It looks very promising. I was thinking about trying portland cement for the first inch, to really capture the logo details. Then the rest with regular quick set. Also, after using a hammer to tap out the air pocket, use a orbital sander to vibrate the mix into place. I'm looking forward to part 2.
Is it possible that the mold wasnt leveled? Maybe the water was going to one side leaving the other side too dry. Just a thought. Thanks for showing the happy little accidents as well.
Great video as always. I think it would have been interesting to have measured how much water you added versus what you would have naturally added if you had mixed the concrete.
Can I suggest using your palm sander to help vibrate the dry, or wet concrete down. I used to encase flat headstone markers with a 6" perimeter and the sander seemed to work great.
Nicely done Michael even if it was somewhat of a failed attempt. I am certain that you will figure it out. A finer sand mix with no aggregate would probably work out better. Also, don't be afraid to use lots & lots of water! 👍👍
Great as always! I love the videos, doing stuff that we would like to do and showing us what is working and not. Open minded and ready to try! I love that spirit and energy. You were my 2023 find and my enjoyment is always fulfilled after watching your videos!
Thank you Michael, another great video. I am biting my lip for the part 2 of this video. I have an table that is sitting on my front porch as a catch all. I am thinking of making a pallet wood cabinate but lets go one step further and put a concrete counter top on it. .
Having just finished a dry pour in place countertop, here’s what I’ll tell you. Vibrate the crap out of the dry pour to remove any air spaces. Replace the last quarter or so of your countertop depth with mortar to get a nice smooth finish. Otherwise you run the risk of seeing a lot of aggregate on the top. Otherwise, follow the steps in any of Michael’s other dry pour videos and you’ll be good to go
Your original counter top you could stand on in an hour. I can't believe its been 5 years and 5million views on that first one. Congratulations for your success. Also, I love the shed.
Hey Michael, can you add a tiny bit of dish soap to the initial spray of water to break down the surface tension of the water? Would that hurt or help?
I would definitely like to see more experiments! What if you mix up the dry pour in a bucket first like wet pour just to make it more consistent. Like sifting flour. Or also what if you put the flow control in the dry pour mix.. mix it and then pour. Definitely needs more water
Like your idea on coloring mortar with paint I’ve been making molds with concrete and using a leaf from an elephant ear plant and then using the concrete dye anyway my question is what did you use for your lettering on the shamrock that you made
Michael, new episode idea. Perhaps you can do some experiments on DIY "Air-Crete"? I have been thinking about making concrete above ground garden planters, but wood doesn't last, and concrete doesn't have to be so heavy-duty. Making interlocking air-crete panels sounds perfect, and since it is 50% air, they are lightweight and cost effective.
I must have missed the episode where you showed how you do your design inlays. What product are you using now to put those black letters down before you pour?
Hey Michael, love the channel. Your creativity and passion are infectious. I am a concrete noob-----and I notice that sometimes you use Morter, sometimes Concrete, and yet others Cement. Please make a video that reviews the strengths, weaknesses, and uses for all the types. Like, why use Morter for making some projects---and concrete for others? Thanks! Keep up the great work.
i watch your vids always , i am an inventor and was going to design a shed that i can easily build without standard processes but i love your shed....wish i had one for the right price ...friends and family pricing ..lol
I'm the kid in the back of the class waving his hand going ooh Ooh ! I have a question!!! ...can we do this on an actual counter top using the reverse method , leaving the bottom of the mold in place and just removing the sides ? And the front lip? Catch my drift? 😊
Try using sand mix, and use a sawzall with no blade to vibrate the concrete better before wetting it down. I'm wondering if you can use the flow control as a water reducer to see if the mix will saturate more evenly. You would have to pre mix it into the dry mix though which is going to make a ton of dust.
I think it turned out pretty good as is. Maybe another fill and tapping the edges with the water may have done something? You can just say that it is a 'live edge' concrete top 😁
PAINT ROLLER , after screeding, like they do in Cajun Country Livin. For a super smooth surface. Maybe then you could build it in place on top of the counter? They seem to be the best at dry pour. ❤ Your videos.
I used dry pour in my yard for a specific reason, sloped grade and it was just too hard to pour wet. It worked out ok f I r 2cyears now. But I put bricks onto it using wet mortar. But I have no problem saying wet pour is way better than dry in most cases. Fun video either way.
Is it possible the frame might not have been level, and that more water pooled on one side rather than the other (why one side was more set and the other more crumbly)? Thanks as always for sharing the process!
I just wonder how it will work because there is no ground to get moisture from and where extra water would be able to go to. You would have to be exact on the mount of water. I hope you can prefect it were it would be practical for a DIYer to do it.
Take a 2" form, and then attach 4" sidewalls to it, waterproof, fill to 2" with concrete, and then fill the whole 4" bathtub with water. No mixing, just formwork. The only reason dry mix concrete works at all is rain/dew/humidity & soil moisture adsorbing in over months, and you don't really have much of that inside your shed.
Another channel did a 6 month cure test ... outdoors, in rain and snow. So it had the dry pour misting, 3 soaks and then 6 months of rain and snow melt to help the dry pour concrete cure. Right beside it on the same day as the dry pour, he properly mixed and poured an identical size small slab. At the end of 6 months he cut them and then tested them for strength. The dry pour, with every reality advantage you can give it was less than 20% as strong as properly mixed. Dry pour can at best come up to 40% as strong as properly mixed. That's just a fact of concrete.
*SUGGESTIONS:* 1) In order to get the fine detail around decals, and hard strong edges....before you pour in the concrete...pour in a thin layer of pure Portland first. The Portland will get deep into those cracks and edges, and will give you a better defined result. 2) DON'T VIBRATE TOO MUCH! Unlike wet pour where you want to drive down the agregate & bring up the fine slurry for definition...REFRAIN from doing this because you will only be driving stones into the corners (which will crumble as seen) and you will lose strength on the one 'bottom' (actually the top) where you need it most. *Hope this helps.*
Could you have, when you put in the metal reinforcement, watered the part that was in there, then laid more and watered again? Or would that have caused lamination?
i think you might need to put some water in the mold before poring the mix in so that it had something to soak up from the bottom like it does when doing a dry poor in the dirt.
Wondered if you had misted and rewet after removing mold but before pulling the edges apart by hand the countertop might have ended up with an interesting “live edge”
Hey Michael! ❤ Yeah gravity pulled the water to one side it seems. Maybe turn it around so gravity works on the other side every time you water. I don't know, I'm talking out of my a$$ 😅
10:43 I think in this scenario I would think about wetting the box before pouring in the mix and perhaps even wetting the edges about the time you put in the wire to insure the edges get plenty of water. I see a lot of potential.
Dry pour cement into a hole, put a little water on top, that contains a fence post and it will work. Moisture from the ground, air, make the cement cure the rest of the way. In a workshop? Not enough water. The only way I see this working is putting it somewhere, where once the top layer cures you can really flood it with a lot of additional moisture. If the form could be created with something that allowed moisture to get through, that would help also. But would that form stick to the concrete? Hold form?
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Love the fact that you show projects that don't work out and use that as a teaching moment to show what to try different next time.
Try a sand mix with no aggregate. Love this channel!
Always love to see masonry . My father started out as a mason and has done beautiful work. Especially in exposed aggregate. Your work warms my heart.
It looks very promising. I was thinking about trying portland cement for the first inch, to really capture the logo details. Then the rest with regular quick set. Also, after using a hammer to tap out the air pocket, use a orbital sander to vibrate the mix into place. I'm looking forward to part 2.
That barn, definitely makes me envious. Hope you master this countertop dry pour so I can duplicate one day 🤓
Excellent video and experiment. Lots learned here. Looking forward to round 2!👏
Is it possible that the mold wasnt leveled? Maybe the water was going to one side leaving the other side too dry. Just a thought. Thanks for showing the happy little accidents as well.
Or maybe it possible it failed because dry pour is poo poo. There is a reason there are no dry pour instructions on the bag.
Great video as always. I think it would have been interesting to have measured how much water you added versus what you would have naturally added if you had mixed the concrete.
Can I suggest using your palm sander to help vibrate the dry, or wet concrete down. I used to encase flat headstone markers with a 6" perimeter and the sander seemed to work great.
I swear every time I wear my Michael Builds shirt I wake up the next day to an new video.
Please wear it more often!
Nicely done Michael even if it was somewhat of a failed attempt. I am certain that you will figure it out. A finer sand mix with no aggregate would probably work out better. Also, don't be afraid to use lots & lots of water! 👍👍
Great as always! I love the videos, doing stuff that we would like to do and showing us what is working and not. Open minded and ready to try! I love that spirit and energy. You were my 2023 find and my enjoyment is always fulfilled after watching your videos!
This would be a good outdoor workbench counter to for my kids. Looking forward to part two.
Until it all crumbled.
You could always do what Modustrial Maker does and start with a spray coat of concrete before adding then adding the dry pour.
That was interesting. I didn't even think it would turn out quite as well as it did!
Thank you Michael, another great video. I am biting my lip for the part 2 of this video. I have an table that is sitting on my front porch as a catch all. I am thinking of making a pallet wood cabinate but lets go one step further and put a concrete counter top on it. .
Having just finished a dry pour in place countertop, here’s what I’ll tell you. Vibrate the crap out of the dry pour to remove any air spaces. Replace the last quarter or so of your countertop depth with mortar to get a nice smooth finish. Otherwise you run the risk of seeing a lot of aggregate on the top. Otherwise, follow the steps in any of Michael’s other dry pour videos and you’ll be good to go
Was thinking the mortar would make for a nice finish. How is it holding up? Are you happy with all of the edges?
@@tilleryinnovations592 edges still look good and it’s holding up great considering it’s a garage work table that is used daily
@Beezerfish79 great to hear. Last question. Did you mist first and then drench?
@@tilleryinnovations592 yes. Mist first and then flood every hour thereafter
Awesome shoutout to Yesi! She’s great!
CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A 5 OR 10 GALLON CONCRETE PLANTER BOX, SQUARE THAT ACTUALLY LOOKS GOOD AND FUNCTIONAL?
Great Video, looking forward to see the next one. Think I'm going to try it myself this next week.
Your original counter top you could stand on in an hour. I can't believe its been 5 years and 5million views on that first one. Congratulations for your success. Also, I love the shed.
Wow! Thanks for trying! I cannot wait for your next video! Are your using the same stuff as before? Need different concrete? Cannot wait!
I love your videos, I am always interested in your content your experiment saved me so much time love watching, congratulations...
What a great idea! I hope you can make it work because that would make concrete countertops viable for a whole lot more people.🤗❤️🐝
I had to laugh when you said spring is officially here I was like like wait a couple days lol😅
Hi Michael i love your content. I saw your video on dying concrete with paint, have you ever tried to sye it with like clothing dye.
Great experiment!!!!
Hey Michael, can you add a tiny bit of dish soap to the initial spray of water to break down the surface tension of the water? Would that hurt or help?
Just watched this & became a new subscriber! I hope you put up how your 2nd attempt doing it with more water works out soon!
Looking forward to part 2 for sure!
I want to be inspired too! I love Weaver Barns. I just got to first get a house.
I want to see a dry pour with that rapidset stuff you use.
I would definitely like to see more experiments! What if you mix up the dry pour in a bucket first like wet pour just to make it more consistent. Like sifting flour. Or also what if you put the flow control in the dry pour mix.. mix it and then pour. Definitely needs more water
Or fiber support mixed in.. I definitely think it’s just a matter of dialing in the procedure
Michael you make some cool things but best of all you make me believe i can do it too.. ANY IDEAS for a Pizza Oven with a little extra
Great video! I think it was sloped and the lower part got lots of water, maybe either flood it or level it perfectly?
Like your idea on coloring mortar with paint I’ve been making molds with concrete and using a leaf from an elephant ear plant and then using the concrete dye anyway my question is what did you use for your lettering on the shamrock that you made
Michael, new episode idea. Perhaps you can do some experiments on DIY "Air-Crete"? I have been thinking about making concrete above ground garden planters, but wood doesn't last, and concrete doesn't have to be so heavy-duty. Making interlocking air-crete panels sounds perfect, and since it is 50% air, they are lightweight and cost effective.
I must have missed the episode where you showed how you do your design inlays. What product are you using now to put those black letters down before you pour?
he's got a laser cutter so he can cut designs out of foam panels that have adhesive backs.
interesting project
Michael, try using a sander to vibrate the form. It will move the rough aggregate up from the bottom and better settle (make denser) the concrete mix.
i like the way you think about concrete lol
Hey Michael, love the channel. Your creativity and passion are infectious. I am a concrete noob-----and I notice that sometimes you use Morter, sometimes Concrete, and yet others Cement. Please make a video that reviews the strengths, weaknesses, and uses for all the types. Like, why use Morter for making some projects---and concrete for others? Thanks! Keep up the great work.
i watch your vids always , i am an inventor and was going to design a shed that i can easily build without standard processes but i love your shed....wish i had one for the right price ...friends and family pricing ..lol
Do you think tapping, then adding water before putting the metal reinforcement in and continuing from that point might work better?
Did you make sure the mold was level?
I'm the kid in the back of the class waving his hand going ooh Ooh ! I have a question!!! ...can we do this on an actual counter top using the reverse method , leaving the bottom of the mold in place and just removing the sides ? And the front lip? Catch my drift? 😊
What do you use for the designs? I saw cricut transfer tape for the knock on wood vinyl but not sure if that is you or her.
Try using sand mix, and use a sawzall with no blade to vibrate the concrete better before wetting it down. I'm wondering if you can use the flow control as a water reducer to see if the mix will saturate more evenly. You would have to pre mix it into the dry mix though which is going to make a ton of dust.
I think it turned out pretty good as is. Maybe another fill and tapping the edges with the water may have done something? You can just say that it is a 'live edge' concrete top 😁
PAINT ROLLER , after screeding, like they do in Cajun Country Livin. For a super smooth surface. Maybe then you could build it in place on top of the counter? They seem to be the best at dry pour.
❤ Your videos.
I wonder if you could do the same with a sand cement mix, reinforced with some type of mesh?
Put it back in the mold and use epoxy to square it off. It would look great then.
Do you think that the wood frame sagged and the water pooled to the side making the edges less saturated over the week long cure?
Doing this I would be tempted to try using thick perspex for the mould, then you could see where the underside is set or not?
I used dry pour in my yard for a specific reason, sloped grade and it was just too hard to pour wet. It worked out ok f I r 2cyears now. But I put bricks onto it using wet mortar. But I have no problem saying wet pour is way better than dry in most cases. Fun video either way.
How do you know when you have used enough water?
We want to see more of the concrete curb casting lol.
The form wasnt level while the concrete dried, thats why one side is mint and the other side looks like it never got wet.
Is it possible the frame might not have been level, and that more water pooled on one side rather than the other (why one side was more set and the other more crumbly)? Thanks as always for sharing the process!
I just wonder how it will work because there is no ground to get moisture from and where extra water would be able to go to. You would have to be exact on the mount of water. I hope you can prefect it were it would be practical for a DIYer to do it.
Give it another try and dont be afraid to over water. I would do 3 heavy waterings. Rather over water than under water IMO.
Take a 2" form, and then attach 4" sidewalls to it, waterproof, fill to 2" with concrete, and then fill the whole 4" bathtub with water. No mixing, just formwork. The only reason dry mix concrete works at all is rain/dew/humidity & soil moisture adsorbing in over months, and you don't really have much of that inside your shed.
Nice... Looks like the piece may not have been level causing all the water to run to that one side.
I may have missed something but what do you use to make the inbedded designs
Another channel did a 6 month cure test ... outdoors, in rain and snow. So it had the dry pour misting, 3 soaks and then 6 months of rain and snow melt to help the dry pour concrete cure.
Right beside it on the same day as the dry pour, he properly mixed and poured an identical size small slab.
At the end of 6 months he cut them and then tested them for strength. The dry pour, with every reality advantage you can give it was less than 20% as strong as properly mixed.
Dry pour can at best come up to 40% as strong as properly mixed. That's just a fact of concrete.
I would keep the "failed" slab and fill in the voids with clear epoxy. Could look amazing.
Would it make a big difference if you spray the forms with water before you start the dry pour ?
How many bags does it take to make this? I only see you mixing one or two but does it take more than that for this size?
What so you use for the design??
Throw some epoxy over it and use the crumbled edge as sort of a live edge design. Would look cool.
*SUGGESTIONS:*
1) In order to get the fine detail around decals, and hard strong edges....before you pour in the concrete...pour in a thin layer of pure Portland first. The Portland will get deep into those cracks and edges, and will give you a better defined result.
2) DON'T VIBRATE TOO MUCH! Unlike wet pour where you want to drive down the agregate & bring up the fine slurry for definition...REFRAIN from doing this because you will only be driving stones into the corners (which will crumble as seen) and you will lose strength on the one 'bottom' (actually the top) where you need it most.
*Hope this helps.*
Weep holes blocked off with something water permeable might allow a full flood with no standing water in the mold.
do a few bags at a time, vibrate the dry mix, spray water, do another level, and another until finished, then flood.
Could you have, when you put in the metal reinforcement, watered the part that was in there, then laid more and watered again? Or would that have caused lamination?
How do you make your different mold designs?
I did a dry pour side walk last year. And for some reason the top layer is completely flaking away. Not sure why🤷
Would be interesting to see how it sets by putting in a perspex window.
What did you use to create the design?
You can’t really have too much water in it with a dry pour can you? Anything that sits on top will eventually just evaporate.
i think you might need to put some water in the mold before poring the mix in so that it had something to soak up from the bottom like it does when doing a dry poor in the dirt.
Hi. How do you make the design and from what.
Wondered if you had misted and rewet after removing mold but before pulling the edges apart by hand the countertop might have ended up with an interesting “live edge”
Couos you save that project by watering it some more?
I wonder if using the latex additive for concrete instead of water would make any difference
Hey Michael! ❤ Yeah gravity pulled the water to one side it seems. Maybe turn it around so gravity works on the other side every time you water. I don't know, I'm talking out of my a$$ 😅
Maybe use a taller lip on the edge so you can fill it with more water. And something to shake it awhile to remove air pockets better
practice will make perfect.... carry-on
What does the technique buy you, a wet pour would be just as easy and faster?
is this possible with 100% portland cement or mortar mix?
That would have been beautiful with your rapid set.
10:43 I think in this scenario I would think about wetting the box before pouring in the mix and perhaps even wetting the edges about the time you put in the wire to insure the edges get plenty of water. I see a lot of potential.
I could be that you did not get the dry mix compacted enough.
I am looking forward to you getting this figured out.
Dry pour cement into a hole, put a little water on top, that contains a fence post and it will work. Moisture from the ground, air, make the cement cure the rest of the way. In a workshop? Not enough water. The only way I see this working is putting it somewhere, where once the top layer cures you can really flood it with a lot of additional moisture. If the form could be created with something that allowed moisture to get through, that would help also. But would that form stick to the concrete? Hold form?
I bet running a sander on the edge would do even more
How are you making these silcone logo prints?
6:02 no way you get proper/full hydration of the concrete with a single "flood" in that form. IMO needs higher sides for "ponding."
Can you make a bigger box and put epoxy around the edges?
How do you make the design in the middle??
Ok, waiting for part 2 bc I know you will figure it out!
Keep the mold level so the water hits everywhere evenly