I don’t know why you can’t bench bleed a master but you can do it either way you want. I prefer to bench bleed that way when I mount the cylinder I only have to bleed the air out of the brakes.
Hey man! Just watched both parts to your conversion videos. Cool series. Which dual master cylinder and proportion valve did you buy? I’m planning to do a front disc conversion on my 66 c10. But am mainly only finding dual master cylinders with power booster. But I’m looking for non power booster just like yours. Let me know! Thank you
Charlie you didn't use a,power booster tank on this change ,I bought the set with the booster now !,on spindle ball joints ,go from there ,Hey bud another good Video your really good at these videos love them Thanks for sharing, hey I have extra front grill and nose that's not rusted if you ever need just let me ,going to just put in my shed out back. Love to see go to some good use
I wanted to stick with manual brakes. It stops pretty easy without the booster. Thanks for all the comments and compliments. I really appreciate it. As far as the grill and nose, what do you mean by nose? I don’t need anything but I wouldn’t mind having some extra parts.
Flaring your own lines is easy once you get the hang of it. Get a flaring tool and a 2' piece of steel line from any parts store and practice 20 times if necessary. Get a mini tubing cutter at any lowes or home depot they sell for $5 for cutting 1/2" copper pipe. Dont hacksaw it
I want to get the eastwood flaring tool someday but they are a little pricey. I already have a tubing bending and cutter. The only other tools I would need is a deburring tools and a tubing straightener.
Yes I ordered all copper nickel rubbing and make my own buy a,whole of brake fittings on amazon ,then I have bender since iam a plumber, double flared them and it was cheaper & easy
Cpp makes a disc brake conversion kit with standard or drop spindles. It comes with everything but no hard lines. They do make a front hard line kit for disc brake which is what I used
I see somwhere, your not suppoaed to bench bleed it but to bleed it while its installed on the truck. What is the reason?
I don’t know why you can’t bench bleed a master but you can do it either way you want. I prefer to bench bleed that way when I mount the cylinder I only have to bleed the air out of the brakes.
Hey man! Just watched both parts to your conversion videos. Cool series.
Which dual master cylinder and proportion valve did you buy? I’m planning to do a front disc conversion on my 66 c10. But am mainly only finding dual master cylinders with power booster. But I’m looking for non power booster just like yours. Let me know! Thank you
Thanks for your support. The master is M-C100-L and the prop valve is PVKS-APVDB.
@@Chickeneyegarage Thank you, appreciate it man!
Charlie you didn't use a,power booster tank on this change ,I bought the set with the booster now !,on spindle ball joints ,go from there ,Hey bud another good Video your really good at these videos love them Thanks for sharing, hey I have extra front grill and nose that's not rusted if you ever need just let me ,going to just put in my shed out back. Love to see go to some good use
I wanted to stick with manual brakes. It stops pretty easy without the booster. Thanks for all the comments and compliments. I really appreciate it. As far as the grill and nose, what do you mean by nose? I don’t need anything but I wouldn’t mind having some extra parts.
love the details of the brake lines!!!
Thanks
send a link of kit you have
Charlie what part no was your pitman arm ,mines a,K-6131 and don't seem to be the right one !,please advice me
From classicperform.com it’s FA694
Mine was included in the kit so it’s probably the same one.
Great inspirational video, keep up the great work and videos
Flaring your own lines is easy once you get the hang of it. Get a flaring tool and a 2' piece of steel line from any parts store and practice 20 times if necessary. Get a mini tubing cutter at any lowes or home depot they sell for $5 for cutting 1/2" copper pipe. Dont hacksaw it
I want to get the eastwood flaring tool someday but they are a little pricey. I already have a tubing bending and cutter. The only other tools I would need is a deburring tools and a tubing straightener.
what was the part number to the brakle line kit and master cylinder/ valve? looking to do the same but summit has sent me the wrong parts.
Yes I ordered all copper nickel rubbing and make my own buy a,whole of brake fittings on amazon ,then I have bender since iam a plumber, double flared them and it was cheaper & easy
What kit did you order? Looking to do the same thing to my 65, but can’t find a kit with the brake lines.
Cpp makes a disc brake conversion kit with standard or drop spindles. It comes with everything but no hard lines. They do make a front hard line kit for disc brake which is what I used
Any reason why you didn’t go with a brake booster?
Cleaner looking without the booster in my opinion