Sounds kind of sketch, considering piston slap on cold starts is normal for this conversion??? Eh, maybe I'll give it a shot when the other engine is built and this one can get sent to the moon 😂
@@VeteranRevivals He mentioned that in the video, I guess it was an old dirt track thing back in the day. I planned on doing that on mine as well as running solid roller lifters instead of hydraulic with a tame hydraulic cam. I don't drive mine everyday and only when it's AZ "warm" so piston slap shouldn't be too bad. I'll let you know. 😎👍
"Nope, I'm an idiot. Didn't put the thrust plate on" [I was still laughing from you approaching the engine with the timing set upside-down @03:10 - and the "Torque Spec Gag"] This is SO relatable.
I got a heat reducing spacer for my upper and lower intake on my 89 stock mustand 5.0 for around $100 back in mid 90s. that really reduced the heat of the upper intake and made a noticeable increase in power
@@VeteranRevivals I only had a few bolt on part for my stang. I also had a blaster two ignition coil. K&N air filter underdrive pullies and magna flow mufflers with pipes. I wanted to do more but I was living in a condo community in Atlanta at the time so that limited my abilities greatly. BBK has some parts you should look at in the future.
I just tore down my 95 5.0 as well as another 5.0 I got when I bought a set of new in box svo y302 cylinder heads also I have done this in past on countless other builds as well as had a tank I use to soak parts in blocks heads exc I learned long ago during my first summer working for uncle at his automotive machine shop he taught me that kerosene is absolutely the shit to use also when you heat it oh boy words of wisdom keep it far away from flames sparks exc if you are going to use kerosene especially if you heat it 😮. I used a plastic 55 gallon drum with some heating elements let the last oil leak that baked on the block of the 302 sit for about 3 days block looks great oil gallery all brown stains and that layer of burnt conventional oil all over the crank is gone it was all floating on top I then took a pig pad and let it soak all the oils off top of kerosene
I personally was rebuilding my car for the factory EFI. But after my son's carbureted car, I've decided mine will be carbureted also. Since you already have EFI, it's no doubt cheaper and easier to stay EFI and get tall valved covers and a spacer. But it'll probably run better and definitely be easier to diagnose with a carburetor. If I were where you are, I'd just get the spacer and valve covers.
🎉. Ha . The audio is epic 😄. 7:50 Didgeridoo. 2:38 Lollypop Guild. 4:17 Mr. Can you spare a penny? Engine is looking good so far. Can't wait to hear it Run and light em up!! Don't worry so much about the dust. That's all part of the break-in procedure. Extra break in paste. 😅
Hi man look I think your doing great on your builds and your videos so let em keep on hating on you it's not going to stop you for being a great content maker😊😅😂
You can’t adjust those rockers like that. You have to put the cylinder at top dead center then adjust the intake and exhaust on that cylinder then turn the crank and do the next cylinder in line of the firing order. 13726548 is the firing order.
Adding 3/4 turn preload is just adding 3/4 turn preload. It doesn't matter where the lifter is in it's cycle. Lash has to be checked at base, but preload on a stud roller rocker is just preload.
Hello, I have a bronco with a 302 EFI engine and GT40 head, I would like to install some 1.6 roller rockers, could you recommend a model? Should I change the push rods?
The roller rockers I used for this video are pretty good, I changed the pushrods because these were worn and unusable. If your pushrods are in good condition you may not have to change them.
Should have just LS swapped it😂😂😂…..i have a roller 302 in the garage i have to build too for my sons ‘67 mustang….but id be lying if i said i didnt wanna throw one of my spare LS motors in there……..fox body is an easy LS swap …first gen 60’s mustangs…..not so much!!!……although the 302 were building has aluminum heads with 58cc chambers and better flat top pistons with a higher compresssion ring hieght (from summit) giving us around 10:1 compression give or take depending on head gaskets…..we have all the parts except for the cam….im thinking a 211/220 cam with a 2300/2800 stall in the c4 trans….aiming for about 325hp or somewhere in that neighborhood…….and thats not easy or cheap to do on a small block ford by any means….unless you got boost or laughing gas!!!…..i can get that easily with just a nice tune on a iron 4.8 LS truck motor and damn near 400hp if i were to throw the right cam at it ……litterally for pennies on the dollar compared to the ford 302……but whats done is done and we already have a pile of BRAND NEW parts including the NEW aluminum heads and pistons to go into the freshly machined block…….i already swapped the original C code 289”s garbage intake and 2 barrel carb to a performer RPM intake and an ACE’s killshot EFI unit that will easily swap over to the built 302 when the time comes…..so at the end of it all the kid is gonna have a pretty stout and reliable well laid out late model roller cam efi 5.0 in that old original C code coupe (Fremont car)……..bay area car since day 1……, if it were up to me though when its all said and done, Id sell it for a nice profit and buy a GM product that would easily accept a LS swap in literally 1 weekend……any pre ‘75 GM car would work for me…..preferabbly a 2 door unless its a suburban or a cool malibu wagon or vista cruiser…..but hey, kids nowadays have horrible taste in vehicles
😂😂 all the swap parts for the LS is what costs the 💲💲. Rebuilding all of this with the cam and rockers was about $1100, so it was hard to not give it a try for now.
Pistons...sorry I thought you had mental telepathy 😂😂..did on my buddy stock eliminator car and picked up a little just by changing 1 with 5 and so on. Kind of like a hidden piston stroke
Maybe the people questioning your abilities should come to your house and put the engine together for you, otherwise it’s none of their business. You don’t owe them an explanation.
Damn man, you’re so chill and relatable. Love watching your videos sir 🫡
Haha ,thank you for watching 🤙
Neomustag did a video a while back ago with swapping the pistons around.
Sounds kind of sketch, considering piston slap on cold starts is normal for this conversion??? Eh, maybe I'll give it a shot when the other engine is built and this one can get sent to the moon 😂
@@VeteranRevivals called flipping the pistons to increase compression.
@@VeteranRevivals He mentioned that in the video, I guess it was an old dirt track thing back in the day. I planned on doing that on mine as well as running solid roller lifters instead of hydraulic with a tame hydraulic cam. I don't drive mine everyday and only when it's AZ "warm" so piston slap shouldn't be too bad. I'll let you know. 😎👍
"Nope, I'm an idiot. Didn't put the thrust plate on"
[I was still laughing from you approaching the engine with the timing set upside-down @03:10 - and the "Torque Spec Gag"]
This is SO relatable.
😂😂 dude this is my life, all day everyday
I fell ya' Brother.
The hesitation and self-doubt is palpable.
Reported.
"I'm in this video and I don't like it".
😂
Your doing aa great job on the build and another Mustang will be saved 👍🏁
Hell yeah, thanks! 🤙🤙
Love all this, ill be doing the same shortly. I have an explorer motor and gt40 3 bar heads in the garage. One day ill get there.
You got this! Dig in!
flipping the pistons was an old race motor builder trick. Check out NEO Mustangs, he built one that way.
I got a heat reducing spacer for my upper and lower intake on my 89 stock mustand 5.0 for around $100 back in mid 90s. that really reduced the heat of the upper intake and made a noticeable increase in power
Nice, I hadn't considered it for that aspect.
@@VeteranRevivals I only had a few bolt on part for my stang. I also had a blaster two ignition coil. K&N air filter underdrive pullies and magna flow mufflers with pipes. I wanted to do more but I was living in a condo community in Atlanta at the time so that limited my abilities greatly. BBK has some parts you should look at in the future.
I had BBK parts all over my 91 GT, love their products.
I just tore down my 95 5.0 as well as another 5.0 I got when I bought a set of new in box svo y302 cylinder heads also I have done this in past on countless other builds as well as had a tank I use to soak parts in blocks heads exc I learned long ago during my first summer working for uncle at his automotive machine shop he taught me that kerosene is absolutely the shit to use also when you heat it oh boy words of wisdom keep it far away from flames sparks exc if you are going to use kerosene especially if you heat it 😮. I used a plastic 55 gallon drum with some heating elements let the last oil leak that baked on the block of the 302 sit for about 3 days block looks great oil gallery all brown stains and that layer of burnt conventional oil all over the crank is gone it was all floating on top I then took a pig pad and let it soak all the oils off top of kerosene
Nice!
I personally was rebuilding my car for the factory EFI. But after my son's carbureted car, I've decided mine will be carbureted also. Since you already have EFI, it's no doubt cheaper and easier to stay EFI and get tall valved covers and a spacer. But it'll probably run better and definitely be easier to diagnose with a carburetor. If I were where you are, I'd just get the spacer and valve covers.
I'm with you on that one!
Isn't it supposed to be 90° at half lift? Not full lift?
Correct, we'll call it a "slip of the tongue"
@@VeteranRevivals oh gotcha.
Scrappy the destroyer of hopes and dreams! 😂
Dude... Every day....
Awesome job man
Thank you!! 🤙🤙
Excellent video bro good work almost there🤘🏎⛽
Soooooooo close...
beards lookin sick
Haha thanks
🎉. Ha . The audio is epic 😄. 7:50 Didgeridoo. 2:38 Lollypop Guild. 4:17 Mr. Can you spare a penny? Engine is looking good so far. Can't wait to hear it Run and light em up!! Don't worry so much about the dust. That's all part of the break-in procedure. Extra break in paste. 😅
Haha thanks, and good point! 🤙
Should have checked for interference with the valvetrain in place. Need the valves opening and closing
I checked all of that while cycling for lash
Awesome video as usual but you Might have to relocate the bird feeder. 😂
Those birds were fired up!
Hi man look I think your doing great on your builds and your videos so let em keep on hating on you it's not going to stop you for being a great content maker😊😅😂
Haha thanks! 🤙🤙
check out neo mustangs about the piston flip trick, apparently it works but only with certain pistons if I remember correctly.
The 351 if you dont stroke it just do a 347 or 331. Swap parts will be about what a 347 rotating will be still lighter.
This car will see a lot more everyday driving than I would be comfortable with on a 347. 331 would be good though.
Great video!
Thank you! 🤙🤙
No big deal to modify your valve covers, just remove the oil baffle & clearance the ribs a bit. IMO, keep the stock valve cover whenever possible.
A lot of nhra stock guys do that . And it does work. Have seen it in the Dyno and track no harm
Which part are we talking about?
You can’t adjust those rockers like that. You have to put the cylinder at top dead center then adjust the intake and exhaust on that cylinder then turn the crank and do the next cylinder in line of the firing order. 13726548 is the firing order.
All the lash was adjusted on base lobe. What you saw was me going around and adding preload.
@@VeteranRevivals how can you add preload to a rocker that is being held open by a cam lobe the plunger would be bottomed out
@@VeteranRevivals how do you add preload to a lifter that is holding open a valve, would the plunger not be bottomed out
Adding 3/4 turn preload is just adding 3/4 turn preload. It doesn't matter where the lifter is in it's cycle. Lash has to be checked at base, but preload on a stud roller rocker is just preload.
Hello, I have a bronco with a 302 EFI engine and GT40 head, I would like to install some 1.6 roller rockers, could you recommend a model? Should I change the push rods?
The roller rockers I used for this video are pretty good, I changed the pushrods because these were worn and unusable. If your pushrods are in good condition you may not have to change them.
Should have just LS swapped it😂😂😂…..i have a roller 302 in the garage i have to build too for my sons ‘67 mustang….but id be lying if i said i didnt wanna throw one of my spare LS motors in there……..fox body is an easy LS swap …first gen 60’s mustangs…..not so much!!!……although the 302 were building has aluminum heads with 58cc chambers and better flat top pistons with a higher compresssion ring hieght (from summit) giving us around 10:1 compression give or take depending on head gaskets…..we have all the parts except for the cam….im thinking a 211/220 cam with a 2300/2800 stall in the c4 trans….aiming for about 325hp or somewhere in that neighborhood…….and thats not easy or cheap to do on a small block ford by any means….unless you got boost or laughing gas!!!…..i can get that easily with just a nice tune on a iron 4.8 LS truck motor and damn near 400hp if i were to throw the right cam at it ……litterally for pennies on the dollar compared to the ford 302……but whats done is done and we already have a pile of BRAND NEW parts including the NEW aluminum heads and pistons to go into the freshly machined block…….i already swapped the original C code 289”s garbage intake and 2 barrel carb to a performer RPM intake and an ACE’s killshot EFI unit that will easily swap over to the built 302 when the time comes…..so at the end of it all the kid is gonna have a pretty stout and reliable well laid out late model roller cam efi 5.0 in that old original C code coupe (Fremont car)……..bay area car since day 1……, if it were up to me though when its all said and done, Id sell it for a nice profit and buy a GM product that would easily accept a LS swap in literally 1 weekend……any pre ‘75 GM car would work for me…..preferabbly a 2 door unless its a suburban or a cool malibu wagon or vista cruiser…..but hey, kids nowadays have horrible taste in vehicles
😂😂 all the swap parts for the LS is what costs the 💲💲. Rebuilding all of this with the cam and rockers was about $1100, so it was hard to not give it a try for now.
@@VeteranRevivals key words…..”for now”……good luck homie, cant wait to see it back in action
Pistons...sorry I thought you had mental telepathy 😂😂..did on my buddy stock eliminator car and picked up a little just by changing 1 with 5 and so on. Kind of like a hidden piston stroke
Interesting 🤔
Maybe the people questioning your abilities should come to your house and put the engine together for you, otherwise it’s none of their business. You don’t owe them an explanation.
Haha, that was a little inside joke jab at my friends
More steps forward.
Yessssssss
Intake spaces are not expensive at all.
I noticed that after looking them up 🤙🤙
Whats up with the Macedonia flag??
The Arizona State flag?
@@VeteranRevivals my bad. it looks similar to the Macedonian flag.