I’m a 40 year Factory Trained Master Tech myself (different car lines) and I have to say that this is the guy to watch if you have Ford repair questions. His approach to his work is top notch and he doesn’t talk too much and make things complicated. Straight forward good advice and technique. Like I said, I’ve been doing this for a long time and when I want information on my Fords before I tackle something I check this channel first. Thank you FordTechMakuloco for all your videos.
100000000000% agree thanks to this channel I'm a 98 f150 5.4 4x4 beast lol man I learned so much about 4x4 and motor and trans. Stuff much respect to this channel✌✌✌✌👌
Definitely, I have a 2007 ford f150 I bought it last year with 200000 mileage that's how I know this channel and by now I know a lot about Ford. So I save lots of money on repair it.
I love watching people that know what they’re doing..love doing it..and share what they do. I’ve never seen anybody better at it than this young man. You’ve helped me immeasurably with my ‘09 F-150. Thank you so much!!! 👍👍👌
Thank you for making this video. My 2011 F150 gave me an error when trying to shift into 4X4 drive. Took it to the dealer and they wanted $552 to fix this very issue. I bought the part and fixed it in 15 min. This saved me hundreds. I can’t believe they wanted to charge (rip me off) me like that. Thank you!
What was the error message you we’re getting? I have a 2011 ford f 250 and I the message I’m getting is shift delay pull forward then followed by check 4x4
When the shift motor on my 2000 Ranger failed I found that problem in motor was that the springs be hind the motor brushes had corroded and failed. I replaced them using springs from an Edelbrock carb. Back in business for free.🤘
Love this guy. Great teacher. Efficient videography. Clear explanations. Great tips on procedures. Teaches me a lot about my truck. Thanks so much. This is why TH-cam was invented.
Man you make fixing my Ford fun. I don’t even have this problem (yet) but I’m ready to kick ass myself when I do! Thanks for what you do. I enjoy learning more about my F150
My 94 ranger i just took the cover off the locating part. I cleaned the contacts and fingers then re assembled and has been working fine for over 10 years now.
Excellent info and guide to do this replacement. Replaced it my 2011 F150 Lariat with 260K mile. I found two things to add. 1-My new motor/actuator had weak plastic for the cable retention clips (in fact one side of it BROKE when inserting into the tab). I re-used the one from my prior motor/actuator and also zip tied it for extra security. (Would hate for it to dangle and get hung up on something and rip the cable). 2-I found that inserting the separate "Blue" wire BEFORE re-inserting the red retainer clip into the new shift motor makes inserting the blue wire into the connector MUCH EASIER. Thanks so much for the video and excellent guidance. What a low cost fix for something that I thought was going to be a major dealer item.
This video presentation helped me immensely. Clear concise explanations with great video shots. I bought the part, followed the instructions, everything went smoothly and it worked perfectly once done. One addition; I did pray before hand; Jesus is a great 2nd pair of hands.
Did you have any problems with your hub actuators? My 4x4 failed a few months back but after that I started to have a vibration on my passenger side. All suspension is new. Not sure if the 4x4 not working is causing this issue
Have to thank you for all your videos on here. Have a 2011 f-150 and have followed your videos on a number of issues. Dropping the front axle wasn’t fun by the way. I found the linked part for the transfer switch motor cheaper elsewhere online but gladly am paying more through your link to support you and your channel in what little way I can. Keep up the good work.
Great video. That motor and the vacuum hubs are the reason I opted for the Manual 4WD in my Super Duty. Its Been working great for me for 12 years now.
I had this motor go bad on my Chevy trailblazer a few years ago. Replaced it with Dorman part and had been functioning well so far. 18 yrs on the truck now
Thanks for the video. It makes it very easy to do the job. I was able to align the spline of the transfer case to the new motor by plugging the motor in and turning the 4 wheel hi/low switch. You may have to start the engine to get the motor to turn. Anyway I'm back in business.
Outstanding Sir, thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge. So many of us out here have no problem working on our vehicles and turning a wrench every now and then, But most often were just not sure where to start or what the process might entail. Information is always extremely valuable that's for sure, but when you give your time that is the ultimate gift someone could share, thank you sir.
I don't even know if my 2006 F-150 XLT 4x4 is even engaging into either 4 hi or 4 low. It's the first vehicle I have that has 4x4, so I don't even know what it feels. One time when our yard was muddy, I had the truck set in 2 hi, and of course, would not move. So I switch it to 4 hi to see if I could get unstuck, I didn't hear a sound when switching, and when I tried moving, it felt as if I was still in 2 hi. It did show that 4 hi was engaged on the dash. So then I put it in neutral, switch to 4 low, I hear a clunk like I think it should, and I step on the gas a little bit, and it feels more torque like it should, but when I tried moving, it felt like only the rear wheels were spinning. One time when I was in a parking lot, I was turning and I could hear the front tires screeching when I was turning into a parking space. I switch to 4 hi and back to 2 hi, and when I turned again, there was no screeching. I feel like the differentials in the front and rear lock on their own. Sometimes when I turn onto a road, I can hear one of the tires in the rear dragging as if I had the rear diff locked. So I don't know what's up or what the problem is. I've had this truck for almost two years now and I don't even know if 4x4 works. I don't see uneven wear on the tires, it still has about the same amount of tread since the day I got it. But these problems aren't constant, and only happen once in a while.
My wife came home with a 06 F150 4X4 yesterday and gave it to me for my Birthday so yeah there are a few things wrong but great truck can’t believe I haven’t switched to ford earlier
Great video! I have an '04 F350 4x4 (6.0). I just gotta share this fun ride. First, I'd like to note that I _have not_ solved my issue. I thought this t-case motor going bad was my issue when my 4x4 wouldn't engage (the light wouldn't even come on on the dash when I selected 4-hi or 4-lo). Anyhow, I replaced the motor, and turned the truck on and tested it and VOILA, it seemed to work. Well, the plot thickens. Now, if I turn the truck on and immediately select 4, I can get it into 4 hi or lo, and hear the t-case motor engaging. But, if I drive it long enough in 4x, and then decide to put it back in 2, it will not shift back into 2 no matter what (fully stopped, in either neutral or park). Vacuum line fills, and doesn't turn on or off intermittently, and the vac line seems good. Setting the hubs to either auto or manual works fine after I engage 4x with the internal switch/through the t-case, so I'm getting vacuum on auto, and good lock on manual from the hubs. So, I found out that I have to turn the truck off and then back on in order to have the actuation take place. If I'm driving for a while on the highway and decide to pull off somewhere that requires 4x4, I need to pull over, completely turn off the truck, then turn it back on (ON only, or cranking it over) before I can switch over. Same goes for being in 4x: I need to stop, turn the truck off, then turn it back on in order to disengage. Strange. All of my fuses are fine under the dash, and the relays under the hood are brand new and they switch when I test them manually with a test light. Go figure, I'm stumped, and three shops have been stumped as well lol. Meh, turning the truck off and back on is no big deal at this point, but it's a mystery to be sure.
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Wow! Yours sounds like a seized T-Case, but if the dash light turned off, that means the relay is telling the computer that the T-Case is in the correct position. I finally solved my issue, it was a loose connection AT the T-Case motor. When the truck would get "hot", the terminals would expand and slide away from contact. When it cooled off, the terminals would shrink and make decent enough contact for the relay to talk to the T-Case, and vice-versa. Your issue could be hub & or vacuum related. Check for vacuum leaks. Jack up the front, check to see if your hubs are locked by spinning the tires. See if the front shaft spins freely or if it's locked. If the hubs are locked, then you know it's a hub/vac leak (usually manually unlocking them will work, or you can unplug the vac from the reservoir near the vacuum pump on the passenger side to remove all vac pressure). The light not being on is why I aim the solutions more toward a hub seize, or a vacuum issue. The light is controlled by the computer, which gets its information directly from the relay sent from the T-Case. You could check the two relays under the hood on the driver side. They are two identical black relay switches (almost perfect black squares) under a black plastic cap which looks rectangular. They sit near either the driver side battery, or more toward the driver side firewall (around the outer edge of the DEGAS/coolant overflow bottle). Check the relays, or swap them, and see which one is bad. Good luck!
Just a thought, maybe this might work or not, you let us know Brian. If the new motor doesn’t line up with the shaft (due to not being in 2 High when the motor failed). Instead of turning the shaft by hand if it was stuck in 4x4 H or L, couldn’t you just hook up the wires to the new motor, and turn your 4x4 selector inside the truck until the motor lines up? Or would that cause any problems? Maybe works? Might be easier than turning by hand if drive line was loaded?
You are the very best. Always well video'd, with clear explanations. I'm admittedly a guy who doesn't even know where to put in blinker fluid but you give me hope. I appreciate your extensive knowledge. I can only watch and wish that I could competently do all this cool stuff. Watch and Learn. I am.
Swapped out my rear shocks last week, and did the transfer case motor today. Nice and easy just like the vid. I really appreciate all the vids man, keep them coming. I need my 07 FX4 to keep going as long as it can!
I can't thank you enough for this video! I'm not very mechanically inclined but, this video helped me change my actuator motor with ease. Thanks again!
I got the same truck what message were you getting when trying to engage 4wd? Mine keeps saying shift delay pull forward then followed by a check 4x4 message
I had that exact same problem on my 99 F150. It got stuck in 4 Low and I was able to figure it out on my own however I was unable to replace it right away I had to take the old one off manually put it in 2 wheel drive cover the spot where the shift motor goes until I could afford to get a new one. Very easy fix
@@leugbol I was just able to turn it with my fingers there is no stress on the transfer case so nothing was binding and was marked on the transfer case for 2-wheel 4 High and 4 Low it was quite easy to turn by hand
Hi, Enrico from Italy here, I have the same problem, my transmission is currently stuck on 4L. today I tried going back and forth shifting to N trying to get back to 2x4 but nothing would make it work. in your opinion, do I have the possibility to manually rotate the shaft to the 2x4 position? and the on-board computer recognizes the right position, if the shift position sensor Is down? Thanks
I’ve seen it recommended that the harness connector be filled with dielectric grease before it’s reconnected (along with all other underbody connectors). Thoughts?
I actually had two faults one day, it was weird. I had this code and proved the shift motor to be bad, but when it was done 4WD still didn't work. It ended up being two faults, turns out the shift position signal return wire to the TCCM was broken as well. Replaced the harness up to the RF fender and a new shift motor.
Hey professor...That transfer case fluid (as opposed to mercon V) is becoming less (and less) available and more and more expensive...Is that still the only recommended fluid?...I hear noise about merc LV...?...If I heard if from you, I wouldn't have to wonder...Maybe sometime in the future you can address that...Again, thanks!!!
Ford told me to use mercon lv instead of transfer case fluid because they dont make it anymore.. they dont care much If my transfer case seizes so i would be interested to know if the mercon lv is also as good as transfer case fluid.
Thanks for the video. This helped on my 2016 f150 with the 2.7 . That wire is a pain and the clip is white not red. Noticed my oil drain plug is leaking , I doubt the dealership changed the o ring on it last time, was down half a quart , only been about 1800 miles since it was changed.
If you are under warranty, there’s a fix. The check valve is replaced, if there is still a noise, many of the iwe’s actually separate plastic from the diaphragm.
What bout a video on replacing vacuum lines on the f 150 brian I think mine a clogged up or can I just shoot brake clean air it out with air wand really good
Enjoyed a cup of coffee while learning step-by-step with you. Would it be OK to zip-tie that blue wire to the other wires to secure it better? Or, is there some signal interference?
My 2009 Ford F150 feels like it is stuck in between 4 high and 2-wheel drive could this be the problem? I've already changed the actuators in the hubs.
Is there a way to test your transfer motor BEFORE buying a new one? Or is "NO 4x4 action felt" an obvious result of motor failure? Also, I found one on eBay for $57.60 / free shipping. Is that a risk? (I have a 1994 Explorer 4x4, 185k miles) I've answered my own question about an electrical bench test, see: Diag and Repair Transfer Case Motor: Mazda B4000/ Ford Ranger......
Thanks for the video. My truck (2010 f150 fx4) has one wire coming out of the top of the transfer case like the one in your video. All the parts stored round here have a motor for the two wire setup. Would it cause an issue putting the one wire into one of the two holes (which one?)?.
My 2012 F-150 makes one heck of a grinding/thrashing noise when attempting to engage 4wd which it eventually does with a loud Clunk! Disengaging is hit or miss and take awhile. I wonder if this could be the cause?
Seems to me, if you couldn't jack it, you could plug in the motor, and it should index to whatever state the transfer case was in when it died. If needs be, move the 4X4 selector switch to the desired position to have the motor match the transfer case spline. Seems a LOT easier than jacking up the truck.
Great how to video! My 2019 F150 4WD engages rough into 4 low and engages right into 2nd gear when i shift from neutral to drive. 4 H, 2h shifts smoothly Is this a transmission killer problem? under 10k miles.
I am very impressed with this video, very well done. We took our old motor off on a 2002 Ford Exp. 4x4 to test it. It turned OK but now the shaft on the motor does not line up with the transfer case shaft. So we turned the transfer case shaft to NEUTRAL position, and the motor shaft looks to be very close to alignment with the transfer case motor shaft. We have the transmission in Neutral position in car. Before we reinstall, we want to know if this is the proper way to do this when the motor shaft has been rotated from original position. Can you help us?
So it's a case of these units that it's when they fail not if they will fail . I m amazed are so vulnerable AND so expensive when they go bad .What warranty do these have when new ?
Hi! Your videos have been great to help us with the random misfires we were getting, but now we are having shifting and sputtering issues around 70mph with RPMs between 4-5k for a while before it finally shifts, but is rougher and louder than usual even at slower speeds. We got the scanner and Forscan, and which is giving us codes P1867 and P1891 but no engine light. It i a 2005 Ford F-150. And we just replaced all coils and plugs, did timing job about a year ago, and transfer case leak fixed (thanks to your video) and compression test in all cylinders. What would be our next steps? Thanks again for all you do on here!
Thanks Brian for the info. I've worked a few Ford 4WD problems, never replaced the motor. The vacuum system and the 4LO switch. ( the switch turned on the 4LO indicator in the the cluster. These trucks were 2003-2004 models)
Good morning I have a 2008 f150 I change the 4x4 motor like you did in the video also the vacuum lines but still the 4x4 not coming on I check the fuse at the fuse box they all good also put new 4x4 on the wheels bearing too what else can it be need more info on this. Thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge it has help me a lot I got a question on a 2012 Ford F-150 that’s doesn’t start only cranks I need to know how to test the fuel pump module I got power and ground but the fpc and the fpm signals I don’t know how to test em Any help is appreciated
I have a question about the information shown on the DIC while selecting 4x4 modes. Occasionaly when selecting 4H it will say shifting in progress and most the time it will not. It does the same for auto 4 mode, 90% of the time it just says 4x4 mode. Now everytime 4L is selected, it will say shifting in progress. You can absolutely tell it locks in 4L. Now 4H only feels locked in if it says shifting in progress. Found out the hard way it did not engage trying to leave deer camp where 4x4 is a must. I disengaged it as it wasn't need after getting through the bad hole. This is my first Blue Oval venture and so far I'm liking my 07 Exidition EL. My first V8 in almost 30 years and I missed that torque.
I have a 2011 Expedition that will not switch into 4L... Says to roll forward to engage... I do, then put back into neutral and it tells me again to roll forward... 2wd 4A and 4H work perfectly though....
My motor was giving me all kinds of trouble. Ordered up my new motor off Amazon (a lot cheaper than the Ford parts website) and replaced it. Awesome directions in this video! My only question is what do I do with the old motor? Can it be refurbished?
Since using my 4 wheel drive last week in the snow and of course changing the dial back to 2 wheel drive, it almost feels like it’s possibly still stuck in 4 maybe? When I first accelerate or come to a stop there is a vibration i can hear and feel that reminds me of being in 4 wheel drive. This sounds like it could be the problem/ solution?
Can you do a video about how to replace the 4x4 hub vacuum lines on a 07 F-150 and possibly the part numbers for them, mine are all dry rotted and no longer lock into 4 wheel drive.
Thanks for the guide! I think my shift motor is OK, but.. I have a 1997 Expedition with 4wd, the 4h and 4l work just fine but the a4wd flashes and the auto doesn't work. Think it could be the shift motor or the sensors?
2004 F-150 4.6 - Does this part manage the synchronization of the transfer case when shifting from 4wd back to 2wd? My gears grind when going back to 2wd, and I have to turn off my engine to shift the transfer case back to 2wd. Other than that issue, the transfer case works fine.
I have a C1728 code. Front diff seems engaged when driving. I replaced shift motor 5 years ago with an Amazon special. Shifts into 4w just fine. I does say shift delayed sometimes. Thinking i need a new shift motor??
Juan Lagarde He definitely did because I drove it there from Michigan in the blizzard that we had last week so it was definitely not clean. Brian is the best!
I think these need the transmission to be in neutral to come out of 4 low?? I would lobe to see more of the diagnosis/troubleshooting. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I’m a 40 year Factory Trained Master Tech myself (different car lines) and I have to say that this is the guy to watch if you have Ford repair questions. His approach to his work is top notch and he doesn’t talk too much and make things complicated. Straight forward good advice and technique. Like I said, I’ve been doing this for a long time and when I want information on my Fords before I tackle something I check this channel first.
Thank you FordTechMakuloco for all your videos.
Garage wanted $600 to do this. I paid $185 and did it myself in about 15 minutes! Works perfectly again! THANKS SO MUCH!!
u cannot dislike this man video he makes no errors
Tyrell Williams so agreed!
@@turf7empest the dislikers are other private shops throwing salt because he putting us on game
Tyrell Williams i totally agree brother!
Lol, I was seriously wondering how 14 people gave this a thumbs down
If you have a Ford, this is the channel for you!
100000000000% agree thanks to this channel I'm a 98 f150 5.4 4x4 beast lol man I learned so much about 4x4 and motor and trans. Stuff much respect to this channel✌✌✌✌👌
I dont even own a ford but I love watching a true master at work.well I say I don't own a ford but I do have an order for a new bronco
Definitely, I have a 2007 ford f150 I bought it last year with 200000 mileage that's how I know this channel and by now I know a lot about Ford. So I save lots of money on repair it.
Agreed! This guy is pretty amazing!
Agree I'm from iraq and this is tj e best chunel for Ford 👍😊
I love watching people that know what they’re doing..love doing it..and share what they do. I’ve never seen anybody better at it than this young man. You’ve helped me immeasurably with my ‘09 F-150. Thank you so much!!! 👍👍👌
Thank you for making this video. My 2011 F150 gave me an error when trying to shift into 4X4 drive. Took it to the dealer and they wanted $552 to fix this very issue. I bought the part and fixed it in 15 min. This saved me hundreds. I can’t believe they wanted to charge (rip me off) me like that. Thank you!
Diagnostic time plus parts
What was the error message you we’re getting? I have a 2011 ford f 250 and I the message I’m getting is shift delay pull forward then followed by check 4x4
@@Jmacdonald224 I don’t remember honestly. I paid ford to diagnose it then bought the part and fixed it.
When the shift motor on my 2000 Ranger failed I found that problem in motor was that the springs be hind the motor brushes had corroded and failed.
I replaced them using springs from an Edelbrock carb.
Back in business for free.🤘
You are a few steps ahead of this guy 😂😂
Love this guy. Great teacher. Efficient videography. Clear explanations. Great tips on procedures. Teaches me a lot about my truck. Thanks so much. This is why TH-cam was invented.
Man I tell you. You really empower folks with knowledge. Confidence! Can’t thank you enough.
Man you make fixing my Ford fun. I don’t even have this problem (yet) but I’m ready to kick ass myself when I do! Thanks for what you do. I enjoy learning more about my F150
Fun? Wait for the timing misery!
My 94 ranger i just took the cover off the locating part. I cleaned the contacts and fingers then re assembled and has been working fine for over 10 years now.
Excellent info and guide to do this replacement. Replaced it my 2011 F150 Lariat with 260K mile. I found two things to add.
1-My new motor/actuator had weak plastic for the cable retention clips (in fact one side of it BROKE when inserting into the tab). I re-used the one from my prior motor/actuator and also zip tied it for extra security. (Would hate for it to dangle and get hung up on something and rip the cable).
2-I found that inserting the separate "Blue" wire BEFORE re-inserting the red retainer clip into the new shift motor makes inserting the blue wire into the connector MUCH EASIER. Thanks so much for the video and excellent guidance. What a low cost fix for something that I thought was going to be a major dealer item.
This video presentation helped me immensely. Clear concise explanations with great video shots. I bought the part, followed the instructions, everything went smoothly and it worked perfectly once done. One addition; I did pray before hand; Jesus is a great 2nd pair of hands.
Great guide - got my truck fixed without a hefty mechanic bill. Thanks so much!!
Did mine today. 2011 XLT with 200k+. Your channel is awesome. Thanks buddy.
Napa gave me the wrong part. Do you know the part #. I have 2011 xlt.😎
@@jameshoben2950 I used a non-OEM part, Dorman 600-105. Has worked as expected.
Did you have any problems with your hub actuators? My 4x4 failed a few months back but after that I started to have a vibration on my passenger side. All suspension is new. Not sure if the 4x4 not working is causing this issue
@@JohnTheMexicanic I’ve sold the truck. Worked great though.
Have to thank you for all your videos on here. Have a 2011 f-150 and have followed your videos on a number of issues. Dropping the front axle wasn’t fun by the way. I found the linked part for the transfer switch motor cheaper elsewhere online but gladly am paying more through your link to support you and your channel in what little way I can. Keep up the good work.
Great video. That motor and the vacuum hubs are the reason I opted for the Manual 4WD in my Super Duty. Its Been working great for me for 12 years now.
Yes and you have neutral.
009to090 I understand but I need to be able to switch in between frequently without stopping.
FordTechMakuloco in the morning smells of Victory!!
I had this motor go bad on my Chevy trailblazer a few years ago. Replaced it with Dorman part and had been functioning well so far. 18 yrs on the truck now
Thanks for the video. It makes it very easy to do the job. I was able to align the spline of the transfer case to the new motor by plugging the motor in and turning the 4 wheel hi/low switch. You may have to start the engine to get the motor to turn. Anyway I'm back in business.
I must be lucky then!!
I have a 2007 f150
410000 km have not changed that motor on the transfer case yet. Touch wood.
Great job thanks for sharing.
My 07 F150 is currently stuck in 4L
Outstanding Sir, thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge.
So many of us out here have no problem working on our vehicles and turning a wrench every now and then, But most often were just not sure where to start or what the process might entail.
Information is always extremely valuable that's for sure, but when you give your time that is the ultimate gift someone could share, thank you sir.
I don't even know if my 2006 F-150 XLT 4x4 is even engaging into either 4 hi or 4 low. It's the first vehicle I have that has 4x4, so I don't even know what it feels. One time when our yard was muddy, I had the truck set in 2 hi, and of course, would not move. So I switch it to 4 hi to see if I could get unstuck, I didn't hear a sound when switching, and when I tried moving, it felt as if I was still in 2 hi. It did show that 4 hi was engaged on the dash. So then I put it in neutral, switch to 4 low, I hear a clunk like I think it should, and I step on the gas a little bit, and it feels more torque like it should, but when I tried moving, it felt like only the rear wheels were spinning. One time when I was in a parking lot, I was turning and I could hear the front tires screeching when I was turning into a parking space. I switch to 4 hi and back to 2 hi, and when I turned again, there was no screeching. I feel like the differentials in the front and rear lock on their own. Sometimes when I turn onto a road, I can hear one of the tires in the rear dragging as if I had the rear diff locked. So I don't know what's up or what the problem is. I've had this truck for almost two years now and I don't even know if 4x4 works. I don't see uneven wear on the tires, it still has about the same amount of tread since the day I got it. But these problems aren't constant, and only happen once in a while.
On hard dry ground put it in 4 wheel drive, Make a thigh turn you should get a bucking from the front end if it's engaged.
My wife came home with a 06 F150 4X4 yesterday and gave it to me for my Birthday so yeah there are a few things wrong but great truck can’t believe I haven’t switched to ford earlier
Great video!
I have an '04 F350 4x4 (6.0). I just gotta share this fun ride. First, I'd like to note that I _have not_ solved my issue.
I thought this t-case motor going bad was my issue when my 4x4 wouldn't engage (the light wouldn't even come on on the dash when I selected 4-hi or 4-lo). Anyhow, I replaced the motor, and turned the truck on and tested it and VOILA, it seemed to work. Well, the plot thickens. Now, if I turn the truck on and immediately select 4, I can get it into 4 hi or lo, and hear the t-case motor engaging. But, if I drive it long enough in 4x, and then decide to put it back in 2, it will not shift back into 2 no matter what (fully stopped, in either neutral or park). Vacuum line fills, and doesn't turn on or off intermittently, and the vac line seems good. Setting the hubs to either auto or manual works fine after I engage 4x with the internal switch/through the t-case, so I'm getting vacuum on auto, and good lock on manual from the hubs.
So, I found out that I have to turn the truck off and then back on in order to have the actuation take place. If I'm driving for a while on the highway and decide to pull off somewhere that requires 4x4, I need to pull over, completely turn off the truck, then turn it back on (ON only, or cranking it over) before I can switch over. Same goes for being in 4x: I need to stop, turn the truck off, then turn it back on in order to disengage.
Strange. All of my fuses are fine under the dash, and the relays under the hood are brand new and they switch when I test them manually with a test light. Go figure, I'm stumped, and three shops have been stumped as well lol.
Meh, turning the truck off and back on is no big deal at this point, but it's a mystery to be sure.
Interesting. My F150 is now stuck in 4 low. Pulled a stump out and now it won't switch. Dash doesn't light up 4 high or 4 low anymore either
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Wow! Yours sounds like a seized T-Case, but if the dash light turned off, that means the relay is telling the computer that the T-Case is in the correct position.
I finally solved my issue, it was a loose connection AT the T-Case motor. When the truck would get "hot", the terminals would expand and slide away from contact. When it cooled off, the terminals would shrink and make decent enough contact for the relay to talk to the T-Case, and vice-versa.
Your issue could be hub & or vacuum related. Check for vacuum leaks. Jack up the front, check to see if your hubs are locked by spinning the tires. See if the front shaft spins freely or if it's locked. If the hubs are locked, then you know it's a hub/vac leak (usually manually unlocking them will work, or you can unplug the vac from the reservoir near the vacuum pump on the passenger side to remove all vac pressure).
The light not being on is why I aim the solutions more toward a hub seize, or a vacuum issue. The light is controlled by the computer, which gets its information directly from the relay sent from the T-Case. You could check the two relays under the hood on the driver side. They are two identical black relay switches (almost perfect black squares) under a black plastic cap which looks rectangular. They sit near either the driver side battery, or more toward the driver side firewall (around the outer edge of the DEGAS/coolant overflow bottle). Check the relays, or swap them, and see which one is bad.
Good luck!
Thanks Ford man for this video and I sure did save some money and now my F-150 4x4 is working
Just a thought, maybe this might work or not, you let us know Brian. If the new motor doesn’t line up with the shaft (due to not being in 2 High when the motor failed). Instead of turning the shaft by hand if it was stuck in 4x4 H or L, couldn’t you just hook up the wires to the new motor, and turn your 4x4 selector inside the truck until the motor lines up? Or would that cause any problems? Maybe works? Might be easier than turning by hand if drive line was loaded?
You are the very best. Always well video'd, with clear explanations. I'm admittedly a guy who doesn't even know where to put in blinker fluid but you give me hope. I appreciate your extensive knowledge. I can only watch and wish that I could competently do all this cool stuff. Watch and Learn. I am.
I wish you were here in Canada Brian I would give you all my Repaire work on my f-150. Great videos. Thanks
Another great video. I just completed this on my '08 F150. Only took about a 30min.
Did that fix her ? My 08 f150 is not doing anything when I shift into 4 high or 4 low. I replaced iwe solenoid and have vacuum down at both hubs.
Swapped out my rear shocks last week, and did the transfer case motor today. Nice and easy just like the vid. I really appreciate all the vids man, keep them coming. I need my 07 FX4 to keep going as long as it can!
you are the man it make things easy when you watch someone that knows what they are doing.
Truly a wealth of knowledge and a sharing person. Sharing knowledge is everything!!! Thank you!!!
I can't thank you enough for this video! I'm not very mechanically inclined but, this video helped me change my actuator motor with ease. Thanks again!
Should you disconnect the battery before poking around in that wiring harness, or are the connections dead with the ignition off anyway?
Hands down best repair videos/instructions I’ve seen so far! Thank you 👍🏻
I just performed this repair on my 2011 F150 Lariat. This video is dead on. Easiest repair I have made lately.
I got the same truck what message were you getting when trying to engage 4wd? Mine keeps saying shift delay pull forward then followed by a check 4x4 message
Only message popped up was check 4x4.
@@scottwilliams4888 gotcha yea mine will say both
I had that exact same problem on my 99 F150. It got stuck in 4 Low and I was able to figure it out on my own however I was unable to replace it right away I had to take the old one off manually put it in 2 wheel drive cover the spot where the shift motor goes until I could afford to get a new one. Very easy fix
Dan Cooney How did you turn that small shaft - do you have to be careful not to damage it?
@@leugbol I was just able to turn it with my fingers there is no stress on the transfer case so nothing was binding and was marked on the transfer case for 2-wheel 4 High and 4 Low it was quite easy to turn by hand
Hi, Enrico from Italy here, I have the same problem, my transmission is currently stuck on 4L. today I tried going back and forth shifting to N trying to get back to 2x4 but nothing would make it work. in your opinion, do I have the possibility to manually rotate the shaft to the 2x4 position? and the on-board computer recognizes the right position, if the shift position sensor Is down?
Thanks
Exactly how do you change manually if your trucks stuck in 4x4 mode?
I know you mentioned something about neutral but never really explained?
I really like that he is calm and his work is very very clean and he informs you of every little detail but he's real clear on everything thank you
Great step-by-step directions. I followed the instructions provided in your video and completed this repair on my truck. Thanks!
Good info! I had to replace the shift motor on my 98 Ranger, and this info was extremely helpful.
I’ve seen it recommended that the harness connector be filled with dielectric grease before it’s reconnected (along with all other underbody connectors). Thoughts?
No, in general Fords connectors are sealed very very well so I hardly see any corrosion issues connector side.
FordTechMakuloco What if It struggles to engage in 4x4 but if you can get it to it revs up and clunks?
YOUR VIDEOS HAVE THE BEST DETAIL AND INFORMATION THANK YOU..GOD BLESS
How do you like the OTC Encore? Can you do a review of it?
I actually had two faults one day, it was weird. I had this code and proved the shift motor to be bad, but when it was done 4WD still didn't work. It ended up being two faults, turns out the shift position signal return wire to the TCCM was broken as well. Replaced the harness up to the RF fender and a new shift motor.
Hey professor...That transfer case fluid (as opposed to mercon V) is becoming less (and less) available and more and more expensive...Is that still the only recommended fluid?...I hear noise about merc LV...?...If I heard if from you, I wouldn't have to wonder...Maybe sometime in the future you can address that...Again, thanks!!!
Yeah really that's a good question you should answer this guy
Ford told me to use mercon lv instead of transfer case fluid because they dont make it anymore.. they dont care much If my transfer case seizes so i would be interested to know if the mercon lv is also as good as transfer case fluid.
I've been using lv in my transfer cace for prob 5 years now and haven't had a problem
Motorcraft says mercon LV is now the approved fluid for all transfer cases.
Stop the guessing games and put Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid in it.
You couldnt have published this at a better time. Mine just got stuck, so thank you for the info!
Yes another great educational video. I own a 2012 Raptor and this is my Ford tech. If i lived in ChiTown Id be showing up to the shop weekly.
Thanks for the great in-depth explanation makes for a real time saving instal . FYI the part is up to $300+
Thanks for the video. This helped on my 2016 f150 with the 2.7 . That wire is a pain and the clip is white not red.
Noticed my oil drain plug is leaking , I doubt the dealership changed the o ring on it last time, was down half a quart , only been about 1800 miles since it was changed.
Do a video on the check valves for the vacuum lines. I was having an IWE click when under acceleration because of the loss of vacuum.
There is a video on that, check past videos. He shows how to diagnose issues with the iwe system.
If you are under warranty, there’s a fix. The check valve is replaced, if there is still a noise, many of the iwe’s actually separate plastic from the diaphragm.
What bout a video on replacing vacuum lines on the f 150 brian I think mine a clogged up or can I just shoot brake clean air it out with air wand really good
Do you have a video on rebuilding that transfer case? I took mine out to replace all the seals and want to make sure I put it back together correctly.
Enjoyed a cup of coffee while learning step-by-step with you. Would it be OK to zip-tie that blue wire to the other wires to secure it better? Or, is there some signal interference?
i have a 1990 bronco 2 mine went out. keep up the great work
Love the videos, always my go to if I get hung up on something!
Great vid I just wanna know how you settled on this being the problem of why 4x4 didn’t work? Thabks
You would make a great instructor for high school or tech school. Thanks again for the information.
My 2009 Ford F150 feels like it is stuck in between 4 high and 2-wheel drive could this be the problem? I've already changed the actuators in the hubs.
The Bracket is something alllllot of younger mechanics would not pay attention to, great tip on pushing it into position first.
So I get the Check 4x4 message when I turn to 4x4 high. Thoughts? 2011 ford f150
Subscribed. What if It struggles to engage in 4x4 but if you can get it to it revs up and clunks?
Is there a way to test your transfer motor BEFORE buying a new one? Or is "NO 4x4 action felt" an obvious result of motor failure? Also, I found one on eBay for $57.60 / free shipping. Is that a risk? (I have a 1994 Explorer 4x4, 185k miles)
I've answered my own question about an electrical bench test, see: Diag and Repair Transfer Case Motor: Mazda B4000/ Ford Ranger......
Thanks for the video.
My truck (2010 f150 fx4) has one wire coming out of the top of the transfer case like the one in your video.
All the parts stored round here have a motor for the two wire setup.
Would it cause an issue putting the one wire into one of the two holes (which one?)?.
My 2012 F-150 makes one heck of a grinding/thrashing noise when attempting to engage 4wd which it eventually does with a loud Clunk! Disengaging is hit or miss and take awhile. I wonder if this could be the cause?
Same here. My 2012 sounds like it's about to tear itself apart, serious grinding noise that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case
Thanks for the great video! Just one question... would I need to unplug the negative cable from the battery first?
@L J Thanks!
Seems to me, if you couldn't jack it, you could plug in the motor, and it should index to whatever state the transfer case was in when it died. If needs be, move the 4X4 selector switch to the desired position to have the motor match the transfer case spline. Seems a LOT easier than jacking up the truck.
Great how to video! My 2019 F150 4WD engages rough into 4 low and engages right into 2nd gear when i shift from neutral to drive. 4 H, 2h shifts smoothly Is this a transmission killer problem? under 10k miles.
You make a very professional and informative video thank you.
Can this cause the transfer case to hang up between 4low and 4high and grind the gears? My 2013 f150 is starting give me some grief.
Put it in neutral instead of gear when shifting out of 4 low.
I am very impressed with this video, very well done. We took our old motor off on a 2002 Ford Exp. 4x4 to test it. It turned OK but now the shaft on the motor does not line up with the transfer case shaft. So we turned the transfer case shaft to NEUTRAL position, and the motor shaft looks to be very close to alignment with the transfer case motor shaft. We have the transmission in Neutral position in car. Before we reinstall, we want to know if this is the proper way to do this when the motor shaft has been rotated from original position. Can you help us?
So it's a case of these units that it's when they fail not if they will fail .
I m amazed are so vulnerable AND so expensive when they go bad .What warranty do these have when new ?
Hi! Your videos have been great to help us with the random misfires we were getting, but now we are having shifting and sputtering issues around 70mph with RPMs between 4-5k for a while before it finally shifts, but is rougher and louder than usual even at slower speeds. We got the scanner and Forscan, and which is giving us codes P1867 and P1891 but no engine light. It i a 2005 Ford F-150. And we just replaced all coils and plugs, did timing job about a year ago, and transfer case leak fixed (thanks to your video) and compression test in all cylinders. What would be our next steps? Thanks again for all you do on here!
Thanks Brian for the info. I've worked a few Ford 4WD problems, never replaced the motor. The vacuum system and the 4LO switch. ( the switch turned on the 4LO indicator in the the cluster. These trucks were 2003-2004 models)
Do u know if that’s why I’m having problems reversing left or right on 4x4 ?
Wow! That was painless, even I can do this. Thanks for the video.
Another great video. A DIY job,as long as you watch this video.👍👍
Best info on this part that I have seen. Thanks
Good morning I have a 2008 f150 I change the 4x4 motor like you did in the video also the vacuum lines but still the 4x4 not coming on I check the fuse at the fuse box they all good also put new 4x4 on the wheels bearing too what else can it be need more info on this. Thanks
Very important information and easy to fixed....thank you ..👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
As a owner of a 08 Super-Duty, thank-you.
Perfect tutorial! Was easily replaced and correctly done to torque specs. Working like new!! Thanks!!
Another excellent tutorial Brian
Thanks for sharing your knowledge it has help me a lot
I got a question on a 2012 Ford F-150 that’s doesn’t start only cranks I need to know how to test the fuel pump module I got power and ground but the fpc and the fpm signals I don’t know how to test em
Any help is appreciated
Aight Brian, there’s nothing wrong with mine yet but Imma buy one cause you’re never wrong and I might as well be prepared for when there is
I have a question about the information shown on the DIC while selecting 4x4 modes. Occasionaly when selecting 4H it will say shifting in progress and most the time it will not. It does the same for auto 4 mode, 90% of the time it just says 4x4 mode. Now everytime 4L is selected, it will say shifting in progress. You can absolutely tell it locks in 4L. Now 4H only feels locked in if it says shifting in progress. Found out the hard way it did not engage trying to leave deer camp where 4x4 is a must. I disengaged it as it wasn't need after getting through the bad hole. This is my first Blue Oval venture and so far I'm liking my 07 Exidition EL. My first V8 in almost 30 years and I missed that torque.
I have a 2011 Expedition that will not switch into 4L... Says to roll forward to engage... I do, then put back into neutral and it tells me again to roll forward... 2wd 4A and 4H work perfectly though....
My motor was giving me all kinds of trouble. Ordered up my new motor off Amazon (a lot cheaper than the Ford parts website) and replaced it. Awesome directions in this video! My only question is what do I do with the old motor? Can it be refurbished?
Toss it in the recycling bin.
You are an honest and expert man and give the finest details in maintenance you are 👍
Thank you for making these videos! Wealth of knowledge!
Ford Engineer: I wonder if this wiper motor will work on a transfer case?
LOOL 😂😂😂
You know what never failed? Manual shift transfer cases. The good ole days!
@@goober1973 well mine is right now
@@goober1973 And manual locking hubs: not the vacuum pulse nonsense!
Funny as hell. Good one!
Since using my 4 wheel drive last week in the snow and of course changing the dial back to 2 wheel drive, it almost feels like it’s possibly still stuck in 4 maybe? When I first accelerate or come to a stop there is a vibration i can hear and feel that reminds me of being in 4 wheel drive. This sounds like it could be the problem/ solution?
Thank you and instructions are concise and easy to follow . . . replacing this part was a snap!
Can you do a video about how to replace the 4x4 hub vacuum lines on a 07 F-150 and possibly the part numbers for them, mine are all dry rotted and no longer lock into 4 wheel drive.
When snapping the connector back into place can you put a small amount of dielectric grease into the plug to help prevent corrosion?
Yes but it’s not needed
Thanks for the guide! I think my shift motor is OK, but.. I have a 1997 Expedition with 4wd, the 4h and 4l work just fine but the a4wd flashes and the auto doesn't work. Think it could be the shift motor or the sensors?
2004 F-150 4.6 - Does this part manage the synchronization of the transfer case when shifting from 4wd back to 2wd? My gears grind when going back to 2wd, and I have to turn off my engine to shift the transfer case back to 2wd. Other than that issue, the transfer case works fine.
I have a C1728 code. Front diff seems engaged when driving. I replaced shift motor 5 years ago with an Amazon special. Shifts into 4w just fine. I does say shift delayed sometimes. Thinking i need a new shift motor??
What I like about him is that he makes sure to clean the service area he's about to service. Dirt and grime can reduce the life of parts.
Juan Lagarde He definitely did because I drove it there from Michigan in the blizzard that we had last week so it was definitely not clean. Brian is the best!
I think these need the transmission to be in neutral to come out of 4 low?? I would lobe to see more of the diagnosis/troubleshooting. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Yes