Mr Cool Mini Split (12,000 BTU) - geni.us/xCglvP Mr Cool Mini Split (18,000 BTU) - geni.us/15IxidC Mr Cool Mini Split (24,000 BTU) - geni.us/mCmM582 Condenser Mounting Bracket - geni.us/K96RtDU DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.
I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep. One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories. You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware. Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation. In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there. The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs. It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own. As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.
Regarding the coiling of the line set,the only thing is that it’s too much…which would restrict the required amount of oil goin back to the compressor but the line set can be vertical with just a U shape behind the condenser and right into the connection.
@@nicola3060 I think I got mine on Amazon. Reply here if you want me to look up the item and I will. But if it's the same unit as mine, the important thing is the 5/8" ID. It's a bit of an odd-ball size as far as PVC tubing goes so a hardware store may not have it.
"The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. " - ok, i've been wondering about this! my outdoor unit will basically sit behind the indoor, and I don't want this ridiculous coil getting buried by snow, covered in spider webs, etc. are you able to completely get rid of the the refrigerant coil? where did you get your AC Whip?
I just watched one of your DIY videos. And I was awesome. Then I saw you made one for a Mr. Cool. Great video. For all you out there looking to install one yourself. Do it. I live in Connecticut. One of the highest electric rates in the nation. The average bill bounces up almost 500 bucks a month for June, July, and August. Goes from 200 to 700. It pays for it in savings. Buy the time I brought everything to install my 36,000 btu unit. Wire, 40 amp breaker ect. Was probably about 7 grand. But at 1500 bucks a year. Within 5 years it paid for itself. Very comfortable and quiet. Couldn't be happier. Do it. One of the most satisfying jobs I ever did.
Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.
I have the same issue. In the house it sounds like a truck is driving by the house, even with an entire garage between the condenser and the living space. Can you provide a link for the vibration pads please!!
Well the confusing part is there are systems that are called mini-splits but its a whole house traditional AC unit with ducting, air handler and ect. Those are expensive
You could report ir give the company a negative review depending , if it's a very large and elaborate project then I understand but 850 sq foot system eekkkk . I wonder how many seniors and so on there ripping off , that's like the 80 quote someone gave me to change my 30 second job for the air filter on my vehicle
Yep. I paid $6800 for a 5 zone manifold big Carrier (tall two fans) and three floor mount heads which are more expensive than the ugly over door wall hanger default. Installed. It was a raised wood floor crawl space victorian cottage 1888 build and the guys were there all day with perfect cut custom lines. I haven't had a single problem with the system...and happy to have gutted out the old underfloor ducts done in the 1970s now savaged by possums and racoons. The guys even yanked out much of the dead ducts for me and disposed of them. I had to do about half the remaining dead ducts. I've helped guys do premade simple systems and it isn't hard when you mount the unit next to panel service and the head is on the adjacent wall. However that would have been very hard on my old house as the lines snaked under the house like plumbing.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsthanks for sharing. One suggestion and I'm not sure it's right because I'm not an expert but it sounds plausible. The coil should be underneath the unit rather than behind it. I guess having it coiled horizontally makes a difference with some type of lubricant in the line. Having it coiled vertically I guess the fluid can't make it back to the compressor.
I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.
One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.
The system is designed to provide enough velocity to force any refrigerant or oil back to the compressor without issue regardless of coiled lineset orientation.
It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.
I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..
I assume he didn't use a vacuum pump because his refrigerant lines are sealed, some aren't and just have a bell opening, he *Could* use a dry clean gas/extra refrigerant Just to add pressure to check for leaks on his 4 Refrigerant Line nuts and the Service Valves.(Service Valves Closed)
Great video, Scott! Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect. Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes. Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding. Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.
I just took delivery of my 2nd Mr Cool, this one is a 24,000 btu unit for my workshop. The shop is a separate (from the main house) building with it's own 200 Amp panel. I have already run the 240 circuit using #8 wire with a 35 Amp breaker in EMT out to a non fused service cutoff and all rain tight compression fittings. The compressor will be on a wall bracket. I will be fabricating a special longer bracket in order to hit 3 studs to lag it in. Tomorrow I'll begin installing it, and welding up the custom wall bracket mount. The main house upstairs Bonus Room had a new Mr Cool already when we got here in March of 2023. I have to say, this is a really wonderful product. It keeps the Bonus Room upstairs at a steady 75 degrees regardless of the month or weather. It is super quiet and so far has worked flawlessly. Like I say, it came with the house but was newly installed just prior to our buying here, so I didn't install it. I'm looking forward to learning all about it when I install this new unit in the workshop. I like the Bonus Room unit so much I decided to go with another one. 5 Stars for Mr Cool. Further, as a solid dedicated DIY guy, I love the pre-charged system and being able to do it all myself.
In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.
Thank you! Getting ready to install a 12k unit in our garage soon. Loved the extra tips on using and sealing the outside box and of course, being careful not to kink the hoses.
Please mention or note that this mrcool hole saw is an additional expense and not included with every system. Customers call all the time and ask why they didn’t get their hole saw. James at MrCoolDirect Id also note that the coils of excess line set should remain in a horizontal orientation so the lubricant oil in the system doesn’t pool in the low spots and starve the compressor of oil because of gravity holding oil in the low spots in a vertical coil. Great very informative video thank you for putting out this video
I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help. Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow. I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall. Mine is a 12k 120 unit.
One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning. This was a great video.
Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.
There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines. All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves. "Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed". You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars. The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.
One of the greatest features of a Mr Cool are the leak proof connectors. Cut and flared lines leak, period. These dont and thats gold for diy ers. Takes the skill and experience out of the equation.
They are pre charged with refrigerant. They sell line sets up to 50 feet. An outdoor condenser is usually only pre charged rated for 16 feet of line. MrCool units, using their line set, can run upwards of 80 feet, with a maximum of 232 total feet for their DIY units. There is no possible way they are over charging their condensers to support 232 total line feet, the unit would not cool effectively at all anymore. This is from the no-vac pre charged line set customer brochure. 100% Accurately Precharged R410A Refrigerant 15 FT 1.94 OZ 25 FT 3.17 OZ 35 FT 9.77 OZ 50 FT 19.44 OZ
Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.
@@sammax4245 No there isn't. The GFCI mentioned isn't about the 240V disconnect. Code asks for an 120V GFCI receptacle within the area of that 240V disconnect for service technicians to be able to use... whether it's a disconnect for a condenser, pool, hot tub, solar PV, etc. For example, an HVAC tech may need to pull a vacuum on the linesets of the condenser. His equipment needs to plug into a receptacle that is obviously GFCI protected.
Not that I agree with it, but code says all condensers need to be on a gfci circuit. Apparently some kid climbed on to a condenser and grabbed a steel fence and died. In the knee jerk country we live in, they now require gfci’s. Yes gfci protected 120v receptical is required as well.
@@ericanderson9004 Whoa! That's a new one. Horrible! What sucks is the costs of these GFCI breakers are so crazy that it makes people cheat and try to avoid installing them, at the cost of human safety.
Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.
Have a 12 k single ordered. This is the best install video I’ve seen yet. Mine is 115v to cool and heat a 14x28 insulated wood shed. I think it’s going to work great. Thanks for the info. 😎👍
Nice video. Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit. Grace and Peace Slick
That would have been cleaner for sure and I considered it for this garage. I decided to go a more "traditional" route to try and align with what would be more common for the viewer. Thanks for the feedback 👊
100%. That's exactly what I did. The lineset/power cables go directly through the wall straight out to the condenser. For those who aren't working with an insulated, finished interior space, why wouldn't you do it that way??
Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.
If the unit is cycling wouldn’t that means that the unit is larger than the space? Plus is the unit an Inverter?It as 4core 2.5 mm wire which inverters use…so if the garage is not insulated properly,the opposite would happen(the unit will run continuously)which would also ramp up the unit to maximum speed for both the condenser fan and the variable speed compressor.
@r410a6 Yes, causing your electrical bill to increase. Not to mention the strain on your unit ensuring your local HVAC tec a new boat from all the repairs you're going to need. Bottom line is insulate the enclosed area.
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These Mr. Cools are made in China by the company who makes "gree", if you want something that will last alot longer go for the Daikin (Japan). Same installation process, like others have mentioned get yourself a Vacuum, and a flare and copper cutter kit to trim those lines properly. Very helpful video by Everyday Repairs.
Daikin AC is made in China too.What’s wrong with Gree AC?
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@@dehutech1072 Sorry honey do your research as of March 2024 Daikin Japan no longer relys on parts from China to build its airconditioners however it was always designed and built in Japan. Nothing wrong with gree but it will certainly not last anywhere near as long.
The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.
very informative I would like to point out that the line kit is not pre charged the condenser is also would like to point out you should vacuum down the the system (that is what the 3rd cap is for on the condenser). good video
Very good, well done presentation. You explained things better than other presentations I have seen where they left some things a little bit unclear. Your demo is very clear and understandable. Thank you.
Excellent detailed description, and very good video as well. Thanks for taking the time to provide this! Would you please provide some info about your battery/inverter power units? Thanks again!
Have been considering mrCool diy and this video showed me that I think I'll be able to do it... thank you so much... subscribed in order to be able to see what other projects you make look easy...😊
I have a Mr Cool 9000 btu Unit, a little over 14 months in use, in August of 2023, unit failed, I couldn't get a response from Mr. Cool. Local HVAC charged over $300 for freon and labor, 8 months later unit failed, finally reached Mr Cool. They didn't care about my having to pay already, plus they demanded $250 to ship like unit one state away. I finally went and picked up the replacement unit. One day (600 miles round trip) and spent $60 in gas to get a replacement "UNDER WARRENTY".
Great video as always. Stumbled upon this many months later after installing the eufy security cameras as I am in the market for a couple of these. Intimidating project!
Great video only thing i will correct you on is that the line set are not charged the refrigerant is actually in the compressor and is released when you open your valves so if you didn't want to coil you line and cut them to length instead you are able to do so
I watched your video on this installation and the one thing that is really important I didn’t see was checking your refrigeration lines for potential leaks because if one of the connections is leaking to repair it you will have to call in a professional to evacuate and weigh in the proper refrigerant charge. If that happens when he’s there you might as well have the line set shortened and if you saved the line cover kit install the line cover so that it covers all the lines to the service port for a nice clean mostly sealed install. The other issues I would address is by mounting the condenser on the wall outside I would recommend about 24 inches above the ground will avoid lawn maintenance issues in the future. Other than that everything else was on point.
That’s the same size I need . I have a back room Ive been a contractor for 39 yrs went thru it all so I’m sure I can handle it. I’ll watch your video.😊nice job and video. That’s a nice bracket too.I’m buying one. I’m just wondering how reliable they are. Looks 👍 great.
Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.
I think installing the provided sleeve regardless of finished or unfinished interior wall would be ideal. Might have to do some extra prep work to support the sleeve properly.
Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.
I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 that goes against everything I’ve learned - so I checked. Page 27, bottom right: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf
I installed one of these a couple of years ago and have lost sleep thinking about leaving my lines vertical, but there was really no other choice given all the extra line I had. Even thought about calling in an HVAC company to remove the excess. That said, 2+ years later everything is still working great.
Just curious is it possible to run the lines inside the wall and then drill the hole closer to the bottom so the lines are hidden? I have a shed that is unfinished and thinking about getting a unit or two.
Yes, especially in an unfinished space like I had for the detached garage. How are you going to insulate your shed, this is what I am thinking through now 🤔
Excellent video! Will be referencing for my own install. The only thing I would have added is to check the connections for leaks with some soapy water. But I understand these seldom do leak.
@parkinglotpatty2911 flare fittings leak all the time, whoever told you they seldom leak is 1, trying to make money on you later, or 2 doesn't have a clue what they are talking about
Great video! unfortunately, I came across this AFTER I had installed my mini-split. I wish I had seen this earlier. For example, I have an appliance dolly like yours, but I didn't think to use it to mount the unit. I muscled it up by myself. My back is still sore. 🤕
Bravely saying "about 2000 dollars" really helps ballpark costs. By now I think everyone knows to look at how old or recent a video is, and they know prices change. Thanks for the video
You have a breaker on the subpanel. The fused disconnect is redundant and more expensive. All you need is the external disconnect. Otherwise, you are one of a few that gets the electrical part spot on, right down to making sure no more 1/2" sheathing remains in an enclosure. Good job.
Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.
I am installing same unit but a double unit. Can the drain be separated to run directly outside and the lines to the unit be run through the attic ? Thank You for your help and great video of the install process !
Don't know if one already exists, but a dual-level wall mount with locking features sounds attractive so the coil could lie flat on level one and the unit could be locked onto level two. Easy to visualize.
I feel I could tackle this project now that Ive seen this video. One question is if I would need to run conduit on the inside exposed wall instead of the NM(non metallic) wire shown here. I know its drilled through the studs, but its exposed so thats why I am asking. So I know what supplies I need for this. Thanks for all your helpful videos!
I need to look into that further. I didn't see horizontal being called out but will update a pinned comment at the top if that is the case. Thanks for the heads up.
It probably would have been to your advantage to mount the outside unit 20 inches from the wall incase you need to get there in the future. It would also increase air flow and make the condenser fan work easier. Had you used an EG4 AC unit. You could connect solar panels directly to the unit. I'm running a 24k unit and on a hot day it's drawing 540 watts until the room cools down. At night it runs under 400 watts. The EG4 AC also comes with precharged lines. I would also recommend Nylon blue on every connection. Stay cool.
I installed a Mr Cool non DIY dual zone split system 3.5 years ago. Both units running great no problems. I really dont like the coiled up line left over with the diy kit.
Hi Scott...... Great video, thank you. I have one question. Since you have a shelf just below the air handler unit, would it be wise to build out the wall frame so the face of the unit is flush or "proud" of the shelf? So that the discharged air from the bottom of the unit does not come in contact with the shelf.
Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.
Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.
Very good video. Clear and step by step. I am going to get the exact one this month. Can you estimate how much it will cost to use it for heating a month? I know there are variables,but a ball park estimate. Thanks
Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.
Raise the external unit higher is a good point too also keep the condenser out of the dirt line on the Wall it will greatly help keep the cooling fins clean in the unit.
One thing to note is that the wall-mount bracket that mrcool sells for the 18k model (which is different than what's shown here) only allows the unit to be 4" from the wall (although mrcool recommmends 6"). But what makes this a real problem is trying to (carefully) bend the refrigerant lines enough to get them aligned well enough to screw the couplings together. I had to unbolt the compressor and move it away from the wall, then screw the couplings together, then carefully bent the lines enough to get the unit back into position.
Just curious, first ty for the good content, second: mr cool has us connect everywhere and release the refrigerant into a system with atmosphere in it? I wonder if they have a nice filter drier meant to clean the gases?
Dude! Hands down, that was one of THE BEST done clip I've ever seen. And I've seen a lot. Bravo. Two questions: My HVAC buddy who will help me on a weekend with this is suggesting a 24k system for my 24 x 36 pole barn that we Spray Foam Insulated with 2" on walls and 3" on ceiling. In your opinion, is 24k overkill? Guy is way smarter about this than me, but I'm just wondering. Or is bigger better? Secondly, he likes Mitsubishi, but it's almost twice the money as Mr. Cool, which I'm reading is a very good system. Money is not the biggest object, but the Mr. Cool seems like a much better VALUE. Can you weigh in? I don't mind spending the money if it's buying something far superior, but I'm not sure the Mitsu buys all that for the delta in price. Thx. Keep up the great work!
Good job. Curious why you didn't mount the inside unit between the 2 shelf units instead of on top of the left one. Sure it will work down to -15 but the heat output at that temp will be so low that your space, unless super insulated, will eventually become too cold to stay in. It's kinda like advertised range of an electric car. They advertise like this in Canada too where it can get really cold in some parts. You will always need a supplemental heat source.
Could one place the "outside" hole further down the wall? I don't like those lines coming out of an exterior wall. I hope to be able to go into the wall behind the unit, run the lines behind the drywall and then out through an exterior hole closer to the ground.
Just a quick glance, either the top plate of the wall you mounted the handler to is out of level or the handler itself is (by about a 1/2-3/4 inch across the length of the handler.) Could just be a trick of the camera as well. Otherwise great install! (Sorry, OCD kicked in.)
Are these DIY units able to be tied into a smart thermostat (i.e., 24v connections)? I have a Reznor gas furnace in my 1,500 sq ft garage controlled via a Nest T-stat. Would like for them to be controlled by one t-stat, with the Mr Cool being stage 1 heat and the gas furnace being stage 2. Also, great instructional video.
Just curious how the unfinished garage affect the effectiveness of the Mini split system? Are you planning to insulate the garage later? I was told by an HVAC person that even though my attached garage has insulation and drywall on the outside walls, the attic above the garage does is not insulated (except on the edges / soffit area) and that I should consider insulating that area and mudding /taping the walls to minimize heat / cold air loss? Great video as always. 👍
Yes, I will need to insulate for this unit to have a hope of not just running all the time. I need an insulated garage door and also will probably be doing closed-cell insulation to keep the garage open to the attic but still get at least single digit R-factor. I will probably try some of the DIY closed-cell insulation kits you can get off Amazon to see how much area they will really cover.
At least as it is now I don't take sponsorships. The company can send the product for free and I will put links to Amazon in my description which does have an affiliate commission (no extra charge to the viewer) but no set amount paid for sponsorship and no control over me sharing my actual experience.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Nice - thanks for sharing. Couple things I forgot in my original post / question was: a) The builder did add insulated garage doors and solid core doors when we built the house back in early 2000s. But it does sound like - for the long term - if we want these units to be really effective in the North star state, we will need to properly insulate the area. b) Curious if you might be willing to share the size of the detached garage. Our attached 3-car garage is roughly 972 sq ft with 12 foot ceilings (not including the attic space). I initially thought perhaps a 18k BTU unit might suffice but just wondering if perhaps we should consider a 24k BTU unit for the area that needs to be covered? Thanks again.
Mr Cool Mini Split (12,000 BTU) - geni.us/xCglvP
Mr Cool Mini Split (18,000 BTU) - geni.us/15IxidC
Mr Cool Mini Split (24,000 BTU) - geni.us/mCmM582
Condenser Mounting Bracket - geni.us/K96RtDU
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.
he also should have drilled his wall hole angled down to the outside to allow a down slop for the water to drain out better naturally....
How did your install go?
Man get up and do something, you have nothing to do? 😅
I liked it again for you 😊
I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep.
One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories.
You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware.
Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation.
In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there.
The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own.
Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs.
It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own.
As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.
Regarding the coiling of the line set,the only thing is that it’s too much…which would restrict the required amount of oil goin back to the compressor but the line set can be vertical with just a U shape behind the condenser and right into the connection.
PVC for the drain pipe is smart. Mine is 3/4 years old and the flimsy tube has been a problem.
@@nicola3060 I think I got mine on Amazon. Reply here if you want me to look up the item and I will. But if it's the same unit as mine, the important thing is the 5/8" ID. It's a bit of an odd-ball size as far as PVC tubing goes so a hardware store may not have it.
"The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. " - ok, i've been wondering about this! my outdoor unit will basically sit behind the indoor, and I don't want this ridiculous coil getting buried by snow, covered in spider webs, etc. are you able to completely get rid of the the refrigerant coil? where did you get your AC Whip?
@guitarchitectural I got it, and all my electrical parts at an electrical supply store...the type of place that caters to the electrical contractors.
I just watched one of your DIY videos. And I was awesome. Then I saw you made one for a Mr. Cool. Great video. For all you out there looking to install one yourself. Do it. I live in Connecticut. One of the highest electric rates in the nation. The average bill bounces up almost 500 bucks a month for June, July, and August. Goes from 200 to 700. It pays for it in savings. Buy the time I brought everything to install my 36,000 btu unit. Wire, 40 amp breaker ect. Was probably about 7 grand. But at 1500 bucks a year. Within 5 years it paid for itself. Very comfortable and quiet. Couldn't be happier. Do it. One of the most satisfying jobs I ever did.
Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.
I have the same issue. In the house it sounds like a truck is driving by the house, even with an entire garage between the condenser and the living space. Can you provide a link for the vibration pads please!!
GREAT VIDEO!!! i was quoted $13,000 to install a mini split in my 850-square-foot house in Las Vegas. . i knew IMMEDIATELY he was a rip-off!!!
Well the confusing part is there are systems that are called mini-splits but its a whole house traditional AC unit with ducting, air handler and ect. Those are expensive
$20,000 for my house for a 4 head install
You could report ir give the company a negative review depending , if it's a very large and elaborate project then I understand but 850 sq foot system eekkkk .
I wonder how many seniors and so on there ripping off , that's like the 80 quote someone gave me to change my 30 second job for the air filter on my vehicle
Yep. I paid $6800 for a 5 zone manifold big Carrier (tall two fans) and three floor mount heads which are more expensive than the ugly over door wall hanger default. Installed.
It was a raised wood floor crawl space victorian cottage 1888 build and the guys were there all day with perfect cut custom lines.
I haven't had a single problem with the system...and happy to have gutted out the old underfloor ducts done in the 1970s now savaged by possums and racoons.
The guys even yanked out much of the dead ducts for me and disposed of them. I had to do about half the remaining dead ducts.
I've helped guys do premade simple systems and it isn't hard when you mount the unit next to panel service and the head is on the adjacent wall.
However that would have been very hard on my old house as the lines snaked under the house like plumbing.
Most (not all) HVAC companies are the biggest thieves out there. $13,000 for a mini split, LOL.
this man is doing god's work explaining this stuff. fixed a bunch of outlets and electrical wiring thanks to him. it's the small stuff but yea.
Happy to help!
@@EverydayHomeRepairsthanks for sharing. One suggestion and I'm not sure it's right because I'm not an expert but it sounds plausible. The coil should be underneath the unit rather than behind it. I guess having it coiled horizontally makes a difference with some type of lubricant in the line. Having it coiled vertically I guess the fluid can't make it back to the compressor.
@@EverydayHomeRepairslet me know what you find out because I'm fixing to install a bunch of mini splits myself.
@@powerguymark Someone did answer this question above. Good luck with thye install. I'm doing the same as soon as the unit gets here.
I don't even believe in god and know darn well this is not gods work.
I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.
One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.
That way it doesn't slug the freon .
Oil trap possibilities?
The system is designed to provide enough velocity to force any refrigerant or oil back to the compressor without issue regardless of coiled lineset orientation.
Now the lines are pre charged with nitrogen ....
Just gets released into the atmosphere ... Keeps moisture out ...ready to connect.
@@jeromepark7002 Is that for all mini splits or just Mr Cool?
It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.
Yeah, I like the concrete pads but wanted to give a wall bracket a shot since I hadn't used one in the past. Thanks for the feedback!
I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..
you but if your smart you want over current protection on your equipment
@@ibewsparky4 That's at the main panel already.
I assume he didn't use a vacuum pump because his refrigerant lines are sealed, some aren't and just have a bell opening, he *Could* use a dry clean gas/extra refrigerant Just to add pressure to check for leaks on his 4 Refrigerant Line nuts and the Service Valves.(Service Valves Closed)
Great video, Scott!
Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect.
Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes.
Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding.
Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.
yup replaced a circuit board already..... every one needs a surge protector....
I just took delivery of my 2nd Mr Cool, this one is a 24,000 btu unit for my workshop. The shop is a separate (from the main house) building with it's own 200 Amp panel. I have already run the 240 circuit using #8 wire with a 35 Amp breaker in EMT out to a non fused service cutoff and all rain tight compression fittings. The compressor will be on a wall bracket. I will be fabricating a special longer bracket in order to hit 3 studs to lag it in. Tomorrow I'll begin installing it, and welding up the custom wall bracket mount.
The main house upstairs Bonus Room had a new Mr Cool already when we got here in March of 2023. I have to say, this is a really wonderful product. It keeps the Bonus Room upstairs at a steady 75 degrees regardless of the month or weather. It is super quiet and so far has worked flawlessly. Like I say, it came with the house but was newly installed just prior to our buying here, so I didn't install it. I'm looking forward to learning all about it when I install this new unit in the workshop. I like the Bonus Room unit so much I decided to go with another one. 5 Stars for Mr Cool. Further, as a solid dedicated DIY guy, I love the pre-charged system and being able to do it all myself.
Nice, best of luck on the project and I like the custom bracket idea to hit 3 studs for a little additional support 👍
@@highland6439 Gosh, I have no idea how to break it out. I have 4 heat pumps on this place. Sorry. But it seems reasonable.
In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.
Searching and watching videos on this for several hours, this is by far the best most thorough video. Excellet
Thanks so much for the feedback.
Nice work! I installed my 1st Mr. Cool in 2018, no issues!
Thank you! Getting ready to install a 12k unit in our garage soon. Loved the extra tips on using and sealing the outside box and of course, being careful not to kink the hoses.
Please mention or note that this mrcool hole saw is an additional expense and not included with every system. Customers call all the time and ask why they didn’t get their hole saw. James at MrCoolDirect
Id also note that the coils of excess line set should remain in a horizontal orientation so the lubricant oil in the system doesn’t pool in the low spots and starve the compressor of oil because of gravity holding oil in the low spots in a vertical coil.
Great very informative video thank you for putting out this video
I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help.
Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow.
I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall.
Mine is a 12k 120 unit.
Good to know, thank you!
One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning.
This was a great video.
Yeah but all hvac need some clean periodically
will I ever do this? Maybe...naw. Did I watch the entire video? YES!
Nice! 😁
I installed one (a 12,000 BTU Blueridge DIY kit) i only needed electrical installed by a pro but did the rest myself!
Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.
Hopefully the condensation tube drains. That hole on the template is for the insude wall. The hole outside must be lower.
Do you suggest maybe making the hole Diagonal, good for the refrigerant lines not bending so hard too.
There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines.
All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves.
"Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed".
You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars.
The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.
Thanks for the feedback. The wall vibration would get old fast 😂.
One of the greatest features of a Mr Cool are the leak proof connectors. Cut and flared lines leak, period. These dont and thats gold for diy ers. Takes the skill and experience out of the equation.
@@slipstreamvids7422 Just use Nylog on the connections and they won’t leak.
should 100% get a vacuum pump and trim the lines to minimum spec. any additional line outside will bleed off heat...
They are pre charged with refrigerant. They sell line sets up to 50 feet. An outdoor condenser is usually only pre charged rated for 16 feet of line. MrCool units, using their line set, can run upwards of 80 feet, with a maximum of 232 total feet for their DIY units. There is no possible way they are over charging their condensers to support 232 total line feet, the unit would not cool effectively at all anymore.
This is from the no-vac pre charged line set customer brochure.
100% Accurately Precharged R410A Refrigerant
15 FT
1.94 OZ
25 FT
3.17 OZ
35 FT
9.77 OZ
50 FT
19.44 OZ
Your voice is relaxing to listen to - I don't even have one of these!
Also, may want to checkbfor leaks with soap water on all supply line connections. Thanks
Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.
Good point, believe it or not we are still on 2014 🙂
There is no GFCI receptacle for 220v
@@sammax4245 No there isn't. The GFCI mentioned isn't about the 240V disconnect. Code asks for an 120V GFCI receptacle within the area of that 240V disconnect for service technicians to be able to use... whether it's a disconnect for a condenser, pool, hot tub, solar PV, etc. For example, an HVAC tech may need to pull a vacuum on the linesets of the condenser. His equipment needs to plug into a receptacle that is obviously GFCI protected.
Not that I agree with it, but code says all condensers need to be on a gfci circuit. Apparently some kid climbed on to a condenser and grabbed a steel fence and died. In the knee jerk country we live in, they now require gfci’s. Yes gfci protected 120v receptical is required as well.
@@ericanderson9004 Whoa! That's a new one. Horrible!
What sucks is the costs of these GFCI breakers are so crazy that it makes people cheat and try to avoid installing them, at the cost of human safety.
Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.
Good point also raises the hole unit 18" to 24 up to keep the condenser clean.
Have a 12 k single ordered. This is the best install video I’ve seen yet. Mine is 115v to cool and heat a 14x28 insulated wood shed. I think it’s going to work great. Thanks for the info. 😎👍
What are the advantages of the 220 v over the 110 v ?
Nice video.
Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit.
Grace and Peace
Slick
That would have been cleaner for sure and I considered it for this garage. I decided to go a more "traditional" route to try and align with what would be more common for the viewer. Thanks for the feedback 👊
100%. That's exactly what I did. The lineset/power cables go directly through the wall straight out to the condenser. For those who aren't working with an insulated, finished interior space, why wouldn't you do it that way??
Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.
If the unit is cycling wouldn’t that means that the unit is larger than the space? Plus is the unit an Inverter?It as 4core 2.5 mm wire which inverters use…so if the garage is not insulated properly,the opposite would happen(the unit will run continuously)which would also ramp up the unit to maximum speed for both the condenser fan and the variable speed compressor.
@r410a6 Yes, causing your electrical bill to increase. Not to mention the strain on your unit ensuring your local HVAC tec a new boat from all the repairs you're going to need. Bottom line is insulate the enclosed area.
These Mr. Cools are made in China by the company who makes "gree", if you want something that will last alot longer go for the Daikin (Japan). Same installation process, like others have mentioned get yourself a Vacuum, and a flare and copper cutter kit to trim those lines properly. Very helpful video by Everyday Repairs.
Daikin AC is made in China too.What’s wrong with Gree AC?
@@dehutech1072 Sorry honey do your research as of March 2024 Daikin Japan no longer relys on parts from China to build its airconditioners however it was always designed and built in Japan. Nothing wrong with gree but it will certainly not last anywhere near as long.
Daiken is a great company, they make Goodman units
We have Gree Air conditioning unit bought 14 years ago and still working fine
Gree makes 2 million units a year.Hey you got lucky@@slbensurto
Another great, useful, well structured, clearly filmed video, Scott. Really well done. Thanks.
You bet, thanks for the feedback and support 🙌
I’ve got 2 24k btu units in my 900 sq ft shop. I only run one except in the hottest and coolest parts of the year. Works great.
The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.
very informative I would like to point out that the line kit is not pre charged the condenser is also would like to point out you should vacuum down the the system (that is what the 3rd cap is for on the condenser). good video
Very good, well done presentation. You explained things better than other presentations I have seen where they left some things a little bit unclear. Your demo is very clear and understandable. Thank you.
Excellent detailed description, and very good video as well. Thanks for taking the time to provide this! Would you please provide some info about your battery/inverter power units? Thanks again!
Wished you showed how you wired it in the breaker box but it pretty self explanatory and will remember to use red tape to label in the future
Have been considering mrCool diy and this video showed me that I think I'll be able to do it... thank you so much... subscribed in order to be able to see what other projects you make look easy...😊
Excellent. Very thorough and easy to follow.
Thx!
I have a Mr Cool 9000 btu Unit, a little over 14 months in use, in August of 2023, unit failed, I couldn't get a response from Mr. Cool. Local HVAC charged over $300 for freon and labor, 8 months later unit failed, finally reached Mr Cool. They didn't care about my having to pay already, plus they demanded $250 to ship like unit one state away. I finally went and picked up the replacement unit. One day (600 miles round trip) and spent $60 in gas to get a replacement "UNDER WARRENTY".
Not a good look mr cool. That's for the heads up.
mr not cool
Outrageous ‼️‼️‼️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️😤😤😤
That's because Mr Cool is garbage. Perfect example of you get what you pay for
NOT the typical experience. People love them for a reason.
Thanks!
Great video as always. Stumbled upon this many months later after installing the eufy security cameras as I am in the market for a couple of these. Intimidating project!
2 grand is a great bargain! For a garage that’s perfect. I’m seriously considering one for my garage. Always great videos!
Great video only thing i will correct you on is that the line set are not charged the refrigerant is actually in the compressor and is released when you open your valves so if you didn't want to coil you line and cut them to length instead you are able to do so
I watched your video on this installation and the one thing that is really important I didn’t see was checking your refrigeration lines for potential leaks because if one of the connections is leaking to repair it you will have to call in a professional to evacuate and weigh in the proper refrigerant charge. If that happens when he’s there you might as well have the line set shortened and if you saved the line cover kit install the line cover so that it covers all the lines to the service port for a nice clean mostly sealed install. The other issues I would address is by mounting the condenser on the wall outside I would recommend about 24 inches above the ground will avoid lawn maintenance issues in the future. Other than that everything else was on point.
That’s the same size I need . I have a back room Ive been a contractor for 39 yrs went thru it all so I’m sure I can handle it. I’ll watch your video.😊nice job and video. That’s a nice bracket too.I’m buying one. I’m just wondering how reliable they are. Looks 👍 great.
Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.
I think installing the provided sleeve regardless of finished or unfinished interior wall would be ideal. Might have to do some extra prep work to support the sleeve properly.
Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.
Just put like a soft mesh screen on it
I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.
Mr.Cool actually recommends putting them vertical.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 that goes against everything I’ve learned - so I checked. Page 27, bottom right: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf
P.27 flat with ground@@bertveldhuizen8699
I installed one of these a couple of years ago and have lost sleep thinking about leaving my lines vertical, but there was really no other choice given all the extra line I had. Even thought about calling in an HVAC company to remove the excess. That said, 2+ years later everything is still working great.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 The Mr. Cool instructions actually say to install the excess in the horizontal position/orientation.
Just curious is it possible to run the lines inside the wall and then drill the hole closer to the bottom so the lines are hidden? I have a shed that is unfinished and thinking about getting a unit or two.
Yes, especially in an unfinished space like I had for the detached garage. How are you going to insulate your shed, this is what I am thinking through now 🤔
That's what I did. Super-clean on the exterior this way.
Another video suggest to have the coil lay flat an not vertical to keep refrigerant oil from pooling.
Excellent video! Will be referencing for my own install. The only thing I would have added is to check the connections for leaks with some soapy water. But I understand these seldom do leak.
@parkinglotpatty2911 flare fittings leak all the time, whoever told you they seldom leak is 1, trying to make money on you later, or 2 doesn't have a clue what they are talking about
@@calebwhitaker2318 calm down, Karen. I said to check them with soapy water.
Great video! unfortunately, I came across this AFTER I had installed my mini-split. I wish I had seen this earlier. For example, I have an appliance dolly like yours, but I didn't think to use it to mount the unit. I muscled it up by myself. My back is still sore. 🤕
Bravely saying "about 2000 dollars" really helps ballpark costs. By now I think everyone knows to look at how old or recent a video is, and they know prices change.
Thanks for the video
You have a breaker on the subpanel. The fused disconnect is redundant and more expensive. All you need is the external disconnect. Otherwise, you are one of a few that gets the electrical part spot on, right down to making sure no more 1/2" sheathing remains in an enclosure. Good job.
This is how you do a DIY video. Thank you.
Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.
Yeah I should have called that out as it looks like 2020 NEC brought that in, we are still on 2014 😀
@@EverydayHomeRepairs That requirement is probably also in your State Mechanical building Code.
I've been an electrician for 22 years. They've required a 120v outlets within 25 feet of refrigeration outdoor equipment since at least 2002.
Nicely done! It does seem like a DIY project laid out like this.
Nice work!
I am installing same unit but a double unit. Can the drain be separated to run directly outside and the lines to the unit be run through the attic ? Thank You for your help and great video of the install process !
I'm wondering the same. I can't believe it wouldn't: just needs to drain
Excellent job, one suggestion would be to leak check prior to wrapping the unions with the supplied wrap
Totally agree, I actually did just somehow left it out during the editing process of the video 🤦♂️
Don't know if one already exists, but a dual-level wall mount with locking features sounds attractive so the coil could lie flat on level one and the unit could be locked onto level two. Easy to visualize.
That would be slick 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Go for it. I'll draw the plans.
Hello, educational videos, but the question is what size wire is needed for a 24k air conditioner from the same manufacturer as yours?
I feel I could tackle this project now that Ive seen this video. One question is if I would need to run conduit on the inside exposed wall instead of the NM(non metallic) wire shown here. I know its drilled through the studs, but its exposed so thats why I am asking. So I know what supplies I need for this. Thanks for all your helpful videos!
What about the refrigerant lines being coiled vertically like that? Wouldn’t that trap oil and starve compressor of oil over time?
I need to look into that further. I didn't see horizontal being called out but will update a pinned comment at the top if that is the case. Thanks for the heads up.
Hello
Love your videos
Does the compressor vibration can be felt inside the building?
Thanks so much. No vibration inside the garage, the rubber pads probably help dampen any vibrations.
It probably would have been to your advantage to mount the outside unit 20 inches from the wall incase you need to get there in the future. It would also increase air flow and make the condenser fan work easier. Had you used an EG4 AC unit. You could connect solar panels directly to the unit. I'm running a 24k unit and on a hot day it's drawing 540 watts until the room cools down. At night it runs under 400 watts. The EG4 AC also comes with precharged lines. I would also recommend Nylon blue on every connection. Stay cool.
I installed a Mr Cool non DIY dual zone split system 3.5 years ago. Both units running great no problems. I really dont like the coiled up line left over with the diy kit.
Great explanation the only thing I could add is you didn’t check for possible leaks
Do you not have to vacuum the refrigerant lines before releasing the refrigerant into the system?
The lines come pre-charged and if everything is done correctly you shouldn't have to pull a vacuum.
Hi Scott...... Great video, thank you. I have one question. Since you have a shelf just below the air handler unit, would it be wise to build out the wall frame so the face of the unit is flush or "proud" of the shelf? So that the discharged air from the bottom of the unit does not come in contact with the shelf.
Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.
Trying to work inside a hot closed garage sucks. Anything to take the edge off. lol, you're not running any motors make sure roof vents are sealed
Is the Bosch inverter system a good pick for high humidity climate areas like Florida where humidity control is a priority?
I would appreciate winter and summer updates on this project, to see how it actually performs in IL.
Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.
Huh, that is actually the first I have heard of safety caps. I appreciate you calling that out.
For small unit like this one has less than 2 pounds of refrigerant doesn't require safety caps.
Could you mount the outdoor unit up higher to leave a ahorter lineset and increase efficiency?
Very good video. Clear and step by step. I am going to get the exact one this month. Can you estimate how much it will cost to use it for heating a month? I know there are variables,but a ball park estimate. Thanks
I'm curious how well this will heat the space over the winter!
I will need to figure out some insulation STAT! I want to keep things open so I think closed cell foam is probably my only option.
Rockwool and a smart vapor barrier membrain allows for access if need be.
Coiling excess lines vertically creates refrigerant oil return trap reducing oil return to compressor.
Mr Cool installation procedures say to install extra refrigerant lines hieizontally. A real pain but understandable.
What about the vibrations mountain to a wall. I heard it's much better mounting to the ground unless you can't. Thoughts?
Curious about the Froth-Pak on the shelf ...
Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.
Raise the external unit higher is a good point too also keep the condenser out of the dirt line on the Wall it will greatly help keep the cooling fins clean in the unit.
One thing to note is that the wall-mount bracket that mrcool sells for the 18k model (which is different than what's shown here) only allows the unit to be 4" from the wall (although mrcool recommmends 6"). But what makes this a real problem is trying to (carefully) bend the refrigerant lines enough to get them aligned well enough to screw the couplings together. I had to unbolt the compressor and move it away from the wall, then screw the couplings together, then carefully bent the lines enough to get the unit back into position.
You'll likely destroy vinyl siding with a holesaw like that unless you know that you put the drill in reverse as you saw through the vinyl.
Just curious, first ty for the good content, second: mr cool has us connect everywhere and release the refrigerant into a system with atmosphere in it?
I wonder if they have a nice filter drier meant to clean the gases?
Dude! Hands down, that was one of THE BEST done clip I've ever seen. And I've seen a lot. Bravo. Two questions: My HVAC buddy who will help me on a weekend with this is suggesting a 24k system for my 24 x 36 pole barn that we Spray Foam Insulated with 2" on walls and 3" on ceiling. In your opinion, is 24k overkill? Guy is way smarter about this than me, but I'm just wondering. Or is bigger better?
Secondly, he likes Mitsubishi, but it's almost twice the money as Mr. Cool, which I'm reading is a very good system. Money is not the biggest object, but the Mr. Cool seems like a much better VALUE. Can you weigh in? I don't mind spending the money if it's buying something far superior, but I'm not sure the Mitsu buys all that for the delta in price. Thx. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for this very helpful information! 👍
You bet!
Great video I’m ready to install mine this weekend nice pointers.
Best of luck on the project!
When you turn on the breaker the fan should start working or you need to turn on the ac unit first
Good job. Curious why you didn't mount the inside unit between the 2 shelf units instead of on top of the left one.
Sure it will work down to -15 but the heat output at that temp will be so low that your space, unless super insulated, will eventually become too cold to stay in. It's kinda like advertised range of an electric car. They advertise like this in Canada too where it can get really cold in some parts. You will always need a supplemental heat source.
Could one place the "outside" hole further down the wall? I don't like those lines coming out of an exterior wall. I hope to be able to go into the wall behind the unit, run the lines behind the drywall and then out through an exterior hole closer to the ground.
What amp AC disconnect are you using ? 13:51. And what AC whip
Just a quick glance, either the top plate of the wall you mounted the handler to is out of level or the handler itself is (by about a 1/2-3/4 inch across the length of the handler.) Could just be a trick of the camera as well. Otherwise great install! (Sorry, OCD kicked in.)
Thanks for the video, definitely informative. Just curious, 2/2 is really all you need for a 18k BTU unit?
Are these DIY units able to be tied into a smart thermostat (i.e., 24v connections)? I have a Reznor gas furnace in my 1,500 sq ft garage controlled via a Nest T-stat. Would like for them to be controlled by one t-stat, with the Mr Cool being stage 1 heat and the gas furnace being stage 2. Also, great instructional video.
Another very well explained tutorial.
Thanks for the support 👍
Woww thanks so much again america is the best teachers on the world
Just curious how the unfinished garage affect the effectiveness of the Mini split system? Are you planning to insulate the garage later? I was told by an HVAC person that even though my attached garage has insulation and drywall on the outside walls, the attic above the garage does is not insulated (except on the edges / soffit area) and that I should consider insulating that area and mudding /taping the walls to minimize heat / cold air loss? Great video as always. 👍
The functionality of the unit is irrelevant. He got paid good money to make this video.
Yes, I will need to insulate for this unit to have a hope of not just running all the time. I need an insulated garage door and also will probably be doing closed-cell insulation to keep the garage open to the attic but still get at least single digit R-factor. I will probably try some of the DIY closed-cell insulation kits you can get off Amazon to see how much area they will really cover.
At least as it is now I don't take sponsorships. The company can send the product for free and I will put links to Amazon in my description which does have an affiliate commission (no extra charge to the viewer) but no set amount paid for sponsorship and no control over me sharing my actual experience.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Nice - thanks for sharing. Couple things I forgot in my original post / question was:
a) The builder did add insulated garage doors and solid core doors when we built the house back in early 2000s. But it does sound like - for the long term - if we want these units to be really effective in the North star state, we will need to properly insulate the area.
b) Curious if you might be willing to share the size of the detached garage. Our attached 3-car garage is roughly 972 sq ft with 12 foot ceilings (not including the attic space). I initially thought perhaps a 18k BTU unit might suffice but just wondering if perhaps we should consider a 24k BTU unit for the area that needs to be covered?
Thanks again.