BMW 3 series (F30) - 2011-2019, Buying guide with Common Issues th-cam.com/video/SV15lqX30ek/w-d-xo.html 1st gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html 2nd gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/272PBPSS2no/w-d-xo.html Range Rover L322 TDV8 Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/bXPNqXs8isg/w-d-xo.html Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (J120) Critical diesel engine Issues th-cam.com/video/pZZw8ni1ZqE/w-d-xo.html BMW 3 series F30 Issues of ALL Petrol Engines th-cam.com/video/tV3q59Wkdck/w-d-xo.html VW Golf MK7 ALL Petrol Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/4f1aVIA801g/w-d-xo.html VW Golf MK7 GTI & R Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/xiaRO3CEkjs/w-d-xo.html VW Golf MK6 ALL Petrol Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/SWyKL-IK9Ww/w-d-xo.html VW Golf MK7 Diesel Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/ce2WTs_uBos/w-d-xo.html VW Golf MK6 Diesel Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/4isZJFleo9g/w-d-xo.html
I bought my BMW in 2015 brand new with this N13, minor leaks after 4 years/80k km, it started acting out after 100,000km, broke down two times this year and it had over 70% of problems you mentioned. Very accurate research you have done here. Thanks for a few reminders for preventative maintenance!
Ok, let's talk about N13's, first off 1:22, there is also a vacuum line on the back, so remove that one too. Coils will fail, spark plugs are good for 60k if not mapped. Turbo to PCV will crack like never. Diverter valves on these are very very good, miles ahead of old N14, forget about it! Heatshield will rattle because the main part is held on by one bolt, impossible to get to it so just ignore, there is an easy fix for wastegate. Also, no, ATF leak will make gearbox not work so you will notice it in few km, ask me how I know... Additional "coolant pump" is "turbo coolant pump" and you will 1000% brake it if you are pulling the engine, so order it before you do it. Also also also, these have much bigger problem with oil pump chain, if you have a rattle, it might be that and it will cause oil consumption. Oil cooler is fitted to 118, 120, 320, so most of these don't have it ( they should though... ). You will have VANOS problems and sometimes just cleaning the actuators will help, but both will fail, you can count on that. Injectors and HPFP are not really a big problem on these ( were on N14 ), but carbon build up is, so keep that in mind. How do I know all this, I buy broken F20/F21 BMW's to fix and flip, so yeah, had many many broken ones. Keep the spark plugs and coils fresh because when they fail you will get damage to cylinder 2 or 3 and then it's "Game over man, game over!!" Also also also, if you want to see 500 hp N13 build, stick around, we'll have that shit done if it's the last thing I do 😁
@@FBPstudios I can't find a machine shop to put Darton sleeves in mine, and there is a hole in cylinder wall on #2, no one want's to even touch these engines 😅
My 2014 BMW 118i with this engine had a lot of these issues, and some. It all started at around 140k km: Blown headgasket Carbon build-up on injectors Failed ignition coil Both crank seals Thermostat fail One of the welch plugs mentioned at 10:26 completely came out Most of the coolant leaks described in this video, not all of them - yet... Broken dipstick. And right now, I'm having the oil pressure solenoid replaced after I had gotten a red "oil pressure too low" warning, and the car would not finish an automatic oil level measurement and would stop at around 15%. The battery is also starting to fail as the automatic start stop wouldn't work anymore. The car has done 180k km now and I've had enough now. Getting rid of it this coming week. Well done on this video, you've clearly done a lot of research. Thanks for that.
That's a record for this engine. The longest I saw was 160K. Mine is 113 and I've faced thermostat, vanos and sparking plugs failures. Oil consumption is high.
Wow ,this is the most detailed narration I've ever listened to,All the issues you raised here are exactly pointed @ me not a miss! As much as am a lay man I clearly understood, Great teacher Thank you so much.
As a new owner of a 2008 Mini Cooper R55 with 210,000 kilometres. I wish I'd seen this video before I bought it. I still would have but I would have been wiser. Nice channel.Thank you.
Mine is close to 180k kms have broken down once due to failed ignition coil, change oil once a year at 15k kms, have changed some parts preventively. Very happy with it. Will continue to change preventively - video helps thanks looking forward to 400k kms. Looking at the different forums if u drive aggressively u need to maintain aggressively too😂
@@mikeukabam1075 Your oil will last longer than 1,000 miles. But the longer oil churns through an engine, the more it breaks down, and it's viscosity changes. The 5-30 oil you're putting in your car will essentially become 5-20 eventually, or worse if you wait long enough. That's too thin for a car requiring at least 5-30, so the internals relying on proper lubrication will experience more friction, prematurely wearing out your engine. To be on the safe side, no matter what car you own, change your oil every 3k to 5k miles, period. Waiting 10 to 15k miles to change oil can lead to serious sludge buildup down the stretch as well. That will in part depend on the grade of oil filter you're using, amongst other things, but if you're using one of the tiny little paper filters, I wouldn't trust that oil passed 5k, and if you ask me 5k is still pushing it. Furthermore, cars that use its oil to cool the turbocharger have a proclivity to break down the oils viscosity even faster, since turbochargers get so hot when used. Heat breaks oil down (as well as blow by gasses), and based on my own general research and extensively working on my own Mini Cooper, I would never let any car I own get over 5k between oil changes, especially a Mini Cooper, or 4k if that Mini is turbocharged. If I remember correctly, Mini generally recommends every 10k for all their cars, but that's absolute BS for any mini.
This video is so good! Can you make a video about the B38 engine? That would be interesting for those who want a 1 series but are afraid of the N13 engine.
YESSS ! You are the best ! thanks to this video I don't have to look everywhere I already know where are the weaknesses . I can even order parts before taking a look to the engine.
Most comprehensive video i have seen on these issues, and I've seen many! As a proud life long owner of a 2007 Mini n14 its great to know what to keep an eye on. Then of course it hasits own specific transvere issues like the dreaded coolant cross over pipe and the very tight engine bay. Thanks again
I have this engine in my car and i can tell you sadly that you have talked about every single issue i had with the engine and its now 220000 kilometers old and i started to feel dizziness that i have passed through almost every failure you’ve mentioned and thought of the rest of the failures and felt depressed 😂 i even sent it to my friend to check it out so we could talk about it and check the engine again for the rest of the failures regarding the timing chain and cylinder wear-out 🤣🤣
Thanks. Great video (in spite of the many movie intermissions). It's a pity I'm seeing this video just now since I'm experiencing many of these issues, including the oil consumption/ leaks and coolant leaks. F20 116i 135k kms.
I think this engine is much better than described. It consumes less fuel and is very efficient. You can get this power from bigger cc in other brands. I used it more than 100000 kilometers.. the parts need to be replaced with original equipment when the time comes.. ( espicially turbo orings, spark plug, v belt, pulley, block plug ..) I used castrol 5 30 m oil. Antifreeze must be Castrol radicool series. Also, an engine with known problems is better than surprises.. Although the B48 engine has the same power, it has much more fuel consumption.
My wife has a 116i -14. The turbo seized in after 55k km. The car is living a quite hard life with most of the trips short as 2 km with a deep valley in between.
I had an R56 Mini with the N18 engine and boy oh boy did I experience some of those problems. I had the car for 6 (SIX!) months and sold it because I couldn't bear the constant stress of every ride and road trip. This bloody German-french Frankenstein's monster threw a code at me at almost EVERY trip longer than 100 km. In my short ownership, I had to replace the oil dip*hit (of course the tip broke off), a leaking water pump, both VANOS solenoids, complete front struts, the rocker cover gasket was leaky, and despite servicing it with high quality fluids and parts it still idled poorly giving all sorts of weird clunking noises. Before you ask, I had the timing chain checked by a mechanic and it was all fine. Don't get me wrong, those Minis are a blast to ride, but f*ck those blowy-uppy engines, a timing bomb ready to explode your wallet into another stratosphere. Never ever again.
Amazing video! Thank you. I feel like after 7 years with car equipped with N13 maybe its time to get rid of it :D I have noticed increased oil consumption (~ 0.2 L/1000km) and some hesitation when engine is cold. And sometimes car just stalls once after startup.
I had a 118i with this engine, it had almost all of these issues under 130 000KM. It had its coolant hoses and various connectors replaced under warranty twice and it still developed more cooling issues. Poor engine design even though it had decent performance. When it started going wrong it was one problem after the other.
@lindelanimicahtshienda4195 oil change at 8k , plugs and coils at maximum 40k , premium petrol, 100 max motion omv, change all water pup rulments and never buy dayco parts! Buy Inna for the rulments and vaico for the other parts, and for coils and plugs buy only bmw original! For the oil , use liqui moly 5w40 as this motor comsnum oil and works on very high temperature, 5w40 liqui moly is the best.
For all Gasket, PCV, chain stretch, turbo wears, simply use Pao/Ester engine oil and change it out at 10k KM, Fuchs Titan Pros S or Ravenol VST, VMP, all you above issues will be gone , due to the PAO’s oil to resist the turbo’s wearing/thinning out the EO. It did wonders for my N20 and S68, so Good luck guy!
Amazing video, mine has started to idle very badly plus a whistling style noise when it warms up and I touch the accelerator pedal. Any ideas, also the car drinks a lot of oil. Could this be a PCV at fault or something else like VANOS issues
@@eponymous7910 Maybe 10 years ago. Now every single one has been abused, chipped, neglected maintenance etc. There are many good diesel engines, 1.6(and 2.0)HDI, 1.9JTD, Toyota D4D etc. Depends what he wants really.
@@invicible192 Hey if you want I could recommend you some good cars(imo), but you need to give me some criteria, like price range, fuel consumption, size etc. I can't really recommend you much without that but I'd be glad to help if you're deciding what to buy.
I already have the water pulley issue at 50k miles. This engine is nothing but head aches. You didn't tell them about the actuator flaps in the ac tho. Gotta rip the whole dashboard out to fix it 😢
I had the fuel pump relay issue on 2013 F21. Garage I took it to replaced the fuel rail in engine bay but the same issue reoccured the same week Replaced the fuel pump relay myself behind the rear bench which fixed it for cheap
I have 116i 2012 , the motor has sveral noises , specially cold start in summer, when it's hot outside, nobody knows the real caused, need to turn it off then on again so the noise disappear, in winter cold start is ok. Anyways, in i think i had bad luck choosing this motor ,and bmw in general, too problematic, too expensive. I think i am moving to Mazda Mx5 1.5 2015 , please make video. And advice if its a good engine. Thank you so much
Well, of course. It is the EP6FDT engine. From mymotorlist: - The power unit has been seriously updated and many of the problems of the EP series no longer concern it. - Unfortunately, the timing chain resource is still small, it rarely even reaches 100,000 km. - The motor, like its predecessor, quickly cokes and requires regular cleaning from carbon deposits. - Often the electromagnetic clutch in the drive of a mechanical water pump fails. - The new high-pressure fuel pump is more reliable than the old one, but it is also very demanding on fuel quality.
Do you have a video about the e46 3 series 318i N42 b20a i believe? I'd love to know if there are any other problems which i don't know about it already, I'm a learning mechanic and i think i have the best Engine to learn from with all the problems it has! 🤣 After all, this is the engine that gave bmw its bad name! But I've done a lot of work on this one, still running strong 🙏🏼
I have a N13B16A engine in my F30 316i, due to an elongated timing chain I had to replace it at 86k km, aswell as the oil pump chain and the oil pump, aswell as spark plugs and coils. Currently I’m facing an issue with engine temperature, since it’s close to 110-115 every time the engine is warm.. oil consumption is there but at “normal” intervals. Any idea what could be causing the oil temp?
Its the orange rubber membrane on your turbo diverter valve. The tear on the membrane is easy to confirm/replace . Just take it off from the front of the turbo and inspect it.
Worst engine I've ever had. - Turbocharger was broke and had to be changed ~2700€ - Ignition coils had water damage - Cylinder head gasket was broken, car didn't give a warning message and you can't monitor the temperatures via the instrument cluster, so the cylinder head was warped and the new turbocharger was also broken. Damage approx. 10.000€
Where exactly on the car is that fuil pup relay located? The reason I am asking is my car had a code about oil pressure and injector after my valvetronic moto went out and I change it, the company told me that the moto I bought was not good so they got a nex one but same shit, then they say I need a ecu they change it and same shit, then they told me I need the little black box at the front of the car that controle poew to the ecu and valvetronic moto and injector so they change that and I am still getting that code for injector and oil pressure when you scann the car it say something about eletric like brake or something about the injector eletric line is bad and that happen after the valvetronic moto went out.
To anyone even thinking of buying a BMW F20/F21 114i, 116i or 118i the list in this video is 100% true and here's mine: -Valve cover gasket -PCV Membrain that was changed with an aftermarket one, but didn't help or made it worse so a new valve cover is needed -Turbo intake hose as mentioned in the video -The connection between the plastic pipe and turbo intake so the whole intake hose had to be replaced -The metal heat shield around the catalytic converter vibrated so badly that it screw holding it on vibrated through it. The whole 3 piece shield had to be replaced at great expense -The accessory belt shreded itself and broke electric power steering connector so not replacing your belt affects all cars manual or automatic. The power steering rack is about 3k€ so change your belts! -Electric coolant pump failed -Oil consumption that started at 60km -Valve stem seals -Coolant temperature sensor -Another coolant leak behind the engine near the transmission that wasnt mentioned in the video -The metal coolant pipe that is connected to the side of the engine -The coolant tank cracked exactly like in the picture in the video Hopefully this list has conviced you to steer clear of this car. Sadly this PSA alliance engine is the worse thing BMW could have chosen for the F20/30 cars.
BMW 3 series (F30) - 2011-2019, Buying guide with Common Issues th-cam.com/video/SV15lqX30ek/w-d-xo.html
1st gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html
2nd gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/272PBPSS2no/w-d-xo.html
Range Rover L322 TDV8 Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/bXPNqXs8isg/w-d-xo.html
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BMW 3 series F30 Issues of ALL Petrol Engines th-cam.com/video/tV3q59Wkdck/w-d-xo.html
VW Golf MK7 ALL Petrol Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/4f1aVIA801g/w-d-xo.html
VW Golf MK7 GTI & R Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/xiaRO3CEkjs/w-d-xo.html
VW Golf MK6 ALL Petrol Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/SWyKL-IK9Ww/w-d-xo.html
VW Golf MK7 Diesel Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/ce2WTs_uBos/w-d-xo.html
VW Golf MK6 Diesel Engine Issues th-cam.com/video/4isZJFleo9g/w-d-xo.html
I bought my BMW in 2015 brand new with this N13, minor leaks after 4 years/80k km, it started acting out after 100,000km, broke down two times this year and it had over 70% of problems you mentioned. Very accurate research you have done here. Thanks for a few reminders for preventative maintenance!
Ok, let's talk about N13's, first off 1:22, there is also a vacuum line on the back, so remove that one too. Coils will fail, spark plugs are good for 60k if not mapped. Turbo to PCV will crack like never. Diverter valves on these are very very good, miles ahead of old N14, forget about it! Heatshield will rattle because the main part is held on by one bolt, impossible to get to it so just ignore, there is an easy fix for wastegate. Also, no, ATF leak will make gearbox not work so you will notice it in few km, ask me how I know... Additional "coolant pump" is "turbo coolant pump" and you will 1000% brake it if you are pulling the engine, so order it before you do it. Also also also, these have much bigger problem with oil pump chain, if you have a rattle, it might be that and it will cause oil consumption. Oil cooler is fitted to 118, 120, 320, so most of these don't have it ( they should though... ). You will have VANOS problems and sometimes just cleaning the actuators will help, but both will fail, you can count on that. Injectors and HPFP are not really a big problem on these ( were on N14 ), but carbon build up is, so keep that in mind. How do I know all this, I buy broken F20/F21 BMW's to fix and flip, so yeah, had many many broken ones. Keep the spark plugs and coils fresh because when they fail you will get damage to cylinder 2 or 3 and then it's "Game over man, game over!!"
Also also also, if you want to see 500 hp N13 build, stick around, we'll have that shit done if it's the last thing I do 😁
The man, the myth, the legend himself!
My respect and thanks
Cómo se soluciona el problema de cilindro, tengo problemas en el n1
My cylinder 1 no compression for second year in a row :(
@@FBPstudios I can't find a machine shop to put Darton sleeves in mine, and there is a hole in cylinder wall on #2, no one want's to even touch these engines 😅
My 2014 BMW 118i with this engine had a lot of these issues, and some. It all started at around 140k km:
Blown headgasket
Carbon build-up on injectors
Failed ignition coil
Both crank seals
Thermostat fail
One of the welch plugs mentioned at 10:26 completely came out
Most of the coolant leaks described in this video, not all of them - yet...
Broken dipstick.
And right now, I'm having the oil pressure solenoid replaced after I had gotten a red "oil pressure too low" warning, and the car would not finish an automatic oil level measurement and would stop at around 15%.
The battery is also starting to fail as the automatic start stop wouldn't work anymore.
The car has done 180k km now and I've had enough now. Getting rid of it this coming week.
Well done on this video, you've clearly done a lot of research. Thanks for that.
I also have the automatic oil measurement issue, stopping at 15%. Did you managed to get rid of it ?
@@hugomztl2253I had to replace the oil pump solenoid valve. That fixed the problem.
Apologies for the late response.
Ditto. Trusting my 135k km 116i F20 less and less.
@@paulramon5965 we at 137k km :(
That's a record for this engine. The longest I saw was 160K. Mine is 113 and I've faced thermostat, vanos and sparking plugs failures. Oil consumption is high.
Wow ,this is the most detailed narration I've ever listened to,All the issues you raised here are exactly pointed @ me not a miss! As much as am a lay man I clearly understood, Great teacher Thank you so much.
As a new owner of a 2008 Mini Cooper R55 with 210,000 kilometres. I wish I'd seen this video before I bought it. I still would have but I would have been wiser. Nice channel.Thank you.
Mine is close to 180k kms have broken down once due to failed ignition coil, change oil once a year at 15k kms, have changed some parts preventively. Very happy with it. Will continue to change preventively - video helps thanks looking forward to 400k kms.
Looking at the different forums if u drive aggressively u need to maintain aggressively too😂
Better change the oil at half that.
You should be changing that oil every 3 to 5 thousand miles, especially if yours is turbocharged, and in that case closer to 3 than 5.
Why not 1k? What the logic ?
@@mikeukabam1075 Your oil will last longer than 1,000 miles. But the longer oil churns through an engine, the more it breaks down, and it's viscosity changes. The 5-30 oil you're putting in your car will essentially become 5-20 eventually, or worse if you wait long enough. That's too thin for a car requiring at least 5-30, so the internals relying on proper lubrication will experience more friction, prematurely wearing out your engine. To be on the safe side, no matter what car you own, change your oil every 3k to 5k miles, period. Waiting 10 to 15k miles to change oil can lead to serious sludge buildup down the stretch as well. That will in part depend on the grade of oil filter you're using, amongst other things, but if you're using one of the tiny little paper filters, I wouldn't trust that oil passed 5k, and if you ask me 5k is still pushing it.
Furthermore, cars that use its oil to cool the turbocharger have a proclivity to break down the oils viscosity even faster, since turbochargers get so hot when used. Heat breaks oil down (as well as blow by gasses), and based on my own general research and extensively working on my own Mini Cooper, I would never let any car I own get over 5k between oil changes, especially a Mini Cooper, or 4k if that Mini is turbocharged. If I remember correctly, Mini generally recommends every 10k for all their cars, but that's absolute BS for any mini.
After seeing all these videos, I think I will buy a bicycle 😂
I still bought it last week.
@@ucup71how is it going mate
May be buy m54 old stuff more reliable?
Good to know weak points, thanks. My wife have F30 N13B16 about 93k km. Still going to official bmw service for maintenance.
This video is so good! Can you make a video about the B38 engine? That would be interesting for those who want a 1 series but are afraid of the N13 engine.
YESSS ! You are the best ! thanks to this video I don't have to look everywhere I already know where are the weaknesses . I can even order parts before taking a look to the engine.
Most comprehensive video i have seen on these issues, and I've seen many! As a proud life long owner of a 2007 Mini n14 its great to know what to keep an eye on. Then of course it hasits own specific transvere issues like the dreaded coolant cross over pipe and the very tight engine bay. Thanks again
I have this engine in my car and i can tell you sadly that you have talked about every single issue i had with the engine and its now 220000 kilometers old and i started to feel dizziness that i have passed through almost every failure you’ve mentioned and thought of the rest of the failures and felt depressed 😂 i even sent it to my friend to check it out so we could talk about it and check the engine again for the rest of the failures regarding the timing chain and cylinder wear-out 🤣🤣
Thanks. Great video (in spite of the many movie intermissions).
It's a pity I'm seeing this video just now since I'm experiencing many of these issues, including the oil consumption/ leaks and coolant leaks.
F20 116i 135k kms.
Mine is 2014 with 114K and this is very very accurate. Most serious was the thermostat, but I had/have timing chain, vanos, sparking plugs and vanos.
I think this engine is much better than described. It consumes less fuel and is very efficient. You can get this power from bigger cc in other brands. I used it more than 100000 kilometers.. the parts need to be replaced with original equipment when the time comes.. ( espicially turbo orings, spark plug, v belt, pulley, block plug ..) I used castrol 5 30 m oil. Antifreeze must be Castrol radicool series. Also, an engine with known problems is better than surprises.. Although the B48 engine has the same power, it has much more fuel consumption.
My wife has a 116i -14. The turbo seized in after 55k km. The car is living a quite hard life with most of the trips short as 2 km with a deep valley in between.
I had an R56 Mini with the N18 engine and boy oh boy did I experience some of those problems. I had the car for 6 (SIX!) months and sold it because I couldn't bear the constant stress of every ride and road trip. This bloody German-french Frankenstein's monster threw a code at me at almost EVERY trip longer than 100 km. In my short ownership, I had to replace the oil dip*hit (of course the tip broke off), a leaking water pump, both VANOS solenoids, complete front struts, the rocker cover gasket was leaky, and despite servicing it with high quality fluids and parts it still idled poorly giving all sorts of weird clunking noises. Before you ask, I had the timing chain checked by a mechanic and it was all fine. Don't get me wrong, those Minis are a blast to ride, but f*ck those blowy-uppy engines, a timing bomb ready to explode your wallet into another stratosphere. Never ever again.
Amazing video! Thank you. I feel like after 7 years with car equipped with N13 maybe its time to get rid of it :D I have noticed increased oil consumption (~ 0.2 L/1000km) and some hesitation when engine is cold. And sometimes car just stalls once after startup.
Oil consumption of 1L per 10,000km is acceptable for this engine.
@@stensibanda4280 Oil consumption is measured at 1.000 km, not 10.000 km. 0.2 L/1.000 km is nothing. Especially for this engine.
Thank you so much for all the info!
I had a 118i with this engine, it had almost all of these issues under 130 000KM. It had its coolant hoses and various connectors replaced under warranty twice and it still developed more cooling issues. Poor engine design even though it had decent performance. When it started going wrong it was one problem after the other.
I have driven this N13 engine even more than 250000km without experiencing all this problems!!!!
Hi what engine oil did you use did you fill up with 98 fuel did you use fuel additives
Any preventative measures?
@lindelanimicahtshienda4195 oil change at 8k , plugs and coils at maximum 40k , premium petrol, 100 max motion omv, change all water pup rulments and never buy dayco parts! Buy Inna for the rulments and vaico for the other parts, and for coils and plugs buy only bmw original! For the oil , use liqui moly 5w40 as this motor comsnum oil and works on very high temperature, 5w40 liqui moly is the best.
For all Gasket, PCV, chain stretch, turbo wears, simply use Pao/Ester engine oil and change it out at 10k KM, Fuchs Titan Pros S or Ravenol VST, VMP, all you above issues will be gone , due to the PAO’s oil to resist the turbo’s wearing/thinning out the EO. It did wonders for my N20 and S68, so Good luck guy!
So basically a fully synthetic oil. No shit. Nobody uses mineral and semi synthetic oils anymore...
@@DashCamSerbia Did my mention “Fully Synthetic”? don’t be Gullible, do your research , you ignorant son of a B*****.
@@Trump1776 LMAO... Your fancy terms like PAO/Ester just mean fully synthetic oil. All quality fully synthetic oils are based on that...
What do u expect from trump😂
Can you make a video about the Mercedes-Benz OM642 3.0 diesel V6? Thanks in advance
Amazing, thank you for this compilation
Good content 👌
Amazing video, mine has started to idle very badly plus a whistling style noise when it warms up and I touch the accelerator pedal. Any ideas, also the car drinks a lot of oil. Could this be a PCV at fault or something else like VANOS issues
This video is gold, thank you
Thanks for the effort that was helpful. What are some of the most reliable diesel or petrol engines you'd recommend ?
VW/Audi 1.9 tdi
@@eponymous7910 Maybe 10 years ago. Now every single one has been abused, chipped, neglected maintenance etc. There are many good diesel engines, 1.6(and 2.0)HDI, 1.9JTD, Toyota D4D etc. Depends what he wants really.
Thank you for the recommendations, Agreed I can hardly find a sub 200k golf/a3 with the older 1.9 tdi and when I do they're not well maintained
Which car? There is also a website called mymotorlist, where you can see the most common issues for the speciffic engine. Although, very basic info.
@@invicible192 Hey if you want I could recommend you some good cars(imo), but you need to give me some criteria, like price range, fuel consumption, size etc. I can't really recommend you much without that but I'd be glad to help if you're deciding what to buy.
I already have the water pulley issue at 50k miles. This engine is nothing but head aches. You didn't tell them about the actuator flaps in the ac tho. Gotta rip the whole dashboard out to fix it 😢
Thanks god I got rid of my 116i after 2 years and 40.000km. I sold it with 140.000 km
I had the fuel pump relay issue on 2013 F21. Garage I took it to replaced the fuel rail in engine bay but the same issue reoccured the same week
Replaced the fuel pump relay myself behind the rear bench which fixed it for cheap
Please review used Skoda Superb Mk1 and Mk2, what are common faults etc.
Hey Nice Videos, Can you make a issues list for the 2.0L TDI form VW (VW Group)? or is this not Relevant for you?
wish you a lovely day :)
I have 116i 2012 , the motor has sveral noises , specially cold start in summer, when it's hot outside, nobody knows the real caused, need to turn it off then on again so the noise disappear, in winter cold start is ok. Anyways, in i think i had bad luck choosing this motor ,and bmw in general, too problematic, too expensive. I think i am moving to Mazda Mx5 1.5 2015 , please make video. And advice if its a good engine. Thank you so much
As long as you steer clear of their diesels Mazda's are excellent cars
WHERE IS THE FUEL FILTER ON THIS ENGINE?
There is changeable?
Anyone know if the current 1.6T in the Peugeot 508 is any more reliable than these?
Well, of course. It is the EP6FDT engine. From mymotorlist:
- The power unit has been seriously updated and many of the problems of the EP series no longer concern it.
- Unfortunately, the timing chain resource is still small, it rarely even reaches 100,000 km.
- The motor, like its predecessor, quickly cokes and requires regular cleaning from carbon deposits.
- Often the electromagnetic clutch in the drive of a mechanical water pump fails.
- The new high-pressure fuel pump is more reliable than the old one, but it is also very demanding on fuel quality.
Its better to change oil every 4.000 - 5.000 to this engines for optimum performance and longer engine life.
What is the best oil for the N13 engine, the manual recommends LL04,LL01 : 0W30, 0W40, 5w30, 5W40. Should I use API SP, C3 oils?
5w40 C3 vidange tout les 8000 kms
@@Amar-ps2xv Thank you for the information which company is the best 5w40 C3 oil? ( Millers 5w40 C3 EE, Liqui Moly?
Do you have a video about the e46 3 series 318i N42 b20a i believe? I'd love to know if there are any other problems which i don't know about it already, I'm a learning mechanic and i think i have the best Engine to learn from with all the problems it has! 🤣 After all, this is the engine that gave bmw its bad name! But I've done a lot of work on this one, still running strong 🙏🏼
I have a N13B16A engine in my F30 316i, due to an elongated timing chain I had to replace it at 86k km, aswell as the oil pump chain and the oil pump, aswell as spark plugs and coils.
Currently I’m facing an issue with engine temperature, since it’s close to 110-115 every time the engine is warm.. oil consumption is there but at “normal” intervals. Any idea what could be causing the oil temp?
Oil temp is always high on these model if i drive normal it is at 108 if i drave fast oil temp can go up to 130+- (i have a 116i stage 2)
1800km/1L oil consuption opinion?
Хвала!
Thank you my friend! If I would ever do a VIP group with monthly payments, you would be there automatically without having to pay anything.
@@differentcarreview-dcr 🙂
wonderfull video
I have failure code 120308 on my 118i N13 (2014). This failure comes when im in high RPM (3500+). Anyboy have a idea or the same Code?
Its the orange rubber membrane on your turbo diverter valve. The tear on the membrane is easy to confirm/replace . Just take it off from the front of the turbo and inspect it.
@@wezile2329 i checked it, it was the Broken intake Hose of the turbo, not the membran of the sensor.
Please plug the turbo wastage small line to top engine cover. It you can see back side of engine top plastic cover. Fault will disapear.
There are many n13 with software increase power and they have not any iisues with pistons.
Have done stage 2 for 20k km still no problems (car has almost 240k kilometers
@@gzimkelmendi5802what’s the secret? Which preventative measures should I take
Thank you for your had work I will stay away from this cars.
Had this engine in a 308 GT of 2009, engine completely broke down after 50.000km and 3 years, absolute crap
Worst engine I've ever had.
- Turbocharger was broke and had to be changed ~2700€
- Ignition coils had water damage
- Cylinder head gasket was broken, car didn't give a warning message and you can't monitor the temperatures via the instrument cluster, so the cylinder head was warped and the new turbocharger was also broken. Damage approx. 10.000€
Where exactly on the car is that fuil pup relay located? The reason I am asking is my car had a code about oil pressure and injector after my valvetronic moto went out and I change it, the company told me that the moto I bought was not good so they got a nex one but same shit, then they say I need a ecu they change it and same shit, then they told me I need the little black box at the front of the car that controle poew to the ecu and valvetronic moto and injector so they change that and I am still getting that code for injector and oil pressure when you scann the car it say something about eletric like brake or something about the injector eletric line is bad and that happen after the valvetronic moto went out.
Story of my life... but i am at 200K KM... not to bad...
Same issues as Audis/VWs 2.0 FSI Turbos from mid 2000s🤣🤣
All most all this issue happened with my bmw heheh. Ery bad engine
The main issue is that it was ever built.
To anyone even thinking of buying a BMW F20/F21 114i, 116i or 118i the list in this video is 100% true and here's mine:
-Valve cover gasket
-PCV Membrain that was changed with an aftermarket one, but didn't help or made it worse so a new valve cover is needed
-Turbo intake hose as mentioned in the video
-The connection between the plastic pipe and turbo intake so the whole intake hose had to be replaced
-The metal heat shield around the catalytic converter vibrated so badly that it screw holding it on vibrated through it. The whole 3 piece shield had to be replaced at great expense
-The accessory belt shreded itself and broke electric power steering connector so not replacing your belt affects all cars manual or automatic. The power steering rack is about 3k€ so change your belts!
-Electric coolant pump failed
-Oil consumption that started at 60km
-Valve stem seals
-Coolant temperature sensor
-Another coolant leak behind the engine near the transmission that wasnt mentioned in the video
-The metal coolant pipe that is connected to the side of the engine
-The coolant tank cracked exactly like in the picture in the video
Hopefully this list has conviced you to steer clear of this car. Sadly this PSA alliance engine is the worse thing BMW could have chosen for the F20/30 cars.
conclusion: stay away from this engine
😂😂😂
Watching this as I’m waiting for my new timing chain to arrive 🤣
@@Alexis.daminet 🤣🤣
Worst 1.6 engine ever made.
😂😂 not owning n13. Owning m54 and n52. Reliable by far
Absolutely terrible engines Peugeot ones were better
It is a Peugeot engine
Worked on them they are a pos.
Nice guide mate. Also is there any differences between using blue coolant or red one to stop water leaks?