วีดีโอ

@@cobyup10 coby.. you might be right about the 25 inch scale because the guitar is easy to play, like a gibson, and less like the longer scale neck fenders which make it harder to stretch the strings. I got that specification about it being a 25.5 inch scale for musicians friend specification chart for this guitar where the guitar came from . I just checked again ,like I did before I made the video. that is what they have listed in the specification info listed on musicians friend website for the D Angelico EX SS Deluxe (no F hole model..) -- 25.5” One thing is for sure now, I am positive that I am not sure ..

@@Rayslife5k antifreeze coming out of your motor on the Kawasaki? And then you say it broke? That could be something as simple as a loose clamp, but probably the water pump seal. But what do you mean when you say the engine broke. Then they quit running? Was there water in the oil and oil in the water? did the engine quit running? Would it start and shift gears? Were there any lights on the dashboard? The warning lights ?? I will look into why the check engine light would come on your Yamaha. I didn’t know they had a check engine light. . That could be something as simple as low on brake fluid, possibly, or low on antifreeze,. I don’t know about your year bike but on my 2008, you check the low oil level warning system by turning the key on, turn the kill switch on the right control housing that your throttle cables go into where your start button is, rotate that switch or flip that switch to the off position. And with the bike not running, and the key on, you push the start button, a light will come on the dashboard, on my Venture it’s red. That tests the warning system that will let you know if you have low oil level, Yamaha doesn’t warn you if you have low oil pressure, they warn you that you have low oil level first before you can have damage for below oil level. They’ve been doing that since the early 1980s on some of their bikes. What color is this warning light you are mentioning? Have you been making videos for TH-cam? I don’t know why they aren’t coming up automatically on my phone or computer like they always did?

@ no dude . It was coming out of the overflow tank. I had to let it sit on the side of the road. It might have been the fan not kicking on. But I don’t wanna waste money on anything if it had a bad motor. So I finally fixed it

@@Jodyrides thank u man. I also believe the check engine light on the Yamaha is as simple as a speedometer sencoer. Cuz sometimes I half to smack the speedometer to make it work

@@Jim-cy thank you. there’s nothing like the feel of a fresh set of meats. Once that initial thickness of the tire tread starts to go away, that feel goes away.. it happens so slowly over weeks and months, you don’t even notice it until you put a fresh set on. That’s when you get the “wow “factor

@@cliffdykes1171 thanks. I read somewhere that buddy guy uses fender cyber twin’s. I’ve had a 1966 black face super reverb, a silver face super reverb with the master volume over by the pilot light, I think that was the best amp I ever had, I had a tremoluxe with 2/10s for small gigs. Those supers are tall and they weigh almost 70 pounds. Going up steps with them is tuff.. I also had a deluxe reverb. So I know what thunders are supposed to sound like, and this cyber twin sounds like those amps I mentioned when it is in that mode on the display. when I was in high school, I had a blonde fender bassman exactly like the one on the cover of the blind faith album. I didn’t like it because it did not have reverb so I sold it for $100 to get my first super reverb… this was my first guitar review video. I had just got a new iPhone 16 for my birthday, and I was just trying it out so I thought I would do a guitar video since it was 14° outside here in Western Pennsylvania and I couldn’t do a motorcycle video, which is what my channel is mostly about. Motorcycles and guitar stuff are my only vices…..so far….

@ yes I have owned 2 super reverbs a 72 and later a 73. The cyber twin does justice for them. I only have the Cyber Twin as an amp but lots of modelers and sims now.

wow, thanks. I really didn’t expect anybody to find this video. I was just playing around with my brand new iPhone, and I noticed that you could make videos with it and send them straight to your TH-cam channel. So, it’s late at night, and I’m certainly not going out in my cold garage to do a motorcycle video, which is what I usually do. So I thought I would just do a video and sound check to see how well my cell phone actually makes videos and how they sound, and then I tested to see if I could actually send a video to TH-cam. And to my surprise it worked. Because I am certainly not a geek.. I do not have any skills at making videos for my TH-cam channel which if you have watched any of my videos, you would notice that they are all one take from beginning to end with no editing.. I am the Ed Wood of TH-cam videos. One take start to finish, it’s a wrap… But thank you for the encouraging compliment. I certainly didn’t expect one, especially not this soon.

@@charlesedenfield8947 my second venture, which was a 2001 midnight Royal star Venture also came with ridiculous loud open mufflers from some aftermarket company. They were so loud that I would not ride the bike until I found muffler for it. That is when I discovered that harley mufflers go on the Royal star ventures without too much trouble… The harley mufflers are about an inch or two longer, which is not a problem .. The openings on the muffler from Harley are exactly the same inside diameter as the outside diameter of the Yamaha exhaust pipes. So you have to slightly expand the opening of the hog mufflers, just slightly. you can buy a muffler or exhaust pipe expansion tool at Harbor freight. That tool just goes inside the pipe, and you turn a bolt that stretches the metal. Or you could go to a local muffler shop like Monroe muffler and give the guy 10 bucks to expand each muffler just slightly, about the thickness of the metal itself. You only want to do the last inch or two of the muffler because there is a stop tab inside the muffler, so that the muffler slides on only so far and then stops at that tab that is just a small piece of metal inside the muffler.. you have to make sure that you get the Harley muffler clamps. Those things are military grade. The stock Yamaha mufflers are made with the clamps permanently attached so you can’t remove them from the stock mufflers on a Royal star venture and use them on the Harley pipes. The final thing you have to do is make a metal bracket that attaches to the Venture exhaust pipe attachment point, then it goes back and attaches to one of the two holes on the harley mufflers. You’ll have to get a bolt at the hardware store that screws into the Harley muffler about an inch long..you can’t use a bolt any longer than that because it screws into the threads, and then it will go and start contacting the muffler itself. The harley mufflers are above and beyond the quality of any Japanese mufflers I’ve ever seen, at the same time they are lighter. And they are finished all the way around the muffler with shiny mirror finish chrome. The stock Japanese mufflers on just about every Japanese motorcycle I have ever worked on, they only chrome the part of the muffler you can see when it’s on the machine…. I have several Yamaha Venture muffler videos on my channel. They have the letters, HD in the title. I have a series of videos on how to make harley mufflers fit your machine. They are videos I made while I was doing the job. I’m not very good at making videos, or I would’ve made those insulation videos just one big video. I also made a video using my iPhone as a decibel meter to show how loud the harley mufflers are compared to stock which I also did a sound video on. I don’t know if I put those videos on TH-cam or not. .. they might not have been good enough to put on TH-cam, but I do remember that at idle, from about 20 feet back, the hog mufflers were around 60 dB loud. they were just about 10 dB louder than the stock mufflers at idle, with a deeper tone.. I always always have worn earplugs .. earplugs cut the volume and the sharpness of the tone back about 20 dB. I’m guessing. I wear them to take the wind sound away which is above 100 dB at 60 miles an hour on a motorcycle… I put the hog mufflers on because I wanted the sound of my engine to show up in my videos while riding. Because I keep my external microphone inside the lining of my helmet in the ear pocket. That was the first place I discovered, which took me about 100 videos, that I didn’t have the wind noise overpowering all the other sounds in my videos, making them useless. so I didn’t have the wind noise, but I did have the sound of the primary gears show up in the videos because with a microphone in the ear pocket of my helmet, the microphone was picking up the sound of the primary gears from the engine, making it sound way louder than it really is. The harley mufflers did take care of that sound by overpowering the sound of the engine primary gears. I have one video I made. I think it was titled something to do with sound check HD mufflers. I start the bike in a parking lot and walk around the bike from a distance to show how loud it is with the HD mufflers, then I take it for a ride about a mile up the road and I come up this pretty long hill to do a sound check. I don’t remember the exact name of the video but any of my videos that have the letters HD in them, those are harley muffler videos.. I also did a long video or two with the harley mufflers, one of them was on route 422 east over the Appalachian mountains. That video has pretty good sound quality to show what they sound like because they were some really steep hills I was climbing at around 60 miles an hour, full throttle at times if you want to check those videos before doing that muffler swap.. I have two sets of harley mufflers . I’d be willing to part with. They are the ones that will go on the venture just by expanding the muffler slightly, making a bracket that attaches to the muffler and to the bike, and using Harley Davidson, muffler, clamps, if you’re interested. One set of mufflers are not modified, and I don’t have the hanger made which is a pretty simple piece of metal, and then the other set are the ones that were on my machine and all the hardware is packed in the box with them. Let me know if you’re interested in the set you would have to make fit the bike, or the set that already is made to fit, including the hangers and clamps. You can usually pick those clamps up for about 20 bucks apiece on eBay. let me know if you’re interested in either set of mufflers if that helps, or just keep watching eBay for a set of stock mufflers, which are quieter and don’t require any modifications or clamps both sets of harley mufflers that I have that I’d be willing to part with are completely stock let me know if you want either set I have of the stock Harley Davidson mufflers. One said I have his off of a 2012 street glide I think. I might be wrong on the year but I know they are off of a street glide. I don’t know anything about Harley’s, never had one, so I don’t know one model from another of the big ones. Those videos that have the Harley install job on my Venture, I made those videos probably back in 2022. So that is the group of my videos. You will search the titles of for the letters HD in them. if there’s any questions you have about your Venture that I can help with, I’d be more than happy to answer.

by the way, pay no attention to the time/date stamp on this video. That camera has a defect and cannot change the settings. I believe I made this video in 2023.. I also made a video entitled something like Yamaha Royalstar, Venture or GL 1800 Goldwing 700,000 mile veterans choice. You might be interested in. in that video, I mentioned the things I like about the ventures, and that I have tried to switch to BMW, and gold wings, but I keep going back to the ventures because they are so simple to work on, and roomier than the gold wing. The gold wing is perfect If you’re under 6 foot tall, the gold wing is the smoothest, the gold wings are ultra reliable, but Venture’s last hundreds of thousands of miles too, and the news I am sorry to hear about the Goldwing transmission problems and the massive massive recall on the 2018 and newer Gold wings to replace a simple bolt that can come loose somewhere in the engine, causing the transmission to lock. I’m sorry to hear that, and that’s not a Honda problem in design. That was a parts supplier issue as far as I have been reading, they have been supplied within an inferior bolt. I do not blame Honda for that. Gold wings in my opinion are still perfect machines. I just prefer the ease of maintenance on the ventures and the softer ride with the air suspension of the ventures.. and one other little thing. Fuel injection is better, especially if you’re doing large elevation changes. But carburetors will always get you home, and you can push start a motorcycle with carburetors. If the battery goes flat, you can push a motorcycle with fuel injection until you wear the tires out, it will not start if the battery is flat so, are gold wings better than the 1300 royal star ventures? It depends on what you mean by “better “ the 1300 cc V4 ventures are just as reliable as gold wings

@@Jodyrides Thank you so much for the comprehensive reply to my question. I really appreciate your thoroughness. I’ve decided to try repacking the aftermarket pipes I have first but leave open the possibility that they will still be too loud. If so I’m very much interested in your mufflers. You didn’t give a price. Please quote on both sets. I live in the Fort Worth Texas area so shipping shouldn’t be too bad. Thanks again, Charlie

As stated elsewhere, I’m very much interested in one set of the Harley mufflers. Don’t know if you are getting my messages. Thanks Charlie

i’m not sure about the horsepower rating on the nighthawk which has a four valve per cylinder double overhead cam engine. But the original single cam two valve for cylinder Honda 750 four-cylinder in 1969, which was considered maybe the fastest one, only had 59 hp. The nt700v deauville has a claimed 71 hp. The Honda Pacific coast had 48 hp.. I have no reason to BS anyone. But I guess I have to qualify myself here to make this story sound believable. I am a 6 Time Rd. racing championship winner. Two time national champion AMA, and WER A Rd. racing organizations. I think they changed the name of WERA to what is current now that you see on television a lot after I retired from road racing because of the very first very serious injury that I had over the eight years waking up in the hospital two days after the accident in plaster. It was all burned out of me. I lost the drive to do that. So one of the bikes I had over the decades since was a Honda Pacific coast that I commuted on for 24 years , eight months a year here in Western Pennsylvania. I would ride to work in the rain if it wasn’t really pouring, and the thread of rain never kept me from riding to work in the morning. Those specific coasts are fantastic. I had two of them. My first one got totaled from behind with me on it while I was waiting my turn at a stop sign. So I replaced it with another one… The Pacific coast handling was neutral, no head shake, fresh fresh after drive bike. It handled very well. I had KONI shocks on it, and Progressive for springs to match the shock springs.. A group of us we’re going to go to mid Ohio to watch the races. We decided to take route 39 from Wellsville, Ohio to Mansfield, Ohio, where the race track is. That is through corn, pastures and little towns. Very tight winding at times, lots of fun I decided to ride my Pacific coast because it was so comfortable for that just under 200 mile ride from near Pittsburgh PA. I rode with a group of sport bike riders. Ducati 916, BMW, K 1200 RS, triumph triple. and two 750 ninjas. no, I did have an advantage because of my racing skill. But I swear I never went over 70 miles an hour. I just will not do that on public roads even in the country. I had to wait for everyone at every stop sign. horsepower is not the most important thing, once you have it wound up, picking lines correctly, setting up your corner so you have the highest exit speed, staying off the brakes, being smooth, those are what fast is, anybody can pull the trigger on a straight away and go fast, but how are they where it counts. Maintaining momentum, picking clean lines, having highest exit speeds from corners, always being in the right gear at the right time on your exit, and being a smooth as though you were on ice, that is what fast is, not a powerful engine.. when I was racing RDs, I raced a 28 hp RD 250 completely stock in the engine exhaust and air box. 15 laps sprint race, my race was generally about 20 seconds quicker than the 750 class, my top speed was only about 95 miles an hour . Some of those 750s could hit 140. I wouldn’t put too much stock in horsepower alone. It’s the complete package that is more important along with experience and your skill level at riding and setting up your suspension. I would never modify my engine after my first year when I destroyed a motorcycle trying to make it go faster . I finally accepted the fact that the factory knows more than I do and I decided to leave my machine, totally stock in the engine. And I started winning championships with only 28 hp on bias tires.. I know that 50 hp is more than enough to ride anywhere in the country on a machine that weighs under 600 pounds which is about with my Honda Pacific Coast Wade. It wasn’t fast on acceleration, it didn’t have a big jumping power when it would come up on the cam, it had a nice flat power curve like an electric motor. And I never went near red line… I will give you the advice that I gave dozens of people over the decades when I sold motorcycles, part-time in the evenings and weekends for 17 years. When they would come in on an olde air cooled motorcycle that was designed probably in the late 70s or 80s, and they kept it up and it looked beautiful. And when they would come in to look at the new bike so I would ask them what they’re riding now. and they would tell me something like an xs650 Yamaha twin. Or maybe a KZ 900 or 1000 Kawasaki, which by the way only had 72 hp, or maybe a Kawasaki 500 or 750 two-stroke triple, which are some of the worst handling machines ever .. if they say I have this machine or that machine and I don’t really need a new bike. I would tell them that’s great. But do yourself a favor, don’t ever ride anything modern, not even a short test ride if you want to stay happy with your old bike , which is fine. They will both get you to the same place.

@@Jodyrides WOW, what an excellent contribution (it goes well beyond a comment). I think we're at 99% agreement. I can't hold a candle to your experience, maybe a match. Compared to all street only riders, I might be in the top half. Compared to any skilled track or dirt riders, I'm not even close. The NT700V and the CB750 Nighthawk are pretty close in power. 65hp/49lbft former, 75hp/47.2lbft latter. As you stated at the end the NT would feel much more modern, I don't know what I'm missing by riding the Nighthawk, and it gets me where I'm going. Horsepower is less meaningful at this point to me, but not insignificant. I currently have a HP range from a CT110 to an FZ1. My favorite rides are 650-900cc, around 70 HP (one at 110 HP). The FZ1 is my favorite 1000-1200 cc bike, and yet it's up for sale. It will kiss 80mph in first and I could leave it 3rd all day. I live at the foot of George Washington National Forrest, Skyline Drive, and the North end of the Smokies. I would say I'm quickest on Skyline riding my SV650. I've nicknamed it "Treeline Drive" as the views along the road are overgrown. My Hornet 919 might be second. The Honda Pacific Coast is still on my "check it out" list. I test drove one when it came out, compared it to an R80RT. The PC felt like tires "swung out" in a turn. Instead of me feeling like I was leaning into the turn tightening the circle, it felt like it was "sliding out" increasing the circle. I had no idea why, at that time given my meager skill level, and I passed. I have a beautiful '90 Pearl Blue PC with 32k miles on my Marketplace Saved Items list for $2000. You gave sage advise like a good friend, based on extensive, decades long, professional experiences. I'm guessing you would encourage me to check it out. The main question now is parts availability.

@@papatorr3669 you are correct, rotating the bars backwards, a little bit would increase the odds of smacking the gas tank at full lock .. what I should’ve said is what really happened, it pinched my thumb and the control housing for the turn signals and the horn came awfully close. I’ve had several variations of barriers. I’ve tried, up 1 inch, up 1 inch and back 2 inches, back 3 inches and up 5 inches is where I’m at now with the HELIBARS handlebar riser block that’s in there now . That’s what the bike original owner gave me with the bike when I picked it up along with the luggage rack that accepts the color matched Honda line, locking trunk and the 2 inch thick, genuine Honda service manual. But I was surprised that these machines sold in the United States did not come with a tool kit, and I called the original owner and asked if he still had the tool kit and he thought about it and said you know I don’t think those machines came with a tool kit. So over the decades, I’ve accumulated a lot of tool kit tools and quite a few tool kit bags so I made myself up a tool kit with some additional parts like jumper, cables, fuses, 10 feet of safety wire, leather man, multitool, flashlight stuff like that.. I also ordered online a swivel socket 16 mm spark plug tool for this machine because it does require a very specific tool for changing the spark plugs. The way my Honda Pacific coast did, they came with a tool in the tool kit that if you did not have that tool, you were not going to be able to change the spark plugs on a Honda Pacific Coast. It looked like a cheap regular Neanderthal grade tool kit tool, but it was the only thing that worked on the Pacific coast, and that had two spark plugs per cylinder… I ended up using the stock bars, at least I think they are stock, and I always set my handlebars up to be at the same angle that the forks are at. That way when you are breaking hard or if you’re strapping your bike down on a trailer, you have less chance of rotating the bars in the perch if the purchase is not tight enough on the bars. There’s no risk of banging the tank with the bars at full lock either. That and cable length and electric wire length are the things I always check that and making sure that the bars are centered in the saddles I remember a famous motocross rider from decades ago. I think his name was Ricky Johnson, he lost a big-time race because he said the bike just didn’t feel right. It turned out that his handlebars were not centered in the saddles by 1 inch and that cost him the national championship that year. I wonder if he did what Michael Andretti did to a tire changer on his Indy car that tried to put a left tire on the right side of his race car during a race, he fired him on the spot.

i’ve had limited experience with machines that were made for the California market. all I know is they were way way too lean in the carburetion department. I had a 92 Yamaha Seca 600, four-cylinder air cooled, carburetors, that was a nice bike, but I believe that Yamaha made it the same machine for the California and the rest of the country. That thing was shut off when I pulled up to a red light. On my way to work at times. It would start right up again, but it was just dangerously lean .. lean means high temperatures just look at a lawnmower carburetor. They are about as unsophisticated as you can get. The only thing that determines the speed is the throttle plate. When it’s wide-open, it’s running on more air, when you close the throttle plate down, it’s still getting the same amount of gas but much much less air. It’s a fine line. then, there’s altitude to consider. The higher up you go and altitude above sea level, the there is less air in the air. Formula One cars lose about 100 hp when they race in Mexico City, which is over a mile high above sea level, then, when they race at sea level like Montecarlo, they are at sea level. They have 100 hp more because the air is more compressed and you’re getting more air with every intake stroke. these ventures are probably engines that were designed in the late 70s. I do not know how much cam overlap they have year to year. Overlap is, the intake valve will open just before the exhaust valve completely closes. That allows for easier flow for the intake charge because it has more momentum telling the cylinder. Unfortunately, part of the fresh unburned charge goes out the exhaust valve, which is the reason we don’t see two strokes on the street anymore, overlap.-part of the unburned fresh charge goes out the exhaust port. Having the intake charge partially go out, the exhaust port is good for performance, but bad for emissions.. in the very early 1970s, carmakers had to put air pumps and catalytic converter‘s on muscle cars in horsepower dropped down to under 200 when they were in the mid300 hp range before they had to do that. One of the reasons for the dramatic drop in horsepower once the 1970s started is, the exhaust valves had to be completely closed before the intake valve cut open. that was the end of the muscle car. Now today cars are better and more powerful than ever. These are the good old days when it comes to power and breaks and handling and durability and safety and high mileage. But the Venture engine was designed in the 70s because it did not appear until 1983… that was the 1200 cc Yamaha Venture and Venture royale introduction here. Those things were FAST. They were in the 12 second range in the quarter mile which was pretty fast for a heavy machine with all the baggage on it pushing that fairing the size of a barn door… now this is a guess, if you’re going to get improved performance, look into what they were using on the Vmax. That had ace engine that would probably fit right into The Venture frame, but those things had 148 claimed horsepower.. i rode those early vmax’s.. I had a Yamaha FJ 1200 at the time for comparison, there was no comparison. The Vmax was brutally much faster than my FJ 1200, just don’t expect a Vmax to go around corners. They’re not made for it. I believe in leaving machines completely stock. Because if you have issues with the way, it’s running, you don’t know what the baseline should be. If you ever do change things, trying to find more horsepower, do only one change at a time. If you change three or four things at once, and your machine runs like crap. After that, you don’t know which one is causing the problem. I’ve seen that more times than I can remember at road race tracks During the eight years I was road racing. I went up against guys that had the exact same machine I had, that weighed 50 pounds less than I did, and I would have one or 2 miles an hour top speed on them, which is walking speed. At the end of the race. I would be half a lap ahead of them when I would cross the finish line. that did not make any sense to me at first. But then it turns out, they were making changes, removing their airbox, which acts like a velocity stack, that was one of the biggest power drops. People did to their own machines, getting rid of the stock airbox. They juggle timing, they would change the exhaust, they would change jetting, they would try trick components, they would change the carburetors., and what they ultimately ended up doing, was making their machines slower. I realized early in my racing career that the factory knows more than I do. So I always left my machine alone and concentrated on riding and suspension set up, and that approach won me six championships, two national championships… I was accused of cheating by guys, protesting me, and putting up money to have my engine, inspected for cheating, and it always came out that I was totally stock.. people always blame The bike for being slow and actually it was them that was slow compounded by them, tinkering, without knowing what the hell they were doing.. if it were me, I would leave the bike alone, i’ve told people over the decades if you want a faster bike, don’t try to make your bike faster, saw your bike and buy a faster bike. it’ll be cheaper and more reliable and when you wanna get rid of it, you’ll be able to sell it instead of trying to sell a Frankenstein you experimented with.. motorcycles don’t wear out as much as they are neglected to death or modified to death.. I do have a video on TH-cam about the Kawasaki, Vulcan voyager 1700. I really like that bike. I went to see one that was for sale and took it for a test ride, and I had my camera on for the entire test ride, which lasts about 15 minutes… you should watch that video because that bike was not what I thought it would be. It was totally stock except it had a Corbin seat with a back rest. It started right up and idled smoothly, It had the noisiest engine I can remember. Ever hearing. They have hydraulic lifters, and on the Internet, there are some people that mention that the cam chains need a modification to the cam chain tensioner, which appears to be too short and doesn’t put enough tension on the cam chain.. They have a belt final drive, which is a great plus for suspension compliance, But the belt alone cost over $500.. I thought that was a misprint, I thought maybe that was what a dealer would charge to install a new belt including the belt.. But that is just the price of the belt. There are people that made videos for TH-cam, saying that the Harley Davidson Belt is slightly smaller in width and cost $150, And it goes right on the Kawasaki Volcan voyager, 1700.. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but there are videos on TH-cam that say it is true.. Watch the video I made in June 2022 Of the test ride I made, and I give my impressions of the machine the entire time I’m riding.. Like I said, the writing position, even the bars, everything was perfect for me. But the engine did not make much power at all., And I don’t know if I could tolerate how much that engine shook.. In the video, I see it felt like a paint shaker.. It also has the noisiest shifting transmission this side of a Hesketh motorcycle.. You will hear in that video every shift I made. It literally sounds like someone in the engine is in there with a ball peen hammer.. there is a dude that I follow. That’s very entertaining on TH-cam, he has a Kawasaki, Vulcan, voyager I think it is, I’m not sure of the model, but it’s the one with fairing in bags like the 1700 Voyager. He just got it about five months ago, and a shop told him he needs a new engine. There’s a lot of people on TH-cam that say that they’ve had to have the lifters replaced. There are people that say they’ve had to have the cam chain replaced as well as a modified cam chain tensioner that does not push out hard enough to maintain. The proper tension.. I do know that there are people that say those machines last them tens of thousands of trouble free miles.. but the one I rode, definitely had a lot of valve lifter clatter that made me nervous, you can hear it in my video. And that’s why I didn’t buy that bike. I actually contacted the seller a week later because I changed my mind and I was willing to take a chance that maybe just the oil needed changed which is a common suggestion when the valves make noise. But I could never get in touch with the guy, so I think he may have sold it… The bottom line is, I did like that bike. But it was not smooth, it was not powerful, and the transmission was the loudest I ever heard, and the valves, and the cam chain made all kinds of noise… I can’t imagine Kawasaki making an engine for that long with problems like that. They just don’t make junk at Kawasaki. I’ve had a bunch of Kawasaki’s, Kawasaki, triples, the original, Z1903, 600 ninja, KLR 650. 350 big horn dirtbike, which I got from Eric Buell, Rotary valve two-stroke twin A7SS.. I bought my then girlfriend a KD 125 brand new.. I never had any problems with them that I didn’t cause..

@ thanks for your in-depth opinion on this subject. You make a good point about leaving well enough alone. As to your Kawasaki video, I’ll be checking it out tomorrow for sure. What I’ve heard on the Vulcan that makes a world of good is to have the ECU flashed. Apparently, it makes a heck of a difference on performance. Unfortunately with our carbureted bikes, that operation can’t be done. I did get my carbs rebuilt though and rejetted with to factory standard jets, out went the lean CA emissions jets. I had the valves adjusted also, which is what was recommended by the factory. It had to be done professionally since I don’t have the background to work on my machines’ internals. Thanks again for taking some time to write me on my conundrum. I appreciate it. Jesse

@@jesusacovarrubias1390 you’re welcome. But just keep in mind, everyone has a right to their wrong opinions, even me. as for not being able to change the turning on a machine with carburetors, the way you can on a machine with fuel injection. Here is my opinion on that. I think it’s just possible that the newer machines that have settings for rain or sport mode on their menu for the way, the bike runs is nice, but I think it’s just possible that there is just one setting on those fuel injected bikes with Settings that is the one that is the optimum overall, I’ll put of power, and the other ones are just a form of D tuning. on the other hand, a machine that has stock and has carburetors is set up to run at its optimum performance at all times .. personally, I I am not thrilled with different power, output, settings, or things like antilock, brakes, or traction control.. I prefer that the machine run at a consistent level, never changing, so I know what I have in all situations.. traction control on my company jeep on a snowy day. Could have gotten me run over by a gasoline truck. I was leaving a gas station on a snowy day, where there was snow pushed to the sides of the main road. I was about to pull out when I looked to my left and saw a large gasoline tractor trailer coming. He was about an eighth of a mile away.. plenty of space for me to pull out and not cause the truck driver two slow down or lay on his horns. It wouldn’t even be close under normal circumstances. but I pulled out slowly because it was snowing and my Jeep detected the snow pushed to the side of the road. Where are the exit from the gas station meets the road. The traction control took over, and my Jeep practically stopped halfway out of the gas station, and it would not accelerate. The traction control, detected the snow, slippage and cut the power to the wheels. That gasoline truck laid on the horns, and I was lucky the oncoming traffic from the opposite direction lane was empty. The truck driver stayed on the horns and swerved into the oncoming lane to miss me, thank goodness. I was lucky that day. But traction control nearly got me killed. from that day on, when I got into my company car, the first thing I did was put on my seatbelt, and the second thing I did was turn off traction control, every single time I got in the vehicle.. I had a bad situation happen with ABS brakes on my BMW K 1200 LT motorcycle. I was going down a road that had gravel on it. I was on a slope going downhill. It wasn’t very steep but it was about 1000 feet downhill. I touched the brakes to maintain my speed and I had nothing, no breaks at all on a 900 pound motorcycle. I actually had time to plan my next move. Should I jump off? Should I shut the key off? Should I aim for something cheap? Should I just lay the bike down? I was pumping the brakes and standing on the brakes, nothing I had no breaks. At the bottom of the hill, coming up fast was a right hand turn I was not going to make at that speed. But I was lucky. There was an auto salvage yard at the bottom of the hill, surrounded by a wire fence 8 feet tall. I ran into that fence. It was about 10 feet through the grass off the road to stop. It was like a big net. The only damage I had was a broken front fender. when my New fender came in, I installed the fender, and I sold that motorcycle about 10 days later. gimmicks like traction control, and especially ABS are a placebo for idiots. They are cures for problems that don’t really exist, especially on motorcycles. That front wheel is the one that’s going to save your life, and when you have it stop working in the name of “safety? “,That’s unbelievable. I was lucky that day that that road didn’t intersect out onto the main highway with cars going by at 50 miles an hour, or passed a school zone with children crossing the street.. i’ve had two machines with ABS brakes, I sold them and bought older machines that do not have ABS brakes. ABS on a four-wheel-drive vehicle like a car or a truck is one thing because you have three other wheels on the ground. They can do the breaking for you. But on a motorcycle only the front wheel is the one that’s gonna save your life, and when that stops working, good luck.

deer are sort of like cats, you don’t own them, they just choose to stay with you. We give these deer snacks, but we do not feed them 20 or 30 pounds of food a day. We just give them little snacks in an attempt to keep them away from our bushes and shrubs and flowers and my garden. Sometimes we see them twice a day, sometimes we don’t see them for days. over the years, the dominant female drives the males away before they are even a year old. She’ll come up behind them and give them a whack across the back legs with her front leg and she will try to bite them, and they finally get the message and I don’t know where they go, but we never see them again most of the time. We only see the males start sniffing around for a few weeks in the fall, then I don’t know where they go. The males do not come around for snacks. this female that eat out of my hand is the only deer I’ve seen that does that in the decades we’ve been here. She has had twins in 2024, and in 2023 she had twins. And those are the four deer the same shade of tan that she is in this video . She will drive them away, just like she was driving the darker deer in the beginning of this video and then a little later that smaller deer, which is the baby of that dark deer… I believe that deer, even though mommy was driving it away, I believe that is one of mommy’s fans from two years ago. Because she does not tolerate strangers.

I like his videos too

@@Honda-world Dale, I can honestly say I don’t get many veiled encrypted comments like this.. I can’t tell if it’s a question, a comment, or something else !! i’ll attribute that to the fact that it is New Year’s Eve Can I ask what part of the world you are in? Maybe something got twisted in translation

@@dwatson636 yeah, they give a nice ride. But I have noticed that they sing when cornering. I always wear earplugs. but I can hear the singing in my videos, but only in corners.. Kenda technical tire development and testing center is in Akron Ohio since 2015..

@Jodyrides I have not heard that. Are you using the Kenda Kruz model? I have been using these tires for 20 years on multiple bikes with no issues.

@@Tom-jx9te I checked my valves when I first got the bike, that’s before I even thought anyone might be interested in seeing how to adjust the valves.. on all the Yamaha ventures, and v max 1200 cc and 1300 cc the four engines, there is no need to pull the camshafts to adjust valve clearence .. after removing the fuel tank, and the air cleaner, Plenum to give clearance to remove the valve covers.. use your air hose with a air gun to blow the dirt away from your spark plug holes, so no dirt falls in the spark plug holes into the engine.. removing the spark plugs, makes it possible to rotate the crankshaft to put the valves in position to do two things rt8, the cam lobe away from The valve shims.. that’s when you measure the clearance with a feeler gauge make sure you have a large blank piece of paper and draw 16 circles in two different rows with an arrow facing towards the front of the engine and front wheel. So you can write the clearance for each valve inside that circle after you measure the clearance for each valve.. if you find a valve that is too loose or too tight/out of spec, then you rotate the crankshaft so that the cam lobe will compress that particular valve.. there are two different types of tools you could use to hold the shim bucket that goes over the valve spring, it just looks like a small piston, the tool holds that cylinder that they shim is on top of down in the fully compressed position.. then you rotate the cam shaft or the crankshaft in the Direction away from that tool, so you don’t disturb it. That gives you enough clearance to remove the shim using a small pic I use a Dentist type tool and a small magnet to gently lift, the shim, and the magnet snatches it out of there.. each shim will have numbers etched in it to give the value of the thickness.. make a record of that on your sheet of paper for each valve.. I have always been able to juggle/swap shims from valve to valve to get valves within spec clearance.. it is not difficult, it’s just time consuming. It’s not one big job, it’s a bunch of little jobs… when you reinstall a shim, always always install the shim with the numbers etched on the shim down, so the camshaft will not wear the numbers off the shim.. i’m not positive. But I know that the shims used by Yamaha are the same size as the shims used in Kawasaki engines, and possibly suzuki engines from the 70s and 80s. I had a 1973 Kawasaki Z1 - 903.. I still have the tool and shims from that machine that are exactly the same slashinterchangeable as the Yamaha shims in my Venture. My point is, suzuki, and Kawasaki dealers will also have the shims.. that’s if you can’t switch/juggle shims from valve to valve.. you can probably pick up that tool for holding the lift her down after you compress the valve spring from someone on eBay for under $20. There are two different styles as I mentioned, one clamps onto the cylinder, head to hold the valve, lifter down, and another one is shaped like a? That slides around the cam, and holds both lifters down. while you rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to move, the cam lobes out of the way to extract the valve shims.. before you even start the job. Use your air gun to blow as much dust and dirt from under your gas tank so you don’t bump something and knock dirt inside your opened engine. Also pick up a tube of silicone, dielectric, grease for your spark, plug wires. They are in a very hostile environment and you want to fully coat your spark plug wires from the coil all the way down to the spark plug with dielectric grease to waterproof them and to help prevent them from cracking from being baked.. pick up a new set of NGK spark plugs from your motorcycle dealer or from advance auto parts. They stock them. Do not buy your ngk spark plugs on eBay because there’s a high risk of them being counterfeit. One quick test to see if you have Kounterfeit spark plugs is, if you can get the washer off easily, it’s counterfeit.. The NGK spark plug numbers are DPR8EA-9.. you can also use Denso brand of spark plugs I don’t know the numbers. Don’t buy any fancy expensive spark plugs because they cannot increase voltage and make your bike run faster or better. The only way you can increase voltage is by upgrading the coils, which you do not need… after adjusting your vowels, even if you had just done your carburetor, synchronization, you need to synchronize the carburetors again, anytime, you change valve, shims, even just one, because you’ve changed the duration/timing of when the valve opens and closes on one of the cylinders, even if you only change one valve shim. So you have to balance the carburetors. I have a couple videos on TH-cam showing how to do that with mercury sticks., and I have another video showing how to synchronize the carburetors using analog vacuum gauges.. that is also a very simple procedure to synchronize the carburetors. There are only three screws that you need to turn to balance, the carburetion, in a nutshell. you balance to to right side carburetors together by turning one screw on the bell crank linkage to balance to two other carburetors on the left side to each other, turning that screw between the two carburetors on the bell crank linkage.. The final screw you turn to balance, the two right carburetors to the two left carburetors, you access from the right side of the bike under the carburetors with a number to Phillips screwdriver, at least 12 inches long. That is the final screw you turn to balance the right bank to the left bank and you’re done... unless you understand that you must balance the two rights and the two left side carburetors -FIRST !!!’ then, and only then, do you try to balance the rights to the left. You do not touch those screws on the bell cracks between the rights and the left ever again once you get those two sets of carburetors balanced to each other. Then you balance with that final screw the right bank to the left Bank. That’s the last screw you turn. You would be amazed at how many people do not know that sequence of adjustment .. if you don’t know that sequence, you will never get it.. it’s so simple, it’s easy to get wrong.. whileyou have your gas tank off, take a look at your fuel filter, which is behind the battery under the seat.. I forgot to mention, disconnect, your battery, just for safety, there is one other pain in the ass maintenance chore on the ventures.. I did a video on swingarm lube. I did another video on rear wheel maintenance. You’ll need a good set of snap ring pliers to get the snap ring off of the rear wheel push drive hub to remove that thing that looks like a gear assembly from the rear wheel so you can lube those pins that are inserted into those rear rubber mounted bushings in the rear wheel hub. I did mine when I installed new tires, and I will do mine every time I install new tires. Once I have the wheel off, it’s only a 15 minute job. The hardest part of the job of lubing those pens is getting the snap ring off and back on. They say those pins get rusty and start to make noise that people can’t figure out where it’s coming from. When I removed my rear porch drive hub, which in the parts book is called a clutch for some reason. My pins were slightly rusty. I put waterproof grease on them after cleaning and buttoned it back up… if you’re going to do your rear swingarm, bearing clean and lube like I did, which is recommended at 16,000 miles and every 16,000 miles after that, I change the oil in my shock, absorber while I have the swing arm off.. I just pulled off the air hose, let the shock drain overnight into a measuring cup. And I put in the exact amount of oil that I get out of it back in using a turkey baster syringe. You can buy at TJ Maxx. That’s the easiest way to get that oil into the shock is by using a giant syringe. I just used fork oil. seven weight.. of course you can’t do any of the swingarm or shock maintenance. Unless you have a scissor lift, jack, and I have a video on my TH-cam channel demonstrating mine that I bought on eBay for 50 bucks, I think they’re 70 bucks now. That is a must have tools for any motorcycle that does not have a center stand. let me know if you’re going to do any of those procedures, I will give you information on how I did it if it will help.. you have to remove the mufflers and the saddlebags to get the rear wheel off once you jack the bike up. It’s just for screws to remove each saddlebag. I mentioned that I could remove one of the saddlebags on my venture while holding my breath once I have the bag empty. And I’m not kidding. I would use an air ratchet to turn those four screws to be able to do that holding my breath. It is not difficult. The mufflers are held on by one bolt under the bag, and one strap clamp where the muffler meets the header. It is not difficult to remove the bags or the mufflers. While you have the mufflersoffice a good time to clean them and put a good coat of metal polish on them to prevent corrosion. Let me know if I can help

@@jasonprashaw3916 I made this seat patch repair video last spring in 2023… Still holding

don’t you know that no good deed goes unpunished? Please don’t tell Santa I’ve been naughty we attempted to stop the deer from eating our schrubs , plants, flowers, very old rose of sharon.. for years my wife would spray different things on everything.. it would work sometimes, but not for long.. One year I had pumpkins the size of basketballs over near the woods. The deer wiped them out in one night. Same with corn I planted one year… they also hop the fence I have around my box garden, over near the woods in the sun, head to make the fence 2 feet taller.. The deer were knocking down my birdfeeder poles. If you notice in the background, my birdfeeders are 8 feet off the ground, and that silver thing that looks like a lampshade is my own invention, that absolutely stopped the squirrels from getting at the birdfeeders. so, in an attempt to distract them away from everything we plant every year, we started attracting them away from those things with corn. The peanuts were for the squirrels, but the turkeys and the deer Iike them too. The turkeys swallow the peanuts hole… houses nearby have had bears raiding. Their garbage can about five years ago, I’ve been here for decades I’ve never seen a bear or a coyote. But I have Heard the coyotes atnight a couple times. At least I think it was coyotes because we were sleeping with the windows open one night, and I heard sort of a high pitch cackling.. i’m guessing that was coyotes. I am not a hunter .never did..

@0lay11889 quit being such a butt head.He isn't hurting nobody..

@@DA-ou7hv all these cures for problems that don’t really exist. my BMW, K 1200 LT had some type of anti-dive front end. And it had grabby electric/hydraulic computer controlled antilock brakes. it is the only motorcycle over the past four decades that I dropped twice, atwalking speed. usually, when you touch the brakes on a motorcycle, the inertia is absorbed by the front fork springs as they compress, and that energy from the springs is dissipated by the forks oil damping the rebound.. Except on that front and BMW has/had?? when I hit the brakes, that energy did not go into the forks, all I did was make the bike feel very top-heavy, and I had the handlebars turned in the parking lot, and when I tapped the grabby electric, no feel brakes, that top heaviness was amplified, and I could not hold up at 900+ pound motorcycle .. I was at a motorcycle gathering, and I saw three riders riding the same model BMW I had. I explain to them that I dropped my bike twice over the past year at walking speeds. They all started laughing and said “welcome to the club, everybody drops them.”... they all showed me their mirrors. We’re heavily scarred from tipovers at slow speed… when I was selling Yamaha’s in the early 80s part time, I remember the first time I rode a motorcycle with anti-dive. It was the new 1981 Yamaha 750 Seca.. I was taking a customer for a test ride on a road I was very familiar with. I approached a corner that I I had been around hundreds of times, and I wanted to impress the possible buyer, so I took it at a brisk pace. I had to break before the corner. It was my first time on that machine. The motorcycle did not dive on the forks. I almost lost it… I have no idea what the advantage of anti-dive could possibly be for a street bike.. Both of my Honda Pacific coast motorcycles had some type of a anti-dive fork that restricted fork oil flow I believe. I think my 1986 Yamaha venture royale also had some type of a break activated anti-dive system, restricting, fork, oil flow. I did not notice it on those machines, but I sure noticed it on my BMW and that Yamaha 750 Seca. Honda nt700 Has a nice neutral stable, slow steering feel to it for a shaft drive… it doesn’t have any bad manners as far as I can tell so far .. but I have to remind myself from now on that it has integrated brakes.. it probably won’t give me any close calls, but it is possible to get caught out in the snow. And when going down a steep hill on a street bike with street tires in the snow, which I have done on several occasions getting caught at work during unexpected snow squalls while riding my motorcycle that day, you don’t even want to think about touching the front brake on a slippery icy road going downhill. You only want to use the rear brake to maintain your crawl down a steep slippery slope. But on a machine with integrated brakes that apply front brake pressure no matter which break you use, that makes it pretty risky, because on a slippery icy surface, going downhill, you don’t want that front wheel locking.. if the machine had ABS, you wouldn’t have any breaks at all in that situation, nothing. That happened to me on my BMW K 1200 LT on a gravel downhill road. When I touched the brakes to maintain about 35 miles an hour, I had nothing, no breaks at all front or rear all the way down that hill. I was pumping the brakes, I was alternating the brakes, I was thinking of an escape. I had time to think, do I jump off? do I aim for something cheap, should I shut the key off, I was lucky there was a salvage yard at the bottom of the hill with a high fence around it made of wire that I ran into to stop. When my new front fender came in, which got broken hitting that fence, I got rid of that bike. I think ABS on a motorcycle is dangerous because that front wheel is the one that’s gonna save your life., and I found out the hard way that ABS means, all breaking stops. I’m just lucky that steep Hill did not lead onto a, four Lane busy highway or into a school zone were children were crossing at the bottom of the hill.. They keep coming up with cures for problems that don’t exist

@@1stpaintballmaster it was too nice a day this late in the year to not go for a ride.

@@jeremys3987 thanks jeremy..were you getting water in the cab?? I did spray down in that area with fluid film when I did the rest of the truck five days after I brought it home new.. i’m gonna keep my eye on this area, i’m going to see if I can make a video in there using one of my helmet cameras, but I don’t know if they will focus in that tight area.. thanks for the explanation/description of what those two square areas are when I mentioned that the leaves were stacking up from the ledge, I meant the wide ledge down at the bottom of that gap also. Not just on those two plastic squares. That entire area behind the cab was packed with wet leaves on my truck. That ledge I’m talking about. Looks like it’s about 20 inches wide that runs between the cab and the bed at the very bottom of that gap… I could easily see how leaves being trapped in that area would rub through the paint because the cab flexes and moves independently of the bed. And that would make the leaves move and scrub both areas ..

​@Jodyrides I haven't got any water in my cab yet thankfully. I park inside my barn so I never get leaves piling up on that ledge. And I spray down in there everytime I go to the car wash. But I could see how that would allow water running down to get better access into those 2 cab vents if the flaps were stuck open and it was raining heavy. My brother in law has a 22' 2500 with the cargo camera/third brake light, and he was telling me he saw water dripping from the rear headliner a day prior. When I walked over and looked at it I noticed the third break light had a bunch of water in it. The gasket was junk at 2.5 years! It was replaced under warranty but the issue is that the gaskets on these lights are poor quality so it will happen again. I found a place called Detroit Muscle Technologies that makes quality gaskets for these trucks in house. The company actually makes high end seals and gaskets for classic cars so thats reassuring. I ended up purchasing one for my truck and they are reasonably priced. Definitely check that "ledge" out next spring. You can push up on it from under the truck and see if it's rubbed through the paint like mine has.. the biggest issue with mine it's hard plastic for about 2" and then has the rubber flap seal at the end of it where it goes up against the cab..Well, maybe the distance between the bed and cab on my truck is closer together than others but the rubber flap is pushed down and the part that rubs my cab is right where the plastic and rubber seal are fused together. At least there is a bunch of Fluid Film in there now to lubricate it while it's rubbing.😂

@@FeathersAndFurOfNJ just be glad it’s not cats. When we first moved into this house in the late 80s and my kids were all under age 5. One day when we were having lunch on our back porch three little kitties popped up out of the woods. My wife and kids fell in love with them, they all had names, we got the cats fixed, I made heated houses for them on the back porch that were heated with 100 W lightbulb under the house, we were buying big bags of cat food, and cases of canned. cat food then, another stray cat, find the free ride on our back porch, and she had a litter in the heated house. Just to move forward, she had a second litter the following year, we ended up with 19 cats here. We got them all fixed, we were going through cat food like it was going out of style, my wife won’t tell me what it cost to have those cats fixed by the vet that had a mobile hospital that came here. and fixed the cats gradually catching them all I build more houses for the cats, they lived on our back porch, the result of having 19 cats here that were fixed so they wouldn’t stink up the place and keep having other cats. They wiped out every living thing for probably a half a mile in all directions. Every day I would find squirrels, chipmunks, woodpecker’s, mice, frogs, turtles, koi fish from somebody’s pond around here still living flopping around on the back porch. Baby birds by the dozens dissect it on our back porch every spring, my kids loved the cats, but they were able to ignore the devastation. They were closing in the valley here. finally after about $40,000 in vet bills and feeding the cats and keeping five 100 W lightbulbs heating five houses for five months of the year, the final cap expired, and I got my back porch back, and now about six years later, the animal population has recovered. The only animals they didn’t kill were raccoons, deer, and possums. we go through about 300 pounds of corn and livestock feed every six weeks for the deer and the turkeys and about 40 pounds of peanuts every three months for the squirrels and chipmunks and deer, even the turkeys, swallow the peanuts whole.. we started feeding the deer to try to keep them from eating all of our shrubbery and bushes and flowers and garden vegetables but it didn’t work. They practically eat everything. Sometimes when we come home from shopping, there will be deer and turkey lounging on our backyard next to the pool waiting for us to get home. My wife loves them, and I don’t mind I just don’t wanna start attracting coyotes which we have around here, I can hear them cackling, sometimes at night, and bears. A neighbor, not too far away has pictures he showed me of bears, ripping his garbage apart.

@ I’m in North NJ so we rarely get a bear. Yeah I’m definitely spending a little more than I’d like 😂 but that’s exactly what happened to me. To stop them from eating my garden we were feeding them. Then they kept showing up everyday. Then more came. Most was 12 at one time. I’ve had 4 bucks come by my backyard this rutting season they HAVE to smell my yard from a mile away 😂

I wish I never heard of it also. My carpet behind the driver seat were damp under the seat and an emergency, hooded work coat I kept folded under that seat was saturated and moldy. So it had been leaking for a while when I discovered it last year in 2023. so I went on TH-cam to see if someone posted a video on the source of this leak, there are a few that mentioned the rear brake light above the rear window, then others mention that it’s the rear window I didn’t see any water tracks or evidence of leakage around the rear window, or on my headliner from possibly the roof antenna, but I siliconed them anyway. while I was doing that, I discovered all those wet leaves that had apparently been lodged between the cab and the bed of my truck for a long time. When I cleared them, I saw those two square plastic areas on the back of the cab down about 18 inches from the bottom of the window. If those are somehow mounted to the back of the cab with a possible path for water to wick its way in, I think that those leaves may have been keeping a water supply to those plastic squares on the back of the cab that allow the water to work its way in, mainly on the drivers side below the window/under the seat.. I just thought I would mention it in case anyone else is having this issue like myself, and those others that have posted videos on TH-cam about this

@@6n518 my 2017 ram that I bought new so I know it was never in an accident, is leaking. I had to get some things from under the driver side rear seat in that cubbyhole. The things that were in there were moldy and the carpet was damp… so I went on TH-cam to see if anyone else had this problem and what it might be. And there are other TH-camrs explaining that they have the same issue and how they fix it.. some say, it’s the brake light gasket, I didn’t see any evidence of that, but I really silicone the gasket that was in one piece and put it back together. And I silicone very carefully with a very very fine point on the nozzle as I applied a very tiny bead of silicone on the top of the gasket at the top of the window.. then I discovered those three holes in the gasket at the bottom of the gasket that I am guessing that our drain holes. I cleaned those out. so while I was cleaning out those gasket holes, I noticed that the gap between the cab and the bed was packed with leaves, which I show in my video.. when I cleaned that area out, I noticed two black plastic squares on the back of the cab halfway down from the window halfway up from the floor, one on each side. They were covered with these wet leaves. I could see if those are vents of some kind, I could see how water could find its way into the cab through those vent holes if they were covered with wet leaves that could allow water to wick its way in to the cab. The driver side floor behind the driver was the area that the carpets were damp.. I suspected the antenna boot, which is also on the driver side as being the way water was getting in, but I see no staining on my headliner or the walls of the cabin in that area.. I want to figure this out because, my wife when she was my girlfriend back in the 70s bought a brand new VW rabbit. About a year later we got married and we had that car for seven years. I sold it to a friend of mine that I worked with. On his way to work one morning the car literally folded in half. It broke in half straight down from the windshield behind the front wheels. The floor was on the ground and the car was buckled. it turns out those 1970s rabbits allowed water into the cab by the antenna cable which was mounted on the passenger side Front fender. The water would follow the cable and into the cab, and under the carpets and rubber mats, that water was not detected for years. The carpets and the rubber mats made sure the water didn’t evaporate. so I have seen firsthand what can happen to the floor of a vehicle when water gets under the carpets where it can’t evaporate.. I keep my trucks for a long time. They are not work trucks. I have never been without a truck since I was 17. I bought a 1978 Ford Econoline 150 van brand new in 1977, and I drove that van for 31 years. So I like to keep my vehicles for a long time, especially my trucks, I’m just trying to make this ram last as long as possible

@@markiewarkiemark8481 when I first got my NT700 back in November 2023, I did some online research to find out what common problems they had… water pump, impeller, and water pump seal failure was the number one most common.. i’m assuming that the silicates in antifreeze are abrasive to the impeller shaft at the seal. And because of that you have to use a very low silicate aluminum compatible antifreeze/. coolant.. The second most common problem with the NT 700 is the spark plug caps after they get older, especially in hot climates. I have experienced that myself, and I don’t live in a hot climate….. when I was chasing the Blocked fuel filter, issue on my machine, and when I finally got that cleared up. My machine still acted as though it add fuel injector misbehavior… in the absolute fairy first video I put on TH-cam on the first ride I took on this bike to go get gas and to get the oil hot . as soon as the machine warmed up after about 5 miles, within two minutes of getting gas, for the first time, the machine started, hesitating occasionally, it did it about 10 times in that first video ride. I mentioned it as soon as it started happening, and I. remarked about it in the video every time I did it.. I never experienced those symptoms on any of my previous motorcycles over the decades. Usually you think something like that would happen when the bike was cold, but this started when the bike warmed up and with fresh gasoline. It turned out to be the spark plug caps… The symptoms were hesitation after warm-up occasionally, and occasionally stalling, when pulling up to a stop sign or a traffic light. But it would start right up instantly after stalling. I replaced the spark plug caps with OEM, NGK, spark plug caps, and I used dielectric grease on the spark plug wires all the way up to the coils. And it has not had a hesitation since… Honda was just about to do a worldwide recall to replace all those spark plug caps on the Honda nt700 owner. But they decided the way to handle it was, just replace them every time one of those machines was brought to any dealer for any type of service. The dealer got instructions from Honda to just replace them free of charge every time those machines come in to the service dept for anything… in a semirelated story. When I first bought my 2002 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing from the original owner with 13 K miles on it…. I changed every fluid I could think of on that machine, including the fork oil, and clutch fluid, which came out looking like an old melted chocolate milkshake.. Machine was 16 years old when I bought it, it still had the original tires on it, and the air filter had never been changed.. but I could not find the fuel filter. It wasn’t even mentioned in the owners manual and I had the original Honda 2 inch sick service manual. I had to remove the gas tank to get to the rear shock to change the rear shock spring when I upgraded the springs in the forks and the shock.. after I got the anti-700 and found out where the fuel filter was on the NT 700, that’s when it dawned on me that that must be where the fuel filter on my Goldwing was, because they have the same type of filter, and probably the same part number(probably???) my point being, if those filters plugging up is a common problem with the NT700s, then it should be a problem for Goldwings--???? But, the fuel pump on the Goldwing is mounted at the top of the gas tank just below the seat. The circle with the bolts that hold the cassette in place, which contains the fuel pump is on top of the gas tank on the Goldwing, maybe that is an advantage of her having the fuel pump made to the bottom of the gas tank is on the nt700.. just maybe they fuel filters on Goldwing so less likely to get plugged because of gravity, and the anti-700 fuel filter is more likely to get clogged because of its location at the bottom of the tank, where all the foreign material will be more accessible to the fuel pump??

@@markiewarkiemark8481 makes sense call me down that you mention it, all my manual impact drivers came with a flattened nose on the Phillips number three bits.. I couldn’t count how many of those have shattered on me, the way that a snap on screwdriver with a hardened tip on it shatters. They don’t round off, they just explode. not the number threes but the number twos. when I was a mechanic, I always used my electric impact gun with a number three Daniel impact tool, Phillips bit, and they were always blunt nosed, now that you mention it but the funny part of that is, when looking up parts on the parts fish, they identify those screws as Phillips on the exploded parts diagrams back in the 70s when they used Phillips on the Yamaha RDs and the Kawasaki, two stroke triples, and the Honda CB 350s, which I put more than a few top ends in those engines What you said about Phillips screws does make sense now that I think of it. Thanks, I never knew that.

@@robbrob100 The Honda rack miles to the motorcycle with bolts.. The trunk uses no bolts or hardware to attach to the rack.. The trunk slides into a catchslashslot at the Ford part of the trunk rack. And the trunk itself then rotates down till it is level on the rack and it latches to the rack. To remove the trunk you use a key that came with the trunk that has a red. Head on the key for you to turn the key, where you grab the key, it is a red key. You turn that key once you have it into the trunk latch, mechanism, and you push that red button on the back of the trunk to release the latch, allowing you to lift the trunk a few inches, that way it on the hooks from the slot in the front of the rack and you can lift the trunk off. The rack, bolts on, the trunk latches on

@@robbrob100 I guess I should’ve asked, is it a Honda line rack and trunk made for this machine? Is the trunk the same color as the motorcycle? That would kind of verify that the trunk is probably made for this motorcycle, look at the bottom of the trunk just below the backrest pad and you will see where the parts of the trunk that hook onto the Honda line trunk rack are.. If you have trouble figuring it out, I will make a video for you and put it on TH-cam, let me know

@@Jodyrides it’s a Honda one , matches the colour of the bike , I was looking into it , and it seems I’m missing a mounting plate that the trunk mounting plate has to be fitted to

@@paulradice3534 you are correct, but that removes paint, even washing your car removes paint every time.. I learned that from a chemist, it worked for PPG, the paint division. He was retired when I knew him back in the 70s. He had an international car or truck whatever they’re called it’s like an SUV from those days, they dipped those things in zinc. He never washed it. because I asked him about it since he lived near me. And he explained… I also do not experiment with new miracle coatings like ceramic or there was a product called new finish that is still on the market. I tried it in the early 1980s on my two year old Ford van that I bought new. It was the one that was advertised as “the once a year car polish quoteit comes in an orange, oval bottle shaped like a hip flask. I put that on my two year old van, and about a month later, I brushed up against it with my hand, and I had red paint pigment on my hand. That stuff ruined my paint. The problem with that was, I had that van for 31 years. It was red. And red paint is the one that is the most difficult to make because the pigments For red paint are very deep in the Earth compared to other pigments used for paint color.. One other little thing. my last pick up truck, a GMC canyon that I bought new, the one I got rid of with 42,000 miles on it because under the truck was completely covered with sheets of rusty decaying metal from the salt they throw here. I didn’t use fluid film on that truck because the owners manual said I would void the warranty if I did that. So I was confident did General Motors had confidence in their corrosion protection.. until I really investigated some years later, when I had to put brake rotors on the front, and I saw the extent of the rust. I washed the truck maybe twice or three times a year. When I traded that rust bucket in on my ram, it looked like new. it shined, it had no dents, the bed had no scratches because it was not a work truck, if I’m gonna have transportation, I have transportation I can use as a truck also or pulling a trailer, which is how I transported my motorcycles for the whole family when we would go dirtbike riding, we only use the bed of the truck for all the gear and gas cans.. but that truck literally looked like it was maybe six months old when it was nine years old. Just like my ram, it looked great, the paint shined, they actually gave me full retail price when I traded it in on my ram. Trade in value with something like $12,000, average retail with something like 15,000., they gave me $17,000 for it on trade, after I beat up three different dealers to get the best price which was over $10,000 off of sticker without paying all the BS charges like dealer prep, Scotchgard on the seats, road hazard warranty for the tires, paint protection, warranty, even etched glass, where they edge the serial number of the vehicle in the glass that they claim that reduces the chances of the vehicle being stolen for the glass.. I don’t fall for any of that stuff because I’ve worked with car salesman when I sold motorcycles for 17 years and I’ve learned a lot of the tricks that dealers pull on customers to shake them by the ankles a little more.. but my point is, I only washed that 4 x 4, crew, cab, GMC canyon less than 30 times in nine years, and the paint looked fabulous. That’s why they gave me the actual Kelley blue book, retail value for the truck, which also saved me paying taxes on a smaller cash difference.. but you are correct, running your hand across my paint, I can feel that there are particles still attached to the paint in places. Because my truck sits out 365 days a year in the sun… but using some abrasive or wax with cleaner, or even using that Claybar, could possibly damage the clearcoat by going over the same area with clay that has particles trapped in the surface of the clay. So I just put pure carnauba wax without cleaner on my truck, over the embedded particles. my truck is eight years old soon to be 9.. i’m sure it could look better if I use a Claybar on it, and some very mild buffing compound and an Orbital buffer, which I have a porter cable DA.. and I have a Dewalt buffer. but you better know what you’re doing when you use one of those things because you can burn through the paint on the corners in an instant.. I know just enough about it to realize that I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to those things. I’m not really concerned with how it looks as much as I’m concerned with protecting it. but you are right, you have a keen eye !!

@@florinovidiubors117 these engines and all engines make some sounds. The sound you hear the most on the Yamaha Venture V4 motorcycle engine is that continuous whine.. The tone of the sound increases in pitch, just like going up the keyboard on the piano… that is 100% normal. assuming we are talking about the same sound common to all these engines, that sound is a gear on the left side of your engine crankshaft. just like a bicycle crank where the pedals are connected, has a gear that the chain transmits the power from your pedals to the gear/sprocket on the rear wheel.. you provide to the horsepower on a bicycle by peddling. You turning the crank at the pedals, and the energy gets transmitted to the rear wheel by the chain. on your motorcycle The engine has that gear on the left side of the engine. Rather than using a chain which some motorcycles do use to transmit the power from the crankshaft to the input shaft of the transmission, the ventures use primary gears, two gears. One on the end of the crankshaft spins a larger gear around the outside of the clutch basket. what you are hearing is the sound of those gears meshing.. that is the most efficient way to transmit power from the crankshaft to the transmission, there is no maintenance like there is with a primary chain which Harley Davidson‘s use. Those chains gets sloppy and worn, and they have tensioners that have to keep them from becoming too loose.. so the sound your hearing is 100% normal, it is just your primary gears on the end of the crankshaft and around the clutch housing/basket which spins the transmission shafts constantly as long as the engine is running, whether you are in gear or not..

@@natewitt6334 I’ll make a video for you