other one is out of a TE 20.
My question is are they interchangeable? I was given the tractor so I’m not concerned about spending some money..
I live in Alberta, Canada so getting parts can be a challenge.
Thnx in advance for any information you can give me
Great video you all !!
I have a '41 9N. I have only had it running for a few weeks. It runs really well, but it will just randomly stop running and when I go to start it, it's like it has no power. If I let is sit for a while, it starts back up as if nothing ever happened. It seems like a simple solution, like there is something that turns itself off, maybe because it overheats? The longest I can run the tractor is around 10 minutes at a time. I think the previous owner took everything apart and painted everything. It looks real good, but I'm thinking there may be paint in between some ground connections. I was having a problem where the battery ground bolt was heating up. I took it apart, sanded the frame and put it back on and that problem went away.
A question for you, why set the points to 25 when 15 is recommended setting
My tractor will not start but if I tow it it will start right up. every thing is new. It ran fine until I put all new parts on. Any suggestions. Thank you.
Thanks for the video nice job I'm looking to buy some parts from you for mine, I do have a question do you have a video on the rebuild of the transmission of a 9n ford?
How do i know which coil to buy for my 8N? it has a 12v alternator converted to it already but i dont know the history of the the tractor on if the complete wiring was converted as well, how do i figure out if i need 6v or 12v coil? or is just automatically needing 12v coil because it has a 12v alternator?