Just did this job now, thanks a lot brother. For those struggling to get the cable tie on. Try using the smaller cable ties and be patient. Thanks again for this video. Bless
unbelievable i have spent about 5 years trying to live with a slow coolant leak. Took it to a few mechanics who said the leak was somewhere near the turbo and would be a big job to try and work out and repair where it was leaking from so I lived with it. One day the car doesn't start seems like a fuelling issue, i plug in a cheap obd scanner and see coolant temp is reading as over boiling on a cold engine. Which lead me to replace the coolant temp sensor and low and behold clear as day this stupid sensor has been the issue all along. What a silly place to have a sensor.
I have a leak in my 116i msport. Been having a coolant leak and judt got really bad to the point engine began overheating. I was told now by thr mechanic he has to take the gearbox out in order to gain access to the pipe that's leaking. The leak isn't from the front of the engine bay but behind. Do you have any idea which pipe it could be and what it's called?
It should be the same hose connected with the temperature sensor shown here. There is no other hose behind the engine that I know. The intake manifold has to be taken out to change this hose as the thermostat is behind the Water pump. Gearbox removal is not required but it will give more access
Hello! Did you car also only leak once the engine was cooling off? I think I have th same leak, and it leaks when I leave it overnight to find a big pool of coolant on the ground in the morning. Thank you
Leak while the car has cool down can be the broken thermostat. The temperature sensor hose should only leak while the water pump is running or when the engine is hot, this is my assumption.
Hi there, thank you for this valuable insight I have a F30 N20 too what are the typical symptoms of a slow coolant leak is it observable in the performance of the car? Many thanks
I disconnected the High pressure fuel pump like in this video and now I have code 11A002 (Fuel high-pressure system, fuel pressure: minimum pressure undershot) and P0087 (Fuel rail/system pressure - too low) any ideas?
Is there any difference in power in your car? If the issue is just long start then probably the fuel rail sensor wire might be disconnected or the sensor might be faulty. If power is low it means the high pressure fuel pump got faulty
@@bimmerhacks It goes into limp mode and has a bit of a rough start up, all wires are connected, I had a look online and there is a specific way to put back the high pressure fuel pump, and saw one where he broke the shaft because the piston wasnt reset, I'm going to look tomorrow and see if I have the same issue as that, shall let you know how I get on :)
There's also a chance you just put the HPFP on with the "fork" 180 degrees out. Then the new one went on the right way first try. It's a 50/50 likelihood for right/wrong!
If you are bothered about reliability then you have to change the parts on a regular basis before they fail. I do change only when parts completely fail ;) . O-ring is less than a dollar. By the way if you are planning to change go for the OEM one
Hi i have code 109308 coolant temperature sensor, signal change: Too fast. I take it the sensor is faulty?...the car is overheating as the fan only comes on for about 45-seconds to 1 min, and then goes off..so i assume that the sensor is faulty? please could you advise as i am going to attempt this sensor change. ALSO will any or much coolant come out once senor is out while switch over of sensors?. When you changed over the sensors did you have coolant in the car?. .(p.s separate issues linked to coolant had the thormastat changed being of the year and then this issues started there seems to be a small leak drops of coolant from the joint of where the thermostat joints back of water pump could this case the coolant tempeture sensor code too? thanks car is 118i 2013) thanks for your help in advance
Apologies for the delay. I was on vacation. I am not sure about the fault code you are referring to. I would recommend you to check the live data of Coolant Temperature and Oil Temperature when it shows overheat message. I have seen overheating issue when the coolant temp sensor read correctly and Oil Temp sensor gave a fault value. So you have to consider Oil Temperature/pressure sensor on the Oil Filter housing as well. the Thermostat mounting is a weird design on this engine, I too felt a small inaccuracy can cause leak, so I used a slightly tight high Temperature O-ring where thermostat comes in to the engine/waterpump & also used silicone to avoid any leaks.
I will not say its that easy, but its doable. It might be stuck just because the clips on both sides might be still locking the sensor in its position. You can see the clip that I have shown in the video. Also make sure the leak is from the Sensor side and not from the hose itself as the housing of the hose is also likely to fail. If you are planning to replace the hose itself then just remove the hose from the rear then u have to take the dme out-intake manifold then without applying much force remove the hose from the thermostat. Thermostat is also a delicate part which is prone to coolant leak due to its plastic molding getting weak.
I did not feel like damaging the HPFP when taking it out. No hoses to be disconnected, a little bit caution will do the job. The rear side of engine is too narrow for our hand to go in, but it's doable with a bit of patience
Excellent video by the way. I have the same part slowly leaking on my 1 Series. I have been given a quote to fix it with BMW parts, it's the coolant stopper hose. They recon they'll take the gearbox out to get at it. 4.5hrs labour. About £500 all in. He recons its about the same time wise to take the inlet manifold off?
Make sure u don't have any leaks behind the engine with a endoscopic camera. Other areas are Turbo inlet/outlet The coolant reservoir container or it's bleed screw. The last one is the thermostat, if there is heavy leak it can be cracked thermostat due to improper repair. Worst case scenario, engine burning with coolant due to bad sealing. Nothing else other than this in my experience
@@craftwanderer8802 use your phone camera with the flash ON and try that way. The space is very tight to hold the phone camera so be careful and make sure you don't drop the phone down. First check for bleed screw leak and Turbo hoses leak. To be frank I don't like N13 engine as the oil consumption is high and looks like very less reliable engine to me.(My personal opinion)
Just did this job now, thanks a lot brother. For those struggling to get the cable tie on. Try using the smaller cable ties and be patient. Thanks again for this video. Bless
Thanks boss.. very nice video. going to sort out a leak on the same engine and same location tomorrow
unbelievable i have spent about 5 years trying to live with a slow coolant leak. Took it to a few mechanics who said the leak was somewhere near the turbo and would be a big job to try and work out and repair where it was leaking from so I lived with it. One day the car doesn't start seems like a fuelling issue, i plug in a cheap obd scanner and see coolant temp is reading as over boiling on a cold engine. Which lead me to replace the coolant temp sensor and low and behold clear as day this stupid sensor has been the issue all along. What a silly place to have a sensor.
Great that you solved your issue. But where did the coolant loss go to?
so stupid bmw
They are built to live for 3-5 years or 100000 miles. 😅
interesting indeed, what are the symptoms that you obsereved through out those 5 years? what are the symptoms?
Nice informative video my friend, can i jist ask is this the coolant temperature sensor ?
Yes
I have a leak in my 116i msport.
Been having a coolant leak and judt got really bad to the point engine began overheating.
I was told now by thr mechanic he has to take the gearbox out in order to gain access to the pipe that's leaking. The leak isn't from the front of the engine bay but behind.
Do you have any idea which pipe it could be and what it's called?
It should be the same hose connected with the temperature sensor shown here. There is no other hose behind the engine that I know. The intake manifold has to be taken out to change this hose as the thermostat is behind the Water pump. Gearbox removal is not required but it will give more access
Hello!
Did you car also only leak once the engine was cooling off?
I think I have th same leak, and it leaks when I leave it overnight to find a big pool of coolant on the ground in the morning.
Thank you
Leak while the car has cool down can be the broken thermostat. The temperature sensor hose should only leak while the water pump is running or when the engine is hot, this is my assumption.
@griffonsa you find? i have same problem
@Chico1203 change the o ring or if you can change the whole hose itself
Hi there, thank you for this valuable insight I have a F30 N20 too what are the typical symptoms of a slow coolant leak is it observable in the performance of the car? Many thanks
No change in performance, but a hazard to engine life.
I disconnected the High pressure fuel pump like in this video and now I have code 11A002 (Fuel high-pressure system, fuel pressure: minimum pressure undershot) and P0087 (Fuel rail/system pressure - too low) any ideas?
Is there any difference in power in your car? If the issue is just long start then probably the fuel rail sensor wire might be disconnected or the sensor might be faulty. If power is low it means the high pressure fuel pump got faulty
@@bimmerhacks It goes into limp mode and has a bit of a rough start up, all wires are connected, I had a look online and there is a specific way to put back the high pressure fuel pump, and saw one where he broke the shaft because the piston wasnt reset, I'm going to look tomorrow and see if I have the same issue as that, shall let you know how I get on :)
Ended up getting a replacement HPFP somehow I broke mine :O
@@HarvetWilliams :(
There's also a chance you just put the HPFP on with the "fork" 180 degrees out. Then the new one went on the right way first try. It's a 50/50 likelihood for right/wrong!
Hello😊 thank you for sharing info😉😉 do you ref for the o ring only ? It’s not better to change complete brand new sensor as the car is 11 years old😂 ?
If you are bothered about reliability then you have to change the parts on a regular basis before they fail. I do change only when parts completely fail ;) . O-ring is less than a dollar. By the way if you are planning to change go for the OEM one
Hi i have code 109308 coolant temperature sensor, signal change: Too fast. I take it the sensor is faulty?...the car is overheating as the fan only comes on for about 45-seconds to 1 min, and then goes off..so i assume that the sensor is faulty? please could you advise as i am going to attempt this sensor change.
ALSO will any or much coolant come out once senor is out while switch over of sensors?. When you changed over the sensors did you have coolant in the car?.
.(p.s separate issues linked to coolant had the thormastat changed being of the year and then this issues started there seems to be a small leak drops of coolant from the joint of where the thermostat joints back of water pump could this case the coolant tempeture sensor code too? thanks car is 118i 2013) thanks for your help in advance
Apologies for the delay. I was on vacation. I am not sure about the fault code you are referring to. I would recommend you to check the live data of Coolant Temperature and Oil Temperature when it shows overheat message. I have seen overheating issue when the coolant temp sensor read correctly and Oil Temp sensor gave a fault value. So you have to consider Oil Temperature/pressure sensor on the Oil Filter housing as well.
the Thermostat mounting is a weird design on this engine, I too felt a small inaccuracy can cause leak, so I used a slightly tight high Temperature O-ring where thermostat comes in to the engine/waterpump & also used silicone to avoid any leaks.
Do you happen to have a part number for o-ring?
I bought it from a local shop selling only hoses, seals n o-rings.
I salute this video 💯 times 🫡
is it easy to reach/see from beneath the car i have a slow coolant leak and it is very annoying.
No. It's accessible only from top unless u have a really long hand
Hi bro, can help that turbo cooalnt inline, is it very easy to take out? cuz mine one kinda jam so do not dare to brute force it
I will not say its that easy, but its doable. It might be stuck just because the clips on both sides might be still locking the sensor in its position. You can see the clip that I have shown in the video. Also make sure the leak is from the Sensor side and not from the hose itself as the housing of the hose is also likely to fail. If you are planning to replace the hose itself then just remove the hose from the rear then u have to take the dme out-intake manifold then without applying much force remove the hose from the thermostat. Thermostat is also a delicate part which is prone to coolant leak due to its plastic molding getting weak.
I was thinking of tackling this job myself but i dont want to damage the HPFS
I did not feel like damaging the HPFP when taking it out. No hoses to be disconnected, a little bit caution will do the job.
The rear side of engine is too narrow for our hand to go in, but it's doable with a bit of patience
Excellent video by the way. I have the same part slowly leaking on my 1 Series. I have been given a quote to fix it with BMW parts, it's the coolant stopper hose. They recon they'll take the gearbox out to get at it. 4.5hrs labour. About £500 all in. He recons its about the same time wise to take the inlet manifold off?
It's difficult to take the intake if you don't know where to loosen the nut n bolts ;)
th-cam.com/video/vKtqhC9ivWk/w-d-xo.html
hi, I don't get any water pond and no leaks are visible but my coolant level keeps dropping after I top up
Make sure u don't have any leaks behind the engine with a endoscopic camera.
Other areas are
Turbo inlet/outlet
The coolant reservoir container or it's bleed screw.
The last one is the thermostat, if there is heavy leak it can be cracked thermostat due to improper repair.
Worst case scenario, engine burning with coolant due to bad sealing.
Nothing else other than this in my experience
@@bimmerhacks I don't have a endoscopic camera, is there any way to see it?
@@craftwanderer8802 use your phone camera with the flash ON and try that way. The space is very tight to hold the phone camera so be careful and make sure you don't drop the phone down. First check for bleed screw leak and Turbo hoses leak.
To be frank I don't like N13 engine as the oil consumption is high and looks like very less reliable engine to me.(My personal opinion)
Would this be easier from underneath the car ?
No. You can view better from an angle. The gearbox makes it difficult from underneath as I remember.