This is a remarkable video perfectly describing the entire process. You helped solve some major choking and shuddering in the engine of my wife’s Ford Escape. It runs nice and smooth now, thank you so much.
Great video. Thorough, excellent camera angles, and descriptions of what you're doing. The joys of modern engines. A pcv valve change used to be a 2 min job.
Just want to say i greatly appreciated this video. Changed the PCV valve today and it was a breeze. Was also a great way to make sure i had everything i needed before i started the work
LOL! At 09:45 you said you were trying to get "a better camera angle". Dude, you have the BEST vids on all of TH-cam for anything related to the Ford EcoBoost 2.0L engine. Your lighting, focus, FOV, content, and presentation are simply amazing! I just spent 2.5 hours searching other channels and I got nothing until I found your channel. Easily would have saved me 4.0 hours for this job if I found your channel first. WIll I "subscribe to your channel", you ask? "Yes", I say, That's a no-brainer. I would subscrribe to your channel 10x if it were possible. Thanks again for the assistance.
Man, I just wanted to thank you for this thorough video. I will be doing this repair on my sons Escape to see if I can remedy some small idle rpm jumps and oil dipstick back pressure. No check engine light ever came on but just all feels like PCV valve. Care only has a little over 100K. We shall see! Worth $50 in parts and a couple hours. And was also happy to see they you are a mere mortal and bust/cut your knuckles during repairs. Ha! Have a great weekend.
Thank you so much! Excellent video that made changing the PCV on my 2013 Escape less daunting. There were a couple extra electrical connectors tabbed to the intake on the escape, but otherwise the same.
Hello, how are you, I have a question, we changed that same valve in a 2013 Ford Fusion Ecoboost, it was replaced with an original one just like the one you used, the problem is that when I put it back together and turn it on, the engine is quite accelerated, and it tells me several codes, you will know what may be failing. The codes are P06A7:00-27 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.), P0A5A:00-AF (Generator current sensor circuit malfunction.), P2122:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit low input.), P2127:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit A low input.) & P06A7 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.). All of them indicates "CMDTCs. I took the car to the Ford Agency, but they must follow a protocol, that is, pay attention to the codes that the computer tells them, and they wanted to replace one by one the sensors that indicate the error code, and the one they were going to start with has a cost more than 300 dollars. The truth is that it is already a somewhat old car and I wouldn't want to be spending money just to guess. I hope you can help me.
The voltage and circuit malfunction usually means a bad sensor or the sensor is not plugged in. Are you sure you got everything plugged back in all the way? How many miles is on the car? Was the throttle body dirty at all? Did you make sure the pcv valve was plugged in all the way and you don’t have a vacuum leak? Also these cars had issues with the accelerator pedal sticking. Have you tried unplugging the accelerator plug in on top of the pedal and let it sit a few minutes before plugging back in might try that. Another thing is if you have a scantool try resetting the kam (keep alive memory) to relearn throttle positions.
Great work...my 12 edge keeps pulling a 0299 code so I'm hoping this helps before I replace the turbo... the car runs fine but excessive oil out the exhaust...you do have a great all around video.
It was the sound symposer it pipes noise from the induction system into the cabin. Most people delete it because they want to hear the the sound of the engine and turbo.
Why did you change the PCV Valve assembly? What was the concern? My daughters Escape has Oil spitting out around the VVT Solenoids. I am curious if it could be over pressured inside the Valve Cover, and that is why it is leaking. Solid video sir. Thank you.
The gasket for the pcv assembly was bad and was leaking oil all over. The vvt seals/gaskets dry out over time and will start to leak oil. Especially when running you can replace just the vvt solenoid gasket but you might as well replace the valve cover gasket as well. I did a video on this but it was on a non eco boost engine but is very similar. th-cam.com/video/2Xt-rZEu-WY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qsiErNgPjSdWQMHF
Hello, how are you, I have a question, we changed that same valve in a 2013 Ford Fusion Ecoboost, it was replaced with an original one just like the one you used, the problem is that when I put it back together and turn it on, the engine is quite accelerated, and it tells me several codes, you will know what may be failing
The codes are P06A7:00-27 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.), P0A5A:00-AF (Generator current sensor circuit malfunction.), P2122:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit low input.), P2127:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit A low input.) & P06A7 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.). All of them indicates "CMDTCs. @@BLUECOLLARGARAGE
How has this PCV valve assembly been holding up over the past year? Not sure if I should order this one from Amazon or buy the Motorcraft one. Very good video by the way, didnt know where it was exactly.
No issues at seems to be same quality as oem. My old pcv valve was still good it’s just the gasket was bad so I figured might as well replace the pcv valve as well. Been over a year now no more oil leaks.
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find just the pcv valve so yes you’ll have to replace the whole assembly. There is aftermarket delete kits available.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Hmm... That's weird. I found the PCV valve itself on rockauto but bought it at advanced auto parts. I was just kinda worried that the entire thing needed to be replaced even if I bought the valve itself. Maybe it's because I have a different year or something I don't know. All I know is I'm replacing it in hopes that it fixes my burning oil on startup. Anyway, thanks for the video I will definitely be using this when I'm taking apart my car.
6:00 So the factory PCV valve is actually pretty crappy and will leak under boost. It's only rated for about 20 psi. Best way to deal with that is to replace the entire PCV breather plate with a kit from either Damond Motorsports or Radium Engineering. Both make a PCV breather plate that has baffles that do a better job of trapping oil and preventing it from recirculating. They each also come with a valve that performs a lot better and does not leak under boost. You install it the exact same way you replaced the valve in this video. Pair one of those with an oil catch can and you will help ensure that your Focus ST's engine runs cleaner and gets better mileage.
Pretty much the same only difference is the intake manifold has an extra bolt on the bottom and the throttle body is in a different position. In this video I show how to remove your style intake manifold starting at 10:42 th-cam.com/video/H1waN-mTrrc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=w6w2RUY22q1Rbc51
He said it's a good idea while you have it off. But as long as the seals aren't damaged you should be fine to reuse them. They're only $4-$8 so it's better to just replace them in my opinion.
They’re $25 for Fel-Pro, everyone else wants $36+. It’s not always necessary, but look at yours under a magnifier, and look for tearing on the surfaces. If it’s pitted or oil soaked, toss it!
Found it lol. This video might save me $350. Shop was charging 2 hours labor at $135 an hour, plus the part. On Ford OEM it's called a Oil Separator - Engine Crankcase Vent Valve
I hate how easy these videos make jobs look. I know they fast forward some but i watched 3 or 4 on reolacing the thermostat on my ST and every video was around 6 min. I said "ok, lets say 1-2 hours because im slow"... i struggled with that damn thing for 8+ hours lmao. I ended up removing my headlight, expansion tank, and a slew of other components. I wish i knew how easy it was to remove intake, because that would have given me soooo much room to access those bolts on the thermostat housing! I also replace the hose with the white clip same one that he had in there probably as my 14's had a green clip. Now I wanna know how my PCV looks... 😂😅
This process will work for a 2013-2017 Ford Escape 2.0 Ecoboost; however, there are a few more clips than in this video. Also, do not tighten the crank case bolts to 106lb of torque. That’s too much. You’ll break a bolt, ask me how I know….
Owner of a 1993 Oldsmobile 98 and a 2001 Honda CR-V, but needed to help a friend fix her car. This video hurts my brain. It actually hurts. Why is the throttle body in the most ass position the engineer could put it. Why do you have to drop the whole gas tank to replace the fuel pump when on my cars you just take out the backseat and use the access hole. Low and behold at least you're still lucky to not have ended up with the 2019-2021 Ford Fucus with the 1.0L EcoBoom engine that won't even make it to 100,000 miles without blowing up from a rubber timing belt deteriorating in scolding hot dinosaur fluids. We should not accept these decisions that car companies are forcing on the car market. Why do people continue to buy this? We need to wake up. The days of people even changing their own tires to avoid a tow or "dealership roadside service" is in jeopardy as more and more vehicles don't give you spare tires standard. I don't want anyone's children to have to experience disassembling a modern F-150 with a plastic intake manifold that deteriorates into Avengers dust after enough heat cycles. Enough of the big style covers, return to practical simple port fuel injected designs please. It's obvious they don't care about fuel economy standards when every vehicle is identified as a "light truck" while the EPA fuel economy regulated sedans fade away into a bygone age.
I will singlehandedly preach that the Honda B20B i4 and the General Motors 3800 V6 were some of the best engines we have ever received. They just work, they're simple, and they're hard to break. It's just unfortunate that usually the transmission is the first component to go on these. That's how it SHOULD be, but somehow modern transmissions are even worse. Modern CVTs can fail in a 2020 Ford Maverick as soon as 80,000 miles, or 65,000 miles in a Nissan Altima if you don't change the fluid. Look up a fluid change for any modern car, then look up the fluid change for any 90s car. The dipsticks are gone, and the manufacturer wants you to let it burn if you're unwilling to pump it in through a bolthole.
Couldn’t agree with you more brother! It’s honestly sad what the cars and trucks have turned into. Seems like after 2007 every vehicle manufacturer went down hill. With technology taking over and trying to please the epa on emissions. Why do we have to have a huge 20” screen nowadays that controls everything now instead of good ole turn style knobs for how hvac controls or radio. I think we’ve just become so lazy as a society.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE it's funny you say that. 2006 was the last year for the GM 3800 if I do recall correctly. It's just hard to watch the transition of quality going from the 3800 to the replacement 3.6 with all of its early timing chain issues.
Good video . Mechanic stays evenly calm and video stays were he puts it. Not shaking all over the place
This is a remarkable video perfectly describing the entire process. You helped solve some major choking and shuddering in the engine of my wife’s Ford Escape. It runs nice and smooth now, thank you so much.
Great video. Thorough, excellent camera angles, and descriptions of what you're doing. The joys of modern engines. A pcv valve change used to be a 2 min job.
Fun fact it's like a 5 min job on the 2.0 in the modern fusions.
Just want to say i greatly appreciated this video. Changed the PCV valve today and it was a breeze. Was also a great way to make sure i had everything i needed before i started the work
LOL! At 09:45 you said you were trying to get "a better camera angle". Dude, you have the BEST vids on all of TH-cam for anything related to the Ford EcoBoost 2.0L engine. Your lighting, focus, FOV, content, and presentation are simply amazing! I just spent 2.5 hours searching other channels and I got nothing until I found your channel. Easily would have saved me 4.0 hours for this job if I found your channel first. WIll I "subscribe to your channel", you ask? "Yes", I say, That's a no-brainer. I would subscrribe to your channel 10x if it were possible. Thanks again for the assistance.
Thanks I appreciate that!
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEIs the pcv valve and purge valve solenoid same thing??
@@totov7673 no the purge valve is separate from the pcv valve.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Just nocited thanks bro.
Thanks I will do mine next week that is easier than I thought
Man, I just wanted to thank you for this thorough video. I will be doing this repair on my sons Escape to see if I can remedy some small idle rpm jumps and oil dipstick back pressure. No check engine light ever came on but just all feels like PCV valve. Care only has a little over 100K. We shall see! Worth $50 in parts and a couple hours. And was also happy to see they you are a mere mortal and bust/cut your knuckles during repairs. Ha! Have a great weekend.
Thank you so much! Excellent video that made changing the PCV on my 2013 Escape less daunting. There were a couple extra electrical connectors tabbed to the intake on the escape, but otherwise the same.
This is the video I needed, 👌🏻 just great step by step for first timers.
That was super helpful!! thank you
Hello, how are you, I have a question, we changed that same valve in a 2013 Ford Fusion Ecoboost, it was replaced with an original one just like the one you used, the problem is that when I put it back together and turn it on, the engine is quite accelerated, and it tells me several codes, you will know what may be failing.
The codes are P06A7:00-27 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.), P0A5A:00-AF (Generator current sensor circuit malfunction.), P2122:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit low input.), P2127:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit A low input.) & P06A7 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.). All of them indicates "CMDTCs.
I took the car to the Ford Agency, but they must follow a protocol, that is, pay attention to the codes that the computer tells them, and they wanted to replace one by one the sensors that indicate the error code, and the one they were going to start with has a cost more than 300 dollars. The truth is that it is already a somewhat old car and I wouldn't want to be spending money just to guess. I hope you can help me.
The voltage and circuit malfunction usually means a bad sensor or the sensor is not plugged in. Are you sure you got everything plugged back in all the way? How many miles is on the car? Was the throttle body dirty at all? Did you make sure the pcv valve was plugged in all the way and you don’t have a vacuum leak? Also these cars had issues with the accelerator pedal sticking. Have you tried unplugging the accelerator plug in on top of the pedal and let it sit a few minutes before plugging back in might try that. Another thing is if you have a scantool try resetting the kam (keep alive memory) to relearn throttle positions.
Is the ST a turbo? I have a 2017 Lincoln MKC 2.0 Turbo with 112k and lots of smokeless blowby. The PCV valve has never been replaced. Thanks!
Yes the ST is a turbo.
Great work...my 12 edge keeps pulling a 0299 code so I'm hoping this helps before I replace the turbo... the car runs fine but excessive oil out the exhaust...you do have a great all around video.
Thanks! What a pita just to change a pcv valve. I'll live with the oil leak.
Unless your ok with loosing horsepower (HP) power 😅.
The pcv valve is connected to the turbo if its leaking oil than the turbo will leak boost so thats a boost leak. you going loose up to 5 -6 psi!
At 13:15 you mention a part "that may be there" What is that part and why did you remove it?
It was the sound symposer it pipes noise from the induction system into the cabin. Most people delete it because they want to hear the the sound of the engine and turbo.
So you can’t pull that pcv valve out of the plastic housing?
You might be able to but I don’t think they sell replacement ones plus the pcv valve on mine was still good. The problem was the gasket.
Nice work. I have a 17 Fusion Titanium. Is the location of the PCV the same?
Yes it will be the same if you got the 2.0 eco boost.
The PCV does come out of the Baffle Assay. Lot of unnecessary work.
Why did you change the PCV Valve assembly? What was the concern? My daughters Escape has Oil spitting out around the VVT Solenoids. I am curious if it could be over pressured inside the Valve Cover, and that is why it is leaking. Solid video sir. Thank you.
The gasket for the pcv assembly was bad and was leaking oil all over. The vvt seals/gaskets dry out over time and will start to leak oil. Especially when running you can replace just the vvt solenoid gasket but you might as well replace the valve cover gasket as well. I did a video on this but it was on a non eco boost engine but is very similar. th-cam.com/video/2Xt-rZEu-WY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qsiErNgPjSdWQMHF
Do you have to drain your oil prior to doing this?
@@zacharyalbarelli933 nope
Since you are that into it, wouldn’t you want to clean the carbon off the valves?
I did a separate video on this th-cam.com/video/OU_cKsmFa34/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KaXWdIyeXKTq9-cS
Hello, how are you, I have a question, we changed that same valve in a 2013 Ford Fusion Ecoboost, it was replaced with an original one just like the one you used, the problem is that when I put it back together and turn it on, the engine is quite accelerated, and it tells me several codes, you will know what may be failing
What codes are you getting?
The codes are P06A7:00-27 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.), P0A5A:00-AF (Generator current sensor circuit malfunction.), P2122:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit low input.), P2127:00-AF (Sensor/throttle position switch/accelerator pedal circuit A low input.) & P06A7 (Sensor reference voltage B circuit malfunction/limits.). All of them indicates "CMDTCs. @@BLUECOLLARGARAGE
What ist the name of the plug with the with clip ? Because I broke the white clip
That’s the purge valve solenoid hose.
Do you know where can I buy the white clip ? Because I broke it and nowhere can I buy it
@@zkacperxfreeze2093Vapor Hose Retainer Clip
Part number CV6Z-9A317-B
Dealer only part and it’s green in color but it fits where the white one goes.
How has this PCV valve assembly been holding up over the past year? Not sure if I should order this one from Amazon or buy the Motorcraft one. Very good video by the way, didnt know where it was exactly.
No issues at seems to be same quality as oem. My old pcv valve was still good it’s just the gasket was bad so I figured might as well replace the pcv valve as well. Been over a year now no more oil leaks.
Do you forsure need to replace the whole oil separator? You can't just replace PCV?
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find just the pcv valve so yes you’ll have to replace the whole assembly. There is aftermarket delete kits available.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Hmm... That's weird. I found the PCV valve itself on rockauto but bought it at advanced auto parts. I was just kinda worried that the entire thing needed to be replaced even if I bought the valve itself. Maybe it's because I have a different year or something I don't know. All I know is I'm replacing it in hopes that it fixes my burning oil on startup. Anyway, thanks for the video I will definitely be using this when I'm taking apart my car.
Usually, they cost about the same with or without the oil sep... maybe $3 more.@@iCripL
6:00 So the factory PCV valve is actually pretty crappy and will leak under boost. It's only rated for about 20 psi. Best way to deal with that is to replace the entire PCV breather plate with a kit from either Damond Motorsports or Radium Engineering. Both make a PCV breather plate that has baffles that do a better job of trapping oil and preventing it from recirculating. They each also come with a valve that performs a lot better and does not leak under boost. You install it the exact same way you replaced the valve in this video. Pair one of those with an oil catch can and you will help ensure that your Focus ST's engine runs cleaner and gets better mileage.
Great video!!! Very detailed. Is the PCV same as the oil separator? 2013 Ford Explorer 2.0 ecoboost
Yes. The PCV valve is integrated into the oil separator.
Would this be the same process for a 2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel ??
Pretty much the same only difference is the intake manifold has an extra bolt on the bottom and the throttle body is in a different position. In this video I show how to remove your style intake manifold starting at 10:42 th-cam.com/video/H1waN-mTrrc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=w6w2RUY22q1Rbc51
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you! I appreciate the tip 👌🏼
With all that being done, I would definitely time that to clean the intake valves as well
Would a bad pcv cause a too lean code ?
Yes it would
hi, did you have an erratic idle before?
Hello very good video and i have a question do you think a bad pcv breather would affect boost pressure on car ?
Yes it will
Any idea if this can jix a p04db on a 2017 st
Nice video, What were symptoms? I have a problem of shuddering on WOT with everything ok on low throttle .. Wonder if it can cause that.
Change your spark plugs
What kit is this please?
amzn.to/3VWwpuE
Hi what is the torque value for that plate?
106 inch pounds.
Thanks for a very good video. I think the service manuals would not be very helpful for this project.
Do you have to replace intake manifold gaskets?
He said it's a good idea while you have it off. But as long as the seals aren't damaged you should be fine to reuse them. They're only $4-$8 so it's better to just replace them in my opinion.
They’re $25 for Fel-Pro, everyone else wants $36+. It’s not always necessary, but look at yours under a magnifier, and look for tearing on the surfaces. If it’s pitted or oil soaked, toss it!
Will this fix code P04DB????
Any chance you can link me to this for a 2019 ford transit connect xlt 2.0l ? I can't find the full assembly ANYWHERE.
Found it lol. This video might save me $350. Shop was charging 2 hours labor at $135 an hour, plus the part. On Ford OEM it's called a Oil Separator - Engine Crankcase Vent Valve
I hate how easy these videos make jobs look. I know they fast forward some but i watched 3 or 4 on reolacing the thermostat on my ST and every video was around 6 min. I said "ok, lets say 1-2 hours because im slow"... i struggled with that damn thing for 8+ hours lmao. I ended up removing my headlight, expansion tank, and a slew of other components.
I wish i knew how easy it was to remove intake, because that would have given me soooo much room to access those bolts on the thermostat housing! I also replace the hose with the white clip same one that he had in there probably as my 14's had a green clip. Now I wanna know how my PCV looks... 😂😅
Thank you!
This process will work for a 2013-2017 Ford Escape 2.0 Ecoboost; however, there are a few more clips than in this video. Also, do not tighten the crank case bolts to 106lb of torque. That’s too much. You’ll break a bolt, ask me how I know….
Thank you for a very impressive video but I would live the work to a professional.😊😊😊
Owner of a 1993 Oldsmobile 98 and a 2001 Honda CR-V, but needed to help a friend fix her car. This video hurts my brain. It actually hurts. Why is the throttle body in the most ass position the engineer could put it. Why do you have to drop the whole gas tank to replace the fuel pump when on my cars you just take out the backseat and use the access hole. Low and behold at least you're still lucky to not have ended up with the 2019-2021 Ford Fucus with the 1.0L EcoBoom engine that won't even make it to 100,000 miles without blowing up from a rubber timing belt deteriorating in scolding hot dinosaur fluids.
We should not accept these decisions that car companies are forcing on the car market. Why do people continue to buy this? We need to wake up. The days of people even changing their own tires to avoid a tow or "dealership roadside service" is in jeopardy as more and more vehicles don't give you spare tires standard. I don't want anyone's children to have to experience disassembling a modern F-150 with a plastic intake manifold that deteriorates into Avengers dust after enough heat cycles. Enough of the big style covers, return to practical simple port fuel injected designs please. It's obvious they don't care about fuel economy standards when every vehicle is identified as a "light truck" while the EPA fuel economy regulated sedans fade away into a bygone age.
I will singlehandedly preach that the Honda B20B i4 and the General Motors 3800 V6 were some of the best engines we have ever received. They just work, they're simple, and they're hard to break. It's just unfortunate that usually the transmission is the first component to go on these. That's how it SHOULD be, but somehow modern transmissions are even worse. Modern CVTs can fail in a 2020 Ford Maverick as soon as 80,000 miles, or 65,000 miles in a Nissan Altima if you don't change the fluid. Look up a fluid change for any modern car, then look up the fluid change for any 90s car. The dipsticks are gone, and the manufacturer wants you to let it burn if you're unwilling to pump it in through a bolthole.
Couldn’t agree with you more brother! It’s honestly sad what the cars and trucks have turned into. Seems like after 2007 every vehicle manufacturer went down hill. With technology taking over and trying to please the epa on emissions. Why do we have to have a huge 20” screen nowadays that controls everything now instead of good ole turn style knobs for how hvac controls or radio. I think we’ve just become so lazy as a society.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE it's funny you say that. 2006 was the last year for the GM 3800 if I do recall correctly. It's just hard to watch the transition of quality going from the 3800 to the replacement 3.6 with all of its early timing chain issues.
You got no coolant on your expansion tank
Bro you can change just the valve !!
The valve wasn’t the issue. The gasket was the issue leaking oil that’s why I replaced the whole thing.