This is looking real good Paul. Certainly doesn't look like a DIY job when it's all buttoned up. Very well engineered, and installed by a DIY professional. (if that's possible)😊
When I installed my indoor unit, it was recommended that that the hole for the lineset and condensate drain be drilled at a slightly downward angle from the inside to the outside. This ensured that drain line would slope out of house and drain correctly without any blockage. Oddly the flange for the hole liner was perpendicular to liner so the flange would not lay flat against the wall. I ended up trimming some of the flange off the liner so it would wit a bit more 'flush'.
One of the nice things about these multi-head units is that your total head BTU can exceed your outdoor units BTU rating. In this case Paul has 9k+9k+9k+12k or 37k on a 48k (4 ton) condensor unit. He could still install another 12k or 18k head on that system and still be fine. You cant exceed the 48k supply from condenser, but it will just throttle down the heads when demand exceeds the condenser limit. But here is the thing, how often would you be running all five heads full tilt?
Excellent video. Love how you explained everything in detail. I need to install a similar system. I was wondering if there's any advantage or disadvantage or running all the lines through just one hole on the outside wall and via the basement's ceiling and coming out to each individual room?
you want your excess coils laying horizontally. Not vertically. Apparently refrigerant oil will separate and settle in the low spots of a vertical coil and reduce efficiency (or worse 🤷🏻♂️.. I just know not to do it)
Is there an extra power/communication wire included with each lineset? How does an extra length of wire connect if it is too short? Is there a wiring harness, or do you need to splice it?
Line set comes with all the wiring in with the line set. You specify what length line sets you want when ordering. You can extend it if you want and it comes with everything necessary.
@Patriot3791 yep, and you have to be careful with traps on low flow devices like this. The liquid in the trap can evaporate faster than condensate fills the trap. This is more of a problem in the winter when no condensate is created from the units.
How did distance factor in to designing your system? As far as were cooling heads would be to the condenser. And the electrical supply. Could you of run two seperate units and come out better as far as costs go? Love watching your channel! And when you set your simpson ties in concrete. Can the bottom of them actually make contact with the concrete or even be buried in the concrete some. Thank you for all you do!!
Distance wasn't a major factor other than ordering the right size line sets...the only downside to a DIY setup and pre-charged line sets. They are available in 16, 25, 35, 50, 66, and 75 foot lengths. I have 3-5' left on a couple of the line sets. Can't speak to efficiency but going with one unit is definitely easier on setup and less expensive. Plus I can add one more head to this unit. I'm using 39k of an available 48k. This unit is about $5600 on Amazon, just a quick check if I purchased two units with two heads each, it would be roughly $6000 or more.
We use Sturdi-Wall brand brackets, from Midwest Parma-Column. This is taken straight from their testing and installation documentation: "When Sturdi-Wall Plus brackets are placed in wet concrete, care shall be taken to ensure that the concrete is not so wet that the brackets sink below the base plate and not so dry that the concrete will not flow around and adhere to the rebar. Ideally, the consistency of the concrete should be such that the rebar can be easily inserted in the concrete and the base of the steel bracket can float on the surface of the concrete. The entire length of rebar shall be embedded in the concrete such that the bottom of the steel base plate bears on the surface of the concrete."
Can it be over sized? I think my contractor did because I wanted to make it 68 in the 98 degree heat. He did a 24k Mitsubishi in a 2 car attached garage.
Sure, it can be oversized, but it will reduce efficiency. However, any ac/hp system should be sized to the expected average conditions, not the extreme events, to get the best efficiency out of system.
At least Trane,carrier,york have a distribution network, there are no distributors providing parts for Mr cool. The online stores that may say they sell their parts have none in stock. And with a few exceptions I haven't had and major issues getting parts for any major brand equipment.
@@markbuchele2118 It sounds like you are in the industry. I was just speaking for the units i have had to have repaired over the past few years. But the past few years were "unprecedented". I hope the dealer networks and parts distributors get on the ball as the units are really impressive and seem to be staying around and not just a fad. There is a time and place for them, and def a time and place for traditionally ducted systems.
I have to agree on the "anybody should be able to do it" aspect; somewhere on that design team is a guy with lots of bashed thumbs and bruised fingers- the set up logic and way markers make it hard to not succeed. Additionally, as an owner a lot of simple home diagnostics will be much easier. They are also beginning to market some evaporator heads that are for installation in a ceiling pocket. Mitsubishi has rea;;y pulled out the stops on this concept- and beta tested it all over Asia over the last twenty years. From my POV as an HVAC tech, I would have preferred all the drains run to the outside on the dame side as the condenser; it's easier to routinely check if they are all working. In high humidity areas, it usually means putting in a dry well- a hole with rock in it to diffuse the water. There is an old technician's proverb to help you along; "It only has to work for you", and "If you guaranteed it, look at it one more time before you leave it.". For a DIY fella , you do pretty fine work Mr. Marshall! Best to Em and All!
My MrCool broke a bunch of times. I had to buy another system cause the company refused to send parts to fix it. By the way that's not a DIY you just voided the warranty. They make It look DIY but it's not
This is looking real good Paul. Certainly doesn't look like a DIY job when it's all buttoned up. Very well engineered, and installed by a DIY professional. (if that's possible)😊
When I installed my indoor unit, it was recommended that that the hole for the lineset and condensate drain be drilled at a slightly downward angle from the inside to the outside. This ensured that drain line would slope out of house and drain correctly without any blockage. Oddly the flange for the hole liner was perpendicular to liner so the flange would not lay flat against the wall. I ended up trimming some of the flange off the liner so it would wit a bit more 'flush'.
You make it look easy peasy!
It's a great DIY system...I think the hardest part is figuring out the electrical.
Boy I'm really looking forward to installing a similar system in my storage garage! Everything is looking fantastic!!
Thanks!
One of the nice things about these multi-head units is that your total head BTU can exceed your outdoor units BTU rating. In this case Paul has 9k+9k+9k+12k or 37k on a 48k (4 ton) condensor unit. He could still install another 12k or 18k head on that system and still be fine. You cant exceed the 48k supply from condenser, but it will just throttle down the heads when demand exceeds the condenser limit. But here is the thing, how often would you be running all five heads full tilt?
And Paul, when you get around to converting that truss space above the garage, that would be a perfect place for the 5th head.
That would be a perfect location for the 5th head.
Excellent video. Love how you explained everything in detail. I need to install a similar system. I was wondering if there's any advantage or disadvantage or running all the lines through just one hole on the outside wall and via the basement's ceiling and coming out to each individual room?
Doesn’t placing the condensate line at the bottom of the connection set make it more susceptible to becoming pinched and flow restriction?
How much efficiency is gained by having the extra line set pancakes laying vertical vs. horizontal?
you want your excess coils laying horizontally. Not vertically. Apparently refrigerant oil will separate and settle in the low spots of a vertical coil and reduce efficiency (or worse 🤷🏻♂️.. I just know not to do it)
The manual does say to lay them horizontally...I contacted MRCOOL and they said either way is fine.
What size braker? Single 30amp maybe double 20amp.. i need to know if my box can handle the 48k
How's work coming on 'Paul's Playpen'?
Is there an extra power/communication wire included with each lineset? How does an extra length of wire connect if it is too short? Is there a wiring harness, or do you need to splice it?
Line set comes with all the wiring in with the line set. You specify what length line sets you want when ordering. You can extend it if you want and it comes with everything necessary.
I don’t understand the trap for the condensate line(s) running to the canning kitchen.
So gas and odor from the septic tank don’t come into the house.
@Patriot3791 yep, and you have to be careful with traps on low flow devices like this. The liquid in the trap can evaporate faster than condensate fills the trap. This is more of a problem in the winter when no condensate is created from the units.
How did distance factor in to designing your system?
As far as were cooling heads would be to the condenser. And the electrical supply. Could you of run two seperate units and come out better as far as costs go?
Love watching your channel!
And when you set your simpson ties in concrete. Can the bottom of them actually make contact with the concrete or even be buried in the concrete some.
Thank you for all you do!!
Distance wasn't a major factor other than ordering the right size line sets...the only downside to a DIY setup and pre-charged line sets. They are available in 16, 25, 35, 50, 66, and 75 foot lengths. I have 3-5' left on a couple of the line sets.
Can't speak to efficiency but going with one unit is definitely easier on setup and less expensive. Plus I can add one more head to this unit. I'm using 39k of an available 48k. This unit is about $5600 on Amazon, just a quick check if I purchased two units with two heads each, it would be roughly $6000 or more.
We use Sturdi-Wall brand brackets, from Midwest Parma-Column. This is taken straight from their testing and installation documentation:
"When Sturdi-Wall Plus brackets are placed in wet concrete, care shall be taken to ensure that the concrete is not so wet that the brackets sink below the base plate and not so dry that the concrete will not flow around and adhere to the rebar. Ideally, the consistency of the concrete should be such that the rebar can be easily inserted in the concrete and the base of the steel bracket can float on the surface of the concrete. The entire length of rebar shall be embedded in the concrete such that the bottom of the steel base plate bears on the surface of the concrete."
Can it be over sized? I think my contractor did because I wanted to make it 68 in the 98 degree heat. He did a 24k Mitsubishi in a 2 car attached garage.
Sure, it can be oversized, but it will reduce efficiency. However, any ac/hp system should be sized to the expected average conditions, not the extreme events, to get the best efficiency out of system.
Can you run these through attics?
Yes - however if the drain line goes vertical you will need a condensate pump. Otherwise the condensate tray will overflow.
I want to know what’s the monthly cost on this?
Where you going to buy parts when these mr cool units need repaired?
lol, cause my trane, carrier and york units have had lots of spare parts available the last few years.
At least Trane,carrier,york have a distribution network, there are no distributors providing parts for Mr cool. The online stores that may say they sell their parts have none in stock.
And with a few exceptions I haven't had and major issues getting parts for any major brand equipment.
@@markbuchele2118 It sounds like you are in the industry. I was just speaking for the units i have had to have repaired over the past few years. But the past few years were "unprecedented". I hope the dealer networks and parts distributors get on the ball as the units are really impressive and seem to be staying around and not just a fad. There is a time and place for them, and def a time and place for traditionally ducted systems.
I have to agree on the "anybody should be able to do it" aspect; somewhere on that design team is a guy with lots of bashed thumbs and bruised fingers- the set up logic and way markers make it hard to not succeed. Additionally, as an owner a lot of simple home diagnostics will be much easier. They are also beginning to market some evaporator heads that are for installation in a ceiling pocket. Mitsubishi has rea;;y pulled out the stops on this concept- and beta tested it all over Asia over the last twenty years. From my POV as an HVAC tech, I would have preferred all the drains run to the outside on the dame side as the condenser; it's easier to routinely check if they are all working. In high humidity areas, it usually means putting in a dry well- a hole with rock in it to diffuse the water. There is an old technician's proverb to help you along; "It only has to work for you", and "If you guaranteed it, look at it one more time before you leave it.". For a DIY fella , you do pretty fine work Mr. Marshall! Best to Em and All!
Crazy how much these have improved over the last 5 - 10 years. Easy install...thanks!
You keep calling the compressor the condenser?
He’s saying it correctly. The condenser is the entire unit outside. The compressor is one of the components inside the condenser.
My MrCool broke a bunch of times. I had to buy another system cause the company refused to send parts to fix it.
By the way that's not a DIY you just voided the warranty. They make It look DIY but it's not
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