I’ve been battling with my floats all day. I have those same carbs so your video was incredibly helpful! Thank you!!! Hopefully I can have it running tomorrow before work.
Im on the home stretch of a frame up rebuild of a '71 CB500 Four and though i just got it running, ive had the carbs off 3 different times wondering why (after i replaced all the innards of each carb) i was still getting float leakage out of all the carbs at various times with fuel on. This explains it wonderfully and "what is truly meant" by adjusting the heights and what happens when you think you're right on, but ending up only teetering on that shut off point. Glad I saw this before i went BACK to the drawing board on the topic! Big Thanks!
By and far the best for how to videos. Currently working on getting my 94 Honda Magna up and going again but have to rebuild the carbs. His online course on how to tear them down, clean and rebuild them is phenomenal! As is this to further fine tune everything.
I love this channel. Thanks very much, struggling with a carburetor rebuild on a 94 Yamaha. I got them put back together, but mid-range power is terrible. From your videos I have learned that that's probably the needle. I'm going to take them back apart, and check with a float tool that I just purchased. I have a slide caliper that I used before, but it might not have been accurate I guess. I'm also going to recheck to make sure nothing else is clogged. Thanks again!
Hi Cody I’m doing this same thing to my 400F Honda I’ve watched a load of videos on this subject not one of them say leave slit pressure on the float valve spring yours is the best explanation I’ve seen thanks mister I’ll be watching more
@@TheMotorcycleMD I had rebuilt my carbs for the first time. I could have sworn my life i did it right. I watched your video and then went out to the garage to fix my bike cause it had poured fuel from the number 1 and 2 cylinders into the engine when i started it 2 days ago. Armed with your knowledge i tore back into the carbs. Low and behold i had done EVERYTHING correct. When i opened the float bowls, the inside of the bowl and the float on the number 1 and a little on the number 2 were absolutely covered in clear snot. I think i caught some old gas from the fuel pump into the bowl when i started it again after 3 months. Cleaned everything up and removed the snot that had attached itself to the bowls and BOOM... bike ran perfect with no issues when i got it all hooked up. It was either snot from the fuel pump or maybe there was some carb cleaner that had collected some goop that i failed to be able to get out of the darker reaches of the inside of the carbs. But I’m HAPPY now and most importantly, so happy that i knew what to do and found your channel. Now i get to start binge watching!! HAHA
Always good to see a new video from Cody the Motorcycle MD. I wish you had posted this a couple months ago when I had the carbs off my CB750 for the first time. : ) I used that same measuring tool, but had it just barely touching the bottom of each float at the specified measurement (26mm). That's what I had seen people do in other videos. The bike is running fine, but this video makes me think I should have set each float a MM or so higher, so the float was being pushed in just a bit at the 26mm setting. My only worry is that this way of checking float height seems a bit messy. I did my carb work in my basement on a folding table. I guess I could put some Tupperware under the carb to catch the gas. Next time I have to take the carbs off I'll try this technique.
Awesome! Picked up a few new tips and tricks with the rubber bands and going to order a float leve gauge so I don’t have to use my electric caliper. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video !!! It was just what I needed to adjust my float bowls on my bike. I have seen on TH-cam several different ways to do it that looked way complicated but when I seen this video I was like that is awesome, that makes since and I can do it on my own !!! My bike runs great again !! Thank you !!
Hi there Cody,thanks again for your great posts on maintenance with the carburetor (The floats) & thank you for the trouble shoot sheet with all your great info,that's very kind of you friend,again,Excellent skills ,thank you friend 😊😊😊
I wish you mentioned on how to adjust the float level. I’ve replaced the gasket, float needle valve, cleaned the seat, replaced the jets on my number 1 (out of 4), replaced the overflow screw and is still leaking. I noticed that the leaking is actually coming from where the float needle valve is located. And only starts to leak when fuel pump kicks in.
Maybe you can help me I have a 78 Kawasaki 1000 LTD I've taken the carburetors off and cleaned them three or four times runs a little rough full choke until it warms up idles perfect but halfway throttle bogging down 26 mm do you happen to know what the problem could be thank you.
Thanks for all your videos. I don't know why you would want to set the float height differently from the manufacturer spec. You are setting it to a greater height, causing a leaner mixture than expected. The spring is not supposed to be compressed when at the correct height.
Thanks for your invaluable video! Just out of curiosity: I read on the manual the float level should be 12.5 mm. Is there something I'm missing in the procedure? forgive the silly question, I'm just trying to have my cb 650 '80 resurge from ashes...
Hello Cody, i recently discover something interesting for Honda CB750 from 79 to 82, for the 79 bike the float has a metal body that can be adjusted if it is in good condition, for the 80 to 82 to floats are complete plastic, if they has a problem or the after market float comes with a damage or is bad fabricated (that happened to me) it will be necessary to buy another one or replace it. But the 79 float is compatible with the 80 to 82 carbs, so you can buy a 79 float set with the needle and can be use and is adjustable. This can be useful if the carb has needle seats problems or the float height need to be adjusted o corrected. Besides that, i found that those carbs have 3 sets of jets, two are visible the main and secondary main, but the slow jet is cover with a rubber cap, what is the purpose of that jet? because the rubber cap don't allow to pass fuel to that chamber.
Great video sir Cody...my problem with CB 400 spec 1 is that in cyncronizing adjustment screw it's facing the air cleaner box...you can't adjust the screw without rotating the gas throttle. Is there way to make this screw face upward to make it easy to see and adjust..thanks...
Hi, very nice explanation. I am new to bikes just got a 1975 cb550four. Leaking oil from the left side of the engine. Any advices of what could it be ? Thanks
Nice info. Can i ask a question. In what possition the floats shuts off the fuel. In the factory specs measurement of the bowls or when the bowls are completely pressed in ?
Hey Cody, I’ve got an 83 Yamaha xj750 and I stripped one of the air jets under the diaphragm. Wondering if you’ve got any tips for me? I haven’t boogered up the bore (too badly) and thinking about just leaving it in. Thoughts ?
I polished needle seats to perfection. Needle itself looks good, seat is not deformed. Still leaks petrol from all 4 carbs (FZS600 2002). Can it be the seals on seat? I did not drive for 2 years FYI.
Good info. Cheers! What you did not mentioned. Is where exacly you must place tha measure gauge.. in the midle of float by main jet or eather side..? The reading is diferent if you place in diferent places. Hope you got the point.
Thanks for creating such amazing content, you are one of the people that inspired me to create my own! Please keep making such content! (ps. thanks for all the tips about carbs ;p)
Terrific video Cody!👌 I truly appreciate your knowledge and experience. I've just restarted my '82 Goldwing GL1100 after having taken the engine out to fix the starter clutch over the winter and spring. It ran fine last year and started beautifully at first start. Recently, I had an issue with cylinder #2 filling with gas while parked and destroying my starter. I suspect the float needle valve is leaking. Going to run a 50/50'mixture of Seafoam and gas through the carbs to try and clear up the trouble. I will certainly need to take out that giant set of carbs to properly clean them out next winter. What is your opinion on running Seafoam through the carbs like this and do you suggest shutting off the petcock every time you park a bike to prevent flooding the cylinders in case of a leak?
What do you do when you have a V-twin (which the front fork has been customised to be lower) and now one of your cards is way more tilted than the other? Do you have to change the float level accordingly to the new tilt?
@themotorcyclemd any input? I’ve cleaned my carburetor but my 2007 ninja 500 still won’t stay on. Idles randomly in the first few minutes then when it’s warmed up it’s bogs down and turns off then it won’t turn back on. I know I missed the idle screw to clean since I have to drill to it to expose but any feedback on getting my bike running permanently will be greatly appreciated
Hey Cody, keep up the good work! Do you know where I can find adjustable floats that will fit an 83 Honda nighthawk cb55sc? As I'm sure you know these come with non-adjustable all plastic floats.
Thanks - great tutoriials ! I say another vid where you blow down the fuel line you can then hear when the fuel valve opens and closes - what do you think of this method ?
I wouldn’t trust that as a viable conclusion. What if the float is adjustable with a metal tang? If you were to send 100psi from an air tank and the pressure disrupts the float valve hanger causing it to stick? Idk. It may loosen a stick float or clear it for a moment. I’ve had the float stick solid after that though. Also if this is done on a vintage carb that uses the brass floats, it will crush the floats in from the pressure.
@@TheMotorcycleMD sure I understand air from a compressor could do some damage - but this guy was only using his mouth to blow down - you can hear then when the valve opens ? Your videos have been really helpful as I've been rebuilding the carbs on my Bandit 1200. not sure I've found anything that explains the issue thought of low speed fade (like lack of fuel) thinking I should have first checked the tank fuel tap - vacuum (after watching you video on that ) :)
@@iggytate I blew on the pipe to check if valves close. The moisture in my breath made the needles corrode to the seat shaft. Maybe the were a bit tight fitting to start off. Had to scrape some metal off to get them moving freely again. I would use some other type of pressure, not breath.
Hi Cody thanks for the great video. I'm confused though because you made a point in this video 6:00 about checking seating of float in a sideways position with the gauge, also making that point in another video. At 8:30 here however you're using the gauge to measure floats at a 6 o'clock, vertical vs horizontal position. Can you float me an explanation perhaps? :)
Thanks man! Absolutely not. 14.5 is specifically for this year and set. Two years early and it’s completely different. You need to know your exact model and year as all specs are different.
Just got my float bowls replaced, other than visually seeing it leak out the side. What are some of the common clues that your bowls are overfilling? ( I noticed my fuel literally leaking out the side of the bike, how I noticed to get it repaired, but still feel like my carb doesn’t run exactly clean, I mean it is a 1985)
Common clues of bowls overfilling is usually visual. As you said, gas leaks, air box filling with fuel, oil level rise from filling the cylinders and case, wet fouled plugs in some cases.
@themotorcycleMD, can you give me advice with my 1984 cb750f supersport dohc, mine just boggles at 6000rpm wont go up, only at neutral it will but boggles still at faster rpms, just cleaned my carbs very good, but no go, it works perfectly under 6000rpm...
Cody, I was hoping to get your input on a lean problem I'm having with my 1980 Yamaha XJ650, stock airbox and filter, stock exhaust with the outlet opened up by 1/2" but all the rest of the baffles still in place, stock Hitachi HSC32 carbs that have been gone through multiple times, stock pilot jet, non-adjustable needle in factory position, float level set to factory specs and rechecked multiple times and main jets increased from 110 to 116, and NO air leaks. Below 3500 rpm's all 4 cylinders are running almost sloppy fat which is expected with the jetting, but no matter what I do from 4000 rpm and above (5000 in 5th is 65 mph highway speed) the bike goes extremely lean equally on all 4 cylinders and what's really weird is when it is running in a lean condition if I try to richen it up even just a little through the chokes enrichment circuit the engines starts burbling and running like the chokes on instead of running better. been dealing with this for 2 months and I'm out of ideas. Ive had the carbs off so many times that i can completely remove or reinstall the whole set in 5 minutes. Any ideas what could be causing all 4 cylinders to go equally lean above 4000 rpm?
Does that tool adjust to a wider gap for a thicker base and what's the zip tie for a measurement or it was sagging when it touches the float as it gets used up? Thanks for the tips👍
It expands small and wide for what ever application! Zip tie is there just to make sure my little arm doesn’t move at all when checking. Just put it there to add a little resistance when setting the spec on the gauge.
@@TheMotorcycleMD I just ordered myself one of those tools today was there a cheat sheet for others like that rare tool that works on older and newer bikes that you may have to share I used to have a '82 Yamaha xj750j Maxim till parts were too hard to find anymore now I have my friend's '81honda cm400a 2 carburetor set up I miss my 4 in a row set up makes me feel like I'm in my 20's again watching the videos
Bro I need help 98 r1 after 3to4 k acceleration it hesitates But if I'm riding it's ok Rebuild full carb flot needle pilots and main jets like every thing spark plugs are ok coils are ok Battery good I just cant fix it
Hi thx for your videos. I want to ask you, I am going to buy a Honda CBX 750f 87 but engine have an idling RPM on neutral and doesn´t start without choke. I was thinking it must be a dirty carburetor issue is that true? How it´s about maintenance of "valves"(hydraulic tappet).
Best vids out there my yamaha grizz 600 has gas pissing from over flow the carb was rebuilt so I bet someone fucked up I really don't feel like tearing it down I bet the needle and seat is a issue or the float has a leak or it set wrong he may have the float flush so it's not closing the seat. It has bad ass idle drop too, spot on 😔
Plz help me I would appreciate it so much! I have a cb550, it starts right up but it just idles then dies after a little and if I apply by of throttle then it will keep running till I just don’t touch it at all, do I need to clean my carbs??? It starts fine and when I rode the bike I was accelerating and the bike was like jerking or something then it was smooth like after 2 seconds maybe not enouph fuel while I’m accelerating
Yes, rings on the rubber are not good. Wear, worn out. Also, bacteria can grow in the fuel. Been there, had to remove that. Nasty goo causes the valves to stick open. The rubber bands MIGHT put more force on the valve that the float can giving a false ‘it seals’ when in fact it does not. Put the carbs together, in the normal orientation they are on the bike, but not actually on it, and rig up the fuel supply. Mark the fuel level on baby tank once they have filled, and come back 4 hours later. Worked for me. No 1 was leaking. Badly, as expected. New valve, (on all carbs) good clean, biocide added to fuel, and I have not hydraulic locked when trying to start since. 25 years of crud removed, ultrasonic cleaner full of shirt, happy ‘98 GSF600.
I would like you to make the same videos but with the honda shadow 1100 carburetors I already saw a video that you explained but I did not understand it because the carburetors are not set at a stable angle, for example those of harley are set at 20 degrees and then measure the height I don't know if I explain myself!!!
Update Cody my floats were perfect as it turns out the plugged fuel set screws were turned out too much was able to color tune and I took her out for a 200 mile test drive 👍
That's the one thing I feel like I can't get right. Trying to adjust air screws on a 4 carb bike is difficult, I can't tell much difference when I'm turning them at idle. Not sure what I'm listening for and the RPM's are only slightly effected. When I take it for a ride I can tell when I screwed things up and the bike doesn't run as well. I saw a guy in a video adjusting pilot air screws by removing spark plugs on the carbs he wasn't adjusting... so only the cylinder attached to the carb he was adjusting was firing. This way he could see a bigger change in RMP's as he turned the screw. It was on a two carb vintage Honda, but maybe it would work on a 4 carb bike. I can't remember the name of that video.
Read the manual. There is a specific adjustment for each bike. Mine is 1 full and a three-fourths turns out. After that read the spark plugs you can fine tune by seeing the color of spark plugs.
@@TheMotorcycleMD thank you for answering my question bro!! What would cause my plugs to get wet and misfire seems like to me it’s getting to much gas. Could my timing chain tensor cause it to get too much gas and misfire I recently changed it out for a new one
Yeah ya gotta carry them like a baby, the sound of a set of 4 freshly rebuilt carbs hitting the work shop floor is enough to bring a tear to a glass eye.
►► Check out my step by step video guides to cleaning carburetors -www.themotorcyclemd.com/pro-carb-cleans
One of our mutual fans mentioned you gave How2wrench a shoutout. Thanks pal.
I’ve been battling with my floats all day. I have those same carbs so your video was incredibly helpful! Thank you!!! Hopefully I can have it running tomorrow before work.
Im on the home stretch of a frame up rebuild of a '71 CB500 Four and though i just got it running, ive had the carbs off 3 different times wondering why (after i replaced all the innards of each carb) i was still getting float leakage out of all the carbs at various times with fuel on. This explains it wonderfully and "what is truly meant" by adjusting the heights and what happens when you think you're right on, but ending up only teetering on that shut off point. Glad I saw this before i went BACK to the drawing board on the topic! Big Thanks!
By and far the best for how to videos. Currently working on getting my 94 Honda Magna up and going again but have to rebuild the carbs. His online course on how to tear them down, clean and rebuild them is phenomenal! As is this to further fine tune everything.
THANK YOU! This totally changed the game for me adjusting floats!
I love this channel. Thanks very much, struggling with a carburetor rebuild on a 94 Yamaha. I got them put back together, but mid-range power is terrible. From your videos I have learned that that's probably the needle. I'm going to take them back apart, and check with a float tool that I just purchased. I have a slide caliper that I used before, but it might not have been accurate I guess. I'm also going to recheck to make sure nothing else is clogged. Thanks again!
Hi Cody I’m doing this same thing to my 400F Honda I’ve watched a load of videos on this subject not one of them say leave slit pressure on the float valve spring yours is the best explanation I’ve seen thanks mister I’ll be watching more
This video is the only one i've found of this nature and it helped me out of a huge bind. Much appreciated.
Pumped to hear this! Ride safe brother 🤙🏻
@@TheMotorcycleMD I had rebuilt my carbs for the first time. I could have sworn my life i did it right. I watched your video and then went out to the garage to fix my bike cause it had poured fuel from the number 1 and 2 cylinders into the engine when i started it 2 days ago. Armed with your knowledge i tore back into the carbs. Low and behold i had done EVERYTHING correct. When i opened the float bowls, the inside of the bowl and the float on the number 1 and a little on the number 2 were absolutely covered in clear snot. I think i caught some old gas from the fuel pump into the bowl when i started it again after 3 months. Cleaned everything up and removed the snot that had attached itself to the bowls and BOOM... bike ran perfect with no issues when i got it all hooked up. It was either snot from the fuel pump or maybe there was some carb cleaner that had collected some goop that i failed to be able to get out of the darker reaches of the inside of the carbs. But I’m HAPPY now and most importantly, so happy that i knew what to do and found your channel. Now i get to start binge watching!! HAHA
Always good to see a new video from Cody the Motorcycle MD. I wish you had posted this a couple months ago when I had the carbs off my CB750 for the first time. : ) I used that same measuring tool, but had it just barely touching the bottom of each float at the specified measurement (26mm). That's what I had seen people do in other videos. The bike is running fine, but this video makes me think I should have set each float a MM or so higher, so the float was being pushed in just a bit at the 26mm setting. My only worry is that this way of checking float height seems a bit messy. I did my carb work in my basement on a folding table. I guess I could put some Tupperware under the carb to catch the gas. Next time I have to take the carbs off I'll try this technique.
If it’s running great and not dripping while in the side stand, I’d say go with it brother!
@@TheMotorcycleMD Thanks. I haven't noticed any dripping. Where would the carb be dripping from if the floats weren't set right?
Awesome! Picked up a few new tips and tricks with the rubber bands and going to order a float leve gauge so I don’t have to use my electric caliper. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video !!!
It was just what I needed to adjust my float bowls on my bike. I have seen on TH-cam several different ways to do it that looked way complicated but when I seen this video I was like that is awesome, that makes since and I can do it on my own !!! My bike runs great again !! Thank you !!
Thanks Mate. Trying to understand carbs and those adjustemts. Appreciate your time and efforts in explaining them. Cheers!
"Big rubber band.. TWO of them." cracked me tf up, thanks for the vid lol
Super helpful...and your exit track was jammin....my clean 01R6 is been sitting about 11 years ..I need get it running to sell it.
Thanks mate your technique is a very good one & it got my carburetor sorted (finally). Excellent Video.
Great job,
I’ve always wondered , how does Honda get some of these carbs in the frame with out scratching anything? Some of these bikes are so tight.
You know how to share your knowledge! You are the best!
Hello from Poland, many thanks for your tips with carbs job !
Good advice, not sure my shaky old friends will like it when they see they can be replaced by a vise and a handful of elastic bands tho
I need to do this on my Triumph Thunderbird Keihin CVK carbs this weekend. Perfect timing! Thank you Sir!
Incredibly helpful. Thanks, Cody!
Thanks for the clear video you just saved me so much time 👍🏴
Hi there Cody,thanks again for your great posts on maintenance with the carburetor (The floats) & thank you for the trouble shoot sheet with all your great info,that's very kind of you friend,again,Excellent skills ,thank you friend 😊😊😊
Sweet jesus, that, that right there, perfect way to test it. Thank you!
I wish you mentioned on how to adjust the float level. I’ve replaced the gasket, float needle valve, cleaned the seat, replaced the jets on my number 1 (out of 4), replaced the overflow screw and is still leaking. I noticed that the leaking is actually coming from where the float needle valve is located. And only starts to leak when fuel pump kicks in.
Maybe you can help me I have a 78 Kawasaki 1000 LTD I've taken the carburetors off and cleaned them three or four times runs a little rough full choke until it warms up idles perfect but halfway throttle bogging down 26 mm do you happen to know what the problem could be thank you.
Thanks for all your videos. I don't know why you would want to set the float height differently from the manufacturer spec. You are setting it to a greater height, causing a leaner mixture than expected. The spring is not supposed to be compressed when at the correct height.
Hey there buddy, recently discovered your channel. Just wanted to say Kudos from the UK. Great to see some genuine great content. Regards P
Would this method work on a Honda goldwing gl1500 1989k wing US spec Ohio built 49 state model with keihin duel down draft carburetors Cody??🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Your bike videos are just the greatest. I learn so much from them. Thanks so.
Great advice . Finally i bit more confident now with your help #
Love the phillips screwdriver holders on the end of his ear lobes. Amazon?
Yup! Cheap too! 👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks for your invaluable video! Just out of curiosity: I read on the manual the float level should be 12.5 mm. Is there something I'm missing in the procedure? forgive the silly question, I'm just trying to have my cb 650 '80 resurge from ashes...
Well done Cody...
I didn't even know floats were adjustable... haha learning so much!
Some are some are not! The checks are the same 🤙🏻
@@TheMotorcycleMD Yeah, mine aren't and I just thought that was the norm. xD
Thru the years, you have helped an old crappy bike not be so crappy! Cant fix old tho.
Thanks for sharing this cool Trick
Hello Cody, i recently discover something interesting for Honda CB750 from 79 to 82, for the 79 bike the float has a metal body that can be adjusted if it is in good condition, for the 80 to 82 to floats are complete plastic, if they has a problem or the after market float comes with a damage or is bad fabricated (that happened to me) it will be necessary to buy another one or replace it. But the 79 float is compatible with the 80 to 82 carbs, so you can buy a 79 float set with the needle and can be use and is adjustable. This can be useful if the carb has needle seats problems or the float height need to be adjusted o corrected.
Besides that, i found that those carbs have 3 sets of jets, two are visible the main and secondary main, but the slow jet is cover with a rubber cap, what is the purpose of that jet? because the rubber cap don't allow to pass fuel to that chamber.
Does it matter where we purchase Carb rebuild kits? If so, where should we be looking..I Have a 72' CB750
Great video sir Cody...my problem with CB 400 spec 1 is that in cyncronizing adjustment screw it's facing the air cleaner box...you can't adjust the screw without rotating the gas throttle. Is there way to make this screw face upward to make it easy to see and adjust..thanks...
Hi, very nice explanation. I am new to bikes just got a 1975 cb550four. Leaking oil from the left side of the engine. Any advices of what could it be ? Thanks
Nice info. Can i ask a question. In what possition the floats shuts off the fuel. In the factory specs measurement of the bowls or when the bowls are completely pressed in ?
Hey Cody, I’ve got an 83 Yamaha xj750 and I stripped one of the air jets under the diaphragm. Wondering if you’ve got any tips for me? I haven’t boogered up the bore (too badly) and thinking about just leaving it in. Thoughts ?
This is a great help. Many Thanks 👍👍👍👍
I polished needle seats to perfection. Needle itself looks good, seat is not deformed. Still leaks petrol from all 4 carbs (FZS600 2002).
Can it be the seals on seat? I did not drive for 2 years FYI.
Great vids very helpful can you show one on how to do piston rings on a bike i have a honda cbr 400 rr it have spark and fuel but it wount start
Absolutely great video thank you very much greetings from UK
Good info. Cheers! What you did not mentioned. Is where exacly you must place tha measure gauge.. in the midle of float by main jet or eather side..? The reading is diferent if you place in diferent places. Hope you got the point.
Hey Cody - been watching for years. Thanks for all you do. What video are you referring to from Shane?
Thanks for creating such amazing content, you are one of the people that inspired me to create my own! Please keep making such content! (ps. thanks for all the tips about carbs ;p)
Terrific video Cody!👌 I truly appreciate your knowledge and experience.
I've just restarted my '82 Goldwing GL1100 after having taken the engine out to fix the starter clutch over the winter and spring. It ran fine last year and started beautifully at first start. Recently, I had an issue with cylinder #2 filling with gas while parked and destroying my starter. I suspect the float needle valve is leaking. Going to run a 50/50'mixture of Seafoam and gas through the carbs to try and clear up the trouble. I will certainly need to take out that giant set of carbs to properly clean them out next winter.
What is your opinion on running Seafoam through the carbs like this and do you suggest shutting off the petcock every time you park a bike to prevent flooding the cylinders in case of a leak?
Exactly my situation. engine out, change starter clutch, starts like a charm, later leaking gas and misfire on #2. Why is that?!
What do you do when you have a V-twin (which the front fork has been customised to be lower) and now one of your cards is way more tilted than the other? Do you have to change the float level accordingly to the new tilt?
@themotorcyclemd any input? I’ve cleaned my carburetor but my 2007 ninja 500 still won’t stay on. Idles randomly in the first few minutes then when it’s warmed up it’s bogs down and turns off then it won’t turn back on. I know I missed the idle screw to clean since I have to drill to it to expose but any feedback on getting my bike running permanently will be greatly appreciated
Hey Cody, keep up the good work!
Do you know where I can find adjustable floats that will fit an 83 Honda nighthawk cb55sc? As I'm sure you know these come with non-adjustable all plastic floats.
Thanks - great tutoriials !
I say another vid where you blow down the fuel line you can then hear when the fuel valve opens and closes - what do you think of this method ?
I wouldn’t trust that as a viable conclusion. What if the float is adjustable with a metal tang? If you were to send 100psi from an air tank and the pressure disrupts the float valve hanger causing it to stick? Idk. It may loosen a stick float or clear it for a moment. I’ve had the float stick solid after that though.
Also if this is done on a vintage carb that uses the brass floats, it will crush the floats in from the pressure.
@@TheMotorcycleMD sure I understand air from a compressor could do some damage - but this guy was only using his mouth to blow down - you can hear then when the valve opens ?
Your videos have been really helpful as I've been rebuilding the carbs on my Bandit 1200. not sure I've found anything that explains the issue thought of low speed fade (like lack of fuel) thinking I should have first checked the tank fuel tap - vacuum (after watching you video on that ) :)
@@iggytate I blew on the pipe to check if valves close. The moisture in my breath made the needles corrode to the seat shaft. Maybe the were a bit tight fitting to start off. Had to scrape some metal off to get them moving freely again. I would use some other type of pressure, not breath.
Hi Cody thanks for the great video. I'm confused though because you made a point in this video 6:00 about checking seating of float in a sideways position with the gauge, also making that point in another video. At 8:30 here however you're using the gauge to measure floats at a 6 o'clock, vertical vs horizontal position. Can you float me an explanation perhaps? :)
video starts at 2.30
Hi! Cody thanks for your educational videos..Just wanna ask if that 14.5 is the standard ht for all carbs/motorcycle...TIA from Pilippines
Thanks man! Absolutely not. 14.5 is specifically for this year and set. Two years early and it’s completely different. You need to know your exact model and year as all specs are different.
What do you typically charge to rebuild a in-line 4 carburetors?
Excellent video! Really helped!
brilliant video! is this guy a real MD?!?
I am about to tackle an 89 FZR 600 are there any resources you can recommend for the data on the carb I have? where to get parts for it?
Great, easy understandable. Thx.
Just got my float bowls replaced, other than visually seeing it leak out the side. What are some of the common clues that your bowls are overfilling? ( I noticed my fuel literally leaking out the side of the bike, how I noticed to get it repaired, but still feel like my carb doesn’t run exactly clean, I mean it is a 1985)
Common clues of bowls overfilling is usually visual. As you said, gas leaks, air box filling with fuel, oil level rise from filling the cylinders and case, wet fouled plugs in some cases.
What Is the level for a goldwing 1200 1986, my friend?
@themotorcycleMD, can you give me advice with my 1984 cb750f supersport dohc, mine just boggles at 6000rpm wont go up, only at neutral it will but boggles still at faster rpms, just cleaned my carbs very good, but no go, it works perfectly under 6000rpm...
Cody, I was hoping to get your input on a lean problem I'm having with my 1980 Yamaha XJ650, stock airbox and filter, stock exhaust with the outlet opened up by 1/2" but all the rest of the baffles still in place, stock Hitachi HSC32 carbs that have been gone through multiple times, stock pilot jet, non-adjustable needle in factory position, float level set to factory specs and rechecked multiple times and main jets increased from 110 to 116, and NO air leaks.
Below 3500 rpm's all 4 cylinders are running almost sloppy fat which is expected with the jetting, but no matter what I do from 4000 rpm and above (5000 in 5th is 65 mph highway speed) the bike goes extremely lean equally on all 4 cylinders and what's really weird is when it is running in a lean condition if I try to richen it up even just a little through the chokes enrichment circuit the engines starts burbling and running like the chokes on instead of running better. been dealing with this for 2 months and I'm out of ideas. Ive had the carbs off so many times that i can completely remove or reinstall the whole set in 5 minutes. Any ideas what could be causing all 4 cylinders to go equally lean above 4000 rpm?
What are your mixture screws set at ?
I’m having such a melt setting my floats I’m trying this tomorrow
OMG u r great it makes the work most easy for me thanks broooo
You are the best thank you for all your help
Very descriptive , best carb float video thank you mate 20/10
Hi, great video and tips, thanks again. Gus
Does that tool adjust to a wider gap for a thicker base and what's the zip tie for a measurement or it was sagging when it touches the float as it gets used up? Thanks for the tips👍
It expands small and wide for what ever application! Zip tie is there just to make sure my little arm doesn’t move at all when checking. Just put it there to add a little resistance when setting the spec on the gauge.
@@TheMotorcycleMD I just ordered myself one of those tools today was there a cheat sheet for others like that rare tool that works on older and newer bikes that you may have to share I used to have a '82 Yamaha xj750j Maxim till parts were too hard to find anymore now I have my friend's '81honda cm400a 2 carburetor set up I miss my 4 in a row set up makes me feel like I'm in my 20's again watching the videos
Hat Cody, but what can you do if the floats are not adjustable? When they are plastic made and there's nothing to bend and adjust the needle?
Luis Aguilar if it needs to be lowered you could glue a small washer to the tang and hope for the best. Use a good fuel resistant epoxy
Bro I need help
98 r1 after 3to4 k acceleration it hesitates
But if I'm riding it's ok
Rebuild full carb flot needle pilots and main jets like every thing spark plugs are ok coils are ok
Battery good I just cant fix it
Hi thx for your videos. I want to ask you, I am going to buy a Honda CBX 750f 87 but engine have an idling RPM on neutral and doesn´t start without choke. I was thinking it must be a dirty carburetor issue is that true? How it´s about maintenance of "valves"(hydraulic tappet).
Clean the carbs like your life depends on it.
Any way to clean up a rusted gas tank? Mine keep messing up the carbs :/
Great tip Cody thanks 👍
much nicer editing than the workshop. :-) matt are you reading ?
😂
Best vids out there my yamaha grizz 600 has gas pissing from over flow the carb was rebuilt so I bet someone fucked up I really don't feel like tearing it down I bet the needle and seat is a issue or the float has a leak or it set wrong he may have the float flush so it's not closing the seat. It has bad ass idle drop too, spot on 😔
Hey Cody do you have a pair of carbs for a 1982 CB 750 how much would they be and can you rebuild them and add card screens to them
I don’t sorry man.
I have a suzuki katana 750 cc can i change the carburators of my katana 750 cc with the katana 600 cc carburators ?
Plz help me I would appreciate it so much! I have a cb550, it starts right up but it just idles then dies after a little and if I apply by of throttle then it will keep running till I just don’t touch it at all, do I need to clean my carbs??? It starts fine and when I rode the bike I was accelerating and the bike was like jerking or something then it was smooth like after 2 seconds maybe not enouph fuel while I’m accelerating
Sounds like u need a total clean up, from gas tank to exit of carbs.
How can I get more power from nighthawk 1984 700s big danny
Could you do this with water rather than gas....so you don't get gas all over your work space?
Awesome video, tyvm!
Could miss adjusted floats cause a carb to flood?
Yes, rings on the rubber are not good. Wear, worn out.
Also, bacteria can grow in the fuel. Been there, had to remove that. Nasty goo causes the valves to stick open.
The rubber bands MIGHT put more force on the valve that the float can giving a false ‘it seals’ when in fact it does not.
Put the carbs together, in the normal orientation they are on the bike, but not actually on it, and rig up the fuel supply. Mark the fuel level on baby tank once they have filled, and come back 4 hours later. Worked for me. No 1 was leaking. Badly, as expected. New valve, (on all carbs) good clean, biocide added to fuel, and I have not hydraulic locked when trying to start since. 25 years of crud removed, ultrasonic cleaner full of shirt, happy ‘98 GSF600.
I would like you to make the same videos but with the honda shadow 1100 carburetors I already saw a video that you explained but I did not understand it because the carburetors are not set at a stable angle, for example those of harley are set at 20 degrees and then measure the height I don't know if I explain myself!!!
www.themotorcyclemd.com/Twin-Carb-Cleaning-Workshops I have a full video on cleaning VT1100s here!
Great video
Frikkin great video as usual
My float height on my vintage Honda CB900C are not adjustable
Funny I was about to go through my carbs on my 70 Suzuki gs850g has same mikunii carbs thanks
Update Cody my floats were perfect as it turns out the plugged fuel set screws were turned out too much was able to color tune and I took her out for a 200 mile test drive 👍
Thanks so much!
What I want to know is; how do you adjust the pilot screw on a four carb bike at home without analyzing exhaust gas?
That's the one thing I feel like I can't get right. Trying to adjust air screws on a 4 carb bike is difficult, I can't tell much difference when I'm turning them at idle. Not sure what I'm listening for and the RPM's are only slightly effected. When I take it for a ride I can tell when I screwed things up and the bike doesn't run as well. I saw a guy in a video adjusting pilot air screws by removing spark plugs on the carbs he wasn't adjusting... so only the cylinder attached to the carb he was adjusting was firing. This way he could see a bigger change in RMP's as he turned the screw. It was on a two carb vintage Honda, but maybe it would work on a 4 carb bike. I can't remember the name of that video.
Read the manual. There is a specific adjustment for each bike. Mine is 1 full and a three-fourths turns out. After that read the spark plugs you can fine tune by seeing the color of spark plugs.
Do you know the float height for a 2004 suzuki intruder 1500vl? Thanks in advance!
Have u tried a Haynes manual?
@@Pianissimo1970 it's 7 mm already found it but thanks.
Does a shop need the whole bike to clean the carbs and fix the floats on the bike
It is definitely preferred. But doable for sure.
@@TheMotorcycleMD thank you for answering my question bro!! What would cause my plugs to get wet and misfire seems like to me it’s getting to much gas. Could my timing chain tensor cause it to get too much gas and misfire I recently changed it out for a new one
I seen floats fail its rare but seen it
Yeah ya gotta carry them like a baby, the sound of a set of 4 freshly rebuilt carbs hitting the work shop floor is enough to bring a tear to a glass eye.
Ugh, sounds like a nightmare. That and a fresh helmet smacking the concrete. 😭😭
@@TheMotorcycleMD
Yep, slightly worse than balance gauges sliding off the bike in to the shop floor.