WOW again!! Im sooo proud to see her interest in something worthwhile. Most kids today have no interest, or idea what goes on in the real world around them. Shes a star now and will continue to be. Keep those videos coming,,,we learn lots every time. Id wish she were my granddaughter or daughter,,shes super smart and a joy to be around im sure!
Greetings Rachel and Dan, I have a 8n tractor I think according to its serial # is a 1948. It has a distributor I had to replace as the pin on the timing gear had sheared off. Since it had sheared and had turned over I had no idea where TDC was. ( Flywheel was impossible to read ) So I used the ole #1 piston on compression tactic. I also replaced everything in the electrical ignition system; that is a 12 volt by the way. I have worked on engines and cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench. My father was the foreman at the I.H. tractor repair shop I am now 60. My first tractor was a cub cadet hand crank started tractor.This engine is really simple the reason I chose to buy it and of course being poor helped that decision along. Now my problem. I'm not really up to snuff on the conversion and the ballast resistor I had to install between the switch and the positive side of the coil. I replaced this also. Now the problem. When I went to check spark I would get a few blue sparks from the coil then nothing. I checked for power drop in the system. I found that when the points were open the voltage would be 12.3 when the points are closed 2.3. I have asked around even to the company that supplied me with the resistor and they didn't even know how or why it was needed. I have found that out only through a tireless investigation of the part. Some say it is only needed when the tractor is running and it is in charge mode. Some suggest to use a bypass when starting the tractor. Then use the regular system when the tractor is running. I tried bypassing the resistor again I got a blue strong spark for a few times again the spark failed after that. I'm flummoxed! How can such an engine be this persnickety? Can you help me? I would be eternally grateful if you could.
Great video. I'm really glad to see a young woman doing this. Would LOVE IT if my girls would learn these skills. PLEASE, PLEASE, mention and use a hair-tie around rotating equipment!! A bun is even better. Although you're not actually close to anything moving, you could save another just by mentioning it. To anyone else reading this too, getting your hair caught doesn't just pull it out. It usually pulls your head or face into the machine.
Don’t neglect the points and condenser. Ford 800 gap is .025 inch. Excellent video. She does another one on checking the coil. I highly recommend that too. Good ground is also important. Keep her dry they don’t like rain or rust.
A much better way to set that distributor is connect a voltmeter to the the distributor side of the coil and ground. Then turn the distributor so the meter goes from low voltage to 12 volts.This indicates the points have opened and a spark was created. Tighten down the distributor at that point. Your timing will be close to perfect and you won't have to mess around guessing where its at,plus your tractor will run properly. Just trying to be helpful. Great video Racheal.
Why are you only setting it to TDC and not making sure it's on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke? TDC occurs twice in a 4 cycle motor...
@@andrewburt7900 jlizer, Joe, and you have excellent points which are very pertinent to completing this task properly. jlizer is correct because the #1 cylinder must be on the compression stroke when observing the TDC (Top Dead Center) and degree marks on the flywheel. Joe is correct for asking how to find out if #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. If the engine is completely assembled, then remove the #1 spark plug, place finger over the #1 spark plug hole, turn the engine over, and feel the rush of air on the compression stroke push the finger off of the #1 spark plug hole. Then as Rachel Gingell states in this video move the flywheel to line up the flywheel. Rachel states 8 degrees before TDC for a later Ford tractor (Jubilee NAA, ...). The Ford 8N is 4 degrees before TDC. Andrew, you are correct for lining up the appropriate degree marks on the flywheel with the mark or pointer on the transmission case. I just completed this task on a 1952 8N side mount tractor. I was lucky that the timing marks were visible on the flywheel. I had to clean away dirt, grime and rust to definitely see the degree marks. I could have easily missed them if they were not clean.
ibsoarin: so if you pull the spark plug and you can feel pressure then it’s the compression stroke I totally forgot that. It’s been decades 😂 if it sucks then it’s the exhaust stroke.
@@andrewburt7900 A Ford Gasoline Tractor engine is a 4 Cycle Engine so as you pointed out it is based upon Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stroke, and Exhaust Stroke. The Exhaust Stroke is the other "up stroke" but minimal pressure is felt at the spark plug hole because the exhaust valve is open.
Great video. A lot of good key point. Wish mine was as clean as yours, but it's a work horse. I will rotate the engine until I get a mark to put the new on in with. For those with hard to start machine, check the points make sure they are set correctly. My distributor I think is the original or at lease very old and the bearings are worn so the cam for the point has play and makes it hard to set the points gap correctly.
If you are leaving the cap in place like the video shows. Get a long piece of string and tie the cap up to the gas tank supports. This way you can drop the distributor in place with out the cap interfering with your work. Or the other thing would be to take the cap completely off the tractor and reinstall after the new distributor is in place.
The buzzing was super annoying I had a hard time hearing you. Thanx for the info though. I noticed it recommends using a new bushing and shim kit? Have you needed to replace either of those?
have a 192 ford on my wood chipper and needed to pull the distributer to free the weights/clean it. this helps a lot, hard to find info on some of these old engines. ty
If the distributor turns to oil pump, can you put a screw driver down the hole and slightly turn the oil pump one way or the other to get the distributor to drop right in where you want it?
I have a 1959 861 Ford, running good one day, and next day when it started it was missing and loud missing sound came straight out of tail pipe. Was told by couple of folks to reset the points. Took dist cap off and then rotary button and there is a black cover, maybe dust cover???. Anyway have not removed this cover UNTILL I find it's okay, then can see the points.. Appreciate anyone knowing about this black cover thank you very much...
Helpful video and thank you for the info but the audio is terrible. All you can hear is the humming of a shop light in the background. Clean that up and perfect video, thanks again!
How do I know if the distributor key fit into the oil pump? Will the distributor sit flush without the key sitting in the oil pump? Or will the unset key prevent the distributor from sitting all the way down flush?
Easy trick is to set the timing mark where it should be on the flywheel and pointer. Pull number one plug wire put a screw in the wire boot and have an assistant hold it or build a jig to hold the screw about an 1/8th of an inch from ground turn on the ignition and gently move the dizzy till you get a spark. Check it a couple of times to make sure then tighten the clamp and it should be right on time. Pull the screw from the boot put it back on number one plug and it should start and require only small adjustments to get it right.
Sounds like you may have a stuck intake valve, a bad valve altogether, or a bent push rod. Try running a compression test to determine if the problem is within the cylinder/valve. -Rachel
Dad and Bro must be laughing up in heaven. I am not sure if dad ever recommended turning the fly wheel with a screwdriver. I wonder how they do that at the dealership? I guess I’ll just keep fixing my own equipment as much as I can. I’m going to try and find the shop manual for this tractor to see exactly what the recommended method of turning the fly wheel is Surprise she didn’t say you need to heat it up with a torch.
Hello! I have a Ford Jubilee tractor that has been setting up for years. I have replaced the gas tank, the points, distributor, and distributor cap, wires, carburetor; it will run for a few minutes and then cuts off. What can I try next?
Hi Karen, it sounds like you've installed quite a few new parts. We can help you troubleshoot your tractor to determine the problem. Here's a link to schedule a call: farmtractorrepair.com/collections/tech-support/products/schedule-a-phone-call-for-mechanical-help
Carb tuning time, I found a really helpful guide on a forum about rebuilding them. At the end there is a life saving guide to tune them. I had a severe popping and back fire for a few years thinking maybe they all do that? After tuning it correctly it's like a brand new tractor. I felt dumb but it was a great learning opportunity !
Chad Atha the guy that fixed up my tractor ended up putting the wires out of order and didn’t know till I looked at the book. Tho I was pretty confused being my carb was brand new and adjusted. All that’s left for it is for me to fix the tick the motor has.
Chad Atha he gets off the hook on that for figuring out the problem I couldn’t lol. The ol gal just died on me randomly one day when I was gonna do my neighbors back yard and it sat there for weeks. It would turn over but wouldn’t fire. It had spark, fuel, carb was good. Replaced everything and still just wouldn’t fire even with starting fluid. Aside from a better ground and swapping it to 12v I’m not too sure what it was but glad it’s back. Not much left for me to do 🤞🏻 just hoping the engine block is ok after the two overheats and a failed oil pump
hey- thank you for this needing to get distributor installed on my Case 530 CK- BTW is that a JD 40 utility in the background? Grew up with one great little tractor
Hi Rachel. Drew here. Totally enjoy your videos with the Ford 2,8,9N tractors. Your videos are very helpful. Great Job. Off subject question: I have a 9N, that seems to have a lot of difficulty starting, and when it's going it is popping like popcorn a lot. However after adjusting Fuel screw richer it seemed to clear up a little, but sill has popcorn, and trouble starting. Oh, also floods easily too. Any ideas? I put new coil, points, cap, and .015 at points, timed it manually, cleaned fuel system, and checked carb needle (free not sticking), and float seems to be OK. I'm stumped. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks again for your great videos.
I believe you were rotating the distributor clockwise toward the end. That would give less spark advance, if I'm following you. I've got a 640 that is out of time and I'm having trouble reading the timing marks. I'd like to try this method of setting the timing.
Help! We have a 1939 Ford 9N. We have fire, we have gas, we have compression, and the plugs aren't fouled but the cantankerous thing won't start. It just turns over and over and over and over. It may fire off a little bit every now and again but quickly dies....help help help!!!
Well, I’m now trying to figure this out!! My engine runs if I pull the 123 wires off but does not change the way it’s running. I’ve never seen a 4 cylinder run on just one cylinder. I need a suggestion as to what is going on. TY in advance
mike wimberly how often do you use the machine? there is a tiny hole on the bottom of the bell housing to drain any leaking oil which seems to be common (in small amounts) on my 8n. your rust could simply be due to moisture in the air if you are not using the tractor often. do some research on "blocking" the clutch pedal in the disengaged position. this helps to keep the clutch from sticking while the tractor sits but might slightly weaken the flex plate springs over time. best to look into new clutch if sticking becomes common
A complete explanation of plug wire configurations and cylinder firing order, along with distributor-cap arrangement vs. spark plug wire arrangements would be helpful for those needing a thorough understanding. Speaking more loudly, slowly, and clearly would be very helpful. Explaining the entire process would also allow for a better understanding of the lesson and procedures. If this video is a continuation of a previous tune-up process for the 850 series, then a reference should be made or a link should be presented for continuing education. -Vocational Instructor, 50 years.
Their videos are great but their customer service is terrible! I will not purchase any parts from them in the future, Bought a crank pully from them for my 9N tractor and it is machined to the under-size and will not go on. Emailed them twice and. never heard anything back from them!
FoMoCo1 that is a totally weird firing order.............I'd reset the cam/crank alignment resetting the firing order to 1-3-4-2 personally, much smoother run.
thanks for the video. Good Job.... Next Time, Tell the MAN to SHUT UP, butt out. He is irritating. To me, seems like He is trying to make you look less than.. You obviously know what you are doing.
+Bowhunter1300 Just be aware that sometimes this is IRRITATING (being a gal that has experienced pushy men diminishing my tutorial) and disrupts video. GIRL ARE SMART.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. You finally showed this old man how to get my 4000 Ford running again. You are the greatest instructor I know.
WOW again!! Im sooo proud to see her interest in something worthwhile. Most kids today have no interest, or idea what goes on in the real world around them. Shes a star now and will continue to be. Keep those videos coming,,,we learn lots every time. Id wish she were my granddaughter or daughter,,shes super smart and a joy to be around im sure!
Would you guys please consider remaking this video with a better quality camera? It's over ten years old now! Thanks
Greetings Rachel and Dan, I have a 8n tractor I think according to its serial # is a 1948. It has a distributor I had to replace as the pin on the timing gear had sheared off. Since it had sheared and had turned over I had no idea where TDC was. ( Flywheel was impossible to read ) So I used the ole #1 piston on compression tactic. I also replaced everything in the electrical ignition system; that is a 12 volt by the way. I have worked on engines and cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench. My father was the foreman at the I.H. tractor repair shop I am now 60. My first tractor was a cub cadet hand crank started tractor.This engine is really simple the reason I chose to buy it and of course being poor helped that decision along. Now my problem. I'm not really up to snuff on the conversion and the ballast resistor I had to install between the switch and the positive side of the coil. I replaced this also. Now the problem. When I went to check spark I would get a few blue sparks from the coil then nothing. I checked for power drop in the system. I found that when the points were open the voltage would be 12.3 when the points are closed 2.3. I have asked around even to the company that supplied me with the resistor and they didn't even know how or why it was needed. I have found that out only through a tireless investigation of the part. Some say it is only needed when the tractor is running and it is in charge mode. Some suggest to use a bypass when starting the tractor. Then use the regular system when the tractor is running. I tried bypassing the resistor again I got a blue strong spark for a few times again the spark failed after that. I'm flummoxed! How can such an engine be this persnickety? Can you help me? I would be eternally grateful if you could.
Great video. I'm really glad to see a young woman doing this. Would LOVE IT if my girls would learn these skills. PLEASE, PLEASE, mention and use a hair-tie around rotating equipment!! A bun is even better. Although you're not actually close to anything moving, you could save another just by mentioning it. To anyone else reading this too, getting your hair caught doesn't just pull it out. It usually pulls your head or face into the machine.
Lol, what a nutter
Don’t neglect the points and condenser. Ford 800 gap is .025 inch. Excellent video. She does another one on checking the coil. I highly recommend that too. Good ground is also important. Keep her dry they don’t like rain or rust.
I just got it running this morning!! YAY!!
I didn't have that rotor cap lined It just perfect, it was still out of time. But it works now. Thanks
A much better way to set that distributor is connect a voltmeter to the the distributor side of the coil and ground. Then turn the distributor so the meter goes from low voltage to 12 volts.This indicates the points have opened and a spark was created. Tighten down the distributor at that point. Your timing will be close to perfect and you won't have to mess around guessing where its at,plus your tractor will run properly. Just trying to be helpful. Great video Racheal.
Very Informative well done video straight and to the point ..GREAT JOB
Why are you only setting it to TDC and not making sure it's on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke? TDC occurs twice in a 4 cycle motor...
how do you find it on the compression stroke? im running into that now
jlizer; I believe that’s why she mentioned the degree marks on the fly wheel? No sure though
@@andrewburt7900 jlizer, Joe, and you have excellent points which are very pertinent to completing this task properly.
jlizer is correct because the #1 cylinder must be on the compression stroke when observing the TDC (Top Dead Center) and degree marks on the flywheel.
Joe is correct for asking how to find out if #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. If the engine is completely assembled, then remove the #1 spark plug, place finger over the #1 spark plug hole, turn the engine over, and feel the rush of air on the compression stroke push the finger off of the #1 spark plug hole. Then as Rachel Gingell states in this video move the flywheel to line up the flywheel.
Rachel states 8 degrees before TDC for a later Ford tractor (Jubilee NAA, ...). The Ford 8N is 4 degrees before TDC.
Andrew, you are correct for lining up the appropriate degree marks on the flywheel with the mark or pointer on the transmission case.
I just completed this task on a 1952 8N side mount tractor. I was lucky that the timing marks were visible on the flywheel. I had to clean away dirt, grime and rust to definitely see the degree marks. I could have easily missed them if they were not clean.
ibsoarin: so if you pull the spark plug and you can feel pressure then it’s the compression stroke I totally forgot that. It’s been decades 😂 if it sucks then it’s the exhaust stroke.
@@andrewburt7900 A Ford Gasoline Tractor engine is a 4 Cycle Engine so as you pointed out it is based upon Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stroke, and Exhaust Stroke.
The Exhaust Stroke is the other "up stroke" but minimal pressure is felt at the spark plug hole because the exhaust valve is open.
Great video. A lot of good key point. Wish mine was as clean as yours, but it's a work horse. I will rotate the engine until I get a mark to put the new on in with. For those with hard to start machine, check the points make sure they are set correctly. My distributor I think is the original or at lease very old and the bearings are worn so the cam for the point has play and makes it hard to set the points gap correctly.
Good video. If I am ever going to pull my distributor I always mark the distributor and the housing so I can drop it right back on the same mark...
Thank you. Mine won't start right now but I think I know what to do. A few adjustments and she should be ok. Thanks!!
Thank you very much. Your help got my tractor going again.
If you are leaving the cap in place like the video shows. Get a long piece of string and tie the cap up to the gas tank supports. This way you can drop the distributor in place with out the cap interfering with your work. Or the other thing would be to take the cap completely off the tractor and reinstall after the new distributor is in place.
The buzzing was super annoying I had a hard time hearing you. Thanx for the info though. I noticed it recommends using a new bushing and shim kit? Have you needed to replace either of those?
have a 192 ford on my wood chipper and needed to pull the distributer to free the weights/clean it. this helps a lot, hard to find info on some of these old engines. ty
Sure runs sweet! My dad had a golden jubilee model one great machine.
If the distributor turns to oil pump, can you put a screw driver down the hole and slightly turn the oil pump one way or the other to get the distributor to drop right in where you want it?
I'd like to see the installation of a front mount distributor
what a sweet girl and not afraid to get her hands dirty
AWSOME !!! that what I needed - Thanx Rachel ..... Thank Dan too !!
I have a 1959 861 Ford, running good one day, and next day when it started it was missing and loud missing sound came straight out of tail pipe. Was told by couple of folks to reset the points. Took dist cap off and then rotary button and there is a black cover, maybe dust cover???. Anyway have not removed this cover UNTILL I find it's okay, then can see the points.. Appreciate anyone knowing about this black cover thank you very much...
Thanks Dan!! This video really helped me out a lot. I couldn't have done it with you guys!! Thank You
Lovely lady, excellent presentation.
Wonderful video. Thank you
Wow I love these videos. One thing- is it possible to get rid of the ballast buzz from the lights overhead. That is very annoying.
Did Ford tractor paint it's tractors pink at one time? 5/30/2017
Helpful video and thank you for the info but the audio is terrible. All you can hear is the humming of a shop light in the background. Clean that up and perfect video, thanks again!
How do I know if the distributor key fit into the oil pump? Will the distributor sit flush without the key sitting in the oil pump? Or will the unset key prevent the distributor from sitting all the way down flush?
So is # 1 cylinder nxt to the radiator or steering column??? Mines a 601 and everything i have read says nxt ti column..🤷♂️
Love that a woman can fix something. And it's not scripted.
Easy trick is to set the timing mark where it should be on the flywheel and pointer. Pull number one plug wire put a screw in the wire boot and have an assistant hold it or build a jig to hold the screw about an 1/8th of an inch from ground turn on the ignition and gently move the dizzy till you get a spark. Check it a couple of times to make sure then tighten the clamp and it should be right on time. Pull the screw from the boot put it back on number one plug and it should start and require only small adjustments to get it right.
what is a dizzy
@@stevenkibler7796 It is the distributor. Old term us old farts use. It turns at a dizzy speed
@@stephenwhited1833 Thank you now I'll remember that always
I'm glad it was helpful! -Rachel
Sounds like you may have a stuck intake valve, a bad valve altogether, or a bent push rod. Try running a compression test to determine if the problem is within the cylinder/valve. -Rachel
Thanks Rachel!!!
Dad and Bro must be laughing up in heaven. I am not sure if dad ever recommended turning the fly wheel with a screwdriver. I wonder how they do that at the dealership? I guess I’ll just keep fixing my own equipment as much as I can. I’m going to try and find the shop manual for this tractor to see exactly what the recommended method of turning the fly wheel is Surprise she didn’t say you need to heat it up with a torch.
Thank You, I had to take dist. out to put a o-ring in and this will help eas emy mind.
Rotor Cap? In to the oil pump? Would pay to see that! Going out on a limb here, but I think beast won’t get too far with a loose distributor cap.
Hello! I have a Ford Jubilee tractor that has been setting up for years. I have replaced the gas tank, the points, distributor, and distributor cap, wires, carburetor; it will run for a few minutes and then cuts off. What can I try next?
Hi Karen, it sounds like you've installed quite a few new parts. We can help you troubleshoot your tractor to determine the problem. Here's a link to schedule a call: farmtractorrepair.com/collections/tech-support/products/schedule-a-phone-call-for-mechanical-help
Was looking at this bc my 601 has a large amount of backfire and popping when revving it up but I just noticed that your tractor has eyelashes lol
Carb tuning time, I found a really helpful guide on a forum about rebuilding them. At the end there is a life saving guide to tune them. I had a severe popping and back fire for a few years thinking maybe they all do that? After tuning it correctly it's like a brand new tractor. I felt dumb but it was a great learning opportunity !
Chad Atha the guy that fixed up my tractor ended up putting the wires out of order and didn’t know till I looked at the book. Tho I was pretty confused being my carb was brand new and adjusted. All that’s left for it is for me to fix the tick the motor has.
That sucks at least you have someone to blame. I'm usually the guy making stupid simple mistakes.... O well it all gets fixed in the end😀
Chad Atha he gets off the hook on that for figuring out the problem I couldn’t lol. The ol gal just died on me randomly one day when I was gonna do my neighbors back yard and it sat there for weeks. It would turn over but wouldn’t fire. It had spark, fuel, carb was good. Replaced everything and still just wouldn’t fire even with starting fluid. Aside from a better ground and swapping it to 12v I’m not too sure what it was but glad it’s back. Not much left for me to do 🤞🏻 just hoping the engine block is ok after the two overheats and a failed oil pump
hey- thank you for this needing to get distributor installed on my Case 530 CK- BTW is that a JD 40 utility in the background? Grew up with one great little tractor
Why don’t you have this video for the front mount distributor
Wow, Thank You. Ive been looking for this info. Your the Freakin best
Hi Rachel. Drew here. Totally enjoy your videos with the Ford 2,8,9N tractors. Your videos are very helpful. Great Job. Off subject question: I have a 9N, that seems to have a lot of difficulty starting, and when it's going it is popping like popcorn a lot. However after adjusting Fuel screw richer it seemed to clear up a little, but sill has popcorn, and trouble starting. Oh, also floods easily too. Any ideas? I put new coil, points, cap, and .015 at points, timed it manually, cleaned fuel system, and checked carb needle (free not sticking), and float seems to be OK. I'm stumped. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks again for your great videos.
Drew Rushlow Sounds like you have weak valves in the engine.
Rachel, have you ever considered a week long summer camp for girls? I have two daughters that I think would enjoy learning more about tractors.
First time I have seen a pink engine.
The description tells it's her tractor. So even if she's a good mechanic, she's obviously still a girl 😀😀
Could you do a TH-cam on 3000 ford starting trouble problems and backfire. Thanks love your show
Darn, still no luck... followed your steps but still can't get it to run. Just wants to backfire out thru the carb...
I believe you were rotating the distributor clockwise toward the end. That would give less spark advance, if I'm following you. I've got a 640 that is out of time and I'm having trouble reading the timing marks. I'd like to try this method of setting the timing.
What size is the distributor bolt To advance the timing I bought a tractor 8 n And he lost the bolt and Put in the wrong bolt
I've never been so turned on by a youtube video before! A gorgeous girl and a gorgeous tractor.
Bunch of perverted old man on here.
now show how to properly time a 8n tractor that has a front mount distributor.
Could use some close up pics of the shaft and the mounting surface.
Good job👍👍
Well explained ,,,
Thank you, thank you. thank you !!!!!!!!!!
Help! We have a 1939 Ford 9N. We have fire, we have gas, we have compression, and the plugs aren't fouled but the cantankerous thing won't start. It just turns over and over and over and over. It may fire off a little bit every now and again but quickly dies....help help help!!!
check the carb..make sure fuel is actually getting INTO the engine.
Well, I’m now trying to figure this out!! My engine runs if I pull the 123 wires off but does not change the way it’s running. I’ve never seen a 4 cylinder run on just one cylinder. I need a suggestion as to what is going on. TY in advance
The valves must be stuck open there's no restriction from keeping the motor from running on 1 cylinder
i have a 53 jubilee and this is only 4 cyl i have worked that firing order wasn't 1-3-4-2 and it sure threw me a curve.
It's still "1, 3, 4, 2". She was referring to the plug wire placement counterclockwise on the cap.
they were smart mounting the plugs on the side unlike the 8n which were on top
Why am I getting oil in my carbaraiter 1952 8 n can anyone help
make some videos on Massey 135 tractor
Can yoy tell me how water is getting on my clutch. It rusted to the flywheeel.
mike wimberly how often do you use the machine? there is a tiny hole on the bottom of the bell housing to drain any leaking oil which seems to be common (in small amounts) on my 8n. your rust could simply be due to moisture in the air if you are not using the tractor often. do some research on "blocking" the clutch pedal in the disengaged position. this helps to keep the clutch from sticking while the tractor sits but might slightly weaken the flex plate springs over time. best to look into new clutch if sticking becomes common
Cute Jubilee. Are those eyelashes? lol
thanks good Job.
What us that buzzing?
I wasnt looking at the tractor the whole time lol!
daryl edduardo; seriously dude? Get a life perv, she is obviously married, such disrespect! You’re obviously single
Can I eliminate the points on my old ford 9n tractor
A complete explanation of plug wire configurations and cylinder firing order, along with distributor-cap arrangement vs. spark plug wire arrangements would be helpful for those needing a thorough understanding. Speaking more loudly, slowly, and clearly would be very helpful. Explaining the entire process would also allow for a better understanding of the lesson and procedures. If this video is a continuation of a previous tune-up process for the 850 series, then a reference should be made or a link should be presented for continuing education. -Vocational Instructor, 50 years.
Actually using your ear to test where then engine runs best is a bad idea if you are timing a 420 John Deere.
You make it look so easy, a man could do it. LOL
Needs a better microphone,more light and garage light is buzzing......
Their videos are great but their customer service is terrible! I will not purchase any parts from them in the future, Bought a crank pully from them for my 9N tractor and it is machined to the under-size and will not go on. Emailed them twice and. never heard anything back from them!
1-2-4-3???......................You sure about that?.........Most 4 bangers are 1-4-3-2.........
1-2-4-3 is correct.
FoMoCo1 my massey is 1-3-4-2 4cyl gas... just sayin 8p
FoMoCo1
you are correct sir................. Ford 9N - engine. 1939 - 1942 N Series Firing order: 1-2-4-3: Starter volts: 6: Oil capacity: 6 qts
FoMoCo1
that is a totally weird firing order.............I'd reset the cam/crank alignment resetting the firing order to 1-3-4-2 personally, much smoother run.
Jeffrey dontyouwish Most 4 cylinders are 1, 3, 4, 2.
Dead. Top Center? Huh?
thanks for the video. Good Job.... Next Time, Tell the MAN to SHUT UP, butt out. He is irritating. To me, seems like He is trying to make you look less than..
You obviously know what you are doing.
I think he was just helping out.
Chill, Barb.
+Bowhunter1300
Just be aware that sometimes this is IRRITATING (being a gal that has experienced pushy men diminishing my tutorial) and disrupts video. GIRL ARE SMART.
Behold the Lamb of GOD which taketh away the sin of the world.There is no gift like John 3:16.