Thank you Jody. That was EXACTLY the type of video I was going to ask you for. Starting from a stop and going through the gears a few times. Tells me more about the sound quality than a constant cruising speed. They sound great! I wonder if the popping sound on slowing down might mean you will want to go to a bit larger carburetor jets? I test drove a 2002 Midnight Venture with Bub mufflers. While they sounded great on startup and when the owner was going around the block, they were too loud for my taste while I was riding the bike. It was a short test ride too. The 1st time I rode it the tires were low on air and it was hard to steer. Tried again after air was added. Tires better but the oil light came on a couple of times. When I asked the owner about that, he couldn't remember if he added oil this not.
After those two things I figured that told me everything I needed to know about how well the bike was maintained so I passed. Gorgeous bike too. About 50k miles on it. The miles wouldn't have scared me if it was maintained better.
Yeah, you don't want to get a bunch of trouble and spend more time fixing than riding. I jut bought a 2000 Venture with 9k miles on it and it basically runs like a new bike.
@@JimmyFord-iw5my sorry, I didn’t see this question until here in May 2024. No I did not have to do any carburetor adjustments. But, I put the stock mufflers back on. These hog mufflers are just too loud for my taste. It’s hard to describe. But the sound, the noise actually was Applying pressure to my whole body. I could feel the exhaust Concussion inside my brain. that sounds crazy, but when I would shut the bike off to get gas, or to take a break while riding with these hog mufflers, it was a relief over my whole body when I shut that sound off.. I thought the muffler is being totally stock, would not be as intrusive as they are, and I even wear earplugs. I put these mufflers on so that I could hear the engine exhaust in my videos on TH-cam. Because my microphone is mounted inside my helmet, just over the engine, I hear, mostly engine, mechanical ticks, and clicks and whining of the primary gears more than I hear exhaust. So I thought I would give it a try, but I’m back to the stock mufflers. My riding buddy Jerry thanked me for putting the stock mufflers back on also. He said it was pretty loud when I would be on the gas going up a steep hill..
I'm curious, did you change your jets at all? I added some V&H Monster Oval lookalikes and K&N air cleaners and she ran with 1/4 choke only but that was also with a small carb leak that finally grew to a constant drip when running. So I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and upped the pilot jets from 15 to 20 and upped the front mains to 122.5 and rears to 125 on recommendation from 6sigma Jet Kits. Pilot screws set to 3-1/4 turns out. Put it all back together and she fired right up with some after fire and flame from the left pipe but ran good and strong for about a day without choke otherwise. Couldn't choke at all or she would stall. So tried adjusting fuel screws in to 3 turns (no dice), 2-3/4 turns (no dice), 2-1/2 turns (no dice). Sometimes would start throughout these adjustments but ran rough then stalled before I could adjust up or down from that point. Had tried to fine tune the pilot screws down a little to get rid of the flame (liked the pops but not the flame). But she wouldn't hold idle and eventually cranks, wouldn't start anymore even at the original 3-1/4 turns. I have since learned about the AIS that induces air into the exhaust to burn off unburned fuel. Disabled that but still won't start. So, starting from 1 turn, I am now at 4 turns out and she still won't start. Others things done: during original rebuild, replaced fuel pump and filter. After stall issues: Replaced weak battery, and got new Iridium spark plugs. Just need the cleaner and oil for the air filters. Going back to it after work today. Ordered one size larger and one size smaller jets and will set float levels. She will be running, oh yes. She will be.
are you sure you do not have a vacuum leak. Possibly cracks in the rubber intake, manifolds, possibly someone had the manifolds off and they did not seal. what did the spark plugs look like? Were they wet, were they dry and very light brown or tan? what is your altitude? Are you at sea level, or are you in Denver on mile above sea level or even higher? are you sure the enriching circuit plungers are closing completely?? when you pull out that lever that says choke, that is not a choke that closes off the air, that is what is known as an enriching circuit, it pulls up for plungers, you will see them, go up and down in and out of the carburetor floats, as you pull up and down on that choke lever, that is not a choke, it’s an enriching circuit it adds more fuel for starting.. if those things are not going all the way down and sealing the opening in the float bowl, then the bike is going to be constantly running, rich on one or more cylinders.. Or your carburetor heaters energized? These carburetors have heaters on them for a reason. is it possible that you used carburetor cleaner, which happens to be an acid, on the vacuum diaphragms in the vacuum chambers on tops of the carburetors under those domes.. If one or more of those have had carburetor cleaner on them, they could have holes in them. They operate by vacuum. When you turn the throttle, you are not raising the slides, you are just operating system of vacuum .. those vacuum diaphragms, which look like a little speaker cones, or what raise and lower the slides in the carburetors.. under each of those vacuum pots on top of your carburetors, is a vacuum, diaphragm, and there are four tiny O-rings also inside those vacuum domes.. are you sure those O-rings are in there and properly installed? when you make jetting changes, you need to do one change at a time so that you know whether it works or not to go back to the previous setting. If you change three things or five things at one time, you don’t know which one is giving you problems now.. if you are not at sea level, I would go back to the stock jetting. You only need to go fatter on the Jets when you are at sea level because there is more air at sea level than there is in Denver or Mexico City where are they are over a mile above sea level, and the bike would run like crap because they would be overly rich.. fancy spark plugs do not give you a better spark, if you need a hotter spark, you have to change your coils to do that stock DPR8EA-9 NGK spark plugs are all you need. Just never buy your spark plugs on eBay because there is a big chance they will be counterfeit. If you can get the washer off of an NGK spark plug easily, it’s counterfeit… While you are under there, use dielectric grease on your spark plug wires all the way from the coil to the spark, plug, cap, and coat the caps with that silicone dielectric grease. Those spark plug caps, get old, and they are in a hostile hot environment. They can develop Leaks that act like fuel problems. My honda nt700 owner is known for that problem once the spark plug Caps get old, Honda almost did a worldwide recall to replace the spark plug caps on these machines. My machine when I bought it had fuel problems and hesitation problems. I thought it was a both caused by fuel problems, which was a blocked fuel filter, but I had two problems, the second being bad, spark, plug caps. I installed new caps, and coated the wires with dielectric. Grease. Runs perfect now, and starts absolutely instantly now.. that’s what I would do, check for vacuum leaks, check the O-rings under those domes And check the vacuum, diaphragms themselves for holes. This may seem like a dumb statement, but also make sure that the slides are not in backwards, I don’t know if it’s possible to put them in backwards on the Venture carburetors, but I have seen people put the slides in backwards on other carburetors.. then I would clean and coat the spark plug wires with dielectric silicone grease I would go back totwo turns out.. are you using the stock airbox and air cleaners? That could give you problems. There is a science to designing air boxes. The same science they apply to making airplane wings and propellers. Most air boxes today give you about four or 5% more horsepower in the mid range compared to having no air cleaners.. check your side, stand switch, your clutch lever switch to make sure that they are operating, spray them with some light oil like LPS and work the switch to make sure that it is cycling on and off. I had a side stand switch partially malfunction on me one time, the bike started running bad, my gauges started cycling, I was afraid to shut the bike off, and I rode it for over 130 miles nonstop all the way home, only to find out that the side stance which was intermittent. it was dirty because of chain lube, not making that complete circuit to allow the ignition system to work.. Are you sure there are no mice inside your air cleaner. They like to build nests inside air cleaners. I bought a SAAB one time…. it quit running 2 miles from home The day I bought it. I had to have it towed home. When I started investigating, I opened the air cleaner end. It had about 2 pounds of mice, bedding, and little shells that the mice were eating, and there was even a snake skin about 18 inches long in there inside the air cleaner housing. That’s what made my car not start.. Air, gas, spark, once you make sure you have all three of those, then go back to all your stock settings, 2 1/2 turns out, stock, jetting, new NGK spark plugs, which you can get at advance auto, they stock NGK’s .. One other little thing, turn your key on, turn your Killswitch to off, and push the start button. A red light should come on below your dashboard, green neutral light. That is a test of your low oil level warning system. These machines do not have a low oil pressure warning system. They only warn you if your oil level is low before you can have low pressure damage. I’ve never heard of a problem like that with Venture, but just check it. Some cars back in the 70s by General Motors would shut power off to the fuel pump if the oil pressure Was low. The Chevy Vega did that. Let me know what you find.
@@Jodyrides Wow, that's a response. I appreciate the review and real answers for me to do some troubleshooting. Like I said. it ran like a champ at initial rebuild other than the afterfire. I did notice that after a while I didn't notice the fuel pump clicking to prime the bowls even after I opened the drain screws once. So I may put the original pump back on. there was no problem with it, was just being proactive. I'll try to get to each of your questions.... I am the second owner of the bike. OG owner only had it for around 3k - 6k miles, and sold it because his wife no longer wanted to ride with him after he got her a convertible Mustang and have done all the work on it myself. So when I pulled the carbs they were on there tight. I may have had trouble ensuring they are fully seated on the intakes so I'll check that and for cracks/leaks. All the enriching plungers were removed when cleaning. Brass was cleaned with carb cleaner spray. Appear to be seated and functioning properly. I can tell there is a change in "breathing" when cranking the engine as I adjust the fuel screw and engage the choke and disengage. There is definitely functionality. The vacuum diaphragms were soft but no holes were observed. I pulled everything made of plastic or rubber before spraying any cleaner or dipping. Installed new diaphragms and have observed them functioning properly. When it ran for that night and next morning, the entire throttle range was good and responsive with no noticeable lag or dip. The tiny O-rings under the vacuum domes were all replaced. I take it the carb heaters are those little plug caps with the right angle snap on wiring that I removed when cleaning. These have all been reinstalled at the rebuild and the harness was plugged back in. I will need to check if they are energized. Regarding the jetting, I agree with you. I bought a kit and the kit came with 2 options for the main jets, and size 20's for the pilots. That's 2 sizes up from the original 15's. So as mentioned I ordered 17.5's and 22'5's to see which is better. I am now in Houston, TX (80' from sea level). I had stock NGKs that I just changed about 2 years ago and they were a little black but not heavily gummed or charred or scored. Other than the needle seats seals being hardened and leaking from the bowl seals, the carbs were very clean, so the plugs were in good shape, but I bought NGK Iridiums to see if that would help. Still have the plugs i removed and may clean them and reinstall them since I knew those worked. Haven't done anything to the wires and caps. Vacuum plungers cannot be install but correctly. So that's not an issue. Carbs were factory set at 1-1/4 turns. Then I started at 3-1/4 turns on rebuild (again at the recommendation of the jet kit). As I mentioned originally, she only ran with 1/4 choke (enrichened) with the new pipes, but I can see that with better breathing it would need more fuel at idle and at that time I had not changed the jets, nor adjust the pilot screws which may have been all that was needed. Prior to the new pipes she ran fine other than a little smell of fuel at the end of a ride. I think that's because the needle seats were starting to go. I have the stock air boxes and K&N filters. I did remove the little end cap on the airboxes trying to see if that would improve things. It did not. I will need to reinstall those little covers. The K&N's were on for about a year and a half. No mice. always kept it in an attached garage that we use for ingress and egress. Lastly, I will need to look at the clutch and side stand switches. Haven't messed with them. But like I said, she ran strong for the first day or so before I tried to adjust. It could be that the pilot jet is too big and resulting in high sensitivity to the screw adjustments. Also I lost the original idle speed setting so I may not be in the right range for it to run cold as that seemed to be what was happening. It would run cold but would stall when warmed up. In my last attempts, as I turned out, I could hear it trying to catch but I just don't think I found the right spot on the idle screws. I will try one more 1/2 turn before going down in pilot jets I know the general consensus is that anything past 3-1/2 turns is really too far.
Got it running tonight. It was what I suspected but I waited until I got the other sizes of pilot jets in. I mentioned bought a replacement fuel pump and filter. I noticed the pump was not clicking like the original but I could hear it quietly spooling. And today I did a check from the end line that goes into the #4 carb and it was spitting fuel. However, I got tired of removing and replacing the fuel tank each time I had to pull the carbs to make an adjustment after changing from 20 pilots to 22.5 (no success) and from 22.5 to 17.5, so I rigged a workshop fuel supply with a clear line and I could see the pump was not pulling fuel from the tank. The flow was weak at best. So I put the original pump back on and she fired right up. My guess is the new cheap pump started to die after day 2. I might go back to the 20s, but I'm still dialing in the 17.5s and she seems to like that one, no afterfires and no flames.
Hey Jody I have a 2007 Yamaha RS venture that has been sitting for 10 years. I got it running but barely I was wondering if you could give me some tips on knowledge on these bikes.
sure, right off the bat, take the carburetors off and clean them. Don’t get any carburetor cleaner on the vacuum diaphragms, those are the parts in the carburetors that look like a little speaker cones. only use NGK spark plugs number dpr8ea-9.. don’t buy spark plugs on eBay. They may be counterfeit. If you can get the washers off of a NGK spark plug, it’s counterfeit use only four stroke motorcycle oil that has an additives package to help the oil survive duty in a transmission which is murder on oil being smashed between the gears constantly..10w 40 .. change the final drive oil. 80/90 hypoid while you have the gas tank off to do the carbs, make sure you blow air around to the spark plug base, to make sure none of that dirt falls in the cylinder. Coat the spark, plug wires from the coils all the way down to the spark, plug cap with silicone dielectric grease. Even put a little bit inside the spark plug cap with a Q-tip. use a stock, dry paper style, air cleaner only. Don’t use those K & N air filters. There’s a guy that showed how much dirt gets through those things on TH-cam. His channel is called project farm… Email me any issues you might have I might know the answer
Thank you Jody. That was EXACTLY the type of video I was going to ask you for. Starting from a stop and going through the gears a few times. Tells me more about the sound quality than a constant cruising speed. They sound great! I wonder if the popping sound on slowing down might mean you will want to go to a bit larger carburetor jets?
I test drove a 2002 Midnight Venture with Bub mufflers. While they sounded great on startup and when the owner was going around the block, they were too loud for my taste while I was riding the bike. It was a short test ride too. The 1st time I rode it the tires were low on air and it was hard to steer. Tried again after air was added. Tires better but the oil light came on a couple of times. When I asked the owner about that, he couldn't remember if he added oil this not.
After those two things I figured that told me everything I needed to know about how well the bike was maintained so I passed. Gorgeous bike too. About 50k miles on it. The miles wouldn't have scared me if it was maintained better.
Yeah, you don't want to get a bunch of trouble and spend more time fixing than riding. I jut bought a 2000 Venture with 9k miles on it and it basically runs like a new bike.
Did you have to adjust the carbs after installing mufflers
@@JimmyFord-iw5my
sorry, I didn’t see this question until here in May 2024. No I did not have to do any carburetor adjustments. But, I put the stock mufflers back on. These hog mufflers are just too loud for my taste. It’s hard to describe. But the sound, the noise actually was Applying pressure to my whole body. I could feel the exhaust Concussion inside my brain. that sounds crazy, but when I would shut the bike off to get gas, or to take a break while riding with these hog mufflers, it was a relief over my whole body when I shut that sound off.. I thought the muffler is being totally stock, would not be as intrusive as they are, and I even wear earplugs. I put these mufflers on so that I could hear the engine exhaust in my videos on TH-cam. Because my microphone is mounted inside my helmet, just over the engine, I hear, mostly engine, mechanical ticks, and clicks and whining of the primary gears more than I hear exhaust. So I thought I would give it a try, but I’m back to the stock mufflers. My riding buddy Jerry thanked me for putting the stock mufflers back on also. He said it was pretty loud when I would be on the gas going up a steep hill..
I'm curious, did you change your jets at all? I added some V&H Monster Oval lookalikes and K&N air cleaners and she ran with 1/4 choke only but that was also with a small carb leak that finally grew to a constant drip when running. So I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and upped the pilot jets from 15 to 20 and upped the front mains to 122.5 and rears to 125 on recommendation from 6sigma Jet Kits. Pilot screws set to 3-1/4 turns out. Put it all back together and she fired right up with some after fire and flame from the left pipe but ran good and strong for about a day without choke otherwise. Couldn't choke at all or she would stall. So tried adjusting fuel screws in to 3 turns (no dice), 2-3/4 turns (no dice), 2-1/2 turns (no dice). Sometimes would start throughout these adjustments but ran rough then stalled before I could adjust up or down from that point.
Had tried to fine tune the pilot screws down a little to get rid of the flame (liked the pops but not the flame). But she wouldn't hold idle and eventually cranks, wouldn't start anymore even at the original 3-1/4 turns. I have since learned about the AIS that induces air into the exhaust to burn off unburned fuel. Disabled that but still won't start. So, starting from 1 turn, I am now at 4 turns out and she still won't start. Others things done: during original rebuild, replaced fuel pump and filter. After stall issues: Replaced weak battery, and got new Iridium spark plugs. Just need the cleaner and oil for the air filters.
Going back to it after work today. Ordered one size larger and one size smaller jets and will set float levels. She will be running, oh yes. She will be.
are you sure you do not have a vacuum leak. Possibly cracks in the rubber intake, manifolds, possibly someone had the manifolds off and they did not seal.
what did the spark plugs look like? Were they wet, were they dry and very light brown or tan?
what is your altitude? Are you at sea level, or are you in Denver on mile above sea level or even higher?
are you sure the enriching circuit plungers are closing completely?? when you pull out that lever that says choke, that is not a choke that closes off the air, that is what is known as an enriching circuit, it pulls up for plungers, you will see them, go up and down in and out of the carburetor floats, as you pull up and down on that choke lever, that is not a choke, it’s an enriching circuit it adds more fuel for starting.. if those things are not going all the way down and sealing the opening in the float bowl, then the bike is going to be constantly running, rich on one or more cylinders..
Or your carburetor heaters energized? These carburetors have heaters on them for a reason.
is it possible that you used carburetor cleaner, which happens to be an acid, on the vacuum diaphragms in the vacuum chambers on tops of the carburetors under those domes.. If one or more of those have had carburetor cleaner on them, they could have holes in them. They operate by vacuum. When you turn the throttle, you are not raising the slides, you are just operating system of vacuum .. those vacuum diaphragms, which look like a little speaker cones, or what raise and lower the slides in the carburetors..
under each of those vacuum pots on top of your carburetors, is a vacuum, diaphragm, and there are four tiny O-rings also inside those vacuum domes.. are you sure those O-rings are in there and properly installed?
when you make jetting changes, you need to do one change at a time so that you know whether it works or not to go back to the previous setting. If you change three things or five things at one time, you don’t know which one is giving you problems now..
if you are not at sea level, I would go back to the stock jetting. You only need to go fatter on the Jets when you are at sea level because there is more air at sea level than there is in Denver or Mexico City where are they are over a mile above sea level, and the bike would run like crap because they would be overly rich..
fancy spark plugs do not give you a better spark, if you need a hotter spark, you have to change your coils to do that
stock DPR8EA-9 NGK spark plugs are all you need. Just never buy your spark plugs on eBay because there is a big chance they will be counterfeit. If you can get the washer off of an NGK spark plug easily, it’s counterfeit…
While you are under there, use dielectric grease on your spark plug wires all the way from the coil to the spark, plug, cap, and coat the caps with that silicone dielectric grease. Those spark plug caps, get old, and they are in a hostile hot environment. They can develop Leaks that act like fuel problems. My honda nt700 owner is known for that problem once the spark plug Caps get old, Honda almost did a worldwide recall to replace the spark plug caps on these machines. My machine when I bought it had fuel problems and hesitation problems. I thought it was a both caused by fuel problems, which was a blocked fuel filter, but I had two problems, the second being bad, spark, plug caps. I installed new caps, and coated the wires with dielectric. Grease. Runs perfect now, and starts absolutely instantly now..
that’s what I would do, check for vacuum leaks, check the O-rings under those domes And check the vacuum, diaphragms themselves for holes. This may seem like a dumb statement, but also make sure that the slides are not in backwards, I don’t know if it’s possible to put them in backwards on the Venture carburetors, but I have seen people put the slides in backwards on other carburetors..
then I would clean and coat the spark plug wires with dielectric silicone grease
I would go back totwo turns out..
are you using the stock airbox and air cleaners? That could give you problems. There is a science to designing air boxes. The same science they apply to making airplane wings and propellers. Most air boxes today give you about four or 5% more horsepower in the mid range compared to having no air cleaners..
check your side, stand switch, your clutch lever switch to make sure that they are operating, spray them with some light oil like LPS and work the switch to make sure that it is cycling on and off. I had a side stand switch partially malfunction on me one time, the bike started running bad, my gauges started cycling, I was afraid to shut the bike off, and I rode it for over 130 miles nonstop all the way home, only to find out that the side stance which was intermittent. it was dirty because of chain lube, not making that complete circuit to allow the ignition system to work..
Are you sure there are no mice inside your air cleaner. They like to build nests inside air cleaners. I bought a SAAB one time…. it quit running 2 miles from home The day I bought it. I had to have it towed home. When I started investigating, I opened the air cleaner end. It had about 2 pounds of mice, bedding, and little shells that the mice were eating, and there was even a snake skin about 18 inches long in there inside the air cleaner housing. That’s what made my car not start..
Air, gas, spark, once you make sure you have all three of those, then go back to all your stock settings, 2 1/2 turns out, stock, jetting, new NGK spark plugs, which you can get at advance auto, they stock NGK’s ..
One other little thing, turn your key on, turn your Killswitch to off, and push the start button. A red light should come on below your dashboard, green neutral light. That is a test of your low oil level warning system. These machines do not have a low oil pressure warning system. They only warn you if your oil level is low before you can have low pressure damage. I’ve never heard of a problem like that with Venture, but just check it. Some cars back in the 70s by General Motors would shut power off to the fuel pump if the oil pressure Was low. The Chevy Vega did that. Let me know what you find.
@@Jodyrides Wow, that's a response. I appreciate the review and real answers for me to do some troubleshooting. Like I said. it ran like a champ at initial rebuild other than the afterfire. I did notice that after a while I didn't notice the fuel pump clicking to prime the bowls even after I opened the drain screws once. So I may put the original pump back on. there was no problem with it, was just being proactive.
I'll try to get to each of your questions....
I am the second owner of the bike. OG owner only had it for around 3k - 6k miles, and sold it because his wife no longer wanted to ride with him after he got her a convertible Mustang and have done all the work on it myself. So when I pulled the carbs they were on there tight. I may have had trouble ensuring they are fully seated on the intakes so I'll check that and for cracks/leaks.
All the enriching plungers were removed when cleaning. Brass was cleaned with carb cleaner spray. Appear to be seated and functioning properly. I can tell there is a change in "breathing" when cranking the engine as I adjust the fuel screw and engage the choke and disengage. There is definitely functionality.
The vacuum diaphragms were soft but no holes were observed. I pulled everything made of plastic or rubber before spraying any cleaner or dipping. Installed new diaphragms and have observed them functioning properly. When it ran for that night and next morning, the entire throttle range was good and responsive with no noticeable lag or dip. The tiny O-rings under the vacuum domes were all replaced.
I take it the carb heaters are those little plug caps with the right angle snap on wiring that I removed when cleaning. These have all been reinstalled at the rebuild and the harness was plugged back in. I will need to check if they are energized.
Regarding the jetting, I agree with you. I bought a kit and the kit came with 2 options for the main jets, and size 20's for the pilots. That's 2 sizes up from the original 15's. So as mentioned I ordered 17.5's and 22'5's to see which is better. I am now in Houston, TX (80' from sea level).
I had stock NGKs that I just changed about 2 years ago and they were a little black but not heavily gummed or charred or scored. Other than the needle seats seals being hardened and leaking from the bowl seals, the carbs were very clean, so the plugs were in good shape, but I bought NGK Iridiums to see if that would help. Still have the plugs i removed and may clean them and reinstall them since I knew those worked. Haven't done anything to the wires and caps.
Vacuum plungers cannot be install but correctly. So that's not an issue.
Carbs were factory set at 1-1/4 turns. Then I started at 3-1/4 turns on rebuild (again at the recommendation of the jet kit). As I mentioned originally, she only ran with 1/4 choke (enrichened) with the new pipes, but I can see that with better breathing it would need more fuel at idle and at that time I had not changed the jets, nor adjust the pilot screws which may have been all that was needed. Prior to the new pipes she ran fine other than a little smell of fuel at the end of a ride. I think that's because the needle seats were starting to go.
I have the stock air boxes and K&N filters. I did remove the little end cap on the airboxes trying to see if that would improve things. It did not. I will need to reinstall those little covers. The K&N's were on for about a year and a half. No mice. always kept it in an attached garage that we use for ingress and egress.
Lastly, I will need to look at the clutch and side stand switches. Haven't messed with them. But like I said, she ran strong for the first day or so before I tried to adjust. It could be that the pilot jet is too big and resulting in high sensitivity to the screw adjustments. Also I lost the original idle speed setting so I may not be in the right range for it to run cold as that seemed to be what was happening. It would run cold but would stall when warmed up. In my last attempts, as I turned out, I could hear it trying to catch but I just don't think I found the right spot on the idle screws. I will try one more 1/2 turn before going down in pilot jets I know the general consensus is that anything past 3-1/2 turns is really too far.
Got it running tonight. It was what I suspected but I waited until I got the other sizes of pilot jets in. I mentioned bought a replacement fuel pump and filter. I noticed the pump was not clicking like the original but I could hear it quietly spooling. And today I did a check from the end line that goes into the #4 carb and it was spitting fuel.
However, I got tired of removing and replacing the fuel tank each time I had to pull the carbs to make an adjustment after changing from 20 pilots to 22.5 (no success) and from 22.5 to 17.5, so I rigged a workshop fuel supply with a clear line and I could see the pump was not pulling fuel from the tank. The flow was weak at best. So I put the original pump back on and she fired right up. My guess is the new cheap pump started to die after day 2. I might go back to the 20s, but I'm still dialing in the 17.5s and she seems to like that one, no afterfires and no flames.
Just didn't want to believe a new part would be a failure point but that's the way it goes with aftermarket.
Sounds good - 👍
Hey Jody I have a 2007 Yamaha RS venture that has been sitting for 10 years. I got it running but barely I was wondering if you could give me some tips on knowledge on these bikes.
sure, right off the bat, take the carburetors off and clean them. Don’t get any carburetor cleaner on the vacuum diaphragms, those are the parts in the carburetors that look like a little speaker cones.
only use NGK spark plugs number dpr8ea-9..
don’t buy spark plugs on eBay. They may be counterfeit. If you can get the washers off of a NGK spark plug, it’s counterfeit
use only four stroke motorcycle oil that has an additives package to help the oil survive duty in a transmission which is murder on oil being smashed between the gears constantly..10w 40 ..
change the final drive oil. 80/90 hypoid
while you have the gas tank off to do the carbs, make sure you blow air around to the spark plug base, to make sure none of that dirt falls in the cylinder. Coat the spark, plug wires from the coils all the way down to the spark, plug cap with silicone dielectric grease. Even put a little bit inside the spark plug cap with a Q-tip.
use a stock, dry paper style, air cleaner only. Don’t use those K & N air filters. There’s a guy that showed how much dirt gets through those things on TH-cam. His channel is called project farm…
Email me any issues you might have I might know the answer