Junkyard GT40 Intake Upgrade! Cheap HP? Or Much Regret For The Fox body Mustang?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- We found a super cheap GT40 intake from an explorer and we're game to see what all the fuss is about. Is this going to be a quick and easy performance gain? Or is it going to be a pain...
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At the end the car was just saying "until next time..."! I really enjoyed this vid. I like your personality and sense of humor. Personally, I'm 100% against LS swaps in Fox bodies, but it's your car. I have an 86 GT and supercharged 91 LX.
Haha, thank you! I promise you, I'm not a fan of the thought of putting the LS in. Time will tell if things become too obvious to ignore
I belive the 96 explorers used 3 bar GT40 heads. So no spark plug issues.
You are correct sir
Keep it Ford . please don't do an LS swap. I'd do a coyote swap or 351 roller motor. I'd do the 351 motor.
I'm with you on the 351 🤙
Agreed 👍, my 1st mod was a 351W swap to my 1985 GT. It was back in 1995...at the time is was world's better than a similar rebuilt 5.0
Tbh you should go all out 408w 🔥💯
Just as soon as you're footing the bill 💵💵 😂
@@VeteranRevivals from my endless bank account 🤣
One of the best cars i bought used was found on road dead, the guy sold it to me because it quit on him on the side of the road. He couldn't get it running so i got it for cheap. the resistor Wire was burned. I hotwired it to get home then figured it out. it was 1967 Mustang with a 351 Cleveland 4 barrel and a 4 speed.
Nice!
Nice man... moving foward with the progress 👍 love those notch!!
Just a FYI, buy a set of AFR 185’s. And use the GT40 and cam then when you go 351w use the same AFR’s send your Intake to Big dogs porting, Or buy another and have it ready, and you’ll be 350-400wheel hp. I’m at 315 with stock Intake and GT40 heads with their cam. Heads, and intake are ported, intake is stage III, Heads are stage II. With a ported Gt40 intake id be more along 335-350wheel.
Old trick from 60 yrs ago.
China wall: drill 1/8" holes 3/32" deep about 1" apart across the length of the china wall.
Whatever gaskets you use wil be captured and cant squirt out. 👍👍😎
Either on the block or the intake. No need to do both.
*******
Intake bolts.. take two extras, cut off the heads, make a screwdriver slot, put one on each side to guide the intake down straight.
******
Cooling system clean out: Prestone Flush yellow bottle. Put it in and drive it 300 miles. Super clean. Flush out the bottom radiator tank. Back flush the hear core. 👍😀
New green antifreeze every 2 years
******
Thermostat: drill one 3/32 hole in the rim to burp out the air when being refilled. Some thermostats already have them.
Nice! Those are some handy tips
I have two 1997 Explorers. One came with GT40 heads, and one came with GT40P heads. GT40 Explorer heads used in '96 to mid 97. Three casting 'bars' on head indicate GT40, four bars are the gt40P. Don't know if exhaust manifolds are different considering the reengineered spark plug location.
I wish more ppl would do this. Real easy to do parts swaps all can do. I like watching ppl run setups on Dyno, go nuts etc but its nice to just see a car person work in their car trying to make it a lil bit better. I wish more ppl would experiment with 4.6 2,3,4 valves. Especially thevold panther 2valves. I drive a vouple town cars. Love these engines. Together theyve taken me over 600k miles with no repairs. But i did do the vent seal, reroute the water pump line from back of pump to engine so it wont leak under intake, swapped plastic intake for aluminum, retoute the passenger Drain and AC lines so they dont leak on frame, derusted, killed rust, sealed up with internal frame coating, rustoleum black, then oil/wax coating all over. 303 any and all rubber like bags, tires, wipers, etc. Feels good to do small stuff yourself and know that this car will last so much longer for it. Its not always about the MPH, HP etc, its about loving what u drive and driving what u love. Panthers FOREVER!!
Haha hell yeah, that's the best part! I had a 2001 GT and spent many days on the side of the road placing helicoils lol so I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with that 4.6 😂
@@VeteranRevivals Love the handle, Semper Fi. Well I can't blame u there, but I can say I've only had plug shits fired from 3v 4.6 n 5.4. Seems like when they either keep it simple stupid, KISS, or make it 4 valves per, issues are scarce. A lot say the trans are weak. I've never had issues there either. I never flush mine, not supposed to per Ford, and always use motorcraft, BnG, friction modifiers, sythnetics like amsoil, and had good luck. But I don't abuse mine either. I don't baby it but I don't neutral drop them either. My 99 ride me n buddies muddy asses all over tri state area going to well pads, forest clearings, pipeline right aways, and has had her fair share of stuck in mud, muck spinning 80mph trying to get traction. And when I break out the 2x2 snow, mud chains look out. Having a family it's the perfect sedan for gear, smooth rides, vacations and about all things. Love them. U have a gr8 week and a good Ho Ho Ho.
Haha I love it, one day I'll have to give one a try!
Got a 93 GT that someone threw SVE heads on,...rest was OE, headers and all. Anyway I put the early GT40 explore on it (had the IAT boss, made it easier) GT40 intake is GREAT bang for the but I feel.
Good vid man
S\F
Thank you!
Love a notch! Hands on......build it without blowing the budget. Got a sub. Like brew2l, neo & foxcast, but you remind me of 5.0 tussin. More with less! Keep up the good work!
Thank you and welcome aboard! 🤙🤙
An old "cure" for the "china wall" front and rear gaskets on intake manifolds, was to take a hammer and pointed punch and dimple the top of the china wall where those gaskets were going to sit, so they had a rougher surface to keep from sliding out. but an experienced hand laying down just the right amount of "bead" will suffice.
Haha that's pretty clever
Drill 1/8" dimples one inch apart in wall and/or manifold. For rubber or RTV.
my "old cure" was to throw them right in the trash and use a bead of good rtv on the front and back. Permatex "right stuff" is excellent
I got a bone stock bottom end carbed 351w in my 82. Tfs 11r 190 heads. Tfs stage 2 cam. 1.7 rockers. Vic jr intake. 1 7/8 long tubes. X pipe. Laying down 425 rwhp 460 ftlbs. And still has the bearings and rings put in it ij 1996 from henry ford
Nice! I have no doubt the 351 is a strong choice
Nice project, love that you are keeping it Ford. I have an ‘86 and ‘89 my self. Greetings from Norway, Europe😊
Nice, Norway! Pretty much the opposite of this desert! Haha
Well that First On Race Day Mustang is really coming along very nicely. Enjoying this series.
Haha hell yeah 🤙🤙
74 maverick mild built 306 with closed chamber 289 heads. Does really well for what it is.
Nice! That's a fun little car
For easy radiator draining, head on down to Dollar General or Walmart, and get one of those plastic bins for storing stuff under your bed. They're long and work great if you just want to pull the lower radiator hose
🤔 that's genius
I do essentially the same thing. It's a fairly flat clear plastic storage container with a lid, about 6x18x30. Works perfect.
Cool man we just picked up an 86 GT with the same intake great work bro!!
Nice! You're on your way 🤙
I did the “bolt on” thing with these cars since they were new. Man did we smoke cars out here in Phx AZ back in the day!
Haha hell yeah
First On Race Day.😁 From one vet to another,ty for your service
Haha, hell yeah right back atcha! 🤙🇺🇸
Great vid, really enjoyed it. Before you drop some coin on a new steering rack, try replacing the inner tie rod ends. They're not very expensive and are relatively easy to replace. Perhaps you can make another video.
Thank you! Unfortunately, as you'll see in the last video the power steering pump seized up and filled the whole rack with metal. Aside from that the backlash in the rack was really bad and all the seals were puking 😞
When you have left and right play in your front wheel, it is normally the tie rod end, which is a easy replacement, But be sure and get an alignment after you replace either one, and if you have movement with your hands at the 12 and 6:00 positions, then you likely have a bad wheel bearing, which again, isn't a difficult replacement at all.
Also, the real cobra lower has slightly larger ports than the explorer unit. Of course none of that matters if you're porting it
No flow difference
I'm interested in doing the same thing changing the upper and lower intake already have 3.73 gears just need to do that next mod great video
Thanks for watching! It's a cheap little upgrade and opens the door to more upgrades haha!
Big Dogs porting can get these intake and heads to 280-305 CFM . They do crazy port work on these .
Nice!
Really interesting to see what can be done on a budget on a fox body !
Soon it will be ready for a baseline run on the 1/4!
Love the Dollar Store Deric schtick, Fox body is perfect for low buck project. Keep it up 👍
Haha thanks!
That notch back is my dream car I love it
Haha, she's rough, but still looks good
This was useful for me. I have a 1988 Lincoln Mark VII which I want to do some upgrades on the cheap. It's a Bill Blass edition too-not the LSC. Love the whitewalls and wire wheels on it. It's a pretty fun car to drive.
Hell yeah! I bet that thing rides like a dream!
you probably already know this, but the LSC had the High Output 5.0 used in Mustangs, so it has a 351W firing order (should you change cams or ignition). the non LSC had the regular 5.0 used in thunderbirds and Lincolns so it has the 302 firing order and i think lacks the forged pistons of the HO 5.0
I did not know, that's good info!
@@alertgasper Actually,you're wrong. In 1988 all the LIncoln Mark Vii's got the 5.0 HO engine,AOD trans,traction-lok and dual exhaust. Not just the LSC. My Bill Blass edition has the exact same drivetrain. It basically a Mustang GT with a Lincoln body-and better brakes with air suspension.
@@TheWalkmanRotation thank you for that information--it was the 1986-7 models that only had the 200 hp and the HO in the LSC. so you're good to go with that hot rod lincoln :)
I hope you really get the car where you want it to be. Us fox body guys have to stick together. I own two 88 mustangs one lx 5 speed and the is a gt with a number matching 93 cobra motor with a automatic. Thanks for sharing this. I also have a 97 explorer. It won't start now because of the crap ethenol that screws up fuel pumps .you take care brother
Thank you! Drop that tank, replace that hose and get her back on the road! 🤙
the pump is in the front sump and the pickup is only in the rear sump
Thanks for painting the hood 👍. Now i can stand to look at it 😉. Is that the Ford block that splits in half if you go over 500 ponies?
Yes sir, I've seen them go well over 500 on boosted cars, so maybe it has a lot to do with a properly balanced rotating assembly 🤷🏻♂️
@@VeteranRevivals
They stay together until they go from together to apart.
Commonly considered the 500-550hp is where you are pulling the pin on the proverbial grenade, but some last beyond that level and even for a decent amount of time. I personally think not enough attention is paid to damaging harmonics, but that’s just my personal opinion. Glad you’re enjoying it and avoiding going LS !
Lookin good, love the progress!
Thank you! 🤙
Dude, our Mustangs look IDENTICAL! lol
Except mines a 2.3T/C4 combo with Centerline Convo Pro wheels!
Same red (yours looks a liitle nicer than mine though, imho), same satin black cowl hood, painted black body molding...
Nice! The camera makes this one look better than it actually does 😂
Front sump on oil pan is where the pump sits.
That's what I figured, I couldn't remember
The oil pump is in the front, the pickup is in the rear sump. The front sump is there to make room for the pump body.
@@VeteranRevivals It's driven by the distributor... so just take a look at where that's located. 🙂👍
You say it's a ripper. I did not hear any ripping.... but it looks fantastic. Nice job!😊. ( You have a: Finely Organized Road Device. what you brought home was a F"d Over Rebuilt Datsun😅)
If I do too much ripping, the tires are going to rip the quarter panels off! 😂 Soon that won't be an issue haha.
Two kinds of cars FORD and can't AFFORD! 👈💯
hahahahaha I like that!!
Why the copper gasket on intake? Keep it ford.
Just an added layer of protection against water passage leaks and vacuum leaks. Plus, I have found the gaskets peel off easier for future projects.
New sub, you cool brother! Kove tha energy and humor! Keep it foxin dude!!
Thank you! Welcome aboard! 🤙🤙
25:00 steering rack? How about the inner tie rod end? They screw right in.
Yeah, but when the rack is grinding, pump is whining and there is metal in the fluid, it's time to swap it all out.
Did I miss if he changed the heads over to GT-40?
In this episode, I did not. But check out the latest episode for an update on the drama 😂
There’s only one oil pickup. It’s in the back where the pan is dented.
Maybe it's time for a new pan!
Maybe, but if you’re trying to save a buck or two you can probably hammer it out from the inside. I had the exact same thing on my 351 and was able to hammer it out just fine. Oil pans aren’t as cheap as you might think.
Way cool man, subbed for that foxbody content!
Hell yeah! Hopefully this thing stays together long enough to get it down the strip! 😂
You can build a 351W for same or less than an LS. roughly 500 hp vs 500hp.
True true, but much heavier
@@VeteranRevivals Iron block with aluminum heads, the weights are close for the long blocks. Where the LS has the advantage in weight is the intake manifold. If you're going carburetor then that advantage is equalized. I don't know the exact weights for the 351W or the Iron block LS, I do know the Iron block 302 bare only weighs 20 pounds more than the aluminum block LS.
That's not a bad weight difference. So the debate usually lies in money haha. If, I'm going to buy aluminum heads for a 351, I might as well pick up the junkyard LS for less than the cost of the heads for the 351. Trust me, I'm a Ford guy 100%, but it's really hard to justify the cost for staying with Ford 😞
By the time you get the crossmembers, swap headers, swap harness, stand alone injection, etc for running that LS, you could have dropped a 351 in there easily. Many hype the low cost of the LS but by the time it’s truly all said and done there’s not much if any savings, especially if you find yourself a deal on Windsor stuff…
PLEASE STAY ALL FORD!!! I HAVE A 87 COUPE WITH A 351W WITH VICTOR JR HEADS PORTED AND WITH 208 VALVES.. GOOD POWER MAKES ,JUST SAD ITS SITTING....
Nice! That's a direction I'd like to go with this thing. Get that sucker back on the road! 🤙🤙
$4,000 is pocket change.
Great video a lot of good information
Thank you! 🤙🤙
hey man, do you happen to remember the drill and tap size you used on the upper intake for the ACT sensor?
I thought I listed in the video, but pretty sure it was 3/8 npt and 37/64 drill bit.
@VeteranRevivals I'm sure you did but I really appreciate the clarification here. I scooped up this intake from a friend and I didn't realize the modifications I would have to do. It's looking like relocating that sensor, deleting my EGR system, and getting a new throttle body with spacer should be about the only things I need to add?
@metalderek8376 if the explorer intake you have has an EGR hole, you don't need to delete anything. The factory 5.0 HO throttle body and EGR spacer will fit the explorer intake.
Its the intake just like yours. I haven't seen anything else on that coolant temp sensor that you had to plumb back in. Is that part of the egr delete? @VeteranRevivals
@metalderek8376 no, just my preference.
Sucks about the steering rack, hope that does eat in to the cam and head budget.
Haha, it just might
Maybe you’re lucky and it’s just inner tie rods…pretty simple job on this car.
I wish it were, my friend... The inner tie rods are toast and causing most of the clunking, however the rack is puking fluid and has massive amounts of backlash.
Oh hi...how are you?😂 that's something me and my friends used to say when we liked an idea or suggestion
LMR sells a heater tube without the EGR coolant lines...part #LRS-9424BA. I tried to include a pic and a link but apparently I'm not that smart...😢...🤣
Haha it's all good, I ditched the heater hard line because they are in the way of the throttle when you remove the EGR spacer.
Did you remove the spout connector when you set the timing? I've always done...engine off, remove spout connector, set timing, turn off engine, put spout connector back in.
Yes I did, I even disconnected to spout for setting the idle.
I just ran one continuous rubber line from in to out. Just the same flow as through the EGR so it doesn't matter.
Keep up the great work
Thank you! 🤙🤙
Hey like the video been looking for a video like this that explains all one questions I have the same intake manifold non egr fory fox ody do I have to tap the sensor in or can I run it with out it
You'll have to tap in the IAT sensor or it won't run correctly.
Ok thanks you know the size for the drill bit and the tread I need to make it to
I don't remember off hand, but I believe the tap is 3/8
Hey sorry just can figure out what hoses I cap and which one I run to supply and fuel if you can give me a hint please and thank you
That's a tough one to spell out on here, but generally on the Explorer intake manifold upper, there are two small barbed fittings that face the front of the car, those are for the EGR cooler which take coolant. You can cap those. One large vacuum port that faces the front of the car, which you can use for brake booster or anything else requiring vacuum. The vacuum ports facing out the back of the intake manifold can be used for brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, or vacuum supply to the rest of the car through the vacuum tree mounted on the firewall.
Love a push rod 5.0. What mufflers are you running?
They appear to be 40 series flowmaster
What way did you clean it
Wire brush and elbow grease
nice "torque" wrench on the install
🤙🤙
Why does one need to replace the oil?
One only needs do it if one suspects he may have contaminated the oil that currently resides in the engine.
1) Contamination.
2) additives settle out after a while and do not remix well.
Look I'm the bottom of your oil bottles when they're empty. See any dark residue?
Time for a 130a alternator upgrade
Agreed
90 amp from a 302 Lincoln is fairly inexpensive.
a guy might run some CLR thru that cooling system an maybe get it cleaned out a little
😮😮 does that really work? Never heard of such wizardry
@@VeteranRevivals I've never had to do it, but Ive watched about 7.68254321.6 car shows an seen fellers do it a time or three. Plenty of videos on TH-cam about it.
Well then, I do believe it's time to pillage the laundry room for a bottle 🤙
Prestone Flush yellow bottle. You can leave it in forever...
Run 300 miles, back flush heater, flush bottom radiator tank.
Explorer in take is more for torque and you wrong about it flowing more then the gt40 intake. Gt40 is better then cobra explorer half gt40 intake i had them all.
I believe that is highly dependent on a wide array of variables. But I won't deny that in some combination I'm sure the tubular is better in such an insignificant way that it's not totally worth debating.
Richard Holdener tested them ALL back to back. From 2500 to 5000 rpm they're all virtually identical on a HCI 302 with E cam. Above 5500 about +12+.
Below 2500 the Explorer is strongest.... The rpm you usually drive.
Explorer is 1/10 the price of the tubular and 1/4 the price of either Cobras
hi guy , from france !!
Welcome! 🤙🤙
When u going to make it fast and put a LS in it
😮😮😮 sinner
Good call got you with a sub 🐎🚗🔧👊🇺🇸💪
Haha hell yeah, welcome aboard! 🤙🤙
I heard he drinks black rifle coffee ☕
So, funny story... I actually don't drink coffee. But I do support my fellow Vets!
I was doing this 20 years ago.....step up to the coyote and blast past the past...lol
Feel free to drop off that donor or $10k for the swap 😂
I'm officially subscribing to your channel. Go for a roller 351w and bore/stroke. 11's.. high 10's.....add boost and have the time of your life. Thanks for your service and response.....I'm on your feed now sir!
Haha hell yeah! Welcome aboard!
Lol, your like Brandon Herrera, junkyard digs and vice grip garage.... enjoying your stuff bro.
Haha, I can see the similarities. Thanks!
This guy needs to do collaboration with vgg
Might end up with sarcasm overload 😂
I can't wait
😂😂🤙
Just do a coyote swap and 6r80 or tr6060 transmission
Trust me, it's on the list of wants. However, it doesn't meet the monetary qualifications for needs, haha.
Please please please keep it ford powered! 🙏
I'm trying, it's hard out here when $1500 junkyard LS Swaps are running 12's nearly bone stock
@@VeteranRevivals 3 bar heads, rear gears and a 150 shot? 😃 should get you close!
Haha, touché
Please don’t put an LS in the car….
Check out the latest videos haha
p heads at pull a part are not expensive.
Very true, but honestly I don't want to spend the money on headers for it or trying to figure out short plugs/wires.
Rare in our area. 3 or 4 bars.
@@VeteranRevivalsAccel makes wires for the P heads with 90 degree boots, easy to find.
Nice
As always
🤙🤙🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hood is 10x better!
Agreed! I'm a sucker for satin black hoods
Please keep it Ford
Haha, tryin to
LS SWAP IT!! You know Tony wants it
😂😂 🤫🤫
LS swaps are for chicks... stick with Ford power...
Haha, I'm going to need to find a lottery ticket.
Hp is not cheap so cut the bs .everything ads up.
Hmmmm but there is certainly different levels of spending to HP ratio. For instance, I bought a tubular GT40 upper and lower for my 91 GT 15 years ago for $1k from Ford. A week ago I snagged an explorer GT40 intake upper and lower for $160. The achievable HP difference between the two is so insignificant it doesn't even come close to justifying the cost difference. Sooooooooo that to me is cheap HP.
AMEN. EXACTLY CORRECT !!!
See my other comment.
I gave 143 for non-EGR into my hands WITH the throttle body.👍👍
Whatever you just did on that thermostat was a waste. it will fail if you have to do all that...
I don't follow, can you elaborate?
@@VeteranRevivals
Drill a 3/32 purge hole in the thermostat rim. Some come pre drilled.
Actually the explorer makes less HP and Tq than the tubular gt40
Eh, there are many different opinions on that
more like First On Race Day.