I bought a used Coachman Freelander that had a roof leak very similar to the one in this video. Just a bit of an area where the wallpaper was loose - same as you showed. The roof had been re-sealed and I thought it was fine. I kept track of the roof and resealed anything regularly if it looked "iffy". On a trip to Texas my wife got a drip over her head in the passenger seat whenever we drove in the rain. When we got home I discovered a piece of molding had come loose on the top/side of the front cap. When I got investigating I discovered the plywood on the bunk area was rotten and covered in mold, and the entire bunk area had to be rebuilt - the previous owners must have had a leak up there and it was likely rotten when we bought it. The big problem is that when water gets into the bunk area - there are no drains or ventilation and the water is trapped inside the bunk floor. It took me 5 weeks of working on the bunk to pull the bunk apart and rebuild it, and about $1,000 worth of materials. Thankfully I could do the work myself - I was doing the work outside and I could not work everyday and had to leave the cover on during rain or windy days. It took 2 days to get the plywood veneer unglued/sanded off the fiberglass sheet that is above the cab (bottom of bunk) and get is glued back onto new wood veneer and glue it back to the bottom of the bunk........this was very labor intensive and required a lot of creativity to get supported evenly/flat while the glue set up. The bunk is now better than new as I added more framing and made a better seal between the steel cab roof and bunk bottom - but it as a job I never expected would require me to spend 100+ hours working on! I then drove the RV to RVArmor and spent $6,000 on a sprayed roof so this would never happen to me again - I no longer worry abut a leaky roof!
You two have been doing this for a while now, and when you figure out which RV you want, I’m sure you will make it work. We have been at it 38 years. Started with a very small used class C in 1985, went bigger, bigger, then smaller, then bigger, and so on, until we went to a Class A. We loved the room in it AND the storage space. But last month we downsized to a new 29’ Entegra class C. Definitely not made like our rigs from 15 years ago, but what is. The smaller size takes getting used to, especially lack of storage, but we’ve done it before. It’s just a matter of needs and wants. We’ve purchased used class C’s with water damage. Everything was fixable , even delaminating if you really want to tear into it. It depends on the deal you make and how much YOU can fix. But for those considering ANY RV, PLEASE get an inspection, do your homework and be prepared to spend more than planned. We aren’t trying to dissuade anyone. We LOVE MOTORHOMES and will continue having one as long as possible. Thank you
We had a class C, loved it. The cover on the outside of the front window. Put the cover on the inside of the front window. There’s are little ears that go over the passenger door and the driver door and just turn down your visors to help hold the visor in place. Benefits are it won’t get dirty. If you’re ever in a hostel situation, all you have to do is open the door and take off the ears or just cut it. It’s already on the inside. It’s a good hack.
Our RV was 25 feet. It was perfect. It had a Owens generator the generator don’t work throw it away and put in a generator that uses a remote control. He’ll be just as happy. Unlike a class B the class C has a nice bathroom.
We have a 2022 Thor Freedom Elite 22HE and it's perfect for two adults and three dogs - bought it off a SIX PERSON family who bought it for travel ball and immediately needed to upsize! Can't imagine spending more than a weekend in a smallish class c with more than just a partner.
Beware. Water damage isn't fun. I tried to repair my overhead cab in that very corner. It didn't work. I eventually had to have the overhead area rebuilt. They did a terrible job & now I can only use that area for storage. Also, consider where everyone is going to hang out inside the RV during inclement weather. One dinette isn't comfortable or enough room for everyone. My personal choice would be one that has both a dinette & sofa.
Well, here is a prediction based on previous experience. Don’t buy a C or B or B+. You will not be happy with it. Having lived full-time in 44’ Diesel Pusher for seven years, we built a house and decided we didn’t need a coach at all. Sold my Dutch Star coach. Large mistake. This lasted about one and a half years. We then bought a very nice preowned MB Thor, yes, a Thor and as far as the unit went, we were not unhappy with the quality, not my Newmars but not $400k either. We did several short trips, and all was well. Then we went from South Florida to Frisco Texas (Dallas-Fort Worth) and on to Albany Oregon, then to Greeley Colorado and back to South Florida. That 7k+ mile trip cured us. There was still nothing basically wrong with the coach. Well, yes there were a few things. One is it had a 24 US Gallon fuel tank and yes it got 12 miles per gallon towing a car but that turns into a max of about 250 miles per fill stop. So, we stopped at least twice a day for fuel. That’s a waste of 35 to 40 minutes each stop. So, 300-400-mile days became 8 or more hours instead of six. Also, it had a Murphy bed which seemed like a good thing at first but became a major PIA when on the move for several days at a time. No washer dryer and did I mention my last sailboat had a bigger shower. We now have a Newmar Dutch Star Diesel Pusher once again. The “can’t get into State and National Parks” is over blowen. We just camped outside of the entrance for Yellowstone and drove in every day with our Grand Cherokee. We went to Spearfish South Dakota stayed in a campground there and drove to Mt Rushmore, Crazy Horse, the Badlands, Sturgis and Devils Tower. Each one was an hour or less by car, no parking issues and we returned to the coach every afternoon. Besides all of that, some National and State parks are upgrading to accommodate larger RV’s. 50-amp service, full hook ups and pull throughs for 60 or 70 feet. We just stayed a week in Kingsport TN at Rocky Top Campground & RV Park. This is a state park with a new section for larger motorhome. We just had to dive through two National parks, on the same day, due to the flood damage from Helene on our way back to Florida this past September. Not fun by any means. 30 miles took over an hour. Those roads are not made for motorhomes of any size, period. And besides all that your Great Pyrenees won’t have anyplace to go in that Class C.
Running an engine for a few minutes does more harm than good. Most of the wear on an engine occurs during startup. They key is to make sure the oil in the motor boils off any water it has accumulated. If you don't get the oil warm, the oil will accumulate water, causing even more damage at the next start. Basically, you cause very little additional wear by running it longer, but by conditioning the oil, you are reducing the damage the next start will cause. An oil temp gauge is useful, but if you don't have one, just get the engine as hot as it is in normal operating conditions and run it at least five minutes at full temp. Figure a min operating duration of 10 minutes, 15 is a better target. So run it longer, but run it less frequently. Like once a month.
I also follow two other channels Less Junk more Journey More Journey, and Finding Our Someday and both where testing out a 25 ft Class C. One has 2 younger children and the other has 2 teenagers. Both seemed to be happy with it. It really depends on sleeping arrangements. Have fun.
You want to get one with the fiberglass front , stay away from the trim fronts. It will keep leaking no matter how you fix it….. unless you have the whole front and top sprayed with lifetime roof seal.
We have a 2014 Sunseeker 2860DS for sale! We absolutely love it and went full time after graduate school and traveled to a lot of the spots you recommend. As we welcomed our first child last year, we decided to settle down close to family for a while. Happy to send links to pictures :)
We are an rv repair company and I will tell you all and I mean all every rv and camper trailers leak no matter the year or old or new they all are built so crappy they leak from the start
So fun that we get to see your house hunting. I appreciate your video. I’m thinking “that’s what you can see” regarding the water damage & mold. How do you know that’s all there is? What about what u can’t see? This is a true question I have because I would totally discard anything with water damage, but I also am not educated.
Would highly recommend using an inexpensive, non pin moisture meter to assess for the presence and extent of water intrusion. This can be a very expensive repair leading to a major renovation.
A true professional would either do a smoke or bubble test to find any leaks on an RV. You can do both DIY but the seller may be reluctant for either one.
We just recently found a company here in FL that does a test where they pressurize the inside of the RV and then use a soap solution on the outside to find any leaks. (Video coming soon)
touch every surface. Inside, outside, floor, behind cabinets, roof, and ceiling with a light closed fist. The wooden paneling is plastic covered. You can look and not see anything, but if you have just bounced your fist all along the wall, you will feel the punky wood when you hit it.
Buying an Rv that has 130k miles and mold with rust is a good idea for your family? Do you have any idea how many RVs are out there with flawless conditions and were barely used? Where do you come up with these ideas?
Propane tanks need to come out for recertification not more than 12 years from manufacture of the tank--not the RV. And then every 5th year afterward. Just be aware of those deadlines, if you have rust on that tank it may require replacement. You'll need a propane SERVICE shop.
ASME tanks are permanently mounted on a motor home and never require inspection and recertification. However, if the tank has a lot of rust, especially around the inlet and outlet valves, it should be replaced
My husband and I just purchased our first RV and are first-time RV'ers. Your channel is so very helpful as we prepare to pick the RV up in December. Thanks for being so informative!
If your search continues, the Jayco 24B has a great floor plan and a ton of room and storage inside. Not so much basement space. Terrific for short trips. Good luck with the hunt.
Class B 🎉 kids can tent it. I did it in a VW Westfalia and the kids were in the tent when they got bigger. Especially if they had friends. They had fun having their own space.
So fun that we get to see your house hunting. I appreciate your video. I’m thinking “that’s what you can see” regarding the water damage & mold. How do you know that’s all there is? What about what u can’t see? This is a true question I have because I would totally discard anything with water damage, but I also am not educated.
It doesn’t scare us away completely if the price is right….it could be a lot worse that what can be seems which is why the price would need to account for potential major repairs
*Thank you RV Mattress by Brooklyn Bedding* for sponsoring! Visit rvmattress.com/grateful
to get 30% off your mattress with code grateful
I bought a used Coachman Freelander that had a roof leak very similar to the one in this video. Just a bit of an area where the wallpaper was loose - same as you showed. The roof had been re-sealed and I thought it was fine. I kept track of the roof and resealed anything regularly if it looked "iffy". On a trip to Texas my wife got a drip over her head in the passenger seat whenever we drove in the rain. When we got home I discovered a piece of molding had come loose on the top/side of the front cap. When I got investigating I discovered the plywood on the bunk area was rotten and covered in mold, and the entire bunk area had to be rebuilt - the previous owners must have had a leak up there and it was likely rotten when we bought it. The big problem is that when water gets into the bunk area - there are no drains or ventilation and the water is trapped inside the bunk floor. It took me 5 weeks of working on the bunk to pull the bunk apart and rebuild it, and about $1,000 worth of materials. Thankfully I could do the work myself - I was doing the work outside and I could not work everyday and had to leave the cover on during rain or windy days. It took 2 days to get the plywood veneer unglued/sanded off the fiberglass sheet that is above the cab (bottom of bunk) and get is glued back onto new wood veneer and glue it back to the bottom of the bunk........this was very labor intensive and required a lot of creativity to get supported evenly/flat while the glue set up. The bunk is now better than new as I added more framing and made a better seal between the steel cab roof and bunk bottom - but it as a job I never expected would require me to spend 100+ hours working on! I then drove the RV to RVArmor and spent $6,000 on a sprayed roof so this would never happen to me again - I no longer worry abut a leaky roof!
If you see water damage Just RUN in the other direction Do not buy Trust me WALK AWAY
👍
You two have been doing this for a while now, and when you figure out which RV you want, I’m sure you will make it work.
We have been at it 38 years. Started with a very small used class C in 1985, went bigger, bigger, then smaller, then bigger, and so on, until we went to a Class A. We loved the room in it AND the storage space. But last month we downsized to a new 29’ Entegra class C.
Definitely not made like our rigs from 15 years ago, but what is.
The smaller size takes getting used to, especially lack of storage, but we’ve done it before. It’s just a matter of needs and wants.
We’ve purchased used class C’s with water damage. Everything was fixable , even delaminating if you really want to tear into it. It depends on the deal you make and how much YOU can fix.
But for those considering ANY RV, PLEASE get an inspection, do your homework and be prepared to spend more than planned.
We aren’t trying to dissuade anyone. We LOVE MOTORHOMES and will continue having one as long as possible.
Thank you
Thanks for the great advice, we appreciate you sharing your experience!
We had a class C, loved it. The cover on the outside of the front window. Put the cover on the inside of the front window. There’s are little ears that go over the passenger door and the driver door and just turn down your visors to help hold the visor in place. Benefits are it won’t get dirty. If you’re ever in a hostel situation, all you have to do is open the door and take off the ears or just cut it. It’s already on the inside. It’s a good hack.
Our RV was 25 feet. It was perfect. It had a Owens generator the generator don’t work throw it away and put in a generator that uses a remote control. He’ll be just as happy. Unlike a class B the class C has a nice bathroom.
I liked it, but you should’ve went to panda for lunch
We have a 2022 Thor Freedom Elite 22HE and it's perfect for two adults and three dogs - bought it off a SIX PERSON family who bought it for travel ball and immediately needed to upsize! Can't imagine spending more than a weekend in a smallish class c with more than just a partner.
Beware. Water damage isn't fun. I tried to repair my overhead cab in that very corner.
It didn't work. I eventually had to have the overhead area rebuilt. They did a terrible job & now I can only use that area for storage.
Also, consider where everyone is going to hang out inside the RV during inclement weather.
One dinette isn't comfortable or enough room for everyone.
My personal choice would be one that has both a dinette & sofa.
Well, here is a prediction based on previous experience. Don’t buy a C or B or B+. You will not be happy with it. Having lived full-time in 44’ Diesel Pusher for seven years, we built a house and decided we didn’t need a coach at all. Sold my Dutch Star coach. Large mistake. This lasted about one and a half years. We then bought a very nice preowned MB Thor, yes, a Thor and as far as the unit went, we were not unhappy with the quality, not my Newmars but not $400k either.
We did several short trips, and all was well. Then we went from South Florida to Frisco Texas (Dallas-Fort Worth) and on to Albany Oregon, then to Greeley Colorado and back to South Florida. That 7k+ mile trip cured us.
There was still nothing basically wrong with the coach. Well, yes there were a few things. One is it had a 24 US Gallon fuel tank and yes it got 12 miles per gallon towing a car but that turns into a max of about 250 miles per fill stop. So, we stopped at least twice a day for fuel. That’s a waste of 35 to 40 minutes each stop. So, 300-400-mile days became 8 or more hours instead of six. Also, it had a Murphy bed which seemed like a good thing at first but became a major PIA when on the move for several days at a time. No washer dryer and did I mention my last sailboat had a bigger shower.
We now have a Newmar Dutch Star Diesel Pusher once again. The “can’t get into State and National Parks” is over blowen. We just camped outside of the entrance for Yellowstone and drove in every day with our Grand Cherokee. We went to Spearfish South Dakota stayed in a campground there and drove to Mt Rushmore, Crazy Horse, the Badlands, Sturgis and Devils Tower. Each one was an hour or less by car, no parking issues and we returned to the coach every afternoon. Besides all of that, some National and State parks are upgrading to accommodate larger RV’s. 50-amp service, full hook ups and pull throughs for 60 or 70 feet. We just stayed a week in Kingsport TN at Rocky Top Campground & RV Park. This is a state park with a new section for larger motorhome.
We just had to dive through two National parks, on the same day, due to the flood damage from Helene on our way back to Florida this past September. Not fun by any means. 30 miles took over an hour. Those roads are not made for motorhomes of any size, period.
And besides all that your Great Pyrenees won’t have anyplace to go in that Class C.
Thanks so much for sharing!
Running an engine for a few minutes does more harm than good. Most of the wear on an engine occurs during startup. They key is to make sure the oil in the motor boils off any water it has accumulated. If you don't get the oil warm, the oil will accumulate water, causing even more damage at the next start. Basically, you cause very little additional wear by running it longer, but by conditioning the oil, you are reducing the damage the next start will cause.
An oil temp gauge is useful, but if you don't have one, just get the engine as hot as it is in normal operating conditions and run it at least five minutes at full temp. Figure a min operating duration of 10 minutes, 15 is a better target. So run it longer, but run it less frequently. Like once a month.
Good info - thanks for sharing!
Nope .... look for another, water travels everywhere, mold is the worst and with rot, run away from that one.
I also follow two other channels Less Junk more Journey More Journey, and Finding Our Someday and both where testing out a 25 ft Class C. One has 2 younger children and the other has 2 teenagers. Both seemed to be happy with it. It really depends on sleeping arrangements. Have fun.
Good to know, thanks for sharing!
Good video 😊just saying older rv can have problems with the engine and transmission it was a rental just for starters
Yep, that’s definitely something we need to consider.
Why purchase a rig with obvious (but unknown extent) water damage when there's plenty out there without water damage?
I really don’t know why people don’t cover their RVs or put them under an awning. It’s a big investment and worth protection.
We’re older and looking for a class c so thank you for inspection tips!
Good luck in your search!
Water damage - walk away. Don't buy someone else's problem!
When you start the Cummins Generator, I'm guessing that you need to push the bottom of the start button to activate your glow plugs if it is a Diesel.
Thanks for the tip!
You want to get one with the fiberglass front , stay away from the trim fronts. It will keep leaking no matter how you fix it….. unless you have the whole front and top sprayed with lifetime roof seal.
We have a 2014 Sunseeker 2860DS for sale! We absolutely love it and went full time after graduate school and traveled to a lot of the spots you recommend. As we welcomed our first child last year, we decided to settle down close to family for a while. Happy to send links to pictures :)
Feel free to email us at support@gratefulglamper.com 💙
I see Dakota headed to Inspector school! If he has the skills...use them!
He’s pretty good at knowing what to look for! Thanks for watching
We just replaced the roof on our 30 ft. 2006 Pilgrim RV it cost us $4000. Warranty is for 15 years.
They replaced any rotted wood underneath the roof.
Yep. Hire a professional RV inspector.
We are an rv repair company and I will tell you all and I mean all every rv and camper trailers leak no matter the year or old or new they all are built so crappy they leak from the start
That’s why a great roof is a must!
Can’t believe you’re not hiring an inspector and a mechanic!
So fun that we get to see your house hunting. I appreciate your video. I’m thinking “that’s what you can see” regarding the water damage & mold. How do you know that’s all there is? What about what u can’t see? This is a true question I have because I would totally discard anything with water damage, but I also am not educated.
Good luck on what ever you decide Will you be selling your class A I think i missed that part Have a wonderful day
We’re planning on keeping our class A. This would be an RV for shorter weekend trips and one Charity can feel comfortable parking
Would highly recommend using an inexpensive, non pin moisture meter to assess for the presence and extent of water intrusion. This can be a very expensive repair leading to a major renovation.
Good idea
A true professional would either do a smoke or bubble test to find any leaks on an RV. You can do both DIY but the seller may be reluctant for either one.
We just recently found a company here in FL that does a test where they pressurize the inside of the RV and then use a soap solution on the outside to find any leaks. (Video coming soon)
Did you ask why they are selling? How long they had it? Curious about the year. Also, campground’s ten year age rule. Just curious. Good luck.
Thanks! They are selling because they didn’t end up using it as much as they’d hoped.
touch every surface. Inside, outside, floor, behind cabinets, roof, and ceiling with a light closed fist. The wooden paneling is plastic covered. You can look and not see anything, but if you have just bounced your fist all along the wall, you will feel the punky wood when you hit it.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
A dime a dozen please walk away get the perfect one, no work no water damage same price! Please keep looking!
We rented from Cruise America and couldn't believe the things people do with them.
🫨
Like what?
I learn so much from your channel.
Where is the dog, I haven't seen him in a long time.
He’s been staying back for some of these adventures- he will be back soon!
❤@@GratefulGlamper
Buying an Rv that has 130k miles and mold with rust is a good idea for your family? Do you have any idea how many RVs are out there with flawless conditions and were barely used? Where do you come up with these ideas?
Btw if we were in the market for a new rv id want to have you look it over before.
🎈
NO captured bed.
Did you guys ever find a new road side assistance company?
We ended up going with coach net
Personally, can’t handle those corner beds
Since we’ve never used one, I guess it would be something we’d have to decide if we do or don’t like.
really love your content!
Less leaks in dryer, desert, climates. Try AZ, NV or west TX.
Good suggestion
Propane tanks need to come out for recertification not more than 12 years from manufacture of the tank--not the RV. And then every 5th year afterward.
Just be aware of those deadlines, if you have rust on that tank it may require replacement. You'll need a propane SERVICE shop.
Good to know - thanks for the info!
ASME tanks are permanently mounted on a motor home and never require inspection and recertification. However, if the tank has a lot of rust, especially around the inlet and outlet valves, it should be replaced
I have a great RV for you class C E450 29G Thor Four Winds
Thanks for the suggestion! We are trying to keep the length around 24-25 feet so Charity can easily park it for softball tournaments with our daughter
My husband and I just purchased our first RV and are first-time RV'ers. Your channel is so very helpful as we prepare to pick the RV up in December. Thanks for being so informative!
I'm so excited for you! You're gonna love it!
@, we retire December 31st. We’ve purchased an older class c from a family member of a family member. Thank you for the encouragement!
If your search continues, the Jayco 24B has a great floor plan and a ton of room and storage inside. Not so much basement space. Terrific for short trips. Good luck with the hunt.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I would flat out ask them if they got a quote for the water damage. If anyone says they didn't know it was there, say thanks and walk away.
The rust is surface rust. Its nothing. Paint it.
Good to know!
@@GratefulGlamper agreed that's not rust, you will see surface and flash rust on brand new vehicles with raw metals.
❤❤❤❤❤
💙
Class B 🎉 kids can tent it. I did it in a VW Westfalia and the kids were in the tent when they got bigger. Especially if they had friends. They had fun having their own space.
Good idea!
👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You won’t like the 3/4 bed. I just rid of ours. I hated ours. Yes ours was a former cruise America.
Good to know!
First mistake was buying a used rv 😂
work on your editing you show the same footage 2-3x.
So fun that we get to see your house hunting. I appreciate your video. I’m thinking “that’s what you can see” regarding the water damage & mold. How do you know that’s all there is? What about what u can’t see? This is a true question I have because I would totally discard anything with water damage, but I also am not educated.
It doesn’t scare us away completely if the price is right….it could be a lot worse that what can be seems which is why the price would need to account for potential major repairs