He should patent it or turn it into a product, if something like that doesn't exist already. It' simple and effective, so I can imagine lots of people needing something like that.
Suggestion for future installs - consider marking off your ceiling cut lines with the edge of blue painters tape. And by using a couple of additional widths of tape around the perimeter of the initial cut, you protect the paint from smudges 👍
man, watching this remind me of the many years i spent in florida attics running lines, ducts, drains, attic change outs, etc. i don't miss it one bit. the young bucks coming into the trade will have cake work after these units replace the traditional systems. clean works boys!!
I would disagree. instead of 1 line set to change, you now have 4+. Instead of 1 drain to worry about clogging, you now have 4+. Imagine having to deal with 4+ condensate pumps!!! Time will tell I guess.
@@Val-xi4we fair enough. but i tried showing new kids in the trade how to build spider plenums, all i got was a deer in head lights. seems as if 4 condensate pumps is lite work to running proper ducting for the new gen. maybe it was just my area and the kids that needed work bad enough to hang out in a 130 F attics all day with another sweaty dude.
I remember installing my first one... I was in Iraq and re- built the failing fun room in front of my "Container Housing Unit" or CHU. I built on a new roof and put up rafters, reinforced the exterior walls, added a couple windows, and I ran a 220 volt 60 amp line to my add on via a new main panel. The only thing I needed was temperature control so I got a hold of a mini split. I then needed a vacuum for the lines since it was brand new. I used my medical suction and was able to get the desired vacuum in the end. That served me well and the new tenant, once I returned to the US, inherited the whole deal. It was a fun project on FOB Warhorse in the Diyala Provence of Iraq.
As a plumber that actually does hvac also , my only suggestion is to not connect all the condensate drains together. It would only take one of them to plug up the "main" drain line and then all of them would have issues.
In Florida because of wind loads and stress on the roof, and especially since you have access to the interior of the gable end wall, I would do a reinforced wall mount with extra king studs to jack studs and two headers to attach the wall mount to. With investment in a few 2x4s, some 8d nails, and a rated mini-split wall mount bracket, a wall mount will not only remove load from the roof but also make roof maintenance and replacement much easier in the future.
@@GeorgeWashingtonLaserMusket In that case, the compressor/condenser part of the unit only weighs around 30kgs, so it doesn't need reinforcing for a 300kg load.
In climates with any humidity, ceiling cassettes installed with their open backsides extending into unconditioned space are going to sweat with condensation. The entire case needs to be well insulated and sealed with a vapor barrier to prevent this. Otherwise there will be mold and possibly ceiling damage from water.
Homeowner installations don't require an inspection (complying with codes) so many problems I see in this install won't get flagged. The insulation, dust, bugs, mold etc in the attic will be pulled into the air handler. And the plastic filters will have to be removed and rinsed out rather often. Easy enough in the units mounted horizontally on the wall but I don't know about these. The units will vibrate if very softly and this will cause some problems with the structure of the house. The wood will transmit these sounds.
All I would add is cleaning these. I know many people think these head units don't require much cleaning but they do. It's unpleasant enough to clean wall mounted units but these on the ceiling also look hard. I have a pretty good method for cleaning my wall units but unless these ceiling units are more serviceable then I'd stick with the wall units. What all these units should have is a simple way to remove the necessary parts for cleaning without getting into all the interlocking plastic parts (and tabs) which makes getting it all back together and quiet a tedious task. If the blower wheel on these ceiling units simply drops down and out (without removing too much plastic housing) then I might be sold. But something tells me that is asking too much.
@25:45 They have a filter at the intake before the fan to keep dust out of the unit. The filter lowers down to help you clean (not change) it. They copied this from the Japanese manufacturers. Do people tear down their attic based central HVAC equipment to scrub the fan blades? No they do not.
I do like the idea, practicality takes over and service on each unit can be tedious. Condensation drain on each unit needs to be checked and cleaned. Great idea, still requires more maintenance than a central unit , but if a central unit isn't possible, this is a good workaround.
Hope you have ample crawl space in attic because any repairs/maintainance will be a bear. Replacing condensate level sensor, replacing condensate pump, cleaning condensate pan, etc., etc..
I have had a Mr. Cool AC/Heating System in my detached garage/shop for over 4 years with no issues...Love it. Im considering removing the HVAC connection from my master bedroom and adding a Mr. Cool Ceiling unit for it. This seems like the perfect idea. Thanks.
@@diyhvacguyblown in insulation is always a lie like this. It’s impossible to get truly even. You need to understand every job will always need a second visit to add material after it’s had time to settle. Therefore blown in should only be used as the addition to the r30 batt or roll already laid in the attic. Used that way the blown in gets to add all its benefits w as few of its downsides as possible.
Can you cover these ceiling units with insulation? What about air sealing between them and your ceiling with caulk and spray foam? I love the look of these units, but I fear they’ll lose a lot of coldness to the attic and let air leak up there. Would love to see how they affect blower door test and thermal camera.
Great video & attention to detail. I should have went this route when I added AC to my furnace a few years ago. I like the fact that you can still heat or cool if one device fails for whatever reason. Nice work.👍🏻
I love the Ladder Crane idea. I use a Ladder Carriage that I built. This is like a platform or shelf that is lifted by a 12V winch. I have used it to lift some 24ft trusses and some solar panels so far.
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! What a great video for this weekend 😊Gracias for always sharing your knowledge and insights and best reviews on ac units and let me tell you that the only unit that has impressed me was the mini split unit powered by solar panels that will be the ac system that I will install in our garage but also improving the attic insulation and seal any possible gaps around the garage door to make sure the unit will work properly and also a unit for my mother house in mexico that will be a great unit to have so she won’t be worried about high electricity bills 😊…Gracias!!! Saludos!!!👋 😊👋You have a great day and weekend!!!😊
@@eastpark4864 she does have electricity Is just that she doesn’t want to have a unit that increases her electricity bill that is what I meant I know y’all think that is a poor country but it’s has developed slowly but surely
Two comments: 1) Ceiling cassettes require condensate pumps. Make sure to add algae prevention to your maintenance plan to avoid clogging the pump (PITA to access the pump on our Mitsubishi units) and 2) Individual room temp controls is fantastic, EXCEPT in Spring/Fall. If you have multiple heads on a single condenser, it can only operate in cooling or heating mode (of course....but people forget). In seasons with big temp swings, folks in different rooms may want heat or cold for comfort. Typically, the first unit turned on in the system will be the master (setting cooling or heating), and the others will be master to that setting.
I personally don't like the idea of having the pump and any service issues like that. It being up high and flush just makes me think getting in there is going to be even harder than with a wall mounted unit. On my wall units I do one cleaning each season to help keep any clogging of the gravity drain line and other grime from building up. Getting to the blower wheel is hard but I have found just using a self-cleaning and washing formula is better than trying to take it all apart each time. I simply turn the wheel and spray it lightly which helps the formula dissolve much of the dirt. BBJ Micro Coil Cleaner etc.
One person wanting heat while another wanting air condition is a non issue. I can’t imagine who would have this big of a discrepancy in house temp and not be able to easily make a compromise. And what would these same people do with a ducted system? Total BS argument.
So Mr Cool is a brand of Midea which is also behind Carrier. As a result, these are really easy to integrate into Home Assistant for full control. Great video, well done.
I did not use Mr cool but went with another unit 24" square. 5 units. Ceiling units. My old outdoor heat pump went bad. For the same price I did a seer 21 5 zone. Controls each room independently. My GF was always less cold in her office so she can turn up the temp. All I had to run was power control cable and two freon lines each unit. Install took me a weekend. Im no expert. Lots of youtube videos. Bought a vacuum pump and torque wrench which I loaned out to neighbors doing mini splits. Abandoned the old ceiling ducts and blower. Huge electricity savings. Old unit 30kw. New unit all going 15kw.. Heat and cool. Great for 3 years now. Maintenance just clean filters monthly.
One of my accounts was the City of Ontario, Oregon. They have a multi-zone system for the Courthouse. Just like this. Only difference is that they had 36 zones. Controlled by Automated Logic DDC CONTROLS.
great info, I like the video. I used to do duct cleaning and system coil cleaning, both sides. So, never ever make drywall dust with ac running. it will mess up the clean system coils! that's how we were called to clean. You can probably run it make it cold, then turn off and work or work at night. or leave the old one running while installing this. but if you are ready to clean them up, go ahead. Go ladder crane!
Wow! Awesome video. I definitely prefers ceiling mounted look. You probably know this, but if you spend some time insulating the roof rafters with even one layer of foam board, I’m sure your house will be super comfortable!
When I build my Shopdominium with living quarters this is definitely a consideration, I only like to cool the rooms I am in the most and if you get a big enough solar panel setup you can save big bucks with this kind of setup.
@@jackrodgersjr NOPE I don't think so - Mini splits have heavily insulated freon lines (not air ducts) from the unit outside (compressor) to the unit in the wall or ceiling. Traditional HVAC's ducts would be far worse up in the attic.
I have two of the Eg4 Solar ACs. In most cases, youd be better off using a dedicated solar system supplying a battery and inverter to an AC system. Even in the southwest, where most days are cloud free, the fluctuation in solar production causes the AC unit to ramp up and down, causing inconsistent cooling through the day. Powering the AC off the solar alone, with out a grid connection doenst cool the house on the hottest of 120 days.
mr cool doesn't even have good nor that efficient of units. all they have is pre-charged + pre vacuumed units. EG4 has much more efficient units also has the solar availability and the pre-charging + pre vacuumed Hopefully more places do this it is silly to use different solar systems to charge specific devices, all your excess power is wasted then. just do a full 1 system
@@RoHo702 Most ancient ac units us a fan and condenser inside a closet in the hot and recycle the cooled and warmed air making them more efficient and cheaper than these units that cool the hot attic air and force it into the rooms. Then the moisture that is removed from the air must be dealt with and in South Florida this is a lot of water and the gunk that grows in the drip pan can be a problem and clog up the pipes and cause an overflow ruining the ceiling. I wonder how these units will handle the algae build up? And the bugs that crawl up the drain pipe and clog it.
Use an oscillating tool to cut through drywall. It’s like butter. So much easier than a saw. I imagine these need to be mounted outside. It’s very convenient that you have a place to mount it that’s close to your crawl space. Do they heat ok in the winter since air rises?
Downside of the Mr Cool pre-charged is that it cost much more than an equivalent mini-split where you evacuate the tubing with a vacuum pump. You can buy a pump for ~$70 (much less than Mr Cool premium) and use it in future AC work, including on your cars. Also, you can't cut and flare the Mr Cool tubing to fit so need to coil the extra.
I may put this system in my guest house I built years ago . All I have out there now is a window air conditioner and electric baseboard heat . Thank you for the info
Would love some post build insulation tips. I have foam spray in my room, but my house is still quite leaky. What love to explore what all the options are out there. pre/post build.
you'll want to throw some fiberglass batt over top of the cassettes in the attic to insulate the conditioned to unconditioned spaces and improve the cassette efficiency
I thought this looked like a great solution until I saw the four strings responsible for raising and lowing the filter. I bet that is the first thing to break on these. Otherwise it looks like a cool system, and great video!
Pretty small room to have two 9k BTU units. Just one 12k BTU would be fine, and probably a 9k too. Ah, that all Midea stuff. Mr Cool doesn't produce AC. Still nice stuff. Midea make like 70% of the WW market stuff. And those have inverter motor, they don't turn on/off, they just modulate the amount of refrigerant you get, by change the speed of the motor.
Awesome install. I really like the multi head setup. My only concern is the filter type. I have a Midea U shape 12000 btu window unit and love the way it cools and it low power draw. It uses the same screen type filter and it allows dust buildup in the blower cage fins and ducts. The problem is cleaning these area's. On a TH-cam video someone put a video up on how to take unit apart to clean the blower cage and ducts. I know your usually do follow ups, so I will hope to see later.
On my wall units I do one cleaning each season to help keep any clogging of the gravity drain line and other grime from building up. Getting to the blower wheel is hard but I have found just using a self-cleaning and washing formula is better than trying to take it all apart each time. I simply turn the wheel and spray it lightly which helps the formula dissolve much of the dirt. BBJ Micro Coil Cleaner etc.
Use Frost King foaming cleaner, as is used for automotive applications that are too difficult to 'take apart'? When you see dirty discharge, you know at least some benefit is gained.
Sawzalls and jigsaws can be fun, but I find the oscillating multi tool (I have a Makita XMT03Z) works surprisingly fast and precisely on drywall cutout jobs like you did on the ceiling. Thank me later and you're welcome.
Awesome content, this is really flexible for people with a house with no or super crappy duct work. I'm getting a new ducted system installed because i have some quality ductwork and that's a lot simpler than installing heads.
@@AgentOffice with my house the payback on room by room vs ducted is non existent. Just the equipment, extra line-set, and plumbing the drainage would cost a fortune. I'd need about 6 heads for proper coverage. Plus I like the higher merv rating on the filtration I get with ducted instead of just a mesh screen. Go run a seer cost calculator on what you actually save vs a less a efficient unit. If you don't have Cali electric prices the payback isn't there. Now if there wasn't ductwork already in place I'd be installing ductless for sure.
@@AgentOffice oh yeah if you're in Cali it'll save thousands for sure. I live in NC our electric rate is .11 cents per kwh and will go down next year due to fuel prices. I use like 1600 kwh a month and with taxes and bs fees from Duke Energy my bill is $250 to $280 a month during the summer with highs in the 90s when we were on our old 12 seer R-12 unit. Getting a new Bryant 2 stage split ducted unit installed next week cause our old unit died. I'm hopeful it'll lower our bill like $30 or $40 bucks a month but that's about all I'm expecting.
from a electrician, a knock out is really made for knocking in, work it from out side the box. and also the cheapest way to save money. ADD insultation, he might be in CODE. but thats the min not whats needed,
Besides, drilling with the unit in will also be hard and leave filings that can lead to a short circuit and failure. Just knock the knockout out while the indoor unit is on the ground. So I am glad the channel shared the problem but I think he gives the wrong solution.
In this house the attic insulation is meant to keep the heat out of the house, not the attic. And the ac unit will use the hot attic air regardless of the insulation and have to cool it, unlike the units installed in a closet in the house which use the recirculated cool air in the home. The attic temperature can soar to 120 or hotter, ask any duct installer. So instead of cooling 80 degree air to 70 you'll have to constantly cool 120 degrees to 70. That's lowering the temperature by 50 degrees rather than 10 or less.
@@jackrodgersjr look its a small insulated box. air in and out in seconds. and the difference on which side of the drywall its on dont matter. and the closet one you are talking about, it runs hundreds of feet of insulated air duct thru the attic, leading it to more exposure to the hot air.
Very cool install, love these ceiling units as they are not so noticeable as on on the wall. I am not sure but in Ontario we use vapor barriers to prevent air going from cold to hot areas and create condensate. This must not be a problem in your area as I see no kind of vapor barrier used in your install.
When I build I'll run 10ft ceilings in the bedroom and 8-9ft in the hallway, then route the AC lines above the hallway inside the air barier + air handler over the doors.
They are self contained condensers and so don't need ducts which means no dust, bugs or bad smells. I enjoyed them in the hospital since I could clean the plastic screens that filter the air.
@@robertball3578 What asbestos are you talking about? Could easily be tested but I doubt it was asbestos. Many homeowners get taken for thousands in unnecessary “remediation”. Just because it may look like something that was once made with asbestos does not mean it is asbestos. If it was asbestos simply covering it with drywall would not make it safer.
That ladder-lift is awesome! Totally make that a one man job. Ahhhh... they drywalled over the popcorn... how funny! Still looks a whole lot better than popcorn! 2 questions: Is 3 tons too large for your home, or are the specs different b/c it's a mini-split AND how far from the exterior wall does your condenser need to be to provide decent airflow? Thanks for the great video!!
12:23 be careful with he magic eraser on mate or flat finishes. It will make the surface slightly shinier. You won't see it around the edge of the head unit, but if it's used in the middle of the ceiling or wall and the light is right, it doesn't look that great and you've got no way to make it flat again except for repainting.
Wish you guys would show and install in a large home>>>>>I would like to see ceiling cassettes installed in a 4 bedroom house with 3 baths. How about adding 1 or 2 cassettes to a garage to heat and cool it also.
Unfortunately, all of the air conditioner manufacturers seem to design most, if not all of their window units and these mini-split systems too, in the same way. With cheap plastic and Styrofoam that readily grows mold and mildew, they're not maintenance or serviceable - friendly, and they all use flimsy, pathetic filters that don't filter the air anywhere near enough to protect the unit from getting excessively dirty and clogged up with mildew, dirt and mold, that's nearly impossible to get clean again, at that point! It's frustrating to spend hard earned money on something and then be forced to have to replace it, in just a few years, because you can't keep it clean enough to continue operating normally, nor efficiently, or just can't clean it well enough, at all, in general. Everything nowadays, seems to be designed as disposable, but with the price of something that should last for decades! So you’re forced to spend more money, sooner than ever before! It's despicable, as far as I'm concerned.
We installed a mini split system with one outside compressor running 4 interior room HVAC wall units. I'm NOT saying these aren't perfect for some situations, but please beware of a couple of considerations. 1. Our mini split cools and heats the air perfectly, except there is no air exchange. Unlike with a conventional system, if you are dealing with something or someone that smells - you can heat or cool the smell, but it's not quickly removed as with a traditional HVAC system. Lastly, our system lasted about 6 months past the warranty. When the installer came back to service he was embarrassed to say that the parts were so tiny in the outside compressor, we would have to replace the unit as repair would have been more expensive than it was worth. Separate conversations with friendsnwho have similar systems exposed the same problem. As of this point in time, we simply aren't running the system at all, and will likely go back and install a traditional duct system.
A standard HVAC unit would just spread the smell out throughout the house. A ERV would be the tool to bring in fresh air, not your furnace or heat pump.
@@phamlam3720 - yes ppl may not realise that ventilation with an ERV - can be done separate to the AC... Air changes with energy retention beats old school..
Could you use the eating old compressor with some modifications? The external unit he installed outside is just the same concept of the standard one outside a house. Don't know what the dynamics would be, of course, but you could find out.
im mexican, here minisplits are the most common thing to have, even on big houses of rich people, you can see mini splits with more than 10 years still running pretty well. The only reason a lot of people started to changing their old mini splits was because inverter technology came in and bring a lot of benefits with it. So i don't know, maybe try to investigate a little bit 🤷♂
I like it but prefer the attic cassettes with short run ducting. We do have one Mitsubishi ceiling cassette in a home gym. The rest of the house, 8 zones are vented out through slot defusers. These type systems however, should become the norm and to just say to conventional ducted systems. No phone apps in my house, just a Mitsubishi thermostat in each zone.
At our previous house I had a Carrier mini split installed for our bedroom and bathroom. Each head unit had an aftermarket condensate pump. I don't know why they did that, but we had to clean the condensation tank about every 3 months due to mold building up inside and inside the drain pipe. Furthermore, the pump motor only lasted a year, so we had to keep replacing the pumps. Our experience was not a good one.
I'm really considering this my main AC 4 ton goodman rooftop unit went out in Aug 2022 I'm in Phoenix wife wanted it fixed by next day. HVAC company took advantage got me for $8900 to replace it with same unit suppose to be 14 seer the old one was R22. This one my electric bill is at least $100 more a month had it checked it's pulling 20 amps a leg. What I think is the R22 seemed to reduce current more when it was cooler like at night, or later in year like now were in the low 100's. I put in a 12k Pioneer inverter mini-split in my garage can't believe how cool it keeps that garage I set it to 79F my home AC is set to 74F go in the garage it feels cooler. I run it on ECO mode it's a 240V model pulling 1.4 amps. I could wall mount it to the side of the roof like yours I have a flat roof and a pitched roof in the middle. My roof is foam so have to mount it on the side of the siding.
Flex style wire cable can be unsecured with a maximum length of 6 feet. The trick is to run flex cable type wire and secure it according to NEC code to within 6 feet of the unit and install a j-box. Then come out of the j-box with your unsecured flex whips.
Very cool to watch the install. Do those electronics boards go out often in those head units? Are they easy to replace? You must have an older home after seeing the old knob and tube in your attic.
You should be boxing those in, air sealing and insulating them, and topping off your attic insulation so you have more than R10 up there. This is a pretty shoddy install.
@@AgentOffice The insulation is for the ceiling of the home below, it has nothing to do with the air in the attic which these ceiling mounted units will have to cool. Install them on the wall for more efficiency as they will the use the cooler air instead of the hot attic air
This is pretty much what you see inside Japanese commercial buildings. I believe, I could be wrong. Japanese residential houses have single units or splits that look like single units. No central heating or cooling. I think they are more efficient than US HVAC, but most Japanese homes have very inadequate insulation and they end cycling a lot more than they should.
It’s an installers dream, but customers nightmare. More components to go bad, I went on a call customers roofing had a leak and the 2 units where full of water damage. Parts were on back order. Bathrooms had no ac was their biggest complaint.
Two small question: 1.With the dack system you get constand exchan of air from contaminated to fresh. How you will manage that with this split units? You have seperate ventilation system with air exchange unit? 2. Wher the water condensation go from this split unit.
I hope you got that insulation and ceiling board tested for asbestos before you started working. That insulation looked an awful lot like Vermiculite...
Something to note about "knockout" tabs is that they were never meant to be directly struck with a hammer... you get a screwdriver at the corner opposite the thin 'join' line and tap it until you have enough room to use the screwdriver as a wedge to widen the gap. Then use Channel locks or needle nose pliers to grab the tab and twist and/ or wiggle the tab loose... swinging hammers around electrical equipment is bad juju in most circumstances, even without power connected. Also be extra cautious that you meticulously clean up the chips from that step drill and don't let them get into anything or you will have arcs and sparks and a dead unit to replace. I am also curious to know why those are 3 Phase breakers in a house (which is a rarity in most residential units) that is generally wired single phase unless you specifically have 3 phase wiring available...either that or it is being fed by the condenser unit? I may be mistaken, but I would really like to see how they did the wiring distribution for those. Other than that, a pretty decent job overall and I really like the ladder hoist!
It may be a common way to deal with asbestos but it really does little to solve the problem. A local Ag extension can easily test the material. Many materials suspected to be asbestos are not. After its ban, manufactures continued to make the same style of flooring, siding, and ceiling panels as well as texture materials with alternative materials. This catered to existing marketing styles. Many homeowners have been taken by unscrupulous contractors for expensive remediation that was not needed. If it was asbestos drywall will not keep you safe. Baring full encapsulation, removal with air quality monitoring is the better solution.
@@earleford8889 Oh, I'm well aware of asbestos testing. Generally the cheaper PLM method will overstate the amount of asbestos. I set up a policy that we would screen with PLM, then if it's 5% or lower, we would verify with the point count method, which is far more accurate.
I am building a house, planning on mini splits. These new type ceiling units would be great if they didn't mark them up so high. Really not that much more to them than the exposed wall units, but they think the things are made of gold. it's just a different mounting for the same basic components... Why is the 18k BTU with ceiling unit almost the price of the traditional mount 36k BTU? That's insane. I'm a fan of using 4 single zone sets instead of 1 4 zone outdoor unit. If one of the single zone systems goes down for any reason, you still have 3 completely functional zones. A couple of box fans and you can keep the whole house livable, instead of the one unit taking down the entire system, leaving you panic buying window units to deal with those 110 F days here in Texas.
I hate those fine screen "filters" They make you think you are filtering when you aren't They only get larger particles. Like a dryer lint screen. When enough lint builds up, they actually start filtering... Needs to use the replaceable "furnace filters" Your unit will live longer with a better filter.
Why not just replace your old air conditioner with a High efficiency inverter heat pump you’ve got ductwork? Heat in the ceiling, always leaves the floor feeling cold.
Ladder Crane set up is super sweet !!
He should patent it or turn it into a product, if something like that doesn't exist already. It' simple and effective, so I can imagine lots of people needing something like that.
Wow that lift is genius I would love to see a full video on that 👍👍👍
th-cam.com/video/xuiIaLX_JDo/w-d-xo.html
Suggestion for future installs - consider marking off your ceiling cut lines with the edge of blue painters tape. And by using a couple of additional widths of tape around the perimeter of the initial cut, you protect the paint from smudges 👍
man, watching this remind me of the many years i spent in florida attics running lines, ducts, drains, attic change outs, etc. i don't miss it one bit. the young bucks coming into the trade will have cake work after these units replace the traditional systems.
clean works boys!!
I would disagree. instead of 1 line set to change, you now have 4+. Instead of 1 drain to worry about clogging, you now have 4+. Imagine having to deal with 4+ condensate pumps!!! Time will tell I guess.
@@Val-xi4we fair enough. but i tried showing new kids in the trade how to build spider plenums, all i got was a deer in head lights. seems as if 4 condensate pumps is lite work to running proper ducting for the new gen. maybe it was just my area and the kids that needed work bad enough to hang out in a 130 F attics all day with another sweaty dude.
@8:38 - love seeing those old knob and tube wiring connectors. What a sense of nostalgia!
saved many tubes from old retrofits... cute windchime dream catcher
I remember installing my first one... I was in Iraq and re- built the failing fun room in front of my "Container Housing Unit" or CHU. I built on a new roof and put up rafters, reinforced the exterior walls, added a couple windows, and I ran a 220 volt 60 amp line to my add on via a new main panel. The only thing I needed was temperature control so I got a hold of a mini split. I then needed a vacuum for the lines since it was brand new. I used my medical suction and was able to get the desired vacuum in the end. That served me well and the new tenant, once I returned to the US, inherited the whole deal. It was a fun project on FOB Warhorse in the Diyala Provence of Iraq.
Thumbs up on your ladder crane! Nice implementation!
As a plumber that actually does hvac also , my only suggestion is to not connect all the condensate drains together. It would only take one of them to plug up the "main" drain line and then all of them would have issues.
I'm SO glad slimline units exist, now! Every ceiling cassette I saw, before, was a big square. This would be PERFECT for my house
Similar units have been available from Honeywell and others for decades and used in hospitals and other institutions.
@@jackrodgersjr At residential joist standard sizes?
In Florida because of wind loads and stress on the roof, and especially since you have access to the interior of the gable end wall, I would do a reinforced wall mount with extra king studs to jack studs and two headers to attach the wall mount to. With investment in a few 2x4s, some 8d nails, and a rated mini-split wall mount bracket, a wall mount will not only remove load from the roof but also make roof maintenance and replacement much easier in the future.
You don't need to go to that sort of effort, most indoor units only weigh about 10kgs - 20lbs, or about the same as a 40-50inch TV.
@@stevegraham3817 I believe he's talking about the exterior part. "wall mount" not ceiling mount for a ceiling cassette system.
@@GeorgeWashingtonLaserMusket In that case, the compressor/condenser part of the unit only weighs around 30kgs, so it doesn't need reinforcing for a 300kg load.
In climates with any humidity, ceiling cassettes installed with their open backsides extending into unconditioned space are going to sweat with condensation.
The entire case needs to be well insulated and sealed with a vapor barrier to prevent this. Otherwise there will be mold and possibly ceiling damage from water.
Use some foam board around the units in the attic. Insulate around the unit and reduce all the loose insulation build up around the unit.
I'd also add 6-12" of blow in insuation
@@stevec7272 The insulation doesn’t cool the attic it acts as a barrier to the hot air in the attic to the cool air in the home below.
@@jackrodgersjr no sh*t
@@jackrodgersjr😂 Captain Obvious strikes again
Nice install. In most states, it's against code to have your condensate drain line going into a wet stack. Love the homemade ladder hoist.
Homeowner installations don't require an inspection (complying with codes) so many problems I see in this install won't get flagged. The insulation, dust, bugs, mold etc in the attic will be pulled into the air handler. And the plastic filters will have to be removed and rinsed out rather often. Easy enough in the units mounted horizontally on the wall but I don't know about these.
The units will vibrate if very softly and this will cause some problems with the structure of the house. The wood will transmit these sounds.
@@jackrodgersjrIOW you don’t sell these.
All I would add is cleaning these. I know many people think these head units don't require much cleaning but they do. It's unpleasant enough to clean wall mounted units but these on the ceiling also look hard. I have a pretty good method for cleaning my wall units but unless these ceiling units are more serviceable then I'd stick with the wall units. What all these units should have is a simple way to remove the necessary parts for cleaning without getting into all the interlocking plastic parts (and tabs) which makes getting it all back together and quiet a tedious task. If the blower wheel on these ceiling units simply drops down and out (without removing too much plastic housing) then I might be sold. But something tells me that is asking too much.
@25:45 They have a filter at the intake before the fan to keep dust out of the unit. The filter lowers down to help you clean (not change) it. They copied this from the Japanese manufacturers. Do people tear down their attic based central HVAC equipment to scrub the fan blades? No they do not.
I do like the idea, practicality takes over and service on each unit can be tedious. Condensation drain on each unit needs to be checked and cleaned. Great idea, still requires more maintenance than a central unit , but if a central unit isn't possible, this is a good workaround.
@karlInSanDiego we do pull and clean evap coils and blower motors.
Hope you have ample crawl space in attic because any repairs/maintainance will be a bear. Replacing condensate level sensor, replacing condensate pump, cleaning condensate pan, etc., etc..
@@freonpeon472I believe that is all accessible from below as the attic side is really the outside of a steel spot welded box.
That Ladder Crane is Genius!!
I have had a Mr. Cool AC/Heating System in my detached garage/shop for over 4 years with no issues...Love it. Im considering removing the HVAC connection from my master bedroom and adding a Mr. Cool Ceiling unit for it. This seems like the perfect idea. Thanks.
Hey Dave I suggest you blow in another 8 to 12" of insulation. It makes a HUGE difference in how much energy you will use and it is all DIY
Yes it’s crazy how much that stuff settled. There was a solid 14” when I blew that in and now it’s touching the rafters!
@@diyhvacguyblown in insulation is always a lie like this. It’s impossible to get truly even. You need to understand every job will always need a second visit to add material after it’s had time to settle.
Therefore blown in should only be used as the addition to the r30 batt or roll already laid in the attic. Used that way the blown in gets to add all its benefits w as few of its downsides as possible.
Can you cover these ceiling units with insulation? What about air sealing between them and your ceiling with caulk and spray foam? I love the look of these units, but I fear they’ll lose a lot of coldness to the attic and let air leak up there. Would love to see how they affect blower door test and thermal camera.
Great video & attention to detail. I should have went this route when I added AC to my furnace a few years ago. I like the fact that you can still heat or cool if one device fails for whatever reason. Nice work.👍🏻
I can't change a light bulb, 😂 so I love watching you work. 👍
I love the Ladder Crane idea.
I use a Ladder Carriage that I built.
This is like a platform or shelf that is lifted by a 12V winch.
I have used it to lift some 24ft trusses and some solar panels so far.
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! What a great video for this weekend 😊Gracias for always sharing your knowledge and insights and best reviews on ac units and let me tell you that the only unit that has impressed me was the mini split unit powered by solar panels that will be the ac system that I will install in our garage but also improving the attic insulation and seal any possible gaps around the garage door to make sure the unit will work properly and also a unit for my mother house in mexico that will be a great unit to have so she won’t be worried about high electricity bills 😊…Gracias!!! Saludos!!!👋 😊👋You have a great day and weekend!!!😊
@@eastpark4864 she does have electricity Is just that she doesn’t want to have a unit that increases her electricity bill that is what I meant I know y’all think that is a poor country but it’s has developed slowly but surely
On tool lift setup, you didn't need to lower the voltage, the winch would just run a little faster. Been there done that.
Two comments: 1) Ceiling cassettes require condensate pumps. Make sure to add algae prevention to your maintenance plan to avoid clogging the pump (PITA to access the pump on our Mitsubishi units) and 2) Individual room temp controls is fantastic, EXCEPT in Spring/Fall. If you have multiple heads on a single condenser, it can only operate in cooling or heating mode (of course....but people forget). In seasons with big temp swings, folks in different rooms may want heat or cold for comfort. Typically, the first unit turned on in the system will be the master (setting cooling or heating), and the others will be master to that setting.
I personally don't like the idea of having the pump and any service issues like that. It being up high and flush just makes me think getting in there is going to be even harder than with a wall mounted unit. On my wall units I do one cleaning each season to help keep any clogging of the gravity drain line and other grime from building up. Getting to the blower wheel is hard but I have found just using a self-cleaning and washing formula is better than trying to take it all apart each time. I simply turn the wheel and spray it lightly which helps the formula dissolve much of the dirt. BBJ Micro Coil Cleaner etc.
Great comment, thanks.
Mitsubishi makes units that can heat and cool at the same time, pricy? oh yeah....but the tech is there....just saying.
Mr cool cassettes have a built in pump. Iirc it's rated for 29" vertical.
One person wanting heat while another wanting air condition is a non issue. I can’t imagine who would have this big of a discrepancy in house temp and not be able to easily make a compromise. And what would these same people do with a ducted system? Total BS argument.
So Mr Cool is a brand of Midea which is also behind Carrier. As a result, these are really easy to integrate into Home Assistant for full control.
Great video, well done.
love the old original K and T (Knob and Tube) electrical fittings. see a lot of those in older houses.
That ladder crane is awesome.
Your method of putting the compressor on the roof is awesome!!!
I did not use Mr cool but went with another unit 24" square. 5 units. Ceiling units. My old outdoor heat pump went bad. For the same price I did a seer 21 5 zone. Controls each room independently. My GF was always less cold in her office so she can turn up the temp. All I had to run was power control cable and two freon lines each unit. Install took me a weekend. Im no expert. Lots of youtube videos. Bought a vacuum pump and torque wrench which I loaned out to neighbors doing mini splits. Abandoned the old ceiling ducts and blower. Huge electricity savings. Old unit 30kw. New unit all going 15kw.. Heat and cool. Great for 3 years now. Maintenance just clean filters monthly.
What brand did you go with?
@@ebullientwhee8878 c&h
Which brand?
@@MadLadsAnonymous Cooper and Hunter. CH
The best thing about these minis is the end of the bug and dust filled ducts. One reason why I don't use our ac.
you made my weekend. my old 2 story house bleeds money every winter, thanks so much, there is hope.
One of my accounts was the City of Ontario, Oregon. They have a multi-zone system for the Courthouse. Just like this. Only difference is that they had 36 zones. Controlled by Automated Logic DDC CONTROLS.
great info, I like the video. I used to do duct cleaning and system coil cleaning, both sides. So, never ever make drywall dust with ac running. it will mess up the clean system coils! that's how we were called to clean. You can probably run it make it cold, then turn off and work or work at night. or leave the old one running while installing this. but if you are ready to clean them up, go ahead. Go ladder crane!
Wow! Awesome video. I definitely prefers ceiling mounted look. You probably know this, but if you spend some time insulating the roof rafters with even one layer of foam board, I’m sure your house will be super comfortable!
When I build my Shopdominium with living quarters this is definitely a consideration, I only like to cool the rooms I am in the most and if you get a big enough solar panel setup you can save big bucks with this kind of setup.
Great house updates Dave! I’m sure the separate zones are awesome!
I didn't know you could mount any of these in the ceiling, excellent information.
Same here. Planning to put one in my 2 car garage since I'm spending lot of time there and no wall is free for a traditional unit.
Ceiling cassette it's new
It's the worst place as it will have to cool 130 F air versus the under 80 F air inside a house. Mount it on the wall and save electricity $$.
@@jackrodgersjr it's heavily insulated
@@jackrodgersjr NOPE I don't think so - Mini splits have heavily insulated freon lines (not air ducts) from the unit outside (compressor) to the unit in the wall or ceiling. Traditional HVAC's ducts would be far worse up in the attic.
Ladder crane is an awesome idea, liked it a lot!
Man, I wish these were an option when I got my minisplit system installed in 2021. These are so much cleaner than the wall-mounted units I have!
Now if only Mr. Cool would make a solar system for their mini split systems.
I have two of the Eg4 Solar ACs. In most cases, youd be better off using a dedicated solar system supplying a battery and inverter to an AC system. Even in the southwest, where most days are cloud free, the fluctuation in solar production causes the AC unit to ramp up and down, causing inconsistent cooling through the day. Powering the AC off the solar alone, with out a grid connection doenst cool the house on the hottest of 120 days.
mr cool doesn't even have good nor that efficient of units. all they have is pre-charged + pre vacuumed units. EG4 has much more efficient units also has the solar availability and the pre-charging + pre vacuumed
Hopefully more places do this
it is silly to use different solar systems to charge specific devices, all your excess power is wasted then. just do a full 1 system
@@RoHo702 Most ancient ac units us a fan and condenser inside a closet in the hot and recycle the cooled and warmed air making them more efficient and cheaper than these units that cool the hot attic air and force it into the rooms. Then the moisture that is removed from the air must be dealt with and in South Florida this is a lot of water and the gunk that grows in the drip pan can be a problem and clog up the pipes and cause an overflow ruining the ceiling. I wonder how these units will handle the algae build up? And the bugs that crawl up the drain pipe and clog it.
I like this channel. Learning so much.
Use an oscillating tool to cut through drywall. It’s like butter. So much easier than a saw.
I imagine these need to be mounted outside. It’s very convenient that you have a place to mount it that’s close to your crawl space. Do they heat ok in the winter since air rises?
love the ladder crane!
Downside of the Mr Cool pre-charged is that it cost much more than an equivalent mini-split where you evacuate the tubing with a vacuum pump. You can buy a pump for ~$70 (much less than Mr Cool premium) and use it in future AC work, including on your cars. Also, you can't cut and flare the Mr Cool tubing to fit so need to coil the extra.
Also they have lots of other minor issues after about 1 year....
You also need a set of gauges.
they are ewaste if anything fails...
How do you feel about the Mitsubishi mini-splits? More reliable? Better performance?
@@cryptogenik 7 years with a Mr. Cool. Zero issues.
I may put this system in my guest house I built years ago . All I have out there now is a window air conditioner and electric baseboard heat . Thank you for the info
Would love some post build insulation tips. I have foam spray in my room, but my house is still quite leaky. What love to explore what all the options are out there. pre/post build.
Actics have several opening to the outside. Walk around your house and look up at the edge extending from the walls and you will find them.
I've installed these with two split units but not ceiling type split. It was inverter type so it used a lot less wattage. Thank you for the Vid.
you'll want to throw some fiberglass batt over top of the cassettes in the attic to insulate the conditioned to unconditioned spaces and improve the cassette efficiency
I thought this looked like a great solution until I saw the four strings responsible for raising and lowing the filter. I bet that is the first thing to break on these. Otherwise it looks like a cool system, and great video!
How often are you lowering your filter. I would like to see you break the steel braided cable.
Pretty small room to have two 9k BTU units. Just one 12k BTU would be fine, and probably a 9k too. Ah, that all Midea stuff. Mr Cool doesn't produce AC. Still nice stuff. Midea make like 70% of the WW market stuff. And those have inverter motor, they don't turn on/off, they just modulate the amount of refrigerant you get, by change the speed of the motor.
Awesome install. I really like the multi head setup. My only concern is the filter type. I have a Midea U shape 12000 btu window unit and love the way it cools and it low power draw. It uses the same screen type filter and it allows dust buildup in the blower cage fins and ducts. The problem is cleaning these area's. On a TH-cam video someone put a video up on how to take unit apart to clean the blower cage and ducts. I know your usually do follow ups, so I will hope to see later.
That is the problem with all these low static units
On my wall units I do one cleaning each season to help keep any clogging of the gravity drain line and other grime from building up. Getting to the blower wheel is hard but I have found just using a self-cleaning and washing formula is better than trying to take it all apart each time. I simply turn the wheel and spray it lightly which helps the formula dissolve much of the dirt. BBJ Micro Coil Cleaner etc.
With no insulation over the heads in the attic these ceiling systems must be less efficient than wall mount overall.
Use Frost King foaming cleaner, as is used for automotive applications that are too difficult to 'take apart'? When you see dirty discharge, you know at least some benefit is gained.
Sawzalls and jigsaws can be fun, but I find the oscillating multi tool (I have a Makita XMT03Z) works surprisingly fast and precisely on drywall cutout jobs like you did on the ceiling. Thank me later and you're welcome.
Awesome content, this is really flexible for people with a house with no or super crappy duct work. I'm getting a new ducted system installed because i have some quality ductwork and that's a lot simpler than installing heads.
Room by room saves thousands tho
@@AgentOffice with my house the payback on room by room vs ducted is non existent. Just the equipment, extra line-set, and plumbing the drainage would cost a fortune. I'd need about 6 heads for proper coverage. Plus I like the higher merv rating on the filtration I get with ducted instead of just a mesh screen. Go run a seer cost calculator on what you actually save vs a less a efficient unit. If you don't have Cali electric prices the payback isn't there. Now if there wasn't ductwork already in place I'd be installing ductless for sure.
@@mathehack1 true I'm in cali and can keep one room freezing when outside is 110 almost free
@@AgentOffice oh yeah if you're in Cali it'll save thousands for sure. I live in NC our electric rate is .11 cents per kwh and will go down next year due to fuel prices. I use like 1600 kwh a month and with taxes and bs fees from Duke Energy my bill is $250 to $280 a month during the summer with highs in the 90s when we were on our old 12 seer R-12 unit. Getting a new Bryant 2 stage split ducted unit installed next week cause our old unit died. I'm hopeful it'll lower our bill like $30 or $40 bucks a month but that's about all I'm expecting.
@@mathehack1 wow here if I use central maybe 1500 in summer
Hey, that was way too easy to bring that to the roof💚
Sick ladder winch!
from a electrician, a knock out is really made for knocking in, work it from out side the box. and also the cheapest way to save money. ADD insultation, he might be in CODE. but thats the min not whats needed,
I was about to say the same thing.
Besides, drilling with the unit in will also be hard and leave filings that can lead to a short circuit and failure. Just knock the knockout out while the indoor unit is on the ground. So I am glad the channel shared the problem but I think he gives the wrong solution.
In this house the attic insulation is meant to keep the heat out of the house, not the attic. And the ac unit will use the hot attic air regardless of the insulation and have to cool it, unlike the units installed in a closet in the house which use the recirculated cool air in the home. The attic temperature can soar to 120 or hotter, ask any duct installer. So instead of cooling 80 degree air to 70 you'll have to constantly cool 120 degrees to 70. That's lowering the temperature by 50 degrees rather than 10 or less.
@@jackrodgersjr look its a small insulated box. air in and out in seconds. and the difference on which side of the drywall its on dont matter. and the closet one you are talking about, it runs hundreds of feet of insulated air duct thru the attic, leading it to more exposure to the hot air.
Franklin Sensors has the best stud finders I've ever used, I have a M210.
Very cool install, love these ceiling units as they are not so noticeable as on on the wall. I am not sure but in Ontario we use vapor barriers to prevent air going from cold to hot areas and create condensate. This must not be a problem in your area as I see no kind of vapor barrier used in your install.
When I build I'll run 10ft ceilings in the bedroom and 8-9ft in the hallway, then route the AC lines above the hallway inside the air barier + air handler over the doors.
Love this! What a game changer! Thank you!
That attic was so big and unobstructed I would have had no problem running ducts but these hew units seem to be getting better and better.
They are self contained condensers and so don't need ducts which means no dust, bugs or bad smells. I enjoyed them in the hospital since I could clean the plastic screens that filter the air.
@@jackrodgersjr No shit.
Thanks for the lesson.
Also I’d definitely blow in more cellulose insulation. My parents did that and our house is almost too warm in the winter now. 😂
Always gonna me a bit mess, nice video!
New drywall placed straight over the old popcorn ceiling. A flipper has definitely had their hands on that house.
Probably tested positive for asbestos so they just covered it up.
Oh yeah, wonder what other fun half assed "repairs" and "upgrades" he'll find over the next decade of owning that house.
If done correctly, what is the issue with that? Especially if asbestos is suspected.
It saves the cost of asbestos abatement.
@@robertball3578 What asbestos are you talking about? Could easily be tested but I doubt it was asbestos. Many homeowners get taken for thousands in unnecessary “remediation”. Just because it may look like something that was once made with asbestos does not mean it is asbestos. If it was asbestos simply covering it with drywall would not make it safer.
Bravo!!!!!! Bravo on the ladder Crane!!!!!
That ladder-lift is awesome! Totally make that a one man job. Ahhhh... they drywalled over the popcorn... how funny! Still looks a whole lot better than popcorn!
2 questions: Is 3 tons too large for your home, or are the specs different b/c it's a mini-split AND how far from the exterior wall does your condenser need to be to provide decent airflow?
Thanks for the great video!!
12:23 be careful with he magic eraser on mate or flat finishes. It will make the surface slightly shinier. You won't see it around the edge of the head unit, but if it's used in the middle of the ceiling or wall and the light is right, it doesn't look that great and you've got no way to make it flat again except for repainting.
Can you do a guide for that ladder lifter?
Very nice work!
Wish you guys would show and install in a large home>>>>>I would like to see ceiling cassettes installed in a 4 bedroom house with 3 baths.
How about adding 1 or 2 cassettes to a garage to heat and cool it also.
The downside to the minisplit systems is the lack of a quality filter system. The coil will get very dirty.
Unfortunately, all of the air conditioner manufacturers seem to design most, if not all of their window units and these mini-split systems too, in the same way. With cheap plastic and Styrofoam that readily grows mold and mildew, they're not maintenance or serviceable - friendly, and they all use flimsy, pathetic filters that don't filter the air anywhere near enough to protect the unit from getting excessively dirty and clogged up with mildew, dirt and mold, that's nearly impossible to get clean again, at that point! It's frustrating to spend hard earned money on something and then be forced to have to replace it, in just a few years, because you can't keep it clean enough to continue operating normally, nor efficiently, or just can't clean it well enough, at all, in general. Everything nowadays, seems to be designed as disposable, but with the price of something that should last for decades! So you’re forced to spend more money, sooner than ever before! It's despicable, as far as I'm concerned.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR INSIGHT😊
Two strips from a plastic pallet would be a great set of shims for the base
I believe your p-trap is upside down.....
More curious about the Alvarez acoustic guitar hanging on the wall, looks like one of the vintage good ones..
you NEED to secure the bottom of that ladder!
We installed a mini split system with one outside compressor running 4 interior room HVAC wall units. I'm NOT saying these aren't perfect for some situations, but please beware of a couple of considerations. 1. Our mini split cools and heats the air perfectly, except there is no air exchange. Unlike with a conventional system, if you are dealing with something or someone that smells - you can heat or cool the smell, but it's not quickly removed as with a traditional HVAC system. Lastly, our system lasted about 6 months past the warranty. When the installer came back to service he was embarrassed to say that the parts were so tiny in the outside compressor, we would have to replace the unit as repair would have been more expensive than it was worth. Separate conversations with friendsnwho have similar systems exposed the same problem. As of this point in time, we simply aren't running the system at all, and will likely go back and install a traditional duct system.
A standard HVAC unit would just spread the smell out throughout the house.
A ERV would be the tool to bring in fresh air, not your furnace or heat pump.
@@phamlam3720 - yes ppl may not realise that ventilation with an ERV - can be done separate to the AC... Air changes with energy retention beats old school..
Could you use the eating old compressor with some modifications? The external unit he installed outside is just the same concept of the standard one outside a house. Don't know what the dynamics would be, of course, but you could find out.
Can’t wait 2/3 years for the DIY “replacing our mini split” videos
im mexican, here minisplits are the most common thing to have, even on big houses of rich people, you can see mini splits with more than 10 years still running pretty well. The only reason a lot of people started to changing their old mini splits was because inverter technology came in and bring a lot of benefits with it. So i don't know, maybe try to investigate a little bit 🤷♂
They can last 20 years no problem. Mine are getting that old.
I like it but prefer the attic cassettes with short run ducting. We do have one Mitsubishi ceiling cassette in a home gym. The rest of the house, 8 zones are vented out through slot defusers. These type systems however, should become the norm and to just say to conventional ducted systems. No phone apps in my house, just a Mitsubishi thermostat in each zone.
I love the comedy !😅
At our previous house I had a Carrier mini split installed for our bedroom and bathroom. Each head unit had an aftermarket condensate pump. I don't know why they did that, but we had to clean the condensation tank about every 3 months due to mold building up inside and inside the drain pipe. Furthermore, the pump motor only lasted a year, so we had to keep replacing the pumps. Our experience was not a good one.
This looks like it would be perfect for a SIPS built house.
I'm really considering this my main AC 4 ton goodman rooftop unit went out in Aug 2022 I'm in Phoenix wife wanted it fixed by next day. HVAC company took advantage got me for $8900 to replace it with same unit suppose to be 14 seer the old one was R22. This one my electric bill is at least $100 more a month had it checked it's pulling 20 amps a leg. What I think is the R22 seemed to reduce current more when it was cooler like at night, or later in year like now were in the low 100's. I put in a 12k Pioneer inverter mini-split in my garage can't believe how cool it keeps that garage I set it to 79F my home AC is set to 74F go in the garage it feels cooler. I run it on ECO mode it's a 240V model pulling 1.4 amps. I could wall mount it to the side of the roof like yours I have a flat roof and a pitched roof in the middle. My roof is foam so have to mount it on the side of the siding.
Flex style wire cable can be unsecured with a maximum length of 6 feet. The trick is to run flex cable type wire and secure it according to NEC code to within 6 feet of the unit and install a j-box. Then come out of the j-box with your unsecured flex whips.
Isn't that P trap installed by your helper upside down??
I notice that too, but they could say they were joking
They would notice that the first overflow.
Very cool to watch the install. Do those electronics boards go out often in those head units? Are they easy to replace? You must have an older home after seeing the old knob and tube in your attic.
You should be boxing those in, air sealing and insulating them, and topping off your attic insulation so you have more than R10 up there. This is a pretty shoddy install.
LOL
You may not want to do that actually
@@maxbiker99 why?
@@superspeeder He foamed around them.
Yeah I was thinking that. Not sure what the climate is where this was installed, but there was nothing in the video about vapour barrier tie ins
That tool is a million dollar idea.
The drawback of these ceiling mount units is drainage and accessibility.
They're amazing tho
The unit is now in the hot attic, it's more energy efficient to avoid the attic.
@@robertball3578 it's heavily insulated inside
And the 130 F attic heat they are constantly having to cool instead of the 80 F inside the house.
@@AgentOffice The insulation is for the ceiling of the home below, it has nothing to do with the air in the attic which these ceiling mounted units will have to cool. Install them on the wall for more efficiency as they will the use the cooler air instead of the hot attic air
Great review. Was wondering how they dealt with the condesate
The ladder crane was worth pulling over for.
This is pretty much what you see inside Japanese commercial buildings. I believe, I could be wrong.
Japanese residential houses have single units or splits that look like single units. No central heating or cooling. I think they are more efficient than US HVAC, but most Japanese homes have very inadequate insulation and they end cycling a lot more than they should.
It’s an installers dream, but customers nightmare. More components to go bad, I went on a call customers roofing had a leak and the 2 units where full of water damage. Parts were on back order.
Bathrooms had no ac was their biggest complaint.
Oh yes! Bathroom A/C is a must for all those hours spent in there.
My bathroom must have a AC I’d never get dried off without it and a small fan blowing on me
@@sharonp4446 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looks good. Did you move? I thought you had a furnace with a heat pump system?
Two small question: 1.With the dack system you get constand exchan of air from contaminated to fresh. How you will manage that with this split units? You have seperate ventilation system with air exchange unit? 2. Wher the water condensation go from this split unit.
Great video Thank you
I hope you got that insulation and ceiling board tested for asbestos before you started working. That insulation looked an awful lot like Vermiculite...
in europe we were installing this over 25 years ago
You may want to change your tywraps to the stainless steel type.
They will last longer.
Something to note about "knockout" tabs is that they were never meant to be directly struck with a hammer... you get a screwdriver at the corner opposite the thin 'join' line and tap it until you have enough room to use the screwdriver as a wedge to widen the gap. Then use Channel locks or needle nose pliers to grab the tab and twist and/ or wiggle the tab loose... swinging hammers around electrical equipment is bad juju in most circumstances, even without power connected. Also be extra cautious that you meticulously clean up the chips from that step drill and don't let them get into anything or you will have arcs and sparks and a dead unit to replace. I am also curious to know why those are 3 Phase breakers in a house (which is a rarity in most residential units) that is generally wired single phase unless you specifically have 3 phase wiring available...either that or it is being fed by the condenser unit? I may be mistaken, but I would really like to see how they did the wiring distribution for those. Other than that, a pretty decent job overall and I really like the ladder hoist!
I hope that popcorn didn't have asbestos. Common method of dealing with asbestos-laden popcorn ceiling is to just add a layer of drywall...
It may be a common way to deal with asbestos but it really does little to solve the problem. A local Ag extension can easily test the material. Many materials suspected to be asbestos are not. After its ban, manufactures continued to make the same style of flooring, siding, and ceiling panels as well as texture materials with alternative materials. This catered to existing marketing styles. Many homeowners have been taken by unscrupulous contractors for expensive remediation that was not needed. If it was asbestos drywall will not keep you safe. Baring full encapsulation, removal with air quality monitoring is the better solution.
@@earleford8889 Oh, I'm well aware of asbestos testing. Generally the cheaper PLM method will overstate the amount of asbestos. I set up a policy that we would screen with PLM, then if it's 5% or lower, we would verify with the point count method, which is far more accurate.
I am building a house, planning on mini splits.
These new type ceiling units would be great if they didn't mark them up so high. Really not that much more to them than the exposed wall units, but they think the things are made of gold.
it's just a different mounting for the same basic components... Why is the 18k BTU with ceiling unit almost the price of the traditional mount 36k BTU? That's insane.
I'm a fan of using 4 single zone sets instead of 1 4 zone outdoor unit. If one of the single zone systems goes down for any reason, you still have 3 completely functional zones. A couple of box fans and you can keep the whole house livable, instead of the one unit taking down the entire system, leaving you panic buying window units to deal with those 110 F days here in Texas.
I hate those fine screen "filters" They make you think you are filtering when you aren't They only get larger particles. Like a dryer lint screen. When enough lint builds up, they actually start filtering...
Needs to use the replaceable "furnace filters"
Your unit will live longer with a better filter.
Why not just replace your old air conditioner with a High efficiency inverter heat pump you’ve got ductwork?
Heat in the ceiling, always leaves the floor feeling cold.