You are the most ridiculously brilliant teacher on this subject! What a marvelous educator you are. I learned so much. Thank you kind sir for making this video!! :-)
I have watched video after video about doing pour in place concrete counter tops and this has been an excellent tutorial. So many of the other videos glaze over the problems you will run into when pouring in place, leaving you in a panic while you are working with wet concrete. I appreciate that you show what happens when you vibrate and how important it is to go back in and fix those low spots.
Thank you so much! Im glad that this video has helped you along on your projects! It does take a lot of effort to film and edit a project, especially in a situation like this where you're doing a real job! (It makes a second or third take hard😲) Thanks for recognizing that. Good luck with your pour!!
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 Also I saw some poured concrete sinks on your preview video and I am hoping that you will do a video on them in the future. Other companies just ask you to buy their custom sink form, but the price of the form takes away any savings you would have making your own sink.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I think people can be so critical of youtube video without understanding the effort it takes to make a video to help others. You obviously had another person around who was helping your film the whole time and I am thankful to that person as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and giving me the confidence to do this at my home.
Thank you SO MUCH! I've watched A LOT of videos on this subject and your two are the absolute BEST. You seem like a really nice person too. Thanks again! 😊👍🤗👀💥
HOW EXCITING!!! POUR DAY! I am a simple home owner. I am remodeling my house from top to bottom. My wife and I are turning two bedrooms into a big master, soon we will be pouring in place the vanity counter top.
Man, I really wanted to see that kitchen all finished! My husband and I have done concrete counter tops, but we are going to do them over in the kitchen because I feel like they are too thick and look funny, among other reasons (if round 2 comes out good, then great, we're done...if not, then we'll go for round 3...lol). Thank you for showing a cast in place where there is a wall on the backside (I swear NO ONE who did a DIY video would do one with a wall, always an island!), and showing how to screed in that situation (that was basically how I did it, but wasn't sure if I was doing it correctly, so thanks!). At this point, I think we are going to go ahead and just do them outside, though (now that we actually have counter tops...we were using plywood before the concrete tops we did so were kind of desperate lol). Either way, I have learned a few things from your vid. Thank you!!!
Totally appreciate you and the time made on the videos. May God bless you sir with more wisdom and strategies for future business and videos! May your hard work return to you 10 fold!
Did you use a regular sink and concrete it into place or an under mounted sink and just drop it in like a normal sink? Idk if theres a difference there. Also will you not be able to change the sink ever?
I just poured my 4x8 island top, but I didn’t pour in place. Was to worried I couldn’t finish the top smooth enough so I poured it in a form using melamine. I only made it 1 1/2 thick with alot of rebar. Little worried about the transferring to place it. It might crack due to the stress of lifting it.
brilliant video @DIYConcreteCountertops I'm looking to do something similar only for a hearth .... 4 x 0.6 x 0.5m hearth lol. it's backed to the wall.. reckon I'll try a couple of trials first as I've not a notion what I'm doing... all I know is I'd love a clean finish .
Thanks for this very informative video. Could you please do a video addressing the difference between this cure in place method vs the cure in a form and then move it in place method? The latter doesn't seem to need as much floating and troweling? Thanks. You just gained a subscriber.
Extremely well done series. THANK YOU. I have a cabin that we close down in the winter in the Northwest. If all your steps are followed is there more risk of cracking down the road etc?
Cracking shouldn't really be a concern if the steps are followed. If there is cracking down the road the mesh and the fiber will work to keep them from separating. Any cracks should remain 'hairline' and nearly undetectable, that is if there are even any at all.
Great video! Can I ask, do the PVA fibers show through if you were to sand down to the aggregate? Some people say don't use fibers in a cast in place situation, only in the second half of a precast mould. Thanks!
If that were the case you capfuls use it in the middle pour of the cast in place, vibrate and then finish. That would put it in relatively the same locationthe same
Thank you so much for the two videos on setting up this mold and all the tips and tricks on pouring. Such great info as I embark on doing this myself. Question though, what is the yellow item that it looks like you have pressed into the front of the Zmold?
Yes, they are form liners, also available through zcounterforms. They give the concrete edge an accent of your choosing, stone, chiseled, etc. There are a lot of pictures available on google. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos! You're very good at what you do! I'm going to try this with house i bought to flip. I can't find small hand tampers, though. Any links for those? Thanks!
Yes they were stained. There are some cool stain techniques out there and some much better technicians than me. Thats why Ive kind of shied away from stain videos.
I wonder if you could do a video on the z form countertops live edge silicone forms? I like the heavy chiseled slate one, but am afraid of being my own beta tester and would love to see it being done. However, the z form folks don't have a video for it.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 apologies. I watched the whole thing and must have missed them. They're called heavy chiseled slate on the z form website. I'm doing my forms and wire mesh as we speak. :)
Great video. I am just getting ready to make my island countertop. I will pour the concrete on a mold and flip it after. I noticed that you did not add Raw Portland cement into this mix. Is this because they are pour in place countertops? Are the ratios of the addmixes for a mold countertop the same as the ones you specify in this video? Do you have a link of the shrink reducing addmixure? Thanks for sharing your knowledge it is of great help!
I didnt add it in here simply bc I knew the job would perform fine without it (quality cabinets, no large spans, not transporting, etc). Adding it will help with a few things: it will aid in finishing by adding 'cream'. It can help enhance stain colors. It can add strength, although the 5000 mix is already sufficient without it. I dont have a link for the SRA, I buy it locally. Thanks for watching!
Any reason why you couldn't strap a vibrating thing to the screed bar? Seems the back form edge gives you little space to shift back and forth. Also could you apply vibration against the bottom of the cement board to level?
I linked to it in the description. It typically wont show up if you dont overdose it. Another option is to use it on the lower fill material and then cut it out of the top, face coat. It helps to not over-trowel the mix, a hard burnish will expose it. If some does show up it can be singed off with a propane torch. Just be sure to move quickly as the torch can pop the concrete.
This is the Zform recommended method. Ive never had anyone need or request a sink replacement. That said I suppose that it has probably happened somewhere at sometime to someone.
Wear a respirator when working around dry concrete just to be safe. My neighbor’s brother died of lung cancer. Good ole Mormon boy so he didn’t smoke, but worked with concrete.
Is there a limit how how big of an area to do with pour in place counters? The whole space is about 8 cubic feet and we want to make sure we minimize cracking. We were originally planning to pour in molds and transfer, but I think that will get to heavy.
There are a lot of variables to your question. I have poured large 40 inch wide by 20 foot long outdoor top at 2" thick using a counter-specific mix without any cracking. So a fairly large piece can be poured with minimal cracking as long as you follow proper procedure. Use a good quality mix, reinforce with fiber/remesh/chemicals as needed and ensure the top is adequately supported from underneath. Thanks for watching!!
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 did you just use your existing counters? If so, did you have to reinforce? Got maple Formica stuff from early 80's, cabinets prolly built better then? Durarock seems excessive, and too much work, to redo the counters I am already redoing. Hummmm..
They just snap off of the front. Lean down on the plastic with your body weight. The rear forms get covered by your backsplash. If that doesnt answer your question let me know what in particular youre wondering about.
@@damon79 The hardieboard stays. The rear form gets covered by backsplash. The front 'zform' snaps off on the scored corner. A very small amount of the 'zform' will remain on the underside. It is neither visible nor intrusive.
Could you compare the texture of your mix with that of other people's mix? Why so thick? Why not use a pancake batter consistency without aggregate? Which is better? Why? Thank you!
This video series is aimed at the DIYer who doesnt want to opt for the specialized mixes. I used an off-the-shelf mix from the local home supply store and showed how to modify it to be strong enough for the average top.
Great videos! I am pouring my entire kitchen counters. The time between when I put the mix, quikcrete countertop mix, in my sample forms and when it’s time to hard trowel is about 7 hours!!! So long. I mixed everything inside the house at 65 degrees. Should it be warmer? I end up doing the hard troweling at night, kind of frustrating.
7 hours is a long time (I have a simple pro tip for speeding dry times. Ill leave it for you at the end of this comment). As far as your extended dry time It could be due to a few things: first and most obvious, is your mix too wet? Is there excessive 'bleed water' (visible, pooling water on top of the placed concrete)? Keep your mix as dry as you can without making it unworkable. Next, are you using a water reducer? a water reducer will help with dry times AND strength (remember, ALL water has to pass through the top of the pour, not like a driveway or sidewalk where the dirt underneath helps wick it away). Lastly, there are addmixtures known as 'accelerators' that will chemically reduce dry times, though they may not be the best option here. As far as an easy solution for you; try experimenting with using luke warm (90F-120F) water when mixing. Concrete dry times can be easily manipulated using hot or cold water when batching. Just be careful not to go too extreme (170Fish I think??) as aggregate expansion, thermal shock etc can cause major problems. A simple box fan blowing over the pieces will help also. Sorry, that was long winded
I also find I don’t have to mess with it that much, damping, vibrating, and floating in the beginning then letting it get rid of water for the next hours.
I hope that reducing the water helps. BTW, Are you using a bagged mix from one of the countertop specialists? Or from the local home improvement store?
Have you ever made light weight concrete using Portland Cement with perlite and vermiculite as the aggregate? I have made Hypertufa planters with such a mix.
Im familiar with the concept but have never poured with DIY lightweight. From what I understand the strength requirements arent high enough for tops. Have you used the mix for any counter or table tops?
It might help, but to what extent Im unsure. Generally when lightweight is a requirement I hear of GFRC being used as the solution. It can be poured very thin without compromising strength.
Hi! Thanks so much for your videos! I just poured my first and they turned out great! However, I can see clumps of the PVA fibers in the finished concrete. I would like to use a wet grinder/polisher with diamond pads to make the top smoother, but, I'm afraid it will expose more of the fibers and, possibly, reveal little fuzzy spots on the surface. Any suggestions? Have a great day!
If I have a fiber hair sticking out of the surface I will take a propane torch and sweep over the area using a very quick motion. This will singe the fibers back to the surface. Keep the flame moving! If the flame stays in 1 spot it can cause severe damage (the moisture and aggregates will expand at different rates and blow pieces of the surface off at high speeds). Be sure to keep that flame moving.
Hold one here, so what you're saying is you don't just wave the screed over the form and voila perfectly finished and beautiful finish? This looks like real work.
Yay for little home concrete mixers that will run on sunlight! Not so yay for getting that close to a cloud of cement powder without a dust mask. Replacement lungs aren't easy to get!
Typically the manufacturer will specify that. It varies from product to product. The best advise I can offer is choose a brand and they'll have a complete system. Thanks for watching.
Its at 14:20 of your "How to mix, pour and..." video But that picture is used in several of your montages. It's a bathroom sink with a square ramped basin. I believe it's the one you made in the other video. I love all of your staining actually and would love to see how you do all of your stains but that one certainly caught my eye as extra unique. It appears to be copper and turquoise or something close to that.
Yes, I know which one, It also has the fiber optic lighting in it. I have a fireplace hearth coming up soon that I can record. It will be a couple of weeks. When are you doing your project?
Hey I have a quick question. We are using the same system as you but we are about a foot short on the back wall forms. Do you have any idea of what we could use instead of the back wall forms? Thanks
Do you have any extra front edge? you can break it and trim it to match using a saw. Otherwise try getting some metal flashing from your local home depot. Or just draw a line and follow it very carefully. Good luck!
You can seed it into the surface near the end of your pour and polish it back out. Its a similar technique to 'exposed aggregate' finish used on exterior pads. Instead of washing the cream off you'll be polishing it off. Ive done minimal experimenting with it but never had a customer request it.
Good job with the counter, I've watched both videos so far. Any advice I could give, instead of having a store bought prefabricated sink, make a farm sink using the concrete. Drain and all. #(ck) common knowledge
Thanks! Ill take that farmhouse sink suggestion under advisement. They are very popular right now. I am currently editing a bug-hole repair/slurry fill video.
I used quickrete 5000. The shrink reducing admixture you buy should have the dose be specified on the packaging. Dose rates will vary by manufacturer. Thanks for watching!
Thats a tough one to answer.... for a kitchen I prefer PIP, you end up with a seamless, monolithic pour thats easy to clean. for a bathroom vanity or tabletop I think precast is the only way to go.
Grey is good. Its cheaper, easier and takes less time. Plus it looks like concrete which is cool! Earth-tone browns and natural grey are the two most common colors I see.
That sink will never be able to be replaced. NEVER. What happens if there was a flaw in the sink and it must be removed? Oops, can't do it. Or, I reckon you could by angle grinding out the sink and placing a new sink on top of the counter. So I'd recommend buying the highest dollar stainless steel sink that costs a grand or so. Stainless sinks can even get to looking shitty if you don't clean them DAILY.
Interesting installation, especially around the sink. So should the sink need replacing... you are just out of luck? It appears you'd have to knockout the counter top around the sink to remove the sink and install another one.. : (
If you're burnishing, you are way past the point of working it, unless that's the look you want. Also the plastic creates a stain itself. That's why the finished product looks like hell.
You literally double worked yourself about 4 times and made things take twice as long I’ve been in the concrete business for along time if you worked for me I would fire you 💯
DIYConcreteCountertops.. I do Curb and gutter/Sidewalk. I watched you skreet the concrete float then vibrate the sides and then seed the edges and the skreet and float again like why? Why not just leave it high vibrate then skreet, seed, and then float😂
* its 'screed' BTW, 'skreet' is ghetto slang. Couple of reasons I screed multiple times: The low slump of the concrete I use requires it(as you can see there are a lot of voids left after the first strike-off). Secondly; the tight work area presented by pour-in-place tops doesnt allow for much side to side rod movement, multiple passes help. I hold a high standard of flatness for all my countertop work and multiple passes help ensure a perfectly flat top. Lastly; I prefer not to have excess concrete needlessly spilling over the sides and all over the floor when I work inside people's homes. Here's a fun fact: My first concrete job at 16 was on a slip-form gomaco paver pouring drive lanes, curb and gutters. I did it for a few years, working weekends and summers. We did work fast, we worked hard and we laid some nice concrete. It was nice, but it wasnt kitchen nice. But hey, what do I know, maybe your sidewalks and gutters are.... Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately I followed the exact instructions with the help of a friend who does concrete. Worst decision to follow this advice. DO NOT SOAK THE FIBER BEFORE MIXING! Clumps up so bad! The plasticizer I ordered from the link on this video would not dissolve into the pre mixed water! Absolute waste! What is never mentioned is what the concrete looks like underneath the top coat. Be warned!
Very sorry to hear this. How did you mix your concrete? I just poured yesterday with these products following these exact steps, just like I do every time, and had 0 problems.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 I ordered exactly what you had listed. Soaked the fibers and they all just clumped together. Would not separate. I have used fiber before on a large patio pour and "0" problems, but we threw the fibers in dry. Worked perfect. The plasticizer absolutely wouldn't mix with the water. We had brown spots that literally popped right out on the surface after concrete dried. I had to cut away all bad spots, pull any fiber out with my utility knife and then fill with concrete filler patch. In still not done repairing.
@@weldwizzz Call me crazy but balls of fiber and clumps of addmix would right away point me to inadequate mixing. Put simply: the ingredients werent allowed enough time and given enough aggitation to disperse them properly. Think batter lumps in pancakes. What mixing technique did you use?
@@atVVV1 great, you do it and tell me how it turns out. I've worked with fiber before with no problems, but that's because it was mixed in dry. Also, my buddy helped mix the concrete and he had over 10 years working with concrete. So, again... Do it yourself and then let me know.
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You are the most ridiculously brilliant teacher on this subject! What a marvelous educator you are. I learned so much. Thank you kind sir for making this video!! :-)
I have watched video after video about doing pour in place concrete counter tops and this has been an excellent tutorial. So many of the other videos glaze over the problems you will run into when pouring in place, leaving you in a panic while you are working with wet concrete. I appreciate that you show what happens when you vibrate and how important it is to go back in and fix those low spots.
Thank you so much! Im glad that this video has helped you along on your projects! It does take a lot of effort to film and edit a project, especially in a situation like this where you're doing a real job! (It makes a second or third take hard😲) Thanks for recognizing that. Good luck with your pour!!
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 Also I saw some poured concrete sinks on your preview video and I am hoping that you will do a video on them in the future. Other companies just ask you to buy their custom sink form, but the price of the form takes away any savings you would have making your own sink.
here is a video on making a sink mold: th-cam.com/video/xqVg1UXddhk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I think people can be so critical of youtube video without understanding the effort it takes to make a video to help others. You obviously had another person around who was helping your film the whole time and I am thankful to that person as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and giving me the confidence to do this at my home.
Definitely one of the best videos on TH-cam, on this topic. Thanks
Thank you SO MUCH! I've watched A LOT of videos on this subject and your two are the absolute BEST. You seem like a really nice person too. Thanks again! 😊👍🤗👀💥
the best, most practical video I've watched! Great job!
HOW EXCITING!!! POUR DAY!
I am a simple home owner. I am remodeling my house from top to bottom. My wife and I are turning two bedrooms into a big master, soon we will be pouring in place the vanity counter top.
Sounds ambitious! Good for you, have fun!!
Man, I really wanted to see that kitchen all finished! My husband and I have done concrete counter tops, but we are going to do them over in the kitchen because I feel like they are too thick and look funny, among other reasons (if round 2 comes out good, then great, we're done...if not, then we'll go for round 3...lol). Thank you for showing a cast in place where there is a wall on the backside (I swear NO ONE who did a DIY video would do one with a wall, always an island!), and showing how to screed in that situation (that was basically how I did it, but wasn't sure if I was doing it correctly, so thanks!). At this point, I think we are going to go ahead and just do them outside, though (now that we actually have counter tops...we were using plywood before the concrete tops we did so were kind of desperate lol). Either way, I have learned a few things from your vid. Thank you!!!
How thick did you make them? Im about to pour and was also concerned with a blocky look, so i made my edge forms 1 7/8" thick
Totally appreciate you and the time made on the videos. May God bless you sir with more wisdom and strategies for future business and videos! May your hard work return to you 10 fold!
Thank you so much!
great job on the video
Great video. I found it super explained. Thank you for taking the time to do this
You are amazing at what you do and how you teach it.
'We've got the bearings oiled up and ready to go'.
Freakin legendary.
Great video.
Thanks
good stuff, you have almost convinced me to incorp this in my kit reno.
Thanks!
meticulously well done sir, thanks for taking the time and share with us.
Great vid. You should put the viber last. This way it won't stick to the wall or bottom. Cheers!
Did you use a regular sink and concrete it into place or an under mounted sink and just drop it in like a normal sink? Idk if theres a difference there. Also will you not be able to change the sink ever?
I just poured my 4x8 island top, but I didn’t pour in place. Was to worried I couldn’t finish the top smooth enough so I poured it in a form using melamine. I only made it 1 1/2 thick with alot of rebar. Little worried about the transferring to place it. It might crack due to the stress of lifting it.
Can't believe he added potato salad to the cement mixture!
you were watching very closely
Great! I learned a lot. Thanks.
Nice result buddy love it
brilliant video @DIYConcreteCountertops I'm looking to do something similar only for a hearth .... 4 x 0.6 x 0.5m hearth lol.
it's backed to the wall.. reckon I'll try a couple of trials first as I've not a notion what I'm doing... all I know is I'd love a clean finish .
Excellent, informative video. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback!
Savin the cream. Love it! Great video, very helpful to truly see the process.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you ..for sharing this video
Thanks you for watching it! And for commenting!
Thanks for this very informative video. Could you please do a video addressing the difference between this cure in place method vs the cure in a form and then move it in place method? The latter doesn't seem to need as much floating and troweling? Thanks. You just gained a subscriber.
You can refinish the countertop, it can outlast all the other components including the sink which has been unfortunately trapped.
Extremely well done series. THANK YOU. I have a cabin that we close down in the winter in the Northwest. If all your steps are followed is there more risk of cracking down the road etc?
Cracking shouldn't really be a concern if the steps are followed. If there is cracking down the road the mesh and the fiber will work to keep them from separating. Any cracks should remain 'hairline' and nearly undetectable, that is if there are even any at all.
Great video!
Can I ask, do the PVA fibers show through if you were to sand down to the aggregate? Some people say don't use fibers in a cast in place situation, only in the second half of a precast mould. Thanks!
If that were the case you capfuls use it in the middle pour of the cast in place, vibrate and then finish. That would put it in relatively the same locationthe same
Hello, Love this video. Do you think I can do this as a 3/4" thick pour over a tile coutertop? Thanks
I poured 3/4 over tile.... its working, Did not completely stick to the tile. This is the best concrete counter video! I follow all your techniques.
Thank you so much for the two videos on setting up this mold and all the tips and tricks on pouring. Such great info as I embark on doing this myself. Question though, what is the yellow item that it looks like you have pressed into the front of the Zmold?
Those are form liners. It gives the front a 'live edge'.
Yes, they are form liners, also available through zcounterforms. They give the concrete edge an accent of your choosing, stone, chiseled, etc. There are a lot of pictures available on google. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos! You're very good at what you do! I'm going to try this with house i bought to flip. I can't find small hand tampers, though. Any links for those? Thanks!
No, I searched amazon without luck. They are at whitecap. Maybe Home depot? Thanks for the positive feedback
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 How did you make your hand tampers?
Did you stain them? I am wanting to do a top hat has an almost carrera marble look. Solid work man! Your attention to detail is second to none!
Yes they were stained. There are some cool stain techniques out there and some much better technicians than me. Thats why Ive kind of shied away from stain videos.
I wonder if you could do a video on the z form countertops live edge silicone forms? I like the heavy chiseled slate one, but am afraid of being my own beta tester and would love to see it being done. However, the z form folks don't have a video for it.
I might have enough footage to cobble a small how-to video together. They were used in this video.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 apologies. I watched the whole thing and must have missed them. They're called heavy chiseled slate on the z form website. I'm doing my forms and wire mesh as we speak. :)
Great video. I am just getting ready to make my island countertop. I will pour the concrete on a mold and flip it after. I noticed that you did not add Raw Portland cement into this mix. Is this because they are pour in place countertops? Are the ratios of the addmixes for a mold countertop the same as the ones you specify in this video? Do you have a link of the shrink reducing addmixure? Thanks for sharing your knowledge it is of great help!
I didnt add it in here simply bc I knew the job would perform fine without it (quality cabinets, no large spans, not transporting, etc). Adding it will help with a few things: it will aid in finishing by adding 'cream'. It can help enhance stain colors. It can add strength, although the 5000 mix is already sufficient without it. I dont have a link for the SRA, I buy it locally. Thanks for watching!
What type of concrete mux is preferred for an outdoor kitchen. The Quickrete product is in very limited supply in the Boise, ID area at this time.
Any reason why you couldn't strap a vibrating thing to the screed bar? Seems the back form edge gives you little space to shift back and forth. Also could you apply vibration against the bottom of the cement board to level?
Best ever seen
Very Very great video. I lean a lot. Would you Please give me the name and amount what you used with each 80 lbs concrete. Thank you !
I use a shrink reducer, water reducer and an acrylic fortifier. The dose rates will be manufacturer specific. Thanks for watching
LOOKS AWESOME 👍
If my countertop is >10 feet long, how would you suggest joining the melamine to not leave a seam on the counter where the boards come together?
Your videos are very informative, you mention you make your own tampers, I want to weld some for myself, what are your materials, thanks
Expanded mesh and round rod. bend, cut and tack! thanks
Nice video. What about fiber - what kind of fiber have you used? Have it shown up on the surface?
I linked to it in the description. It typically wont show up if you dont overdose it. Another option is to use it on the lower fill material and then cut it out of the top, face coat. It helps to not over-trowel the mix, a hard burnish will expose it. If some does show up it can be singed off with a propane torch. Just be sure to move quickly as the torch can pop the concrete.
What if the owner wants or needs to replace the sink? It seems you have sealed it in there.
This is the Zform recommended method. Ive never had anyone need or request a sink replacement. That said I suppose that it has probably happened somewhere at sometime to someone.
So do the forms break off you gotta cut them off how’s all that go???
They snap off. There is a scored edge that easily snaps off after the pour is completed and the concrete has dried.
Do you have a list of supplies that you use?
Do you use a plasticizer? If so what do you recommend? Thank you in advance
Wear a respirator when working around dry concrete just to be safe. My neighbor’s brother died of lung cancer. Good ole Mormon boy so he didn’t smoke, but worked with concrete.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the tip!
Question, do you have to caulk or silicone the forms?
Thought him amateur, but…
dude is a professor.
Is there a limit how how big of an area to do with pour in place counters? The whole space is about 8 cubic feet and we want to make sure we minimize cracking. We were originally planning to pour in molds and transfer, but I think that will get to heavy.
There are a lot of variables to your question. I have poured large 40 inch wide by 20 foot long outdoor top at 2" thick using a counter-specific mix without any cracking. So a fairly large piece can be poured with minimal cracking as long as you follow proper procedure. Use a good quality mix, reinforce with fiber/remesh/chemicals as needed and ensure the top is adequately supported from underneath. Thanks for watching!!
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 did you just use your existing counters? If so, did you have to reinforce? Got maple Formica stuff from early 80's, cabinets prolly built better then? Durarock seems excessive, and too much work, to redo the counters I am already redoing. Hummmm..
A true craftsman.
Thanks Jim!
I watched all this to see how to remove the forms lol. Can you please tell me how you get the forms out? Thanks.
They just snap off of the front. Lean down on the plastic with your body weight. The rear forms get covered by your backsplash. If that doesnt answer your question let me know what in particular youre wondering about.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 mate how do you get the form out from underneath?
@@damon79 The hardieboard stays. The rear form gets covered by backsplash. The front 'zform' snaps off on the scored corner. A very small amount of the 'zform' will remain on the underside. It is neither visible nor intrusive.
you are good
Could you compare the texture of your mix with that of other people's mix? Why so thick? Why not use a pancake batter consistency without aggregate? Which is better? Why? Thank you!
This video series is aimed at the DIYer who doesnt want to opt for the specialized mixes. I used an off-the-shelf mix from the local home supply store and showed how to modify it to be strong enough for the average top.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 thank you!
Great videos! I am pouring my entire kitchen counters. The time between when I put the mix, quikcrete countertop mix, in my sample forms and when it’s time to hard trowel is about 7 hours!!! So long. I mixed everything inside the house at 65 degrees. Should it be warmer? I end up doing the hard troweling at night, kind of frustrating.
7 hours is a long time (I have a simple pro tip for speeding dry times. Ill leave it for you at the end of this comment).
As far as your extended dry time It could be due to a few things: first and most obvious, is your mix too wet? Is there excessive 'bleed water' (visible, pooling water on top of the placed concrete)? Keep your mix as dry as you can without making it unworkable.
Next, are you using a water reducer? a water reducer will help with dry times AND strength (remember, ALL water has to pass through the top of the pour, not like a driveway or sidewalk where the dirt underneath helps wick it away).
Lastly, there are addmixtures known as 'accelerators' that will chemically reduce dry times, though they may not be the best option here.
As far as an easy solution for you; try experimenting with using luke warm (90F-120F) water when mixing. Concrete dry times can be easily manipulated using hot or cold water when batching. Just be careful not to go too extreme (170Fish I think??) as aggregate expansion, thermal shock etc can cause major problems. A simple box fan blowing over the pieces will help also.
Sorry, that was long winded
I did use less water on the last section and it dried in 8 hours and I used 70 degree water. I’ll try a tad less water and 90 degree water.
I also find I don’t have to mess with it that much, damping, vibrating, and floating in the beginning then letting it get rid of water for the next hours.
I hope that reducing the water helps. BTW, Are you using a bagged mix from one of the countertop specialists? Or from the local home improvement store?
Quikcrete countertop mix.
Have you ever made light weight concrete using Portland Cement with perlite and vermiculite as the aggregate? I have made Hypertufa planters with such a mix.
Im familiar with the concept but have never poured with DIY lightweight. From what I understand the strength requirements arent high enough for tops. Have you used the mix for any counter or table tops?
No I haven’t. I was just wondering if you had. Do you suppose that adding fibers would help strengthen it?
It might help, but to what extent Im unsure. Generally when lightweight is a requirement I hear of GFRC being used as the solution. It can be poured very thin without compromising strength.
How's that potato salad additive work??
Did you use the Vons brand, or the Albertson's? Maybe Raplph's?
Will's from costco, the only way to go....😜
Hi! Thanks so much for your videos! I just poured my first and they turned out great! However, I can see clumps of the PVA fibers in the finished concrete. I would like to use a wet grinder/polisher with diamond pads to make the top smoother, but, I'm afraid it will expose more of the fibers and, possibly, reveal little fuzzy spots on the surface. Any suggestions? Have a great day!
If I have a fiber hair sticking out of the surface I will take a propane torch and sweep over the area using a very quick motion. This will singe the fibers back to the surface. Keep the flame moving! If the flame stays in 1 spot it can cause severe damage (the moisture and aggregates will expand at different rates and blow pieces of the surface off at high speeds). Be sure to keep that flame moving.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 Ok, thanks again for your informative videos!! Very well done!
Thanks for the video. What type of Quikcrete did you use?
quickrete or sakrete 5k or 5000plus I believe they call it. Thanks!
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 thanks for responding. Take care
Hold one here, so what you're saying is you don't just wave the screed over the form and voila perfectly finished and beautiful finish?
This looks like real work.
Yay for little home concrete mixers that will run on sunlight!
Not so yay for getting that close to a cloud of cement powder without a dust mask. Replacement lungs aren't easy to get!
I live in a split level house. The kitchen is on the second floor. Do I have to worry about any weight issues?
@mike toni lol. Thanks.
My ten foot countertop, 1-1/2" thick weighed about 300 lbs.
Have you used or are you familiar with countertop specific concrete ? Does it need any add mixtures ?
Typically the manufacturer will specify that. It varies from product to product. The best advise I can offer is choose a brand and they'll have a complete system. Thanks for watching.
Desperate to see you do a staining video. Easpeciall your brown and turquoise example!
Do you know the time stamp of the top you're referring to?
Its at 14:20 of your "How to mix, pour and..." video But that picture is used in several of your montages. It's a bathroom sink with a square ramped basin. I believe it's the one you made in the other video. I love all of your staining actually and would love to see how you do all of your stains but that one certainly caught my eye as extra unique. It appears to be copper and turquoise or something close to that.
Yes, I know which one, It also has the fiber optic lighting in it. I have a fireplace hearth coming up soon that I can record. It will be a couple of weeks. When are you doing your project?
No certain date. I can definately wait for your video!
Hey I have a quick question. We are using the same system as you but we are about a foot short on the back wall forms. Do you have any idea of what we could use instead of the back wall forms? Thanks
Do you have any extra front edge? you can break it and trim it to match using a saw. Otherwise try getting some metal flashing from your local home depot. Or just draw a line and follow it very carefully. Good luck!
Can you add glass to a pour in place counter and still polish it to be seen.
You can seed it into the surface near the end of your pour and polish it back out. Its a similar technique to 'exposed aggregate' finish used on exterior pads. Instead of washing the cream off you'll be polishing it off. Ive done minimal experimenting with it but never had a customer request it.
What cement to sand to coarse aggregate ratio did you have in the mix?
I want to put glass in it when do you add. Can you use an undercount sink.
fiberglass or decorative glass? This is an undermount sink in this video
What is the shrink reducer additive? I cant find that. Cou look d it be called something else?
I bought this through Euclid concrete chemicals. You could check with a few local concrete suppliers.
Did you add color to make the concrete turn brown?
Stained after the cure
How do you make your own tamper?
Expanded mesh and some round bar
Good job with the counter, I've watched both videos so far.
Any advice I could give, instead of having a store bought prefabricated sink, make a farm sink using the concrete. Drain and all.
#(ck) common knowledge
Thanks! Ill take that farmhouse sink suggestion under advisement. They are very popular right now. I am currently editing a bug-hole repair/slurry fill video.
What type of concrete?
Anything wrong with using 1/4 inch plywood instead of hardboard?
plywood will absorb water and expand. It will eventually harbor mold whereas hardieboard will not.
Would’ve been nice if you showed how to remove the plastic edges in the video kind of skipped over that part
You just pop them off. They are designed to break away once concrete is cured.
Thanks Wes. They are very straight forward, you cant mess it up
Is this Borats house?
What type and strength concrete did you use and how much shrink reducing add mixture for the 80 lbs?
I used quickrete 5000. The shrink reducing admixture you buy should have the dose be specified on the packaging. Dose rates will vary by manufacturer. Thanks for watching!
Do you prefer doing them on-site or off-site
Off-site is always nice BC they arent clogging up my workshop.... It always nice to work from home though.... Hmmmm maybe its a toss up🤔
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 what I actually meant was pour in place, or Upside Down cast
Thats a tough one to answer.... for a kitchen I prefer PIP, you end up with a seamless, monolithic pour thats easy to clean. for a bathroom vanity or tabletop I think precast is the only way to go.
I would think PIP means having your kitchen torn apart for much longer than inverted cast. Save money on alimony.
what kind of concrete are you using?
quickrete 5k
Pretty nice....when it was grey.. :/
Grey is good. Its cheaper, easier and takes less time. Plus it looks like concrete which is cool! Earth-tone browns and natural grey are the two most common colors I see.
That sink will never be able to be replaced. NEVER. What happens if there was a flaw in the sink and it must be removed? Oops, can't do it. Or, I reckon you could by angle grinding out the sink and placing a new sink on top of the counter. So I'd recommend buying the highest dollar stainless steel sink that costs a grand or so. Stainless sinks can even get to looking shitty if you don't clean them DAILY.
No wire mesh ?
th-cam.com/video/v3jbCpY8RIQ/w-d-xo.html
Interesting installation, especially around the sink. So should the sink need replacing... you are just out of luck? It appears you'd have to knockout the counter top around the sink to remove the sink and install another one.. : (
Sink can be removed from the bottom. Cut the durock back and the sink will drop out, add the new sink in and support from underneath. Thanks!!
How'd you get it the brown color
acid stain, there are many available colors to choose from
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 thank you do you have a name of the brand or a link to it online
Direct colors makes a good product.
what about adding color to the mix?
yes, its possible. Both Powder color and Liquid color should be dissolved into your water before its added to the dry mix.
If you're burnishing, you are way past the point of working it, unless that's the look you want. Also the plastic creates a stain itself. That's why the finished product looks like hell.
You literally double worked yourself about 4 times and made things take twice as long I’ve been in the concrete business for along time if you worked for me I would fire you 💯
How do you 'double work 4 times"???
What kind of concrete work do you do?
Thats what I figured.....
DIYConcreteCountertops.. I do Curb and gutter/Sidewalk. I watched you skreet the concrete float then vibrate the sides and then seed the edges and the skreet and float again like why? Why not just leave it high vibrate then skreet, seed, and then float😂
* its 'screed' BTW, 'skreet' is ghetto slang.
Couple of reasons I screed multiple times: The low slump of the concrete I use requires it(as you can see there are a lot of voids left after the first strike-off). Secondly; the tight work area presented by pour-in-place tops doesnt allow for much side to side rod movement, multiple passes help. I hold a high standard of flatness for all my countertop work and multiple passes help ensure a perfectly flat top. Lastly; I prefer not to have excess concrete needlessly spilling over the sides and all over the floor when I work inside people's homes.
Here's a fun fact: My first concrete job at 16 was on a slip-form gomaco paver pouring drive lanes, curb and gutters. I did it for a few years, working weekends and summers. We did work fast, we worked hard and we laid some nice concrete. It was nice, but it wasnt kitchen nice. But hey, what do I know, maybe your sidewalks and gutters are....
Thanks for watching!
Why not teach someone the way You want it done instead of just firing him!?? Duh...
What is that horrible rusty color it at the end ? You completely mess it up dud.
Yeh, when its not a job you are doing for yourself then you are at the mercy of what the customer wants.
re-do...now use epoxy system
Unfortunately I followed the exact instructions with the help of a friend who does concrete. Worst decision to follow this advice. DO NOT SOAK THE FIBER BEFORE MIXING! Clumps up so bad! The plasticizer I ordered from the link on this video would not dissolve into the pre mixed water! Absolute waste! What is never mentioned is what the concrete looks like underneath the top coat. Be warned!
Very sorry to hear this. How did you mix your concrete?
I just poured yesterday with these products following these exact steps, just like I do every time, and had 0 problems.
@@diyconcretecountertops1635 I ordered exactly what you had listed. Soaked the fibers and they all just clumped together. Would not separate. I have used fiber before on a large patio pour and "0" problems, but we threw the fibers in dry. Worked perfect.
The plasticizer absolutely wouldn't mix with the water. We had brown spots that literally popped right out on the surface after concrete dried. I had to cut away all bad spots, pull any fiber out with my utility knife and then fill with concrete filler patch. In still not done repairing.
@@weldwizzz Call me crazy but balls of fiber and clumps of addmix would right away point me to inadequate mixing. Put simply: the ingredients werent allowed enough time and given enough aggitation to disperse them properly. Think batter lumps in pancakes. What mixing technique did you use?
@@atVVV1 great, you do it and tell me how it turns out. I've worked with fiber before with no problems, but that's because it was mixed in dry. Also, my buddy helped mix the concrete and he had over 10 years working with concrete. So, again... Do it yourself and then let me know.
So much back ground noise I had to stop watching your video......
What kind of concrete did you use?