Just got my first bike 01 yzf600 and I must say, because of your beautifully detailed description on your video, I can do this myself tomorrow!! Thanks my dude!! 👍👍👍
Hi Willow, i just picked up a 1999 Yamaha YZF600R she turns over but will not start I believe its the carbs gas was left in the tank. You're video really helped me getting the carbs out, great job. Thank you very much!
I have the 2002 version of this bike "identical". I always add fuel stabilizer to the fuel because it sits for about 5 months during the winter in my garage. I am currently in the process of giving her a service, air filter, fuel filter, plugs, oil change. Just wondering if it would be worth it to clean the carbs while i'm at it. It starts beautifully, and only complaint is it bogs down after around 4K RPM until it ridden a little bit, then it seems to be opened up and fine. I think this is due to the air filter being extremely dirty and nasty, not sure if its ever been changed to be honest. Appreciate any advice, Great work on these videos!
Hey Trevor, It sounds like your Extremely Dirty air filter is causing the motor to run rich and it is starting to fouling out the spark plugs. Once it's ridden it clears up because the spark plugs are hot enough to burn off the extra fuel and carbon buildup. So I think changing the air filter and spark plug will fix the problem. If your carburetors have never been cleaned or haven't been cleaned in a long time, then it would be good to take the carburetors off and clean them and remove any fuel buildup on the needle's and jets. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Willow’s World of DIY I’m in the same boat my r6 sometimes lacks power at certain rpm I opened the air filter it is beyond filthy I have never seen a air filter so nasty in my life. It has 55k km on it and probably never had its carbs cleaned 1999. Should I clean the carbs or change the air filter fuel filter and oil and clean spark plugs first and see if it runs fine. It starts okay even after sitting for a while. If the new air filter causes it to run better does the engine burn off its carbs deposits by just running the vehicle? Basically what I’m saying is that is carb clean only meant for a motorcycle that has issues starting? Or is running a bit poorly lack some power an issue related to air filter and by just running my motorcycle regularly my carbs would clean up by running it regularly? I would so appreciate a response thank you
55k is a lot of miles without having it serviced! A clogged air filter will cause the motor to run rich and it won't be able to burn off all that fuel in the cylinders without the oxygen that it needs. It will usually feel sluggish at lower RPM's, especially when the engine isn't up to normal operating temperature. I would definitely replace the air filter or clean it if it has a K&N air filter. I change my oil every 1000 miles and that's what I recommend to everyone, these motors run at very high RPM 15,500 and any metal shavings in the oil can be detrimental to the Internal parts. I change my fuel filter every 3000-5000 miles. Fuel is dirty and running it regularly won't clean the carburetors. Dirty carburetors can cause a wide range of problems. If the motorcycle has sat for a long time like the one in this video it will have starting problems or won't start at all and that's cause by the needles sticking in the main jets. If the motor starts but has a hard time revving up between 1000-5000 RPM and then runs good above 5000 RPM its because the pilot jets are clogged. If the motor runs good below 5000 RPM but has a hard time revving in the 6000-15,500 RPM range then its because the main jets are clogged. I personally think that your problem is most likely the dirty air filter and that's the first thing that I would replace and might as well replace the fuel filter while you have the tank off. The spark plugs probably have some fuel and carbon build up on them from the motor running to rich, if you ride your motorcycle hard (like you stole it), the carbon build up will most likely burn off of the spark plugs, but if cruising is more your style I would pull the spark plugs and inspect them, if the carbon build up is excessive than I would replace the spark plugs. If you are still having problems then pull the carburetors and clean them. I personally would do all of the above because I like my motorcycles to run their best. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Willow’s World of DIY 55k km which is I’m guessing around 35k miles and I bought it at 31k miles I have no clue what the previous owner did to it I ride my bike hard. I have also changed the fuel filter. Debating if I should do everything with the prep work done to just remove the carb because I’m at it and cleaning it. I might just test it before I clean carbs cause it seems like a couple hour process To test the spark plugs I can just pull the coil out a bit and hear for spark like I’d do with a car and look for engine loss of power on idle which goes to normal when coil goes back in, that means my spark plug is good? I really appreciate the response man. I change my oil but not as frequent as 1000 miles, more so 2-3,000 miles with synethic, but even at 3k the oil doesn’t seem too crazy.
Hey I have a 00 r6 and an 01 r6 as I see you also do I took the wire harness off the 00 and put it on the 01 Then found the CDI connection was distinct to each year So I had to change those also Now my head lights work off my blinkers Left blinker my headlight blinks, Right blinker it stays on The light high low does nothing I can tell But after about 7 mile ride the bike died. But restart a while later Ended up draining the battery it’s a little bit frustrating
Good video it came in handy tonight. One question, Are you supposed to see light through the main jet (the bigger one) also? I understand it has a lot of holes around the jet but for instance, is a guitar string supposed to go straight through it like it did with the pilot jet?
If you unscrewed the Main Jet from the Main Jet Holder like I showed in the video @9:30, then you should be able to pass a needle all the way through the Main Jet and you should be able to see light through it. The holes on the Main Jet Holder are really small and I don’t have anything small enough to pass through them. I have tried a guitar string and I couldn’t get it through. I use the tip of a needle to pierce any debris and that allows the air compressor to blow through those holes and clear them out. I have tried it just using compressed air and it wouldn’t clean them out. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video helped me clean mine up, my bike has been overheating whilst idle recently, it's fine when I'm on the highway but as soon as I'm at lights my engine overheating light flashes on, got any ideas?
what's up buddy ? I'm from Brazil, I have a motorcycle like yours, I had already disassembled and reassembled the carburetor once and everything worked fine, but the last time, my wife took and mixed the carburetor parts to use the container I was using. help me please. 8mm wrench, Flathead or other piece does it have to be adjusted or is it just screwed in all the way?
The Jet Holder is the 8mm and the main Jets and pilot jets with flathead all get screwed in till they are tight. Check the Main Jet sizes, if they are all the same then just screw them in till tight. If there is 2 different sizes of main jets then the larger jets sizes go on the outside 2 carburetors and the smaller jet sizes go on the center 2 carburetors. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
i have the same bike my self but 2002 quick question will the 03 swing arm fit it......they changed the style and the color on the 03 i like the way the arm n the rear chassis look ??
How do you replace that plastic bit with the hoses at the front that you left on...? I just got an 01 yamaha r6 that's shooting fuel from there I believe it's called the fuel rail or choke rail or something....
You have to separate the carburetors from each other. There's 2 long bolts on the outside of the 1st carburetor that run through all the carburetors and the 2 nuts are on the outside of the 4th carburetor that hold the 4 carburetors together. You have to remove those 2 bolts to separate the carburetors to replace those plastic pieces. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Top vid! i have 2001 r6, im thinking of doing this, also my bike doesnt idle great, engine just cuts out, i always have to blip the throttle to keep bike running. i messed about with the idle screw but it didnt really make a difference, any ideas to adjust the idle?
It's hard to say without seeing it. I would double check that the idol adjustment knob is threaded into the throttle stop and operating properly. The carbs probably need to be sinked, sinking the carbs can fix a rough idle. The needles could be sticking a little when they seat into the main jets. I would remove the carburetors, clean them and make sure everything is working properly, reinstall the carburetors and sink them up with each other. Sinking the carburetors should smooth out your idle enough for the idle adjustment to work properly. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks for the reply, well my problems got worse today, riding my bike home, engine cuts out at traffic lights due to idle issue but then literally bike would not start, not ever turn over, completely dead, managed to bump start bike to get home but now i suspect the battery isnt been charged! oh joy more issues! any tips tricks on this prob? any vids you would recommend,? cheers man
Sorry to hear that Sam. It sounds like you probably have a problem with your Stator Coil or Regular/Rectifier. Here is a good video that shows you how to test a motorcycles charging system. th-cam.com/video/prkA1fYvhWo/w-d-xo.html They show you how test the Battery, Stator, Regular Rectifier, and check for Parasitic draw. the stator is located inside the left case cover on our R6, you have to remove the seat and the gas tank to get to the electrical connector that you need to test. Find the wire that comes out of the top of the left side case cover and follow it till you find the 3 pronged connector. The Regulator/Rectifier is located right behind the upper rear shock mount on R6"s. Do the test that they show in the video link to determine what the problem is. Most likely it is the Stator, Regulator/Rectifiers do burn out but not as often as Stators. I hope this is helpful.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY do you plan or have a video on how to sync the carbs on this bike. I'm having same rough idle when starting the bike. I'm also planning on changing the push/pull cables just in case that could be an issue. I remember one of them needing to be changed, just can't remember which one.
@@jzboyz I do want to do a carb sink video on the R6. Unfortunately I am out of town with my family right now and don't have my motorcycle or tools with me. I probably won't be heading home for a month or 2 because of the CoronaVirus. I will be happy to make that video for you when I get back home if you still need it. Thanks for watching!
It depends on the situation, if the motorcycle is ridden often, gets new fuel ran through it regularly and has had regular maintenance done, air filter and the fuel filter has been maintained and replaced when needed then you wouldn't need to clean the carburetors often. But if the motorcycle hasn't been ridden often and the fuel has just set in the carburetors for a year or longer then they will need to be cleaned every year or 2 when they dig the motorcycle out of storage and decide to ride it. Also if the maintenance hasn't been regularly done and maybe it doesn't have a air filter or the fuel filter has been bypassed or removed or the fuel filter media is Damaged and not filtering out the debris, then the carburetors will need to be cleaned often. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Are the 2000 yzf r6s carburetors any different. I know the 99-02s are pretty much the same.. not sure if they are this deep. It’d be nice to know that 100% before I dive into my self attempting to save a 800$+ job
Hi! Sorry for the stupid question, when you dissemble the carburettor, do you screw out the fuel/mix screws/needles too? If yes, how do you know how much have to screw in? thx !:)
I didn't remove the air/fuel pilot screws in this video. The carburetors have to be drilled to access the pilot screws but if yours is already drilled and you want to remove them I would tighten them and count the turns before removing them. The Service manual says to set them at 2 turns out but that's just the starting point and it needs to be hooked up to an exhaust gas analyzer to fine tune these adjustments. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching
Hi Willow, I did the procedure and everything went super smooth per the video... no surprises. Reinstalled the carb and everything else no surprises. Turn the key to on you hear that first click but not the dozen or so clicks of the fuel pump building up pressure. Hit the starter and it turns over but you can tell it's starved for fuel. Any thoughts on what might have happen? I did have the carb out of it for a couple of weeks. Is it possible the fuel pump dried out and is kind of seized or went bad or maybe unplugging wiring harness connections something broke or didn't go back together correctly? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
It sounds like a problem with the fuel pump, check the electric wires that go to the fuel pump to make sure it is connected. if the fuel pump is connected and everything looks good but you don't hear the fuel pump running or clicking then the Fuel pump is probably gummed up with old fuel or dried out. I usually tap on the fuel pump a few times with the handle of a screw driver and it will usually help get the pump freed up and running but the fuel pump is going out and will need to be replaced soon. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Make sure you get the hose lines hooked back up correct I did this and had the fuel line going wrong Take it off make sure by putting your finger over it so you know if it’s pushing or sucking and get it to the right point for fuel to flow Your lines are crossed simple👍🏼
why there are a lot of negative echoes on the R6 models from 1999 until 2001 that a lot of engine and engine block failures. And that models up to 2001 should be avoided. I found a 2001 first hand with 8000 km in almost new condition but I am hesitant for fear of ending up with an engine that fails.... I even had a dealer who advised me not to buy…. Can you tell me if you had problems with yours ? Or there is différence with Europeen models ? Thank you
Hey I have a quick question. I got a carb rebuild kit and it came with o rings. Did you have any? I can’t figure out where they go if they go on the carb
The o-rings go on the connections between each individual carburetor. You have to take the 4 carburetors apart from each other to replace those o-rings. If you click on the service manual link in the description of this video and go to page 6-3 you will see where the o-rings go on all the connection points that connect the individual 4 carburetors together. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
This is much needed for me! Bought a bike with an Ivan's Jet kit AND Flo-Commander on it. Not to mention, it a CA bike :( Need to figure out what the heck has actually been put in these carbs; I'm getting stumble at about 6K :(
Hey there sir I have a question I have the same bike and someone put sugar in the tank. And I cleaned the whole system out and tank new fuel filter spark plugs fuel pump. But it cranks up and cuts off do you think that sugar and crap got into the carbs. The carbs have never been cleaned.
I got a question for you you may be able to help me but on the number 4 carburetor the slide needles that were gummed up could you tell me how many washers including the stationary washer are on that particular carburetor number 4? When you remove the needle out of that diaphragm each one of mine had washers which were stationary and then some of them had one and some of them had two I dropped the number four Needle and lost the loose washers I swear it had 2 But I only found one on the floor so I put it back together and it has a sputter after sincing and I am wondering if I could figure out if that has two or one in it. Sorry for the long question didn’t know how else to explain it Or even if you can remember but if you do thank you and I appreciate it
Well the motorcycle in this video was stock and didn't have a jet kit or any spacers. If your R6 has an aftermarket exhaust then it probably has a jet kit in it. you can google search (Dyno jet kit instructions) for your make and model and it will tell you how many spacers should be installed with your motorcycles upgrades. I think most people that have a K&N air filter and aftermarket exhaust run 2 spacers on each needle. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
hi , i have the same bike and having a issue where when i get to 4.5k onwards and open it up it starts bogging almost with loss power, changed plugs, coils are good, was told it most likely be a carb issue but dont want to pay the money the garage is asking, do you think my issue could be the carb? thank you
It sounds like it's not getting enough fuel above 4500 rpm, so I would change the fuel filter if you haven't already because that's easy to replace. But it really sounds like the main jets are clogged to me, and the carburetors will need to be taken apart and cleaned. I think it's the main jets because the 4500rpm you are having problems at. Pilot jets are used from idle to about 4500-4800rpm, main jets really kick in at 4800rpm to red line.So my advice is to replace the fuel filter and clean the carburetors. I hope this is helpful. let me know if you have more questions. Thanks for watching!
Do I need to get them sync or balanced if I do this cause my idle isn't that good and really carries on when trying to give it to it , I put new plugs in didn't help
If it isn't idling well you will need to sync the carburetors to fix it, here is a link to my carb sync video th-cam.com/video/YKY4qkjM9uo/w-d-xo.html . If it's having a hard time revving from idle up to 6k rpm you will need to take the carburetors apart and clean them, most likely the pilot jets are clogged. If it's having a hard time revving from 8k up to 15.5k rpm its because the main jets are clogged. I hope this helps you. Thanks for watching!
There isn't a certain Number of turn on the jets. Just screw them in till they stop and then torque them to 30 inch pounds. You only have to count the number of turns on the air/fuel mixture screws and you have to drill the carburetors to Access some of the air/fuel mixture screws. I didn't remove any of the air/fuel mixture screws in this video. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
There isn't a main jet setting like pilot screws, just different main jet sizes. Setting the pilot screws 2 turns out is the recommend starting point to get you in the ball park. I recommend hooking up an exhaust analyzer to fine tune the air/fuel mixture to get the best performance out of your motor at the elevation you live at. There is different needle sizes and needle shims that will that will also lean or rich the air/fuel mixture. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
You probably could, but the carburetors are so difficult to remove that I think it's worth it to clean all of them while you have them off the motorcycle as a precaution. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
You should be able to stick a small pin through the main jet but only if the main jet is unscrewed from the main jet holder. If the main jet is still screwed to the main jet holder you won't be able to stick a pin through it. If your main jets are about 1 inch long then the main jets are still screwed to the main jet holder. Use a large flathead screwdriver and a 8mm wrench to separate the main jet from the main jet holder. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Yes bro. I am following your carb cleaning, install/removal videos. I plan to put the carb back together by this weekend, change the oil, and change spark plugs. I will also add a teaspoon of marvel to spark plug wells before changing the plugs, just to lube the pistons... You have been great bro... Thanks again.
Bike started fine... cleaned carbs, changed oil, changed spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned fuel pump... Took my time a followed the video... bike started after 15+ years of sitting. Oil was brown. Next: coolant, brake fluid, new stock air filter, sprockets and chain... Ride and see what else might be needed
When I'm working on my own motorcycle's I just inspect them for any damage and if there is none then I reuse them and check for any leaks, but if I was charging a customer to do this job I would just replace them. My 2000 R6 still has the factory float bowl gaskets and I have never had any problems with them leaking, and I have taken the carburetors apart several times. So in my opinion they are reusable but if I'm charging someone I don't want to get the bike back for a leaky gasket so I replace them as a preventative measure. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Couple of more questions if you don't mind. I'm in the middle of this procedure thanks a bunch for creating this video. I notice you don't show cleaning the floats and needle vavle, do you clean these and if so safe to use carb cleaner on it? Also the diaphram slides and jet.. clean those with carb cleaner or wipe down or? Again thanks you're saving me mucho dinero.
The floats and needle valves can be cleaned with carb cleaner (I didn't show it in this video because mine didn't have any build up on them.) The jets and float bowls can also be cleaned with carb cleaner. I just wipe the slides with a clean shop towel, if there is any build up on them then I spray carb cleaner on a shop towel and wipe the slides with it. You want to make sure you DON'T get any carb cleaner on the diaphragms because carb cleaner will dry them out and can cause them to crack over time.
Thanks Joe! My old 2001 R1 was the same process as my R6 they just have different size carburetors. I hope this helps with your rebuild. Thanks for watching!
The jet sizes depend on what the elevation is where you live at. It comes with 152 jets on carburetors 1 & 4 and 148 jets on carburetors 2 & 3. If it has been jetted for your elevation it can be different jet sizes than it came with. So if it has 152 jets on all 4 carburetors you probably live at sea level or the motorcycle did when it was jetted. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Also if you have an exhaust System on it it could have a jet kit installed and they recommend installing #152 main jets on carburetors 2 & 3. It could also have shim's on the needles depending on the elevation.
@@robdixon6862 I have bought race fairings from Sportbiketrackgear.com but if your looking for street fairings there is a lot of new sets on eBay that aren't that expensive. I would use a product like POR 15 fuel tank sealer to treat the rust and seal the fuel tank.
I saw 15 min video, not bad, then I see the carbs are already off, I died a little inside, I only owned the bike for 2 days and it's already died on me in the middle of the road and running fucked
I know the floats should read 17.5-18.5mm with a fuel gauge. I'm not positive what the measurement is with calipers but I have heard 13.5-15mm measuring from the bowl gasket surface. I would pull mine apart and measure them for you if I could but unfortunately I am out of town with my family during this corona virus stuff. I can check mine for you when I get back home in a month or 2 if you're still having problems. I hope this is helpful.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks. Seems nobody has a definite answer. Mine were different heights so I leveled all to one. Has cruising misfires but pulls great under acceleration. I rather adjust once. Instead of trial and error. 😄
Unfortunately I don't think that there is a definitive answer to that question. My Service manual doesn't even give a definitive answer. It say 17.5mm - 18.5mm with a fuel gauge. I can tell you that if you are getting misfire at cruising speed and it is great under full acceleration that you need to come up .5mm - 1mm from the measurement that you set. For example if you set it at 13.5mm I would set it at 14mm - 14.5mm.
I actually think that you are getting to much fuel because the motor run great at full throttle. I would also inspect the needles and seats for any wear while you have it apart. You can bench test them by putting rubber bands around 3 of the floats closing them so you can check 1 at a time and hook up a fuel line to the carburetors. This should show you if any of the needles aren't sealing up properly because you will see it dripping fuel with the needle in the fully closed position.
or maybe idk find a video on your bike year model and make instead of saying it's poorly executed because it doesn't work for you your comment is poorly executed ever thought about that one?
I haven't ran mine without clipping the green needle retainer. Sometimes you can get them to clip in by pushing down and pushing in on the 2 sides that need to clip in but if that doesn't work I would sand 1mm off the base of the plastic green needle retainer where it makes contact with the top of the needle to give it the clearance needed to fully clip in.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY very smart man.. I didn't think of that. Kind of scared to alter it. I have seen a few carbs that had the needle holder and spring with no clipping mechanism. Seems like the spring would hold the clip firmly enough against the needle.
The spring will hold it from coming out. I'm just not sure how firmly it will hold it against the needle while the sides are fluttering like they do during running conditions. The needle could possibly walk backward during that fluttering of the slide and jump out of alignment and jam up causing it to stick in a open throttle position. Be aware of the risks of running it like that. You do have a kill switch, hit it if it revs out of control without you controlling it. Other than that I don't see and harm in trying it.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Nah Bro I just sanded the tips down until they all clicked in place. Thanks I guess its not gonna be reversible now but its running great anyways.
This video gives me mad confidence to do it on my own
Another tip, you can repolish jets and mixing tubes with 0000 steel wool. Leaves a factory finish on them that lasts
Just got my first bike 01 yzf600 and I must say, because of your beautifully detailed description on your video, I can do this myself tomorrow!! Thanks my dude!! 👍👍👍
thanks bro, your video makes me no longer doubt to do it myself.
Awesome video! I really appreciate the time you put in all your videos! This is gonna help me tremendously in cleaning my carburetor!
Thanks for the video man. I learned something to clean my own Carburetors appreciate it.
Thank you I got to do this to my r6 as well 👍
You're welcome! I hope my video helps you with your carb rebuild. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!!
Hi Willow, i just picked up a 1999 Yamaha YZF600R she turns over but will not start I believe its the carbs gas was left in the tank. You're video really helped me getting the carbs out, great job.
Thank you very much!
Great video, just a thought , on my 2000 R1 the jets for 2 and 3 are the bigger jets than the 1 and 4 ...
great video. torch tip cleaners work great for cleaning jets.
I have the 2002 version of this bike "identical". I always add fuel stabilizer to the fuel because it sits for about 5 months during the winter in my garage. I am currently in the process of giving her a service, air filter, fuel filter, plugs, oil change. Just wondering if it would be worth it to clean the carbs while i'm at it. It starts beautifully, and only complaint is it bogs down after around 4K RPM until it ridden a little bit, then it seems to be opened up and fine. I think this is due to the air filter being extremely dirty and nasty, not sure if its ever been changed to be honest.
Appreciate any advice, Great work on these videos!
Hey Trevor, It sounds like your Extremely Dirty air filter is causing the motor to run rich and it is starting to fouling out the spark plugs. Once it's ridden it clears up because the spark plugs are hot enough to burn off the extra fuel and carbon buildup. So I think changing the air filter and spark plug will fix the problem. If your carburetors have never been cleaned or haven't been cleaned in a long time, then it would be good to take the carburetors off and clean them and remove any fuel buildup on the needle's and jets. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Definitely makes sense, thanks for the reply!
Love from Nova Scotia!
Willow’s World of DIY I’m in the same boat my r6 sometimes lacks power at certain rpm I opened the air filter it is beyond filthy I have never seen a air filter so nasty in my life. It has 55k km on it and probably never had its carbs cleaned 1999. Should I clean the carbs or change the air filter fuel filter and oil and clean spark plugs first and see if it runs fine. It starts okay even after sitting for a while. If the new air filter causes it to run better does the engine burn off its carbs deposits by just running the vehicle?
Basically what I’m saying is that is carb clean only meant for a motorcycle that has issues starting? Or is running a bit poorly lack some power an issue related to air filter and by just running my motorcycle regularly my carbs would clean up by running it regularly?
I would so appreciate a response thank you
55k is a lot of miles without having it serviced! A clogged air filter will cause the motor to run rich and it won't be able to burn off all that fuel in the cylinders without the oxygen that it needs. It will usually feel sluggish at lower RPM's, especially when the engine isn't up to normal operating temperature. I would definitely replace the air filter or clean it if it has a K&N air filter. I change my oil every 1000 miles and that's what I recommend to everyone, these motors run at very high RPM 15,500 and any metal shavings in the oil can be detrimental to the Internal parts. I change my fuel filter every 3000-5000 miles. Fuel is dirty and running it regularly won't clean the carburetors. Dirty carburetors can cause a wide range of problems. If the motorcycle has sat for a long time like the one in this video it will have starting problems or won't start at all and that's cause by the needles sticking in the main jets. If the motor starts but has a hard time revving up between 1000-5000 RPM and then runs good above 5000 RPM its because the pilot jets are clogged. If the motor runs good below 5000 RPM but has a hard time revving in the 6000-15,500 RPM range then its because the main jets are clogged. I personally think that your problem is most likely the dirty air filter and that's the first thing that I would replace and might as well replace the fuel filter while you have the tank off. The spark plugs probably have some fuel and carbon build up on them from the motor running to rich, if you ride your motorcycle hard (like you stole it), the carbon build up will most likely burn off of the spark plugs, but if cruising is more your style I would pull the spark plugs and inspect them, if the carbon build up is excessive than I would replace the spark plugs. If you are still having problems then pull the carburetors and clean them. I personally would do all of the above because I like my motorcycles to run their best. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Willow’s World of DIY 55k km which is I’m guessing around 35k miles and I bought it at 31k miles I have no clue what the previous owner did to it
I ride my bike hard. I have also changed the fuel filter. Debating if I should do everything with the prep work done to just remove the carb because I’m at it and cleaning it. I might just test it before I clean carbs cause it seems like a couple hour process
To test the spark plugs I can just pull the coil out a bit and hear for spark like I’d do with a car and look for engine loss of power on idle which goes to normal when coil goes back in, that means my spark plug is good?
I really appreciate the response man.
I change my oil but not as frequent as 1000 miles, more so 2-3,000 miles with synethic, but even at 3k the oil doesn’t seem too crazy.
Great video mate my r6 is back on form
Hey I have a 00 r6 and an 01 r6 as I see you also do
I took the wire harness off the 00 and put it on the 01
Then found the CDI connection was distinct to each year
So I had to change those also
Now my head lights work off my blinkers
Left blinker my headlight blinks,
Right blinker it stays on
The light high low does nothing I can tell
But after about 7 mile ride the bike died.
But restart a while later
Ended up draining the battery it’s a little bit frustrating
Good video it came in handy tonight. One question, Are you supposed to see light through the main jet (the bigger one) also? I understand it has a lot of holes around the jet but for instance, is a guitar string supposed to go straight through it like it did with the pilot jet?
If you unscrewed the Main Jet from the Main Jet Holder like I showed in the video @9:30, then you should be able to pass a needle all the way through the Main Jet and you should be able to see light through it. The holes on the Main Jet Holder are really small and I don’t have anything small enough to pass through them. I have tried a guitar string and I couldn’t get it through. I use the tip of a needle to pierce any debris and that allows the air compressor to blow through those holes and clear them out. I have tried it just using compressed air and it wouldn’t clean them out. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video helped me clean mine up, my bike has been overheating whilst idle recently, it's fine when I'm on the highway but as soon as I'm at lights my engine overheating light flashes on, got any ideas?
Is the fan running? What type of antifreeze are you using? Have you made any changes to it that may have caused it to run hotter?
Very nice ! Helped me out a lot.. Thank brother !
How does this bike look and feel in 2020 as far as ride and style ?
Does adding carb cleaner to fuel help?
what's up buddy ? I'm from Brazil, I have a motorcycle like yours, I had already disassembled and reassembled the carburetor once and everything worked fine, but the last time, my wife took and mixed the carburetor parts to use the container I was using. help me please. 8mm wrench, Flathead or other piece does it have to be adjusted or is it just screwed in all the way?
The Jet Holder is the 8mm and the main Jets and pilot jets with flathead all get screwed in till they are tight. Check the Main Jet sizes, if they are all the same then just screw them in till tight. If there is 2 different sizes of main jets then the larger jets sizes go on the outside 2 carburetors and the smaller jet sizes go on the center 2 carburetors. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
great video helped me take on this project
i have the same bike my self but 2002 quick question will the 03 swing arm fit it......they changed the style and the color on the 03 i like the way the arm n the rear chassis look ??
To be honest i'm not sure, I haven't tried to put an 03 swing arm on the 99-02.
Awesome video man. Thank you for making it
How do you replace that plastic bit with the hoses at the front that you left on...? I just got an 01 yamaha r6 that's shooting fuel from there I believe it's called the fuel rail or choke rail or something....
You have to separate the carburetors from each other. There's 2 long bolts on the outside of the 1st carburetor that run through all the carburetors and the 2 nuts are on the outside of the 4th carburetor that hold the 4 carburetors together. You have to remove those 2 bolts to separate the carburetors to replace those plastic pieces. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Top vid! i have 2001 r6, im thinking of doing this, also my bike doesnt idle great, engine just cuts out, i always have to blip the throttle to keep bike running. i messed about with the idle screw but it didnt really make a difference, any ideas to adjust the idle?
It's hard to say without seeing it. I would double check that the idol adjustment knob is threaded into the throttle stop and operating properly. The carbs probably need to be sinked, sinking the carbs can fix a rough idle. The needles could be sticking a little when they seat into the main jets. I would remove the carburetors, clean them and make sure everything is working properly, reinstall the carburetors and sink them up with each other. Sinking the carburetors should smooth out your idle enough for the idle adjustment to work properly. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks for the reply, well my problems got worse today, riding my bike home, engine cuts out at traffic lights due to idle issue but then literally bike would not start, not ever turn over, completely dead, managed to bump start bike to get home but now i suspect the battery isnt been charged! oh joy more issues! any tips tricks on this prob? any vids you would recommend,? cheers man
Sorry to hear that Sam. It sounds like you probably have a problem with your Stator Coil or Regular/Rectifier. Here is a good video that shows you how to test a motorcycles charging system. th-cam.com/video/prkA1fYvhWo/w-d-xo.html They show you how test the Battery, Stator, Regular Rectifier, and check for Parasitic draw. the stator is located inside the left case cover on our R6, you have to remove the seat and the gas tank to get to the electrical connector that you need to test. Find the wire that comes out of the top of the left side case cover and follow it till you find the 3 pronged connector. The Regulator/Rectifier is located right behind the upper rear shock mount on R6"s. Do the test that they show in the video link to determine what the problem is. Most likely it is the Stator, Regulator/Rectifiers do burn out but not as often as Stators. I hope this is helpful.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY do you plan or have a video on how to sync the carbs on this bike. I'm having same rough idle when starting the bike. I'm also planning on changing the push/pull cables just in case that could be an issue. I remember one of them needing to be changed, just can't remember which one.
@@jzboyz I do want to do a carb sink video on the R6. Unfortunately I am out of town with my family right now and don't have my motorcycle or tools with me. I probably won't be heading home for a month or 2 because of the CoronaVirus. I will be happy to make that video for you when I get back home if you still need it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video? How often does the carb need to be cleaned?!
It depends on the situation, if the motorcycle is ridden often, gets new fuel ran through it regularly and has had regular maintenance done, air filter and the fuel filter has been maintained and replaced when needed then you wouldn't need to clean the carburetors often. But if the motorcycle hasn't been ridden often and the fuel has just set in the carburetors for a year or longer then they will need to be cleaned every year or 2 when they dig the motorcycle out of storage and decide to ride it. Also if the maintenance hasn't been regularly done and maybe it doesn't have a air filter or the fuel filter has been bypassed or removed or the fuel filter media is Damaged and not filtering out the debris, then the carburetors will need to be cleaned often. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great videos buddy. Very helpful 👍🏼
Are the 2000 yzf r6s carburetors any different. I know the 99-02s are pretty much the same.. not sure if they are this deep. It’d be nice to know that 100% before I dive into my self attempting to save a 800$+ job
The carburetors are the same 99-02. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Extra! Bravo! 👍👌
Hi! Sorry for the stupid question, when you dissemble the carburettor, do you screw out the fuel/mix screws/needles too? If yes, how do you know how much have to screw in? thx !:)
I didn't remove the air/fuel pilot screws in this video. The carburetors have to be drilled to access the pilot screws but if yours is already drilled and you want to remove them I would tighten them and count the turns before removing them. The Service manual says to set them at 2 turns out but that's just the starting point and it needs to be hooked up to an exhaust gas analyzer to fine tune these adjustments. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching
@@WillowsWorldofDIY yes thank you! Now i understand :D
Hi Willow, I did the procedure and everything went super smooth per the video... no surprises. Reinstalled the carb and everything else no surprises. Turn the key to on you hear that first click but not the dozen or so clicks of the fuel pump building up pressure. Hit the starter and it turns over but you can tell it's starved for fuel. Any thoughts on what might have happen? I did have the carb out of it for a couple of weeks. Is it possible the fuel pump dried out and is kind of seized or went bad or maybe unplugging wiring harness connections something broke or didn't go back together correctly? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
It sounds like a problem with the fuel pump, check the electric wires that go to the fuel pump to make sure it is connected. if the fuel pump is connected and everything looks good but you don't hear the fuel pump running or clicking then the Fuel pump is probably gummed up with old fuel or dried out. I usually tap on the fuel pump a few times with the handle of a screw driver and it will usually help get the pump freed up and running but the fuel pump is going out and will need to be replaced soon. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Make sure you get the hose lines hooked back up correct
I did this and had the fuel line going wrong
Take it off make sure by putting your finger over it so you know if it’s pushing or sucking and get it to the right point for fuel to flow
Your lines are crossed simple👍🏼
why there are a lot of negative echoes on the R6 models from 1999 until 2001 that a lot of engine and engine block failures. And that models up to 2001 should be avoided. I found a 2001 first hand with 8000 km in almost new condition but I am hesitant for fear of ending up with an engine that fails.... I even had a dealer who advised me not to buy…. Can you tell me if you had problems with yours ? Or there is différence with Europeen models ? Thank you
Thanks for that detailed video. Dankeschön!
Hey I have a quick question. I got a carb rebuild kit and it came with o rings. Did you have any? I can’t figure out where they go if they go on the carb
The o-rings go on the connections between each individual carburetor. You have to take the 4 carburetors apart from each other to replace those o-rings. If you click on the service manual link in the description of this video and go to page 6-3 you will see where the o-rings go on all the connection points that connect the individual 4 carburetors together. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
AWESOME vid and THANK YOU too!
This is much needed for me! Bought a bike with an Ivan's Jet kit AND Flo-Commander on it. Not to mention, it a CA bike :( Need to figure out what the heck has actually been put in these carbs; I'm getting stumble at about 6K :(
Hey there sir I have a question I have the same bike and someone put sugar in the tank. And I cleaned the whole system out and tank new fuel filter spark plugs fuel pump. But it cranks up and cuts off do you think that sugar and crap got into the carbs. The carbs have never been cleaned.
If there was sugar in the fuel then you definitely need to clean the carburetors. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
I got a question for you you may be able to help me but on the number 4 carburetor the slide needles that were gummed up could you tell me how many washers including the stationary washer are on that particular carburetor number 4? When you remove the needle out of that diaphragm each one of mine had washers which were stationary and then some of them had one and some of them had two I dropped the number four Needle and lost the loose washers I swear it had 2 But I only found one on the floor so I put it back together and it has a sputter after sincing and I am wondering if I could figure out if that has two or one in it. Sorry for the long question didn’t know how else to explain it Or even if you can remember but if you do thank you and I appreciate it
Well the motorcycle in this video was stock and didn't have a jet kit or any spacers. If your R6 has an aftermarket exhaust then it probably has a jet kit in it. you can google search (Dyno jet kit instructions) for your make and model and it will tell you how many spacers should be installed with your motorcycles upgrades. I think most people that have a K&N air filter and aftermarket exhaust run 2 spacers on each needle. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks man ur always helpful ill look that up now!!
hi , i have the same bike and having a issue where when i get to 4.5k onwards and open it up it starts bogging almost with loss power, changed plugs, coils are good, was told it most likely be a carb issue but dont want to pay the money the garage is asking, do you think my issue could be the carb? thank you
It sounds like it's not getting enough fuel above 4500 rpm, so I would change the fuel filter if you haven't already because that's easy to replace. But it really sounds like the main jets are clogged to me, and the carburetors will need to be taken apart and cleaned. I think it's the main jets because the 4500rpm you are having problems at. Pilot jets are used from idle to about 4500-4800rpm, main jets really kick in at 4800rpm to red line.So my advice is to replace the fuel filter and clean the carburetors. I hope this is helpful. let me know if you have more questions. Thanks for watching!
Is this the same carburetor that is in a 1998 yzf 600r?
I don't think they are the same carburetors, but I'm not a 100% positive.
tnx for making this video!
Do I need to get them sync or balanced if I do this cause my idle isn't that good and really carries on when trying to give it to it , I put new plugs in didn't help
If it isn't idling well you will need to sync the carburetors to fix it, here is a link to my carb sync video th-cam.com/video/YKY4qkjM9uo/w-d-xo.html . If it's having a hard time revving from idle up to 6k rpm you will need to take the carburetors apart and clean them, most likely the pilot jets are clogged. If it's having a hard time revving from 8k up to 15.5k rpm its because the main jets are clogged. I hope this helps you. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks mate
Maybe you can help me. Can the needles be shimmed with the green cap since it wont actually snap in place once washer are put it.
Do you Suppose to clean thru the poilt jet. I mean do you suppose to run something thru the top and come the bottom.
Did you count the number of turns while removing the jets? Or is there a certain number perhaps stated in the manual?
There isn't a certain Number of turn on the jets. Just screw them in till they stop and then torque them to 30 inch pounds. You only have to count the number of turns on the air/fuel mixture screws and you have to drill the carburetors to Access some of the air/fuel mixture screws. I didn't remove any of the air/fuel mixture screws in this video. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Hi do you know if there’s a setting for the main jets, I know that the pilots are two screws out thanks.
There isn't a main jet setting like pilot screws, just different main jet sizes. Setting the pilot screws 2 turns out is the recommend starting point to get you in the ball park. I recommend hooking up an exhaust analyzer to fine tune the air/fuel mixture to get the best performance out of your motor at the elevation you live at. There is different needle sizes and needle shims that will that will also lean or rich the air/fuel mixture. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
My r6 carb needs cleaning now since it's just one that's not spitting gas can I just clean that one and add fuel cleaner for the rest ?
You probably could, but the carburetors are so difficult to remove that I think it's worth it to clean all of them while you have them off the motorcycle as a precaution. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Hey Bro, Should I be able to stick a pin through the center of the Main Jet. I can stick something through the Pilot jet but not the main jet.
You should be able to stick a small pin through the main jet but only if the main jet is unscrewed from the main jet holder. If the main jet is still screwed to the main jet holder you won't be able to stick a pin through it. If your main jets are about 1 inch long then the main jets are still screwed to the main jet holder. Use a large flathead screwdriver and a 8mm wrench to separate the main jet from the main jet holder. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Yes bro. I am following your carb cleaning, install/removal videos. I plan to put the carb back together by this weekend, change the oil, and change spark plugs. I will also add a teaspoon of marvel to spark plug wells before changing the plugs, just to lube the pistons...
You have been great bro... Thanks again.
Bike started fine... cleaned carbs, changed oil, changed spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned fuel pump...
Took my time a followed the video... bike started after 15+ years of sitting. Oil was brown.
Next: coolant, brake fluid, new stock air filter, sprockets and chain...
Ride and see what else might be needed
Should you be replacing the float chamber gasket or are those re-useable?
When I'm working on my own motorcycle's I just inspect them for any damage and if there is none then I reuse them and check for any leaks, but if I was charging a customer to do this job I would just replace them. My 2000 R6 still has the factory float bowl gaskets and I have never had any problems with them leaking, and I have taken the carburetors apart several times. So in my opinion they are reusable but if I'm charging someone I don't want to get the bike back for a leaky gasket so I replace them as a preventative measure. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Couple of more questions if you don't mind. I'm in the middle of this procedure thanks a bunch for creating this video. I notice you don't show cleaning the floats and needle vavle, do you clean these and if so safe to use carb cleaner on it? Also the diaphram slides and jet.. clean those with carb cleaner or wipe down or? Again thanks you're saving me mucho dinero.
The floats and needle valves can be cleaned with carb cleaner (I didn't show it in this video because mine didn't have any build up on them.) The jets and float bowls can also be cleaned with carb cleaner. I just wipe the slides with a clean shop towel, if there is any build up on them then I spray carb cleaner on a shop towel and wipe the slides with it. You want to make sure you DON'T get any carb cleaner on the diaphragms because carb cleaner will dry them out and can cause them to crack over time.
Do you know if the R1 is the same? im looking to do this too. Great video by the way.
Thanks Joe! My old 2001 R1 was the same process as my R6 they just have different size carburetors. I hope this helps with your rebuild. Thanks for watching!
Hey Willow, the numbers on the fuel jets are all 152 on my carb is that okay? its a 2000 Yamaha r6
The jet sizes depend on what the elevation is where you live at. It comes with 152 jets on carburetors 1 & 4 and 148 jets on carburetors 2 & 3. If it has been jetted for your elevation it can be different jet sizes than it came with. So if it has 152 jets on all 4 carburetors you probably live at sea level or the motorcycle did when it was jetted. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Also if you have an exhaust System on it it could have a jet kit installed and they recommend installing #152 main jets on carburetors 2 & 3. It could also have shim's on the needles depending on the elevation.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY wow thank you for the in depth answer !
Good vid. The music absolutely sux and did my head in that much it made it hard to absorb the info
Why does it matter is the 148 go center and the 152 on the outside?
Because the 2 center cylinders run at a hotter temperature then the 2 outside cylinders.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks man I already know I done fucked it up lol 😆
What kind of screw driver did u use to get off the carb bowls
did you figure out what it was
Hell yea brother
Do you need to pay attention to Pilot position or do just tighten down?
The pilot Jet just needs to be tightened down. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Any recommendations for getting plastics, just picked the bike up today. gas tank is rusted, plan to clean it and the carbs first.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Any recommendations for getting plastics, just picked the bike up today. gas tank is rusted, plan to clean it and the carbs first.
@@robdixon6862 I have bought race fairings from Sportbiketrackgear.com but if your looking for street fairings there is a lot of new sets on eBay that aren't that expensive. I would use a product like POR 15 fuel tank sealer to treat the rust and seal the fuel tank.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY That's after I used vinegar right... I will look into the product. Thanks brother.
I saw 15 min video, not bad, then I see the carbs are already off, I died a little inside, I only owned the bike for 2 days and it's already died on me in the middle of the road and running fucked
Thanks bro!
Using calipers, do u know the float height measuring from the bowl gasket surface? Manual calls for a gauge. I don't have one. I have calipers.
I know the floats should read 17.5-18.5mm with a fuel gauge. I'm not positive what the measurement is with calipers but I have heard 13.5-15mm measuring from the bowl gasket surface. I would pull mine apart and measure them for you if I could but unfortunately I am out of town with my family during this corona virus stuff. I can check mine for you when I get back home in a month or 2 if you're still having problems. I hope this is helpful.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY thanks. Seems nobody has a definite answer. Mine were different heights so I leveled all to one. Has cruising misfires but pulls great under acceleration. I rather adjust once. Instead of trial and error. 😄
Unfortunately I don't think that there is a definitive answer to that question. My Service manual doesn't even give a definitive answer. It say 17.5mm - 18.5mm with a fuel gauge. I can tell you that if you are getting misfire at cruising speed and it is great under full acceleration that you need to come up .5mm - 1mm from the measurement that you set. For example if you set it at 13.5mm I would set it at 14mm - 14.5mm.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY yea. Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel. I just didn't want to pull the carb over and over. Thanks for the input
I actually think that you are getting to much fuel because the motor run great at full throttle. I would also inspect the needles and seats for any wear while you have it apart. You can bench test them by putting rubber bands around 3 of the floats closing them so you can check 1 at a time and hook up a fuel line to the carburetors. This should show you if any of the needles aren't sealing up properly because you will see it dripping fuel with the needle in the fully closed position.
Don't forget to change the Float Bowl gasket though
Thank you
Sweet
Ci vuole vasca ultrasuoni per pulire
bro, what is your e-mail adres? i have a question and want to ask that with a image/photo. I can't upload an image in the question here. Thanks.
I tried this on my 2003 but it didn't work how you explained. In fact, it didn't even look the same. Poorly executed video mate.
or maybe idk find a video on your bike year model and make instead of saying it's poorly executed because it doesn't work for you your comment is poorly executed ever thought about that one?
No shit 5eb motor is 99-02 not gonna have the same carb…
Maybe you can help me. Can the needles be shimmed with the green cap since it wont actually snap in place once washers are put it.
I haven't ran mine without clipping the green needle retainer. Sometimes you can get them to clip in by pushing down and pushing in on the 2 sides that need to clip in but if that doesn't work I would sand 1mm off the base of the plastic green needle retainer where it makes contact with the top of the needle to give it the clearance needed to fully clip in.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY very smart man.. I didn't think of that. Kind of scared to alter it. I have seen a few carbs that had the needle holder and spring with no clipping mechanism. Seems like the spring would hold the clip firmly enough against the needle.
The spring will hold it from coming out. I'm just not sure how firmly it will hold it against the needle while the sides are fluttering like they do during running conditions. The needle could possibly walk backward during that fluttering of the slide and jump out of alignment and jam up causing it to stick in a open throttle position. Be aware of the risks of running it like that. You do have a kill switch, hit it if it revs out of control without you controlling it. Other than that I don't see and harm in trying it.
it could also just flood out and stall the motor.
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Nah Bro I just sanded the tips down until they all clicked in place. Thanks I guess its not gonna be reversible now but its running great anyways.