I had to switch my 2n over to 12 volt because I couldn't keep the generators working also..i done this about 10 years ago and havent had a problem since..just did a tune up with points, condenser. And rotor..ive been running this tractor here on my farm for 35 years. People love to see it in my gardening videos..ty for doing this video.. Rick in NC
Thanks for watching Rick. Yeah dealing with charging issues due to junk cut out relays and junk brushes for the generators anymore got to frustrating and expensive keeping it 6 volt
Great video!... You can't go wrong when you deal with Derek at Just 8N's! I'm fortunate to live about 20 minutes from his shop and he has been a tremendous help every time I go in!
Great looking tractor and well cared for. Just performed this same upgrade on a friend's 1946 2N but instead of connecting the red wire of the Pertronix ignition to the coil positive (37:30 in the video) I ran a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the red wire of the ignition. Reason being, if connected to the coil terminal the voltage to the electronics in the ignition is dropped to 8-9 volts by the ballast resistor. This is less than the intended 12-14 volts normally applied to the electronic ignition during operation. One additional modification was to connect a ground wire from the stud that holds the electronics to the plate to the threaded hole where the condenser once attached to provide the best ground possible. Great work!
I've seen that wiring done before. Reason why I didn't do it was I didn't want a wire on the outside of the new wire harness and I didn't want to open it up to put it in.
I rebuilt my Ford 8N last year, changed it over to an electronic ignition, thanks for making this amazing education step by step video Jason!! It started on the first crank over!!
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
Jason, I keep coming back to your videos year after year as I do misc maintenance on my ford tractors. Your videos are by far some of the best on these models. Thank you.
Jason...thanks for posting this video! I kind of stumbled onto your channel, and this conversion really interested me. I don't own a tractor, but enjoy working on vehicles. I wanted to let you know that your presentation was awesome!! Great camera angles so viewers could get a clear view, audio that was clear, and spot-on knowledge of the subject and explanation of the process. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
By the way...that's a beautiful little tractor. Super job on the restoration! I agree with your mind set on the 12v upgrade. It's one thing to enjoy the "originality" of the tractor, but also practicality plays a big part. I'm glad you use it for what it was meant to do...work!
Terrific video! I just bought a Ford 8N and a Ford 900. The 8N is a six volt and it runs fine - I used it last summer to operate a brush hog. The wiring is a mess on both tractors. The 900 uses a 12 volt but the alternator isn't charging the battery. I appreciate gentlemen like you who show me the right way to perform upgrades that don't take away the history of these historic machines. Thank you, Jason!
you alternator needs to have about 14 v to charge 12v batter measure batt voltage with it running look for 14 volts if yous ee say 8 volt its a 6 volt alternator
Again thank you so much for your help I do not know a lot about these older tractors but I am very much wanting to learn. I enjoy doing all the work myself and do not like having to have other people work on my equipment. So your knowledge and the fact that you will take time to help his extraordinary. Thank you very much
Hi Jason, just got finished watching this entire tape video rather and I’m glad I did because it’s exactly what I’m gonna be doing to my Ford two and when I get up and work on this spring when it gets up warm up West Virginia but I’m converting it over to 12 V and I’m gonna put headlights tail lights and electronic ignition too so it exactlyshow me how to do all that so good take thank you
My dad did that years ago on a ford tractor, convertto 12. Volt, alternator and electronic ignition. But left the starter as a six volt. Everybody said it would burn out . That starter was never changed ,it started so fast and easy.
There is a common myth out there that a 6 volt starter won't work with 12 volts. Obviously that is false. In all honesty 6 volts is harder on the starter and other components. Like you said the 12 volt system starts these engines so fast.
Just watched this video for the second time, my brother has a 58 8n that sat for a while and was already converted to 12v. It won't run when it gets hot, sooo, so this video explains alot !!! I'm an OK mechanic, so this helped me answer all the question- problems that we are having ! Going to redo it your way!! Thanks! You have no idea how simple you made this for me! Good day! Especially about the resistors, figured there was one in the alternator , Going with electronic ignition also!
@@stevehamman4465 It's fairly normal for a coil to get hot to the touch,but there is such a thing as too much. A lot of the 12 volt coils being processed don't have enough windings in them. They are equivalent to a 6 volt. It is important to test any coil with a meter to see how much resistance it has. You may need to add a extra inline resistor. Generally a 12 volt coil will have around 3.0 ohms of resistance where as a 6 volt will be around 1.5 ohms. You can use a 6 volt coil with 12 volt battery but you would need to add a extra resistor.
@@Jason1Pa , Thanks ! This isn't a rush job. , it's to hot outside for this old timer! May have to pick your brain later on! Thanks for the information!, Good day!
@@Jason1Pa , when I was younger my father bought a used blue and grey diesel Ford, New Holland engine. 9n ?? 64 something?. 4 speed . It was burning oil , so was going to have it fixed , dude took it apart then said he couldn't find parts for it. This was 40yrs ago, so ?
Hi, I am back again and having a other look and would like to add a second comment. Always run the earth lead from the battery direct to the engine and then earth the engine to the bodywork, doing it this way gives a perfect power flow to the starter motor and eliminates any loose or dirty connections in the body or frame. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic on trucks and earthmovers for over fifty years so I am talking from experience.
Hi Bob welcome back! You are giving a good tip. However I'm one to try and keep things simple and fallow the book and keep the wiring simple and less of it. I can honestly say I never have had and kind of grounding issues with any of my tractors other then right at the battery posts.
Awesome video. I used your video to do my 12 volt conversion on my 1947 2n. I ordered all my parts through Just8ns and was extremely pleased with the quality of parts. I have my own youtube channel and was going to video my conversion but nothing beats your video. very informative with step by step instructions. Thanks for putting in the work and time in to making this video.
Just bought a '40 9N with 12V but with points. Gonna get changed ASAP. Perfectly clear and information filled presentation - thank you, sir! Joe S (USAF Ret. AK and ID)
i have a 53 dodge trk 6cy uses points no problem if you are having pitting prob on points change dist. condenser may have wrong mfd value or it is def condenser must match coil for max spark very easy to install wrong condenser.
Great video man; had an 8-N on the farm growing up. As a young boy I remember using it to feeding the cattle in the cold winters we used to have in north Georgia back un the 60’s. Rarely did it ever fail to start even in the coldest winter day and If it didn’t, it was always a battery issue. Just don’t make um like that anymore ! Great content and very informative 👍
Yes as everyone else said Very good video. I'm like you today I put on and adjusted 3 different sets of points and even a new complete base plate with points set too, for a front distrisbuter and 3 times it ran for one minute and the points would not open and close for more than a minute and it quit running. ....Most New points are junk....I'm going Electronic on this one I have done it in the past and most of the times it's very easy install . When you put your test light on the coil to see if you had power I like to take it one step further and turn the motor over with the test light attached coil to see if the light blinks on and off telling me the points are opening and closing properly....GREAT JOB !!
Thanks Bruce! I normally put a meter on there instead of a test light when I'm actually trouble shooting. A test light will light up with any amount of current but isn't telling you if you got enough.
@@Jason1Pa no I don’t know where they got that name but that’s the grandson that I have around now he’s only one that I’ll make contact with so he’s going to get this Tractor when we get done and he’s gonna learn how to work on it so have a good day
Very thorough video. Back in the day my Dad had a 9N. He took the front wheels off and replaced them with car tires. It was a lot smoother driving across a plowed field.
Barny Canuck my great grandfather used to do that but it was because he was to cheap to replace the tires with tractor tires but it made it hard to steer.
The bigger tires eat up your steering gears. We have two since new, a 1944 and a 1947. The 1944 had the 4.00-19 replaced with 6.00-16 truck tires then tractor tires in late 1950s. The 1947 still has the 4.00-19s the 1944 has completely worn out 3 sets of steering gears while the 1947 still has the original steering gears. We have now bought new wheels and put the 4.00-19s on the 1944 to much easier steering too.
thank you Jason , I was very anxious to hear it running , I hope you'll give that red a new coat, good luck with this piece of antique its beautiful , I just bought one its an 8N original shape it's already converted to 12 volt I will check the conversion as soon as my 8N will arrive to its new home.
Piney life Suggested your TH-cam channel and I am here for your guidance. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. And hello, from Romulus, Michigan.
Hello!! Thanks for stopping in and commenting! Hope you find a lot of my Ford videos helpful. Your not too far from the Henry Ford Museum and Village? I've been there a couple times. Along with the Michigan Speedway and Lake Michigan. Very beautiful state!
@Jason1Pa actually at 275/94 in romulus 12 miles w from Henry Ford Greenfield village the family and i go there about 3 times a year The tractor I picked up is about 1947 I cranked it over today just to see if it would it was in gear at moved, did not fire. Wire harness is a mess I would like to get it running. I need to find out if the block is good or not. Do you have a step 1 video? For a known tractor. Meaning I have no idea about this tractor
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
Jason with your help, I just got Rachel running!!! Total rewire and electronic ignition. Never heard it run this good!! Bought 5 years ago finally get some satisfaction!. Driving her (41 ser# 85407) from Brunswick md to martinsburg wv cause I can't get a trailer..... thanks for your videos, hydros is next
That is great to hear!!! I do have hydraulic repair videos if you have not seen them yet. Good luck on your trip and be safe!! I Googled the distance and it says about 30 miles. I've given one 35 miles on a tractor run. It will feel slow but take your time. I would highly recommend taking another coil with you. These new ones arn't very good. If you have a extra you probably won't need it.
liked your video nice looking tractor. I am doing and convert a 6N 6volt to 12volt and electronic ignition had a water pump go bad and dump all the antifreeze fan hitting shroud and sheared blade off a never got into radiator. I purchased the old tractor last year to handle job I was doing was a hassle to jumper it all the time. I'm a machanic have work on anything that rolled pushed or carried in door so I here you on the quality poor made products out there these day parts quality products use to last years and if they failed your could repair them or purchase a OEM standard repair kit these days its sucks because if you have a part fail you replace it with a worse quality made part that made in china you be lucky if you get a year out of it
@@Jason1Pa hay man how's things going? My name is Sean and I would like to get a full list of names of parts, model numbers and such for the parts you used in the video. I have an 8n that I have to replace all wires on and any and all info will help. It runs but takes a battery and jump box because I've been to lazy to replace the dryroted wiring lol. Thanks
What ohm coil and which wiring diagram did you use for rest of tractor? I'm very frustrated with my points and am just going to strip it all off and reinstall all new.
If you have a 12 volt system you want a coil with 3.0 ohms. If lower you'll want to add a extra resistor. Google JMAR wiring diagram for your particular model and set up. What issues are you having with the points. EI isn't always going to solve your problem especially if the distributer bushings are worn.
Liked, subscribed, and did the notifications. Like your videos - very well done. I appreciate you taking the hood off of the tractor so that we could see what is going on. WOW- your tractors are CLEAN! I have a 1952 8N with Sherman transmission
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed! Hopefully some new videos being posted soon. Tractors are clean because I restore them and retire them. 😆 I'd like to get a late model 8N with a Sherman someday. Right now I'm looking around for a Sherman for my 48 8N.
@@Jason1Pa I got lucky when I got mine. I still use it for light work on my place Up North, but I also have a small diesel kubota with a front loader and 4wd (and power steering).... Great machine.. already converted to 12 volts, but none of the gauges are hooked up or lights.. I want to put LED replacement lights in it, then do the body work
@@joecnc3341 the side distributor 8Ns are nice to do the electronic ignition on since you have the round coil. You can get a "hot" one and will have enough resistance with out any extra resistors. Just a word of caution get new plug wires. Get new carbon core. Don't use the copper core wires. They can produce a electronic pulse and damage the electronic ignition module.
Great content! So happy you did this like they really should be done. Made the whole process on conversion seem like a cake walk, even though I'm certain it wasn't as easy as you made it seem. The addition of the Dennis Carpenter headlights also was in keeping with the original, being an actual Ford die that made the shell and rings. The braided wire loom was a logical and perfect departure for your connections. Thank you for your efforts. Know that if I should find myself working on a Ford N-series tractor one day, I'll have the know-how and confidence to tackle the job at hand. Will be staying tuned in for all your content in the future.
@@Jason1Pa just thrilled to see folks who bother to do things that really lend dependability and stick to the standards that made these tractors the workhorse of most folks farms. It was practical advice with common-sense tips on just how to make it come all together well. Thanks for taking a moment to respond back. Be safe and stay well.
There is a time for everything. Parts in a bag should you sell and you don't strike me as a seller. I love the fine detail and effort to keep original as most won't have a clue. I never apologize for making my stuff work for me as its mine and I can throw it off a cliff if I want to. You and I both know the satisfaction of using a tool that means something to the holder
'MERICA! awesome video. Really appreciate your knowledge an explanation. I will be buying my first 9N I believe it's a 48. Hopefully my conversion to 12 volts goes smooth
9Ns were made from 1939 to 1942 then came the 2N from 1942 to 1947. Then in mid 1947 the 8N came out and lasted until 1952. Good luck with with your new tractor
Another "Great" for the video. Nice work explaining the centering of the static timing. When I installed the 1247 electronic ignition on my '50 front mount 8N I think I had to run a separate 12 volt line from the ignition switch with a diode to keep the tractor from running after I shut it off. I did have an after market ignition switch with no accessory terminal though.
Thank you Jason for this very informative video. I converted mine to 12 volt using the kit from just 8n's and also there was a guy on the forum I forget which 1 it was.maybe the 8n forum.( I have a 1948 8n by the way,) who pulled the guts out of his coil put an external coil and then ran the coil wire down through the old cap and soldered the secondary coil wire in place where the coil contacts the dist. cap and that's what I did and it works really good I have an external coil that I got from Napa with an internal resistor 12 volt and it really works good and I just wondered what I'd have to do to put the electronic in there I'm using the points and condenser right now so probably just the same thing I just have to solder or just put the The wire coming up from the electronic ignition system to where I placed the coil wire now and that would probably work ideal.🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜🚜btw the old 8n whom I named " BUbba-Tom" starts@the first punch of the starter button after it's warmed up.
Glen Yes,putting a external round coil is a good choice if you want to make your ignition system almost bullet proof. The square coils of today are just junk. I thought about getting the kit from Yesterday's Tractor at some point but for now I just keep a few extra coils on hand for the Fords. Sounds like you have the right idea when it comes to wiring up the EI just one thing I forgot to mention in the video you need to change the copper core spark plug wires to the modern suppression ones. The copper ones can create a electronic pulse that could damage the EI module.
@@Jason1Pa thank you Jason yeah I'm going to order those wires when I ordered the EI so yeah I read that part in there I guess another reader or viewer had seen that and asked about that so that's what I'm going to do I'm going to order it when I order the kit thank you Jason for what you do I'm going to tune into this I'm going to subscribe so you have a good good day bye 😉😉🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜
Im the proud owner of a IH 434 witch i got after my dad passed away (it was his) and speaking of coolant i actually cant remember the last time the coolant on it was changed, i think i was 1 or 2 yrs old (im 14 now) so thats 12 yrs of pulling tree stumps out of the ground and driving medium sized row boats to the beach douring hot summerdays (20* plus) and ripping trees out like plants with roots and everything with me at the wheel (i was 10-11 so i remember it like yesterday) and now its sitting in a shed at one of my dads friends (my godfather) where im currently restorating it, i bumped the radiator a few days back and its leaking fluid so its gonna be the dirst time in over a decade its gonna recieve new fluids 💦
Thank you! This video answered a few questions I’ve trying to find answers for regarding an 8n a buddy of mine has that someone swapped the 12v kit over from another 8n onto this one. There has been more than one issue or I should say conflict with the 3/4 12v kit and 1/4 6v system. 😤
@tonis2u That is the pad that are used to reduce vibration and keep from damaging the radiator. I'm not really sure what they are made of. You can get them at most places that sell Ford parts. Any Ford parts I ever get are purchased either at Dennis Carpenter or Just8ns
Your very good at teaching a pretend mechanic like me how to do it the right way. Thank you now I'm able to try it myself. At least I've got a video to keep me from messing up. A shad tree mechanic such as myself always ends up with a few extra parts at the end of the job. Lol.
I appreciate the kind words!! I don't consider myself the best teacher in the world but I give it my best. Good luck with your conversion!! And don't worry about those extra parts. Extra parts just shows you made it better!!😂 LOL
Could you make a short video on how you routed the wiring for your lights. Did you include the wire for the headlights in the harness you zip tied to the spark plug tubing? My 41 9n has headlights but no harness. I want to add rear lights just like yours. I'm impressed with your workmanship.
I'm sorry I missed your question. I should do a video on the lights. That question comes up. Since the lights were a add on and never from the factory you can pretty much do it how you want. Really no right or wrong way. Yes I just zip tied to the spark plug tube.
Great video Jason....I have an 8N and it is in rough shape. Had it converted to 12v and this would have been very doable even for a non mechanic like myself. Thank you.
Jason... great video... Can you make a video explaining the wiring throughout these tractors? I love how you give an understanding of all the critical features..
Fantastic... My tractor is stilla 6 volt with stuff on it that I'm not sure what it is! The layout of the wiring is the part I'm trying to understand! What wire goes where and why! Thank you for the detail you share!
@@barbschlegel3680 What tractor do you have? 9N 2N 8N? Google JMOR wiring diagram for 6 volt Ford then the model number. They are pretty easy to fallow wiring diagram.
Jason... I'm not sure.. The tractor was repainted and you can't make out the model number what so ever....I think maybe an 8N... All I know is that it's a 42 Ford!
@@barbschlegel3680 if it's a 42 it's not a 8n. Either a 9N or 2N if you'd like you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can see if I can help you out especially if you can send a picture or 2
@BobThielen-t9p Well the frustration with new electric parts can be irritating. I've had more than one coil come out of the box and not work so that's a possibility. Unfortunately the EI modules are voltage sensitive. A little too much or too little and they won't work. Are you using the OEM resistor on the dash? Did you check the resistance on the new coil?
Good video - and I agree with you about the Pertronix. i've been using them a long, long time. I think the first one I bought was $12 or $18 ( can't remember now - about 1970). Over the years I've converted 7 or 8 vehicles and never had one go bad. Believe me, the're more than $18 now.
I think the whole kit for the front mount distributors is around $130 give or take. Depends on who you get it from. If down the road you'd need to replace the module only it would be around $60
@maverick7131 Are you referring to the 12 volt kit or the Petronix ignition kit? I got the 12 volt kit from Just8ns .com by far the best brackets and such in my opinion. I also got the ignition kit from them as well, but believe it or not Summit Racing sells them way cheaper now
Nice neat job there Jason! I just got a 53 Jubilee I’d like to switch over to 12 volt and also the Petronius ignition system. Would send me the links for your suppliers and also the spark gap tester. I’d really appreciate a reliable supplier for this stuff. Thanks for your help. I’m a subscriber so I’m looking forward for more of your videos.
Hi George! Any of my videos about Ford tractors I use parts from either Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter. I believe I got my spark tester at Advance Auto Parts years ago.
I don't recall how much I payed but it wasn't that much. I'm sure you can shop around other places. I do like this style better then most but there are all kinds of spark testers out there. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-coil-on-plug-spark-tester-20700/11148098-P?searchTerm=spark+tester
Great video. I've got a 1940 9n and the charging system never worked. I've seen videos and everyone wired up there systems differently and sorta scared me on doing a conversion. So I am ordering both a 12volt charging system and ignition system( always burning up points). Thanks for showing me/us how easy it is to do
Jason - great video, but I have a challenge. 8N is now 12v. Electronic ignition is installed. Power is at the coil - no spark. New coil, cap rotor and wires. Any suggestions?
It just slips over the cam lobes. The inside of it is the same shape as the lobes there for it doesn't rotate. Doesn't need timed,doesn't need and special attention just put it on.
Hi Jason did you need to shorten the alternator bracket so that it didn't hit your harness and plug feed tube? I see the product pictures show 2 holes on the curved bracket and yours only has one.
Hi Scott sorry for the late reply. I did not need to make any modifications to the bracket. The picture that Just8ns has on their website does in fact have two holes. It is also a different shaped bracket then what I have in my video. I do have 2 other tractors with the brackets that are shown in their website. The brackets in the video was the last conversion I did and was surprised to see it was a little different,but it worked fine. The other brackets worked perfectly as well with no issues or modifications needed. If it's coming from Just8ns I'd say you you'll be fine with what they send. The other cheaper brackets to get at Steiner,Ebay,Amazon,etc. I would not recommend.
Sorry if this is a redundant question. I couldn’t make out the 12v battery size and form factor you switched to. Could you please post the battery you chose? Thank you
I don't know what size it was but I got one with the least amount of cold cranking amps and made sure the physical size would fit. You don't need a strong 12 volt battery to turn over a low compression 4 cylinder engine.
Hi Jason what kit number did you use on the front mount distributor upgrade for the electronic ignition . I have a Ford 9N with a front mount distributor
Hi Jason. I ordered the same 12v conversion kit from Just8ns and the same Pertronix kit for my 8N. Its ok to run the red wire to the top of the coil since that is connecting through the resistor? I have the 12 volt 2.5 Ohms coil so it needs a resistor but I thought the pertronix wants battery voltage. The pertronix directions did not make this clear though.
Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes TH-cam doesn't notify me until later that someone posted a comment. This debate comes up often and I agree the directions need to be better. I currently have all 3 of my Fords having the red wire to the top of the coil. Only one of them needed a extra resistor and I have it right into the coil wire and I haven't had any issues. Some say you need to take that red wire from the module and run it straight to the ignition. All I can say is I've never done it and never had a failure.
I just bought a 1947 Ford tractor a week ago, and it was running and driving just fine. I did some repairs, cleaned the engine, and I tried to start it today, Sunday. It turns over just fine, but it will not start. I changed out the solenoid because I broke the old one trying to remove the wires to clean them. Can you help me get my tractor started?
Hi Jason, I watched a few of your great videos on my smart TV. I also watch any other videos on the 9N, 2N, and 8N. I have a 1946 2N since about the middle of the 1960s. It came from a farm in South Holland, IL for the price of $300.00. My dad bought it for our 5 acres. We used it to remove snow, plow a garden, pull a trailer, dig post holes, and mow with a mott mower. Also used it to pull out bushes, small tree stumps, and broken fence posts. I always wondered if the 2N I have came from the factory all grey? Also did it come from the factory with a solution in the tires for weight? I won't change to the 12 volt electronic ignition because of the EMP threat. I would like to get different tires for the front end as the tires on it are shaped funny. I was told the front tires are for onion fields. The tires are skinny round with a center protruding lip. When plowing it is hard to hold the steering wheel steady with these kind of tires. I always wished my dad would have got a later model 8N with the four speed high low range transmission. I have kept the tractor under a roof since owning it. I have the hood off to replace the front axle bushing. I also want to fix the leak down hydraulic system. I believe 90 weight gear lube is recommended for the trans and hydraulic system. For awhile I was using 10 weight hydraulic oil as I didn't know any better. I never see a 2N with the coil spring under the seat. My coil spring broke. I believe the coil spring seat is an upgrade from the curved spring seat. It also has a shock absorber mounted to the seat. On the hood grill it says Ford Ferguson system I believe. I guess that was a hand shake agreement and then it turned ugly when Ferguson saw the money he was loosing. A local Ford Implement dealer replaced the riveted rear axle hubs with bolts and castle nuts locked down with cotter pins. If the Ferguson system is working properly while plowing the tractor's front end is not suppose to climb up and flip over killing the driver. How do I know if this Ferguson System is working properly? Thanks for your videos. Thanks Fred Z Orland Park, IL
Hi Greg! I have a 46 2N as well. My parents bought it back in early 70s I'll try to answer all your questions Yes your tractor would of been all gray. All 9N and 2Ns were all gray No liked in the tires did not come from the factory. You don't need to worry about EMP if you change your plug wires to a non copper core. It sounds like the seat you have was a aftermarket seat that was offered. To know if your lift system is working is simple. If it goes up and can hold weight even after you turn the PTO off your good. Also if it goes down as well. There is no draft control or position control like the 8Ns have. If you have anymore questions feel free to send me a email at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
One of our old Olivers came with an eight volt system. Ever try and find an eight volt battery? Most were converted to 12 volts,and the starters held up under the increased voltage.
8 volt batteries have some challenges with them. First if you just drop it in and expect the 6 volt system to charge it you will be disappointed because they won't. You need to tweak the voltage regulator to be compatible with the 6 volt generator. Your average Joe (including myself) don't understand how that is done. Most of the old generator repair places can do it for you BUT they are almost off the face of this earth. It's a lost art. On this particular tractor there is no voltage regulator. They used a simple cut out relay and there is no adjustment that can be done. One would think you can turn up the generator to produce more juice but the end result would be a burnt up generator. Also personally I like to put all my batteries on battery maintainers or a charger when needed. You will not find a charger for a 8 volt battery.
Thank you this was a great video in explanation and quality of editing and images. I recently was given my grandfathers 1947 2N and I am in the process of getting it back in order. Do you have or know where a good wiring diagram is for the 12V conversation. My grandfather had it converted already but it is as you describe in the video several times less than desirable quality of wiring. Thank you.
@williamfranklin9350 Thanks! Glad the video helped. I got my wiring harness from Just8ns. Google JMOR 12 VOLT WIRING for 9N/2N Ford tractor. Its a simple diagram that is easy to understand. Hope this helps. Ask if you have questions.
I just bought a rough looking N and the seller said it was a 2N. I can't read the rusty serial number on the block. Everyone and every site says a 2N should have a magneto, but mine and the one in this video have a generator and battery, so I'm confused.
Hey Chuck! There is always a ton of confusion with the difference between the 9N and 2N models. First off the 9N wasn't even around for solid 3 years. Which means there are fewer out there to begin with. Second there were very few 2Ns made with a magneto from the factory. The 2N model was started when the USA got involved with WW2 and building supplies were in short supply. Not all 2Ns were build with steel wheels and a stripped down electric system like people are telling you. Those tractors are very rare and you hardly see them. 2Ns were made from 1942 until 1947. There were a lot of them made and most had a electric system like you see in this video. If you'd like you can send me some pictures of your tractor to jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can look at some of the features and possibly casting codes to get you narrowed down to the possible year.
A 52 8N has a total different design. That would be a side distributor not a front mount. Also the alternator is on the left hand side. Thanks for watching
I got the belt that came with the kit. Standing here looking at it right here. Number is : Helicord 15A 1120 My other 2 Fords have the number Mitsubishi 5L-440 Might be able to go to NAPA and they can cross them to something else. Hope this helps.
where can i found complete kit with coil, alternator+braket (the one you get), pertronix electronic ignition, wiring harnes... i don't find the complete kit
The biggest problem with 6 volt Electronic Ignition is that it is very voltage sensitive. 6 volts drop a lot in voltage when cranking real slow. The electronic module needs 6 volt needs to function. While cranking if it were to drop down to 5 volt you will not start. I'm not saying for sure this is your problem but if it's hard to start but runs fine wants it gets going I would suspect that to be the issue. Try pull starting it once to see if it starts faster. If it does I'd say that is the problem. I tried a 6 volt EI once and had no luck. Worn starters can really cause voltage drop as well.
Thanks for your quick reply. Could be starter draw as i believe it to be the original. Battery is new. Would off centering tab on side of distributor housing do anything/help? Thamks
what if engine camshaft was moved during carbon cleaning during head gasket replacement?can it be 180 out of time?or as you said" if dist dog goes in correctly you are timed correctly?Also is 9n HEI kit # different from side mount distributor?thanks.great videos
Yes the kits are different. The front mount distributor has a plate that comes with it. The side distributor just requires a module. Your distributor will only go on one way. You could turn the engine over until your blue in the face then put the distributor in where it fits flush on the cover and you are set. Just make sure your points are set correctly and the distributor is statically timed first if you ever had it apart for repair.
@@johnnygipson9733 You can not use your old plate in the distributor. It comes with a new one. Are you talking about a plate that sits on top where the coil goes that converts the square coil to the round coil?
starlin hembree You wouldn't need it if you are using the original style resistor that's on the firewall. Now if your tractor has some other way of being wired and doesn't use the original resistor then chances are you do.
Take a test light and ground the wire then put the probe on the small stud of the solenoid. If it lights up your starter button is stuck. If it doesn't light up then your solenoid is stuck.
So I have an 8n that I tried converting to 12v. I did everything you did in the bideo here but I’m not getting a spark....new spark plugs replaced distributor cap checked firing order 2 times...still can’t figure it out.
Did you check the little pig tail / spring on the bottom of the coil to make sure it is making good contact with the screw head on the top of the distributor? Did you check with a meter to see you are getting 12 volts at the top of the coil stud when the ignition is on?
My Ford 9n has the wrong radiator in it it has pne that came out of a 2n Ford and a 6volt generator out of an 8n Ford and several other parts out of the 8n and 2n models
Have you ever had one of the original generatirs rebuilt as a 12 volt rather then putting a newer style on it? I've got a local shop that can do this and would love the function if the 12 volt with the look of the original generator. Just curious if there are any other considerations with this.
I tried a contacting a couple companies that will take the original generator and turn it into a alternator. Yes I said alternator not generator. However the tractor generators are too small for this modification unlike the old cars and new trucks. I don't know of anyone locally in my area that modifies the 6 volt generator into a 12 volt. I could send it away to have it done but I'd be in the same boat when it comes to the junk cut out relays. I would still need to use one. Then with me running all the lights and tail lights it just makes better send a to go with a one wire alternator. Alternators are far superior then generators. If I'm going to restore a show tractor and not use it other then a toy I will be sending out the generator to get switched to 12 volts.
It depends. If your having trouble with the starter cranking in cold weather this will help. However you still need a good sound starter. Other then that if your having troubles due to worn out engine or poorly tuned distributor or carburetor then no you'll still have problems.
Excellent video! You may have already covered this, but is a resistor required with a 12 volt system? I currently have a resistor on the ignition wire that goes to the coil. Thank You and keep up the good work!
@TM-hk3ic Thank you for the compliments! So the answer to your question is it depends. You need to see what the resistance of your coil is. These cheap coils made today aren't made very precise. In fact, some 12 volt coils have the same resistance as a 6 volt. I would say it all comes down to quality control and how much of a winding is inside. Anyway, you want at least 3.0 ohms resistance in the coil. Plus I highly recommend using the OEM ballast resistor that is located behind the dash. If your coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance I would recommend adding that resistor (white ceramic) that you are probably talking about. Even if your coil is at least 3.0 ohms resistance and you are not using the electronic ignition It probably won't hurt anything to leave it there. However too much resistance with the EI ignition will cause it to not function properly. Hope this helps you.
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the detailed answer. I am currently switching it over to electronic ignition. Where did you buy your unit? I'd like to get he same thing for my 9N. Thanks again!
On the bottom of both the Oil and Trans pans there are split / cotter pins sticking out. Does any one know what the reason for those is? I have the same on my 48 8n.
Everything you see in the video can be bought at Just8ns. Here is a link for a 9n/2n. The 8n one is slightly different. www.just8ns.com/A8NN12250B-Years-1939-47-Resistor-And-Mounting-Block-Assembly
@@willgould4549 Get a multi meter. Set it to ohms and test the coil by putting on lead on top of the coil where the wire goes then the other lead on the little spring on the bottom of the coil. A 6 volt coil owl have around 1.5 ohms of resistance and a 12 volt coil will have around 3 ohms.
I painfully watched another conversion video before I found yours, ty for a great edited learning video *****
@FTT143 Awesome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Again thank you for all the information on the electrical work
Your very welcome William!! I hope the videos can help you with your future project!
I had to switch my 2n over to 12 volt because I couldn't keep the generators working also..i done this about 10 years ago and havent had a problem since..just did a tune up with points, condenser. And rotor..ive been running this tractor here on my farm for 35 years. People love to see it in my gardening videos..ty for doing this video..
Rick in NC
Thanks for watching Rick. Yeah dealing with charging issues due to junk cut out relays and junk brushes for the generators anymore got to frustrating and expensive keeping it 6 volt
This is a great video on the conversion I have been considering. Great Job Jason!
Great video!... You can't go wrong when you deal with Derek at Just 8N's! I'm fortunate to live about 20 minutes from his shop and he has been a tremendous help every time I go in!
That's awesome!!! I sure wish I lived near by it would save me a bunch on shipping! 😆 Thanks for watching!
Great looking tractor and well cared for. Just performed this same upgrade on a friend's 1946 2N but instead of connecting the red wire of the Pertronix ignition to the coil positive (37:30 in the video) I ran a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the red wire of the ignition. Reason being, if connected to the coil terminal the voltage to the electronics in the ignition is dropped to 8-9 volts by the ballast resistor. This is less than the intended 12-14 volts normally applied to the electronic ignition during operation. One additional modification was to connect a ground wire from the stud that holds the electronics to the plate to the threaded hole where the condenser once attached to provide the best ground possible. Great work!
I've seen that wiring done before. Reason why I didn't do it was I didn't want a wire on the outside of the new wire harness and I didn't want to open it up to put it in.
Does that mean everything else shares that same low voltage?
22:00 to 40:00 electronic ignition section. I had installed one on an 8n side distributor with instructions. This helped out Thanks
The best description of any repair on TH-cam you have.
Thank You!! Glad you enjoyed it!
I rebuilt my Ford 8N last year, changed it over to an electronic ignition, thanks for making this amazing education step by step video Jason!! It started on the first crank over!!
Awesome!! So great to hear!! Have fun with the 8N
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
Jason, I keep coming back to your videos year after year as I do misc maintenance on my ford tractors. Your videos are by far some of the best on these models. Thank you.
That's awesome to hear! Glad they can help you!
One of the best informational videos I’ve seen by far.
I am not a tractor guy but the information on the electrical system was great. Nice looking tractor.
Thanks Charlie! Thanks for watching!
Jason...thanks for posting this video! I kind of stumbled onto your channel, and this conversion really interested me. I don't own a tractor, but enjoy working on vehicles. I wanted to let you know that your presentation was awesome!! Great camera angles so viewers could get a clear view, audio that was clear, and spot-on knowledge of the subject and explanation of the process. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Thanks Robert I really appreciate the compliments!
By the way...that's a beautiful little tractor. Super job on the restoration! I agree with your mind set on the 12v upgrade. It's one thing to enjoy the "originality" of the tractor, but also practicality plays a big part. I'm glad you use it for what it was meant to do...work!
Terrific video! I just bought a Ford 8N and a Ford 900. The 8N is a six volt and it runs fine - I used it last summer to operate a brush hog. The wiring is a mess on both tractors. The 900 uses a 12 volt but the alternator isn't charging the battery. I appreciate gentlemen like you who show me the right way to perform upgrades that don't take away the history of these historic machines. Thank you, Jason!
Your welcome!! Enjoy those Fords!!
you alternator needs to have about 14 v to charge 12v batter measure batt voltage with it running look for 14 volts if yous ee say 8 volt its a 6 volt alternator
Again thank you so much for your help I do not know a lot about these older tractors but I am very much wanting to learn. I enjoy doing all the work myself and do not like having to have other people work on my equipment. So your knowledge and the fact that you will take time to help his extraordinary. Thank you very much
Hi Jason, just got finished watching this entire tape video rather and I’m glad I did because it’s exactly what I’m gonna be doing to my Ford two and when I get up and work on this spring when it gets up warm up West Virginia but I’m converting it over to 12 V and I’m gonna put headlights tail lights and electronic ignition too so it exactlyshow me how to do all that so good take thank you
Your welcome!! Good luck!
My dad did that years ago on a ford tractor, convertto 12. Volt, alternator and electronic ignition. But left the starter as a six volt. Everybody said it would burn out . That starter was never changed ,it started so fast and easy.
There is a common myth out there that a 6 volt starter won't work with 12 volts. Obviously that is false. In all honesty 6 volts is harder on the starter and other components. Like you said the 12 volt system starts these engines so fast.
Just watched this video for the second time, my brother has a 58 8n that sat for a while and was already converted to 12v. It won't run when it gets hot, sooo, so this video explains alot !!! I'm an OK mechanic, so this helped me answer all the question- problems that we are having ! Going to redo it your way!! Thanks! You have no idea how simple you made this for me! Good day! Especially about the resistors, figured there was one in the alternator , Going with electronic ignition also!
Generally if they stop running after it gets hot the coil is the culprit.
@@Jason1Pa yes the coil was , hot to the touch. Maybe still 6v ? I'm just going to start from scratch?
@@stevehamman4465 It's fairly normal for a coil to get hot to the touch,but there is such a thing as too much.
A lot of the 12 volt coils being processed don't have enough windings in them. They are equivalent to a 6 volt. It is important to test any coil with a meter to see how much resistance it has. You may need to add a extra inline resistor. Generally a 12 volt coil will have around 3.0 ohms of resistance where as a 6 volt will be around 1.5 ohms. You can use a 6 volt coil with 12 volt battery but you would need to add a extra resistor.
@@Jason1Pa , Thanks ! This isn't a rush job. , it's to hot outside for this old timer! May have to pick your brain later on! Thanks for the information!, Good day!
@@Jason1Pa , when I was younger my father bought a used blue and grey diesel Ford, New Holland engine. 9n ?? 64 something?. 4 speed . It was burning oil , so was going to have it fixed , dude took it apart then said he couldn't find parts for it. This was 40yrs ago, so ?
Hi, I am back again and having a other look and would like to add a second comment. Always run the earth lead from the battery direct to the engine and then earth the engine to the bodywork, doing it this way gives a perfect power flow to the starter motor and eliminates any loose or dirty connections in the body or frame. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic on trucks and earthmovers for over fifty years so I am talking from experience.
Hi Bob welcome back! You are giving a good tip. However I'm one to try and keep things simple and fallow the book and keep the wiring simple and less of it. I can honestly say I never have had and kind of grounding issues with any of my tractors other then right at the battery posts.
Awesome video. I used your video to do my 12 volt conversion on my 1947 2n. I ordered all my parts through Just8ns and was extremely pleased with the quality of parts. I have my own youtube channel and was going to video my conversion but nothing beats your video. very informative with step by step instructions. Thanks for putting in the work and time in to making this video.
Awesome!! Glad it helped you. Thanks
I subbed to you as well. Looks like some interesting stuff.
Thank you for the sub I really appreciate it.
Just bought a '40 9N with 12V but with points. Gonna get changed ASAP.
Perfectly clear and information filled presentation - thank you, sir!
Joe S (USAF Ret. AK and ID)
i have a 53 dodge trk 6cy uses points no problem if you are having pitting prob on points change dist. condenser may have wrong mfd value or it is def condenser must match coil for max spark very easy to install wrong condenser.
Great video man; had an 8-N on the farm growing up. As a young boy I remember using it to feeding the cattle in the cold winters we used to have in north Georgia back un the 60’s. Rarely did it ever fail to start even in the coldest winter day and If it didn’t, it was always a battery issue. Just don’t make um like that anymore ! Great content and very informative 👍
Thank You!! Glad you enjoyed!
Yes as everyone else said Very good video. I'm like you today I put on and adjusted 3 different sets of points and even a new complete base plate with points set too, for a front distrisbuter and 3 times it ran for one minute and the points would not open and close for more than a minute and it quit running. ....Most New points are junk....I'm going Electronic on this one I have done it in the past and most of the times it's very easy install . When you put your test light on the coil to see if you had power I like to take it one step further and turn the motor over with the test light attached coil to see if the light blinks on and off telling me the points are opening and closing properly....GREAT JOB !!
Thanks Bruce! I normally put a meter on there instead of a test light when I'm actually trouble shooting. A test light will light up with any amount of current but isn't telling you if you got enough.
Appreciate the details and explaining the parts and info on them. Thank you and keep it up
As always another great video watching you work is fun for me keep up the good work I would love to be there with you
Thanks so much William I really appreciate it!! I'm glad you are enjoying them.
@@Jason1Pa Have a happy Easter and next weekend I’m going to West Virginia to meet up with my ford 2N and my grandson Tucker
@williamgawel8467 Happy Easter to you too! Safe travels! Is your grandson named after the car by chance?
@@Jason1Pa no I don’t know where they got that name but that’s the grandson that I have around now he’s only one that I’ll make contact with so he’s going to get this Tractor when we get done and he’s gonna learn how to work on it so have a good day
Very thorough video. Back in the day my Dad had a 9N. He took the front wheels off and replaced them with car tires. It was a lot smoother driving across a plowed field.
Barny Canuck my great grandfather used to do that but it was because he was to cheap to replace the tires with tractor tires but it made it hard to steer.
The bigger tires eat up your steering gears. We have two since new, a 1944 and a 1947. The 1944 had the 4.00-19 replaced with 6.00-16 truck tires then tractor tires in late 1950s. The 1947 still has the 4.00-19s the 1944 has completely worn out 3 sets of steering gears while the 1947 still has the original steering gears. We have now bought new wheels and put the 4.00-19s on the 1944 to much easier steering too.
This is really helpful. Thanks for posting it.
My pleasure
thank you Jason , I was very anxious to hear it running , I hope you'll give that red a new coat, good luck with this piece of antique its beautiful , I just bought one its an 8N original shape it's already converted to 12 volt I will check the conversion as soon as my 8N will arrive to its new home.
Thanks! Hopefully it will get completely stripped next summer an painted correctly. Good luck with your 8N.
MIne's a 1950. Redoing it now. Great video. You do excellent work. Thanks for posting .
Thank you!! Thanks for watching
Piney life Suggested your TH-cam channel and I am here for your guidance. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. And hello, from Romulus, Michigan.
Hello!! Thanks for stopping in and commenting! Hope you find a lot of my Ford videos helpful. Your not too far from the Henry Ford Museum and Village? I've been there a couple times. Along with the Michigan Speedway and Lake Michigan. Very beautiful state!
@Jason1Pa actually at 275/94 in romulus 12 miles w from Henry Ford Greenfield village the family and i go there about 3 times a year The tractor I picked up is about 1947 I cranked it over today just to see if it would it was in gear at moved, did not fire. Wire harness is a mess I would like to get it running. I need to find out if the block is good or not. Do you have a step 1 video? For a known tractor. Meaning I have no idea about this tractor
@@detroitredneckdetroitredne6674 You mean you want to try and figure out what model and year you have?
Nice walk though especially on the ignition . We had upgraded the 8n to 12volt long ago but electronic ignition looks like a nice addition...
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
Jason with your help, I just got Rachel running!!! Total rewire and electronic ignition. Never heard it run this good!! Bought 5 years ago finally get some satisfaction!. Driving her (41 ser# 85407) from Brunswick md to martinsburg wv cause I can't get a trailer..... thanks for your videos, hydros is next
That is great to hear!!! I do have hydraulic repair videos if you have not seen them yet.
Good luck on your trip and be safe!! I Googled the distance and it says about 30 miles. I've given one 35 miles on a tractor run. It will feel slow but take your time. I would highly recommend taking another coil with you. These new ones arn't very good. If you have a extra you probably won't need it.
liked your video nice looking tractor. I am doing and convert a 6N 6volt to 12volt and electronic ignition had a water pump go bad and dump all the antifreeze fan hitting shroud and sheared blade off a never got into radiator. I purchased the old tractor last year to handle job I was doing was a hassle to jumper it all the time. I'm a machanic have work on anything that rolled pushed or carried in door so I here you on the quality poor made products out there these day parts quality products use to last years and if they failed your could repair them or purchase a OEM standard repair kit these days its sucks because if you have a part fail you replace it with a worse quality made part that made in china you be lucky if you get a year out of it
A whole lot of great info. Man I love those old tractor's .
Thanks
@@Jason1Pa hay man how's things going? My name is Sean and I would like to get a full list of names of parts, model numbers and such for the parts you used in the video. I have an 8n that I have to replace all wires on and any and all info will help. It runs but takes a battery and jump box because I've been to lazy to replace the dryroted wiring lol. Thanks
You make such informative videos. This was helpful in so many ways. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!!! Glad it could help.
What ohm coil and which wiring diagram did you use for rest of tractor? I'm very frustrated with my points and am just going to strip it all off and reinstall all new.
If you have a 12 volt system you want a coil with 3.0 ohms. If lower you'll want to add a extra resistor. Google JMAR wiring diagram for your particular model and set up. What issues are you having with the points. EI isn't always going to solve your problem especially if the distributer bushings are worn.
Liked, subscribed, and did the notifications. Like your videos - very well done. I appreciate you taking the hood off of the tractor so that we could see what is going on. WOW- your tractors are CLEAN! I have a 1952 8N with Sherman transmission
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed! Hopefully some new videos being posted soon.
Tractors are clean because I restore them and retire them. 😆
I'd like to get a late model 8N with a Sherman someday. Right now I'm looking around for a Sherman for my 48 8N.
@@Jason1Pa I got lucky when I got mine. I still use it for light work on my place Up North, but I also have a small diesel kubota with a front loader and 4wd (and power steering).... Great machine.. already converted to 12 volts, but none of the gauges are hooked up or lights.. I want to put LED replacement lights in it, then do the body work
@@Jason1Pa Now I want to do the electronic ignition upgrade, too. Can definitely see what you mean about the quality of today's Points & Condensors
@@joecnc3341 the side distributor 8Ns are nice to do the electronic ignition on since you have the round coil. You can get a "hot" one and will have enough resistance with out any extra resistors. Just a word of caution get new plug wires. Get new carbon core. Don't use the copper core wires. They can produce a electronic pulse and damage the electronic ignition module.
@@Jason1Pa Thank You- for the advice. I want to keep "Henry" running.
Great content! So happy you did this like they really should be done. Made the whole process on conversion seem like a cake walk, even though I'm certain it wasn't as easy as you made it seem. The addition of the Dennis Carpenter headlights also was in keeping with the original, being an actual Ford die that made the shell and rings. The braided wire loom was a logical and perfect departure for your connections. Thank you for your efforts. Know that if I should find myself working on a Ford N-series tractor one day, I'll have the know-how and confidence to tackle the job at hand. Will be staying tuned in for all your content in the future.
Thank you Sir I really appreciate the kind words!
@@Jason1Pa just thrilled to see folks who bother to do things that really lend dependability and stick to the standards that made these tractors the workhorse of most folks farms. It was practical advice with common-sense tips on just how to make it come all together well. Thanks for taking a moment to respond back. Be safe and stay well.
ABSOLUTELY ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS IVE SEEN.. YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF ! Thank you
I appreciate it Pete. Thanks
Thank you I can hardly wait until it gets warm enough so I can go up and start working on the tractor
I can't wait for better weather either. We need to dry out too.
@@Jason1Pa same here
So cool! It is nice to see someone taking care of a historical farm tractor!
Great video. I appreciate your attention to detail and the clarity of the video and explanation of what you’re doing. Thanks!
M M Your welcome!! Glad you found it useful. Stay tuned there will be more trouble shooting and how to videos in the future
There is a time for everything. Parts in a bag should you sell and you don't strike me as a seller. I love the fine detail and effort to keep original as most won't have a clue. I never apologize for making my stuff work for me as its mine and I can throw it off a cliff if I want to. You and I both know the satisfaction of using a tool that means something to the holder
'MERICA! awesome video. Really appreciate your knowledge an explanation. I will be buying my first 9N I believe it's a 48. Hopefully my conversion to 12 volts goes smooth
9Ns were made from 1939 to 1942 then came the 2N from 1942 to 1947. Then in mid 1947 the 8N came out and lasted until 1952. Good luck with with your new tractor
Very helpful video. Excellent detail and rationale for each decision. Am impressed with what these old tractors can do
Thank you Sir!! Thanks for watching!
Another "Great" for the video. Nice work explaining the centering of the static timing. When I installed the 1247 electronic ignition on my '50 front mount 8N I think I had to run a separate 12 volt line from the ignition switch with a diode to keep the tractor from running after I shut it off. I did have an after market ignition switch with no accessory terminal though.
traffic czar Thanks! There are many ways these tractors can be wired. I think this is the easiest way to do it.
Thank you Jason for this very informative video. I converted mine to 12 volt using the kit from just 8n's and also there was a guy on the forum I forget which 1 it was.maybe the 8n forum.( I have a 1948 8n by the way,) who pulled the guts out of his coil put an external coil and then ran the coil wire down through the old cap and soldered the secondary coil wire in place where the coil contacts the dist. cap and that's what I did and it works really good I have an external coil that I got from Napa with an internal resistor 12 volt and it really works good and I just wondered what I'd have to do to put the electronic in there I'm using the points and condenser right now so probably just the same thing I just have to solder or just put the The wire coming up from the electronic ignition system to where I placed the coil wire now and that would probably work ideal.🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜🚜btw the old 8n whom I named " BUbba-Tom" starts@the first punch of the starter button after it's warmed up.
Glen
Yes,putting a external round coil is a good choice if you want to make your ignition system almost bullet proof. The square coils of today are just junk. I thought about getting the kit from Yesterday's Tractor at some point but for now I just keep a few extra coils on hand for the Fords. Sounds like you have the right idea when it comes to wiring up the EI just one thing I forgot to mention in the video you need to change the copper core spark plug wires to the modern suppression ones. The copper ones can create a electronic pulse that could damage the EI module.
@@Jason1Pa thank you Jason yeah I'm going to order those wires when I ordered the EI so yeah I read that part in there I guess another reader or viewer had seen that and asked about that so that's what I'm going to do I'm going to order it when I order the kit thank you Jason for what you do I'm going to tune into this I'm going to subscribe so you have a good good day bye 😉😉🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜
@@glennwood1119 Sounds good thanks!
Im the proud owner of a IH 434 witch i got after my dad passed away (it was his) and speaking of coolant i actually cant remember the last time the coolant on it was changed, i think i was 1 or 2 yrs old (im 14 now) so thats 12 yrs of pulling tree stumps out of the ground and driving medium sized row boats to the beach douring hot summerdays (20* plus) and ripping trees out like plants with roots and everything with me at the wheel (i was 10-11 so i remember it like yesterday) and now its sitting in a shed at one of my dads friends (my godfather) where im currently restorating it, i bumped the radiator a few days back and its leaking fluid so its gonna be the dirst time in over a decade its gonna recieve new fluids 💦
It's about time!! 😂 Good luck!
Man am happy you posted this going to change over thanks for the information Jason.
Your welcome! Good luck
Thank you! This video answered a few questions I’ve trying to find answers for regarding an 8n a buddy of mine has that someone swapped the 12v kit over from another 8n onto this one. There has been more than one issue or I should say conflict with the 3/4 12v kit and 1/4 6v system. 😤
Glad the videos helped some. Good luck!
great content, what is the green straw like stuff under the hood/rad cap at 44:39 ? tks
@tonis2u That is the pad that are used to reduce vibration and keep from damaging the radiator. I'm not really sure what they are made of. You can get them at most places that sell Ford parts. Any Ford parts I ever get are purchased either at Dennis Carpenter or Just8ns
I don’t have a tractor yet but I’m glad I watched this video I’m still in the market for a 9n 8n or a 2n
That's great!!! Hope you can find one soon!!
Your very good at teaching a pretend mechanic like me how to do it the right way. Thank you now I'm able to try it myself. At least I've got a video to keep me from messing up. A shad tree mechanic such as myself always ends up with a few extra parts at the end of the job. Lol.
I appreciate the kind words!! I don't consider myself the best teacher in the world but I give it my best. Good luck with your conversion!! And don't worry about those extra parts. Extra parts just shows you made it better!!😂 LOL
Could you make a short video on how you routed the wiring for your lights. Did you include the wire for the headlights in the harness you zip tied to the spark plug tubing? My 41 9n has headlights but no harness. I want to add rear lights just like yours. I'm impressed with your workmanship.
I'm sorry I missed your question. I should do a video on the lights. That question comes up. Since the lights were a add on and never from the factory you can pretty much do it how you want. Really no right or wrong way.
Yes I just zip tied to the spark plug tube.
Thank you for explaining so well!.just what I need to get Rachel running well again. Thanks Tom in md
Thanks Tom and hope you get Rachel running good soon!!
Great video Jason....I have an 8N and it is in rough shape. Had it converted to 12v and this would have been very doable even for a non mechanic like myself. Thank you.
Thanks Tom 😃
Jason... great video... Can you make a video explaining the wiring throughout these tractors? I love how you give an understanding of all the critical features..
That's funny that you mentioned that because I've been thinking about doing a video like that.
Fantastic... My tractor is stilla 6 volt with stuff on it that I'm not sure what it is! The layout of the wiring is the part I'm trying to understand! What wire goes where and why! Thank you for the detail you share!
@@barbschlegel3680 What tractor do you have? 9N 2N 8N?
Google JMOR wiring diagram for 6 volt Ford then the model number. They are pretty easy to fallow wiring diagram.
Jason... I'm not sure.. The tractor was repainted and you can't make out the model number what so ever....I think maybe an 8N... All I know is that it's a 42 Ford!
@@barbschlegel3680 if it's a 42 it's not a 8n. Either a 9N or 2N if you'd like you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can see if I can help you out especially if you can send a picture or 2
thank you Jason, replaced the coil and the 8N runs great.
Dave Gerken Awesome!! That's what I like to hear!!
Great video! our 8N is now 12 volt, electronic ignition is in, power to coil, no spark. New cap, wires, rotor and 12volt coil. Any suggestions?
@BobThielen-t9p Well the frustration with new electric parts can be irritating. I've had more than one coil come out of the box and not work so that's a possibility. Unfortunately the EI modules are voltage sensitive. A little too much or too little and they won't work. Are you using the OEM resistor on the dash? Did you check the resistance on the new coil?
Good video - and I agree with you about the Pertronix.
i've been using them a long, long time. I think the first one I bought was $12 or $18 ( can't remember now - about 1970). Over the years I've converted 7 or 8 vehicles and never had one go bad. Believe me, the're more than $18 now.
I think the whole kit for the front mount distributors is around $130 give or take. Depends on who you get it from. If down the road you'd need to replace the module only it would be around $60
Great video! Thanks for this information. Could you provide the conversion kit that you used?
@maverick7131 Are you referring to the 12 volt kit or the Petronix ignition kit?
I got the 12 volt kit from Just8ns .com by far the best brackets and such in my opinion. I also got the ignition kit from them as well, but believe it or not Summit Racing sells them way cheaper now
Nice neat job there Jason! I just got a 53 Jubilee I’d like to switch over to 12 volt and also the Petronius ignition system. Would send me the links for your suppliers and also the spark gap tester. I’d really appreciate a reliable supplier for this stuff. Thanks for your help. I’m a subscriber so I’m looking forward for more of your videos.
Hi George! Any of my videos about Ford tractors I use parts from either Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter.
I believe I got my spark tester at Advance Auto Parts years ago.
I don't recall how much I payed but it wasn't that much. I'm sure you can shop around other places. I do like this style better then most but there are all kinds of spark testers out there.
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-coil-on-plug-spark-tester-20700/11148098-P?searchTerm=spark+tester
Great video. I've got a 1940 9n and the charging system never worked. I've seen videos and everyone wired up there systems differently and sorta scared me on doing a conversion. So I am ordering both a 12volt charging system and ignition system( always burning up points). Thanks for showing me/us how easy it is to do
Larry Meyers Glad the video helped! Yes there are some scary wiring out there
did you get your tractor wired?
Jason - great video, but I have a challenge. 8N is now 12v. Electronic ignition is installed. Power is at the coil - no spark. New coil, cap rotor and wires. Any suggestions?
How dose the magnic black round thing stay in time for each cylinder,??? Is it splined ??? You did not show that part, .thanks BigAl California.
It just slips over the cam lobes. The inside of it is the same shape as the lobes there for it doesn't rotate. Doesn't need timed,doesn't need and special attention just put it on.
Really nice explanation of conversion. Very professional install!
Looking at getting one of the tractors eventually...not sure which one tho!
Thank You and I'm glad you found it enjoyable. I'm sure you will be happy with either of the models.
I would like to get the same 12 volt kit you showed in the vidio, but I cant find the distributer. can you elaberate?
Everything you see in the video was bought at Just8ns.com. The kit came with everything you need including the alternator. Part number 8N-10300-E
Outstanding video! Tractor looks great 👍
Farmall Fanatic Thanks Farmall Fanatic!! Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Jason did you need to shorten the alternator bracket so that it didn't hit your harness and plug feed tube? I see the product pictures show 2 holes on the curved bracket and yours only has one.
Hi Scott sorry for the late reply. I did not need to make any modifications to the bracket. The picture that Just8ns has on their website does in fact have two holes. It is also a different shaped bracket then what I have in my video. I do have 2 other tractors with the brackets that are shown in their website. The brackets in the video was the last conversion I did and was surprised to see it was a little different,but it worked fine. The other brackets worked perfectly as well with no issues or modifications needed. If it's coming from Just8ns I'd say you you'll be fine with what they send.
The other cheaper brackets to get at Steiner,Ebay,Amazon,etc. I would not recommend.
Absolutely excellent conversion, workman ship first class. Any detractors are just jealous numb-sculls.
Sorry if this is a redundant question. I couldn’t make out the 12v battery size and form factor you switched to. Could you please post the battery you chose?
Thank you
I don't know what size it was but I got one with the least amount of cold cranking amps and made sure the physical size would fit. You don't need a strong 12 volt battery to turn over a low compression 4 cylinder engine.
Thank you, very well done video
Hi Jason what kit number did you use on the front mount distributor upgrade for the electronic ignition . I have a Ford 9N with a front mount distributor
1247 is the kit number. I'm so sorry it took so long to get back to you. Last I checked Summit Racing surprisingly was the cheapest anywhere.
Hi Jason. I ordered the same 12v conversion kit from Just8ns and the same Pertronix kit for my 8N. Its ok to run the red wire to the top of the coil since that is connecting through the resistor? I have the 12 volt 2.5 Ohms coil so it needs a resistor but I thought the pertronix wants battery voltage. The pertronix directions did not make this clear though.
Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes TH-cam doesn't notify me until later that someone posted a comment. This debate comes up often and I agree the directions need to be better. I currently have all 3 of my Fords having the red wire to the top of the coil. Only one of them needed a extra resistor and I have it right into the coil wire and I haven't had any issues. Some say you need to take that red wire from the module and run it straight to the ignition. All I can say is I've never done it and never had a failure.
I just bought a 1947 Ford tractor a week ago, and it was running and driving just fine. I did some repairs, cleaned the engine, and I tried to start it today, Sunday. It turns over just fine, but it will not start. I changed out the solenoid because I broke the old one trying to remove the wires to clean them. Can you help me get my tractor started?
I'm sorry I just noticed your reply. Did you get it going?
Great video Jason so many use full tips in here dave from Ireland
david o leary Glad you enjoyed it Dave!
Hi Jason, I watched a few of your great videos on my smart TV. I also watch any other videos on the 9N, 2N, and 8N. I have a 1946 2N since about the middle of the 1960s. It came from a farm in South Holland, IL for the price of $300.00. My dad bought it for our 5 acres. We used it to remove snow, plow a garden, pull a trailer, dig post holes, and mow with a mott mower. Also used it to pull out bushes, small tree stumps, and broken fence posts. I always wondered if the 2N I have came from the factory all grey? Also did it come from the factory with a solution in the tires for weight? I won't change to the 12 volt electronic ignition because of the EMP threat. I would like to get different tires for the front end as the tires on it are shaped funny. I was told the front tires are for onion fields. The tires are skinny round with a center protruding lip. When plowing it is hard to hold the steering wheel steady with these kind of tires. I always wished my dad would have got a later model 8N with the four speed high low range transmission. I have kept the tractor under a roof since owning it. I have the hood off to replace the front axle bushing. I also want to fix the leak down hydraulic system. I believe 90 weight gear lube is recommended for the trans and hydraulic system. For awhile I was using 10 weight hydraulic oil as I didn't know any better. I never see a 2N with the coil spring under the seat. My coil spring broke. I believe the coil spring seat is an upgrade from the curved spring seat. It also has a shock absorber mounted to the seat. On the hood grill it says Ford Ferguson system I believe. I guess that was a hand shake agreement and then it turned ugly when Ferguson saw the money he was loosing. A local Ford Implement dealer replaced the riveted rear axle hubs with bolts and castle nuts locked down with cotter pins. If the Ferguson system is working properly while plowing the tractor's front end is not suppose to climb up and flip over killing the driver. How do I know if this Ferguson System is working properly? Thanks for your videos. Thanks Fred Z Orland Park, IL
Hi Greg! I have a 46 2N as well. My parents bought it back in early 70s I'll try to answer all your questions
Yes your tractor would of been all gray. All 9N and 2Ns were all gray
No liked in the tires did not come from the factory.
You don't need to worry about EMP if you change your plug wires to a non copper core.
It sounds like the seat you have was a aftermarket seat that was offered.
To know if your lift system is working is simple. If it goes up and can hold weight even after you turn the PTO off your good. Also if it goes down as well. There is no draft control or position control like the 8Ns have.
If you have anymore questions feel free to send me a email at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
One of our old Olivers came with an eight volt system. Ever try and find an eight volt battery? Most were converted to 12 volts,and the starters held up under the increased voltage.
8 volt batteries have some challenges with them. First if you just drop it in and expect the 6 volt system to charge it you will be disappointed because they won't. You need to tweak the voltage regulator to be compatible with the 6 volt generator. Your average Joe (including myself) don't understand how that is done. Most of the old generator repair places can do it for you BUT they are almost off the face of this earth. It's a lost art.
On this particular tractor there is no voltage regulator. They used a simple cut out relay and there is no adjustment that can be done. One would think you can turn up the generator to produce more juice but the end result would be a burnt up generator.
Also personally I like to put all my batteries on battery maintainers or a charger when needed. You will not find a charger for a 8 volt battery.
Thank you this was a great video in explanation and quality of editing and images. I recently was given my grandfathers 1947 2N and I am in the process of getting it back in order. Do you have or know where a good wiring diagram is for the 12V conversation. My grandfather had it converted already but it is as you describe in the video several times less than desirable quality of wiring. Thank you.
@williamfranklin9350 Thanks! Glad the video helped. I got my wiring harness from Just8ns. Google JMOR 12 VOLT WIRING for 9N/2N Ford tractor. Its a simple diagram that is easy to understand. Hope this helps. Ask if you have questions.
@@Jason1Pa Thank you that helps a lot.
I just bought a rough looking N and the seller said it was a 2N. I can't read the rusty serial number on the block. Everyone and every site says a 2N should have a magneto, but mine and the one in this video have a generator and battery, so I'm confused.
Hey Chuck! There is always a ton of confusion with the difference between the 9N and 2N models. First off the 9N wasn't even around for solid 3 years. Which means there are fewer out there to begin with. Second there were very few 2Ns made with a magneto from the factory. The 2N model was started when the USA got involved with WW2 and building supplies were in short supply. Not all 2Ns were build with steel wheels and a stripped down electric system like people are telling you. Those tractors are very rare and you hardly see them. 2Ns were made from 1942 until 1947. There were a lot of them made and most had a electric system like you see in this video. If you'd like you can send me some pictures of your tractor to jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can look at some of the features and possibly casting codes to get you narrowed down to the possible year.
@@Jason1Pa thanks Jason!
Jason,
I've converted my 1939 9n from 6 to 12 volt. I got power to starter switch. Having problems from there..please help me someone..
Do you have power to the coil?
Is the engine cranking over?
Good stuff. Will be using your knowledge on my ‘49 8n. Thank you!👍
Awesome! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great video thank you for sharing, i just bought 52' 8n an find this super helpful. Thanks again and beautiful work!
A 52 8N has a total different design. That would be a side distributor not a front mount. Also the alternator is on the left hand side. Thanks for watching
Did you have to get a shorter fan belt? Mine is now too long. If you did do you know a part number
I got the belt that came with the kit. Standing here looking at it right here. Number is : Helicord 15A 1120
My other 2 Fords have the number Mitsubishi 5L-440
Might be able to go to NAPA and they can cross them to something else.
Hope this helps.
where can i found complete kit with coil, alternator+braket (the one you get), pertronix electronic ignition, wiring harnes... i don't find the complete kit
Everything you see in the video was purchased on Just8ns.com
@@Jason1Pa thank you and your video is very nice!
Great video , you did not mention polarity , did you leave it positive ground with the electronic ignition ?
Did a Petronix 6v distributor conversion. Easy convert. Tractor runs well but hard starting. Started well with points. Any ideas or resolve? Thanks
The biggest problem with 6 volt Electronic Ignition is that it is very voltage sensitive. 6 volts drop a lot in voltage when cranking real slow. The electronic module needs 6 volt needs to function. While cranking if it were to drop down to 5 volt you will not start. I'm not saying for sure this is your problem but if it's hard to start but runs fine wants it gets going I would suspect that to be the issue. Try pull starting it once to see if it starts faster. If it does I'd say that is the problem. I tried a 6 volt EI once and had no luck.
Worn starters can really cause voltage drop as well.
Thanks for your quick reply. Could be starter draw as i believe it to be the original. Battery is new. Would off centering tab on side of distributor housing do anything/help? Thamks
@@raymondpeterson1445 it should be centered
Thanks. Appreciate your help and quick reply.
what if engine camshaft was moved during carbon cleaning during head gasket replacement?can it be 180 out of time?or as you said" if dist dog goes in correctly you are timed correctly?Also is 9n HEI kit # different from side mount distributor?thanks.great videos
Yes the kits are different. The front mount distributor has a plate that comes with it. The side distributor just requires a module.
Your distributor will only go on one way. You could turn the engine over until your blue in the face then put the distributor in where it fits flush on the cover and you are set. Just make sure your points are set correctly and the distributor is statically timed first if you ever had it apart for repair.
Mine came on a flat plate can I make it work on my old breaker plate that had the old points setup
@@johnnygipson9733 You can not use your old plate in the distributor. It comes with a new one. Are you talking about a plate that sits on top where the coil goes that converts the square coil to the round coil?
I got the electric module for a side mount 8N I was wondering can I mount them on my old breaker plate
@johnnygipson9733 No
Hello Jason I have a 8n 12volt with a 12volt coil also along with the white resistor so I don't need that great video
starlin hembree You wouldn't need it if you are using the original style resistor that's on the firewall. Now if your tractor has some other way of being wired and doesn't use the original resistor then chances are you do.
So I converted my 8n now starts by itself when I connect the battery any ideas why it’s doing that ?
Take a test light and ground the wire then put the probe on the small stud of the solenoid. If it lights up your starter button is stuck. If it doesn't light up then your solenoid is stuck.
One question I have. What about the starter motor which was originally designed for 6volt system?
No need to do anything it can handle 12 volts.
Thanks for that!
Great video! It was very well done.
So I have an 8n that I tried converting to 12v. I did everything you did in the bideo here but I’m not getting a spark....new spark plugs replaced distributor cap checked firing order 2 times...still can’t figure it out.
Did you check the little pig tail / spring on the bottom of the coil to make sure it is making good contact with the screw head on the top of the distributor? Did you check with a meter to see you are getting 12 volts at the top of the coil stud when the ignition is on?
My Ford 9n has the wrong radiator in it it has pne that came out of a 2n Ford and a 6volt generator out of an 8n Ford and several other parts out of the 8n and 2n models
Have you ever had one of the original generatirs rebuilt as a 12 volt rather then putting a newer style on it? I've got a local shop that can do this and would love the function if the 12 volt with the look of the original generator. Just curious if there are any other considerations with this.
I tried a contacting a couple companies that will take the original generator and turn it into a alternator. Yes I said alternator not generator. However the tractor generators are too small for this modification unlike the old cars and new trucks. I don't know of anyone locally in my area that modifies the 6 volt generator into a 12 volt. I could send it away to have it done but I'd be in the same boat when it comes to the junk cut out relays. I would still need to use one. Then with me running all the lights and tail lights it just makes better send a to go with a one wire alternator. Alternators are far superior then generators. If I'm going to restore a show tractor and not use it other then a toy I will be sending out the generator to get switched to 12 volts.
Will this solve the winter starting problem? It is all I care about. Or for that fuel injection is needed?
It depends. If your having trouble with the starter cranking in cold weather this will help. However you still need a good sound starter. Other then that if your having troubles due to worn out engine or poorly tuned distributor or carburetor then no you'll still have problems.
Excellent video! You may have already covered this, but is a resistor required with a 12 volt system? I currently have a resistor on the ignition wire that goes to the coil. Thank You and keep up the good work!
@TM-hk3ic Thank you for the compliments! So the answer to your question is it depends. You need to see what the resistance of your coil is. These cheap coils made today aren't made very precise. In fact, some 12 volt coils have the same resistance as a 6 volt. I would say it all comes down to quality control and how much of a winding is inside. Anyway, you want at least 3.0 ohms resistance in the coil. Plus I highly recommend using the OEM ballast resistor that is located behind the dash. If your coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance I would recommend adding that resistor (white ceramic) that you are probably talking about. Even if your coil is at least 3.0 ohms resistance and you are not using the electronic ignition It probably won't hurt anything to leave it there. However too much resistance with the EI ignition will cause it to not function properly. Hope this helps you.
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the detailed answer. I am currently switching it over to electronic ignition. Where did you buy your unit? I'd like to get he same thing for my 9N.
Thanks again!
On the bottom of both the Oil and Trans pans there are split / cotter pins sticking out. Does any one know what the reason for those is? I have the same on my 48 8n.
Those are there to keep the hole from plugging up. So when you have a seal leak the oil will drain out instead of get on the clutch.
How or where can you get a replacement resistor like that instead of the little in line?
Everything you see in the video can be bought at Just8ns. Here is a link for a 9n/2n. The 8n one is slightly different.
www.just8ns.com/A8NN12250B-Years-1939-47-Resistor-And-Mounting-Block-Assembly
Also how do you tell if you’re distributer is 6v or 12v
@@willgould4549 There is no difference. Only one kind of distributor. Doesn't matter 6 or 12 volt
I meant coil sorry
@@willgould4549 Get a multi meter. Set it to ohms and test the coil by putting on lead on top of the coil where the wire goes then the other lead on the little spring on the bottom of the coil. A 6 volt coil owl have around 1.5 ohms of resistance and a 12 volt coil will have around 3 ohms.