Hello, thank you for this video. Very helpfull! I successfully did it on my 114i N13B16. I removed completely the high pressure petrol pump (vs. disconnecting the arrival tube) It did ease a lot the access to the sensor then I succeed to change the sensor rapidely. Thanks again!
@@CosminRotaru Yeah it's super easy just undo the two mounting bolts for the pump and disconnect the upper line attachment then you can take the whole pump out with the bottom line still connected.
I had to replace the sensor again this winter (it was reading wrong temp and engine was not running ok). This time I managed to disconnect the fuel line with a trick that you can find on youtube. Toolless :) Easy :)
I have done this job but not the way that you did it. I replaced the "BLOCKER" which comes from BMW with a new Sensor already installed within it. I did not strip anything in the Engine Bay at all..... I did it in 1.5 hours from start to finish. I removed the Gearbox and the Prop Shaft to gain access, that is the way that they do it at BMW Dealerships. It's much quick and easier.
Great video. In my case, the housing gasket was the culprit. But because I only want to do this job once, I bought the complete "housing, sensor and hose" kit. It was a much easier job too.
Hi there, with the solid metal pipe that goes into the housing, do you just undo the housing and slide it off the metal pipe or foes something else have to come off? Also did you manage to do from the top or did you remove gearbox? Thanks
@@james-3778 this can be done from the top. You can unbolt the high pressure fuel pump for better access. That's the steel housing above the temp sensor housing that he says you need special tool for.
Thx, I just managed to remove my sensor on a 320i EDE with this instructions. Wobbled the sensor a bit and it came out quite easily. I saw in the end you that you state to 3 times rev to 3000rpm, but the instructions state to do this 10 times each?
It has the same engine, and I also had to struggle indeed, I did not remove the fuel line. The hardest part for me was removing de last part (sound insulation panel). Total removal of the sensor took about 1.5hrs. The coolant bleeding instructions I found: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-320i-eff-dyn-lim/repair-manuals/17-cooling/17-00-cooling-check/GgC2BOwO. Should also apply to the 316i I think. EDIT: ahh I now see that the 3 times apply when using a vacuum filling unit, I do not have one so I'm using the instructions for without the unit.
@@Lievens79 looking at the 316 in TIS I now find the same info, indeed. 🤔 So... I must have misunderstood. It was ok nevertheless. Also, the extra 100ml they ask for disappeared after taking a trip to the operating engine temperature. So they take some extra bleeding into account. If you skipped that part make sure to check the coolant level again the next day, after a trip.
Salutare! Am vazut ca ai avut si tu un e39 520i m54 motor daca nu ma insel. Te am vazut de asemenea comentand la videoclipul unui om care explica problema consumului de ulei pe aceste motoare. Ai niste sfaturi? Ai avut vreodata problema consumului excesiv de ulei?
salut! Da, am avut de cand am luat masina si am rezolvat partial asa: schimbat separatorul de ulei cu furtunele adiacente (sunt niste verificari de facut ca sa vezi daca e ok - daca sunt probleme genereaza un consum mare de ulei. ba poate chiar sa suga ulei direct din baie...), schimbat simeringurile de la supape. schimbat garnitura de la capac motor. Dincolo de asta a ramas un consum acceptabil de ulei dat de vechimea motorului (pe la segmenti, banuiesc) si cu care nu mi-am batut capul. A ramas constant de-a lungul a 11 ani de utilizat masina. O cumparasem cand avea deja vreo 12 ani. Nici nu am menajat-o. Asa cum scria si in carte: consumul de ulei, la fel ca si cel de combustibil, depinde de stilul de condus :) Am spus nu am menajat-o! Aia nu inseamna ca nu am intretinut-o! Am avut mare grija de ea si orice problema am remediat-o repede.
Sir, what are the characteristics of the engine coolant temperature being broken, I am using a BMW F30 320i, my car yesterday appeared with an engine overhead message, I have replaced the water pump and thermostart, now when the engine temperature is not yet 100 degrees the fan spins loudly and doesn't stop getting louder and louder, is the ECT broken too?
Hi! Are you loosing coolant maybe? Even if you have a small leak on a hose the system will loose coolant and pressure when temperature increases and then, when you stop the car and the engine cools down, the pressure will drop bellow atmospheric pressure and it will suck air through that small hole in the hose. Air in the coolant system will interfere with the coolant pump and the coolant will not circulate properly. This happened to me on my old E39. I don't know what the dashboard on F30 320i shows. Is it coolant temperature? On my F30 316i it actually shows oil temperature. Coolant temperature rises faster than oil temperature. So it is possible that what you see on the dashboard is oil temperature while the coolant temperature is actually higher. Maybe you can use some diagnostics tool to look at the data? Or maybe you can google how to show coolant temperature on OBC for your car. Please note I am not a mechanic - all the car videos on my channel are just fixing my own cars (mostly with help from TIS).
Întâmpin si eu problema cu antigelul, scade lent si constant, am schimbat o ring la vas expansiune, bușon, șurub ventiație, 2 o ring uri La conductele care intra in turbina si unul care intra in bloc, am mai văzut si la senzor umezeala, îl schimb si pe asta, sper sa fie ultima problema
@@andreistroie8632 super! Tot pe jos am ajuns la el dar m-am chinuit mult ca nu vroia sa iasa... Sincer am pierdut cateva ore cu rahatul ala si m-am julit tot pe maini.
salut! Nu stiu... Si mai ales depinde de motor. Dar iti recomand realoem - folsesti VIN-ul masinii si apoi gasesti toate piesele cu diagrame destul de sugestive incat sa iti dai seama unde e senzorul pe care il cauti. Probabil intr-o sectiune gen "fuel system".
hi there, new question again. after i done this i noticemy petrol consumption is getting very high. i lost 100km distance after done this. i wondering the fuel pump there i not sure is it need to be notice anything when out and install? i just took out and install as normal. i forget to check is it there has a seal there or the pump inside there has a piston does need to resitting or something? i had done the reset adaption as well . but doesn't help me . i notice when i idling. my car fuel consumption is gaining 0.1every 2 min. prev normal busy town driving will be 9.9L/ 100km now had gain until 13L/100km
That's a huge increase in consumption (given the same driving conditions). And you noticed this right after this fix? Maybe just a coincidence? See if there's any cable plug that you might have left out. Any sensor related problem might interfere with engine management... Even the temperature sensor. (then there's a maf, the oxygen sensors and what not). Do you have acces to a diagnose tool?
@@CosminRotaru yesterday i did reinstall again. just double check the cam lifter also. and replug everything in. now the Fuel consumption seems to recover near 90% like last time . but together with ista reset adaptation ...
now i facing dunno how to pull it out . .is it unable use hand finger power to take It out? because i also try the cable tight thing and out still cannot. its does movement but it seems stuck
@@CosminRotaru i using sharp head plyers grab well on my lefthand. and pushing to the left using my right hands to it lol.. able to get it out but hell is hard
Salut ! Am seria 1 cu acest motor. Tot îmi apare eroarea 109308 “coolant temperature sensor, probability: for fast signal change” …Intermittent Sa fie oare de vina senzorul ? Precizez ca nu am pierderi de lichid de răcire și niciun alt simptom . Totul este ok , doar eroarea 109308 care nu-mi da pace. Mulțumesc !
Am schimbat senzorul așa cum ai descris tu operațiunea . Greu de scos pt ca nu ai acces. Am făcut un lat dintr-o sarma și l-am scos afara ca pe o măsea stricata… Mulțumesc pt ajutor !
@@CosminRotaru Nu ! Problema s-a rezolvat. Insa...am observat ca cineva mai incercase sa schimbe acel senzor(probabil), am gasit mufa de la el declipsata, cred ca senzorul in sine nu avea probleme , eroarea cred ca imi aprea de la contact imperfect. Dupa cat m-am chinuit nu am riscat sa clipsez doar mufa, oricum aveam senzorul nou (Hella 61 Ron). Dupa ce am schimbat senzorul, am facut aerisirea asa cum am vazut in tutorial. Problema s-a rezolvat , mii de multumiri !
salut! Am avut o problema urata. S-a dus o bobina de inductie si a luat calculatorul dupa ea (sau calculatorul s-a dus primul si a topit bobina...) si releul ISM (Integrated Suply Module). Ghinion. Nu am auzit sa fie ceva comun. In rest e ok O am de aproape 2 ani si nu am avut alte defecte. De tras... depinde de la ce schimbi. Inainte de asta am avut un E39 de 2l, 150CP. Asta are motor mai mic si mai slab (134CP), dar cuplul maxim foarte jos si liniar pe o plaja larga (220 sau 250 Nm- nu sunt sigur - de la 1,350 la 4,500 rpm), cutia bine impartita (6 trepte) si greutatea mai mica il fac mai sprinten decat vechiul E39 (0-100 in 8.9s fata de 10.2). Motorul turbo in 4 cilindri are un sunet trist, de diesel :) Nu se compara cu motorul de 2litri, 6 cilindri aspirat de pe E39. In schimb are multe alte dotari (si avans tehnic in general) cu care m-am obisnuit si mi-ar fi greu fara... :) Per ansamblu e o masinuta buna.
@@CosminRotarula mulți ani și mersi mult pentru răspuns. Vin de pe un opel astra j 1.6 aspirat, deci sigur trage mai bine decât ce am momentan, dar eram curios și de alte păreri. Are și acest motor"probleme " cu distribuția? Am văzut ca e tot pe lanț și de asta întreb. Sunt obișnuit cu bobinelende la opel,am schimbat o de 2 ori fiind una din bolile lor, dar la opel sunt destul de ieftine piesele. Ai idee dacă motorul e același cu cel de 170 cp?
@@mihneaconstantin595 La multi ani si tie! Nu am gasit cine stie ce info in legatura cu distributia (de-asta am si ales motorul asta). Am gasit mult mai multe raportari in legatura cu N20 (mai ales cel de 240CP). Initial am vrut N20b20 si m-am razgandit ca am gasit pe net multi care se plangeau de distributie. Nu ca la N47 (dieselul...) dar totusi. Pe de alta parte N13 nu este foarte comun. Probabil nu s-a vandut destul de mult. Il gasesti mai mult pe seria 1 si pe Mini (acolo ii zice N14/N18). Pe wikipedia (search dupa bmw F30) vad ca N13b16 este si pe 320 ED, de 168 de cai. Daca imi aduc aminte bine are radiator de racire pentru ulei, restul din soft.
Hi! Sorry, I cannot recommend a thermostat. I'm not a professional. I wrote the bmw tool code in the video: 0496242. You need to search for it. I did not have/use the tool.
@@ismetkorkmaz9795 ah, now I get it :) Sorry, no idea how to do that... I was using the online TIS and now that is no longer available I'm lost, as a DIYer :)
@@CosminRotaru I'm changing the thermostat housing because it's leaking coolant and the sensor keeps saying top up in the cool mornings! It's a common fault on these engines
hi! I was going to suggest newtis site but I see it was just taken down by bmw. That sucks... It looks like for this model the coolant level sensor is part of the expansion tank itself (same as the level sensor for the windshield washer reservoir...).
Nu e mai ușor pe jos. Procedura normala este sa scoți furtunul ăla de benzina sa ai loc sa bagi mana. Dar îți trebuie ceva scula specială și eu nu o am. Daca ar fi sa schimb din nou as căuta să cumpăr scula aia. Poate nu e o avere...
On this particular model the dashboard shows oil temperature. I think there's a trick to show the coolant temperature in an extended menu on the dashboard as well. I personally use INSTA+ if I need to fetch more data from the car. Maybe I missed the question?
@@CosminRotaru Yes it was the coolant temperature I was looking for and found it strange that only the oil temperature is shown on the instrument cluster.
@@vwukben Oil temperature raises a bit slower then coolant temp and is a better indicator for when you can drive sportier. Also, the temperature management on these cars is a bit more elaborate then the classical thermostat we had in the older cars. Temperature is now controlled depending on the drive mode (comfort/sport...) and you'd probably never see the expected centered needle when engine is warmed up anyway.
Hello, thank you for this video. Very helpfull! I successfully did it on my 114i N13B16. I removed completely the high pressure petrol pump (vs. disconnecting the arrival tube) It did ease a lot the access to the sensor then I succeed to change the sensor rapidely. Thanks again!
I never thought of removing the pump altogether... Is that easier?
@@CosminRotaru i felt is same, maybe he felt that annoying that block his access i guess
@@bizzy the BMW procedure does specify to remove the pipe for access. Removing the pump altogether makes sense, if easy enough.
@@CosminRotaru Yeah it's super easy just undo the two mounting bolts for the pump and disconnect the upper line attachment then you can take the whole pump out with the bottom line still connected.
I had to replace the sensor again this winter (it was reading wrong temp and engine was not running ok). This time I managed to disconnect the fuel line with a trick that you can find on youtube. Toolless :) Easy :)
I have done this job but not the way that you did it.
I replaced the "BLOCKER" which comes from BMW with a new Sensor already installed within it.
I did not strip anything in the Engine Bay at all.....
I did it in 1.5 hours from start to finish.
I removed the Gearbox and the Prop Shaft to gain access, that is the way that they do it at BMW Dealerships.
It's much quick and easier.
did you make a video?
I'll like to know more about how you diid it?
Great video.
In my case, the housing gasket was the culprit.
But because I only want to do this job once, I bought the complete "housing, sensor and hose" kit.
It was a much easier job too.
Hi there, with the solid metal pipe that goes into the housing, do you just undo the housing and slide it off the metal pipe or foes something else have to come off? Also did you manage to do from the top or did you remove gearbox? Thanks
@@james-3778 this can be done from the top. You can unbolt the high pressure fuel pump for better access. That's the steel housing above the temp sensor housing that he says you need special tool for.
Thx, I just managed to remove my sensor on a 320i EDE with this instructions. Wobbled the sensor a bit and it came out quite easily. I saw in the end you that you state to 3 times rev to 3000rpm, but the instructions state to do this 10 times each?
Could be. Is what I found in TIS for my car but you should definitely follow the instructions for your car!
So 320i EDE has the same n13 engine? Did you have the special tool for removing the fuel line, or you had to struggle around it like me...?
It has the same engine, and I also had to struggle indeed, I did not remove the fuel line. The hardest part for me was removing de last part (sound insulation panel). Total removal of the sensor took about 1.5hrs. The coolant bleeding instructions I found: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-320i-eff-dyn-lim/repair-manuals/17-cooling/17-00-cooling-check/GgC2BOwO. Should also apply to the 316i I think. EDIT: ahh I now see that the 3 times apply when using a vacuum filling unit, I do not have one so I'm using the instructions for without the unit.
@@Lievens79 looking at the 316 in TIS I now find the same info, indeed. 🤔 So... I must have misunderstood. It was ok nevertheless. Also, the extra 100ml they ask for disappeared after taking a trip to the operating engine temperature. So they take some extra bleeding into account. If you skipped that part make sure to check the coolant level again the next day, after a trip.
Salutare! Am vazut ca ai avut si tu un e39 520i m54 motor daca nu ma insel. Te am vazut de asemenea comentand la videoclipul unui om care explica problema consumului de ulei pe aceste motoare. Ai niste sfaturi? Ai avut vreodata problema consumului excesiv de ulei?
salut! Da, am avut de cand am luat masina si am rezolvat partial asa: schimbat separatorul de ulei cu furtunele adiacente (sunt niste verificari de facut ca sa vezi daca e ok - daca sunt probleme genereaza un consum mare de ulei. ba poate chiar sa suga ulei direct din baie...), schimbat simeringurile de la supape. schimbat garnitura de la capac motor. Dincolo de asta a ramas un consum acceptabil de ulei dat de vechimea motorului (pe la segmenti, banuiesc) si cu care nu mi-am batut capul. A ramas constant de-a lungul a 11 ani de utilizat masina. O cumparasem cand avea deja vreo 12 ani. Nici nu am menajat-o. Asa cum scria si in carte: consumul de ulei, la fel ca si cel de combustibil, depinde de stilul de condus :) Am spus nu am menajat-o! Aia nu inseamna ca nu am intretinut-o! Am avut mare grija de ea si orice problema am remediat-o repede.
Hi there, do you have a part number for the new coolant temp sensor as i am having trouble sourcing one. Cheers
Hi! It is 13621433077 on my car. Best is to search on realoem.com for your particular car.
Sir, what are the characteristics of the engine coolant temperature being broken, I am using a BMW F30 320i, my car yesterday appeared with an engine overhead message, I have replaced the water pump and thermostart, now when the engine temperature is not yet 100 degrees the fan spins loudly and doesn't stop getting louder and louder, is the ECT broken too?
Hi! Are you loosing coolant maybe? Even if you have a small leak on a hose the system will loose coolant and pressure when temperature increases and then, when you stop the car and the engine cools down, the pressure will drop bellow atmospheric pressure and it will suck air through that small hole in the hose. Air in the coolant system will interfere with the coolant pump and the coolant will not circulate properly. This happened to me on my old E39.
I don't know what the dashboard on F30 320i shows. Is it coolant temperature? On my F30 316i it actually shows oil temperature. Coolant temperature rises faster than oil temperature. So it is possible that what you see on the dashboard is oil temperature while the coolant temperature is actually higher. Maybe you can use some diagnostics tool to look at the data? Or maybe you can google how to show coolant temperature on OBC for your car.
Please note I am not a mechanic - all the car videos on my channel are just fixing my own cars (mostly with help from TIS).
@@CosminRotaru Thank you, sir, for the information, I hope good luck and health will be with you
Întâmpin si eu problema cu antigelul, scade lent si constant, am schimbat o ring la vas expansiune, bușon, șurub ventiație, 2 o ring uri La conductele care intra in turbina si unul care intra in bloc, am mai văzut si la senzor umezeala, îl schimb si pe asta, sper sa fie ultima problema
Succes! Garnitura aia cică e "boala la ele"... Am schimbat senzorul cu totul că e ieftin. Atât că e chinuiala multă...🤬
Nu l-aș ma schimba, as cumpara garnitură originală și as păstra si senzorul original
55 lei hella. Atât am dat pe senzor. La câtă muncă e nu merita sa schimbi doar garnitura.
Am inlocuit senzorul, l am facut pe jos,a fost destul de accesibil (cu elevator)
@@andreistroie8632 super! Tot pe jos am ajuns la el dar m-am chinuit mult ca nu vroia sa iasa... Sincer am pierdut cateva ore cu rahatul ala si m-am julit tot pe maini.
where is located the coolant temperature sensor? show me minute pls!
Hi! Around 3:28, marked in a yellow circle. Very hard to take a video there, at the back of the engine... 😐
Salut!Ai idee unde se afla senzorul de temperatura de combustibil la bmw f30?
salut! Nu stiu... Si mai ales depinde de motor. Dar iti recomand realoem - folsesti VIN-ul masinii si apoi gasesti toate piesele cu diagrame destul de sugestive incat sa iti dai seama unde e senzorul pe care il cauti. Probabil intr-o sectiune gen "fuel system".
hi there, new question again. after i done this i noticemy petrol consumption is getting very high. i lost 100km distance after done this.
i wondering the fuel pump there i not sure is it need to be notice anything when out and install? i just took out and install as normal. i forget to check is it there has a seal there or the pump inside there has a piston does need to resitting or something?
i had done the reset adaption as well . but doesn't help me .
i notice when i idling. my car fuel consumption is gaining 0.1every 2 min.
prev normal busy town driving will be 9.9L/ 100km
now had gain until 13L/100km
That's a huge increase in consumption (given the same driving conditions). And you noticed this right after this fix? Maybe just a coincidence? See if there's any cable plug that you might have left out. Any sensor related problem might interfere with engine management... Even the temperature sensor. (then there's a maf, the oxygen sensors and what not). Do you have acces to a diagnose tool?
@@CosminRotaru yesterday i did reinstall again. just double check the cam lifter also. and replug everything in.
now the Fuel consumption seems to recover near 90% like last time .
but together with ista reset adaptation ...
@@bizzy that's a real headache...
Did you get any error codes indicating you needed to change the sensor?
Hi! No. You just notice coolant loss and that sensor (its gasket) is something to check...
now i facing dunno how to pull it out . .is it unable use hand finger power to take It out? because i also try the cable tight thing and out still cannot. its does movement but it seems stuck
That was the most frustrating part for me as well. Really hard to pull the sensor out 😐
@@CosminRotaru i using sharp head plyers grab well on my lefthand. and pushing to the left using my right hands to it lol.. able to get it out but hell is hard
Salut ! Am seria 1 cu acest motor. Tot îmi apare eroarea 109308 “coolant temperature sensor, probability: for fast signal change” …Intermittent
Sa fie oare de vina senzorul ? Precizez ca nu am pierderi de lichid de răcire și niciun alt simptom . Totul este ok , doar eroarea 109308 care nu-mi da pace.
Mulțumesc !
Nu sunt specialist, dar suna ca și când ar fi i problema cu senzorul. Sau conexiunile.
@@CosminRotaru mulțumesc !
Am schimbat senzorul așa cum ai descris tu operațiunea . Greu de scos pt ca nu ai acces. Am făcut un lat dintr-o sarma și l-am scos afara ca pe o măsea stricata…
Mulțumesc pt ajutor !
@@uglybob1735 greu greu... Bine că ai reușit. Mai da eroare?
@@CosminRotaru Nu !
Problema s-a rezolvat. Insa...am observat ca cineva mai incercase sa schimbe acel senzor(probabil), am gasit mufa de la el declipsata, cred ca senzorul in sine nu avea probleme , eroarea cred ca imi aprea de la contact imperfect. Dupa cat m-am chinuit nu am riscat sa clipsez doar mufa, oricum aveam senzorul nou (Hella 61 Ron). Dupa ce am schimbat senzorul, am facut aerisirea asa cum am vazut in tutorial.
Problema s-a rezolvat , mii de multumiri !
Salut!
Ai avut ceva probleme cu ea?
Vreau sa îmi iau și eu un f30 316i și fac cercetări.
Cum ți se pare ca trage motorul?
Mersi frumos!
salut!
Am avut o problema urata. S-a dus o bobina de inductie si a luat calculatorul dupa ea (sau calculatorul s-a dus primul si a topit bobina...) si releul ISM (Integrated Suply Module). Ghinion. Nu am auzit sa fie ceva comun. In rest e ok O am de aproape 2 ani si nu am avut alte defecte. De tras... depinde de la ce schimbi. Inainte de asta am avut un E39 de 2l, 150CP. Asta are motor mai mic si mai slab (134CP), dar cuplul maxim foarte jos si liniar pe o plaja larga (220 sau 250 Nm- nu sunt sigur - de la 1,350 la 4,500 rpm), cutia bine impartita (6 trepte) si greutatea mai mica il fac mai sprinten decat vechiul E39 (0-100 in 8.9s fata de 10.2). Motorul turbo in 4 cilindri are un sunet trist, de diesel :) Nu se compara cu motorul de 2litri, 6 cilindri aspirat de pe E39. In schimb are multe alte dotari (si avans tehnic in general) cu care m-am obisnuit si mi-ar fi greu fara... :) Per ansamblu e o masinuta buna.
@@CosminRotarula mulți ani și mersi mult pentru răspuns.
Vin de pe un opel astra j 1.6 aspirat, deci sigur trage mai bine decât ce am momentan, dar eram curios și de alte păreri. Are și acest motor"probleme " cu distribuția? Am văzut ca e tot pe lanț și de asta întreb.
Sunt obișnuit cu bobinelende la opel,am schimbat o de 2 ori fiind una din bolile lor, dar la opel sunt destul de ieftine piesele.
Ai idee dacă motorul e același cu cel de 170 cp?
@@mihneaconstantin595 La multi ani si tie!
Nu am gasit cine stie ce info in legatura cu distributia (de-asta am si ales motorul asta). Am gasit mult mai multe raportari in legatura cu N20 (mai ales cel de 240CP). Initial am vrut N20b20 si m-am razgandit ca am gasit pe net multi care se plangeau de distributie. Nu ca la N47 (dieselul...) dar totusi. Pe de alta parte N13 nu este foarte comun. Probabil nu s-a vandut destul de mult. Il gasesti mai mult pe seria 1 si pe Mini (acolo ii zice N14/N18).
Pe wikipedia (search dupa bmw F30) vad ca N13b16 este si pe 320 ED, de 168 de cai. Daca imi aduc aminte bine are radiator de racire pentru ulei, restul din soft.
What does the special tool lool like?
I'm about to replace my thermostat housing on my n13
Do you have any recommendations?
Hi! Sorry, I cannot recommend a thermostat. I'm not a professional. I wrote the bmw tool code in the video: 0496242. You need to search for it. I did not have/use the tool.
@@CosminRotaru hi
I bought the original part 😁
I meant any recommendations on how to do it or what to do before or anything else that would help me 😊
@@ismetkorkmaz9795 ah, now I get it :) Sorry, no idea how to do that... I was using the online TIS and now that is no longer available I'm lost, as a DIYer :)
btw: why are you changing that? Did it crack or something? Is this something I need to keep an eye on?
@@CosminRotaru I'm changing the thermostat housing because it's leaking coolant and the sensor keeps saying top up in the cool mornings!
It's a common fault on these engines
Great video. It's fucking hard tho.
any idea how to replace the coolant level sensor for this model? thanks
hi! I was going to suggest newtis site but I see it was just taken down by bmw. That sucks...
It looks like for this model the coolant level sensor is part of the expansion tank itself (same as the level sensor for the windshield washer reservoir...).
@@CosminRotaru Thanks. Much appreciated.
Cu elevator oare pot sa l schimb pe jos, am acces?
Nu e mai ușor pe jos. Procedura normala este sa scoți furtunul ăla de benzina sa ai loc sa bagi mana. Dar îți trebuie ceva scula specială și eu nu o am. Daca ar fi sa schimb din nou as căuta să cumpăr scula aia. Poate nu e o avere...
How did you reach there man!
a nightmare...
by any chance you know the transmission code? is it 8hp45?
Sorry, i don't...
Where do you find the temperature reading within the car system?
On this particular model the dashboard shows oil temperature. I think there's a trick to show the coolant temperature in an extended menu on the dashboard as well. I personally use INSTA+ if I need to fetch more data from the car. Maybe I missed the question?
@@CosminRotaru Yes it was the coolant temperature I was looking for and found it strange that only the oil temperature is shown on the instrument cluster.
@@vwukben Oil temperature raises a bit slower then coolant temp and is a better indicator for when you can drive sportier. Also, the temperature management on these cars is a bit more elaborate then the classical thermostat we had in the older cars. Temperature is now controlled depending on the drive mode (comfort/sport...) and you'd probably never see the expected centered needle when engine is warmed up anyway.
Schimbi si distribuția la modelu asta ?
Nu am găsit nimic care să mă îndrepte in direcția aia la N13...
Zici ca nu ar avea probleme n13 cu distribuția? Foarte puține discuții am gasit pe net
@@andreistroie8632 nici eu... De-aia am ales motorul asta. Poate nu e un motor popular și de-aia nu găsim informații...
@@CosminRotaru mda...am cautat pe peste tot si e un motor foooarte rar
@@MegaGabriel233 mai mult pe seria 1 a fost pus din câte știu.