Hello I've seen some people reply that they installed "the Part" and it worked. But there are two parts in your video and that Solenoid looks hard to get to if you don't have a lift. Is this something that can be fixed with just the purge valve replacement? Or do you have to do both parts?
Have a 2019 Ford Escape 2.0L - Had Code "P0456 Evaporative Emissions System Small Leak Detected" replaced the Canister Purge valve with the one you linked in your comments. The "Dorman OE FIX Canister Purge Valve 913-430" and fixed the problem. Took less than 30 min to replace. This is much better than replacing the entire EVAP harness! Thanks for the video! Saved a trip and $$$$$$ at the dealership. After cutting the old one out I did a valve pressure check and the old canister purge valve was leaking by and not seating like it should. The new one had no leak by. Thanks again!
Will keep subscription w your channel,& hope 🙏 don't have additional repair issues. Know transmission have issues.From what little known RECOMMENDED FLUID CHANGE IS 36K MILES ? Would rather b safe than sorry later......".Thanks Again" ,I'm the Ole Shade Tree Mechanic (Really a total dummy for late model stuff)
I literally replaced the whole assembly on my wife's car Friday. I didn't remove the upper cowl or the airbox. I simply removed the intake hose and a couple extra fittings. Took me maybe 30min to do the whole thing and it was the first time I've done one. Fellas, this hurt to watch. Not gonna lie.
I would also like to add that I had looked at doing the same repair yall did but we needed the car back up as soon as possible and no one had it. I'm glad I went with the assembly though because there was a lot of oil residue in the tubes and other valves/filters in the assembly. Her car is a 2015 with 112k miles. Just something to think about if anyone else has the issue and is questioning going cheap or doing the whole assembly
I also looked at mine and don’t have to remove any thing, I have the 1.6L that must be the difference between the 1.6L and the 2.0L…. Still like to watch videos like this
@@HomeOwnerRepair this helped me work on my sisters car and got it fixed in less then an hour. She thought she would need to replace the whole e vap system. This part took care of the issue
Missing from the instructions is that the rubber tube near the air box does not just pull off. You need to loosen the 8 mm clamp that is underneath the tube. I did the job without removing the air box. No problem. Solved the problem. Was confused about the removal of the solenoid underneath the car. Totally unnecessary. Got the valve from Rock Auto for $30. Great fix.
thank you for watching our auto repair video that shows you how to tackle the Ford Escape running rough issue after you fill your car up. Have a great day!
I just replaced the purge valve on my wife’s 2013 Escape. I only replaced the valve and used the quick connectors that came with it. Hopefully this solves the problem
Hi, I was wondering if it’s going to work on 2014 ford Escape 1.6 ltr engine. Because I saw it online where it say’s doesn’t match with your vehicle but the part looks exactly same as shown in the video
The rear canister vent solenoid a miserable part to replace on an AWD version. On the FWD, it's like a 10 min job to do the whole canister that includes the box and valve pre-inserted into the box. For anyone doing this on something similar to the 2013 2.0L AWD, I recommend replacing the box w/valve pre-inserted as seen here there is like zero access to the valve and you basically have to take the entire rear off on the AWD. Dorman and Standard sell the valve and box together usually cheaper than the valve itself (no idea why). Recommend driving it up on ramps, or jack standing the rear but you could probably do it without either if you're skinny. Steps are: Take of the shield w/10mm socket. Disconnect the quick connect lines (pull locking tabs out, push in tab and pull off connection) and push them out of the way (above the canister) to get a little more working room. Disconnect the rubber hose next to the solenoid using a flat head screw driver/pry tool, Gently push up the bottom tab (closest to ground) that connects the box to the canister body to release the clip. Once the bottom clip is out, you can wiggle it out of the top clip. Spin the box so the wire terminal is visible to you and push in on the clip and pull off. Finagle the box out of the hole you're working in and reverse the steps for install. Wire Connector, Rubber hose, push/wedge/curse until you hear the clicks of BOTH tabs locking the whole unit into place, put the quick connects back on (white on bottom). Sanity check the solenoid valve is in the further most counter clockwise position (to remove it, you would spin ~1/4" clock wise and pull, so you want it locked back in. Put the shield back on. Go drive it like you rented it and be like me and choose not to buy another Escape...
Thank you for the added tips for our viewers, it is greatly appreciated. Hope this video helped to guide you through your auto repair. Have a great day!
The part you guys put on beside the gas tank is called what.. another thing do I have to change out the purge valve and the second part you guys put on or can I just install the purge valve
I just got code P0451 it says Fuel Tank Pressure sensor? Car isn’t running rough or anything yet. Different problem? Also is both those parts you listed needed?
Did this exact repair a couple of months or so ago on my wife's 2014 Escape. Yesterday she gets code P0171 (Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1). I'm wondering if one of those snap in connectors for the hose could have come loose and is letting in air causing the lean condition? Great video by the way.
Hey guys saw your video that you can just change the purge valve vs the whole assembly and was stoked, but I can not find one that says fits my vehicle that looks like what you removed. 2014 1.6l I tried your link and it said that didn't fit my vehicle thanx in advance
I have a 20 14 Ford escape an every time I drive it and make a sharp turn it start jerking and down get that much speed it's in my mechanic's hand now and we changed the spark plugs the turbocharger sensor what's is going on with this car im sick of it please let me kno
So I need help my 2017 Ford Focus acts like it is going to stall after getting gas. Every time I fill up and start the car it shudders and acts as it is going to stall but then stabilizes after a minute or two…? What could this be? Any help would be appreciated…
Had the same problem on my 2016 fusion thought it was just adjusting but no its not normal, when i get it fixed i will share what info i have my guess is the purge valve but it could be any number of things
Scott Binder 1 second ago Look up Dorman 913-430 Vapor Canister Purge Valve repair kit and you don't need all that extra stuff mine is a 2.0L Ford Escape Titanium
Thank you gorgeous the video, when I click on that part the page valve, it says it won't fit my 2019 ford escape. The 2013 to 2019 are all the same. Please help, I don't want to change that whole harness
Awwwww...purge valve ... I did change the entire snake on my 2014 escape , no start after fueling and engine light on, thanks GOD I did replace it and erase the code 2years ago, now it happens again... or it is the same thing or it is your, what is the name of that valve or the part number... thanks
BUY Purge Valve Solenoid: amzn.to/3sN9Cmb
BUY Dorman Caniser Purge Valve: www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/p/dorman-canister-purge-valve-913-430/1151184_0_0
Hello I've seen some people reply that they installed "the Part" and it worked.
But there are two parts in your video and that Solenoid looks hard to get to if you don't have a lift.
Is this something that can be fixed with just the purge valve replacement? Or do you have to do both parts?
@@gabrielolar3222 I am also curious if both parts are required or if the rear solenoid was replaced "just in case"...
You guys are crazy using Dorman parts. They are junk and you will be replacing it again in less then 6 months.
My husband and I just changed our purge valve on our 2017 Escape thanks to this video. You guys just saved us so much money, thank you!
Thank you for checking out our auto repair video that shows you how to replace the purge valve on a Ford Escape.
Have a 2019 Ford Escape 2.0L - Had Code "P0456 Evaporative Emissions System Small Leak Detected" replaced the Canister Purge valve with the one you linked in your comments. The "Dorman OE FIX Canister Purge Valve 913-430" and fixed the problem. Took less than 30 min to replace. This is much better than replacing the entire EVAP harness! Thanks for the video! Saved a trip and $$$$$$ at the dealership. After cutting the old one out I did a valve pressure check and the old canister purge valve was leaking by and not seating like it should. The new one had no leak by. Thanks again!
Glad this video helped you out! Have a great day!
Thanks guys for fuel purge valve shortcut fix on 2k14 2.5 escape .Awesome u gave video & a blessing for this 🙏 poor old boy !
Glad it helped
Will keep subscription w your channel,& hope 🙏 don't have additional repair issues. Know transmission have issues.From what little known RECOMMENDED FLUID CHANGE IS 36K MILES ? Would rather b safe than sorry later......".Thanks Again" ,I'm the Ole Shade Tree Mechanic (Really a total dummy for late model stuff)
Hope this video helped you out. Let us know if you were able to tackle this job on your own. Drop us a comment and we'll reply back!
I could fix the back side with that little piece, but nobody wants to help me elevate my car like that lol
I literally replaced the whole assembly on my wife's car Friday. I didn't remove the upper cowl or the airbox. I simply removed the intake hose and a couple extra fittings. Took me maybe 30min to do the whole thing and it was the first time I've done one. Fellas, this hurt to watch. Not gonna lie.
Sorry just noticed this comment
I would also like to add that I had looked at doing the same repair yall did but we needed the car back up as soon as possible and no one had it. I'm glad I went with the assembly though because there was a lot of oil residue in the tubes and other valves/filters in the assembly. Her car is a 2015 with 112k miles. Just something to think about if anyone else has the issue and is questioning going cheap or doing the whole assembly
I also looked at mine and don’t have to remove any thing, I have the 1.6L that must be the difference between the 1.6L and the 2.0L…. Still like to watch videos like this
Big thank you. I have a 2015 2.0 and I just installed the same part you showed us. It worked!!! Thank you.
God Bless you.
Glad it helped
Bro you are a life saver and a time saver for myself and others... keep it up thanks.
Thanks for checking out the video. Glad this helped you out.
@@HomeOwnerRepair this helped me work on my sisters car and got it fixed in less then an hour. She thought she would need to replace the whole e vap system. This part took care of the issue
Awesome close-in video and tips are very helpful - thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Missing from the instructions is that the rubber tube near the air box does not just pull off. You need to loosen the 8 mm clamp that is underneath the tube. I did the job without removing the air box. No problem. Solved the problem. Was confused about the removal of the solenoid underneath the car. Totally unnecessary. Got the valve from Rock Auto for $30. Great fix.
thank you for watching our auto repair video that shows you how to tackle the Ford Escape running rough issue after you fill your car up. Have a great day!
I just replaced the purge valve on my wife’s 2013 Escape. I only replaced the valve and used the quick connectors that came with it. Hopefully this solves the problem
Thank you for watching our Ford Escape video that shows you how to take car of your car running rough after you fill it up. Have a great day!
Did it work?
Hi, I was wondering if it’s going to work on 2014 ford Escape 1.6 ltr engine. Because I saw it online where it say’s doesn’t match with your vehicle but the part looks exactly same as shown in the video
If you are not sure you can have the Ford dealer run your VIN number and they can verify the correct part for your vehicle. Hope this helps you out.
The rear canister vent solenoid a miserable part to replace on an AWD version. On the FWD, it's like a 10 min job to do the whole canister that includes the box and valve pre-inserted into the box. For anyone doing this on something similar to the 2013 2.0L AWD, I recommend replacing the box w/valve pre-inserted as seen here there is like zero access to the valve and you basically have to take the entire rear off on the AWD. Dorman and Standard sell the valve and box together usually cheaper than the valve itself (no idea why).
Recommend driving it up on ramps, or jack standing the rear but you could probably do it without either if you're skinny.
Steps are:
Take of the shield w/10mm socket.
Disconnect the quick connect lines (pull locking tabs out, push in tab and pull off connection) and push them out of the way (above the canister) to get a little more working room.
Disconnect the rubber hose next to the solenoid using a flat head screw driver/pry tool,
Gently push up the bottom tab (closest to ground) that connects the box to the canister body to release the clip. Once the bottom clip is out, you can wiggle it out of the top clip.
Spin the box so the wire terminal is visible to you and push in on the clip and pull off.
Finagle the box out of the hole you're working in and reverse the steps for install. Wire Connector, Rubber hose, push/wedge/curse until you hear the clicks of BOTH tabs locking the whole unit into place, put the quick connects back on (white on bottom).
Sanity check the solenoid valve is in the further most counter clockwise position (to remove it, you would spin ~1/4" clock wise and pull, so you want it locked back in.
Put the shield back on.
Go drive it like you rented it and be like me and choose not to buy another Escape...
Thank you for the added tips for our viewers, it is greatly appreciated. Hope this video helped to guide you through your auto repair. Have a great day!
The part you guys put on beside the gas tank is called what.. another thing do I have to change out the purge valve and the second part you guys put on or can I just install the purge valve
You can see if just replacing the purge valve fixes the issue.
I just got code P0451 it says Fuel Tank Pressure sensor? Car isn’t running rough or anything yet. Different problem? Also is both those parts you listed needed?
To solve the issue we were having yeah I recommend replacing both parts.
I am wondering what this would cost to have done at garage,,? I have the same problem with my 2014...
Probably an hours worth of labor and cost of the part.
Did this exact repair a couple of months or so ago on my wife's 2014 Escape. Yesterday she gets code P0171 (Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1). I'm wondering if one of those snap in connectors for the hose could have come loose and is letting in air causing the lean condition? Great video by the way.
Thanks for watching
Hey guys saw your video that you can just change the purge valve vs the whole assembly and was stoked, but I can not find one that says fits my vehicle that looks like what you removed. 2014 1.6l I tried your link and it said that didn't fit my vehicle thanx in advance
The part they show is for the 2.0L ecoboost
Sorry just noticed this comment
Did you try the same part they have showed in the video or you have get it fixed from Ford? How much did you spend on the repair?
We have the 1.5L and I'm guessing this will NOT work for that?
Has anyone tried that part on the 1.5
Just a heads up that part is only available if you have the 2.0L not the 1.5L
Thanks for the added tip
What if you have 2018 1.5L??
Did you have #2 misfire or coolant leaks issues with your escape?
No, Brian was having a hard time filling the car up with gas and it would run rough after he filled it up.
What kind of fitting did you use to put on part that the hose slides on it
It was a quick connect fitting that the kit Brian purchased came with
Will this approach work for a 2016 Ford Escape?
You may be able to apply the basic steps shown in this video to that vehicle.
I have a 20 14 Ford escape an every time I drive it and make a sharp turn it start jerking and down get that much speed it's in my mechanic's hand now and we changed the spark plugs the turbocharger sensor what's is going on with this car im sick of it please let me kno
If there is a check engine light on you may want to pull the code to see what it is pointing to.
Would this be why my 2016 Escape takes several tries to turn over after I fill the tank?
Yep!
It might be what is causing the issue.
So I need help my 2017 Ford Focus acts like it is going to stall after getting gas. Every time I fill up and start the car it shudders and acts as it is going to stall but then stabilizes after a minute or two…? What could this be? Any help would be appreciated…
Had the same problem on my 2016 fusion thought it was just adjusting but no its not normal, when i get it fixed i will share what info i have my guess is the purge valve but it could be any number of things
I would probably start with replacing the purge valve to see if that resolves the problem.
It was not the purge valve :(
Hi! What was the piece you used to connect the cut line to the new part? I'm having trouble figuring out what that is. Thanks!
It was a quick connect that can with the kit Brian had purchased.
Scott Binder
1 second ago
Look up Dorman 913-430 Vapor Canister Purge Valve repair kit and you don't need all that extra stuff mine is a 2.0L Ford Escape Titanium
Does this fit for a 13 titanium escape .?
I am not sure. We currently do not have an auto repair video for this particular vehicle.
Where solenoid located at under the engine or in the back at the gas tank
I am not 100% sure what you are asking.
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Vent Control Valve
For code P0456
For that part in the end of the video
Thank you gorgeous the video, when I click on that part the page valve, it says it won't fit my 2019 ford escape. The 2013 to 2019 are all the same. Please help, I don't want to change that whole harness
Look up Dorman 913-430 Vapor Canister Purge Valve repair kit and you don't need all that extra stuff mine is a 2.0L Ford Escape Titanium
I got an escape 2015 1.6 ecodrive. Does the part fit please?
The whole assembly isnt that bad to do and you dont have to worry about possible leaks at the repair
Sorry just noticed this comment
Can you please provide a link where we can buy this part or at least tell me the name of it?
Sorry just noticed this comment
Where you get that part
Pretty sure Brian got it on Amazon
Your picture of the thumbnail is not what you replaced you replaced the purge valve but the picture for the thumbnail is a vent valve
It was one of the parts we replaced
Awwwww...purge valve ... I did change the entire snake on my 2014 escape , no start after fueling and engine light on, thanks GOD I did replace it and erase the code 2years ago, now it happens again... or it is the same thing or it is your, what is the name of that valve or the part number... thanks
Dorman # 913-430 1.6 L Ecoboost purge valve is what I got.
The fuel vapor vent valve is on the gas tank. Not sure of part number.
@@alanteague7900 It worked on your 1.6 L? All the sites I see says it's not compatible.
Sorry just noticed this comment
Looks like the hardest part was that engine cover lol.
It was a pain in the butt..lol
2:49 😂
It is always fun when you find a mouse nest in the air filter box...lol Thanks for checking out our Ford Escape auto repair video.
Why didn't you list the part?
Here you go. Just added them.
BUY Purge Valve Solenoid: amzn.to/3sN9Cmb
BUY Dorman Caniser Purge Valve: www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/p/dorman-canister-purge-valve-913-430/1151184_0_0
What kind of fitting you put on the part that the hose slides on to?
It is a slip on fitting almost like a sharkbit, it came with the kit.