I build precision rifles and have used JB Weld for 25 years. Many of our rifles are Championship shooters. JB Weld performs better them all in real applications. Great job!
I have been using JB weld for years. I do add steel powder to thicken the mix. I bought atomized stainless steel metal powder from Brownells many years ago. It has worked fabulous. Nothing beats the compression strength than solid aluminum pillars. To be honest. I have not seen an accuracy difference between my standard JB weld and pillar bedding. The both have to be done correctly. I use kiwi shoe polish for a release agent without any problems. It works great.
JB Weld has worked well for me. I've bedded a Howa 1500 into a GRS Beserk composite stock which apparently can't be bedded. Two years on and and still holding strong... I also stabilised the fore-end with JB Weld and is very stable. the gun is a tack driver...
This has become my favorite channel. Glad I found it. Keep up the good detailed work. Good clear insight and alway telling it how it is from your actual experience. Love from the woods of Maine.
I repaired a crack in a cylinder head on a continental engine in a forklift +40 years ago with JB weld after failing trying to weld the crack twice but I didn’t have the right wire for the job. It worked famously and made a believer out of me. Since then I’ve repaired numerous things with excellent results. It does what the label says!!
Robert Gradous, a pro gunsmith, likes Marine Tex over the rest because of its low shrinkage by comparison. He carefully eyeballs the 5 to 1 ration, and gets fantastic results. His #2 youtube video is well worth a look, how he demonstrates a lot of pointers throughout the process. He gets pro shooters groups better than 1/4” with his skill. He even recommends the brake cleaner for metal parts cleaning; the Napa 4800. Ehen he’s done, he puts the barreled action in the stock with no screws and holds it upside down by the stock without supporting any metal. Nothing falls out. He says if your bedding job doesn’t do this, you did it wrong. This video is good, too. Lots to know about these projects.
If I buy a plastic stock ribbed and hollow butt. Like the Ruger American I will fill the butt and forend with Art/ Resin Hardner available from Amazon combined with JB Weld as per mix instructions. This will give you tremendous volume at a great price and it flows easy and levels nice . Rock hard.You don’t have to replace the stock if you think it is flimsy and cheap. Thanks for bragging up JB Weld . I’ve been on my own using it for 30 years. You made my day. Big smile on my face.
I have used stainless steel putty as well as many other products. When you bed a rifle that isn’t shooting a group less than 1 MOA at 100yd and improve the performance to 3 shots covered by a dime, the proof is in the pudding. I personally don’t care if you run a dead chicken’s leg over it and gave an incantation for that kind of performance. Bedding and trigger pull adjustment do more for a rifle than anything I know. When using JB Weld it is helpful to make dams to keep the bedding where you want it. Do not install the barrel and action until it has thickened to the consistency you want. Thanks for the video. Most important thing to remember when bedding is the release agent.
I've been using Brownells Acraglas Gel on wood stocks for decades and I've never had any strength or shrinkage issues with it. No problems with barrel cleaning solvents or gun oils attacking it either. The companion products Acraglas Release and Acraglas Solvent make it easy to use and clean up., plus they have color matching dyes to add in the mix. Never tried it on synthetic stocks though, I don't know how well it would adhere.
I have used JB Weld with great success in my bedding jobs. It is actually the only one I’ve used because as mentioned I can go into any local hardware and it’s always available and I’m just hobby level so I’m not worried about letting it set up for a few minutes before using it.
I've got to say I have used JB weld in 2 rifles and am impressed with the results. I have also used Belzona which is an incredible commercial product.. expensive, but I recommend. I went to the distributor and told them my intended application, bedding a rifle stock, and they recommended the particular product. Very helpful and super strong. All specs are available..
I loaned a chainsaw to a friend and it came back with a split gas tank. To fix it and replace the tank was going to cost almost as much as a new one. I cleaned and dried the tank as best as possible and slopped JB weld to the outside. Perfect repair. The gas never ate through the tank and the saw purred like a kitten for years keeping my house warm.
Jb weld on my mountain rifle. I’ve taken some real hard falls on it and the rifle hasn’t lost accuracy or zero. not to mention I have hundreds of rounds down the tube. So yea JB seems to be a good bedding compound.
I'm going out on a limb here but since I have used two of the three products presented on a rifle I am going to say Marine Tex is the best of the three. I have never been disappointed with the results I have obtained with it. Devcon let me down once so I gave up on it. Thanks for doing this feature DDO!
Devcon-F (10610) is the bedding compound I have used quite successfully for 60 years. I cannot imagine its relatively low compression strength ever being a problem in rifle bedding. It is an industrial product well worth its premium cost. If higher operating temperature is desired for some application, use Devcon titanium bearing epoxy (good to about 350 degrees F, IIRC). Jim Boatright Gunsmith, Ballistician, and former owner of Boatright Custom Guns, Inc.
I’ve been using JB Weld for a long time and it’s been working very well. To combat the runny tendency of JB Weld. I mixed in some glass micro balloons usually used in Radio control models building scene. It will thickens up and eliminates the runny nature of it.
Sincere compliments on your excellent quality postings. Being from Oz I see so much absolute rubbish posted from American tubers with with 90% being the classic "You shouldn't do this - But I will - Coz I'm awesome" and the remainder being "Wow - I'm awesome Coz I got a gun". I particularly like your vids for information content, honesty and balanced perspective including this one, African hunts, Headlamps, Leica products, Shooting sticks and especially your Long range ethics video. For over 30 years I've been a competitive international Fullbore (Palma), Clay Target (Skeet) and Smallbore (Olympic) shooter / Reloader / Mad Reader of shooting books (Ackley, reloading manuals, etc) / Hunter (deer, varmint and pest destruction) and serving Army officer (Major) - So I believe I have sufficient experience and knowledge base to make this comment. Really looking forward to more quality material on your channel.
I flew one way ticket to Colorado from Minnesota to buy my Duramax. I got there and popped the hood to notice the aluminum alternator bracket was JB-welded together. I rolled the dice and bought the truck. That was 7 years ago and 60,000 miles, through -40f, to know how hot that turbo diesel gets under hood, it is still holding strong. It vibrates a lot and has a big alternator for dual batteries. I'm a believer.
For my little gun shop I use the Brownells brand bedding compound. It's true that people turn up their noses to jb weld but it does do a great job. If the brown dye would work on it I'd use it for wood stocks
Wow I didn't know any of this and I need to bed a stock. Thought I had to order some arc glass. Don't have to go anywhere but the garage Sweet . THANKS!
I like bedding to be a little runnier so it flows into tight places easier. First stuff I used was original acraglas and it turned out smooth and complete and squeezed out pretty easily. The gel stuff is a little harder to get squeezed out thoroughly and I had a couple voids to fill in. But I'm using JBWeld currently. Acraglas can get messy.
watched this video a few times. I ended up getting a small pack of JB weld for $22 au. different product number but...same product. Devcon was bit expensive and not easily available as stated...in Australia too. Could have ordered online...but...when I saw it in a car shop so cheap... decision made. Have since bedded rem 700...first time effort...and bedded floor plate. I did not find issue with JB Weld being too runny. mixing 1:1 makes life easy . Have since ordered a larger pack..as you listed of JB Weld to perhaps bed the floor plates on other rem 700 and rem 788s....and glue knife handles onto zip knife made from chainsaw bar...with brass cross pins... ... thanks for posting...was useful indeed.
Have used all three and find your comparison to be on-target. Marine Tex is best overall, IMHO, but JB Weld is highly underrated. Only downside to JB Weld other than what you highlighted is that it tends to be a bit brittle in thin sections. Marine Tex is fabulous, but a bit tricky to use, especially the measurement part. But, JB Weld works just fine and that is what I use nowadays...
I think one thing people don't talk about enough is bedding will not make a bad rifle better, if a barrel isn't any good (oversized, undersized, thoat erosion, etc) it's not going to shoot no matter what you do to it or how much money you spend, but with a good barrel, essentially you're changing your barrel harmonics, when I glass bed my rifles I do a full action bed with the half of the chamber bedded also, I've noticed a lot of times they will shoot great like that, especially on large Magnum, calibers or heavy barrels, and then if it doesn't shoot like I think it should, I'll come back with a Dremel and make sure the barrel is completely free-floated and that will usually do the trick
Glad to see you're back safe and sound from Africa, DD! You've got a great tan now! 🥳 If you're taking video suggestions, I'd love to see a 30-45 minute long video titled "Beginner's Guide to the Lever Drag Conventional Reel for Ocean Sportfishing." (No levelwind) I just dropped $600 on an Okuma rail rod (PCH Custom, 7'4", 80-130lbs) and an Okuma Solterra SLX-30II (two-speed conventional reel without levelwind). I have no idea what I'm doing but you know what: I'm going on a 12 hour charter this Tuesday after the hurricane passes and going to try and troll with this rod for mahi, bluefin, and yellowfin. So many online fishing gurus only tell you 80% of what you need to know and somehow that lost 20% contains super important stuff. I've been watching videos on ocean conventional rods for four weeks now and only just today learned you can calibrate your lever drag reel's drag using a special nut on the right, middle of the reel 😱 How is it no one mentioned that before?! See Okuma's YT video about calibrating your lever drag. I've got one year's experience fishing freshwater and saltwater with various Daiwa BG spinning reels at your suggestion (4000, 5000, and 8000) but this is my first conventional reel and conventional rod. I opted for a rail rod so as to minimize strain on my left arm since I've got a bad left shoulder.
Just tried JB weld for the first time to glue in some metal shims in my H&R fore end to float it. Luckily sprayed some Frankfurt arsenal graphite mold release spray on the bolt and sleeve. It still stuck but easily broke free. The graphite spray wasn’t easy to remove from the metal after wards either. I’m tired of buying Acraglass and having a short shelf life and brake down after 6 months. I bed one rifle and the 95% what’s left never gets used and is worthless because it won’t set because it sat to long.
I never thought to let the JB Weld sit for a few minutes, in order to thicken it. I used to think it was just way to runny, and would spread all over the place. I’m going to try a little skim bedding first. You should have mention something about a release agent. I use the clear Kiwi polish, but there could be something better. I always learn something new on here.
Hi Frank! If you're familiar with Cavedweller 1959, he swears by Hornady One Shot Case Lube as a release agent. I've never tried it but I think I'm going to. 😃
@@luvtahandload7692 Hey Luvta, that causes me to wonder about Imperial Case Sizing Wax from Redding. I will say, the Kiwi works really well, and very easy to find.
@@falba1492 I used imperial sizing wax, as suggested by my gun smith...I found it released well on main part of job, but slightly stuck where thin excess came out..if I go again...maybe kiwi shoe...maybe Hornady one shot ... release agents make me nervous...as new to bedding..🤣👍
JB Weld is great stuff, but not really great as a weld agent lol. Great for building up surfaces and can be sanded, formed, drilled and tapped, etc. I will be trying for bedding soon.
Thank you so much for the informative video. Question though: can you use the standard release sprays when using JB Weld for bedding? Or does something work better?
Your advice just could be invaluable. It seems that I have been buying the wrong KIND of JBW. It is three times the price of the wrong stuff but who cares if it works.
Ive moved away from jb weld only due to the working consistency. Too runny for me personally. However Ive used on a few mausers and worked flawlessly. Id love to buy devcon but at minimum sizing of 1lb im out. Marinetex Ive had luck now finding at any marina that does repair work
Great video and great info. I used JBW on a B&C stock and did the upside down test ala Bob Gradous - didn't fall out! Any thoughts on whether one of these compounds is better on an aluminum chassis stock? I've heard Devcon is better, but I've also heard just rough it up and use any of 'em. Thanks!
I do both methods, depending on the stock and/or application. The first technique you described is usually referred to as "Skim Bedding". The second technique is a "full bedding job", which usually involves lots of inletting.
I own firearms and I also own guitars. I have one guitar that I'm thinking about bedding so that's why I'm here. I have this issue with sustain where I can play a note and it just doesn't ring out long enough for my standards. I don't know if you are experienced with electric guitars but you can get guitars in a solid body or a bolt on. The bolt on is where 4 screws hold the neck of the guitar to the body and that's what I have that I'm thinking about bedding. My idea is if I can make the guitar more solid, then it makes sense that it would increase sustain. I mean think about it, what deadens frequencies? Insulators right? To some extent, wood is an insulator, kind of like rubber but not nearly as drastic. But there is some insulation occuring between the entire length of the guitar neck and body, essentially soaking up frequency. So what I would like to do is pillar and bed the guitar neck to the body and then bed the neck so not only will it have a tight fit, but it will be rock solid after it's all done. Maybe it'll have a placebo effect but that's okay, I think it will be a fun experiment.
Can I please have a couple of suggestions for a release agent? I'm having trouble finding the exact brands up here in Canada. I'm leaning to mothers carnuba car wax
I have pre 64 30-06 that I picked up and I love the rifle, I know this is more of a personal preference question but would bed a pre 64 win or leave it be my other rifles are bedded and I think every rifled should be bedded but I have hesitations about bedding a pre 64 model 70 just because of what it is, what would you do ? The rifle is a pre war model and it was drilled and tapped for a redfield jr base so it's not completely original .
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 I was just wondering what the specs are, because it's actually pretty important. Marine-tex is known to have less shrinkage then Devcon, but I was wondering more about the JB Weld
I had no idea. You have certainly given me a lot to think about and some things to consider I never thought of before such as a compression issue. If I can deal with the mixing requirements of marinetex that sounds like what I would prefer. I subscribed your channel. Thanks
How do you know "nothing comes close"? Do you know the adhesion strength, compression strength, tensile strength, heat resistance rating, and shore hardness of the Pro-Bed 2000? Other bedding compounds give you these numbers, Pro-bed refuses to give you their numbers. I've used them all, including pro-bed, and I doubt it's better (just more expensive).
Horrible advise!!!!! To my viewers: don't follow this! Auto body filler is way too soft and brittle for a bedding compound. It also has a poor working time and consistency. And the worst thing of all; Auto body fillers are lack chemical resistance, and break down upon contact with many gun cleaning solvents.
Looks like JB weld is the "winner chicken dinner." Adding some stainless steel seals the deal- LOL. @looseballs1966 1 year ago As a mechanic is where I have the most personal experience with any of these as well I have used old acriglass and brownells stuff on certain gun projects years ago and with good enough results, as far as JB weld I have used it quite a bit in all kinds of motor vehicle repairs with most always great results and at least good enough results to fix what needed to be fixed it will however not maintain a bond on some surfaces without some involved surface prep because in cars and what not you are fighting things like oil and chemical absorbtion into the base material, however one trick to both thicken and add a bit of extra strength to the JB weld is to mix it with stainless steel powder (or atomized stainless steel), I have done this is some pretty critical areas on a couple fixes such as even threads for a head to camshaft jornal on an engine and it is still hold to my knowledge several years later and prevented my costly repair options,,,,so yes JB is a pretty darn good product in my book. and in the future as I have in recent times I will without hesitation use JB weld on pretty much any gun repair or bedding work if it need be and otherwise appropriate.
I build precision rifles and have used JB Weld for 25 years. Many of our rifles are Championship shooters. JB Weld performs better them all in real applications. Great job!
What release agents do you use?
Great unbiased vid. Like the fact you provided stats and rationale for your conclusions. Thanks
I have been using JB weld for years. I do add steel powder to thicken the mix. I bought atomized stainless steel metal powder from Brownells many years ago. It has worked fabulous. Nothing beats the compression strength than solid aluminum pillars. To be honest. I have not seen an accuracy difference between my standard JB weld and pillar bedding. The both have to be done correctly. I use kiwi shoe polish for a release agent without any problems. It works great.
interesting additive ..thanks for mentioning
JB Weld has worked well for me. I've bedded a Howa 1500 into a GRS Beserk composite stock which apparently can't be bedded. Two years on and and still holding strong... I also stabilised the fore-end with JB Weld and is very stable. the gun is a tack driver...
Composite stocks don't require bedding. The inletting is accurately moulded. Bedding is only required to correct errors in the inletting.
This has become my favorite channel. Glad I found it. Keep up the good detailed work. Good clear insight and alway telling it how it is from your actual experience. Love from the woods of Maine.
I repaired a crack in a cylinder head on a continental engine in a forklift +40 years ago with JB weld after failing trying to weld the crack twice but I didn’t have the right wire for the job. It worked famously and made a believer out of me. Since then I’ve repaired numerous things with excellent results. It does what the label says!!
Robert Gradous, a pro gunsmith, likes Marine Tex over the rest because of its low shrinkage by comparison. He carefully eyeballs the 5 to 1 ration, and gets fantastic results. His #2 youtube video is well worth a look, how he demonstrates a lot of pointers throughout the process. He gets pro shooters groups better than 1/4” with his skill. He even recommends the brake cleaner for metal parts cleaning; the Napa 4800. Ehen he’s done, he puts the barreled action in the stock with no screws and holds it upside down by the stock without supporting any metal. Nothing falls out. He says if your bedding job doesn’t do this, you did it wrong. This video is good, too. Lots to know about these projects.
If I buy a plastic stock ribbed and hollow butt. Like the Ruger American I will fill the butt and forend with Art/ Resin Hardner available from Amazon combined with JB Weld as per mix instructions. This will give you tremendous volume at a great price and it flows easy and levels nice . Rock hard.You don’t have to replace the stock if you think it is flimsy and cheap. Thanks for bragging up JB Weld . I’ve been on my own using it for 30 years. You made my day. Big smile on my face.
I have used stainless steel putty as well as many other products. When you bed a rifle that isn’t shooting a group less than 1 MOA at 100yd and improve the performance to 3 shots covered by a dime, the proof is in the pudding. I personally don’t care if you run a dead chicken’s leg over it and gave an incantation for that kind of performance. Bedding and trigger pull adjustment do more for a rifle than anything I know. When using JB Weld it is helpful to make dams to keep the bedding where you want it. Do not install the barrel and action until it has thickened to the consistency you want. Thanks for the video. Most important thing to remember when bedding is the release agent.
I've been using Brownells Acraglas Gel on wood stocks for decades and I've never had any strength or shrinkage issues with it. No problems with barrel cleaning solvents or gun oils attacking it either. The companion products Acraglas Release and Acraglas Solvent make it easy to use and clean up., plus they have color matching dyes to add in the mix. Never tried it on synthetic stocks though, I don't know how well it would adhere.
This helped me select JB weld with facts and how it compares to other options dismissing all myths.... good day sammy
I have used JB Weld with great success in my bedding jobs. It is actually the only one I’ve used because as mentioned I can go into any local hardware and it’s always available and I’m just hobby level so I’m not worried about letting it set up for a few minutes before using it.
I've got to say I have used JB weld in 2 rifles and am impressed with the results. I have also used Belzona which is an incredible commercial product.. expensive, but I recommend. I went to the distributor and told them my intended application, bedding a rifle stock, and they recommended the particular product. Very helpful and super strong. All specs are available..
I loaned a chainsaw to a friend and it came back with a split gas tank. To fix it and replace the tank was going to cost almost as much as a new one. I cleaned and dried the tank as best as possible and slopped JB weld to the outside. Perfect repair. The gas never ate through the tank and the saw purred like a kitten for years keeping my house warm.
Jb weld on my mountain rifle. I’ve taken some real hard falls on it and the rifle hasn’t lost accuracy or zero. not to mention I have hundreds of rounds down the tube. So yea JB seems to be a good bedding compound.
I have used JB Weld a handfull of times, no disapointments.
I'm going out on a limb here but since I have used two of the three products presented on a rifle I am going to say Marine Tex is the best of the three. I have never been disappointed with the results I have obtained with it. Devcon let me down once so I gave up on it. Thanks for doing this feature DDO!
I have to wonder if the JB Weld would handle easier if it was mixed with a filler like powdered aluminum? Anyone with an idea?
@@hillbillyscholar8126 atomized stainless steel metal powder from Brownells as per one of the comments.
I’ve used Devcon with Boyd’s stocks (twice). Not a professional but turned out pretty good.
Devcon-F (10610) is the bedding compound I have used quite successfully for 60 years. I cannot imagine its relatively low compression strength ever being a problem in rifle bedding. It is an industrial product well worth its premium cost. If higher operating temperature is desired for some application, use Devcon titanium bearing epoxy (good to about 350 degrees F, IIRC).
Jim Boatright
Gunsmith, Ballistician, and former owner of Boatright Custom Guns, Inc.
This is excellent information as always sir. Thank you for sharing this video. You have one of the very best channels for us shooters and hunters.
I’ve been using JB Weld for a long time and it’s been working very well. To combat the runny tendency of JB Weld. I mixed in some glass micro balloons usually used in Radio control models building scene. It will thickens up and eliminates the runny nature of it.
Sincere compliments on your excellent quality postings. Being from Oz I see so much absolute rubbish posted from American tubers with with 90% being the classic "You shouldn't do this - But I will - Coz I'm awesome" and the remainder being "Wow - I'm awesome Coz I got a gun". I particularly like your vids for information content, honesty and balanced perspective including this one, African hunts, Headlamps, Leica products, Shooting sticks and especially your Long range ethics video. For over 30 years I've been a competitive international Fullbore (Palma), Clay Target (Skeet) and Smallbore (Olympic) shooter / Reloader / Mad Reader of shooting books (Ackley, reloading manuals, etc) / Hunter (deer, varmint and pest destruction) and serving Army officer (Major) - So I believe I have sufficient experience and knowledge base to make this comment. Really looking forward to more quality material on your channel.
Hahaha, your a funny guy.
I flew one way ticket to Colorado from Minnesota to buy my Duramax. I got there and popped the hood to notice the aluminum alternator bracket was JB-welded together. I rolled the dice and bought the truck. That was 7 years ago and 60,000 miles, through -40f, to know how hot that turbo diesel gets under hood, it is still holding strong. It vibrates a lot and has a big alternator for dual batteries. I'm a believer.
For my little gun shop I use the Brownells brand bedding compound. It's true that people turn up their noses to jb weld but it does do a great job. If the brown dye would work on it I'd use it for wood stocks
Wow I didn't know any of this and I need to bed a stock. Thought I had to order some arc glass. Don't have to go anywhere but the garage Sweet . THANKS!
Great info, thanks for providing the links....Marine-Tex all the way...
I once used Brownell's Acra-Glas...It did a fantastic job.
I have always used JB Weld on my McMillan stocks. McMillan uses Marine tex but they told me over the phone that JB Weld is as good or better.
I like bedding to be a little runnier so it flows into tight places easier. First stuff I used was original acraglas and it turned out smooth and complete and squeezed out pretty easily. The gel stuff is a little harder to get squeezed out thoroughly and I had a couple voids to fill in. But I'm using JBWeld currently. Acraglas can get messy.
watched this video a few times.
I ended up getting a small pack of JB weld for $22 au. different product number but...same product.
Devcon was bit expensive and not easily available as stated...in Australia too.
Could have ordered online...but...when I saw it in a car shop so cheap... decision made.
Have since bedded rem 700...first time effort...and bedded floor plate.
I did not find issue with JB Weld being too runny.
mixing 1:1 makes life easy .
Have since ordered a larger pack..as you listed of JB Weld to perhaps bed the floor plates on other rem 700 and rem 788s....and glue knife handles onto zip knife made from chainsaw bar...with brass cross pins...
...
thanks for posting...was useful indeed.
Have used all three and find your comparison to be on-target. Marine Tex is best overall, IMHO, but JB Weld is highly underrated. Only downside to JB Weld other than what you highlighted is that it tends to be a bit brittle in thin sections. Marine Tex is fabulous, but a bit tricky to use, especially the measurement part. But, JB Weld works just fine and that is what I use nowadays...
I think one thing people don't talk about enough is bedding will not make a bad rifle better, if a barrel isn't any good (oversized, undersized, thoat erosion, etc) it's not going to shoot no matter what you do to it or how much money you spend, but with a good barrel, essentially you're changing your barrel harmonics, when I glass bed my rifles I do a full action bed with the half of the chamber bedded also, I've noticed a lot of times they will shoot great like that, especially on large Magnum, calibers or heavy barrels, and then if it doesn't shoot like I think it should, I'll come back with a Dremel and make sure the barrel is completely free-floated and that will usually do the trick
Awesome man…Thank You!
Fantastic video!
Thank you!!
Glad to see you're back safe and sound from Africa, DD! You've got a great tan now! 🥳
If you're taking video suggestions, I'd love to see a 30-45 minute long video titled "Beginner's Guide to the Lever Drag Conventional Reel for Ocean Sportfishing." (No levelwind)
I just dropped $600 on an Okuma rail rod (PCH Custom, 7'4", 80-130lbs) and an Okuma Solterra SLX-30II (two-speed conventional reel without levelwind). I have no idea what I'm doing but you know what: I'm going on a 12 hour charter this Tuesday after the hurricane passes and going to try and troll with this rod for mahi, bluefin, and yellowfin.
So many online fishing gurus only tell you 80% of what you need to know and somehow that lost 20% contains super important stuff. I've been watching videos on ocean conventional rods for four weeks now and only just today learned you can calibrate your lever drag reel's drag using a special nut on the right, middle of the reel 😱 How is it no one mentioned that before?! See Okuma's YT video about calibrating your lever drag.
I've got one year's experience fishing freshwater and saltwater with various Daiwa BG spinning reels at your suggestion (4000, 5000, and 8000) but this is my first conventional reel and conventional rod. I opted for a rail rod so as to minimize strain on my left arm since I've got a bad left shoulder.
Thanks DD for this interesting and useful video.
Marine tex has been used for a very long time. It's the one I've used to bed actions and texture stocks
They made a small engine head out of JB Weld and ran it for hours...thats good enough for me.
Just tried JB weld for the first time to glue in some metal shims in my H&R fore end to float it. Luckily sprayed some Frankfurt arsenal graphite mold release spray on the bolt and sleeve. It still stuck but easily broke free. The graphite spray wasn’t easy to remove from the metal after wards either. I’m tired of buying Acraglass and having a short shelf life and brake down after 6 months. I bed one rifle and the 95% what’s left never gets used and is worthless because it won’t set because it sat to long.
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
I never thought to let the JB Weld sit for a few minutes, in order to thicken it. I used to think it was just way to runny, and would spread all over the place. I’m going to try a little skim bedding first.
You should have mention something about a release agent. I use the clear Kiwi polish, but there could be something better.
I always learn something new on here.
Hi Frank!
If you're familiar with Cavedweller 1959, he swears by Hornady One Shot Case Lube as a release agent. I've never tried it but I think I'm going to. 😃
@@luvtahandload7692 Hey Luvta, that causes me to wonder about Imperial Case Sizing Wax from Redding. I will say, the Kiwi works really well, and very easy to find.
I use Parting Compound from "Score High Gunsmithing". Before that, I used Kiwi neutral shoe polish.
@@falba1492 I used imperial sizing wax, as suggested by my gun smith...I found it released well on main part of job, but slightly stuck where thin excess came out..if I go again...maybe kiwi shoe...maybe Hornady one shot ...
release agents make me nervous...as new to bedding..🤣👍
if you add milled (chopped fibers) fiberglass you can thicken it up (JB weld) and it makes any Epoxy stronger.
Thank you very informative!
Thanks for posting this.
Used all three I like marine tex the most
Marine Tex is my favorite as well.
Allterra Rifles uses JB weld for pillar and glass bedding 😂. It's definitely legit. Those are $7,000 rifles.
Allterra uses Devcon 10110
@@iBleedStarsAndBars They use both.
JB Weld is great stuff, but not really great as a weld agent lol. Great for building up surfaces and can be sanded, formed, drilled and tapped, etc.
I will be trying for bedding soon.
Thank you so much for the informative video. Question though: can you use the standard release sprays when using JB Weld for bedding? Or does something work better?
You can use any release agent you typically utilize for any epoxy bedding job.
What does compression strength mean in this context?
might mean doesn't compress much when action tightened to stock..less springy ..
I use jb weld to bed as well
Why don’t they do this straight away from the factory?
Way too much work and time to do it properly
If you want a thicker jb weld.. add a little fumed silica.
Your advice just could be invaluable. It seems that I have been buying the wrong KIND of JBW. It is three times the price of the wrong stuff but who cares if it works.
i always use jb weld
Desert Dog, what do you use for a release agent when using JB Weld? Thank You.
I use Parting Compound from "Score High Gunsmithing".
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 Thank you.
Ive moved away from jb weld only due to the working consistency. Too runny for me personally. However Ive used on a few mausers and worked flawlessly. Id love to buy devcon but at minimum sizing of 1lb im out. Marinetex Ive had luck now finding at any marina that does repair work
Great video and great info. I used JBW on a B&C stock and did the upside down test ala Bob Gradous - didn't fall out! Any thoughts on whether one of these compounds is better on an aluminum chassis stock? I've heard Devcon is better, but I've also heard just rough it up and use any of 'em. Thanks!
Inlet where needed, rough it up, clean and degrease, then bed away!
Do you bed just the barrel nut, recoil lug, and rear tang or everything from the nut to the rear tang?
I do both methods, depending on the stock and/or application. The first technique you described is usually referred to as "Skim Bedding". The second technique is a "full bedding job", which usually involves lots of inletting.
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 thanks
Thanks for sharing this information. This video alone convinced me to subscribe to your channel.
👍👍good information
Used it many times.
Only thing you left out is what to use to coat the gun with…(so it doesn’t stick)
I use Parting Compound from "Score High Gunsmithing"
Devcon I found was not runny enough, and as a result is a bit hard to apply. It needs to be a bit more viscose in my opinion.
I own firearms and I also own guitars. I have one guitar that I'm thinking about bedding so that's why I'm here. I have this issue with sustain where I can play a note and it just doesn't ring out long enough for my standards. I don't know if you are experienced with electric guitars but you can get guitars in a solid body or a bolt on. The bolt on is where 4 screws hold the neck of the guitar to the body and that's what I have that I'm thinking about bedding. My idea is if I can make the guitar more solid, then it makes sense that it would increase sustain. I mean think about it, what deadens frequencies? Insulators right? To some extent, wood is an insulator, kind of like rubber but not nearly as drastic. But there is some insulation occuring between the entire length of the guitar neck and body, essentially soaking up frequency. So what I would like to do is pillar and bed the guitar neck to the body and then bed the neck so not only will it have a tight fit, but it will be rock solid after it's all done. Maybe it'll have a placebo effect but that's okay, I think it will be a fun experiment.
Why not use wood glue for the guitar neck to body bond? It's probably what is used for the rest of the guitar.
I use JB Weld paste in the squeeze tubes and it will not run
What release agents would you recommend for different bedding compounds? Would you use anything different with JB weld than anything else?
I use Score High Gunsmithing "Parting Compound".
Can I please have a couple of suggestions for a release agent? I'm having trouble finding the exact brands up here in Canada. I'm leaning to mothers carnuba car wax
You can get this anywhere and it works great: amzn.to/4egwkZ4
Is that a surgeon action from Preston Pichard in the title pic ?
It's a Stiller action fitted with a Shilen Barrel, bedded into a Manners stock.
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 good looking setup
I have pre 64 30-06 that I picked up and I love the rifle, I know this is more of a personal preference question but would bed a pre 64 win or leave it be my other rifles are bedded and I think every rifled should be bedded but I have hesitations about bedding a pre 64 model 70 just because of what it is, what would you do ? The rifle is a pre war model and it was drilled and tapped for a redfield jr base so it's not completely original .
I would definitely bed it.
Can you mix in things like Aluminum powder in with JB Weld? Or is it even worth it? And how paintable is JB Weld when its fully cured?
Jb weld is paintable after sanding.
what about shrinkage?
If you use the products outlined in this video, you won't have to worry about that.
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 I was just wondering what the specs are, because it's actually pretty important. Marine-tex is known to have less shrinkage then Devcon, but I was wondering more about the JB Weld
The comparison is helpful, thanks. But Accraglass is hardly ever used anymore? Really?
@@jeffdavis7356 I don't know of any custom rifle builders and top gunsmiths using it anymore.
I had no idea. You have certainly given me a lot to think about and some things to consider I never thought of before such as a compression issue. If I can deal with the mixing requirements of marinetex that sounds like what I would prefer. I subscribed your channel. Thanks
Anyone have a handle on how fumed mica affects compressive strength in JB Weld?
Nobody will have that data. I suggest you mix yourself a batch and send it to an ASTM testing laboratory.
How does accurglass compare to these three?
Nobody knows. They refuse publish lab-testing data for the product. Because of that, it's safe to assume it's weaker than a product like Marine Tex.
jb weld putty ?
👌👍
Please show me how to bed a rifle step by step. I really like your style and communication.
Every different rifle design must be bedded differently.
Probed 2000
Nothing comes close.
How do you know "nothing comes close"? Do you know the adhesion strength, compression strength, tensile strength, heat resistance rating, and shore hardness of the Pro-Bed 2000? Other bedding compounds give you these numbers, Pro-bed refuses to give you their numbers. I've used them all, including pro-bed, and I doubt it's better (just more expensive).
Car body filler would do the job just as good.
Horrible advise!!!!! To my viewers: don't follow this! Auto body filler is way too soft and brittle for a bedding compound. It also has a poor working time and consistency. And the worst thing of all; Auto body fillers are lack chemical resistance, and break down upon contact with many gun cleaning solvents.
Looks like JB weld is the "winner chicken dinner."
Adding some stainless steel seals the deal- LOL.
@looseballs1966
1 year ago
As a mechanic is where I have the most personal experience with any of these as well I have used old acriglass and brownells stuff on certain gun projects years ago and with good enough results, as far as JB weld I have used it quite a bit in all kinds of motor vehicle repairs with most always great results and at least good enough results to fix what needed to be fixed it will however not maintain a bond on some surfaces without some involved surface prep because in cars and what not you are fighting things like oil and chemical absorbtion into the base material, however one trick to both thicken and add a bit of extra strength to the JB weld is to mix it with stainless steel powder (or atomized stainless steel), I have done this is some pretty critical areas on a couple fixes such as even threads for a head to camshaft jornal on an engine and it is still hold to my knowledge several years later and prevented my costly repair options,,,,so yes JB is a pretty darn good product in my book. and in the future as I have in recent times I will without hesitation use JB weld on pretty much any gun repair or bedding work if it need be and otherwise appropriate.