@@jounistactics No just use lithium grease, not loads just enough to fill the gaps between the cutter the metal will get pushed in between the cutter teeth, Don`t forget the cutter has a stem going through it, then this will enter the hole in at the bottom of the head so cuttings won`t usually fall in, but its getting them out once you pull the cutter out,grease will do that. Or cut it dry, then gently pull the cutter out and get a vacuum tape some small tube to it like brake hose and suck the bits out. Or wear goggles take the glow plug out and blow air into it this will blast the metal out of the injector port, Sorry for the saying being used here ,more than one way to skin a cat when doing these injector ports,
Your video's are extremely usefull. Gonna be replacing swirl flaps on my v70 D5 from 2006 however i got injector 1 completely stuck, even the local volvo garage tried to help me getting it out but they couldn't. I'm at the stage where i can spin it about 30° both clockwise and anti clockwise, spraying penetrating oil every day and it will give at some point. Bought me a set like you're showing in this video, however it also came with brushes that fit in the bore hole and smaller ones for the clamp screw holes aswell. When cleaning the bore with brushes i was thinking about trying To plug the hole where the nozzle goes through, perhaps too risky my plug might fall through into the cilinder? Also the mechanic at Volvo told me that spinning a stuck injector is dangerous as it might unscrew the nozzle assembly, what are your thoughts about that? I think as long as i dont spin the injector more as 30° it shouldn't be possible for the nozzle assembly to come appart. Many thanks for your video's, you're good at explaining things. Greetings from northern Sweden
Thank you for your comment. The best way to clean the injector port is to use the screwdriver and rag soaked in carb cleaner method explained at 2:40 and I wouldn't be tempted to stray too far from that.
Question: my seat has a indent due to incorrect use of a screwdriver when getting the copper washer out. Can it be reamed so its completely flat, indent is at 11 o clock and possible 1-2mm.
If you were on a tight budget You may get away with cleaning the seat up from all oil get a piece of cotton rag lint free old pillow case,clean all oil and gunk out, of the injector cylinder, spray de greaser on the cloth first then push down with screw driver and twist the screwdriver this will force the cloth to twist grabbing the crap ,if you have brass pipe cleaners,you can use them as well, Once clean , place a long wooden smooth or plastic peg down the hole but make sure it long enough not to loose it through the hole,and sticks high enough to hold it, Then get your self that two part metal putty usually black and grey mixture stuff it dries like metal , wear gloves, place in your hand just by squeezing it several times until its mixed well, Then find away to place some in and around 1-2 mm gap and allow it to sit slightly proud, spin the plastic or wooden long dowel out, Now leave 24 hours for the metal putty to dry, now get cheap cutter` apply a bit of thick lithium clear grease to the end of the cutter now gently center it place the nib of the cutter in the hole and start cutting the hard metal putty away, pull out and clean then repeat cutting some of the metal as well, but only apply light pressure as you turn the cutter, then clean up, Get your self a little grease and smear slightly over bottom of copper washer, best way to center washer is get your self that long bit of plastic or rod place in hole, then drop copper washer over the rod and it will drop down to the bottom of the seat, pull out rod then place injector in, If you don`t want to do this` the other way might be to grind away until you get it smooth then ad two copper washers, If failing that replace the head but you will need to have it ground and a new gasket,
WD40 penetrating fluid down walls of the injector port and a strong magnet? Perhaps some strong glue putty on a stick to lift out..... Not sure but good luck.
My injector seat is damaged,can i actually cut approximately 1mm of metal in the bottom of the seat with this tool,or it is only for the cleaning dirty injector seats?Can it actually cut metal?
I’ve just used this tool on a Mercedes sprinter, but the reamer has left marks on the seat, is there a technique to stop this happening. First injector sealed great, having massive problems with the second one that’s been leaking for a long time, reamed the seat fitted refurbed injector and still leaks, I’ve now gone for a thicker washer, but I still would like to smooth the seat more.
The tool is for removing carbon in conjunction with carb cleaner so shouldn't be used with the kind of pressure that could damage the metal seat. Using a marginally thicker copper washer may be your only cheap option unfortunately.
SiRobb I’ve read these are used to take material off to get seat back again, mine had been leaking a very long time, that it had made a groove in the seat. So I had no choice but to take material away. Hopefully a thicker seal will work 🤞
I always use grease on the cutting tool to stop any metal dropping off and going down into the hole,Nice clean up job
That is a great tip, stealing this for next week. Cheers.
Won't the grease go into the cylinder and mess things up?
I imagine they're using a stickier, thicker non runny grease. Just a smear for the swarf to stick to.
Axle grease, brake grease etc.
@@jounistactics No just use lithium grease, not loads just enough to fill the gaps between the cutter the metal will get pushed in between the cutter teeth,
Don`t forget the cutter has a stem going through it, then this will enter the hole in at the bottom of the head so cuttings won`t usually fall in, but its getting them out once you pull the cutter out,grease will do that.
Or cut it dry, then gently pull the cutter out and get a vacuum tape some small tube to it like brake hose and suck the bits out.
Or wear goggles take the glow plug out and blow air into it this will blast the metal out of the injector port,
Sorry for the saying being used here ,more than one way to skin a cat when doing these injector ports,
Excellent video. I’ve spent years working on cars, yet I still find videos of how too like yours which add to a person’s knowledge. Thank you 🙏
Very clear instructions, just what I needed. I bought this tool recently and hope to use it at the weekend. Thanks again.
Fabulous work.
Will all the bits fall into the cylinder ? I know there is a dowel in the middle but it looks like it will fall in when removed
Volume would be nice bro
Your video's are extremely usefull.
Gonna be replacing swirl flaps on my v70 D5 from 2006 however i got injector 1 completely stuck, even the local volvo garage tried to help me getting it out but they couldn't.
I'm at the stage where i can spin it about 30° both clockwise and anti clockwise, spraying penetrating oil every day and it will give at some point.
Bought me a set like you're showing in this video, however it also came with brushes that fit in the bore hole and smaller ones for the clamp screw holes aswell.
When cleaning the bore with brushes i was thinking about trying To plug the hole where the nozzle goes through, perhaps too risky my plug might fall through into the cilinder?
Also the mechanic at Volvo told me that spinning a stuck injector is dangerous as it might unscrew the nozzle assembly, what are your thoughts about that?
I think as long as i dont spin the injector more as 30° it shouldn't be possible for the nozzle assembly to come appart.
Many thanks for your video's, you're good at explaining things.
Greetings from northern Sweden
Thank you for your comment.
The best way to clean the injector port is to use the screwdriver and rag soaked in carb cleaner method explained at 2:40 and I wouldn't be tempted to stray too far from that.
Question: my seat has a indent due to incorrect use of a screwdriver when getting the copper washer out. Can it be reamed so its completely flat, indent is at 11 o clock and possible 1-2mm.
@@terjegronlie1181 I would speak to an engineer. 1-2mm is quite deep.
If you were on a tight budget
You may get away with cleaning the seat up from all oil get a piece of cotton rag lint free old pillow case,clean all oil and gunk out, of the injector cylinder,
spray de greaser on the cloth first then push down with screw driver and twist the screwdriver this will force the cloth to twist grabbing the crap ,if you have brass pipe cleaners,you can use them as well,
Once clean , place a long wooden smooth or plastic peg down the hole but make sure it long enough not to loose it through the hole,and sticks high enough to hold it,
Then get your self that two part metal putty usually black and grey mixture stuff it dries like metal , wear gloves, place in your hand just by squeezing it several times until its mixed well,
Then find away to place some in and around 1-2 mm gap and allow it to sit slightly proud, spin the plastic or wooden long dowel out,
Now leave 24 hours for the metal putty to dry, now get cheap cutter` apply a bit of thick lithium clear grease to the end of the cutter now gently center it place the nib of the cutter in the hole and start cutting the hard metal putty away,
pull out and clean then repeat cutting some of the metal as well, but only apply light pressure as you turn the cutter,
then clean up,
Get your self a little grease and smear slightly over bottom of copper washer, best way to center washer is get your self that long bit of plastic or rod place in hole, then drop copper washer over the rod and it will drop down to the bottom of the seat,
pull out rod then place injector in,
If you don`t want to do this` the other way might be to grind away until you get it smooth then ad two copper washers,
If failing that replace the head but you will need to have it ground and a new gasket,
Sir rob I need your help I Have stripped the threads on the aluminium block my inject the boat will not tighten down
mick ladd Ouch. Unfortunately, that's not something I can help you with.
you will have to drill and tap it out to a larger diameter. careful not to drill too far.
Attempt a retap of same thread first sometimes might be enough to fix it's self
if it is alloy then you need to use a tap designed for aluminium as this will provide a stronger thread by compressing as well as cutting.
I've done the same lol, I assume the head will have to come off regardless to drill, tap and install helixcoil?
Just a question. . . The reaming end got stuck in the injector, do you have any idea on how to remove we are stumped
WD40 penetrating fluid down walls of the injector port and a strong magnet? Perhaps some strong glue putty on a stick to lift out.....
Not sure but good luck.
Hi there so i have a Audi A6 2.0tdi 2012 how do i actually go.aboit correct size to use for my bosch injector . Great vid by the way
Ask on a forum or check the Bosch website for part number and dimensions. 👍🏾
My injector seat is damaged,can i actually cut approximately 1mm of metal in the bottom of the seat with this tool,or it is only for the cleaning dirty injector seats?Can it actually cut metal?
no way
Late reply but I use a injector seat cutting tool you can set the depth and just use a thicker washer
I’ve just used this tool on a Mercedes sprinter, but the reamer has left marks on the seat, is there a technique to stop this happening. First injector sealed great, having massive problems with the second one that’s been leaking for a long time, reamed the seat fitted refurbed injector and still leaks, I’ve now gone for a thicker washer, but I still would like to smooth the seat more.
The tool is for removing carbon in conjunction with carb cleaner so shouldn't be used with the kind of pressure that could damage the metal seat.
Using a marginally thicker copper washer may be your only cheap option unfortunately.
SiRobb I’ve read these are used to take material off to get seat back again, mine had been leaking a very long time, that it had made a groove in the seat. So I had no choice but to take material away. Hopefully a thicker seal will work 🤞
Long time now but how did you get on? Having the same issue on my sprinter@@menditman2004
Thanks for video btw .. this must reduce the smokey exhaust and give more efficient power correct ?
Yes, this is all about achieving *zero* leakage from the cylinder via the injector seal.
Where can I buy the reaming set in the video?
barker523 Amazon, eBay and others.
Super!