I did the same with the forearm. I had noticed that the stock was touching the barrel. I drilled holes in the cross vanes to ensure the epoxy wouldn't pop lose and rattle around...sorta like ice cubes popped from an ice tray. Made sure it was one solid piece. I also torqued down the action screws and placed/wedged popcicle sticks and centered the barrel at the fore end tip as the epoxy hardened up. Used a dewalt drill and round heavy grit sanding wheel to smooth out the inside. It helped a lot for the use of a bipod. Used foil tape to bed and stiffen up the action. I also used epoxy and BBs to add a little weight to the shoulder stock for recoil. Rough up the inside for the epoxy to hold solid, to prevent it from popping lose. It improved the accuracy by a lot. I gave it as a gift. They love the rifle.
I did a similar thing to my mossberg mvp synthetic stock. I did the front just like you but for the rear I filled it 2/3 with beach sand and the remaining 1/3 with epoxy. Its been 4 years and still like the day I did it. Great vid
4 shoulder surgeries between 47- 50 years old. Love the American predator 6.5mm creedmoor for recoil and lightweight. Working great on whitetail deer and yotes out to 350 yards so far. Precision hunter 143gr eld-x
I did a similar project of adding weight to the stock of my Remington 700 rifle, which used a Hogue stock that has a hollow butt. I mixed 1/4 inch steel ball bearings in plumber putty. I packed in the butt of the stock with the mixture, screwed the buttplate back, and scraped off any excess putty that was squeezed out. The best part is that this increase weight modification is not permanent in that the putty and ball bearing mixture can be easily scooped out.
Another really good video. Just got a Predator in 6mm - itss a great shooter and I immediately thought about an MDT chassis but after watching your video I may try adding wright and stay w a 12 lb rifle for a while. BTW - its great to see videos with simple mods and stuff that ordinary guys can afford and have fun with with instead of the $4K rifles w $3K scopes that many suggest you need to ring steel at 600 yds plus. THANKS
I used 2 part mold silicone purchased from ebay to fill the hollow butt stock. Nice and firm silicone. Any type of lead can be added during the pour. Sets up in an hour. Ready to rock.
Great video. Nice garage and work space. I decided to use 30 minute epoxy and fishing sinkers to fill the butt of the stock. I did it over several days so as not to get the stock too hot. When that stuff cooks off it get very very hot so it is best to do a little at a time until you reach your desired level.
I you could see where my blue truck is parked there is a pit there. The guy that build my shop back in the 70's had a little alignment shop there. It's about 5 feet deep and has steel runners to drive on. I change a ton of oil on it. People are always bring their vehicles over to look at stuff.
I fixed mine by purchasing a Magpul hunter stock. Looks better, feels better, and some extra weight to absorb the 450 Bushmaster. M-lock also makes it more functional.
I have a RPR in 6mm with an Arken 6-24x. After some careful swapping I’ve got it down to 10lbs1oz (And my goal is 8.5lbs). The idea of a 12lb predator rifle is not for me, but to each, their own.
Nice Video, I also added quite a bit of weight to my stock on my Predator. I used 7-1/2 lead shot in the fore end and covered them with Glaze coat 2 part epoxy, then with the Mathews fabrication Cheek riser installed I cut a piece of 1/2 thick 1-1/2 wide steel bar stock approx 10 inches long down inside the butt of the rifle utilizing the through bolts for the cheek riser to hold it in place
next time you want to add weight to the butt stock, here is a tip. take an old pot, or a new cheap one. melt a bunch of glue sticks in the pot. pour in some shotgun shot, the exact weight plus the weight of the glue you want. take a funnel and pour the SIMI-LIQUID hot glue and shot mix into the stock, let cool. is never going to move or rattle. works great. probably not stiff enough for the forend but my dads 270 axis i did for him now kicks like a 223 lol.. heavy but comfortable
I brought my 350 Legend Ranch to 8 Lbs with scope and mag by adding 4oz of BBs mixed with epoxy resin dropped to the neck of the stock to compensate for about 4.5 oz of steel epoxy in the fore end. It balances well and definitely stabilize the rifle when aiming. Thanks for posting
I used two sandwich bags filled with plaster of paris. Tamp some paper towel into the wrist area. Just when the pop starts to gel up, feed the bag into the stock and form it in. Tamp in some paper towel on top. Then feed the second bag in zipper end first. Top with paper towel and close. After the pop warms up and cools down, you have 1.5 lb heavier buttstock. It feels solid as a rock (pun intended) and really balanced the rifle. Full size scope, sling, and loaded mag (AUW) is 9.8 lbs.
Rock River Arms sells a hunk of lead that fits the inside of an A2 stock. Don't know how it would fit the Ruger stock, as is, but it's got a very similar shape. It could be trimmed a bit, or if it's too small, you could use the Flex Seal stuff around it while it's soft and scrape off what would squeeze out. It weighs about 3lb when you get it. And the screws for the cheek riser would really help hold it in place if you drill the holes right through the lead piece.
I've always just added clear silicone caulk inside my stocks. Add a little per day and let it set up over night. Takes about a week to fill it completely. But it's nice and solid, adds weight, and cuts down recoil a tad as a bonus.
I did that to a GSG MP5 .22 stock and a Remington 597 stock, it worked great. Get a couple tubes of Clear Silicone Caulk from Walmart for around $10.00 and add BBs/lead shot if you want. The Silicone weighs about 10 oz. per tube. Hot glue works as well,but buy the sticks in bulk to have enough and to save on cost.
I just purchased a ruger predator 6.5. The foregrip looks dramatically different than what the other/older models do. Mine has much more grids/bracing which really does stiffen it up. With the stock itself, I used good ol FlexSeal. Thanks Billy Mays. Does add some weight, fills all voids, absorbs almost all recoil as it is really just rubber in a liquid form.
I’m not sure it’s much of a challenge to add weight to a rifle. It would be interesting if you had a method of increasing rigidity without adding (or even cutting) weight.
I used JB weld epoxy to the fore end of a Hogue stock for my Mosin rifle to get rid of the flex . I only added about a 3/8 inch thick of JB epoxy to the fore end and it worked fine .
Idk I'm all for finding ways to gain extra rigidity, but I cringe at the thought of intentionally adding weight. I understand it adds somewhat to ridgidity, but I feel there are better ways.
I did similar work to my savage axis 2 I just used 2 part epoxy to stiffen front end then did epoxy in rear end and added some bb’s to center the weight up of the rifle and sanded barrel channel
Not sure how it will work yet but i used some 1/2 sling shot ammo (ball bearings) to fill most of the voids then #6 shot poured around them, and Bondo resin over the top. I noticed it wasn't totally full to the spacers so I poured metal fines in the corners to raise them and more Bondo over the top. It is in '06 so I rather cary weight than develop a flinch. Plus I'm a large guy so what might seam heavy to some isn't horrible for me. P.s. I like your garage also. That's cool it's set up the way it is!
I used 5min epoxy on my forend sanded and painted. Looks nice and adds a good amount of weight. Although it’s hard to find the Ruger moss green color anywhere lol. Then for the buttstock I used liquid flex seal... that’s right as seen on tv. I tell you it worked great for this project. You MUST do this a little at a time. Maybe 1/2” thick then let dry for a few days. But end result is a shock absorbing stiff with no hollow sound at all buttstock. My rifle is right at 12’ish pounds also. Great vid!! Keep the flex seal humor to a min lol it works!!!
So over the summer I was going to buy a can of Flex-Seal and try to coat a steel target and see if it's possible to make body armor. I figured if it's about 1/2 inch thick I might be able to catch a bullet. I just never got around to it.
I tried flex seal in the forend and it took forever to harden off. I finally took it out and will fill with epoxy. I fill my but stock with epoxy and fishing weights. Not sure what the final weight will be on the rifle.
@@4crwjr By adding weights are you building a hunting rifle or a bench rest paper hole puncher? I am genuinely interested, not being critical at all. Just looking for a ways to firm up the butt to torque down a Mathews cheek riser without a lot of unnecessary weight for hunting purposes.
I’m not hunting with this rifle it’s just kills paper. I have a ruger American in 3006 that is the meat getter it’s all stock and nice and light. The extra weight is just for stability. Dang it’s been 4 years already. but it still a tack driver..
Some weight is never bad to a rifle you feel is to light. Carlos hathcock shot a model 70 with a match barrel that probably weighed close to 12 pounds with everything added up (just a guess). My point is people are scared of heavy guns but heavy guns bring a lot to the table.
For what I do with the rifle, I want a heavy gun. I get so many negative comments, saying how dumb it is. When you do the kind of shooting I do, weight is your friend.
I used cheap buy the pound nuts ( nuts & bolts) packed nuts in the holes (😆😆😘) being sure to keep them below the barrel line the. Filled with cheap jb weld 2 part clear epoxy. Cost me less then 8$ and I still have over half of the epoxy left over. No sanding or mess to speak of . Mix the epoxy pour in ,and you can pick everything up local. I bought my epoxy at walmart and nuts at orchalands. With all that said I finally noticed the flex everyone complains about . It's all in the action. Yo I can't do anything
I am curious as to your thoughts about weight in the butt stock. I see that you used lead, foam, and a shop towel. I was thinking that modeling clay might be a good option. It has some weight, easy to insert, and would not hinder adding accessories such as drilling the stock for a cheek riser. What do you think? Also, I was thinking that “plumbers” epoxy might be a good alternative for the forearm of the stock. It is pliable and somewhat moldable. It would add strength without a lot of weight and is easy to work with. What are your thoughts?
I like it man, I modified my tikkas stock to suit my style a bit better and with a bit of creativity you can make it work for a whole lot less than a chassis. Unfortunately with the new barrel I’d have to cut too much of the fore end away to make the barrel fit so a new stock was pretty much necessary. Great job on yours!
Have you looked at the Boyd "At One" stock for the predator. If what I am doing to the original stock does not work out like I want it too, that is my next step.
Very Well Done and Informative... New Subscriber with just one question: Why all the "added weight"? Are these hunting rifles that will be carried for hours at a time in the woods or, are they primarily long-range bench shooters?
I used lead shot, #8 or #6 I think, to achieve the weight I wanted to add and then with the stock standing, I filled the balance using silicone to keep the lead shot where it should be......
Why? This is a Hunting rifle not a Precision bench rest rifle, this guns specifically designed to be "light weight" for trekking through the woods/mountains all day. I mean the bolt on these rifles are purposely made sloppy & loose for mud & grime so they still function while hunting if dropped etc (not zero tolerance bolt for precision shooting ) don't get me wrong like my RAR a lot I was surprised at the accuracy out of the box but the last thing I'd want is to add more weight to a Hunting gun? I'd recommend the RPR if you can swing it for Precision, I have one in 308 it's an absolute Tack driver, I'd never take it hunting tho it weighs in at 16.9lbs w/scope & Bipod... Best of luck
Well, most hunters/shooters are not trekking through the woods all day. The vast majority are going to be hunting small parcels of land. Many will be set up in a stand or blind so a couple of extra pounds will not make much difference. Also I have never met a single hunter/ shooter that does not want a gun to be accurate and if you can make an already accurate gun even more so, that's all the better. On top of that, many do not have the money for a bench rest rifle so a happy medium will be better than nothing at all. Or consider that maybe I have gotten a taste of a bench rest gun and If I can get my other rifles to shoot close to the same precision with minimal upgrade and cost why not. One last thing, the process that he is using is also very customizable. Say I wanted to add more or less weight. With minor adjustments to the process this is very achievable.
HKGuy #1 Common sense does not prevail on YT very often. Nobody that is a serious hunter wants a rifle that weighs any more than necessary. The only exception is the segment of people that drive to a ground blind or shooting shack, sit down in it and don’t move the rest of the day. That scenario doesn’t fit many hunters though. Many still stalk, climb ridges, and stay moving during hunts. I guarantee you that for them every ounce of weight that they can shed is a benefit and their lighter weight guns are still far more accurate than they’ll ever need.
yes my friend uses one to hunt with and is now using 150 gr subsonic loads with a suppressor? he was astounded by my 300bo pistol with my yh titanium suppressor for stand hunting at about 80 yds or less.
@@prevost8686 you would be amazed at the younger hunters that think setting in a box with a heater over a corn feeder that feeds year round is hunting.
All these ideas look great, I have 2 Americans - One in a 6.5 Creedmoor and One in a 7mm-08 Remington. I was thinking of all these ideas and wanted to know what anyone thinks of using Rockite? The only issue I see is that I would have to use small amounts at a time for the back end of the stock as it gets really hot. It's easy to use, dry's quick and cheap. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
I'm looking to bed the action and 2-3 inches of the barrel just past the chamber\taper. Then I'm gonna mount the scope. And cheek riser. After that if I add any weight it will be as little and as far back in the buttstock as possible just balance the rifle for carry with my hand under the magazine. Thanks for the video.
How much does the stock weight without the bipod? I'm wanting to buy a Ruger American and I'm trying to decide if getting an MDT LSS chassis would be better. The Chassis weighs 1.4-1.6 pounds, but how does that compare to the regular polymer stock?
What is the main purpose of adding weight to the stock? I know it helps with recoil, but I wanted to know your specific reason for doing it. I just bought a Ruger American in 6.5 Creedmoor. With the light recoil, I may not want to add weight unless it helps with accuracy. Thank You.
good cheap way to add weight but I don't like a field type stock that is heavy. If you are doing it to just reduce recoil add a mercury recoil reducer either in the forearm to add weight to the front or put it in the rear. I have been doing this forever since syn stocks came out. I guess you are just trying to make a bench gun out of a hunter.
I swapped out stock and everything on mine to mil spec. Past 60 inch pounds on my action and I start getting bolt bind. It’s recommended 60-80 but ain’t no way I can go higher.
Do u think drilling out groves on both sides of the "X" in the fore end & adding the carbon arrows & then epoxying in the arrows for a really stiff fore end for the bi pod vibration would be worth the effort? Light but lots stronger??
I'm new to rifles so forgive my ignorance, I understand sanding/dremelling to ensure the barrel is free float, but what does adding so much weight accomplish? Aside from helping with recoil I don't know why you would want to add so much weight.
Not sure if you ever got an answer to your question, but it has to do with the flex in those hollow, lightweight stocks. They flex more than a stiffer or wooden stock would from my understanding. That can throw off the shot. That's why a lot of shooters like a freefloated barrel, so it doesn't touch the stock at all to interfere with the shot.
I use this rifle as a bench rifle. It is only shot with a bipod and bag. The heaver it is the less it moves. With the muzzle brake and the added weight, I can spot all my shots, it is very easy to keep the scope on target after a shot.
I have the same rifle in 243 for deer hunting. It is a great shooter. Group of 3 with less than an inch apart. Deadly on whitetail. I don't see that it could be better to alter my stock. Why do ya'll do it?
In higher caliber, I get it. My range is 150 yard max. I shoot hornady white tail 100 gr. Are you shooting long range competition? Very good video. Haters are everywhere.
yea, i'm not sure what he doing. i get adding weight to balance a gun or reducing recoil and fiberglassing for rigidity or making the gun not feel hollow. but to me there are better ways with much less weight... unless he is solely just trying to reduce recoil!
243 hay James from Texas.. Have u tried the new magpul stock for your ruger short action just came out on my 6.5cm I went from half inch to a quarter... All your lrsu videos are awsome good shooting cowboy
I can see adding weight to a bigger caliber rifle like a 308 or 30-06 to reduce recoil but a 243? It’s not a hard kicking round to begin with. I have a Rossi youth single shot that came with a 243, 410, and 22 lr barrel and I can shoot the 243 with one hand and it barely kicks at all so it is really not worth adding the weight to this rifle
@@243Outdoors only with a bipod I bet, not off of a bag or real rest for long distance. A long distance rest can be placed further back toward the trigger and the flex does not bother the barrel harmonics. course it needs to be floated. but who shoots a hunter stock 1k anyway. My friend hit a 20inch plate at 1k but it took him 100 rounds with his ruger 308 precision rifle, he actually thought that was good. I guess he didn't use a ballistic calculator just walked it in with 5 boxes of 35.00 a box loads.
@Holy Lick It has a Go Wild Camo stock, bronze cerakote, AI Style magazine, and factory installed muzzle brake. It also costs around $100 more than the standard Ruger American Predator.
@@ratcamaro I just was given one that the young owner said it had a very hard extraction with a fired round, so much that he has loosened the bolt handle trying to eject a round. I came here to see how in the hell you get the screw under the mag release out without removing the release. what a crappy design to use a design on a different magwell design. So in the field you need a hammer and punch and 3/16 allen wrench just to get the stock off if you get caught in a rain or it gets in the mud somehow? damn, I have one of these in the box still but I'm not sure I will ever take it out except to sell it.
@@ratcamaro I just was given one that the young owner said it had a very hard extraction with a fired round, so much that he has loosened the bolt handle trying to eject a round. I came here to see how in the hell you get the screw under the mag release out without removing the release. what a crappy design to use a design on a different magwell design. So in the field you need a hammer and punch and 3/16 allen wrench just to get the stock off if you get caught in a rain or it gets in the mud somehow? damn, I have one of these in the box still but I'm not sure I will ever take it out except to sell it.
I didn't use epoxy, I used Bondo Fiberglass. I used the long strain, and I would at least recommend the short strain. The long fibers were a little tough to get in place. A lot of people have used JB Weld.
@@Barnes-ml9wg Notice the military replaced the Garand for just that reason. Swapping 30-06 for 308, and then the M14 for the M16. But to be fair, if you wanted a bench-queen on a budget, you'd do exactly what he's doing. So kudos I guess.
Anyone here have velocity from ruger American predator 6.5mm creedmoor with hornady precision hunter 143 gr eld-x below 1000 feet in elevation. Need info for a new scope on mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated
this is not going to cure the soft twisted stock. I had to strap the stock down and square everything. I then drilled a hole and used graphite rods for the entire length. then rods were inserted and checked for square again and clamped firmly in place. Light fibreglass rods in place, personally don't add weight.. Honestly the best thing to do is throw the piece of shit stock in the garbage. lol
REALLY why..i can see free floating but the rest ...whatever..not saying your wrong but I'll pass but sure there's others who will go for it..good job on vid thou.best to you all's
Great informative video as always! I recently bought one of these in 6.5 creed and yesterday I posted a video of my accuracy. If you have time go check it out.
I agree. I bought a Ruger American Ranch because I wanted a light handy rifle. If I wanted a heavy precision rifle for long-range bench rest shooting, I would've bought one.
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
I did the same with the forearm. I had noticed that the stock was touching the barrel. I drilled holes in the cross vanes to ensure the epoxy wouldn't pop lose and rattle around...sorta like ice cubes popped from an ice tray. Made sure it was one solid piece. I also torqued down the action screws and placed/wedged popcicle sticks and centered the barrel at the fore end tip as the epoxy hardened up. Used a dewalt drill and round heavy grit sanding wheel to smooth out the inside.
It helped a lot for the use of a bipod.
Used foil tape to bed and stiffen up the action.
I also used epoxy and BBs to add a little weight to the shoulder stock for recoil. Rough up the inside for the epoxy to hold solid, to prevent it from popping lose.
It improved the accuracy by a lot.
I gave it as a gift. They love the rifle.
I did a similar thing to my mossberg mvp synthetic stock. I did the front just like you but for the rear I filled it 2/3 with beach sand and the remaining 1/3 with epoxy. Its been 4 years and still like the day I did it. Great vid
Good video bro, but im the opposite I'm getting older i like my hunting rifle light as possible and my bench rifle heavy👍
4 shoulder surgeries between 47- 50 years old. Love the American predator 6.5mm creedmoor for recoil and lightweight. Working great on whitetail deer and yotes out to 350 yards so far. Precision hunter 143gr eld-x
Lovin the 80’s Chevrolet in the background.
I did a similar project of adding weight to the stock of my Remington 700 rifle, which used a Hogue stock that has a hollow butt. I mixed 1/4 inch steel ball bearings in plumber putty. I packed in the butt of the stock with the mixture, screwed the buttplate back, and scraped off any excess putty that was squeezed out. The best part is that this increase weight modification is not permanent in that the putty and ball bearing mixture can be easily scooped out.
Another really good video. Just got a Predator in 6mm - itss a great shooter and I immediately thought about an MDT chassis but after watching your video I may try adding wright and stay w a 12 lb rifle for a while. BTW - its great to see videos with simple mods and stuff that ordinary guys can afford and have fun with with instead of the $4K rifles w $3K scopes that many suggest you need to ring steel at 600 yds plus. THANKS
I used 2 part mold silicone purchased from ebay to fill the hollow butt stock. Nice and firm silicone. Any type of lead can be added during the pour. Sets up in an hour. Ready to rock.
Silicone 2 part will absorb a lot of vibration I would think too
Great video. Nice garage and work space. I decided to use 30 minute epoxy and fishing sinkers to fill the butt of the stock. I did it over several days so as not to get the stock too hot. When that stuff cooks off it get very very hot so it is best to do a little at a time until you reach your desired level.
I you could see where my blue truck is parked there is a pit there. The guy that build my shop back in the 70's had a little alignment shop there. It's about 5 feet deep and has steel runners to drive on. I change a ton of oil on it. People are always bring their vehicles over to look at stuff.
I did the same
I fixed mine by purchasing a Magpul hunter stock. Looks better, feels better, and some extra weight to absorb the 450 Bushmaster. M-lock also makes it more functional.
I have a RPR in 6mm with an Arken 6-24x. After some careful swapping I’ve got it down to 10lbs1oz (And my goal is 8.5lbs). The idea of a 12lb predator rifle is not for me, but to each, their own.
Nice Video, I also added quite a bit of weight to my stock on my Predator. I used 7-1/2 lead shot in the fore end and covered them with Glaze coat 2 part epoxy, then with the Mathews fabrication Cheek riser installed I cut a piece of 1/2 thick 1-1/2 wide steel bar stock approx 10 inches long down inside the butt of the rifle utilizing the through bolts for the cheek riser to hold it in place
Instead of the spray foam use silicone and add a large bolt adds weight and I think it helps absorb some recoil.
next time you want to add weight to the butt stock, here is a tip. take an old pot, or a new cheap one. melt a bunch of glue sticks in the pot. pour in some shotgun shot, the exact weight plus the weight of the glue you want. take a funnel and pour the SIMI-LIQUID hot glue and shot mix into the stock, let cool. is never going to move or rattle. works great. probably not stiff enough for the forend but my dads 270 axis i did for him now kicks like a 223 lol.. heavy but comfortable
I brought my 350 Legend Ranch to 8 Lbs with scope and mag by adding 4oz of BBs mixed with epoxy resin dropped to the neck of the stock to compensate for about 4.5 oz of steel epoxy in the fore end. It balances well and definitely stabilize the rifle when aiming. Thanks for posting
I used two sandwich bags filled with plaster of paris. Tamp some paper towel into the wrist area. Just when the pop starts to gel up, feed the bag into the stock and form it in. Tamp in some paper towel on top. Then feed the second bag in zipper end first. Top with paper towel and close. After the pop warms up and cools down, you have 1.5 lb heavier buttstock. It feels solid as a rock (pun intended) and really balanced the rifle. Full size scope, sling, and loaded mag (AUW) is 9.8 lbs.
Rock River Arms sells a hunk of lead that fits the inside of an A2 stock. Don't know how it would fit the Ruger stock, as is, but it's got a very similar shape. It could be trimmed a bit, or if it's too small, you could use the Flex Seal stuff around it while it's soft and scrape off what would squeeze out. It weighs about 3lb when you get it. And the screws for the cheek riser would really help hold it in place if you drill the holes right through the lead piece.
I've always just added clear silicone caulk inside my stocks. Add a little per day and let it set up over night. Takes about a week to fill it completely. But it's nice and solid, adds weight, and cuts down recoil a tad as a bonus.
I did that to a GSG MP5 .22 stock and a Remington 597 stock, it worked great. Get a couple tubes of Clear Silicone Caulk from Walmart for around $10.00 and add BBs/lead shot if you want. The Silicone weighs about 10 oz. per tube. Hot glue works as well,but buy the sticks in bulk to have enough and to save on cost.
I just purchased a ruger predator 6.5. The foregrip looks dramatically different than what the other/older models do. Mine has much more grids/bracing which really does stiffen it up. With the stock itself, I used good ol FlexSeal. Thanks Billy Mays. Does add some weight, fills all voids, absorbs almost all recoil as it is really just rubber in a liquid form.
Now reduced the recoil something I'd be interested in
The stock will fit one pound of plumbers putty perfectly. If you don't like it it will come out easy with a butter knife. Cost about four dollars.
Ryan Albright in the fore end or the butt stock?
I’m not sure it’s much of a challenge to add weight to a rifle. It would be interesting if you had a method of increasing rigidity without adding (or even cutting) weight.
I bought a r.a.p 6.5cm pretty much just from watching ur vids. Thanks its been a great rifle
Thanks, You will have a blast with it.
I filled one of my stocks with cheap wax that I melted and poured into it, added a bit of weight and defiantly made the cheap stock feel less cheap.
I used JB weld epoxy to the fore end of a Hogue stock for my Mosin rifle to get rid of the flex . I only added about a 3/8 inch thick of JB epoxy to the fore end and it worked fine .
Idk I'm all for finding ways to gain extra rigidity, but I cringe at the thought of intentionally adding weight. I understand it adds somewhat to ridgidity, but I feel there are better ways.
I did similar work to my savage axis 2 I just used 2 part epoxy to stiffen front end then did epoxy in rear end and added some bb’s to center the weight up of the rifle and sanded barrel channel
Not sure how it will work yet but i used some 1/2 sling shot ammo (ball bearings) to fill most of the voids then #6 shot poured around them, and Bondo resin over the top. I noticed it wasn't totally full to the spacers so I poured metal fines in the corners to raise them and more Bondo over the top. It is in '06 so I rather cary weight than develop a flinch. Plus I'm a large guy so what might seam heavy to some isn't horrible for me.
P.s. I like your garage also. That's cool it's set up the way it is!
A lot of people use regular BB's. Anything to fill the voids helps.
I used 5min epoxy on my forend sanded and painted. Looks nice and adds a good amount of weight. Although it’s hard to find the Ruger moss green color anywhere lol. Then for the buttstock I used liquid flex seal... that’s right as seen on tv. I tell you it worked great for this project. You MUST do this a little at a time. Maybe 1/2” thick then let dry for a few days. But end result is a shock absorbing stiff with no hollow sound at all buttstock. My rifle is right at 12’ish pounds also. Great vid!!
Keep the flex seal humor to a min lol it works!!!
So over the summer I was going to buy a can of Flex-Seal and try to coat a steel target and see if it's possible to make body armor. I figured if it's about 1/2 inch thick I might be able to catch a bullet. I just never got around to it.
I tried flex seal in the forend and it took forever to harden off. I finally took it out and will fill with epoxy. I fill my but stock with epoxy and fishing weights. Not sure what the final weight will be on the rifle.
Ya the flex seal takes awhile, I did it in little amounts. I really like the feel of it now.
@@4crwjr By adding weights are you building a hunting rifle or a bench rest paper hole puncher? I am genuinely interested, not being critical at all. Just looking for a ways to firm up the butt to torque down a Mathews cheek riser without a lot of unnecessary weight for hunting purposes.
I’m not hunting with this rifle it’s just kills paper. I have a ruger American in 3006 that is the meat getter it’s all stock and nice and light. The extra weight is just for stability. Dang it’s been 4 years already. but it still a tack driver..
I own the same gun and the rpr in 6mm creedmoor both amazingly accurate
Some weight is never bad to a rifle you feel is to light. Carlos hathcock shot a model 70 with a match barrel that probably weighed close to 12 pounds with everything added up (just a guess). My point is people are scared of heavy guns but heavy guns bring a lot to the table.
For what I do with the rifle, I want a heavy gun. I get so many negative comments, saying how dumb it is. When you do the kind of shooting I do, weight is your friend.
I used cheap buy the pound nuts ( nuts & bolts) packed nuts in the holes (😆😆😘) being sure to keep them below the barrel line the. Filled with cheap jb weld 2 part clear epoxy. Cost me less then 8$ and I still have over half of the epoxy left over. No sanding or mess to speak of . Mix the epoxy pour in ,and you can pick everything up local. I bought my epoxy at walmart and nuts at orchalands. With all that said I finally noticed the flex everyone complains about . It's all in the action. Yo I can't do anything
I am curious as to your thoughts about weight in the butt stock.
I see that you used lead, foam, and a shop towel.
I was thinking that modeling clay might be a good option.
It has some weight, easy to insert, and would not hinder adding accessories such as drilling the stock for a cheek riser.
What do you think?
Also, I was thinking that “plumbers” epoxy might be a good alternative for the forearm of the stock.
It is pliable and somewhat moldable.
It would add strength without a lot of weight and is easy to work with.
What are your thoughts?
Best thing you can do to a cheap synthetic stock is fill the butt stock with clear silicone. It dampens & absorbs the harmonics of the rifle
I like it man, I modified my tikkas stock to suit my style a bit better and with a bit of creativity you can make it work for a whole lot less than a chassis. Unfortunately with the new barrel I’d have to cut too much of the fore end away to make the barrel fit so a new stock was pretty much necessary. Great job on yours!
It works well. I would love to put it in a chassis, but for what they cost, it's not going to shoot that much better.
Have you looked at the Boyd "At One" stock for the predator. If what I am doing to the original stock does not work out like I want it too, that is my next step.
I just finished mine made a big difference shooting from a bipod.
Yes it does. I took this gun out coyote hunting a couple weeks ago, I got tired of carrying it real quick.
@@243Outdoors thats what i was juat thinking. This is only really for target ahooting or longrange correct?
Yeah, I just use this as a bench gun. Adding weight to a rifle that will be carried in the field, isn't the best idea.
@@243Outdoors okay, thanks for the info
Very Well Done and Informative... New Subscriber with just one question: Why all the "added weight"? Are these hunting rifles that will be carried for hours at a time in the woods or, are they primarily long-range bench shooters?
Just a bench gun. Heavier makes it more stable on the bench.
I used lead shot, #8 or #6 I think, to achieve the weight I wanted to add and then with the stock standing, I filled the balance using silicone to keep the lead shot where it should be......
Why? This is a Hunting rifle not a Precision bench rest rifle, this guns specifically designed to be "light weight" for trekking through the woods/mountains all day. I mean the bolt on these rifles are purposely made sloppy & loose for mud & grime so they still function while hunting if dropped etc (not zero tolerance bolt for precision shooting ) don't get me wrong like my RAR a lot I was surprised at the accuracy out of the box but the last thing I'd want is to add more weight to a Hunting gun? I'd recommend the RPR if you can swing it for Precision, I have one in 308 it's an absolute Tack driver, I'd never take it hunting tho it weighs in at 16.9lbs w/scope & Bipod... Best of luck
Well, most hunters/shooters are not trekking through the woods all day. The vast majority are going to be hunting small parcels of land. Many will be set up in a stand or blind so a couple of extra pounds will not make much difference. Also I have never met a single hunter/ shooter that does not want a gun to be accurate and if you can make an already accurate gun even more so, that's all the better. On top of that, many do not have the money for a bench rest rifle so a happy medium will be better than nothing at all. Or consider that maybe I have gotten a taste of a bench rest gun and If I can get my other rifles to shoot close to the same precision with minimal upgrade and cost why not. One last thing, the process that he is using is also very customizable. Say I wanted to add more or less weight. With minor adjustments to the process this is very achievable.
@@TRUTHBMXracing Great point of view, well said....
HKGuy #1 Common sense does not prevail on YT very often. Nobody that is a serious hunter wants a rifle that weighs any more than necessary. The only exception is the segment of people that drive to a ground blind or shooting shack, sit down in it and don’t move the rest of the day. That scenario doesn’t fit many hunters though. Many still stalk, climb ridges, and stay moving during hunts. I guarantee you that for them every ounce of weight that they can shed is a benefit and their lighter weight guns are still far more accurate than they’ll ever need.
yes my friend uses one to hunt with and is now using 150 gr subsonic loads with a suppressor? he was astounded by my 300bo pistol with my yh titanium suppressor for stand hunting at about 80 yds or less.
@@prevost8686 you would be amazed at the younger hunters that think setting in a box with a heater over a corn feeder that feeds year round is hunting.
All these ideas look great, I have 2 Americans - One in a 6.5 Creedmoor and One in a 7mm-08 Remington. I was thinking of all these ideas and wanted to know what anyone thinks of using Rockite? The only issue I see is that I would have to use small amounts at a time for the back end of the stock as it gets really hot. It's easy to use, dry's quick and cheap. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
I'm looking to bed the action and 2-3 inches of the barrel just past the chamber\taper.
Then I'm gonna mount the scope. And cheek riser.
After that if I add any weight it will be as little and as far back in the buttstock as possible just balance the rifle for carry with my hand under the magazine.
Thanks for the video.
Do you remember how much epoxy fits in the fore stock for the bedding?
How much does the stock weight without the bipod? I'm wanting to buy a Ruger American and I'm trying to decide if getting an MDT LSS chassis would be better. The Chassis weighs 1.4-1.6 pounds, but how does that compare to the regular polymer stock?
How about just filling the rear stock. With saw dust,just a suggestion. Good video though.have bess day to all
12 lbs people say my LR-RIFLE in 243 win is to heavy is the same thing after everything put on the Rifle for stiffness put on.
What is the main purpose of adding weight to the stock? I know it helps with recoil, but I wanted to know your specific reason for doing it. I just bought a Ruger American in 6.5 Creedmoor. With the light recoil, I may not want to add weight unless it helps with accuracy. Thank You.
I only shoot it as a bench gun so I want it as heavy as I can make it. It reduces recoil and just makes it more stable to shoot.
@@243Outdoors Makes sense. Thanks for the reply.
good cheap way to add weight but I don't like a field type stock that is heavy. If you are doing it to just reduce recoil add a mercury recoil reducer either in the forearm to add weight to the front or put it in the rear. I have been doing this forever since syn stocks came out. I guess you are just trying to make a bench gun out of a hunter.
I swapped out stock and everything on mine to mil spec. Past 60 inch pounds on my action and I start getting bolt bind. It’s recommended 60-80 but ain’t no way I can go higher.
I'm poorboy; I put play-sand in the butt stock and dremeled the forearm. Makes all the difference.
Yep anything that adds weight will help.
Do u think drilling out groves on both sides of the "X" in the fore end & adding the carbon arrows & then epoxying in the arrows for a really stiff fore end for the bi pod vibration would be worth the effort? Light but lots stronger??
Yeah, I think that would help a lot, but like you said, it's a lot of effort.
Great Video, Josh, 👍🏻👊🏻
Did the barrel stay free floated and does it keep flyers from happening?
Hey mr get rid of those stocks and get the Magpul hunter stock they are awesome and responsible priced
Yes they are. But they have problems in the Ruger American....magazine probs , at least in the 300 BLK
Did it make ur groups any tighter ?
I'm new to rifles so forgive my ignorance, I understand sanding/dremelling to ensure the barrel is free float, but what does adding so much weight accomplish? Aside from helping with recoil I don't know why you would want to add so much weight.
Not sure if you ever got an answer to your question, but it has to do with the flex in those hollow, lightweight stocks. They flex more than a stiffer or wooden stock would from my understanding. That can throw off the shot. That's why a lot of shooters like a freefloated barrel, so it doesn't touch the stock at all to interfere with the shot.
Im new to these rifles. I just got one in 6.5. Why do you want to add the weight? Recoil? Accuracy?
I use this rifle as a bench rifle. It is only shot with a bipod and bag. The heaver it is the less it moves. With the muzzle brake and the added weight, I can spot all my shots, it is very easy to keep the scope on target after a shot.
Do I really want a 12-pound rifle? NOPE.
You must be a manlet
Do you want arms like Arnie?
i mortised an aluminum strip into the fore grip and then poured resin over it
I have the same rifle in 243 for deer hunting. It is a great shooter. Group of 3 with less than an inch apart. Deadly on whitetail. I don't see that it could be better to alter my stock. Why do ya'll do it?
In higher caliber, I get it. My range is 150 yard max. I shoot hornady white tail 100 gr. Are you shooting long range competition? Very good video. Haters are everywhere.
I use it for a long range bench rifle so weight is your friend.
Why no just change the stocks?
That costs alot more.
Why do u want to add more weight. I have a compact , with the weight of the scope, bipod and rounds with magazine it feells aleeqdy heavy
yea, i'm not sure what he doing. i get adding weight to balance a gun or reducing recoil and fiberglassing for rigidity or making the gun not feel hollow. but to me there are better ways with much less weight... unless he is solely just trying to reduce recoil!
243 hay James from Texas.. Have u tried the new magpul stock for your ruger short action just came out on my 6.5cm I went from half inch to a quarter... All your lrsu videos are awsome good shooting cowboy
Howdy. No I haven't tried one. I would like to but I'm not spending $300 on a stock. I'm sure it would be a huge improvement over the factory stock.
Great stock upgrades
THANK YOU
I can see adding weight to a bigger caliber rifle like a 308 or 30-06 to reduce recoil but a 243? It’s not a hard kicking round to begin with. I have a Rossi youth single shot that came with a 243, 410, and 22 lr barrel and I can shoot the 243 with one hand and it barely kicks at all so it is really not worth adding the weight to this rifle
This is not a 243, it's a 6.5. It's not really about the kick. When you start shooting out to a mile you will understand.
@@243Outdoors only with a bipod I bet, not off of a bag or real rest for long distance. A long distance rest can be placed further back toward the trigger and the flex does not bother the barrel harmonics. course it needs to be floated. but who shoots a hunter stock 1k anyway. My friend hit a 20inch plate at 1k but it took him 100 rounds with his ruger 308 precision rifle, he actually thought that was good. I guess he didn't use a ballistic calculator just walked it in with 5 boxes of 35.00 a box loads.
Cold bore shot is off 3/4 in right at 50 yds? Any suggestions
What type of brake is that? Name and link to get one.
What did you use for the cheek piece?
How much did this improve accuracy?
Not much of he didn't reply....lol
What is the difference between the Ruger American with cerakote and a Ruger American Predator?
You mean like the Go Wild Camo model. Nothing except it's camo.
@Holy Lick It has a Go Wild Camo stock, bronze cerakote, AI Style magazine, and factory installed muzzle brake. It also costs around $100 more than the standard Ruger American Predator.
@@ratcamaro I just was given one that the young owner said it had a very hard extraction with a fired round, so much that he has loosened the bolt handle trying to eject a round. I came here to see how in the hell you get the screw under the mag release out without removing the release. what a crappy design to use a design on a different magwell design. So in the field you need a hammer and punch and 3/16 allen wrench just to get the stock off if you get caught in a rain or it gets in the mud somehow? damn, I have one of these in the box still but I'm not sure I will ever take it out except to sell it.
@@ratcamaro I just was given one that the young owner said it had a very hard extraction with a fired round, so much that he has loosened the bolt handle trying to eject a round. I came here to see how in the hell you get the screw under the mag release out without removing the release. what a crappy design to use a design on a different magwell design. So in the field you need a hammer and punch and 3/16 allen wrench just to get the stock off if you get caught in a rain or it gets in the mud somehow? damn, I have one of these in the box still but I'm not sure I will ever take it out except to sell it.
Why not just put a Boyd laminate stock on it?
Because some epoxy is a lot cheaper than the least expensive boyds...
What's so bad about boyds stocks?
Is the barrel floated?
What scope rings you got there
20% Ballistic gel no good ?
.
What brand of epoxy due you recommend then ? What specific one
I didn't use epoxy, I used Bondo Fiberglass. I used the long strain, and I would at least recommend the short strain. The long fibers were a little tough to get in place. A lot of people have used JB Weld.
You should do a reloading video for the 6.5
I will probably look back in to some 6.5 load development when the weather gets a little nicer.
Wheres the cheek riser from?
Matthew’s Fabrication
12LBS?!! WHY? I understand floating the barrel, but you've basically turned a hunting rifle into a bench-queen.
Yep bench queen is what I wanted. More weight the better.
Who cares if he's using it to hunt? An M1 garand weighed 11.5 lbs and dudes carried it just fine
@@Barnes-ml9wg Notice the military replaced the Garand for just that reason. Swapping 30-06 for 308, and then the M14 for the M16.
But to be fair, if you wanted a bench-queen on a budget, you'd do exactly what he's doing. So kudos I guess.
Looking at doing this to mine. Quick question. Would it still hold zero after the mods or would I need to resight?
It should hold zero or at least be extremely close.
What does adding the weight do?
Makes it heavier so ur arms are to tired to hold it up to shoot ur deer after luging it around all day
that's a lot of unnecessary weight for a hunting rifle
Bedding a Remington hogue stock
Anyone here have velocity from ruger American predator 6.5mm creedmoor with hornady precision hunter 143 gr eld-x below 1000 feet in elevation. Need info for a new scope on mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated
this is not going to cure the soft twisted stock. I had to strap the stock down and square everything. I then drilled a hole and used graphite rods for the entire length. then rods were inserted and checked for square again and clamped firmly in place. Light fibreglass rods in place, personally don't add weight.. Honestly the best thing to do is throw the piece of shit stock in the garbage. lol
I want the woobie haha
It’s a Harbor Freight camo moving blanket.
REALLY why..i can see free floating but the rest ...whatever..not saying your wrong but I'll pass but sure there's others who will go for it..good job on vid thou.best to you all's
Great informative video as always! I recently bought one of these in 6.5 creed and yesterday I posted a video of my accuracy. If you have time go check it out.
I actually watched it yesterday. That was some good shooting.
Thanks!
243 how are u
Doing good.
TOO HEAVY
😅
A Ruger American is like wearing plastic Chinese boots. Life is too short.
My ruger weighs 6 pounds this video made me cringe.
I agree. I bought a Ruger American Ranch because I wanted a light handy rifle. If I wanted a heavy precision rifle for long-range bench rest shooting, I would've bought one.
Just buy a wood stock