Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- You can get the new solenoid version Here-
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This is the new Integrated Wheel Ends needed for the Repair (replace both)-
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In this video I show you how to diagnose the most problem prone part of the Ford IWE system, the vacuum system. No special tools required.
I replaced both front wheel hubs on my friends 2008 Expedition, thinking that was the noise.
After watching your videos I think I know what the noise is now.
Thanks a lot.
Big help and now I understand how the 4 wheel drive works on late model fords.
Did this fix the problem for his expedition?
@@boostedbadboyzx12r31 yes
Good info. Add to this: if the vacuum tests pan out and the solenoid is bad. Still check the actuators. What occurred in my truck was the solenoid must have gone bad. Vacuum wasn't enough to fully disengage the actuator. Hence, the 1/2 locked in actuator on passenger side ground off the 1st 3-4mm of teeth on the hub assembly. The actuator teeth actually remained mostly intact.
Thanks to FordTechMakuloko for this video. This helped me diagnose my issue quickly.
Dude do you have a patreon because this video has saved me from rebuilding my entire front end. If I had done that my problems would have still existed! Thank you!
I can't express how much frustration these videos alleviate. Thank you so much!
A
So good to have procedures for testing without pro tools!!!
This video was great - it did NOT show me what my problem was --- BUT by troubleshooting the way it was explained - I found my issue - the vacuum line was cut after the T -- thanks again you saved me down time on my truck and maybe a pricy repair before the true issue was located.
Yeah man...Sure enough my solenoid was shot...didn't even know it until I saw this video....
Ordered the part and temporarily direct-connected the line to free the axles for the first time in God knows how long...
Thanks brother...
by far the best source on TH-cam, always on point. Thank you
Thank you for explaining what each different test was testing, made my intermittent 4x4 diag go much smoother.
I have vaccum all the time after reading the through of operation on this system it tells me its my solenoid. I have checked fuses and I have power there I haven't had a chance to check voltage on the connector or continuity on the solenoid yet but seeing that I have vacuum I feel I am on the right track thanks for your video .
Thanks man your video helped me fix my truck. Without having to take it to the shop.
Lovely. I shall try these tricks tomorrow. It's snowed hard today...bad time to find out my 4x4 doesn't work. I'll update you tomorrow. **it's tomorrow- I had vacuum from the solenoid both in 2WHDR and 4WHDR and no lights on the instrument panel--m'thinks it's both, a faulty solenoid and a transfer case shift motor**
What a Trainer! Awesomly simple directions !!! Thank YOU!
Thanks for the video!
My 2007 f150 4 wheel wouldnt engage. I Checked the vacuum solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i just replaced it.
But... It did not work. Truck had no error code.
So when i would put the truck in 4, the vacuum from the top port would not stop.
So the tranfer case switch must have to be working to ground out the solenoid for it to work.
I replaced the transfer case switch ($210). And that fixed the 4 wheel drive.
Make sure to check opposite side for a broken hose. Mine was broke in half right behind the tire. 2 small hose connectors for 5 bucks fixed it. Chased it for months. Was checking the vac suction at the iwe and found it.
Once you understand it, it's really not a complicated system. Actually easy to diagnose. You can also bypass the system by capping the vacuum lines so that you can drive the vehicle to get repaired.
Thank you sooooo much ! I found out I had a bad solenoid, replaced it, all good. One thing though...even though the actuators are disengaged now, I'm still getting the whinning "bad bearing" noise. I have no play in the wheel when rocking top and bottom of tire. Not sure where to go from here. Sound coming from driver floor panel like it's still at front left tire or front diff.
+BarrelOfRum1 the iwes get damages from the failed solenoids, all three should be replaced together.
oh okay, I figured that, just wanted to know before I did it. Thank you again for the video ! This was driving me nuts !
Thanks for the great video! This helped me troubleshoot & fix my problem in no time.
Thanks so much, I noticed my 08 steering was harder than usual and a humming sound for a while, while repairing flange bolt on my exhaust I lean on the front tire and noticed turned the axels and 4x4 driveshaft... I thought 💭 huh is this right, I feel I’ve been driving in 4x4 for months now..
I have a 2001 Ford F-150. I put it in low 4wd and now It won't go back in 2wd. I appreciate your help.
My 2006 f150 has this issue, I’ll check these areas thanks so much!
thanks your video is simple and accurate.
Will one actuator stop the system from engaging. And what else should I look in to if everything checks out fine from what you check in the video
What happens when you do all these checks and you still get squeaking, chirping, and rubbing noises in the front end? I think what’s happening is one is freeing up and the other is staying locked causing my spider gears to turn at half the speed of the wheels. Could it be a sticky solenoid that opened sometimes and not others? I’ve checked my hubs and lines with a vacuum pump and everything seems to work cleanly. Fords answer is to just unplug the vacuum line before the solenoid and let the whole axle turn all the time.
Very helpful video, but what if at the wheels I get vacuum on the passenger side but not the driver side?
Chris Bono They split up top so check the vacuum lines over to the drivers side even under the convolute tubing they like to crack especially on curves.
Thank you. I figured it out. When I replaced my front shocks I tightened a nut right onto the vacuum line. All fixed now though.
FordTechMakuloco Hi,I did the check like u wrote I disconnected the solenoid and put one hose back to the solenoid on 2 wd vacuum is comingout the solenoid and put on 4 wr still having vacuum coming out is that mean my solenoid is bad,because on 2 wd making grinding sound but stop when when I switch to 4 wd and the 4 wd working well on 4 hi and 2 lo,thanks need help
Thanks for the how to as well as the general "how it works" info.
4x4 question:::
jack front up, 2wd, spin front tires by hand - driverside spins freely.
Passenger side the CV AXLE spins with tire.
how do I manually disconnect the cv axle from spinning? 4x4 not needed at this time.
thank you!
Great video, thanks. I went through all checks, and it seams the left side iwe is failing. When in 4x4 and wheels up left side engages axel while turning wheel backwards, but not forward right away. Like a ratchet. Then will engage, is this a sign that it is about to fail.
Thanks again
I read through all of the Comments. 2007 F150 No Lights come on, switch resistance is good, transfer case motors works with 12v supplied. The IWE never loses ground no matter switch position(unless key off), the CW &CCW relays don't either. I have jumped the motor into 4WD Low and the light on dash show 4LO. but it would not go back to 4HI or 2WD with switchSo it still seems as tho its an Input issue, fuses are good, switch wires to PCM pin 31&32 are good.I'm at a loss seems like bad PCM, or I see there is some ABS input needed for 4wd. I get no codesHelp!
I have a 06 Ford F 150. I lost my transmission. no drive some reverse. I put 2 containers of transition fix. As directed now I do have drive when I rev the motor high. Same for reverse.Will check with a Transition shop.
I have a 06 Ford F 150. I lost my transmission. no drive some reverse. I put 2 containers of transition fix. As directed now I do have drive when I rev the motor high. Same for reverse.Will check with a Transition shop.
I have a 06 Ford F 150. I lost my transmission. no drive some reverse. I put 2 containers of transition fix. As directed now I do have drive when I rev the motor high. Same for reverse.Will check with a Transition shop.
I'm having that Grinding noise on my 2014 f150.
I have tested vacuum at the wheel ends and there's 23 lb. The solenoid is switching on and off.
I tested both iwes and they hold vacuum at 15 lb without leaking.
The truck only makes the grinding noise when it is cool in the morning below 55°. Once the truck is driven and warmed up. It does not make the noise again. I have ordered a new check valve and waiting for it to arrive from Ford.
Hi Makuloco! Thanks for the video. I think I have isolated the problem to the transfercase motor harness. The conector has been corroded. How may I properly clear the terminal's pins? Thanks for your help
Same problem, the vacuum stuff all checks out but 4x4 won't engage. Think it's back with the transfer case. I guess that's a different diagnosis video.
I have been tracking my issue down and finally got it resolved. I had one IWE not holding vacuum so first replaced that. I normally put the gauge directly on the IWE to see if it will hold vacuum. Then it was somewhat fixed but would just barely grind after a slightly longer period of time than before. Checked my lines and check valves and replaced a couple check valves. Still not fixed. Then I checked my reserviour behind the battery and it was starting to come apart on the bottom! I ended up using some permatex to reseal the reserviour halves back together and Its been holding proper vacuum. All is good now. Have you ever seen those come apart?
Yes we have seen this before.
So I did all the checks and my vacuum lines are getting vacuum and the solenoid seems to be working correctly however I had to replace both the 4wd actuators. One was replaced about a year or two ago for broken mounting ears and I didn’t see that the other side was broken as the truck sat for some time and was a gift to me by my father in law. So I went ahead and replaced the drivers one a few weeks ago along with a new wheel hub and now the 4wd actuator grinds and I took it apart again and it’s grinding down the teeth almost like it’s not fully disengaging. Could this mean I need new vacuum lines or check valves ? I had vacuum at that wheel but it seemed less than the passenger side and the line did get a tear in it that had since been fixed. Great video a lot of straight forward info that helped a lot I’m always looking up your f150 videos for the best info. Thanks
So I have a 2005 F150 4x4 that I have been fighting the "grinding noise" since I bought it last year.. I have replaced the solenoid, complete vacuum line assembly, and both front actuators.. I still have the grinding noise.. And it grinds whether I'm in 2wd or 4wd mode. It only happens at stop - start with the wheels in a turn, like at an intersection. At speed no problems.. In the morning on the way to work when truck is cool, no noise at all... even at slow speeds. What's my next likely culprite.. ?? Front Hub/Bearing Assym. or CV Axel Assym. Any ideas would really be helpful??
Joseph Schneider Yes make sure everything is installed correctly first then inspect the meshing teethe on the cv shaft and backside of the hub to make sure it is smooth and not chewed up.
Hi Makuloco! The IWE solenoid in my truck did't recveice the GND signal form the TCCM. I still without fix the 4X4. My truck it's a f150 2010 FX4
I already check:
I already replaced all the vacuum lines (where very toasted).
IWE motors are working fine if I disconnect the vacuum hoses. Those engage/disengage the front wheels shaft.
The IWE solenoid fuse it's fine
12V at IWE solenoid it's present at Grey/Red cable.
NO GND signal present at IWE Solenoid at Brown/Blue cable
You have an issue with the transfer case shift motor not moving when commanded this can be an external electrical issue or more commonly the transfer case shift motor has lost position due to the internal contact plate. Check the codes first.
the motor should move quite a bit
Arturo Garcia
So if after I put in 4 with the bottom supply line connected to the solenoid and it continues to blow air that’s got to be a bad solenoid, right?
What are your thoughts on the vacuum actuator delete that Dorman offers?
Thanks
I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints ony 4x4 f150 2006. Prior to that the 4x4 system was working fine. As soon as I replaced the suspension parts i noticed the hub locks were grinding. I replaced both. Then ran the truck and grinding stopped in 2wd, but when I put it on 4wd it gets stuck when I turn, if I go straight it runs but seems like something is preventing it from running smoothly. I even heard a loud clunk once when o turned. maybe i didn't align the CV joint correct? I am getting vacuum at the hub locks.
How much vac should i have at idle my 2010 is throwing a check brake system light for low vac pressure
Mine is stiff steering, a popping grinding banging sound....and brake pedal falls..... what to do? Thanks
I have an 04 F150 FX4 with a clicking sound from the drivers side front. I changed the hub, and tie rod end because they were going anyways, but the sound was still there. I looked at the vacuum line after and it’s completely broken away from the solenoid. I can only imagine that is my issue :(
HELP! So I have a 2005 expedition 4x4 Eddie Bauer. I’ve noticed the front drive axle is spinning despite the 4 wheel drive not being engaged. I believe that the front system is rotating due to friction at one of the front wheels vs the IWE being locked. While the truck is stopped in drive and brake set I can rotate the front drive axle with my hand which will allow the front half shafts to rotate as well. I also verified that the front vacuum lines are pulling vacuum by removing the lines from the hubs and can feel a strong suction. Maybe this isn’t a big deal but I’m under the impression that the front drive axle shouldn’t rotate unless 4x4 engaged. Of note the truck has a 3 inch lift making the front half axles set at a more acute angle. Thanks for any help.
can that silonode be a source of a vacume leak cause my truck to idle bad?
I have a 2011 ford F150 xlt. I looked for the selinoid by the brain box, and there was nothing there. My 4x4 is working. I'm just interested in where the seliniod is in my truck. I do have a seliniod attached on the brake booster that looks like the one for the 4 wheel drive system. I'm I right or wrong.
Awesome explanation!
Thank you
Aloha Thank you for the amazing videos! I've Learned so much. Got a question for you. Have you ever come across a f150 4wd that one side will disengage but the other will not? I've replace hubs, actuators, vacuum hoses, solenoid and still the driver side will not disengage from 4wd so I'm having to drive with the solenoid caped to let both wheels spin with the transfer case off. otherwise when I drive the passenger side tire vibrates trying to catch up to the driver side. then i put it in 4wd and the vibration goes away, due to both wheels moving at the same rate while the 4wd is on.. I'm stumped... I've gone as far as ordering new cv axles incase perhaps something is happening there.. any thoughts? Mahalo for any help.
My 09 seem to engage at low idle, like backing out of the driveway.
Can you help possibly i changed my iwes on both sides and tge 4x4 engages with the axels spining but they are not engaging with the wheels even when i unplug the vaccume hoses it still doesnt engage with the wheels
Thanks for the great video! I have 2 Q's for you I hope you'll answer for me:
1. Do the instructions also apply to 2007 F250 Super Duty 4x4?
2. Do even these symptoms sound like vacuum issue or something more mechanical?
* Won't engage 4WD
* When I tap brake at lower speeds I can hear a clunk on and off from drivers side wheel
* Rattling when going over bumps from same wheel while driving city speeds with window open
Karl Airey On the F250 they are different you have vacuum hub of the regular kind. Pop out both sides and remove them go for a drive to see if the noise goes away. Yours has a turn lock for manual 4wd correct?
FordTechMakuloco Yes that's right. So you mean pop out both locking hubs?
Update: I just had a good look without going on the hoist yet - that happens tomorrow - and found the brake caliper is literally hanging off! A bolt had sheared off. Likely never properly tightened at the car lot I bought her from. No bolts in town so had to overnight them. So that will fix the noise I'm hearing for sure. Will properly test 4WD once caliper repaired. Thanks.
Don't know if you still monitor this video's comments but I need your help with the 4wd. I found a blocked check valve going to the vacuum solenoid but bypassing or replacing it did not fix the problem. With my 2004 F150 FX4, the 4wd selector switch does not appear to do anything. The 4wd indicators on the dash do not light up when moving the selector switch nor do I hear anything engaging.
Do you have any ideas or recommendations? Thank you.
Hi. Great video. Thank you.
I have a suspicion on some kind of a IWE system vacuum leak on my 2006 F150. It makes grinding sounds when driving uphill. I did all the testing steps following your video and my truck passed. Yayy? Nope... Do you have any suggestion on how to test "under load" condition? Pressing the throttle with jacked up front end doesn't do it.
So if there is no vacuum in the main line (the one that has vacuum at all time when the engine is running) What you think it should be the problem?
I went through the whole testing process, everything worked, but my 4x4 is still not engaging. Still saying "check 4x4". I was not having any codes, then briefly for a day had p2096. Hope this helps, please advise.
so meaning wheels moving free means that 4x4 not activated right
Was the noise only when turning?I have the same truck w 130 thou😂Only I feel the grinding after moving from a stop and only when turning right.This is the only time I feel it like you said on drivers side .
Ok I have vacuum up top by the solenoid but not on the wheel end .Haven’t replaced the solenoid for a new one do that means it’s time for that I guess ?
unless I find a leak in the lines along the way?
What about vaccum up top but no vaccum below. Just replaced the actuator and still no vacuum below
I have vacuum up on top, but I don't have it down at the bottom towards the actuator. Does that mean a damaged hose??
Alright mr ford. I replaced my iwe. Works fine in 4x2,all lines,solenoid, work fine. But in 4x4 H and turning left it clunks/pops and binds,shop THINKS its the bearings.....im not so sure. Its fine in 4x4 going straight as well.
+tamorra delong This is normal on dry pavement it's called axle windup
Normal? Its normal for my truck to clunk/pop while turning left in 4x4? It literally locked up my drivers side tire. It sounds like the gears are separating while turning or are not fully meshed together when i turn. But this is normal? Ive never had a 4x4 do that. And apparently since i bought the truck its been turning the front like the iwe was stuck.
Yes it is called axle or driveline wind up and is normal on dry pavement, all true 4x4 model do this. The way you can tell if it is excesive or not is to take it on a slippery or loose surface like gravel.
FordTechMakuloco reeeeeally..... here and i thought there was something terribly wrong with my truck. It sounds like theres something seriously wrong. But im no mechanic, ive just never had a 4x4 sound like that. Well then guess ill just replace the ball joint i ruined while fixing the iwe.
Thanks by the way, u just saved me a ton of money lol.
Thanks for the video, Bill
I did exactly what u said everything seemed to b working fine except for when I put the truck on 4h. The air stopped coming out of the top nipple then I put it in 4L and it did the same, so when I put it back on 4x2 nothing happened. The air did not start flowing threw. Does this mean the solenoid is shot?
2010 fx4 120 miles
4 low works fine but 4 high I have nothing. I haven't checked anything out yet but it throws me off since 4 low still works. Any information would be greatly appreciated
Hey can it be that randomly down the road these can loose vacuum and make a grinding noise
My only engaged 4 low ,...4 hi don't work no light in the dash? Why only 4 low work?
awesome! In the middle of diagnostic now. 4x4 "kicking out" Is there a reason there would be TWO solenoids? I've got an extra one that is disconnected. 2005 FX4 offroad 5.4ltr. ??
No there was two solenoids on the older trucks but anything 2004 and newer there is only one.
installed new "rain hood" solenoid kit and removed old two-solenoid set. Correct; I'm not original owner and I figure the guy before me replaced original and bought a junk-yard set off an older model with two and had a "spare." I'm going with the new rain cover model so I shouldn't need a spare.
same mount location though. Rain cover kit bolted to the same holes old pair were mounted to. ??
Yep bolts right up, and correct you won't need to keep the old one as a spare the new ones definitely are a permanent fix.
2:29 OK just so I don't get too confused, the IWE is always sucked in and that releases the 4x4?
yes
@@FordTechMakuloco interesting, so my 4x4 does not kick in, but 4x4L seems to engage but not the front . It appears that the TC is working, and causing the 4x4L to scream because it is not good to exceed 20-30mph. both H/L have zero binding on dry pavement .
Start with the IWE FIRST? That is why I'm a little confused. It sounds like there is constant vacuum regardless of the dial pos. Making me think the IWE is not transferring vacuum. What do you think?
Had it at the dealership for another issue, they glanced at the 4x4, said possible IWE.
Is the underhood setup different for 2010 F150s? My battery is right behind the passenger headlight and I don't see anything that looks like the solenoid on the passenger side firewall. I traced the vacuum tube up from the driver's side IWE and it goes to what looks like the solenoid from your video, but it's mounted on the vacuum reservoir right by the steering column instead of near the battery. In one of your other videos, it looked like there should be two solenoids, but I can only find one.
I can cancel the solenoid conecting the vacum of engine directly to locks hubs while i buy the solenoid? (1-2 weeks), i don't think use the 4wd for the moment, 99% of time the truck drive is on pavement
08 f150. I'm getting vaccume to the hubs with truck on with the test you did but my half shaftspins too. Getting 20lbs of vac at hose that go to hub. I just replaced the actuators. What is going on. Thanks in advance
When performing these test should the solenoid be plugged in?
Yeah amd the car on!
Very helpful video THANK YOU!
Can dirt in the vacuum system cause intermittent problems? I get the rattling but couldn't duplicate it (of course) at the dealer on my 2012
I have an 2010 f150 4x4 and I got all the vacuum up top but down by the wheels when I pull the lines of there is no vacuum,does that mean I go a leak in the lines going down
I’ve had my truck in and out of shops including dealerships since April now and no one can solve my IWE issue. The check valve, solenoid, hose assembly, and IWEs have all been replaced at this point and there is still grinding. I’m at a total loss and so are all of these shops. Any ideas? Could a leak elsewhere in the motor be causing problems?
No one replied?!? Damn man ppl suck
Thanks for the video. My problem (2011 F150 5.0L) is that the 4wd at the wheels engages and disengages properly (you can hear them click) when the engine is off (with the key on). However, when the engine is running, it does not engage or disengage. I replaced the solenoid with no luck. Since it's holding in 2WD I assume I have sufficient vacuum. What else could be at fault here?
Transfer case solenoid
With the solenoid elctric unplugged I get no vacuum thru only when solenoid is plugged in?
thanks again for the video,i'll try this. my prob is,, (on a 2005 f150) i have replaced both wheel bearing hubs,,vacuum hubs,,,and the vacuum solenoid. i am STILL getting the clicking/ dragging metal sound intermittently on the passenger side. any ideas? thanks again ! i was told the new vacuum hub might have been bad? think ill try the vacuum lines before changing that hub again.
+wolfcalls I have the same issue on my 2009 King Ranch. Replaced all of the same stuff and still will not engage and if it tries it grinds and sounds horrible.
have a smoke test done on your vacuum lines. i found a slight leak on one of the actuator hubs,, that was causing the problem. would NEVER had found it with out a smoke test. the actuator that was leaking caused the noise on the opposite side. hope this helps.
great video... my front tires don't spin in 4wd, I got stuck the other day, neither one was turning, 4wd light was on inside truck. I was told most likely culprit was solenoid on the differential. is this really that common? I could hear inside relay..
Aimee Ryan What year vehicle and model
Having same issues with my 2005 f 150 stx
Ii have a 99 Ford Expedition 4x4. When I'm in 4X4 low and creeping around a turn I hear a sharp banging noise that seems to come from the right front of the vehicle. Ford claims it's in the transfer case, but the sound is definitely coming from the right front, not the transfer case. In regular AWD there is no such noise. I'd like to hear what you think that might be. Thanks in advance.
John Bravo In 4x4 low I wouldn't do any sharp turns unless in snow or loose gravel. Axle wind up and popping is normal in that situation.
FordTechMakuloco I was creeping down a steep switchbacking dirt road trying not to wear out my brakes, guess I'll have to think up some other way. I had a Bronco that would handle such roads, maybe a shorter wheelbase is the answer
I’m getting a grinding/rumble strip feeling when 4wd is engaged. It goes away when I put it back in 2wd. I have a have good vacuum to both iwe. Any thoughts? I’m thinking one of the actuators might be shot.
I have a 2011 f150 and the IWE has vacuum and disengages the hubs as it should and engages when I pull the hose to disrupt the vacuum. I may have missed it on here somewhere, but what if the IWE does not engage the hubs? The check 4x4 warning comes on the dash when I shift it, no sounds, no clicks, nothing. before I could audibly tell when the 4 wheel drive engaged. Checked all the fuses and tested my power going to my shift motor on the transfer case and detect no change from selecting 2x to 4x which is leading me to believe my issue is between the switch and the shift motor/IWE. Any suggestions?
Not sure how much you read these comments but, went to replace the iwe on driver side but after having the truck jacked up I noticed in 2WD and 4H the iwe was working as it should and spinning the CV shafts when they should. Could my iwe still be the cause of the grinding issue? I checked with the truck running and was getting vacuum down to the iwe. So now I'm lost.
No 4x4 lights come on the dash when turning the switch to 4x4. When turning the key to start the truck the lights come on then go off. So the lights do work in the dash. I changed the switch,soleniod,actuater on the transfer case, the two relay fuses by the front driver fender,and all fuses are good. Did your vacuum test just now and it's working right without the wires hooked up to the solenoid. Hooked up the solenoid wires turned to 4x4 and still had vacuum and it's a new solenoid. It acts like I'm getting no power to my switch because no dash light 4x4 comes on? Can you help with this issue please?
I'm sorry it's a 2008 ford f150.
I have a 2010 F150 XLT 4x4, I just engaged the 4H and I got the 4x4 check and it intermittently shifted in 4H and back to the check. Would this be the Solenoid or the transfer case shift motor?
So here's my question. Is the axle supposed to turn when 4x4 is off on the driver's side. Because with 4x4 on the wheel wont spin. With off it will. But the axle spins freely with the wheel.
@@muskokamike127 so on in 2 wheel the wheels spin freely but the axle spins as well. With 4x4 on the wheels dont spin at all. Is this correct?
Does this same system apply to 2020 model year f 150.
I have a 07 f150 4x4 and I notice lately a whinning sound as the speed goes up the sound goes up, with the front tire;s on the ground and the switch on 2L the front drive shaft only move a few inches in either direction is that right or could this be my problem with the whining sound
In 2wd they should roll free if not you must check the vacuum source to the iwe.
i have a weird problem. 4hi works fine. whe i go to 4low it will only work when it wants to. sometimes it gets stuck on 4lo. i have to roll it and doesnt work always. i replaced the transfer case motor. replaced 2 relays for 4x4 in enginebay. replaced the 1 skinny relay. 4x4 fuses fine. actuators work fine. its just 4low when i run into problems. transfer case has oil. i am doing this in neutral. help! 04. f150 fx4
So when I disconnected top hose from solenoid and started it upni didn't get any vacuum out of the top port. When I unhooked the bottom it does have have vacuum on it. Any ideas.
Old vid I know lol but a question for you, I just picked up a 05 f150 lariat 4wd. I switch to 4wd.
4wd dash light turns on
But still only 2wd
I hear tcase motor
Replaced firewall solenoid
I have vacuum
did you ever figure it out, I have similar problem. sometimes when switched to 4 if I take off fast from a stop in the snow it grinds and crunches in front area... I just found my driver side vacuum line wasn't even connected but now I'm afraid to try driving in 4 lol, I can't afford a new vehicle or costly repairs
i have a 97 f150 with a low range light on all the time... but its in 2wd. when i move the selector switch i hear no clicking in the dash ... is there a relay in there on the left side somewhere? i saw another video by you guys that said that there was... i get constant vacuum to the 2wd solenoid but nothing coming out to the top port. any ideas? its at night so ill check for voltage in the morning to the solenoid. i also tried a know good selector switch to no avail...
Ok so one side of the big tube to the hub isn’t getting vacuum but the side that is getting vacuum the hub is spinning with the tire in 2wd, what do i do?
Scratch that, connected other side tube and only one hog is still spinning
This really is a good video. By far superior to anything else out there! I'd appreciate your help with my 06 f150. When I engage 4wd, it doesn't engage. The 4wd light on the instrument cluster doesn't light up. I checked the solenoid and have vacuum regardless of switch position. The IWE's are working properly. My problem now is trying to understand if the switch or the solenoid is bad or both. With an ohm meter, I get an open circuit on the solenoid, suggesting it is bad. What bothers me is that when I check voltage on the connector for the solenoid, it reads 14 volts, regardless of the switch position. Should I get different readings at the connector as I move the switch from 2wd to 4wd? Thanks for any help.
You will get 12v at all times on the pink wire and the ground should be switch by the pcm, check this with a load on it light bulb etc. If the 4x4 light is not coming on there is an identifiable problem in the system likely in the transfer case shift motor I would get the codes read in the pcm.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the help. This is turning into a intermittent issue. The unit will work occasionally. The transfer case motor is the apparent culprit, though. By LIGHTLY banging on it when it would not engage, I have been able to get the unit working and it has continued to work consistently. I know this will only work for a period of time, but hopefully will get me through the season.
I'm having an odd issue with an 03 Expedition. IWEs are released in 2WD as I can rotate each front wheel without the cv shaft rotating. However when I have all 4 wheels in the air, in 2WD mode, the front propshaft rotates with vehicle speed and the front diff is spinning both front cv shafts. With the IWE's released, the wheels do not rotate, but from my understanding, the entire front driveline should be disconnected in 2WD mode. Am I looking at a TC issue, or is this mode of operation normal?
Can this cause a grinding sound when acculatoring? All the parts are brand new but still having a grinding sound on the passenger side when I acculate.
Yes if you have a vac leak, check the vac lines running from the solenoid to the iwe for cracks. If it grinds on accel and you flick it into 4wd will it stop?
FordTechMakuloco when its in 4wd it drives perfect. The solenoid has been replaced. Every time something is replaced it works for a whole 10 minutes and starts up again.
Fordtechmakuloco haveing 4wd problems got new solenoid got vacuum up top my iwe hold vacuum but when I check my lines can't get vacuum right side wheel is hard to turn left side turns but c v axels turn just ordered a hole new vacuum line kit what can I do plz help thanks
f2500 2000 7.3L light does not come on when switching to 4x4 any ideas ?
Jv Lewis Go right for the transfer case shift motor, does it make noise and try to shift. Also I would get codes read then you will know for sure if the internal plate failure code is set.
Mine always has vacuum weather in 2or w wheel what do I check now?
I don't think my hubs are locking in so ill definitely check all that it's a 99
2010 f150 4x4 , when making slow sharp turns the driver side hub pops when in 4x4 on pavement, is this normal and should I just not be in 4x4 while on pavement making sharp turns? I did take wheel off and see a split in the vent tube near the hub, cut it off and reattached
its not good to drive then on dry pavement
I have a 2011 fxr and when I engage 4 hi it kicks in and out unless I stop and put in neutral and reverse any ideas?
tandm boyd Still sounds like IWE'S is yours making any noise in the front end?
FordTechMakuloco no noise unless in 4x4 and I don't stop and put it in neutral first.