This was painful to watch. You don’t use mdf for baseboard. Is to porus it swells when wet. You’ll sell as soon as you take a mop to that floor. Second.. stop spackeling edges on mdf. Use bullseye shellac base primer . Scuff smooth when dry . Done . Third . Pocket screw your stiles and rails in one assembly. It will ensure perfect joints that won’t separate. And lastly you should always lay out wanescott with a vertical stile at the ends of each wall . It’s traditionally how it’s done .looks funny otherwise. Also latex primer on mdf is a no no . The water raises the fiber and leaves you with a lumpy finish . A cabinetmaker
Really well done the bud, that's a great job. My wife seen it and now she's buy me power tools for father's Day, it's bit like when Homer bought Marge a bowling ball 😂. Honestly though I need them , thanks for video keep up the good work 👍
@@bp7770 would you give it a rest , did you not hear what he said at the start? It's his firs time doing it ffs. I suppose everything you do first time is top notch?
Just FYI, we don’t do “project cuts” at Home Depot. Our saw is basically to help customers that don’t have a large vehicle, get their plywood home. We are told to refuse anything more than that. Don’t expect to go there and have them “cut all your trim pieces” out of a sheet of plywood. Rent a saw and do it in the parking lot if u feel the need. I’m just sayin…. 🤷♂️👍
There is a dude who made a video about how he fits all his lumber into a normal car, by taking his tools when he buys lumber and cutting it all down in the parking lot. If anyone can remember who that is, it's a great video and he has other excellent videos too
I don't do wood work, but I just loved this video and it made me want to go out and buy the tools and make this myself and put it in my apt. Thank you for sharing!
I won't lie to ya bruh, I have watched other channels do this wainscoting thing... And yours is by far the most simplistic!🤷🏽♂️ It makes the average DIY GUY feel like he can bust it out! THANK YOU!💪🏽👍🏽💯
Very nice work, man. But wouldn't it better to do that after you redo the floor? How will you remove the tiles without damaging the lower MDF board and the shoe molding?
Use an old credit card or used gift card for your caulking joints. Wipes clean after and if not you have three more corners and not out anything in the end.
I love your laundry room! I wish I could share a picture of what mine currently looks like, I tie dye as a business and there is bits of dye EVERYWHERE, let alone all the other stuff that goes with it. One day, I hope to have a pretty room in there but not until I have a dedicated area to dye in.
Alright this is looking great at the end but...3 things...1 use primer mold resistant sealer (or a stain blocker if you're not worried about mold) on your baseboards and you don't need to do this mudding process at all. There is a reason why they sell primed MDF baseboards and trims at stores. 2 instead of but joint and pocket holes you should have done 45° miters on both pieces so the one goes behind the other and the joint is seamless. Simple finishing tips and tricks. 3 wouldn't be easier and more accurate to just measure 36" - the witch of your baseboard from the top of your baseboard to get this as level as possible?
I glue and pocket screw the whole assembly together. This keeps everything aligned, holds the stiles in the absence of studs and keeps my paint from cracking at the joints.
Good video. I am a 3rd generation carpenter and have done many different styles and lay-outs for wanescoting. I just wanted to give a few tips. 1 - just use 1x4 or 1x5 (actual sizes in canada are 11/16" x 3.5"/4.5") material over sheet goods (it costs less and comes pre-primed and you don't have to rip anything and that joint at 8 ft. won't occur because they come 16ft. long) 2 - The best way to do this style is to buy a 4' x 16' x 3/4" sheet and cut-out the squares so there are no joints to crack over time. this style will eventually crack so filling the vertical will only work for a few years unless you join them (ie. biscuits or other way). You could use a 1/8 roundover bit on the cross-cut ends (like concrete curbs) to make it look like you planned for the eventual cracking that is almost guaranteed to occur.
I’ve been considering doing something like this in one of my rooms! Looks great man! Love it. You do clean work and I think any woodworker or craftsman can appreciate the quality you pump out.
this video gave me soo much confidence! Your voiceover is the best one I've listened to yet (bonus points = saying what you'd do differently during the process if you could, SO appreciated)! Saving on to the project playlist I'm building up :) :)
Just subscribe, great vid... I'm gonna check if you left a link with listing of the tools used on this vid; I'm working on my home DIY home shoppe garage, would you send me a list of "must have tools" like I see on your shop.. basic ones like saws, nailers, staplers and such, uff 😅😅, I know. A lot to ask, just reply when possible and only if you have the time. Thanks again for a great video 👌🏻👌🏻
Awesome video, and great explanations! When you redo the flooring are you going to have to tear out your new baseboards, or do you just push it up against the baseboards? I’m running into the same issue with my home and not sure which project to tackle first (flooring vs board/batten)
Definitely flooring! I was surprised at the end when he said he was planning to replace the floors. It's difficult to predict the thickness of the new flooring let alone have it be exactly the same thickness as the previous floor especially if a different underlayment is required.
Great work. The only question I have is.... u use 3.5 inch for the riser trim and 5.5 for the bottom and the additional trim is 1.5 but how big is the top horizontal trim?
Next time you have a contrasting wall color, Run a bread of caulk along the corner for a super straight cut in line. Being that this is your first time why is this a "HOW TO" instead of a "HOW I" video. Your "patch board" should have a 45 degree cut also with the overlap facing away from the most viewed area. THERE IS NO "X" IN ESPECIALLY! FYI: fingerboard trim... after several years the glue releases and the wood starts coming apart.
What is the general rule for the distance between each vertical board? I know this is likely based on the width of MDF or Baseboard used, but is there a rule of thumb?
I’ve used Mdf a few time and it’s such a versatile product. Let’s say you route a profile in it what’s the best way to seal a cut edge? Should I use a bit of poly and then paint? Your channel is amazing. Thank you for sharing.
@2:00 no...because it's no fun when you're the guy waiting for a single crosscut so you can fit a sheet of plywood in your car but the guy in front wants 2 sheets of MDF ripped into 24 - 4" pieces for batten.
Nice idea on ganging them up to seal the edges. I think I'd probably have cut all the verticals the same and installed them first and then pushed the top rail down to meet them, but I can see how that could be a problem if the floor is uneven, then your top rail would follow that unevenness and be wavy. The longer it is the worse that problem would be. I've also seen people cut the entire thing out of one sheet (removing the rectangle areas, essentially, so there are no seems at all) you can get 10 foot long MDF so this can work in a small room.
Your choice of MDF is off to me. Real pine is lighter and much easier to work with alone. Also, and room that needs mopping instead of dry dusting should not have MDF touching the floor. Will absorb water and delaminates. Final comment: wear a mask when cutting MDF. Its not good for you at all to breathe!
Looks great, personally I would of put some picture moulding the same thickness as the mdf inside each segment rather than just have the square edge but thats just my taste. Great job all the same.
You should NEVER EVER EVER use MDF for the baseboards. The slightest bit of moisture and they swell and are ruined. You’re using this in a laundry room, and the harsh reality of that is that at some point in its life, this room will probably see flooding from a leaking washer, or pet damage. ALWAYS use real wood or plywood for base mounding. Always.
One guy has a video on TH-cam just about caulk and how to get the smallest bead out of the tip, i have got to find it again and try it next project... Looks awesome, i have had bad luck with MDF in bathrooms and laundry where moisture makes it swell. Hope yours holds up.
Nice video. Inspired from this video about the wall color ideas. I also applied it on my first wainscoating DIY project video✌️. Thank you 'Fixed This Built That' for a great ideas.
Holy crap..... Wasn't gonna say anything about all the shady practices but when I got to the part putting MDF as baseboard in a laundry room I had to speak up....😬😬
You say you didn't glue the boards, but you pretty much did when you caulked them. That caulk will hold them on better than the nails, so I can't see a need for glue on the back of them as well. I would have used the caulking on all joints and gaps, rather than the spackle on the few you did. Laundry rooms see big temperature and moisture swings so I'm a little worried the spackle joints will crack over time.
I see you are using 5.25" tall baseboard and 3.5" wide vertical slats, however you do not mention the board width for the upper horizontal rail. What board width did you use?
How to install the beadboard near and under the window? which additional gang outlet box spaser extender to use (if using planks? he didn’t say anything... absolutely useless video.👎👎👎
@@villagecarpenter2266 The origin does not determine pronunciation in etymology. "Wain" has a long a, but "wall" has a short a sound. They are different. Why should anyone assuming that "coting" uses the same long o sound as "coating"? They are spelled differently and the first part of the word is pronounced differently. Both are accepted pronunciations and often region and dialect specific. Just like the word Tomato. Again, knowing the origin does not determine pronunciation.
One question - how did you decide how wide to place the verticals? Usually, I see a board at each end - yours doesn't have that. Are their guidelines for these decisions?
Why wouldn’t you do the floor first if you said it’s gotta go? Looks like you’ll be pull that Quarter round off. Hopefully you don’t mess up the wainscoting.
Where can I buy the clamp you used to hold the wood in place while working buy yourself? You called it a spanning clamp but can't find it under that term.
I don't understand why so many people use that quarter round to help hide the gap on baseboard. The real trick is to scribe the bottom of it, run the bottom through a table saw at a 45 not removing any width to the trim (just to remove the material you wont see) and then sand down the material to your scribe line. That way you arent trying to sand down the whole bottom and only that 45 angle point at the bottom.
Did you use the same dimensions for the corners? One corner looks larger than the other in the pics from your tutorial? I was always taught to rip down or pad one stile when doing corners for a uniform look, I didn't see you address this in your video nor tutorial. Can you explain?
You really do need a 12" miter saw for tall trim, it's too difficult to turn it over because there's always too many 45 degree cuts in new construction.
Hey man, great work thanks for the video. What colour blue is that on the wall? I want to use that in my bathroom too. Can you please give me the code?
0:45 you said nice blue green but what's the exact name for that color? I really love that color. Pls give me exact name so I can get it from home depot thank you
Did your wall have texture? I want to do that but the wall has the texture and think it might look weird. I watched a video where the guy floated the whole wall to get rid of texture but that seems like a lot. Thanks!
It looks beautiful. Very well done- especially for your first go at it. It makes me feel like I should try my hand at it. But I doubt it would turn out as well lol
really?, you're going to replace the flooring after this? LOL, I think you'll look back and wish you'd done the floor first. I'm just saying. That said, you have the two most important characteristics of any kind of woodworker, builder and or average person (in my opinion) that being patience and determination.. with these two characteristics you can accomplish almost anything in life. keep up the quality videos, and don't forget to enjoy life with your family (without them life is pointless). thumbs up & subscribed.
Getting ready to add this to a bathroom we are putting in our walkout basement for pool access and I really appreciate all your tips on what you did and what you would do next time! Thank you.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Download the SketchUp model to layout your own room here:
fixthisbuildthat.com/how-to-install-wainscoting-diy-board-and-batten/
your site does not work
This was painful to watch. You don’t use mdf for baseboard. Is to porus it swells when wet. You’ll sell as soon as you take a mop to that floor. Second.. stop spackeling edges on mdf. Use bullseye shellac base primer . Scuff smooth when dry . Done . Third . Pocket screw your stiles and rails in one assembly. It will ensure perfect joints that won’t separate. And lastly you should always lay out wanescott with a vertical stile at the ends of each wall . It’s traditionally how it’s done .looks funny otherwise. Also latex primer on mdf is a no no . The water raises the fiber and leaves you with a lumpy finish .
A cabinetmaker
Really well done the bud, that's a great job. My wife seen it and now she's buy me power tools for father's Day, it's bit like when Homer bought Marge a bowling ball 😂. Honestly though I need them , thanks for video keep up the good work 👍
@@bp7770 would you give it a rest , did you not hear what he said at the start? It's his firs time doing it ffs. I suppose everything you do first time is top notch?
@@bp7770 I bet none of those things will happen and no one will notice any mistakes
Just FYI, we don’t do “project cuts” at Home Depot. Our saw is basically to help customers that don’t have a large vehicle, get their plywood home. We are told to refuse anything more than that. Don’t expect to go there and have them “cut all your trim pieces” out of a sheet of plywood. Rent a saw and do it in the parking lot if u feel the need. I’m just sayin…. 🤷♂️👍
There is a dude who made a video about how he fits all his lumber into a normal car, by taking his tools when he buys lumber and cutting it all down in the parking lot. If anyone can remember who that is, it's a great video and he has other excellent videos too
Was he a Canadian dude with cury long black hair
I used to work as a trim Carpenter and the preferred wood for Wainscott is Poplar because it's solid and it takes paint very well.
Yeah but MDF will look better for longer than using wood/sheet
@@Vested_Keep3r unless that washer leaked...
Agree, I would use poplar
@@Vested_Keep3r No chance. 35 year painter, mdf edges are NEVER as smooth as poplar.
Is any type of timber good in water ?
I don't do wood work, but I just loved this video and it made me want to go out and buy the tools and make this myself and put it in my apt. Thank you for sharing!
Good looking laundry room, Brad. Another good video.
thank you!
Good luck getting my Home Depot to make all those cuts.
Yep. The miter saw at mine has been “broken” for six months.
I won't lie to ya bruh, I have watched other channels do this wainscoting thing... And yours is by far the most simplistic!🤷🏽♂️ It makes the average DIY GUY feel like he can bust it out! THANK YOU!💪🏽👍🏽💯
Very nice work, man. But wouldn't it better to do that after you redo the floor? How will you remove the tiles without damaging the lower MDF board and the shoe molding?
It's vinyl :) So it will come up easily and then I'll just remove the shoe molding.
Oh, I see. Thank you for replying!
So funny. That was me first thought when he mentioned the floors.
@@drbabcock2009 yeah me too
@@fultonyt8989 x2
Use an old credit card or used gift card for your caulking joints. Wipes clean after and if not you have three more corners and not out anything in the end.
Nice tip!
I love your laundry room! I wish I could share a picture of what mine currently looks like, I tie dye as a business and there is bits of dye EVERYWHERE, let alone all the other stuff that goes with it. One day, I hope to have a pretty room in there but not until I have a dedicated area to dye in.
Love your videos Brad! This is another great one!
+JScheider45 thank you!
Brad, I think you called it a spanning clamp for working alone. Is there another name for it? I want to get something like that for my projects.
Alright this is looking great at the end but...3 things...1 use primer mold resistant sealer (or a stain blocker if you're not worried about mold) on your baseboards and you don't need to do this mudding process at all. There is a reason why they sell primed MDF baseboards and trims at stores. 2 instead of but joint and pocket holes you should have done 45° miters on both pieces so the one goes behind the other and the joint is seamless. Simple finishing tips and tricks. 3 wouldn't be easier and more accurate to just measure 36" - the witch of your baseboard from the top of your baseboard to get this as level as possible?
Nice Work! Very clever at 06:45 !
I have a few tricks up my sleeve :)
Great video I enjoyed the pacing, quick, direct and to the point. Well done project as well. Keep up the good work love the channel.
Thanks for the feedback, I try to keep things to the point but filled with info!
Great video
I glue and pocket screw the whole assembly together. This keeps everything aligned, holds the stiles in the absence of studs and keeps my paint from cracking at the joints.
That is what I was thinking about doing.
👍👍 watched your vinyl floor video as well< great vids!
Good video. I am a 3rd generation carpenter and have done many different styles and lay-outs for wanescoting. I just wanted to give a few tips.
1 - just use 1x4 or 1x5 (actual sizes in canada are 11/16" x 3.5"/4.5") material over sheet goods (it costs less and comes pre-primed and you don't have to rip anything and that joint at 8 ft. won't occur because they come 16ft. long)
2 - The best way to do this style is to buy a 4' x 16' x 3/4" sheet and cut-out the squares so there are no joints to crack over time. this style will eventually crack so filling the vertical will only work for a few years unless you join them (ie. biscuits or other way). You could use a 1/8 roundover bit on the cross-cut ends (like concrete curbs) to make it look like you planned for the eventual cracking that is almost guaranteed to occur.
I I’ll know this is old, but can you explain what you mean by “cut out the squares”
I'd like to do this in a bathroom, but worried about using MDF/HDF in a moist environment. Would this work using PVC boards?
Nice build..but no way would I have used mdf!
MDF in a possible wet area? never!
Nostalgia from 2018 "I used one 4x8 sheet of MDF board from Home Depot, was probably only about $35."
"Today's price - $92.45."
I just did my entire room in 32x48 wainscoting MDF board from HD, was less than $150 for an 11x17 master.
I’ve been considering doing something like this in one of my rooms! Looks great man! Love it. You do clean work and I think any woodworker or craftsman can appreciate the quality you pump out.
thanks, BJ!
I would have started the panels from the corners. It looks like they've been cut in half like that 🤔
I know this looked crazy. I’ve never seen not starting in corners and even measured boxes.
Great job man!!!!!!
Man, you are a perfectionist. I thought I was bad.
Didn’t cope corners for a tighter fit and didn’t use glue before applying trim, won’t last too long before cracking
This looks great but won’t you have to tear some of it off the wall to redo the floors?
Just the shoe molding. It's trimmed up to the baseboards or just slightly under.
Very nice job, with one exception. Proper wainscoting should have vertical boards at each end of the wall. Without them, the wall looks unbalanced.
I disagree, looks great either way, but I do understand your point for symmetry.
this video gave me soo much confidence! Your voiceover is the best one I've listened to yet (bonus points = saying what you'd do differently during the process if you could, SO appreciated)! Saving on to the project playlist I'm building up :) :)
Just subscribe, great vid... I'm gonna check if you left a link with listing of the tools used on this vid; I'm working on my home DIY home shoppe garage, would you send me a list of "must have tools" like I see on your shop.. basic ones like saws, nailers, staplers and such, uff 😅😅, I know. A lot to ask, just reply when possible and only if you have the time. Thanks again for a great video 👌🏻👌🏻
I plan to make a more indepth list for beginners, but here is my current stuff. Fixthisbuildthat.com/tools
Great Job, probably should have done the flooring first before the wainscoting. Looks good!
Just the right amount of explanations, plain and simple, thanks!
Thank you!
If your miter saw tilts 45° you can make the same cut on the face of the board instead of trying to cut it on edge
Awesome video, and great explanations! When you redo the flooring are you going to have to tear out your new baseboards, or do you just push it up against the baseboards? I’m running into the same issue with my home and not sure which project to tackle first (flooring vs board/batten)
Definitely flooring! I was surprised at the end when he said he was planning to replace the floors. It's difficult to predict the thickness of the new flooring let alone have it be exactly the same thickness as the previous floor especially if a different underlayment is required.
Sand edges of mdf the use spray varnish to seal it sand it one more time when dry a paint away. If not smooth enough rinse and repeat
+Chandlers Kustom Creations great tip. That would be way faster!
Need a back panel for textured walls.
You mentioned the baseboard is 5.5 inches and stiles are 3.5. But what is the measurement of the top rail?
I think the top is 3.5
I am looking to do this exact thing in a downstairs half-bath and this video laid everything out nicely - Thanks!
Literally the best video I’ve found on this. Uses all the terms, product used and I love the added website for design!
Great work, Brad. I just did a similar treatment to an entire 12’ tall wall on our stairs. I love the board and batten look.
Wow, bet that was a lot of work.
Hmm…why can’t you use the long cut rather than top down cut on the miter saw?
Great work. The only question I have is.... u use 3.5 inch for the riser trim and 5.5 for the bottom and the additional trim is 1.5 but how big is the top horizontal trim?
love it! quick question. Why not do the floor first? Aren't you going to have to rip up that baseboard in the future?
Next time you have a contrasting wall color,
Run a bread of caulk along the corner for a super straight cut in line.
Being that this is your first time why is this a
"HOW TO" instead of a "HOW I" video.
Your "patch board" should have a 45 degree cut also with the overlap facing away from the most viewed area.
THERE IS NO "X" IN ESPECIALLY!
FYI: fingerboard trim... after several years the glue releases and the wood starts coming apart.
You have to do the floor now? I think I would've done that first because now you have to remove your shoe mould. Nice job though 😉. Looks really good.
What is the general rule for the distance between each vertical board? I know this is likely based on the width of MDF or Baseboard used, but is there a rule of thumb?
I’ve used Mdf a few time and it’s such a versatile product. Let’s say you route a profile in it what’s the best way to seal a cut edge? Should I use a bit of poly and then paint? Your channel is amazing. Thank you for sharing.
I've recently been told spray on shellac does a good job
Fix This Build That thanks for the response. My next project is mdf based so I’ll diffidently give it a go.
Was the wall textured? If so did you sand it before painting, or just keep the texture in place?
@2:00 no...because it's no fun when you're the guy waiting for a single crosscut so you can fit a sheet of plywood in your car but the guy in front wants 2 sheets of MDF ripped into 24 - 4" pieces for batten.
Hahahaha, true.
Sounds like one of the two of you needs to buck up for a truck.
That washing machine sucks sadly..
Thanks for the inspiration! This looks like it could even be done with nothing but a circular saw and a miter box if that's all you had.
Nice idea on ganging them up to seal the edges. I think I'd probably have cut all the verticals the same and installed them first and then pushed the top rail down to meet them, but I can see how that could be a problem if the floor is uneven, then your top rail would follow that unevenness and be wavy. The longer it is the worse that problem would be. I've also seen people cut the entire thing out of one sheet (removing the rectangle areas, essentially, so there are no seems at all) you can get 10 foot long MDF so this can work in a small room.
Wow, a one piece frame would be interesting. A bear to handle but perfect seams
Your choice of MDF is off to me. Real pine is lighter and much easier to work with alone. Also, and room that needs mopping instead of dry dusting should not have MDF touching the floor. Will absorb water and delaminates. Final comment: wear a mask when cutting MDF. Its not good for you at all to breathe!
Looks great and it does completely change the look of the room.
Thank you!
Looks great, personally I would of put some picture moulding the same thickness as the mdf inside each segment rather than just have the square edge but thats just my taste. Great job all the same.
Love the video! Also worth noting that using an oil based primer on MDF is better than a water base in my opinion.
thanks!
Occasionally I have water spills or splashes in the laundry, would MDF hold up? Would you recommend a polyurethane coat?
You should NEVER EVER EVER use MDF for the baseboards. The slightest bit of moisture and they swell and are ruined. You’re using this in a laundry room, and the harsh reality of that is that at some point in its life, this room will probably see flooding from a leaking washer, or pet damage. ALWAYS use real wood or plywood for base mounding. Always.
I also have a lot of Rigid tools but I dont think Im going with their miter saw. Too much dust blowing back in your face.
Using this method for my foyer. Nice work.
One guy has a video on TH-cam just about caulk and how to get the smallest bead out of the tip, i have got to find it again and try it next project...
Looks awesome, i have had bad luck with MDF in bathrooms and laundry where moisture makes it swell. Hope yours holds up.
Nice video. Inspired from this video about the wall color ideas. I also applied it on my first wainscoating DIY project video✌️. Thank you 'Fixed This Built That' for a great ideas.
Looks great man! I hope my channel can get somewhere close to yours someday!
Holy crap..... Wasn't gonna say anything about all the shady practices but when I got to the part putting MDF as baseboard in a laundry room I had to speak up....😬😬
You can lay down vertical doesn't provide stability.. same cut but better if you lay the board down
My wife and I were just thinking a little board and batten wainscoting under my TV and a hallway. Great video.
+Adrian Orozco thanks!
Nice job but can you tell me why you didn't put the uprights tight against each end of the wall, does it ruin the look if you do it that way.
You say you didn't glue the boards, but you pretty much did when you caulked them. That caulk will hold them on better than the nails, so I can't see a need for glue on the back of them as well. I would have used the caulking on all joints and gaps, rather than the spackle on the few you did. Laundry rooms see big temperature and moisture swings so I'm a little worried the spackle joints will crack over time.
I see you are using 5.25" tall baseboard and 3.5" wide vertical slats, however you do not mention the board width for the upper horizontal rail. What board width did you use?
How to install the beadboard near and under the window? which additional gang outlet box spaser extender to use (if using planks? he didn’t say anything... absolutely useless video.👎👎👎
Thanks for saying wainscoting right :)
Also, Maytag! You go girl!!
+Jackman Works they only took me after I properly pronounced wainscoting
Actually, according to Merriam-Webster, the long "O" is the preferred pronunciation, although both are correct.
You obviously don't know where it gets its name from (origin)...Wain...as in wall, coting...as in coat. Hence "wall coating.
@@villagecarpenter2266 The origin does not determine pronunciation in etymology. "Wain" has a long a, but "wall" has a short a sound. They are different. Why should anyone assuming that "coting" uses the same long o sound as "coating"? They are spelled differently and the first part of the word is pronounced differently. Both are accepted pronunciations and often region and dialect specific. Just like the word Tomato. Again, knowing the origin does not determine pronunciation.
It can be said wainscotting or wainscOting. JS
My house has an extension where the walls are rendered brick. Is it possible to add Wainscoting on a rendered wall?
You may never see this, but I have a question. Why did you spackle all the edges of the MDF pieces before you painted them with primer?
Your note about puttying the edges of MDF is invaluable! Thank you!
One question - how did you decide how wide to place the verticals? Usually, I see a board at each end - yours doesn't have that. Are their guidelines for these decisions?
Ok, another question. What paint did you use? Something washable? Thank you!
Hi, thank you for this tutorial. How long did this take to do?
Why wouldn’t you do the floor first if you said it’s gotta go? Looks like you’ll be pull that Quarter round off. Hopefully you don’t mess up the wainscoting.
Where can I buy the clamp you used to hold the wood in place while working buy yourself? You called it a spanning clamp but can't find it under that term.
This look awesome, I am a newbie, I will tackle a project like this. What is the make and model of cordless nail gun, you are using?
I don't understand why so many people use that quarter round to help hide the gap on baseboard. The real trick is to scribe the bottom of it, run the bottom through a table saw at a 45 not removing any width to the trim (just to remove the material you wont see) and then sand down the material to your scribe line. That way you arent trying to sand down the whole bottom and only that 45 angle point at the bottom.
MDF baseboard in a laundry room??? Oh no. That's going to have a very interesting spongey texture after it gets water on it a few times
Did you use the same dimensions for the corners? One corner looks larger than the other in the pics from your tutorial? I was always taught to rip down or pad one stile when doing corners for a uniform look, I didn't see you address this in your video nor tutorial. Can you explain?
You really do need a 12" miter saw for tall trim, it's too difficult to turn it over because there's always too many 45 degree cuts in new construction.
English. Interpretation. Baseboard. = Skirting Board English Wainscoting = Dado Panels
Hey man, great work thanks for the video. What colour blue is that on the wall? I want to use that in my bathroom too. Can you please give me the code?
The wall looks really professional. I love the modern look.
Greetings from my channel, Arne
What kind of color are you using? Acrylic ?
+Kreith 32 thanks, Arne! It's Behr Clear Pond latex satin. Trim is off white semigloss
0:45 you said nice blue green but what's the exact name for that color? I really love that color. Pls give me exact name so I can get it from home depot thank you
Clear Pond by Behr
@@Fixthisbuildthat thank you so much!!
Nice work. Tell me about the workbench with the holes in it. Did you make or purchase it?
It's this table amzn.to/2G3Y2Je and it has a little brother too. It was sent to me by Armor Tool
Did your wall have texture? I want to do that but the wall has the texture and think it might look weird. I watched a video where the guy floated the whole wall to get rid of texture but that seems like a lot. Thanks!
So, have you developed cracks on all the joints since no use of dowls or biscuits were employed?
Im Enjoying your video and tips.Waching from Malaysia
I have that washer and dryer with steam and in gray/stainless and it has huge capacity
I assume you had already decided on a floating floor for the remodel, as a new tile floor would have been done before the wainscoting?
Nice video Brad! Spackle works, but why not just use edgeband to seal the edges? Keep it up man!
+steve dale honestly that's never even crossed my mind. Never seen it done. But don't see why it wouldn't work
Why do the trim before the flooring? Wont you have to pull the trim again when you do the flooring to make sure you get it all and that it fits well?
MDF in a laundry room? Pass! I would definitely use actual lumber.
It looks beautiful. Very well done- especially for your first go at it. It makes me feel like I should try my hand at it. But I doubt it would turn out as well lol
Dont doubt yaself bro! You can do it!💪🏽💯
Do you have to purchase sketchup? And where do you find it? Is it a download?
It's on my website for free and SketchUp is a free program
really?, you're going to replace the flooring after this? LOL, I think you'll look back and wish you'd done the floor first. I'm just saying. That said, you have the two most important characteristics of any kind of woodworker, builder and or average person (in my opinion) that being patience and determination.. with these two characteristics you can accomplish almost anything in life. keep up the quality videos, and don't forget to enjoy life with your family (without them life is pointless). thumbs up & subscribed.
Getting ready to add this to a bathroom we are putting in our walkout basement for pool access and I really appreciate all your tips on what you did and what you would do next time! Thank you.
those top loading agitatorless washers are absolutely horrible. I have one and it sucks.