It also need to be on good fuel basically everyone making 800+ is on race fuel or e85. People need to understand when they start throwing out these numbers these cars can take.
I'm using a gen 3 in stock form , 6 speed , independent suspension on all 4 corners in my 1954 F100, everyday on southern California freeways . I couldn't be happier.
No mustang here (yet) I love the fact that you have great content that helps those of us who are looking for a mustang. The info from this video is super helpful to this car chick.
@@169abr there is plenty of gen 1 engines making 650 to 700 wheel it depends on fuel used and the tune you have and how you drive the car. 600 is a pretty safe number to hit even on the "fragile " gen 1. Funny how ppl criticize gen 1 now but in 2011 it was amazing a stock gt motor could make over 600 whp safely all day every day. Just because gen 2 is better dont mean gen 1 is bad. Theyre not just gonna pop at 600 wheel if everything is right on it.
@@BradBrown95 they can make it maybe once, then explode, but Gen 1 isn’t as stout as Gen 2 or 3 motors are. Yea you can get a good tune and the best fuel possible but the stock Gen 1 engine just isn’t as good as a Gen 2 or 3.
For safety and longevity, the general answer is around 750HP at the crank and around 7500rpm (with boss 302 or 2ed gen and up valve springs). Although the Coyote is plenty stoute from the factory it still has its limits. The main issues are connecting rods/rod bolts, the block, itself, eventually the pistons, and sometimes the oil pump. The coyote uses hypereutectic pistons, powdered metal rods, and a forged crankshaft. Upgrading to forged pistons, stronger H or I beam rods, and reusing the stock crank will handle over 1000HP depending on how good the rods are. 1st and 2ed gen use very thin cylinder liners that are known to crack under higher pressure and heat, esp boosted, so replacing them with more traditional, thicker liners adds a ton of strength to the block. This can also be done to a 3rd gen block. If you're doing all that it's a good idea to change out the oil pump to a bellet one as those have been know to basically explode, especially with belt driven superchargers, possibly something to do with crank harmonics. Another issue is Ford started the Coyote with very long, 12mm head bolts that tied deep into the block, down into the main webbing, the strongest part of the block. Some later Coyote blocks used much shorter 11mm bolts that end about where the knock sensor bosses are in the valley. This can lead to cracking issues in the at area with high boost. The good news is a 11mm block can be converted to 12mm. People who've done all that have taken these motors over well over 1000hp. I think MMR is pushing 3000hp with a proper bottom end and reinforced block.
@@tomspecht4733 The cheapest option if building from scratch is probably to start with an early f150 block, buy a set of 2ed gen heads and gaskets, cams, chains, sprockets, ect (you cannot mix and match generations of timing components) and 3rd gen intake manifold from Ford or whoever. This basically gives you the best of the 3 generations without getting into direct injection or the crazy expensive gt350 stuff. This combination will be a little over 400hp and run on regular fuel (trucks had lower compression) just be really sure the cylinders are in good shape as they can't be bored. Darton sleeves can cost over 1000 parts and labor but can be bored.
@@tomspecht4733 The 2ed gen has significantly better heads and moderately higher lift cams but I would disagree that the 2ed gen block is better. Most, if not nearly all, of the 2ed gen blocks used 11mm head bolts which were weaker in high boost/horsepower applications. The 12mm bolts where a little thicker and much longer, tying into the main webbing deep in the block rather than the bottom of the water jackets which are known to crack under high boost. Again, ideally if this is a high power combo a 12mm block with 2ed gen heads and cams with a 3rd gen intake is about the best all around without getting into thd really expensive stuff. 1000 bucks for 2 coyote engines is a hell of deal, almost too goo to be true imo, but even with all 1st gen stuff it will make probably double the power 6cylinder did, maybe more. For 5k I'd get the truck engine and add 2ed gen heads, cams, 3rd gen intake and do a billet oil pump for a little cheap insurance.
@@tomspecht4733 Let me put it this way, I paid $2500 like 4 years ago for a 2011 f150 coyote pullout. 1000 for two even with issues is a really good deal. A cracking timing case? If so that's nothing. Replacement timing case (you'll want the one for the mustang) is cheap. A dead hole is more of an issue as it depends why dead. As long as the cylinder past the liner is still good worse case you can resleeve that cylinder or the whole block and save it. If not even the f150 heads are worth something to a guy wanting to build them for racing.
Just ordered the ESS Tuning Procharger Kit for my Gen 2 6speed Coyote. It’s currently a FBO Ported 18+ mani E85 car. Talked the guys over at ESS about my power goals. Very good chance that my car will make 700whp on a smaller pulley and E85. I’m pumped!
@@kaz7175 i got longtubes , offroad x pipe, roush mufflers, with a vortech supercharger its also dyno tuned if had this setup for 3 years now with no major issues i also dont beat on the car
I have a 2011 Cali special with 7,000 miles. The plan right now is to supercharge it and make around 650-7 wheel. I don’t see myself needing or wanting more than that... but I know that always changes.
New to the mustang and everytime i look up info about them your channel is the first one that comes up and I learn alot about them. And how much they can handle thanks for all the info probably getting a 2013 mustang 5.0 v8 California Special soon and your channels are helping out thanks
I have a 2005 3v Mustang. I work at a Ford dealership and just picked up a coyote that came out of a 2012 GT. I plan on setting it up for 600whp max as a streetable car. Thanks for the input.
I would be content with 550-600hp in my Gen1. I want to keep the motor NA, and just Have fun racing friends on the track. It’s going to be track build for fun, but at the same I can daily it, when I want.
I have gen 1 with Paxton Novi 2200sl. I'm making 678 rwhp. Very happy with it. Drives great and power is always there when i need it to gab scat packs, corvettes and many other cars. I don't think I'll up the power unless I rebuild the engine. 👍👍💰💰
Gen 1 mustang, mt82, in a 61 f100. My goal is 400 plus whp. Plans right now are 18 manifold, stock tb, long tube headers/full exhaust, CAI, and a tune from Lund. From what I have seen this combo typically yields 420/430 whp which is fine by me. Long term maybe cams, and gen 2 heads. I’m not going to boost my motor. Doing oil pump gears for peace of mind. When the MT82 goes I will likely just use my core and have it built.
I just got my 2011 5.0. I love my car, I'm looking to race and do some shows with it. My goal is to make it a 7 second street car. The reason for that is because people say it can't be done.
Dope video Jacob! I would like around 6-650 wheel from a Paxton sc. I want to beat up on some 😈Mopars 😈on ground level and bring it to the likes of Porsche and the rest of the bully’s on some mountain twisties.
I keep being told a Gen 1 sleeved with forged internals is better than a gen 3 with only forged internals, gen 1 1000-1200whp and gen 3 between 1000-1400whp .. of course it varies. I'm only gonna sleeve the block if it isn't showing signs of cracking, otherwise probably get a gen 2 engine and heads and throw internals in it, only looking for 850whp on pump, which is more than possible with a forged bottom end. but with a bov and some higher boost, i've seen a forged internal only gen 2 car run almost 1000whp and it's running great.... so maybe I need to rethink a few things :D
I have a gen 2 2015 coyote. Looking to go N/A for longevity. The mods I’m getting ready to go with is a 2018 ported manifold, 47 pound injectors. SCT tuner and possibly 4:10’s or 30’s in gears. I’m already rockin long tubes, h-pipe and open cat back. If can get 500 with a good tune to the wheels, that’s great for me and still safe.
I have a 95 GT planning on doing a gen 3 coyote turbo swap since the motor in it now is original and has over 350k miles figured I’d see opinions on coyote motors since this is my first mustang (dad gave it to me in his will)….I’ve been driving a MK4 Supra for the last 6 years and have been into tuners until now…thanks for the advice
The biggest issue with the stock coyotes with power adders are ringland failure.. stock top ring gap is .011 which ends up closing and butting them together and blowing them up, not the rods in most cases like everyone says.
I have a 14 GT, I want around 700hp. I want to be able to take on just about anything on the street, but mostly, there is a guy at work with a ZL1 that I really want to beat. I'm planning a built short block eventually, funny enough from Modular Headshop, and I'll crank it up to probably around 800-850 after that just for fun at the track.
So to answer your question at the end, I have a Gen 1 2013 GT. My goal is 550-600 whp. My reasoning behind it is that it's fun enough to be wild but low enough to be safe and not extremely expensive. Maybe more down the line but for now that would be plenty. It is currently stock with Corsa exhaust and cat delete 377 whp. It's still super fun but I can definitely see me wanting more later on. Thanks for the videos.
I got a 2014 mustang gt with the gen 1 coyote. But I just want to run between 600-700 horsepower. Enough to have fun and then race when someone gets cocky
I have a gen2 that makes 892whp. Didn’t have a hp goal. I built the engine because procharger tuning sucks and cost me a engine. I figured if I’m gonna build it I may as well build it.
I have a 2013 gen 1 coyote. I would like to make 500 rwhp. I do not want to open the engine. I have added a performance mag meter, a k/n black widow air box, and a set x4 tune w/93 octane. I have the auto trans. The car has 10000 miles on it. How close am I and what can I do to get there. Art, Naples, Florida.
My ideal power goal is mild. I want to keep it a daily driver and comfortable touring car. I have a Candy Red Metallic Gen 1 2013 GT Premium convertible that I picked up three months ago with only 11,500 miles! It’s still brand new! It was a one-owner vehicle. Literally a 79 yr old dentist from North Dakota that only took it out on Sundays in the summertime. 😊 So far I’ve done a moderately loud axle-back exhaust, K&N Blackhawk CAI, new black GT500 wheels. I blacked out the side and rear lights and all chrome emblems. Oh! And I replaced the lame center console radio and climate controls with the nice aftermarket touchscreen Nav from Dynavin! Love that! About the only things left are painting the calipers and window tinting.
Gen2 2.65l tvs currently making 735rwhp/567lbs ft trq on 93 parts on the way dual pump return style fuel system 2000hp axles pulleying down going e85 looking for 800+rwhp on my daily. Sons gen 3 pro charged goes 9.6 in the quarter mile. Trying to keep up! Lol! Good information you are spot on. Given you upgrade the oil pump gear and crank shaft sprocket.
For a guy that wants to appear to know the Yote motor well. I'm 12:45 into the video and I haven't heard you mention one word about the cast oil pump gears. Those are much more at risk than the rods. Guys have swapped over to the billet gears on stock motors if they do track days or drag race often. Most say @ 550 hp you should consider making the change. To follow a safe theme if you increase the hp then change them. You are placing a lot of stress on the stock cast gears. Making the change is cheap insurance for the rest of the mods down the road. And the stock crank is forged steel a step up from that is a billet steel. None of the Yotes use a cast crank
I used to have a 2013 GT Convertible and I slapped a procharger and had 3.73's at the rear. I had P1SC HO kit had 6 lbs of boost. It had 625 crank hp. The car ran 12s all day and not one engine issue at all. The problem I did have was electric issues with the tail lights. If you don't kill it on the boost any gen coyote can handle low boost. I wouldn't go past 6 lbs if stock. I wanna say the gen 2 had a forged crank if I'm not mistaken. I had a gen 2 for like 2 months so I couldn't do anything to that motor. But, from what I know from a few shops is sleeve the coyote with forged eternals and the engine is pretty much bullet proof. Main thing if your a guy who just wants to keep the engine stock drop a 3.73 gear in the rear and your Mustang will wake up quick.
I have a gen-2 coyote looking to have at least 750-800 rwh. This is my retirement 2017 GT and I would like to put it on the track some times. Adding the Hellion sleeper kit on the bottom with a tremec T-56 transmission and lowering springs. And then I have a convertible V-8 2006 GT, I have ported heads, lowering springs sway bars front and back, new radiator not sure if I will put a tremec transmission and will also put a hellion sleeper kit on it with a new fuel kit and more etc. As a child my neighbor had a long neck hot rod I called them. He had the skinny tires and the fat tires on the back. Going back to my childhood time and to just enjoy what I can now that God has blessed me to do after the military.
hello, my name is Ben, in short, found a 2012 mustang at Carmax, 20 grand, seemed to be extra powerful on test drive, bought, got home, put on jack stands, sooooo, by part #s on engine, tranny, suspension, torsion bars, etc..... i have a 2018 Gen3 built(idk how much), MT82 tranny, carbon fiber drive shaft, idk-gears in differential. I dropped clutch at 7000rpm few times, (it has this ultra quiet exhaust on it) little tuner i bought topped at at 500 hp, dont know y this car was at carmax but i am super happy, anyway yes i have left several mustangs and 1 z06 corvette about 3 car distances behind while driving to work(after first sorta race these club guys were waiting for me to pass and we raced from traffic light outside gas station) anyhow, i always back off at 80-90 mph in 3rd gear cause that all i needed to beat them and dont want ticket.. how do i find out just what my little beast is, as in displacement and such, i am truck driver, do mechanical work on side, but not a racer but luv hot looking sports cars as we all do.
I am looking for 450-500 HP... NA. This is an autocross/track day car and I need linear power that is easily controlled. You talked a little about the BG "fix", did it help with lock out? The Boss gets to 6.8-7k and will lock the shifter out until the revs drop below 6500
i have a 2019 Mustang GT Premium obviously Gen3 and up to this point (2 months in to purchasing it preowned 23K miles) ive only done aesthetic stuff, 30mm eiback spacers for wheels, changed all rear lights to MP Concepts shadowed out LED lights including replacing the rear diffuser reflectors to actual LED lights, installed an illuminated GT logo (rear) hardwired through OBD port Front and rear dash cam and then had a stripe wrap put on after i installed the GT350R spoiler (had that wrapped as well). as for POWER… i’m not sure but 650 to the wheel sounds good to me for the same reasons u mentioned. now i have taken this to the track but i think i’m not so much into the the 10-12 turns it had but rather id like to get it on a drag strip amd go for 1/4 miles times for fun. so i don’t want to limit my goal to 650 but i’m def saving up to get there.
2007 Mustang GT/CS 4.6 3V Vista Blue. Would love to just have a fun street car with healthy but safe amount of boost. Love the sound of a supercharger whine.
Ok so my 14 C/S Gen 1 is bone stock internals. I have Boundary OPGs on my Hellion Twin Turbo which is Lund Tuned. I have fuel injectors which are 95lb and a boost a pump on 93octane. This was a stock stick car that made 626hp on 6psi. I then turned the car up to 10psi and it made 753 wheel HP. I questioned it and made another pull and it made 748 wheel HP. I have a Hellion Header Setup with a Kooks cat delete X pipe. The car is now a Turbo400 on a Neal Chance Converter. I also have Strange axles in the rear. I’m telling you guys you still make jam with a Gen1 and it live.
I have a stock 2013 5.0 and I think all want is a 3.73 gears and a boss 302 intake and that it’s. Nothing to crazy cuz I do daily drive it. But if somebody was to pull up and I can be able to hang a lil bit lol
I drive a manual 2014 GT with a Boss 302 intake manifold, steeda CAI and 3.53 gears. Of course with Eibach pro coil over suspension, BMR front and rear beefy swaybars, Exedy Mach 500 clutch, 8 bolt lightweight flywheel and controlled with a Barton short throw shifter with two mounting brackets. Wheels front are 255/35/r19 and back at 285/35/r19. I can shred most european cars on the track.
I really am close to picking up a gen 1 s197, when I do, I wanna go 500-600, enough to have fun, daily, and still be completely legal, and stay safe. Awesome educational, and simple explanation video!
I have a 2021 mustang gt. Want to be around 750 to 800 wheel horsepower safe and reliably. Thought I was gonna have to do rods, pistons, oil pump gears, valves, and valve springs but this seems to disclaim all that?
3v for the win. i love my 3v. cammed, longtube headers, muffler delete, catted x pipe, tuned. not sure the power on here but for what it is she’s quick.
Looking to get gen 1 2013-2014 in the next year ! Power goal is definitely about 600. I want it fast but drivable. I want to build a mustang family (s550 gt and gt350 or 500)
Gen 1 2014 Mustang Haven't been on the dyno yet, installed a Paxton Novi 2200, tuned by Lund Racing. They estimated 650-680 at the tires and it pulls like it has that much lol. I'm good at the power level for now. Next is build the bottom end, fuel system, E85 and pulley down. Then send it😈😈
@@negativesplits06 small world lol, i see you on Alex live streams. I'm on a 3.6 pulley, long tubes, FF😉, pump 93 for now. What pulley did you have for the 695?
2013 gen 1. Mods are cobra jet intake, throttle body, cold air, Stainless Works LT headers, X pipe and GT500 exhaust. Currently have 435 whp. Looking for a gen 1 n/a beast at 500 whp. Cams are in the future to get me there.
2014 F150 fx2/ gen 3 whipple 4" pulley/ 3.31 gear with 22" wheels/ VAS traction bars (in back seat) and a dead miss on an oiled down #7 cylinder. Guesstimate is 550rwhp. I'd like to see 1k/850ish to wheels and the hardest part is done. Temp motor will be here on Christmas eve and original will go on a stand. 6-800 in forged internals and hardware will hopefully get me strong enough to beat on it and not hurt it.
Just got my 2021 Mach 1 with handling package. I won't do it for at least 2-3 years, but eventually I may do an ESS supercharger. Not looking to do anything crazy, but maybe 650-750whp
Hey Jacob I have a 2014 saleen white label but its black it's got some upgrades already from saleen,I installed oil catch can,roush cold air intake resonators deleted,nmbr axlebacks on her, installed mbr lower control arms from saleen 440 at crank so I'm prob around 450 too 460 at crank, now just want a one piece aluminum driveshaft and get her dyno tuned and that's enough for me lol, thanks again jacob
I have a 2015 gen 2 coyote and I would be happy with 800 wheel with a super charger but so far I’m only at 420 to the wheel and I already feel like it’s slow lol I wanna double the number and I know the car could do it safely, maybe one day she’ll get a blower but until then I still love the car
Gen2 is basically the roadrunner engine from the boss. The rods are forged in the gen 2. Larger valves , heavier valve springs , etc…. My 2015 Roush stage 3 is now a 750 whp for 2yrs now without issue. And a daily driver.
93 fox, gen 2, twin 6266 precision. Goals are 730 whp on 91 octane and 850/900 on e85. I would lower the power for the street but I need 8 PSI springs in the wastegates to be able to adjust it up to 16 PSI on the controller. And remember the engine holds those numbers but the transmissions are another story 😄
Actually I know alot of people with billet input shafts and stock 6r80 making 1000hp. 850/900 is pushing it. No matter what they tell you the stock rods are still a powder rod so trying to make more than 800hp is pushing it. Yes you can make 850-900 honestly people making 1000hp but you know those engines are on borrowed time because it will eventually take its toll without a fully forged rod and piston setup.
I’m at 741 rear-wheel hp on my Gen1 motor has new setup cobra jet mani, ProCharged D1X on e85 I know I’m pushing the motor to its limit but surprisingly it’s still holding strong.
I think not having the low end torque hit and also having good fuel (e85) is probably helping to make it continue to live. Fuel is big when it comes to longevity with big power
@@Jamie-ww3yz next car I get is going to be all wheel drive. Not being able to put the power down is very annoying. Once they release a affordable absurdly fast electric sports coupe with high range I think I’m done with internal combustion though
I don't have a mustang yet, I'm saving up to buy a '14 gt as my second car and coming from a car that has 150hp crank, I think the 420hp will do fine for at least a few years. After that I'm sure I'll want more but to be honest, I think 420hp is enough to have enough fun without getting into any major trouble or being too dangerous.
You’re pretty spot on dude, my first car was a 2005 Eclipse GT, and now I’m in a 2012 5.0, speed is definitely not going to be an issue for me for a while.
i’m surprised oil pump gears weren’t brought up at all. any coyote with a power adder like a super charger or turbos need oil pump gears. any gen any year, oil pump gears
I have a 2012 GT. Like you said,around 650 RWHP is the safe limit,(because of the weak/non-forged connecting rods) and you can’t really use anymore than that on the street anyway!
I have a 2018 Gen 3 that I daily, but enjoy the occasional track day running the road courses. One thing you didnt talk about was the upgraded MT82-D4 trans, which I have. Ideally, I would love the option to run 93 or E85 as available, and want to build to around 750-850whp eventually. Tired of getting passed by some kid in a stripped down Honda at the track. Have been looking at brake, suspension, tire and other upgrades as well to match the power. Still under warranty, so holding off a bit.
Me and you are in the same exact boat. The warranty is killing me but I can't just throw it away. I'm currently looking into the Ford Performance Power Pack 2 and Power Pack 3 so I can still keep my warranty.
Was on the phone to brenspeed the other day and they said safe limit for a gen 1 coyote is 600 Wheel horse power. Also said the worse thing to do is stay on the boost to long.
You know my build...NA, all motor I'm out in AZ. Its 105 everyday and some days 115 to 120. No joke. I have raced guys claiming that they were in 650 range for HP. I dont know if that was wheel or flywheel?.?.?. However I dont really feel as though I'm being affected by the heat as much as forced induction guys were. Mostly because I beat a few of them. At 460 rear wheel. And after we BS about our cars and they poped the hood and sure enough, they were supercharged. Not to mention my build also Taylor's to road race. I did not want to overpower the S197 chassis. I wanted a ballence. And be able to run at extended track lap counts. I.E. 5, 10, 15, laps without worrying about heat soaking. That's also why I went to a Stage 3 AMP trans build, Barton Hybrid 3 shifter, Ford Racing 1 piece drive shaft, McLeod race spec flywheel and street extream clutch. My current build is expected to dyno between 530 and 550 rear wheel. Not only will I not worry about Hellcats on the street, I'm not overpowering the car with Toolman Taylor ridiculous power.
Bro quit lying to urself.. 550 whp my ass thats not possible unless ur gen 3 with full bolt ons and e85 even then i doubt it any hellcat will shit on u lol not talking shit just basic facts numbers done lie
My MT82 has taken a beating for 65k miles, still have the stock shifter too. I have a Boss intake, exhaust and a tune. I honestly think some people are trying to speed shift and let the clutch out before it's fully in gear. Also dumping the clutch is a killer. While I don't necessarily LIKE the MT82 but it'll last if you don't do dumb shit to it.
Had to watch. The steering wheel you have in your car I want in my 07 Shelby gt500 do you know where I can get one that has the looks of yours but from 05-09 Mustang?
I have the gen2 in my 17f150 fx4. I had the rousch stage 2 kit with exhaust and cold air intake done to it. Id like to go faster and would like to know what i can do besides adding headers and a bigger throttle body. Id like to get to 500 whp. Adding a supercharger isnt doable right now tho. Which is the best headers for the gen2?
Gen 1 but definitely building it for twin turbos in the future and wanna make it a dedicated drag street build looking for 1000 hp because every car out there if it’s not 1000hp now it’s slow compared to all the cars out there racing.
I have an 87 camaro, I have no clue why I watched this but I enjoyed it
Same here. I have a 2014 charger rt And I've been binge watching his videos since yesterday, they're just so entertaining. 😅 lol
Hell yeah brother I’ve got myself an 85 camaro
Hey as a s197 owner we invite y’all too watch !
I feel sorry for all of u
@@S2KCYA ??
900whp is by no means “safe” for a Gen2. If you want a Gen2 to live for a long time, 800whp is a safer number. Some pop @ 850whp.
It also need to be on good fuel basically everyone making 800+ is on race fuel or e85. People need to understand when they start throwing out these numbers these cars can take.
900 wheel isn’t “safe” on any motor. just because a car can make it on a dyno doesn’t mean it’ll last for thousands of miles and pulls
Is it safer on a gen 3 ?
@@cloudrehzii no if anything gen2 is slightly better than gen 3 imo but they're basically the same as far as stock bottom end power potential imo.
@@midnight347 why is that? Is it because the gen 2 is sleeved or is it because of other reasons ? Can’t find answers to that
750-800 Gen 2. Not concerned with getting there anytime soon, but driving a Mustang, everyone wants to try you😅. I can't get dusted by a BMW 😒
Facts I feel that 😂
Can the auto transmission handle it?
I'm using a gen 3 in stock form , 6 speed , independent suspension on all 4 corners in my 1954 F100, everyday on southern California freeways . I couldn't be happier.
No mustang here (yet) I love the fact that you have great content that helps those of us who are looking for a mustang. The info from this video is super helpful to this car chick.
Gen 1 coyote power goal 650-700whp simply to be the hellcat slayer
Get a gen 2 short block and never even worry about it. Those gen 1 rods yeet themselves after about 600whp.
@@169abr there is plenty of gen 1 engines making 650 to 700 wheel it depends on fuel used and the tune you have and how you drive the car. 600 is a pretty safe number to hit even on the "fragile " gen 1. Funny how ppl criticize gen 1 now but in 2011 it was amazing a stock gt motor could make over 600 whp safely all day every day. Just because gen 2 is better dont mean gen 1 is bad. Theyre not just gonna pop at 600 wheel if everything is right on it.
Coyotes eat cats.
@@169abr they can make up 2000hp just TH-cam it
@@BradBrown95 they can make it maybe once, then explode, but Gen 1 isn’t as stout as Gen 2 or 3 motors are. Yea you can get a good tune and the best fuel possible but the stock Gen 1 engine just isn’t as good as a Gen 2 or 3.
For safety and longevity, the general answer is around 750HP at the crank and around 7500rpm (with boss 302 or 2ed gen and up valve springs). Although the Coyote is plenty stoute from the factory it still has its limits. The main issues are connecting rods/rod bolts, the block, itself, eventually the pistons, and sometimes the oil pump. The coyote uses hypereutectic pistons, powdered metal rods, and a forged crankshaft. Upgrading to forged pistons, stronger H or I beam rods, and reusing the stock crank will handle over 1000HP depending on how good the rods are. 1st and 2ed gen use very thin cylinder liners that are known to crack under higher pressure and heat, esp boosted, so replacing them with more traditional, thicker liners adds a ton of strength to the block. This can also be done to a 3rd gen block. If you're doing all that it's a good idea to change out the oil pump to a bellet one as those have been know to basically explode, especially with belt driven superchargers, possibly something to do with crank harmonics. Another issue is Ford started the Coyote with very long, 12mm head bolts that tied deep into the block, down into the main webbing, the strongest part of the block. Some later Coyote blocks used much shorter 11mm bolts that end about where the knock sensor bosses are in the valley. This can lead to cracking issues in the at area with high boost. The good news is a 11mm block can be converted to 12mm.
People who've done all that have taken these motors over well over 1000hp. I think MMR is pushing 3000hp with a proper bottom end and reinforced block.
@@tomspecht4733
The cheapest option if building from scratch is probably to start with an early f150 block, buy a set of 2ed gen heads and gaskets, cams, chains, sprockets, ect (you cannot mix and match generations of timing components) and 3rd gen intake manifold from Ford or whoever. This basically gives you the best of the 3 generations without getting into direct injection or the crazy expensive gt350 stuff. This combination will be a little over 400hp and run on regular fuel (trucks had lower compression) just be really sure the cylinders are in good shape as they can't be bored.
Darton sleeves can cost over 1000 parts and labor but can be bored.
@@tomspecht4733
The 2ed gen has significantly better heads and moderately higher lift cams but I would disagree that the 2ed gen block is better. Most, if not nearly all, of the 2ed gen blocks used 11mm head bolts which were weaker in high boost/horsepower applications. The 12mm bolts where a little thicker and much longer, tying into the main webbing deep in the block rather than the bottom of the water jackets which are known to crack under high boost.
Again, ideally if this is a high power combo a 12mm block with 2ed gen heads and cams with a 3rd gen intake is about the best all around without getting into thd really expensive stuff.
1000 bucks for 2 coyote engines is a hell of deal, almost too goo to be true imo, but even with all 1st gen stuff it will make probably double the power 6cylinder did, maybe more.
For 5k I'd get the truck engine and add 2ed gen heads, cams, 3rd gen intake and do a billet oil pump for a little cheap insurance.
@@tomspecht4733
Let me put it this way, I paid $2500 like 4 years ago for a 2011 f150 coyote pullout.
1000 for two even with issues is a really good deal.
A cracking timing case? If so that's nothing. Replacement timing case (you'll want the one for the mustang) is cheap.
A dead hole is more of an issue as it depends why dead. As long as the cylinder past the liner is still good worse case you can resleeve that cylinder or the whole block and save it. If not even the f150 heads are worth something to a guy wanting to build them for racing.
@@tomspecht4733 It's possible. Hopefully they're both salvageable. 👍
Additional Coyote mod I keep hearing to add with power adders or increased RPM is oil pump gears.
not needed.
Just ordered the ESS Tuning Procharger Kit for my Gen 2 6speed Coyote. It’s currently a FBO Ported 18+ mani E85 car. Talked the guys over at ESS about my power goals. Very good chance that my car will make 700whp on a smaller pulley and E85. I’m pumped!
I have a 2012 gen 1, I have 475 whp now
Love to be 650 whp, just nice to go hellcat/chev hunting once in a while 😊
Im sticking with my 600whp on my gen 1 its plenty of power you can pretty much take most things on the street and its a safe number
What’s your setup like? And how long has it been holding up?
@@kaz7175 i got longtubes , offroad x pipe, roush mufflers, with a vortech supercharger its also dyno tuned if had this setup for 3 years now with no major issues i also dont beat on the car
I have a 2011 Cali special with 7,000 miles. The plan right now is to supercharge it and make around 650-7 wheel. I don’t see myself needing or wanting more than that... but I know that always changes.
Hey man , it’s been a while now did u supercharge it?
New to the mustang and everytime i look up info about them your channel is the first one that comes up and I learn alot about them. And how much they can handle thanks for all the info probably getting a 2013 mustang 5.0 v8 California Special soon and your channels are helping out thanks
5:39 is when he finally gets to the point.
I have a 2005 3v Mustang. I work at a Ford dealership and just picked up a coyote that came out of a 2012 GT. I plan on setting it up for 600whp max as a streetable car. Thanks for the input.
I would be content with 550-600hp in my Gen1. I want to keep the motor NA, and just Have fun racing friends on the track. It’s going to be track build for fun, but at the same I can daily it, when I want.
I have gen 1 with Paxton Novi 2200sl. I'm making 678 rwhp. Very happy with it. Drives great and power is always there when i need it to gab scat packs, corvettes and many other cars. I don't think I'll up the power unless I rebuild the engine. 👍👍💰💰
What pulley and what other mods are you running on it? Just got a Paxton as well, doing the OPG's right now
Gen 1 mustang, mt82, in a 61 f100. My goal is 400 plus whp. Plans right now are 18 manifold, stock tb, long tube headers/full exhaust, CAI, and a tune from Lund. From what I have seen this combo typically yields 420/430 whp which is fine by me. Long term maybe cams, and gen 2 heads. I’m not going to boost my motor. Doing oil pump gears for peace of mind. When the MT82 goes I will likely just use my core and have it built.
I just got my 2011 5.0. I love my car, I'm looking to race and do some shows with it. My goal is to make it a 7 second street car. The reason for that is because people say it can't be done.
7 second street car...good luck with that..get your wallet out 😂
Dope video Jacob! I would like around 6-650 wheel from a Paxton sc. I want to beat up on some 😈Mopars 😈on ground level and bring it to the likes of Porsche and the rest of the bully’s on some mountain twisties.
I’ll stick to my 500hp 3v it’s fun 🔥💪🏾
what are your mods bro?
@@kennethgarcia9398 probably procharged. That's basically the only way a stock engine 3v will hold 500
I keep being told a Gen 1 sleeved with forged internals is better than a gen 3 with only forged internals, gen 1 1000-1200whp and gen 3 between 1000-1400whp .. of course it varies.
I'm only gonna sleeve the block if it isn't showing signs of cracking, otherwise probably get a gen 2 engine and heads and throw internals in it, only looking for 850whp on pump, which is more than possible with a forged bottom end. but with a bov and some higher boost, i've seen a forged internal only gen 2 car run almost 1000whp and it's running great.... so maybe I need to rethink a few things :D
I got a 2014 5.0 California special and I'd like 650 also. Just to compete with hellcats. Great video bro 🇺🇸
Is the engine internals different than the GT ?
I have a gen 2 2015 coyote. Looking to go N/A for longevity. The mods I’m getting ready to go with is a 2018 ported manifold, 47 pound injectors. SCT tuner and possibly 4:10’s or 30’s in gears. I’m already rockin long tubes, h-pipe and open cat back. If can get 500 with a good tune to the wheels, that’s great for me and still safe.
I'm at 837 rwhp on the Gen2 motor in my 2013 GT w/ E85 & Roush blower :) It's my DD and probably no upcoming track time any time soon.
Wow! That's a badass car! I have big dreams for my S550 but I'm waiting to get a little more miles on it before I destroy my warranty.
Darryl Polite hahah same here. Once I pass 48K its all down hill from there ;)
Still holding up reliably?
My Gen 1 GT/CS is forged internally from a valve going kaput, so I'm going for about 850-900. Stupid fast, still pretty drivable.
Can you plse list the set up? Sleeves, pistons, rods??? Valves, cams etc??? I have the same car (love it) and want to build it, thanks!
I don't think the CS internals are different than the GT ?
I have a 95 GT planning on doing a gen 3 coyote turbo swap since the motor in it now is original and has over 350k miles figured I’d see opinions on coyote motors since this is my first mustang (dad gave it to me in his will)….I’ve been driving a MK4 Supra for the last 6 years and have been into tuners until now…thanks for the advice
The biggest issue with the stock coyotes with power adders are ringland failure.. stock top ring gap is .011 which ends up closing and butting them together and blowing them up, not the rods in most cases like everyone says.
So are you saying to upgrade piston rings?
@@freznostate I’m saying the factory gap is too tight and just needs to be opened up
I’ve been kicking around an early gen 1 coyote coupe, with a single 76mm turbo turned up about 900whp on corn and maybe 550-600whp on pump gas.
I have a 14 GT, I want around 700hp. I want to be able to take on just about anything on the street, but mostly, there is a guy at work with a ZL1 that I really want to beat. I'm planning a built short block eventually, funny enough from Modular Headshop, and I'll crank it up to probably around 800-850 after that just for fun at the track.
Send him my way, I’ll beat him for you
So to answer your question at the end, I have a Gen 1 2013 GT. My goal is 550-600 whp. My reasoning behind it is that it's fun enough to be wild but low enough to be safe and not extremely expensive. Maybe more down the line but for now that would be plenty. It is currently stock with Corsa exhaust and cat delete 377 whp. It's still super fun but I can definitely see me wanting more later on. Thanks for the videos.
I have gen 1 2013 GT as well. I’m thinking later down the line I’ll swap it for a gen 3 and ad a stage 3 whipple
I have a 2011 Mustang Gt, my power goal is 550, I want my car to be real reliable and 412 hp already feels like a lot
Buy my whipple 2.3, my base run was 385, after the install and JLT big air 588
@@mr171009 thanks, I’ll look into it
I got a 2014 mustang gt with the gen 1 coyote. But I just want to run between 600-700 horsepower. Enough to have fun and then race when someone gets cocky
I have a gen2 that makes 892whp. Didn’t have a hp goal. I built the engine because procharger tuning sucks and cost me a engine. I figured if I’m gonna build it I may as well build it.
I have a 2013 gen 1 coyote. I would like to make 500 rwhp. I do not want to open the engine. I have added a performance mag meter, a k/n black widow air box, and a set x4 tune w/93 octane. I have the auto trans. The car has 10000 miles on it. How close am I and what can I do to get there. Art, Naples, Florida.
My ideal power goal is mild. I want to keep it a daily driver and comfortable touring car. I have a Candy Red Metallic Gen 1 2013 GT Premium convertible that I picked up three months ago with only 11,500 miles! It’s still brand new! It was a one-owner vehicle. Literally a 79 yr old dentist from North Dakota that only took it out on Sundays in the summertime. 😊 So far I’ve done a moderately loud axle-back exhaust, K&N Blackhawk CAI, new black GT500 wheels. I blacked out the side and rear lights and all chrome emblems. Oh! And I replaced the lame center console radio and climate controls with the nice aftermarket touchscreen Nav from Dynavin! Love that! About the only things left are painting the calipers and window tinting.
I have a gen 1 coyote 140,000 miles should I supercharge it will it still be reliable and what should I upgrade on it
Gen2 2.65l tvs currently making 735rwhp/567lbs ft trq on 93 parts on the way dual pump return style fuel system 2000hp axles pulleying down going e85 looking for 800+rwhp on my daily. Sons gen 3 pro charged goes 9.6 in the quarter mile. Trying to keep up! Lol! Good information you are spot on. Given you upgrade the oil pump gear and crank shaft sprocket.
For a guy that wants to appear to know the Yote motor well. I'm 12:45 into the video and I haven't heard you mention one word about the cast oil pump gears. Those are much more at risk than the rods. Guys have swapped over to the billet gears on stock motors if they do track days or drag race often. Most say @ 550 hp you should consider making the change. To follow a safe theme if you increase the hp then change them. You are placing a lot of stress on the stock cast gears. Making the change is cheap insurance for the rest of the mods down the road. And the stock crank is forged steel a step up from that is a billet steel. None of the Yotes use a cast crank
I used to have a 2013 GT Convertible and I slapped a procharger and had 3.73's at the rear. I had P1SC HO kit had 6 lbs of boost. It had 625 crank hp. The car ran 12s all day and not one engine issue at all. The problem I did have was electric issues with the tail lights. If you don't kill it on the boost any gen coyote can handle low boost. I wouldn't go past 6 lbs if stock. I wanna say the gen 2 had a forged crank if I'm not mistaken. I had a gen 2 for like 2 months so I couldn't do anything to that motor. But, from what I know from a few shops is sleeve the coyote with forged eternals and the engine is pretty much bullet proof. Main thing if your a guy who just wants to keep the engine stock drop a 3.73 gear in the rear and your Mustang will wake up quick.
Was it automatic
I have a gen-2 coyote looking to have at least 750-800 rwh. This is my retirement 2017 GT and I would like to put it on the track some times. Adding the Hellion sleeper kit on the bottom with a tremec T-56 transmission and lowering springs. And then I have a convertible V-8 2006 GT, I have ported heads, lowering springs sway bars front and back, new radiator not sure if I will put a tremec transmission and will also put a hellion sleeper kit on it with a new fuel kit and more etc. As a child my neighbor had a long neck hot rod I called them. He had the skinny tires and the fat tires on the back. Going back to my childhood time and to just enjoy what I can now that God has blessed me to do after the military.
I've got a 13 and want 5-600 hp. It's my daily but love going to the track to have fun/therapy.
Will a e cam void my factory warranty and will my car benefit from it? 2021 six speed.
I have a challenger and still enjoyed this
I have a 2021 speed 5.0. I want a e cam to make it sound good.Will void my factory warranty? Will it add any performance?
Surprised u forgot about the oil pump gears. But overall great info thanks for sharing :)
I picked up a gen 1 coyote and my desired power would be around 620-640 whp
hello, my name is Ben, in short, found a 2012 mustang at Carmax, 20 grand, seemed to be extra powerful on test drive, bought, got home, put on jack stands, sooooo, by part #s on engine, tranny, suspension, torsion bars, etc..... i have a 2018 Gen3 built(idk how much), MT82 tranny, carbon fiber drive shaft, idk-gears in differential. I dropped clutch at 7000rpm few times, (it has this ultra quiet exhaust on it) little tuner i bought topped at at 500 hp, dont know y this car was at carmax but i am super happy, anyway yes i have left several mustangs and 1 z06 corvette about 3 car distances behind while driving to work(after first sorta race these club guys were waiting for me to pass and we raced from traffic light outside gas station) anyhow, i always back off at 80-90 mph in 3rd gear cause that all i needed to beat them and dont want ticket.. how do i find out just what my little beast is, as in displacement and such, i am truck driver, do mechanical work on side, but not a racer but luv hot looking sports cars as we all do.
I am looking for 450-500 HP... NA. This is an autocross/track day car and I need linear power that is easily controlled. You talked a little about the BG "fix", did it help with lock out? The Boss gets to 6.8-7k and will lock the shifter out until the revs drop below 6500
Oil pump gears will be fine as long as your not on a 2 step or bouncing off rev limiter.
14 first gen coyote. K&n and borla exhaust and lowered. I’d like to make 650hp but don’t know much about what’s already done to it. It’s a 6 speed
2012 gen 1 here! 500/600 would be ideal. Mainly a street cruiser.
How much power is the stock valve train good for on the coyotes?
i have a 2019 Mustang GT Premium obviously Gen3 and up to this point (2 months in to purchasing it preowned 23K miles) ive only done aesthetic stuff, 30mm eiback spacers for wheels, changed all rear lights to MP Concepts shadowed out LED lights including replacing the rear diffuser reflectors to actual LED lights, installed an illuminated GT logo (rear) hardwired through OBD port Front and rear dash cam and then had a stripe wrap put on after i installed the GT350R spoiler (had that wrapped as well). as for POWER… i’m not sure but 650 to the wheel sounds good to me for the same reasons u mentioned. now i have taken this to the track but i think i’m not so much into the the 10-12 turns it had but rather id like to get it on a drag strip amd go for 1/4 miles times for fun. so i don’t want to limit my goal to 650 but i’m def saving up to get there.
2007 Mustang GT/CS 4.6 3V Vista Blue. Would love to just have a fun street car with healthy but safe amount of boost. Love the sound of a supercharger whine.
Ok so my 14 C/S Gen 1 is bone stock internals. I have Boundary OPGs on my Hellion Twin Turbo which is Lund Tuned. I have fuel injectors which are 95lb and a boost a pump on 93octane. This was a stock stick car that made 626hp on 6psi. I then turned the car up to 10psi and it made 753 wheel HP. I questioned it and made another pull and it made 748 wheel HP. I have a Hellion Header Setup with a Kooks cat delete X pipe. The car is now a Turbo400 on a Neal Chance Converter. I also have Strange axles in the rear. I’m telling you guys you still make jam with a Gen1 and it live.
I have a stock 2013 5.0 and I think all want is a 3.73 gears and a boss 302 intake and that it’s. Nothing to crazy cuz I do daily drive it. But if somebody was to pull up and I can be able to hang a lil bit lol
I drive a manual 2014 GT with a Boss 302 intake manifold, steeda CAI and 3.53 gears. Of course with Eibach pro coil over suspension, BMR front and rear beefy swaybars, Exedy Mach 500 clutch, 8 bolt lightweight flywheel and controlled with a Barton short throw shifter with two mounting brackets. Wheels front are 255/35/r19 and back at 285/35/r19. I can shred most european cars on the track.
I really am close to picking up a gen 1 s197, when I do, I wanna go 500-600, enough to have fun, daily, and still be completely legal, and stay safe. Awesome educational, and simple explanation video!
I have a 2021 mustang gt. Want to be around 750 to 800 wheel horsepower safe and reliably. Thought I was gonna have to do rods, pistons, oil pump gears, valves, and valve springs but this seems to disclaim all that?
3v for the win. i love my 3v. cammed, longtube headers, muffler delete, catted x pipe, tuned. not sure the power on here but for what it is she’s quick.
I have polarized prescription sunglasses and I completely forgot what glare was
Looking to get gen 1 2013-2014 in the next year ! Power goal is definitely about 600. I want it fast but drivable. I want to build a mustang family (s550 gt and gt350 or 500)
So if we’re talking longevity. Would a T56 be an ideal swap to fix the MT82 issue? Or just beef up the MT82?
Gen 1 2014 Mustang
Haven't been on the dyno yet, installed a Paxton Novi 2200, tuned by Lund Racing. They estimated 650-680 at the tires and it pulls like it has that much lol. I'm good at the power level for now. Next is build the bottom end, fuel system, E85 and pulley down. Then send it😈😈
I made 695whp when I had my Paxton on e85. Depends what pulley you have and other mods.
@@negativesplits06 small world lol, i see you on Alex live streams. I'm on a 3.6 pulley, long tubes, FF😉, pump 93 for now. What pulley did you have for the 695?
2013 gen 1. Mods are cobra jet intake, throttle body, cold air, Stainless Works LT headers, X pipe and GT500 exhaust. Currently have 435 whp. Looking for a gen 1 n/a beast at 500 whp. Cams are in the future to get me there.
E85?
You’ll be at like 490
Port that cj and get some good cams on e85 you should be knocking on the door of 500 if not at 500.
Please pick up a 3v. 🥺 theres not many 3v youtubers out there
@drewpeacock am I a joke to u
Dre M i never said there wasant any
for anybody curious i run bg gear fluid and the synchro-mess in my 2012 s3 roush, stuff is legit AF. and im shooting for 650
2014 F150 fx2/ gen 3 whipple 4" pulley/ 3.31 gear with 22" wheels/ VAS traction bars (in back seat) and a dead miss on an oiled down #7 cylinder. Guesstimate is 550rwhp. I'd like to see 1k/850ish to wheels and the hardest part is done. Temp motor will be here on Christmas eve and original will go on a stand. 6-800 in forged internals and hardware will hopefully get me strong enough to beat on it and not hurt it.
Well, It's now settled....I'm going for 1500 HP! :)
Damn bro just get a zo6 vette instead and beef that up if your looking for that much power.
Zl1 962/858 wheel ..I strictly roll race so putting power down isn't a big of deal..love all fast cars
Interesting, I hate driving with polarized lenses because I can’t see my screens well with them. But from a pure driving point it makes sense.
Just got my 2021 Mach 1 with handling package. I won't do it for at least 2-3 years, but eventually I may do an ESS supercharger. Not looking to do anything crazy, but maybe 650-750whp
Hey Jacob I have a 2014 saleen white label but its black it's got some upgrades already from saleen,I installed oil catch can,roush cold air intake resonators deleted,nmbr axlebacks on her, installed mbr lower control arms from saleen 440 at crank so I'm prob around 450 too 460 at crank, now just want a one piece aluminum driveshaft and get her dyno tuned and that's enough for me lol, thanks again jacob
I have a 2015 gen 2 coyote and I would be happy with 800 wheel with a super charger but so far I’m only at 420 to the wheel and I already feel like it’s slow lol I wanna double the number and I know the car could do it safely, maybe one day she’ll get a blower but until then I still love the car
Gen2 is basically the roadrunner engine from the boss. The rods are forged in the gen 2. Larger valves , heavier valve springs , etc….
My 2015 Roush stage 3 is now a 750 whp for 2yrs now without issue. And a daily driver.
Gen1 no set power goals just want to get full exhaust, boss 302 intake manifold, throttle body, cold air intake, and tune for a bit more HP
93 fox, gen 2, twin 6266 precision. Goals are 730 whp on 91 octane and 850/900 on e85. I would lower the power for the street but I need 8 PSI springs in the wastegates to be able to adjust it up to 16 PSI on the controller. And remember the engine holds those numbers but the transmissions are another story 😄
Actually I know alot of people with billet input shafts and stock 6r80 making 1000hp. 850/900 is pushing it. No matter what they tell you the stock rods are still a powder rod so trying to make more than 800hp is pushing it. Yes you can make 850-900 honestly people making 1000hp but you know those engines are on borrowed time because it will eventually take its toll without a fully forged rod and piston setup.
Are you a mechanic or do you build motors often?
I’m at 741 rear-wheel hp on my Gen1 motor has new setup cobra jet mani, ProCharged D1X on e85 I know I’m pushing the motor to its limit but surprisingly it’s still holding strong.
I think not having the low end torque hit and also having good fuel (e85) is probably helping to make it continue to live. Fuel is big when it comes to longevity with big power
I have 750 horsepower phase 2 supercharged and it's useless under 50mph even with 305 pilot sport 4s on the rear
I'm running the same setup totally agree with you can only roll race not dig race on the street. 500 Wheel hp will out run you on the street
@@Jamie-ww3yz next car I get is going to be all wheel drive. Not being able to put the power down is very annoying. Once they release a affordable absurdly fast electric sports coupe with high range I think I’m done with internal combustion though
I don't have a mustang yet, I'm saving up to buy a '14 gt as my second car and coming from a car that has 150hp crank, I think the 420hp will do fine for at least a few years. After that I'm sure I'll want more but to be honest, I think 420hp is enough to have enough fun without getting into any major trouble or being too dangerous.
You’re pretty spot on dude, my first car was a 2005 Eclipse GT, and now I’m in a 2012 5.0, speed is definitely not going to be an issue for me for a while.
I love the video I want atleast 450 to the wheel on my 2013 any suggestion it's bone stock
2013 Gt gen 1 goals to be around 700 hp just enough to have fun with anything that come my way
looking to get a gen1 coyote here soon looking at 650 rwhp to play with until i cn afford to build a second coyote
i’m surprised oil pump gears weren’t brought up at all. any coyote with a power adder like a super charger or turbos need oil pump gears. any gen any year, oil pump gears
Im going to shoot for 650-700. Dont know which direction I want to take yet though, either whipple sc or hellion single turbo
Whipple if you’re on the street more, single turbo for the track.
I have a 2012 GT. Like you said,around 650 RWHP is the safe limit,(because of the weak/non-forged connecting rods) and you can’t really use anymore than that on the street anyway!
I was going to give this video a line but I see you have 777 likes 👍 I don't wanna mess that lucky triple seven bro
What do you think guys about sleeve support Kit is it enough for 1000 whp??
Where you bought the carbon steering wheel?
I have a 2018 Gen 3 that I daily, but enjoy the occasional track day running the road courses. One thing you didnt talk about was the upgraded MT82-D4 trans, which I have.
Ideally, I would love the option to run 93 or E85 as available, and want to build to around 750-850whp eventually. Tired of getting passed by some kid in a stripped down Honda at the track.
Have been looking at brake, suspension, tire and other upgrades as well to match the power. Still under warranty, so holding off a bit.
Me and you are in the same exact boat. The warranty is killing me but I can't just throw it away. I'm currently looking into the Ford Performance Power Pack 2 and Power Pack 3 so I can still keep my warranty.
@@darrylpolite8722 What is a PP3? Never heard of that one. The PP2 was top of the line track pack option that's listed on the Ford build page.
Whats up bro i dont have a stang how ever the goal for my 2ss is low 600 high 500 whp.
Was on the phone to brenspeed the other day and they said safe limit for a gen 1 coyote is 600 Wheel horse power. Also said the worse thing to do is stay on the boost to long.
You know my build...NA, all motor
I'm out in AZ. Its 105 everyday and some days 115 to 120. No joke.
I have raced guys claiming that they were in 650 range for HP. I dont know if that was wheel or flywheel?.?.?. However I dont really feel as though I'm being affected by the heat as much as forced induction guys were. Mostly because I beat a few of them. At 460 rear wheel. And after we BS about our cars and they poped the hood and sure enough, they were supercharged. Not to mention my build also Taylor's to road race. I did not want to overpower the S197 chassis. I wanted a ballence. And be able to run at extended track lap counts. I.E. 5, 10, 15, laps without worrying about heat soaking. That's also why I went to a Stage 3 AMP trans build, Barton Hybrid 3 shifter, Ford Racing 1 piece drive shaft, McLeod race spec flywheel and street extream clutch. My current build is expected to dyno between 530 and 550 rear wheel. Not only will I not worry about Hellcats on the street, I'm not overpowering the car with Toolman Taylor ridiculous power.
Bro quit lying to urself.. 550 whp my ass thats not possible unless ur gen 3 with full bolt ons and e85 even then i doubt it any hellcat will shit on u lol not talking shit just basic facts numbers done lie
My MT82 has taken a beating for 65k miles, still have the stock shifter too. I have a Boss intake, exhaust and a tune. I honestly think some people are trying to speed shift and let the clutch out before it's fully in gear. Also dumping the clutch is a killer. While I don't necessarily LIKE the MT82 but it'll last if you don't do dumb shit to it.
I have a gen one with 600 wheel. Want to build the motor and get about 900. Be a mopar killer lol
How do u enjoy all the stickers....
Had to watch. The steering wheel you have in your car I want in my 07 Shelby gt500 do you know where I can get one that has the looks of yours but from 05-09 Mustang?
I have the gen2 in my 17f150 fx4. I had the rousch stage 2 kit with exhaust and cold air intake done to it. Id like to go faster and would like to know what i can do besides adding headers and a bigger throttle body. Id like to get to 500 whp. Adding a supercharger isnt doable right now tho. Which is the best headers for the gen2?
a mustang is the best option for you😂😂
Gen 1 but definitely building it for twin turbos in the future and wanna make it a dedicated drag street build looking for 1000 hp because every car out there if it’s not 1000hp now it’s slow compared to all the cars out there racing.