Thanks much for taking the time to make these videos. Your great attitude and explanations are the reason my daughter and I watch your videos before trying to figure out how to do something on our '68. Your "Pumpkin" build is what first inspired us to take on a father daughter project in the first place. Keep up the great work!
@@VinylVillageGarage I'm way down in Jacksonville, Florida. Much better weather down here. If you ever make a road trip to Disney, swing on by for some excellent local food.
I'd enjoy being your neighbor! I've never heard of anyone test running the motor like this. Excellent idea! You get to check everything all at once. I have gained lots of knowledge from you. My favorite video of yours is the one about using the long level on the un-level floor. I gotta believe that most folks don't have a frame jig. All your videos are very helpful. Thank you so much for sharing! God bless.
Glad to help! As for the level system it really works and now this car is all assembled i did some measuring and now i think about it i will add it to a video. The measurements from the rocker to axle is exactly the same side to side so no dog tracking on this bird and then all around the car the ride height is less then 1/8” difference side to side from various body point and lines. I feel that is as good or better then factory. Thus proving you can get excellent results without have a frame table or body jig
I like the test stand. When it comes time to assemble the car to completion, rolling the completed subframe and engine combo under the body will be almost seamless.
My 67 Lemans has a kick down switch on the firewall, tripped by the gas pedal. I don't know about Firebirds. However, Edelbrock and B&M make a kick down switch kit, that mounts at the carb for the TH400. Glad to see your trans spin, still waiting to test mine.
Firebird factory did a switch on the carb and they are not reproduce and originals are spendy. Like you mentioned there is aftermarket versions available at a fair price that attach to the carb and I will most likely go that way.
Really cool video I love the attention to all the details in the engine bay And really nice to see the transmission going into gears Now that I know I have a buddy that knows how to build th 400 transmission I will be sending you one in the mail soon
I have wiper wires identified, all 5 of them. Those two loose ones I believe one might be for the kick down solenoid switch. I have yet to dig into that.
I would gladly be your neighbor😎. As much as it’s too bad you’re having issues. That’s how I learn how to fix things. I appreciate you sharing the good and the bad. Nice wiring harness too.
Back in the summer of 2012, it was over 100 degrees here. My '68 was running around 220 or more on an aftermarket heat guage I put in back in 2003. I tried several thermostats, I had the radiator cored, nothing helped. Ran great, the guage was hot. Somebody suggested a new guage. The first one I put in had developed scale on it, making it read hot. Thanjs for explaining stuff in your videos, I do learn from them!!
Interesting! Those weird things happen. Good to know your engine wasn’t running hot. I don’t have a temp gauge yet, I just went with the heater core hose bouncing and when I shut it off it puked coolant. I have since installed a new radiator and all is gooder now.
FMG has a perfect FIX for our Pontiac V8 typical running HOT heating issues. His trick Lowers temps about 30 degrees and makes the engine run uniformly cooler too. It’s a simple house re-route configure. Might look at it, it’s well worth the time to realize that the gains are. "Pontiac Head Cooling Trick - Heater Hose Myth?"
Bummer on the intake gaskets being wrong but that's things you run into. Id say the radiator is probably plugged up and not doing it's job. You could setup a separate fan blowing in front of the radiator to help cool like some do, but a proper working complete cooling system shouldn't need it. Seeing Mockingbird in this stage makes me wish I had the time and $$$$ to work on my 67 400. Won't be long and you'll hit that 10k subscribers👍
Fortunately the intake gaskets were an easy swap and no damage to the paint. And a new radiator solved the getting hot issue. All in all very happy with the test run.
Love all the crappy open electrical connectors they used to use. Not, LOL. Couple of drives in the rain over a few years and they start to build up resistance.
Interesting on how designs change to keep weather out, I feel maybe these old cars they felt it might last for 5 years and didn’t think it would live long enough to be an issue…….so 50 years later hooray electrical gremlins and voltage drops for everyone
@@VinylVillageGarage Yes, I have noticed that all the various lights on my Firebird are different levels of dim/weak. If I start cleaning connectors they all improve. The thing I really don't like are those crude printed circuit boards for the dash. I can't remember what's in the firebird but I see the same thing in my 2000 Case 580 backhoe. It's basically some copper tracks printed on a single layer piece of plastic and all the plugs for the gauges and lights make connections by touching on the exposed copper. It's such cheap and nasty way of creating the connections and is prone to failure. I also don't like using the chassis for ground return. I feel that all connector should have a ground return wire. I think newer cars are like that but I can't remember. I don't have electrical problems with newer cars (surprise) so I haven't debugged problems with the wiring so I can't remember how it's done.
@@stevenpringle7813 I add ground wires to the dash and light bulb sockets, It requires some soldering but huge improvements over relying on just the body grounds thru all the body panels. Especially on tail lights. My GTO was the worst about those.
Some days it be like that! But hey, at least the engine fired up, sounds good and your transmission works! I appreciate you showing us not only the good but also the bad, wether it be a mistake you made, a mistake someone else made or just bad luck. Its all part of the journey. Hopefully you take us along and show us the fixes!
The gaskets should be the tall opening for 1969 intake and heads……so a guy used the short ones and well that don’t work. That guy would be me I don’t know why I did that, I know better. It was an easy fix
the parts place has after market kickdown switch available think you can get with mounting bracket also need bracket that mounts to carb linkage to trigger it also available
You’d hate me as your neighbor! I’d be over asking a million questions, or you’d find my 68 in your garage! In high school my neighbor beh8nd me had a 79 Trans Am that we put a new motor in and started it up at 1 am with open headers!! Yea, we weren’t the nicest people! The group of friends we ran with back then all had loud cars! We had 2 5.0 mustangs, 2 79 Tans Ams, 1 Grand National, 3 Camaros, 1 GTO, 1 Chevelle. We were very loud! lol We would meet up every Friday and head to Englishtown to drag race!
Yes that first black white plug would go to the idle solinoid. the two black connectors go to the transmission kickdown switch. The bracket on the valve cover is a new one for me. Was that 69 only thing? I feel your pain on the other issues. Great episode.
Thanks! I was guessing the wires had to do with the kick down. I have yet to mess with a first gen bird with a th400 transmission. So only adding to my experience The bracket has only been on the 1969 birds but it was also on my 1969 GTO so maybe something they started then.
Remove all the center guts out of the thermostat, just install the old outer ring back in as a restrictor to slow the water flow and stop adjusting the water. This trick works in all my GM old cars. Very common fix for overheating.
Yup you are correct, the older cars had a thermostatic spring later years it was a rubber restrictor. It has to have some resistance to flow. This car still has the spring type.
We need to start a “hedge fund” for the neighbors. Tower clamps! I hated them, but they look great here. You are making all the other cars look like garbage. I suspected the radiator from the beginning. I assumed a remanufactured unit was messed up. Is it full of leak stop?
Tower clamps present their challenges for sure but I like the look for this build. The radiator was originally in this car and it did ok, I had it cleaned and hoped for the best but the 400 must make a bit more heat.
Yes they make a cover that fits right on top and gives the appearance of the r59 energizer battery. I used one on the last Car I did and very happy with it
The harness was produced By American auto wire very happy with it. Air trapped in older cars isn’t nearly as common as a modern vehicle. The radiator ended up being the issue. I put a new one in and all is good
Just a question, Jon, because I don't know. Will it pull enough air flow across the radiator to cool with it being so open and no fan in front of the radiator?
You are on to something I see people put fans in front for additional air flow and it’s not a bad idea. In this case the radiator was partially plugged up. It did ok with the 350 engine but not good enough with the 400. I have since replaced the radiator and worked great now.
@VinylVillageGarage Good to hear. That was a great thought you had by touching different parts of the radiator for heat signature. I learned something new, as I always do watching ya. Thanks
@@bigbrian2486 no tach, break in is approx 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes and occasionally increasing the rpm to change the oil splashing. There is many opinions on break in RPM. What everway you decide The goal is to keep oil splashing around on different areas of the cam so maintaining the exact RPM isn’t ideal some fluctuations are good.
Need some help if you can. Tried to do the cam break in on my 68 bird but all it does is crank crank crank. I have verified that it’s getting spark and fuel, but still nada. Doesn’t sound like it’s even trying to run. Obviously I’d love to be your neighbor
It would be cool to be neighbors! Let’s start here the shop teacher told us you need 4 things for an engine to run- suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Not sure why the shop teacher used those words with a room full of teenagers?🤷♂️ but I never forgot for some reason 😉. You have some of those parts. Spark and fuel is important. But you need squeeze. And bang at the right time. Compression test would tell us something 120psi ish would be good. Also verify your distributor is timed right. Was it install at Cyl 1 TDC compression stroke?. One of the most common reasons a new engine won’t fire is distributor 180 out of time. But you normally get a pop and bang that way. You are not from what I understand. I guess start with verify timing and compression that will tell us a lot. It’s even possible all the valves are partially open, factory Pontiac valve train isn’t adjustable, if the block was decked, heads milled, thinner head gasket, wrong valves you could have valves open thus causing no compression then of course no start. Please let me know what you find out
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the thorough answer! Honestly, I just tossed the distributor back in Willy nilly, so who know where it is timing wise. That sounds like the best place to start. Newbie mistake on my part. Been wrenching on cars (mostly deloreans) for the last 18 years but all of this is fairly new to me. Never had to deal with a rebuilt engine before.
@@VinylVillageGarage Watched a vid on how to install a distributor on a Chevy 350, I figure it’s identical to a Pontiac 350. Find TDC, put the distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1, then rotate the crank until the distributor drops into the oil pump shaft and seats completely. Is that about right?
@@browser90 almost, not just TDC but TDC compression. Additionally Then the distributor rotates counter clockwise on a Pontiac and Chevrolet is clockwise
@@VinylVillageGarage Go view FMG water return hose reroute, what affect it has on our Pontiacs. Rather amazingly simple yet So very helpful affective on temps. Called “Pontiac head cooling trick”. He does a great short tutorial showing temp specs and cause of his simple task. Like a 30 degree Lower temp control and significantly more affective water recirc from it!! Best 16 minutes any Pontiac owner will ever listen to! Every Pontiac engine needs it IMO. Also, Put a vacuum gauge on the intake see what it's reading. I always timed and tuned mine with one on it for MAX Hg.
I watched the video, interesting how much the restriction made A difference on the temps. I know you can’t run without a thermostat or restrictor plate because it will overheat. Works on the same principle, Not that i recommend trying this but a flat top stove move your hand across it very very quickly it won’t burn because it doesn’t have time to absorb heat. I also like the idea of cooling the drivers side head. Thanks for sharing
Thanks much for taking the time to make these videos. Your great attitude and explanations are the reason my daughter and I watch your videos before trying to figure out how to do something on our '68. Your "Pumpkin" build is what first inspired us to take on a father daughter project in the first place. Keep up the great work!
Very cool, best wishes on your project, keep me posted on your progress too. How close to Indianapolis are you?
@@VinylVillageGarage I'm way down in Jacksonville, Florida. Much better weather down here. If you ever make a road trip to Disney, swing on by for some excellent local food.
@@t.daxmallory2307 no doubt the weather is much better there. And I will take you up on that offer.
You are really good at walking thru the scary wiring. Best video I have seen yet. I wish you were my neighbour and help me with my 71 chevelle.
I helped a friend with his 72 chevelle did all the metal work. Still looks good too. It was 20 years ago
I'd enjoy being your neighbor! I've never heard of anyone test running the motor like this. Excellent idea! You get to check everything all at once. I have gained lots of knowledge from you. My favorite video of yours is the one about using the long level on the un-level floor. I gotta believe that most folks don't have a frame jig. All your videos are very helpful. Thank you so much for sharing! God bless.
Glad to help! As for the level system it really works and now this car is all assembled i did some measuring and now i think about it i will add it to a video. The measurements from the rocker to axle is exactly the same side to side so no dog tracking on this bird and then all around the car the ride height is less then 1/8” difference side to side from various body point and lines. I feel that is as good or better then factory. Thus proving you can get excellent results without have a frame table or body jig
I wouldn't mind being your neighbor, but it is to cold where you live.Great video.
I bet Florida is definitely nicer than here.
Thanks for posting even if things don't go right. We learn. Everyone seems to edit or not post hiccups.
Things happen, I have learned so much from things not going as planned definitely has helped make me better so I don’t mind things that don’t go well.
My dream car is a 67-68 firebird. Gotta restore my father's 63 c10 first before I get one. I'm about halfway finished with it.
Very cool, hopefully you can get to building that dream soon.
I like the test stand. When it comes time to assemble the car to completion, rolling the completed subframe and engine combo under the body will be almost seamless.
I agree and I also have some run time on all the systems and can inspect for leaks or other issues before final install.
I think if we were neighbors we would be in trouble all the time. Haha.
Trouble maybe…..🤣. Fun most definitely
My 67 Lemans has a kick down switch on the firewall, tripped by the gas pedal. I don't know about Firebirds. However, Edelbrock and B&M make a kick down switch kit, that mounts at the carb for the TH400. Glad to see your trans spin, still waiting to test mine.
Firebird factory did a switch on the carb and they are not reproduce and originals are spendy. Like you mentioned there is aftermarket versions available at a fair price that attach to the carb and I will most likely go that way.
Sonnax and Trans-go are great resources for transmission needs.
Right on thanks!
Nice job Jon,sucks with the exhaust and temp setback but hey better to find out now than later. Great video show what happens during a build.
Fortunately they were both easy fixes and we are doing good now.
I'd block off those crossovers , too much heat under the carb in those ol rides. 😎👍 looks beautiful btw! 🤟
I would have blocked it off but I used factory crossover heat to operate the choke. Like it was from factory on this one
Really cool video I love the attention to all the details in the engine bay And really nice to see the transmission going into gears Now that I know I have a buddy that knows how to build th 400 transmission I will be sending you one in the mail soon
Well I am no expert on transmission but I do feel a lot better about it going into gear.
I believe those two black wires that were back by the coil go to the motor for the windshield wiper.
I have wiper wires identified, all 5 of them. Those two loose ones I believe one might be for the kick down solenoid switch. I have yet to dig into that.
Good thorough video Jon
Thanks happy to hear it run and see the transmission engage
I usa a vacuume test and fill tool removes any and all air pockets , one of my best tool ivestments
I have seen those. They are a must for modern cars.
Bummer but if life was perfect we would let you sing in your video's 👍👍
Trust me you don’t want me to sing. I am good at a lot of things but singing wasn’t a gift for me. Lol
@@VinylVillageGarage 😂😂👍
I would gladly be your neighbor😎. As much as it’s too bad you’re having issues. That’s how I learn how to fix things. I appreciate you sharing the good and the bad. Nice wiring harness too.
You are spot on these challenges we can learn so much from them and it only makes it easier in the future
Back in the summer of 2012, it was over 100 degrees here. My '68 was running around 220 or more on an aftermarket heat guage I put in back in 2003. I tried several thermostats, I had the radiator cored, nothing helped. Ran great, the guage was hot. Somebody suggested a new guage. The first one I put in had developed scale on it, making it read hot.
Thanjs for explaining stuff in your videos, I do learn from them!!
Interesting! Those weird things happen. Good to know your engine wasn’t running hot. I don’t have a temp gauge yet, I just went with the heater core hose bouncing and when I shut it off it puked coolant. I have since installed a new radiator and all is gooder now.
FMG has a perfect FIX for our Pontiac V8 typical running HOT heating issues. His trick Lowers temps about 30 degrees and makes the engine run uniformly cooler too. It’s a simple house re-route configure.
Might look at it, it’s well worth the time to realize that the gains are.
"Pontiac Head Cooling Trick - Heater Hose Myth?"
Bummer on the intake gaskets being wrong but that's things you run into. Id say the radiator is probably plugged up and not doing it's job. You could setup a separate fan blowing in front of the radiator to help cool like some do, but a proper working complete cooling system shouldn't need it. Seeing Mockingbird in this stage makes me wish I had the time and $$$$ to work on my 67 400. Won't be long and you'll hit that 10k subscribers👍
Fortunately the intake gaskets were an easy swap and no damage to the paint. And a new radiator solved the getting hot issue. All in all very happy with the test run.
Love all the crappy open electrical connectors they used to use. Not, LOL. Couple of drives in the rain over a few years and they start to build up resistance.
Interesting on how designs change to keep weather out, I feel maybe these old cars they felt it might last for 5 years and didn’t think it would live long enough to be an issue…….so 50 years later hooray electrical gremlins and voltage drops for everyone
@@VinylVillageGarage Yes, I have noticed that all the various lights on my Firebird are different levels of dim/weak. If I start cleaning connectors they all improve. The thing I really don't like are those crude printed circuit boards for the dash. I can't remember what's in the firebird but I see the same thing in my 2000 Case 580 backhoe. It's basically some copper tracks printed on a single layer piece of plastic and all the plugs for the gauges and lights make connections by touching on the exposed copper. It's such cheap and nasty way of creating the connections and is prone to failure. I also don't like using the chassis for ground return. I feel that all connector should have a ground return wire. I think newer cars are like that but I can't remember. I don't have electrical problems with newer cars (surprise) so I haven't debugged problems with the wiring so I can't remember how it's done.
@@stevenpringle7813 I add ground wires to the dash and light bulb sockets,
It requires some soldering but huge improvements over relying on just the body grounds thru all the body panels. Especially on tail lights. My GTO was the worst about those.
Some days it be like that! But hey, at least the engine fired up, sounds good and your transmission works! I appreciate you showing us not only the good but also the bad, wether it be a mistake you made, a mistake someone else made or just bad luck. Its all part of the journey. Hopefully you take us along and show us the fixes!
The journey dosent always go as planned or expected but those challenges only
Make us better for the next time a speed bump pops up on the way.
I had that same intake gasket problem also .you'll get it right🙂
The gaskets should be the tall opening for 1969 intake and heads……so a guy used the short ones and well that don’t work. That guy would be me I don’t know why I did that, I know better. It was an easy fix
John very amazing vlog sir!! The power of commin sense is very good!! Take your time and get it right!!👍🏽
Thank you, I will. Things don’t always go as planned but the challenges keep it fun and real.
the parts place has after market kickdown switch available think you can get with mounting bracket also need bracket that mounts to carb linkage to trigger it also available
I just found it like $45, thanks
You’d hate me as your neighbor! I’d be over asking a million questions, or you’d find my 68 in your garage! In high school my neighbor beh8nd me had a 79 Trans Am that we put a new motor in and started it up at 1 am with open headers!! Yea, we weren’t the nicest people! The group of friends we ran with back then all had loud cars! We had 2 5.0 mustangs, 2 79 Tans Ams, 1 Grand National, 3 Camaros, 1 GTO, 1 Chevelle. We were very loud! lol We would meet up every Friday and head to Englishtown to drag race!
All sound good to me, we had a group of 5.0 mustangs, Monte Carlo, my Firebird all drag racing, on the weekends. We thought they were fast for sure.
Love it ! 😍
Me too
Great video Jon, let us know what you find out with the heating up issue.
It was the radiator. Hoped
To salvage it because it was an original Harrison unit. I have a new one in and works great now.
Yes that first black white plug would go to the idle solinoid. the two black connectors go to the transmission kickdown switch. The bracket on the valve cover is a new one for me. Was that 69 only thing? I feel your pain on the other issues. Great episode.
Thanks! I was guessing the wires had to do with the kick down. I have yet to mess with a first gen bird with a th400 transmission. So only adding to my experience
The bracket has only been on the 1969 birds but it was also on my 1969 GTO so maybe something they started then.
Remove all the center guts out of the thermostat, just install the old outer ring back in as a restrictor to slow the water flow and stop adjusting the water. This trick works in all my GM old cars. Very common fix for overheating.
I have debated that, especially on a car that you won’t need heat for any winter driving.
This Bird progressing quickly!
Thanks! I see a test drive in the very near future sitting on a bag of sand.
@@VinylVillageGarage
Freaking Awesome!!!!!
Could you possibly have air in the system..???....good content and thanks..🔧👍
Possibly.
Set your timing too, that should allow it to cool down some
That could help too. thanks
my understanding the piece that presses into head for heater core feed has heat limiting coil in it just throwing it out there
Yup you are correct, the older cars had a thermostatic spring later years it was a rubber restrictor. It has to have some resistance to flow. This car still has the spring type.
It's the Radiator
Yes it was. Got a new radiator and all is gooder now
Would love to be your neighbor.
Deal! That would be amazing a neighborhood full of car people.
We need to start a “hedge fund” for the neighbors. Tower clamps! I hated them, but they look great here. You are making all the other cars look like garbage. I suspected the radiator from the beginning. I assumed a remanufactured unit was messed up. Is it full of leak stop?
Tower clamps present their challenges for sure but I like the look for this build. The radiator was originally in this car and it did ok, I had it cleaned and hoped for the best but the 400 must make a bit more heat.
Good job, engine sounds great.
With all these little details, are going to be able to find a factory correct or correct era battery??
Yes they make a cover that fits right on top and gives the appearance of the r59 energizer battery. I used one on the last
Car I did and very happy with it
possible wire to brake switch near master cylinder
I think I am going with the switch the parts place sells.
💪😎
Thanks!
My money is on the radiator
Yup you are correct. it looked fine and worked ok with the 350 but just couldn’t cut it with the 400.
What wire harness did you use. Also could the over heat issue just be air in the system ?
The harness was produced By American auto wire very happy with it. Air trapped in older cars isn’t nearly as common as a modern vehicle. The radiator ended up being the issue. I put a new one in and all is good
I've been reading about oil filter brands. How did you decide on the Wix filter?
Couple reasons, I like wix and it was the only brand the part store had in stock for a Pontiac.
What's the part number for the engine transmission wires
Fb97468a it is correct for a factory 1969 400 engine car with internally regulated alternator.
I’d be your neighbour anytime mint
Right on!!
Neighbour anytime
Heck yeah! I need to move to a bigger neighborhood with bigger garages 😎
Just a question, Jon, because I don't know. Will it pull enough air flow across the radiator to cool with it being so open and no fan in front of the radiator?
You are on to something I see people put fans in front for additional air flow and it’s not a bad idea. In this case the radiator was partially plugged up. It did ok with the 350 engine but not good enough with the 400. I have since replaced the radiator and worked great now.
@VinylVillageGarage Good to hear. That was a great thought you had by touching different parts of the radiator for heat signature. I learned something new, as I always do watching ya. Thanks
@brianriggin4560 right on, I do like the idea of these videos helping.
Are you running a tach during the break in? To be able to see the rpm’s.
@@bigbrian2486 no tach, break in is approx 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes and occasionally increasing the rpm to change the oil splashing. There is many opinions on break in RPM. What everway you decide The goal is to keep oil splashing around on different areas of the cam so maintaining the exact RPM isn’t ideal some fluctuations are good.
Need some help if you can. Tried to do the cam break in on my 68 bird but all it does is crank crank crank. I have verified that it’s getting spark and fuel, but still nada. Doesn’t sound like it’s even trying to run. Obviously I’d love to be your neighbor
It would be cool to be neighbors! Let’s start here the shop teacher told us you need 4 things for an engine to run- suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Not sure why the shop teacher used those words with a room full of teenagers?🤷♂️ but I never forgot for some reason 😉.
You have some of those parts. Spark and fuel is important. But you need squeeze. And bang at the right time. Compression test would tell us something 120psi ish would be good. Also verify your distributor is timed right. Was it install at Cyl 1 TDC compression stroke?. One of the most common reasons a new engine won’t fire is distributor 180 out of time. But you normally get a pop and bang that way. You are not from what I understand. I guess start with verify timing and compression that will tell us a lot. It’s even possible all the valves are partially open, factory Pontiac valve train isn’t adjustable, if the block was decked, heads milled, thinner head gasket, wrong valves you could have valves open thus causing no compression then of course no start. Please let me know what you find out
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the thorough answer! Honestly, I just tossed the distributor back in Willy nilly, so who know where it is timing wise. That sounds like the best place to start. Newbie mistake on my part. Been wrenching on cars (mostly deloreans) for the last 18 years but all of this is fairly new to me. Never had to deal with a rebuilt engine before.
@browser90 that is a great place to start. As long as the firing order is correct you could just keep rotating the distributor until it starts too.
@@VinylVillageGarage Watched a vid on how to install a distributor on a Chevy 350, I figure it’s identical to a Pontiac 350. Find TDC, put the distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1, then rotate the crank until the distributor drops into the oil pump shaft and seats completely. Is that about right?
@@browser90 almost, not just TDC but TDC compression. Additionally Then the distributor rotates counter clockwise on a Pontiac and Chevrolet is clockwise
think you need 2 wires to kickdown
Yes it needs a 12v source in then out to the solenoid in the transmission
who makes the new wire harness
This one was produced by American auto wire. Purchased from the PARTS PLACE I really like it.
have looked at Flowcooler water pumps
@@user-ie3xu8gi7o I have seen them and supposedly they make one for 1969 too. The shorter version
@@VinylVillageGarage Can you give the part number to that harness? Thank you.
@@tommyspencer7891 are you building a 400 car with internal regulated alternator or 350 car with external regulated
The radiator goes STRAIGHT to Mac’s radiator shop for a 4 core replacement!
Don't do anythg else till then.
I agree, the radiator is already out of there
@@VinylVillageGarage Go view FMG water return hose reroute, what affect it has on our Pontiacs. Rather amazingly simple yet So very helpful affective on temps.
Called “Pontiac head cooling trick”.
He does a great short tutorial showing temp specs and cause of his simple task. Like a 30 degree Lower temp control and significantly more affective water recirc from it!!
Best 16 minutes any Pontiac owner will ever listen to! Every Pontiac engine needs it IMO.
Also, Put a vacuum gauge on the intake see what it's reading. I always timed and tuned mine with one on it for MAX Hg.
@@yafois988 will do, I have some studying to do thanks
@@VinylVillageGarage
Awesome a person that can learn!
I’ll look for round two here and see what's your take on things..
Following this ..
I watched the video, interesting how much the restriction made
A difference on the temps. I know you can’t run without a thermostat or restrictor plate because it will overheat. Works on the same principle,
Not that i recommend trying this but a flat top stove move your hand across it very very quickly it won’t burn because it doesn’t have time to absorb heat. I also like the idea of cooling the drivers side head. Thanks for sharing