Great video series. I was just quoted $4000 per head for professional installation. On a 4-5 head system that could be $20,000. Nope!! After watching this, I am ordering us a Mr. Cool system. Mr. Post Frame saves the day again!!
Excellent DIY video. Very comprehensive video that gives me the confidence that I can do this. Building a shop and will definitely be using these. Keep up the good work.
One thing to consider Paul, the head that's in your canning kitchen might need a deep cleaning more often than others. I've found the small squirrel cage fan in the head unit is a magnet for airborne grease, then grabs dust particles and becomes a fuzzy fan that is less efficient at moving air. The one in our kitchen area needs a deep cleaning twice a year and we do use our kitchen for cooking, every day. I'm making a video how to clean these units. 6 mini split installs under under my DIY belt, all still going strong. Couple of them have loops in the line sets, some vertical, some horizontal. Nice work on your install. It takes time for a clean installation, especially with the internet checking your work.
Just a suggestion, the control boards on mini splits are very sensitive to power surges. I suggest installing a surge protector on the disconnect box. It’s cheap insurance.
For the condensate trap you can put mineral oil in the trap during winter. It will not evaporate during unused months. As for septic if you have not sure how that will affect that system. I know we use mineral oil in basement showers that are rarely used to keep sewer gases from coming up, the mineral oil will not evaporate.
If I have no problems running a 5 ton and 2.5 ton central AC system in my house with a septic system on the South Texas coast. He should be great, my 5 ton alone can put out tons of water a day and it's been running for 20 years.
@@TdrSld water is not the issue going into the septic. He will not run the ac for a long period during the winter so the trap will evaporate dry. So I am suggesting to add mineral oil to the trap during winter to keep full and no sewer gas. But issue I don’t know about is when ac is turned back on and that mineral oil goes into septic what the affect on that system is for mineral oil.
You just saved me, Thank you for your videos. Stupid me didn't turn on the king valves as other videos never explained this. It's running much cooler. Thank you.
Very nice system Paul, I'm looking forward to installing my system this fall, I just need to figure out what size and how many units I will need, I'm sure you can help me with that!
I too have an electrical background and have done multiple panel swaps hot. But I dont know codes, dont have professional electrical experience and was in a rush when I was installing my 48k 5 head system as I had to finish it before a surgery that was upcoming and actually worked all night until 6:30 AM on the day of my surgery finishing the install. Now Im installing a single head 18k unit from a different manufacturer when it hit me that I didn't ground my Mr Cool 48k properly. Due to my surgery, I was forced to use an old unused 3 wire stove circuit which means no ground. I noticed the manual says to ground a 48k 5 head system, "It must be properly grounding with specialized grounding device by a professional." Ive never seen an HVAC system use anything other than a ground wire back to the electrical panel but that statement leads me to believe they require a grounding rod tied to the condenser. How did you ground your system?
Did you purchase from a local distributor or Online? Where we live AC isn't a dire necessity. There are a few days each summer where it would be nice to have. We end up with all of our blinds drawn on those hot days. It's like living in a cave. The Heat pump aspect is probably as important if not more. We heat our main floor with a wood burning fireplace. But on those transitional days where a little heat would be good but a fire would drive you out of the house. We have Cove radiant heat which we use now on those days, but a Heat Pump would be more efficient. For our 1500 SF house I would put an 18000 BTU unit in the great room. That would be more than sufficient to cool the whole house as we're very will insulated with spray foam and 1" of foam board on the outside of the studs.
MRCOOL is sold online through Amazon or your local big box hardware store (Menards or Home Depot). I'm looking forward to see how this performs in the winter. Our radiant heat will be used but I don't have separate zones setup so we'll use the heat pump to supplement in the office spaces.
Were those standard or metric crescent wrenches you were using? 🤪 loved seeing this little series and getting first hand info on the installation of the mini split! Thank you for the information!
First of all, great video and very informative. Thank you posting. a couple of questions. Can I order directly from them as you did? and you mentioned something about 2/3 of unit has to be hooked up. I want to buy a multi zone unit/s but I'm not ready for all the heads until my next stage of my build. thanks in advance.
I got one those 48k units I’m doing now…. It says 60 amp max breaker so I used an existing pool heater and pump 60 amp feed sub panel and #4 line that existed again. Put in a 60 amp disconnect where there was an existing box. Hella hard to connect them #4 wires into that unit but seems worth it. It says min 40 amp so I assume 40 is the draw. That would be #8 wire and probably easier (and cheaper) but I had this existing pool breaker sub panel fed from the 60 and nicely buried with a ground rod as well for a double ground as one #4 come from main and they did a rod with #4 I figured as it says 60 max why not use what’s there. I made my whip out of #4 wire and flex 3/4. Like I say was hella hard getting them big wires in. Used hammer crimped #4 connectors to the unit and heat shrink over those.
I was noticing how you connected the white wire in the disconnect box. I was wondering if that was an illegal neutral to ground connection. Please view the video made by windheim EMF solutions. th-cam.com/video/Xc_ArQn9nrU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=241hZSN4jKvIsurK
Great video series. I was just quoted $4000 per head for professional installation. On a 4-5 head system that could be $20,000. Nope!! After watching this, I am ordering us a Mr. Cool system. Mr. Post Frame saves the day again!!
Awesome!
18k mrcool unit has been working great for 3 years and love it
Great to hear!
Best video available about a multi zone mini split install great job
Thanks for watching!
Excellent DIY video. Very comprehensive video that gives me the confidence that I can do this. Building a shop and will definitely be using these. Keep up the good work.
Great video, you explain everything so anyone can understand. Thanks for doing these videos, it is a go to source for DIYers.
Glad you like them!
One thing to consider Paul, the head that's in your canning kitchen might need a deep cleaning more often than others. I've found the small squirrel cage fan in the head unit is a magnet for airborne grease, then grabs dust particles and becomes a fuzzy fan that is less efficient at moving air. The one in our kitchen area needs a deep cleaning twice a year and we do use our kitchen for cooking, every day. I'm making a video how to clean these units.
6 mini split installs under under my DIY belt, all still going strong. Couple of them have loops in the line sets, some vertical, some horizontal. Nice work on your install. It takes time for a clean installation, especially with the internet checking your work.
Just a suggestion, the control boards on mini splits are very sensitive to power surges. I suggest installing a surge protector on the disconnect box. It’s cheap insurance.
For the condensate trap you can put mineral oil in the trap during winter. It will not evaporate during unused months. As for septic if you have not sure how that will affect that system. I know we use mineral oil in basement showers that are rarely used to keep sewer gases from coming up, the mineral oil will not evaporate.
If I have no problems running a 5 ton and 2.5 ton central AC system in my house with a septic system on the South Texas coast. He should be great, my 5 ton alone can put out tons of water a day and it's been running for 20 years.
@@TdrSld water is not the issue going into the septic. He will not run the ac for a long period during the winter so the trap will evaporate dry. So I am suggesting to add mineral oil to the trap during winter to keep full and no sewer gas. But issue I don’t know about is when ac is turned back on and that mineral oil goes into septic what the affect on that system is for mineral oil.
You just saved me, Thank you for your videos. Stupid me didn't turn on the king valves as other videos never explained this. It's running much cooler. Thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
How many amps for your breaker?
I waiting for the electricians comments.. good video
I didn't like the.lack of a drip loop on disconnect flex' lack of green tape on white wire in disconnect' and no strap on flex..
Very nice system Paul, I'm looking forward to installing my system this fall, I just need to figure out what size and how many units I will need, I'm sure you can help me with that!
Hi , great video //// but i never see you vacuum the system
What cable number did you use
I too have an electrical background and have done multiple panel swaps hot. But I dont know codes, dont have professional electrical experience and was in a rush when I was installing my 48k 5 head system as I had to finish it before a surgery that was upcoming and actually worked all night until 6:30 AM on the day of my surgery finishing the install. Now Im installing a single head 18k unit from a different manufacturer when it hit me that I didn't ground my Mr Cool 48k properly. Due to my surgery, I was forced to use an old unused 3 wire stove circuit which means no ground. I noticed the manual says to ground a 48k 5 head system, "It must be properly grounding with specialized grounding device by a professional." Ive never seen an HVAC system use anything other than a ground wire back to the electrical panel but that statement leads me to believe they require a grounding rod tied to the condenser.
How did you ground your system?
Can one head unit be heating while another is in cooling mode?
No, the MrCool can't heat and cool simultaneously. You'd need separate condensers if you'd like that capability.
Test for leaks after the release of refrigerant? What if there is a leak? Seems out of order.
Did you purchase from a local distributor or Online? Where we live AC isn't a dire necessity. There are a few days each summer where it would be nice to have. We end up with all of our blinds drawn on those hot days. It's like living in a cave. The Heat pump aspect is probably as important if not more. We heat our main floor with a wood burning fireplace. But on those transitional days where a little heat would be good but a fire would drive you out of the house. We have Cove radiant heat which we use now on those days, but a Heat Pump would be more efficient. For our 1500 SF house I would put an 18000 BTU unit in the great room. That would be more than sufficient to cool the whole house as we're very will insulated with spray foam and 1" of foam board on the outside of the studs.
MRCOOL is sold online through Amazon or your local big box hardware store (Menards or Home Depot). I'm looking forward to see how this performs in the winter. Our radiant heat will be used but I don't have separate zones setup so we'll use the heat pump to supplement in the office spaces.
Were those standard or metric crescent wrenches you were using? 🤪 loved seeing this little series and getting first hand info on the installation of the mini split! Thank you for the information!
Ha...thanks for watching!
First of all, great video and very informative. Thank you posting. a couple of questions. Can I order directly from them as you did? and you mentioned something about 2/3 of unit has to be hooked up. I want to buy a multi zone unit/s but I'm not ready for all the heads until my next stage of my build. thanks in advance.
I got one those 48k units I’m doing now…. It says 60 amp max breaker so I used an existing pool heater and pump 60 amp feed sub panel and #4 line that existed again. Put in a 60 amp disconnect where there was an existing box. Hella hard to connect them #4 wires into that unit but seems worth it. It says min 40 amp so I assume 40 is the draw. That would be #8 wire and probably easier (and cheaper) but I had this existing pool breaker sub panel fed from the 60 and nicely buried with a ground rod as well for a double ground as one #4 come from main and they did a rod with #4 I figured as it says 60 max why not use what’s there. I made my whip out of #4 wire and flex 3/4. Like I say was hella hard getting them big wires in. Used hammer crimped #4 connectors to the unit and heat shrink over those.
wheres the part where ya pump nitrogen to pressure test for leaks
It’s a DIY system. Lines are sealed and the compressor has all the refrigerant it needs inside it. No need to draw a vacuum on the lines.
Thank you for the info!
Electrical tape for medical use?Okay if you don't have duct tape!😅😅
Ha...yes electrical tape was more accessible at that moment.
You didn't evacuate the line sets. it plainly tells you on page 32 to evacuate the system. those line sets were not pre charged.
They were pre charged line sets.
Who will service it if it breaks? Will local HVAC installers touch this after it's been installed DIY?
Some will as they are now common. Some won’t. Also depends the quality of the install. If they come and see a rats nest they will walk. lol.
I was noticing how you connected the white wire in the disconnect box. I was wondering if that was an illegal neutral to ground connection. Please view the video made by windheim EMF solutions. th-cam.com/video/Xc_ArQn9nrU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=241hZSN4jKvIsurK
Terrible BRAND. MINE BROKE DOWN 4 TIMES.