Full synthetic vs 100% synthetic, is there a difference??
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- This video is for educational purposes only and its not intended to persuade anyone towards any particular brand of oil.
Full synthetic motor oil amzn.to/2vvG0u9
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350k miles on Ford and zero wear www.amsoil.com/newsstand/testimonials/articles/pristine-ford-flex-tops-350-000-miles/?zo=5257753
zero wear ? not sure thats even a thing
Yes, you can have zero wear with amsoil only.
@@repairvehicle : you must mean measurable wear
Yes, is there none measurable wear?
Yep, been using Amsoil for over a decade now.
OMG, I have been mislead ALL this time paying good money for Full Synthetic when I thought I was getting 100% Synthetic.
Thank you SO MUCH clearing this up!
Company C is using false advertising IMO. Absolutely criminal. I want group 4 not 3. I'm happy to pay more for it of course. My engine costs many 10's of thousands and consequently I want the best oil for it. That is a real con.
+Martin Lang, what brand of oil are you considering using now? What brand of car do you have?
+Martin Lang, please share my video with others. Thank you for commenting. I like your comments.
repairvehicle I have been using the correct spec of "Havoline": which is a Caltex product. I drive a 2008 Audi Q7, so I will need to read up the details on other brands here in Australia. Penrite is supposed to be a good brand, however Mobil1 is supposed to be the best. Thanks for your tips.
My Audi Q7 has a 4.2 liter twin turbo Diesel "TDi", low sulfur "saps", spec oil. I have used Penrite "Enviro plus" 5W-30, again a low sulfur oil and is a "long drain oil", however I never go over 15,000 klms before an oil change regardless of oil used.
Also my vehicle has been modified so it no longer has DPF's and the EGR is blocked with induction manifold thoughly cleaned.
I use an engine flush 20 minutes before changing oil and use an antiwear additive both of which I buy direct from Cost Effective Maintenance in Brisbane, Queensland Australia. I do not run (waste) 10 liters of oil doing when doing a flush as recommended, due to the cost of oil and because I think it is a waste of oil....even poor quality oil which is not cheap in Aus.
repairvehicle I was going to ask you about the Audi Quattro system...do you know much about it? I was wondering if my anti wear additive would be a good thing or a bad thing in this system. I think it could be bad as it may depend on the oil viscosity to function properly, so if I change this it may damage it....I'm just not sure. I like all the moving parts to wear the least as I want to keep this car for a very long time and look after it the best I can.
+Martin Lang, I get back to with more information tomorrow or Monday.
Syn oils are SAE Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5. Group 3 is about 90% of the market. These oils are 4-5 bucks a quart. They are made from Natural Gas or Dino oil. It is hydrocracked. It has NO SYNTHEIC BASE. Until 1997, when Castol Syntec was developed from Dino oil and was allowed to use the name "Synthetic", all syn oils had a true synthetic base (Group 4). So you are probably buying inferior Group 3 which has no syn base. All the oils are Group 3 except Group 4 oils which are brands Redline, AMSOIL, and Royal Purple. That's why these brands are twice as expensive. If you run a turbo or want your engine to last a long time, get Group 4. What's the biggest difference? Heat resistance! Your turbo bearings and the top piston ring land will know the difference. Group 4 will also result in a cleaner engine. Don't bother calling the oil companies - they won't tell you crap. If you can get the specs, look for the coking temp or the temp where the oil "boils off". Group 4 is higher. So Mobil 1 Fanboys, if you want Group 4, you need to find the Euro-spec Mobil 1. This guy is right on - the words "Synthetic", 100% Synthetic and "Full Synthetic" does not indicate the Group. By the way, Group5 is for Jet engines. Group 3 would evaporate if used in a jet engine.
+Stan Sexton, very good explanation. Thank you for commenting. It would be great if more people would know the difference.
unless they changed recently, Redline is group V, not IV. They are ester based.
Group 4 is also polyol-ester based and so is Aviation Group 5.
Grp IV is Poly-alpha-olefin
Stan Sexton Chevy Van 318,000 miles using conventional oil only and still running strong.
I just wanted to say "Thank you" again for your videos. I just changed to Amsoil and the improvement is absolutely astonishing. The bike runs quieter and shifts much smoother. I cannot believe the improvement. I'll never return to full synthetic. Kudos!!!
Did you purchase Amsoil oil through my website www.bestautofluids.com ? Thank you for sharing your positive experience with Amsoil. Please let me know how you purchased the oil.
repairvehicle - Yes I did.
Thank you very much. If you don't mind, please share this website bestautofluids.com with your friends, family members and your experience with Amsoil. thank you again.
Youre right sir. I use full synthetic in my cars, why? Cause the 5 quarters jug cost me $23 at Walmart. I change it every 3,000 miles, just like a conventional one (i know i can get to 4,000 to 5,000 miles). The reason why i use it is because it's a slightly better oil than conventional (is a mix of conventional and synth). My cars sound like the pur of a kitty cat.
Thanks mate .... from Australia, I have used Amsoil for the last 10 years and for exactly the same reason you state in your video, it is 100 percent synthetic and produced in a lab, not drawn from out of the ground and falsely labelled. It doesn't thicken up with age, no sludge and runs clean with very little carbon deposits if any at all. I'm not a dealer just a consumer with a mechanical background who understands the benefits of clean running oils! Thanks so much for your review, I just hope that people listen to your knowledgeable advice. PS Amsoil is expensive here downunder, but, worth every cent!
Thanks for making the vague marketing terminology clear. The vast majority of consumers have no clue what they are getting for their money when it comes to engine oils and fuel additives.
AMSOIL Steven Brick, thank you for commenting. Please share my video with others if you don't mind via Facebook or any other means.
AMSOIL Steven Brick .9
It's a marketing trick
Motor oil, religion and politics always starts arguments.
That's true!!
Yes, and facts get in the way, especially about Islam. Facts will get you censored on You Tube. Just ask Stefan Molyneux.
Ain't that the truth... 😆
@@amazoidal Who’s Stephan Molyneux?
Look him up. He had a very successful You Tube channel but his site was removed. Another case of censorship. Everything he said was true but the truth scares our controllers. He is out there on another channel.
Exon Mobil were using PAO in their Oils in the 1990's(and long before),and labeling them as Synthetic,which was correct.Castrol(BP) brought out Syntec/Magnatec and labeled the product as synthetic,when it only contained a small percentage of a Synthetic Ester,it was PAO Based from 1992-97,as Castrol were buying the PAO Base Stock from Exxon.Towards the end of 1997,Castrol decided to buy Hydrocracked Slackwax Base from Shell,as it was cheaper,but continued to market Syntec as a Synthetic oil.Exon Mobil didn't like this,so challenged Castrol(BP) in court over the definition of Synthetic Oil.The court ruling stated that ANY Engine Oil that has undergone the Hydrocracking refinement process,can legally be called Synthetic.This means,that since the court ruling in 1999,ANY Oil Manufacturer,can use Hydrocracked Group 3 Base Stock,and call it Synthetic Oi(but not 100% fully synthetic)lAll Oil Manufacturers that offer a Semi/Part Synthetic Oil are using Group 3 Hydrocracked Base Stock,and that includes the very company that brought the court case,Exon Mobil.The Mobil Super Oil Line is Hydrocracked Group 3.The only country where this ruling doesn't apply,is Germany.All Synthetic oils in Germany must be labeled as such,and all Hydrocracked Group 3 Oils are labeled as HC Synthese.There is nothing wrong with using a Hydrocracked Group 3 oil,whether Synthetic,or Part synthetic,as long as the oil is changed regularly,when it is supposed to be.In reality,it is only really worth using a Full PAO Synthetic Oil in an Engine that is very highly stressed,a car that is used on the track/racing etc.
not sure about all your details being correct but the overall statement is. I've read the case and it never said anything about castrol using pao basestocks at all. it said they were using highly refined crude and called it synthetic and underselling mobil 1 as it didn't cost as much to make. but doesn't matter, the GOV allows it and now mobil 1 is fake synthetic oil also.
My only consideration is this: do PAO base Class 4 oils actually run CLEANER than Class 3? (current Mobil 1 user in my Toyotas).
I'm older and anal about oil changes. I dont believe the hype about longer change intervals so I still change every 3k miles.
If PAO oil use results in a cleaner high mileage engine I will switch. Otherwise I think my 4runner and Prius simply wont benefit. One other consideration is oil consumption with PAO oils. Any difference in high mileage engines compared to Class 3?
I use 5W30 and 0W30 in each vehicle respective. Thanks!
Watch this video few more that I will send you and they will answer your questions. th-cam.com/video/P57-ym6XudI/w-d-xo.html
One more video th-cam.com/video/iGnHewfLJps/w-d-xo.html
@@dominiquestephenson7367 pao is far superior to any dino oil. Synthetics were developed during ww2 to get the bombers to fly long range without burning up. Esters are even better than pao. You can get oils like motul and MPT that has ester. Ester has several key benefits. 1. Its polar, so it clings to metal. Reducing wear at startup. 2. It works as good cold as it does hot. Its not bothered by temps. Including high temps. 3. It actually lubes better as more force is exerted on it.
I once owned a Volkswagon Fox and got 400,000 miles out of the engine using regular conventional oil!!! Guess what else you should know. The quality build of the engine also determines how long it will last. If it is not quality, it won't last. I asked a Valvoline oil rep on online chat what is the percentage of conventional and synthetic on their blend oil. He could not answer because he said it is a "proprietary secret". So there you guy folks. You're paying thru the nose for "synthetic oil", or "synthetic blend oil", when it is really conventional with some additives and it could be 99% conventional with one marketed as "synthetic blend"! Pointer #1. Warm your engine in the colder winter days before you run it. Pointer #2. Use the correct grade oil advised by your owner's manual and change oil as directed with a to top quality filter. All the rocket science about synthetic motor oil for cars is for $$$. Where are the mechanical studies that prove there exists a justifiable return on investment on a depreciating asset when a car owner expends extra dollars for any kind of "synthetic" oil. Conventional oil also has additives, etc.
Actually, every full synthetic oil is a mix of synthetic base stock and none synthetic. Proper term should be used, synthetic blend.
Amsoil oil is true synthetic Motor oil.
As long as the engine does blow up, any full synthetic oil is fine. My dad has been using Valvoline full synthetic in a 1989 Civic Si from the very beginning. Still runs smooth and pulls hard, with full synthetic oil changes every 6 months or 5,000 miles with OEM Honda oil filter.
+Richard Ojeda , every oil is different and provides different levels of protection to the engine. Just like every 4 cylinder engine is different, different hp, torque, reliability and so. there's a reason why your Dad choose si instead of Ford escort as an example.
repairvehicle Yea, It's all about preference. They all do the same job.
+Richard Ojeda, if all motor oils did same thing then there would not be any engine sludge build and engine failures. Also, engine repair shops will be out of business.
Richard Ojeda 👊
repairvehicle not true every man made machine or item will fail at some point hands down ...
WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF I PUT ADVANCED SYNTHETIC OIL IN MY CAR IF I WAS USING FULL SYNTHETIC OIL PRIOR?
What do you have and mileage? What is advanced synthetic oil?
Great teaching on the difference! I didn't know that full was not 100%!
+Rev Big D, thank you for commenting. Please subscribe and share with others my video.
Turns out 100% synthetic and full synthetic are the same thing. Amsoil may be a blend of group 3 and group 4 base stock just like “full” synthetics are. Pursuant to a 1990’s law suit between Castrol and Mobil 1, courts ruled that group 3 and 4 base oils are synthetic, therefore any oil that contains one or both of those groups, regardless of proportions, can be called synthetic. So as long as Amsoil contains group 3, even if it’s 100% group 3, they can legally call it 100% synthetic. Thus, 100% synthetic and full synthetic are synonymous. Amsoil admitted this in one of their own blogs.
I like how you not only explain but show the actual facts man what a eye opener thank you ...
This is very educational. They should not be able to label something as synthetic when it is not. Highly refined crude oil is still not made synthetic by the process. They should have to re-label all their grade 3 products to reflect that they are based on crude oil; maybe "Fully refined" or just "Grade 3"
Watch this video th-cam.com/video/xPau9-XGBgw/w-d-xo.html
I see I'm not the only one who was unable to maintain his attention to this video. It raises some questions for me that it doesn't fully answer. I bought and used a few of the "Full Synthetic" oils like Mobil One that he describes as being just a dino oil with only some synthetic additives. I've always used additives, usually bought as a separate product. So, I wonder why, when I switched to these "full synthetic" oils and checked the oil at much longer intervals than I had previously, and also when I changed the oil, I always got a lot cleaner oil on the stick and in the drain pan (??) I really thought something good was happening there. I need to do some more research on this. I also want to say that although I have a decent IQ and I'm pretty tech-savvy I find this labeling situation regarding the synthetic motor oil issue to be very misleading. I don't think I should have to be an automotive and lubricant engineer to know what I'm getting inside the container. Any reasonable person would probably conclude that this is a terrible case of misleading labeling and advertising. Anyway, thanks for your efforts on this video.
Thank you for commenting. I know it's not the best video, I had technical difficulty with video editing software.
It's OK it drew my attention to the subject and got me thinking and that's a good thing.
the video is fine keep up the good work
Ultimately the difference between the groups 1 through group 5 is the temp rating of the oil before it breaks down. Some of you are good at cooking. You know first hand the burn limits of different cooking oils and what that does to your food. Same with engine oils.The higher the group is the higher engine temps the oil can take before it breaks down.Group one oils need to be changed every 3,000 miles because more than 50% of the oil has already broken down and lost its ability to lubricate. Keep driving that engine and the oil will turn to sludge. Group two can take more heat, then group three even more heat and so on. There is a big jump from group 3 to group 4 in terms of heat limits. Then group 5 is again a smaller jump up from group 4. This is why these oils last so long in your engine because they do not break down from heat and can go 25,000 miles or so. It really depends on the engine it is used in as to how long it will last. The hottest engines are 4 cylinder turbos that are pushed into V8 horsepower levels or beyond. A N/A V8 600 HP engine might actually run significantly cooler than that 4 banger with a turbo trying to put out 300+ horsepower. So to answer some peoples questions, Mobil 1 full synthetic is a group 3 oil, Amsoil is a group 5 oil. Amsoil will outlast Mobil 1 full synthetic by a significant margin before it breaks down when used in the same engine under the same driving conditions as a qualifier. And Mobil 1 full synthetic will outlast a group one oil but not by a very large margin. Lets say a group one oil in most cases is good for 3,000 miles. Then that group 3 oil should last maybe 5,000 miles under the same conditions. A group 5 oil under the same conditions could go 25,000 miles. Group 4 maybe 18,000 miles. To know for sure for your particular engine and your driving habits have your oil tested by an oil lab to see what its life is like in your engine.
+Dan Hammond , thanks for commenting. What brand of oil are you using?
I use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.
Dan Hammond
T6 ! I used to run this in my old Subaru WRXSTI now I have a new STI and I run Amsoil signature series
That's actually a very good summary. Temperature tolerance!! The rest is done with additives that are put into the oil.
Temperature tolerance is one thing but I'm still skeptical of these ultra long change intervals. The filter is simply incapable of trapping metal and contaminants effectively for that long of a period. Thanks for clearly explaining this but for my low compression NA port injected Toyota engines, Mobil 1 w/3k change interval seems best approach. Tell me if I'm missing something.
I use Kendall synthetic $2.99 a quart changed the filter every other oil change at 6,000 miles on my Honda accord with 375 k miles now. Still going strong.
Are you the original owner?
repairvehicle Yes Iam the original owner.Only one store I know sell Kendall full synthetic.
Does your car burn any oil?
repairvehicle Honesty I put 5 quarts that fill the dipstick to the top of the dot. By the time to change the oil @ 6k miles the dipstick will read in between the dot, I guess that is normal oil burning in the engine I never have to top it up until another oil change.Normally 4.78 quarts is required.I always put 5 quarts with no problem up to this day.It is a good habit to check the level once in while.
Efren Saclolo where can you get Kendall at?
Holly crap really? I thought I was getting 100% synthetic oil now I know
Thanks
Wrt to inlet port coking of GDI engines, I believe having engine oil with the lowest possible NOACK (evaporative loss) index is the key. Also as is well documented inlet port carbon build up is exacerbated by modern PCV emmision recirculation requirements, turbo cooling (400°C temps compared to 200°C max with NA engines); extended drainage intervals (the oil evaporation rate goes up with aging oil) and in some cases leakage down from valve stem guide seals. All that said 100% Synthetic oils have the lower NOACK ratings, i.e. are much better in this regard.
Never used synthetic until my current vehicle since the owners manual says to use if it gets below a certain temp during the winter, which it does where I live. I buy cheap stuff but it flows better in the cold than conventional and is suppose to last longer.
The best oil is clean oil...
+Dennis Morris, there is more to an Oil than just being clean. Clean doesn't mean it's best. From machinery lubrication website While most engine oils are made to acceptable standards, their general and specific qualities can vary widely. Poor-quality engine oils are often put on the market due to ignorance or greed. Unfortunately, for the uninformed automobile owner, a high-quality engine oil and one of poor quality will look and feel the same.
No logic! Put some clean peanut oil in your car clown! Duhhhhhhhhhhh U iz smartz!
+repairvehicle however, most cars on the street don't need group IV oil, it would be a waste of money. Group 3 oil is more than sufficient for most application. I buy the cheapest oil for my 2005 SUV as even the cheap oil must meet SAE standard. I only use group 4 oil for my motorbike which i rev to 8000-10000 rpm often.
How often do you change your oil?
Best Oil is the one that protects engine from wear. How about 13 months on oil and 8k miles City driving only 5ppm metal wear. That's a best Oil.
very educational video. Wasn't sure what to expect when I bumped across this vid on youtube but I definitely learned something I didn't know. Suggestion for future vids, condense down to just give a summary and try to cut length in half. Many people probably start watching and don't finish because of the length of vid. You could post links in description to verify your findings for those wanting more proof or willing to give more time to this (rather than showing all that in one video and extending the length of the vid).
Many thanks for your effort.
+Doyle Redwine , thank you for the advice. I have been trying to make my videos short to the point. Please subscribe and share my videos with others.
OMG, finally correct "Synthetic" oil info. First time I haven't had to go on my rant about what is and what is not a "Synthetic" oil, and how most oils advertised as "Synthetic" are really just over priced over refined crude oil\Group III base stocks.
full synthetic IS NOT 100% synthetic. its a blend, and missleading
3 Oils out there are REAL SYNTHETIC...ROYAL PURPLE...AMZOIL AND (MOTORCYCLE OIL) (TORCO T & not sure this is right)...UM ALL OTHERS ARE BLENDED FROM REGULAR OIL PUMPED OUT OF THE GROUND...PENNZOILS OH HEK...QUAKER STATE EVEN VALVOLINE...MORE...TOO MANY TO LIST...
@@bigsparky8888 LiquiMoly is 100% PAO Group 4. Made in Germany
@@bigsparky8888 There are a few more True Synthetic Oils out there. Neo Synthetic Oil Base IV PAO, Lucas Hi-Performance Base IV PAO, Redline Base V Ester, SynLube Lube4Life Base IV and Base V carefully blended together.
@@bigsparky8888 I have a bottle of royal purple. It says on the back that it's a blend.
@@hazelstreet1654 WOW...I am not well versed in Royal Purple but is it the Synthetic...or a Racing Oil that is for new engines???
There is nothing wrong with using Mobil1 Full Synthetic oil as long as you change it as recommended by the manufacturer and don't subject your vehicle to extreme temperatures and don;t do much towing.
Most engine wear (95%) happens during the first several minutes after a cold engine start. Doing this in very cold temperatures facilitates even more engine wear. This is where a good synthetic oil is very beneficial because it flows much better at cold temperatures and will reach the critical engine areas much faster than regular oil. Synthetic also remains it's viscosity better at very high temperatures, especially in engines used for towing and/or racing.
Quality synthetic oils, like Amsoil, also do a much better job at keeping your engine clean. This is why many people who switch to a quality synthetic oil, experience the new oil becoming dark very quickly. It's simply cleaning away all the deposits left in the engine by the cheap oil.
Amsoil is not very cheap but it's well worth it. This is why many amateur and aerobatic pilots would not use anything but Amsoil in their airplane engines, especially in 2 stroke, high performance engines.
Andrew Ivanov Amsoil synthetic Oil IS not approved for use in aviation engines, aerobatic or otherwise. If you are a distributor and a pilot as I am, you seriously need to stop misrepresenting the Amsoil product. Amsoil is not in the Aviation business.
Amsoil is 100% synthetic
After I've gone through my stock of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 I will order Amsoil.
Thank you for doing this video. You are another one in my camp who knows the difference and wants to educate the world on this subject.
I suspect that synthetic blends are recycled oil that has been "blended" when different oils are poured together at the collection site. That's not a bad thing, because motor oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty. They filter the oil and adjust the viscosity with additives. But they don't dare let it be known, lest people think it cheap or inferior.
+Don Swank, why oil gets dirty? Because it wears out, oil no longer providing lubrication and metal against metal rubbing, creates fine particles that pollute motor oil. Also, who knows what's in synthetic blend?
If u don't change oil it brakes down and slugs up and gets a gas smell
The companies are allowed to use the term "Synthetic" as long as they add a synthetic additive. Could be a 95% additive or a 3% synthetic additive, doesn't matter how much. It has to be advertised "100% Synthetic" as you say.
Actually, according to the big "trial" in 1997 or so, any oil company can use the words "Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" or ""Full Synthetic" IF the oil is molecularly modified. Changed in some way from just cracking crude. Easy to do.This applies only in the USA. If the oil is from Germany or Japan, and has the word "Synthetic" on the label, it must be Group 4 or 5. Group 5 is usually ester that is used in jet engines. REDLINE, AMSOIL and Royal Purple all have some ester. Some say 50-50 APO/POE. Foreign car owners like German brands like Motul or Liqui-Moly. Excellent oils especially if you need a 5-50 for an exotic car. Some of their oils supposedly have a lot of Ester. Ester is used in jet engines because jet engine bearings don't have cooling systems. Ester resists high heat that would fry a Group 3. Look for "Jet oil" on Amazon. About $30 a quart.
who makes 100% synthetic now?
Amsoil
that means I'm gonna change my oil ASAP. Thought I was fine for all winter with my synthetic oil, that is not synthetic... I mean, I have something like 4000 km with this oil, but stop and go driving everyday with a 200-300 km trip once a week. So it's recommended to change it every 3000 miles or 3 months in that case. I don't know if the 3 months stop and go is another scam from oil companies cause my car is a pontiac and they did want you to buy GM oil
Stay subscribed, i am going to reveal more information on same subject.
Great video and very informative. I drive a 2015 Honda cr-v with 38,000 miles on it and I use it for back and forth to work. Would it be a waste of time using a 100% synthetic oil in this car? Does Mobil 1 0w-20 have synthetic additives in it? Mobil 1 0w-20 is all I ever used in that car. Thank you for your time sir.
It all depends on what you want to see. Trouble free engine and not burning oil and not leaking Oil from seals, comes with quality Oil.
Cheap Oil equals cheap results, engine burning oil and engine leaking Oil from the seals.
Full synthetic Motor oils made from 80-90% conventional oil and 10-20% synthetic oil. In reality, full synthetic oil is just synthetic blend.
100% synthetic oil is made from synthetic oil, they are not called full synthetic.
@@repairvehicle Thank you for getting back to me and for your advice. Take care my friend.
2007 Honda Civic DX 269000 original miles using Mobil 1 10w 30 never had any oil failure never had any engine failure
No oil consumption?
@@repairvehicle Nope, no oil consumption.
Good stuff! So do you think oil made from natural gas (Pennzoil) is basically the same as any other oil produced from the ground too? Thanks.
Yes, still comes from ground and has impurities
My oil is clean and of good quality however when i next change it i will be looking out for this! Excellent vlog. Thank you
Mobil 1 should of stuck with group 4 . If it did it would be higher perceived value and people will buy base on that
Mobil 1, like all the other brands, was real synthetic, Group 4 or 5, before 1998. Then Castrol got away with calling a molecularly-modified Dino-oil "Synthetic" and almost every oil company "downgraded" to Group 3 and called it "synthetic". No difference between "Synthetic", "Full Synthetic" and "100% Synthetic". Just marketing terms in the United States.
I've been using Amsoil since 1995 in my 1994 Ford ranger. 162,000 miles and still lays rubber.
I have actually read and seen Motul use Base 3 or group 3 blend with esters. so I can't say motul is true 100% pure synthetic
They are both good if they meet the specs for your vehicle/engine. The 100% will be slightly more expensive and slightly better at protecting the engine. Make sure the oil stays clean and the filter is not overused.
My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.2 V8 is still going strong for 25 years without engine overhaul. Right now it is 391,000 miles. Several years ago, I've used conventional oil then blue smoke came out from tail pipe as I didn't like so, I switched to Mobil One Synthetic oil with royal purple oil filter for years without any problem as well always passed smog check too.
Good information. Well explained. Thank you.
Thank you!
Oscar Lechuga Amsoil will always be # 1 I run my AMsoil changes 100,000 miles per change on Gas engine with full filtration units 500,000 miles 94 dodge 5.7 still going
I've always bought mobil1 0w 40 because I read it was the only mobil1 that was 100% synthetic. European formula is what it was called. Was this not true?
Is the Amsoil OE and XL oil considered Group IV? Are they 100% synthetic? I’ve been using Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic but am thinking about using Amsoil for my Silverado.
I don't know if it's group 4 or 5, it's not posted anywhere online. According to the Amsoil website, they use synthetic base stock. Watch this video th-cam.com/video/XYyGS_U13II/w-d-xo.html
What year is your Silverado?
It’s a 2011 Vortec 5.4 V8 Flex-fuel. In the summer I run E85.
You have 5.3 engine, ford has 5.4. I strongly advise not to use e85, pure garbage, it's worse thing you can do your engine. E85 is corrosive and it destroys everything from fuel system to your engine components. Also, with e85 you supposed to change Oil every 3k miles or 3 months max. If you are planning to use e85 use XL as a minimum.
Alright thanks for the heads up, if I run regular gas do you think the Amsoil OE oil will last longer than Mobil 1 Full Synthetic? Right now I’m running regular gas with Mobil 1 oil and it burns about half a quart in 3000 miles. I’ve started changing my oil every 5000 miles now.
I read that Amsoil OE and XL are group 3 oils. If this is true how does Amsoil say these oils are 100% Synthetic? It’s my understanding that only the Signature Series is Group 4 & 5 oil.
False information
Hi repairvehicle ! I would like to use Amsoil Oe , because of my new car warranty (Honda Accord sport 2018 1.5 turbo vtec di )owner manual want me to use 0w20 with API label . I know that SS is better , but it doesn’t have Api label , and I don’t want avoid my warranty, and want to change oil by car oil indicator .According amsoil website OE and XL are 100% synthetic . Is it? And which of those oils you recommend for severe service ? Thank you for informative video .
Based on the information available to me on their website, it is 100,% synthetic. XL will be a better option for severe service. Don't let API symbol scare you. API symbol is for marketing purposes only, symbol has nothing to do with oil quality or warranty. Check this video about API scam, th-cam.com/video/xPau9-XGBgw/w-d-xo.html
what is shell rotella t6 5w40? is that group 4
It's a mix of 2,3, 4, that's why it's called full synthetic. It should be called synthetic blend.
How do you know?
repairvehicle I’ve been using Rotella t-6 for several years thinking full synthetic was the same as 100% synthetic. At my next service interval I’m going to make the switch to amsoil. Which amsoil do you recommend for the Cummins x-15? It has an 11 gallon fill so I’m talking a fairly large investment to switch. Should I go with the turbo or heavy duty? I was thinking the 5w30 heavy duty would be the correct oil.
@@clintonkirker5154 what year and make of your truck?
repairvehicle 2019 freightliner cascadia with a Cummins x15 efficiency series engine. It is still a relatively new truck. It just turned 61,118 miles and only has 1190.4 engine hours with 94.3 hours of idle.
What is the best oil will you recommend? My engine is old it takes 10W30 oil.
What do you have and mileage?
@@repairvehicle I have a 2001 pontiac grand prix 3800 v6 with 117000 miles.
I recommend amsoil xl www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2001/pontiac/grand-prix/3-8l-6-cyl-engine-code-1-l67-5/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle Thanks for your recommendation. I appreciate it.
@@aboodmki3 , are you sure it's g8?
Awesome video my friend. Thanks for that great information about engine oils.👌🏻
Mannol is German oil company but has a manufacturing plant in Lithuania or Poland, i think?
It says full synthetic on some of the range of oils it sells. Do you know if the oils they sell as full synthetic are actually 100% synthetic because its a German company or have they got oil plants in other part of Europe to avoid the law in Germany itself where if its stated fully synthetic, then it has to be 100% synthetic. The flash point of the oil etc is just 0.1 degrees less than the Motul 100% synthetic oil in similar ranges. The Mannol oil is less than half the price of Motul oil. There has got to be a catch don't you think because why is it so cheap compared to Motul's 100% synthetic oil range.
I don't think full synthetic oil is True 100% synthetic oil in Germany.
In that case i think its better to go for ones that say clearly its 100% synthetic. Motul for me then.
Correct.
May be off point a little here but after you hit close to 100,000 mis., anyone care to expound as to whether switching to a conventional oil, due to a slight engine tick on startup would be a good idea as long as you use 3000 mile intervals? Been using Mobil 1 full synthetic since first oil change. Any suggestions appreciated.
+Robert LaFountaine, engine noise in the morning is a result of metal rubbing against metal without oil. Switching to regular oil will not solve the engine problem it will make worse. Regular oil does not flow well when it's cold, meaning engine parts will be rubbing against each other without proper lubrication. What are you driving and how many miles on it? How often were you changing oil with Mobil?
I had no clue I just got suckered into buying the "full synthetic" from Walmart today. $22 for 5 quarts versus over $50 for the 100% synthetic, so had a feeling there was something more to this!
It doesn't really matter change the oil on time and use synthetic and your car will run forever
Let me ask you? What cost less, 1 oil change or 3 Oil changes??? What is better Oil that gives low metal wear numbers or high metal wear numbers??
repairvehicle id rather do 3 oil changes but that's my opinion. I like looking under my car every once in a while and changing the oil out more frequently even if it costs more.
Thank you for your honest answer.
Mobil 1 vs. Castrol LOL it's a classic. And I even work for a Castrol Lube company I laugh at are synthetic indexes licensed oil because none of it is actually synthetic yet we charge quadruple the price. They patient to they pay minimum wage I'm actually looking for another job tired of working this place for years believing I might work
+Katea Jurors, thank you for commenting sharing very valuable information.
Company "C" Castrol, company "M" Mobil.
Maline Khun, correct.
All the Mobil fan boys should know that the decal on the race car does not mean that this car has the oil you can buy at Pep Boys or Kragen. If fact, you wouldn't want a Group 3 in a race car. First, you don't want any detergent. It takes up room that you could use lubricant instead. You don't need detergent if the oil is changed after every race. Second, you want an oil with loads of PAO and POE which is in the best real synthetic oils. Almost all of Mobil 1 oils have none or a token of real synthetic bases.If Mobil sold this magic syn at Pep Boys or Kragen, it would be at least $30 a quart. It probably cost Mobil under $1.50 a quart to make Mobil 1"synthetic" you find at the auto parts store.
@@amazoidal That is just too much exaggeration Stanny. Even Motul 300V has some detergents. Just enough. But you are right, engine oil from the parts store is for long life rather than racing. There is oil in the stores suitable for HP Corvettes and BMWs.
All consumer synthetic oils have detergent. Even consumer racing oil. But professional synthetics are custom-crafted for the specific racing. Top fuel dragster oils are different from Daytona 500 or Indianapolis 500 oils. If you are a Pro, it's a different oil world. The labels look industrial, not pretty and ad-filled. And of course the disclaimer: "NOT FOR RETAIL SALE"
i remember that lawsuit, thus also known as synth blend or full synthetic, stupid cast*** made the oil industry more confusing at least Mob*** tried hahahaha
Should I be fine to put Amsoil 0w40 European car formula in my opel astra 1.8 liter gasoline engine?
I will flush the old oil, which is Shell helix hx8 5w40 and put the liquid gold. I am also curious will the oil be good for 10,000 miles or should I change it sooner. I will change the oil filter twice in that period, because I will put 100% synthetic for the first time, that's why I will also do an engine flush to try to remove most of the crud.
How many miles or kilometers on the engine? What type of oil filter are you planning to use?
293,000 kilometers and I'm planning on using Amsoil filter if I can find one here, or other very good quality filter!
The thing is I am in a very fucked up situation and with time I don't see how my situation will go and the last thing I want is to have a surprice repair on my car.
I changed my mind to 5w40 european formula, because I can save some bucks.
The current oil I'm running is Shell helix hx8 5w40, but the price difference with Amsoil is just aeound 10 bucks and I want my car to last until 330,000 kms. After that I will probably have saved enough for a new car.
Thanks for your attention, brotha!
This is what is on the amsoil website.
"Service Life Recommended for the extended drain intervals established by the vehicle manufacturer. Change oil filter at time of oil change."
Its hard to say if the oil will be good for 10k miles or not. With high mileage on the engine, you might have a lot of fuel dilution and a lot of exhaust gasses passing through the rings into oil and shortening oil life. Oil analysis can say if you can go10k miles or not.
I am also using alternative fuel(LPG) and I think that's why the engine is lasting so long.
With gasoline you are right for the dillution, but with Lpg you just have tomaintain your system and you are fine! My Shell helix is currently 6,500 kms and it's barely broken in. But after a month the temperatures here will go below - 15C° so I don't want to take chances. Plus the drawback of LPG is that the camshaft is running hotter and it burns oil,1 liter per 10,000 kms, bit I live with that, because it is so much cheaper to have LPG!
I think I will just put Amsoil and the other things I've said and just keep and eye on the oil conditioning after 10,000 kms.
Thank you again for your advice and be healthy!
in Germany you cannot say fully synthetic by law unless the oil is group 4 PAO synthetic. In USA you only have to have 27% to say full synthetic.
LiquiMoly fully synthetic is made in germany and group 4 PAO. is an example. Motul is made in france and is 100% synthetic.
USA is so marketing driven!
If you drive hard and or have a high-performance engine it's not even that much more expensive to use LiquiMoly. It's $10 more an oil change.
If you have a turbocharged motor use 100% synthetic. If you are not your motor oil is coking every time you shut your motor down. The turbo bearings are still hot as hades and sitting in the same oil that is not circulating. In my opinion it is a must.
If one has a turbo they must "idle down" before shutting the motor down. Let it idle for a couple of minutes to ensure the oil will not coke. This was common practice years ago but you never hear of this anymore.
If you tell people this, then majority of the people will not purchase turbocharged vehicles. Also, turbo problems keeps dealers in business.
@@repairvehicle nah I dont mean it that way. For the most part a turbo is an excellent way of getting power and can still be efficient. If you run good synthetic there is little to worry about.
Agree with you about getting power. There is negative side of the turbo. Reliability, turbo lag, engine oil life is shorter.
@@repairvehicle the newer turbos have little lag and because it takes no horsepower to make power with turbos they are much for efficient when built properly than a supercharger. New ones are reasonably reliable as well.
U the man, right on.
This guy is a Amsoil sales person, Amsoil is a great oil but way over priced. Basic oil changes of any good brand oil will keep your engine clean and running for many years. My jeep has over 375,000 miles and still runs great. I change my oil every 3 months. I buy any good brand that's on sale.
+n/a n/a , how is over priced? Are you saying that 4 Oil changes with basis Oil cost less than one oil change with Amsoil? What cost less 4 filters vs one filter?
+n/a n/a , what are you paying for the quart of oil and filter?
Valvoline synpower is a mix of group 3 and IV.
Yes..so is mobil 1.
Hello: Very good video. In Germany you can´t cheat the customers with the term Full Synthetic....
Right. In Germany and Japan if it's labeled "Synthetic", it must be at least Group 4.
I have a 2013 Prius wagon I bought 1 year ago.
I’m a senior gal who tries to study.
So, I have put only about 5 k miles on in one year. I live in so Cal climate wise.
I was told by dealer that I need to change the oil once a year since it takes synthetic.
This video makes me wonder. It makes me wonder if I need to be really worried about which oil I put in it.
I was thinking of going to Wallmart or Goodyear for my oil change cause they were cheaper than others.
So, the previous owner took care of the car as far as carfax looked. It had 43k miles on it when I bought it.
I’ve put roughly 5 k on it in one year.
Should I change the oil once a year?
Can I safely use Wallmart or Goodyear? Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Please subscribe and share this video with others.
It all comes down to how much you love your vehicle and how much a trouble free vehicle you want to have.
Keep in mind, full synthetic oil is not synthetic and has it's limitations.
There are 100% synthetic Motor oils and superior to any full synthetic Motor oil.
There's 2 or 3 types of full synthetic Oils.
1. Low grade full synthetic, it's a cheap synthetic oil.
2. Mid grade full synthetic oil, price is higher and usually has higher mileage interval.
3. High grade full synthetic oil, price is much higher and usually has much longer drain interval. Still not better than 100% synthetic Motor oil.
You must change your oil every year, even if you drive 1k miles a year. Heat, condensation, by products from gasoline, chemical reaction within the Oil, shortens engine oil life.
Also, Oil filter can last only 1 year.
You can take your vehicle to any place you trust for oil change. It must be trustworthy.
Don't forget to ask what brand of oil they use. Stay away from synthetic blend Oil or recycled Oil.
If Walmart and Goodyear offer, brands like, Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and Amsoil then you can take it there.
I personally use Amsoil oil and I like it. A lot of smaller shops may offer these brands if you are interested.
Red Line Oil is Ester based Group V by your chart.
Excellent Video, which full synth oil provides the most engine protection ? and, full zinc mineral oil vs full synth oil would be good vids
What do you drive?
Waoooo you are so good . Right now am using advanced full synthetic because mobil 1 thanks
Which one is better between amsoil 100% PAO syn VS Motul 300V 100% syn Ester based ?, thanks
Amsoil oil is better and beyond any other brands can offer.
the 300V has ester which is a race day oil not meant to be long term. Corrosive to seals and metals. Recommend LiquiMoly. made in germany and 100% synthetic PAO group 4
Thank you, Sir for your honest review, and I will follow your advise.
Oscar Lechuga, if you have decided to use Amsoil products, and I if don't mind please don't forget to use my number 5257753 during checkout. Thank you.
Very interesting!!
Thank you!!!
So I will get the Amsoil!
You are welcome. Please use this website for Amsoil purchases www.bestautofluids.com
Charles McCormack check out Liqui Moly oils from Germany. You can Google it or check out some TH-cam videos. HumbleMechanic on TH-cam has a good one with a rep from Germany. Liqui Moly oil. You can buy it with free shipping from EBay or Amazon. Look up which one is for your car. Different cars different oils.
Have you tried Amsoil products?
Amsoil has free shipping and wholesale price.
Thank you for the information
Most of the synthetic oils out there are group 3 oils which are great oils for 90% of drivers out there and should be changed 5-10k depending on how you drive and your environment. If you drive really hard or have a sports car etc then it's a good idea to go group 4.
All full synthetic Oils made from group 1-3 or 1-5. No one makes full synthetic oil from just one group. They are just synthetic blends. 100% synthetic oil is made from group 4 or 5.
Full synfuels still have base crude but you have to admit full synthetic is more refined with less large particles than standard
The same analogy with "organic". People believe that because it says organic, it is true. There is no such thing unless you grow your vegetables in your backyard. In Europe and Asia, they also have to label oils with "100%" on the label to make the distinction that indeed are made of synthetic base.
+Bernardo B, very good comparison. Please subscribe and share my video with others. Thank you.
Does that apply to all brands and auto oil change shops that use the word full synthetic like jiffy lube and valvoline oil changers. How can we like for sure if the oil change shop I go uses 100 percent pr fully. I know we can ask but I can picture it already. I ask and they say I dont know. Most are kids working in those places.
Everything labeled with full synthetic oil, is not true synthetic. Just change more often and don't follow factory recommended intervals or light on the dashboard.
"Full synthetic" is not the same as "conventional" because "full synthetic" base stock goes through a process called hydrocracking that greatly improves the conventional base stock to something much better than conventional but not as good as "full synthetic" base stock. However, PAO's or "fully synthetic" base stock needs the addition of esters for combining the add package, which is not a good thing.
Full synthetic is not synthetic oil
I have a 2016 Tacoma with the new Modified Atkinson 3.5 liter engine. Toyota requires a 0W 20W synthetic for this engine. Once the warranty runs out I'm thinking about using Amsoil 0W 30W and running 20K oil and filter changes. Also, the Mobil 1, Amsoil and Boush oil filters all appear to be identically the same, are they?
L. Paul Chamberland, I personally would not wait for the warranty to expire. I switched my camry and sequoia to the Amsoil before warranty expired and great results. Bosch and mobil oil filters are very similar, not Amsoil. Amsoil filter and TRD filter very similar, I have videos on my channel about Amsoil filters and TRD filters. I personally would not recommend 0w-30 oil weight unless owners manual allows. Why, because of the vvti (variable valve timing system relies on thinner high quality motor to function properly).
Thanks and appreciate the advice concerning the VVT and viscosity issue. The dealership offers a free two year service plan and changes the oil at 10K miles, a Toyota recommendation. I have another 3K left to go on what will be the last free oil change. When oil change time happens again I will be making the jump to Amsoil 0W 20W and Amsoil filter. The plan is to do oil changes at 20K intervals. As for the owner's manual the only thing it warns against is using a 5W 20W except for topping off or one time oil change but is not recommended for normal use. I live in far northern Maine where this year we had 130 plus inches of snow with temps in the -20 to -40 range and chill factors off the minus scale. So oil selection and service intervals are critical. I will keep you posted on how this new modified Atkinson handles Amsoil. I'm a loyal Mobil 1 fan but anxious to upgrade to Amsoil. Thanks again.
L. Paul Chamberland, thank you for asking. You definitely will enjoy Amsoil products. I think you will see a big difference in the winter time during cold starts. Here in Pittsburgh on cold winter days I have seen big differences between when engine starts with Amsoil filled vs non Amsoil. Please don't forget to use my number 5257753, when you decide to make a purchase online.
Your number is a matter of record, thanks. Double checked owner's manual concerning high end viscosity. Toyota says I can use a higher end viscosity if driving high speed or heavy loads. Neither of which will happen as this is my "weapons platform" for use during the hunting season. I'm thinking, as per your suggestion, this little truck will never need anymore than what is required by Toyota. BTW, I am a retired mechanic and former automotive instructor with the U.S. Air Force and I'd like to compliment you regarding your thoroughness in researching oil products and making strong sensible cases of same. Great job!
L. Paul Chamberland, by the way I am certified Amsoil dealer and I am very passionate about automotive lubrication. I do a lot research and study motor oils and different types of lubricatants. If you make a purchase online using that number I will get small commission from Amsoil, that's what that number is for. Again, thank you.
Good Stuff, Great Tips😃👍🏿
It’s good to see diesel truck owners commenting!
I went down a huge oil rabbit hole on TH-cam about a year ago and Amsoil is the only thing I put in my motorcycle now.
@@dwendt44 Please provide a link to this information. The only 2 oil companies that use true synthetic base stock is amsoil and Motul. Mobil one does not offer 100% synthetic so I'm skeptical that they make it but do not offer it in their own products
thank you,,,awesome video full of knowledge
Castrol EDGE (formerly SYNTEC) and Mobile 1 European Blend meet ACEA, A3/B3, and A3/B4 requirements for BMW, VW, Porche, and Mercedes Benz. It is listed as a FULL SYNTHETIC and has 15k oil change intervals.
Thankyou for your hardwork in your presentations on educating the public. I've used every brand under the sun over the past 30 years, Nothing, repeat NOTHING out performs Amsoil. Their synthetic Transmission fluid is just plain liquid Gold! Engine oil is second to nobody as well, and no i'm not a Amsoil dealer, just appreciate the laws of the universe,and Amsoil has a great handle on that!
dneitzke, thank you. I really appreciate your comment.
repairvehicle Do I need to flush the old oil first if I want to switch to Amsoil?
+Kamarunizam Hashim , what year is your car and how many miles on it?
repairvehicle Toyota Wish 2010. Mileage 40k miles. I seldom use it cause like to use bike to avoid heavy traffic.
+Kamarunizam Hashim, you don't have use any engine flush products in order to switch to Amsoil oil. What you have to do is to drain old oil and replace old oil filter with new oil filter and add new oil.
Awesome information I just subscribed to your channel thank you
Both full synthetic and 100% synthetic are both better than mineral grade and most blends. I have run Supertech full synthetic 15kmiles with a filter halfway and a top off, sent that 15k oil to Blackstone labs and the result was positive with miles left in the oil. Any synthetic is better than group 2's.
Freddie Krueger, in what vehicle did you run super tech for 15k? also, what brand of oil filter did use. do you remember for how long the oil was still good?
Wow! You ran 15K on the Supertech Full synthetic oil? I only ran it until 10K since my service light on the car came in at 5K for oil changes. Guess, I wasn't the only person see the value of using Supertech brand. LOL
Iv used many oils in my vehicles. Iv came to the conclusion that amsoil is the best for me because it does not get as black as fast as the other main brand oil I have used. I have one question though I was a big fan of pens oil until I started using it in my trucks in wich I used to use it in my dirt bikes, can anyone tell me why that when I try to use pensoil in my trucks that it makes my engine sound like a ticking time bomb but any other oil I use does not do this.
it's hard to say without knowing what you have and which pennzoil you were using.
@@repairvehicle I have a 1996 jeep cherokee, a 2002 ford f150 4.6l v8, a 2013 ram 1500 5.7l, and a 2001 Mustang cobra. I've used pensoil in all of these vehicles and there is more valve train noise then if I used any other oil. The kind of pensoil I'm talking about is both conventional and platinum synthetic. It's only the new stuff if I used older pensoil as in before they came out with the natural gas base oil then I get no valve train noise. I have a store down the road from me that sells older oils and that is where I get the older pensoil to use in my dirtbikes.
I thought my sound audio was broken!
So full synthetic is only slightly better than conventional oil?
Correct, your statement applies to cheap full synthetic Motor oil.
Don't forget to subscribe and click the bell. I will be adding additional information about Motor oil to my channel.
What oil do you use in your tundra? 100% synthetic?
100% synthetic
@@repairvehiclewhat kind of oil filters do you use in the tundra cuz I saw that your not a fan of the OEM ones
I’m not a fan of 40s technology in modern engine. This is what I use www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oil-filter-eaoilfilt/?zo=5257753
Bro I took your advice Im running 5w30 XL boosted Amsoil says its good for 12k miles.
In what vehicle are you using?
well done! thank you
Thank you for this it needed to be said and everyone know
Great video, I learned a lot to take away from this when shopping for motor oil. I'm also bookmarking some of the links you showed for further reading.
So what oil should I be using for my 2014 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder. I been using 0W-20 oil full synthetic from Toyota. I have roughly 80,000 miles on it
thank you for asking. If you want best engine protection use this motor oil, its 100% synthetic. I am using in my own Toyotas, great results and engine wear is not even happening www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2014/toyota/camry/2-5l-4-cyl-engine-code-2ar-fe-b/us-volume/?zo=5257753
I know people try to save money on oil changes but a vehicle costs a lot of money why go to Walmart and buy Sam's choice oil and a Fram filter on something you rely on to get you to work that you love has a sentimental value and was expensive why skimp out on the lifeblood Amsoil is expensive but you get what you pay for with oil and if you run Signature Series you can go 25k instead of 5-10k why not put the best oil on the market the first and synthetics in your vehicle cheap insurance. And this is coming from someone that used to be Die Hard mobile one fan boy!
is 100% PAO oil suitable for diesel engines or we have to buy diesel specific oil like Motul specific crdi 5w40 which is claimed 100% synthetic?
What is the brand of your vehicle and year?
@@repairvehicle fiat punto multijet 1.3 75ps. The motul x-cess 5w40 is Fiat 9.55535-m2/n2/z2 certified and 100% synthetic but its usually used in high performance petrol engines. Hence asked if i should choose that or motul specific crdi diesel 5w40 oil. It doesnot have the fiat approval but is made for diesel engines
P.S Car is having a dieseltronic tuning box and is currently 25000+ kms on odometer
use motor oil that meets specifications required by fiat.
how many miles can full synthetic go on severe driving conditions.
I'm at around 5,600. But I also have a mobil filter that claims
to go up to 20,000 miles. But what about severe conditions.
+Soldier1287, take a look at this video it has partial or full answer to your question. Also, I will get you more info for your question th-cam.com/video/iGnHewfLJps/w-d-xo.html
+Soldier1287, severe condition is different for each vehicle. Some car manufacturers state severe as 3k miles others say 5k miles. It comes down to, vehicle type pick up truck vs car, v8 and turbo charged vehicles are very hard on oil and it's severe condition. Also, direct injection has very negative effect on Motor Oil in general. What is the year and make of your vehicle?
yes mine says 3k. but thats with conventional oil. hyundai 2008. yes injected i think
then I heard full synthetic goes longer like 5-7k miles.
but i wonder if longer with the oil filter that says can go to 20k. maybe 10k miles?
Amsoil? Yes indeed the best there is. Dealer since 1987.
I used to use Amsoil. But since I moved, I can't find a distributor.
Best price is online not at the distributor. bestautofluids.com Free shipping is available.
What about Liqui moly top tech 5w40? I heard its really good oil for vw engines? What you think my friends
What year vw and engine size?
@@repairvehicle I have 2007 skoda Octavia 1.9tdi diesel rider clocked around 105000kms on odometer.
@@repairvehicle ?
I don't know if it's really good or not. Not very popular here in US.
@@repairvehicle How's Amsoil European car formula?
So is the only benefit of these group 4+ oils the amount of time/KMs they last? What production motor can be pushed to 300F for any amount of time without other parts breaking?
Here is the thing where amsoil has advantage over the other brands.
1. Longer oil change interval up to 25k miles.
2. Lowest evaporation rate of any other oil brands, less oil consumption. I don't have any oil consumption between oil changes. Every 13 months I change oil and filter.
3. Best engine protection over long drain interval. I am getting 4ppm metal wear numbers in city driving after 13 months and 8k miles.
4. It has more detergent that any other brand of oil on the market, keeps engine clean even at 25k miles interval. Has been tested and proven. Also, fleet of F150, commercial customers use.
5. It cost less to maintain vehicle, 1 oil change with amsoil vs 5 oil changes with other brands.
6. Amsoil has different types of motor oil and different prices.
7. OE oil for factory recommended intervals.
8. XL oil good for 12k miles.
9. Signature series oil good for up to 25k miles.
10. take a look. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/?zo=5257753
repairvehicle thanks for reply. Good info. Is OE spec still group 4?
thank you for asking. I don't know if its group 4. Its says 100% synthetic.
On amazon I see ultra lube 100% synthetic, amsoil, and ecolite motul claiming to be 100% synthetic. Can you test them and see who is the best?
Amsoil has test results on their website. Ultra lube and ecolite motul does not have any test data on their website. If you want best, Amsoil is your only option.
@@repairvehicle Hi. Is Amsoil 100% synthetic 5w30 suitable for Civic mk9 1.4 petrol? Thank you.
What year?
@@repairvehicle 2013
If 5w-30 is correct viscosity for your civic then Amsoil 5w-30 is suitable.
If you are an Amsoil dealer, how do I support your sales for it?
Thank you