Great video! It answered all my questions except for one. I am going to install 5" tongue and groove beadboard along 2 walls. One end is against a refrigerator enclosure, then an inside corner, and the other end is next to the trim around the back door. ****I would like a full board next to the door which means that most likely there will be a partial board at the corner. When I begin the next wall to go around the corner do I install another partial board so the 2 partial boards equal 5" ? and then continue to the refrigerator end?**** I know I could solve the corner if I just begin in the corner but then I will have a partial board next to the door. Thank you for your advice. I
the extras is where the money is at in the painting business... A 1 stop shop is always convenient for the client and more profitable for the Contractor.
It amazes me how many people on the internet are just looking to critic someone else work but seldom take the time to upload their own How-to-Video. The whole exercise I took from this video is not to show you how to professionally install wainscoting but more about what a painter may encounter from a home owner whom asked if you can install wainscoting while you are painting their homes; a potential extra for a painter. The correct way to install this material falls upon you, the painter, to learn how a professional finish carpenter would install this material. The video is not meant to be taken literally. Everyone that have seen Paint Life videos by now should know that these guys definitely know how to produce a professional looking and durable paint job. Trust them on that and don't judge on what painters encounter on a day to day basis. From a Jack of all Trade like me who is been in the business for more than 30 years I can tell you that some customers don't really care if you use a scientific approach to install wainscoting. Just by the look of the wainscoting itself I can tell the home owner didn't care about a high end install and who knows.... Maybe the guys went and bought the material themselves and installed it for free as a perk for having been awarded the paint job; makes customer happy, and it is good business and should get recognition for it instead of being criticized on something you do not know the specifics of the job. These guys work really hard to produce massive amount of videos pros can actually learn from and before you critic, try uploading a fraction of what these guys produce in a month.... I have yet to see Paint Life upload criticisms about other people's how to videos. All great TH-cam Channels who upload quality How-To-Videos seldom or ever critic other's people's work and so do pros who been in the business all their lives because we all had to learn how to do something at some point in time and we do not need to be a pro to share on ideas I think; just take it for what it is guys, thank them for the upload and just say you would have probably installed it differently if it bugs you that much and let Paint Life respond to you and ask you how you would install it if they are curious or have the time to take it further ... and don't forget: These guys aren't NBC or ABC or FOX network, it's a mom and pop shop video production, I dare anyone to try to do the equivalent. Anyway, sorry for the rant. I don't mean to be disrespectful to anyone with opinions.
I am new to your channel. Thanks for showing the return on the ends of the chair rail. I do still have some questions on how to do this, particularly regarding the corners and ends of the wall. But this is kind of old so I will do a bit more searching to see what I can find. Thanks for posting this. It does get me started.
Very good video. Do the 18 gage pins really hold the bead board securely over time given they are going into drywall only. Do you use any glue, and what kind, ever to hold the bead board to the painted wall surface?
If you were to put a shelf on the top of the beadboard would you make the bottom of the beadboard the uneven part since it will be covered by the baseboard?
So when u install this board the full length of the wall but only one wall do u butt it to the molding or remove it and if u do remove it what would u do about the molding on the other wall sitting back farther
OMG, I have that same level. Had a laser in it. I think I got it at Radio Shack of all places! Interesting that you installed the chair rail FIRST before the bead board. I would have done it the other way around. Is that the way you should do it.?
Not sure if I misunderstood, but the chair rail is being nailed into bare drywall with no backing, and only hitting studs at the 16" intervals?? Not sure how that will hold up.
The "end of the end" is called a return. Level is horizontal. Plumb is vertical. At 11:17 I see gaps at the top of the run under the chair rail. At 11:45 they are gone. Caulking? And why leave the art on the wall?
Yall made it look easy! Is He your son in law? oh yeah I passed the state exam & now a Paint & Decor Licensed Contractor in CA thanks for your videos & knowledge
So my question is why not cut all the boards to length, pin them up and then snap a chalk line and cut them all at the same time before installing the top board?
You can't just pull out an outlet out of the electrical box to lengthen it. You need to add box extensions or refit the electrical box so it's flush with the paneling.
I appreciate your videos thanks to WranglerStar. I am working on a 1920s Sears kit house with lathe & plaster interior walls. Your tips helped with filling the large cracks (up to 1/2"). But I think I want to do a crown moulding. I think it is 1/2" to 3/4" thick; Can you confirm that as I want to use the nailer. I assume I want a larger moulding as the walls are 8'. I found a 4" x 8' simulated wainscot for under the existing waist board as this can be fastened only at the top behind a claw-foot tub - any advise?
Tell me that you weren't the guy that did the previous sheetrock repair under the window. Also, the comments are showing they were done two weeks ago. Hmmm.
Decent video but I suggest properly mitering the chair corner and ripping a rabbit on the back of the chair rail to overlap the bead board which will eliminate any visible gap.....which is visible.
excellent tutorial. well done. one question: WHY THE HELL DID YOU PAINT OVER WOOD?! PAINT WALLS, not wood. imho Especially if you have gorgeous material you are working with. if thats what the client wanted, ok. but i believe it's your job to teach.
Great video! It answered all my questions except for one.
I am going to install 5" tongue and groove beadboard along 2 walls. One end is against a refrigerator enclosure, then an inside corner, and the other end is next to the trim around the back door.
****I would like a full board next to the door which means that most likely there will be a partial board at the corner. When I begin the next wall to go
around the corner do I install another partial board so the 2 partial boards equal 5" ? and then continue to the refrigerator end?****
I know I could solve the corner if I just begin in the corner but then I will have a partial board next to the door.
Thank you for your advice.
I
the extras is where the money is at in the painting business... A 1 stop shop is always convenient for the client and more profitable for the Contractor.
Very nice. Thanks for showing us how it's done.
Wow that contour gauge is awesome! Very nice Job. God Bless!
It amazes me how many people on the internet are just looking to critic someone else work but seldom take the time to upload their own How-to-Video. The whole exercise I took from this video is not to show you how to professionally install wainscoting but more about what a painter may encounter from a home owner whom asked if you can install wainscoting while you are painting their homes; a potential extra for a painter. The correct way to install this material falls upon you, the painter, to learn how a professional finish carpenter would install this material. The video is not meant to be taken literally. Everyone that have seen Paint Life videos by now should know that these guys definitely know how to produce a professional looking and durable paint job. Trust them on that and don't judge on what painters encounter on a day to day basis. From a Jack of all Trade like me who is been in the business for more than 30 years I can tell you that some customers don't really care if you use a scientific approach to install wainscoting. Just by the look of the wainscoting itself I can tell the home owner didn't care about a high end install and who knows.... Maybe the guys went and bought the material themselves and installed it for free as a perk for having been awarded the paint job; makes customer happy, and it is good business and should get recognition for it instead of being criticized on something you do not know the specifics of the job. These guys work really hard to produce massive amount of videos pros can actually learn from and before you critic, try uploading a fraction of what these guys produce in a month.... I have yet to see Paint Life upload criticisms about other people's how to videos. All great TH-cam Channels who upload quality How-To-Videos seldom or ever critic other's people's work and so do pros who been in the business all their lives because we all had to learn how to do something at some point in time and we do not need to be a pro to share on ideas I think; just take it for what it is guys, thank them for the upload and just say you would have probably installed it differently if it bugs you that much and let Paint Life respond to you and ask you how you would install it if they are curious or have the time to take it further ... and don't forget: These guys aren't NBC or ABC or FOX network, it's a mom and pop shop video production, I dare anyone to try to do the equivalent.
Anyway, sorry for the rant. I don't mean to be disrespectful to anyone with opinions.
Thanks for support, we appreciate it greatly!
Are you nailing into drywall only and expecting it to hold?
Great job Mr
I am new to your channel. Thanks for showing the return on the ends of the chair rail. I do still have some questions on how to do this, particularly regarding the corners and ends of the wall. But this is kind of old so I will do a bit more searching to see what I can find. Thanks for posting this. It does get me started.
Awesome work guys. Very professional.
Thank you!
Don't forget to use your safety glasses when cutting . . .you'll be gald you did! Thanks for your post.
Very good video. Do the 18 gage pins really hold the bead board securely over time given they are going into drywall only. Do you use any glue, and what kind, ever to hold the bead board to the painted wall surface?
Would have like to have seen more detail on how you met the border at the 90 degree corner of the wall.
Contour gage for the win
If you were to put a shelf on the top of the beadboard would you make the bottom of the beadboard the uneven part since it will be covered by the baseboard?
So when u install this board the full length of the wall but only one wall do u butt it to the molding or remove it and if u do remove it what would u do about the molding on the other wall sitting back farther
OMG, I have that same level. Had a laser in it. I think I got it at Radio Shack of all places!
Interesting that you installed the chair rail FIRST before the bead board. I would have done it the other way around. Is that the way you should do it.?
Not sure if I misunderstood, but the chair rail is being nailed into bare drywall with no backing, and only hitting studs at the 16" intervals?? Not sure how that will hold up.
Great job. Looks awesome. Thanks for posting!
Can you tell me the different names for these wall paneling styles?
Nice job! @10:06 That is called a scarf joint.
So when you install the wooden boards if there is not studs you nail them into the drywall?
What size nails do you use? How do you avoid nailing into electrical wires?
Great informative video. You should be using safety glasses when you're using saws.
What are you nailing the bead board to? Studs?
assume you put the skirting on because if thats not level then there is no point cutting all your panelling to the same length ...but job looks nice.
The "end of the end" is called a return. Level is horizontal. Plumb is vertical. At 11:17 I see gaps at the top of the run under the chair rail. At 11:45 they are gone. Caulking? And why leave the art on the wall?
Do your best and caulk the rest :p
Yall made it look easy! Is He your son in law? oh yeah I passed the state exam & now a Paint & Decor Licensed Contractor in CA thanks for your videos & knowledge
Please explain to me how you cut the finish end piece.
Is that and 18 incher or 16? I know it’s not a 24
How did you make the return?
Are your boards cut 36 inches to sit on top of the baseboards?
yes
So my question is why not cut all the boards to length, pin them up and then snap a chalk line and cut them all at the same time before installing the top board?
Great informative video
Did you use a primer on the raw wood or did you use a paint/primer combo?
Thank you!
Question:
Can I nail the same way with plaster in a 100 year old home?
Random Dude ,a couple of silicon dabs x 4 and a couple of 16 gauge brad nails.
Great Job! Does your painting company offer this as a service?
You can't just pull out an outlet out of the electrical box to lengthen it. You need to add box extensions or refit the electrical box so it's flush with the paneling.
Yeah
I appreciate your videos thanks to WranglerStar. I am working on a 1920s Sears kit house with lathe & plaster interior walls. Your tips helped with filling the large cracks (up to 1/2"). But I think I want to do a crown moulding. I think it is 1/2" to 3/4" thick; Can you confirm that as I want to use the nailer. I assume I want a larger moulding as the walls are 8'. I found a 4" x 8' simulated wainscot for under the existing waist board as this can be fastened only at the top behind a claw-foot tub - any advise?
Hello, what kind of camera set up do you use? thanks!!
great video thanks for sharing
Tell me that you weren't the guy that did the previous sheetrock repair under the window.
Also, the comments are showing they were done two weeks ago. Hmmm.
😂 what size level is that and where did you buy that?
DFW is going to be jealous! LOL
What is the color or your wall? Thanks 😊
So long ago cannot remember
what about nailing to plaster walls?
I didn't realize the pin nails would be able to secure the boards to Sheetrock.
Yes
I don't see how nailing to sheetrock will hold anything without glue.
OK
Decent video but I suggest properly mitering the chair corner and ripping a rabbit on the back of the chair rail to overlap the bead board which will eliminate any visible gap.....which is visible.
OK
There are gaps between the vertical boards and the top horizontal board. Stick with painting if that is your business.
I saw that too. Couldn't you just make a rabbet along the trim maybe just 1/4" to cover that? Or should you do that on the bottom?
@@andrewpiechocki9006 I had to make a 1/4" rabbet on the bottom of the chair rail. It works awesome.
I don’t see any gaps
excellent tutorial. well done.
one question:
WHY THE HELL DID YOU PAINT OVER WOOD?!
PAINT WALLS, not wood. imho
Especially if you have gorgeous material you are working with.
if thats what the client wanted, ok. but i believe it's your job to teach.
His pictures are on the wall.
I found great plans on the Stodoys plans website. I think this is a good solution for everyone.
did you just touch up the over spray on the wall or full refund paint
Cover bad patch job
RJM@54 2/7/2018
what is up with the Bible Verses on the bottom right corner
Sharing some of my favorite verses!
🤔 my dar went off...
You should stick to painting
Lol a Jigsaw not a Skill but yes