DIY MULTI-ZONE Ductless MINI SPLIT Installation in New Construction!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Learn how to install a DIY multi-zone ductless mini split system as new construction rough-in! This DIY mini-split system provides air conditioning and a heat pump for heating, plus this multi-zone unit allows for independent climate control, all with one outdoor condenser! bit.ly/mrcoolmu...
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The attention to detail on this project, especially around air sealing the exterior envelope is commendable. I work on high performance and passive house multifamily projects and the types of details you are installing are exactly what we should be seeing for efficient and resilient buildings. One issue we see is that as you say in the video, these types of minisplit systems can be way too over sized for smaller homes. You may find that come summer time, you struggle to fully dehumidify the home. The issue at play is that the systems have so much output that they can meet the cooling demand for the building before they have a chance to effectively dehumidify. If that becomes an issue you could try only running one of the minisplits and leaving the doors open so that the cooling demand for the building is better matched to the output of the unit. You just need to ensure good air circulation between the spaces.
I'm actually fairly sure you open the refrigerant valve first THEN check for leaks (I noticed you added sound deadening before opening the valve too). Either way, great video!
As a structural engineer, drilling such large holes through the plates is a no-no, but an easy fix is to strap across using CS16 straps on either side. Or using 2x blocking between the studs just below the top plate and strapping across there. Ditto for the sole plate.
This is so very helpful - thank you! I've been looking for hours how to set the minisplit lines through an interior wall - 2 x 4 non-load bearing bottom plate myself. Going to try to go with the smallest hole size I can, but these lines are thick.
This guy starts every statement with..." As a structural engineer"
As a structural engineer you have zero friends
@@TheDarkdanik says the guy trolling folks on the internet over comments that are 2 years old
I was wondering the same thing after seeing such large hole! Thanks for explaining this!
Currently one of my favorite build series on TH-cam. Thanks for all the hard work putting it together!
Thanks for watching!
@@craftedworkshopwhat happen when your tubing are not long enough can you add another to one to extend the leght . May you needd to add more refiregentant in the line ??
Nice trick with the laser to hit the studs with the drywall screws!
Oh yea, works great!
Its funny that they dont show how to vacuum the lines and check for keaks this inf is half ways poor video no thanks. Sorry
@@JorgeRodriguez-uy1mr The lines are pre-charged with refrigerant. No vacuum pump needed. I'm a universal certified HVAC technician.
I actually forgot to watch last week's episode, but it turned out just fine since I got to watch 2 episodes in a row today! :D
Same thing happened to me! 😂
Hah, lucky you!
Me three
Glad you got that unit off the exterior wall and onto concrete blocks. My condenser sends a weird vibration through the house when it is running.
Mines sounds like a car is running outside lol
Glad you got it sorted out, I am really enjoying the build!
Two notes from our own Mr.Cool install for people considering trying it ( we put in two of these multi-head systems in our place)
1. Use a torque wrench when making connections and torque to the values specified in the manual. I cannot over stress how hellish it is to try and isolate a leak when you have between 8 and 16 connections on a full unit. Just....do it properly the first time.
2. Be super careful with any type of expansion foam around the lineset. If you are going to use it, make sure it has room to expand and isn't between the lineset and a stationary surface. It can expand and crimp the drain line, causing all kind of water damage and worse in an in-wall application like this. The only bonus is if that happens, you'll know pretty quick 😂
Good tips!
Just don't use vinyl drainline. Run the vinyl into 3/4" pvc. The pvc won't clog as often
Take a sip every time he says, "go ahead". Just kidding. Thanks for sharing. It's interesting to see these types of units become more popular in North America.
First time I saw these were in a bed/breakfast in Sicily years ago. They had them on proximity sensors so when you entered the room they would kick on, and turn off after a few minutes when exiting. I was amazed at how well they worked, took literally a few minutes to get the the desired temp. They’ve since blown up here in the US.
You did one heck of a job explaining everything. I believe I can now install my unit. Ty sir.
I am very impressed. I love how you explain everything in detail and the care you do for all your work. Great work ethic.
Thank you very much!
Great video everything was explained perfectly. Don’t criticize this guy because you can’t comprehend what you’re seeing.
8:54 Leak test should be done after the refrigerant is released into the lineset.
Don't the DIY lines come precharged? Since the fitting are the puncture style, wouldn't tightening the fittings together release the refrigerant in the lines?
@@lvlikeyV pre vacuumed not pre charged
The lines are pre charged. From mr cool. “25 ft. precharged line set, can be easily installed by the homeowner. No special equipment, training, or tools are required to install thanks to the pre-charged quick connect DIY line set.”
Interesting video and very instructional. A couple of suggestions though:
Leaks should be checked after the valve off the unit is opened. It does no good to check for leaks if the system isn’t pressurized. Also, even though the unit is pre charged it is a MUST to put the evaporator units and lines under vacuum. These lines introduce air and dirt into the system otherwise. Any moisture and dirt from the manufacturing process will cause issues with your entire mini-split system and will lead to malfunction and or failure.
Otherwise excellent video!
mr cool lines are pre charged at the factory,
Impressed with the drywall tools.
Fantastic video, Johnny! Loving this series!
I have been using ductless mini splits for more than a decade and they typically last 10 years. It is best to have the system set up in a way that you can completely replace everything every 10 years. Routing the line sets behind the dry wall is a recipe for disaster unless you are ok with completely replacing the drywall along with the AC. Just my two cents. Great video.
If I have three units, can the temp be controlled independently or do they all have to be set to heat or cold?
@@Kat-pr7qc If you have a situation where you have three units in three rooms and each has hugely different temperature requirements, for example one needs to be heated while the other needs to be cooled at the same time, then you should get three heads with three separate compressors. On the other hand, if you want to cool three rooms and they all run at similar temperatures then go with a single multi zone compressor and three heads.
Wondering if the lines could be snaked back in using the shop vac method in one of the first videos?
Why replace the lines just connect the new components.
Five years ago I installed mini-splits in my existing home, but half the interior walls are concrete block and half are lath and plaster. I did the refrigerant lines differently, connecting them outside the wall and tucking them inside the unit. The so called "communication wire" in mine has a full 220 Volts and I was not comfortable leaving what is basically an extension cord open to rodents to eat. So instead I used metal conduit and #14 wire. The lineset was too short on one so I had to braze some more copper on it. Of course last weekend the controller board crapped out so I guess it is going to be a pile of scrap metal soon.
Friendly tip: The building code for drywal aplication is one screw every 12 inches. You probably used a box of scews for that house. Interior walls you mudered with soooo many screws. But drywall glue two dabs per stud on the wal before installing the board and one scew in the middle of the sheet. Get some training before you train others. Fyi, to cut out a box, always go counterclockwise to avoid blowouts. Using angleiron for backing can save you on time when you need backing.
The detail on this series is awesome. I look forward to every video
Thanks Cullen!
We found out the hard way, fire foam is not to code as fire block. You need fire block caulking. This product expands when burned so it continues to pluck the gap as material burns away.
We started a 2hour burn wall and luckily were told early on in the build of our mistakes. Had to dig out all of the foam around rafters and floor joists and replace with caulk.
Thanks for the video.
11:30 🤣🤣🤣 i was thinking it, but Johnny beat me to it
You are one of the best dyi youtubers, have you ever thought about getting licensed as an architect?
I’ve considered getting licensed as a contractor so I could build more houses!
How did you check the line sets for leaks before you had pressure on the system? Not sure I would want compression refrigerant fittings in a wall without access.
I was thinking the same thing...
Also, if you didn't vac the lines, you'll end up with a small amount of moisture in them which "they say" can degrade the life of the compressor.
Or did I miss something?
@@NobukiPhu you don't vac the lines.
@@NobukiPhu Not they say. It WILL create acid in the oil of the compressor and create a burnout.
@@NobukiPhu The lines are already prepared, internally dry, and are of a set length from the factory. No vac necessary. It is a unique part of the DIY series from the company Mr. Cool. Downside is the set length.
I have installed two of these in my home. The lines are not pressurized the compressor is. If you fail to pull a vacuum on the lines you will have moisture in the system.
How can you test for leaks on the initial lines before they're connected to the compressor?
These mini splits are awesome. I have 2!
i have 3 bedrooms upstairs. Can I run linesets through the attic?
i believe you can tbh. make sure to get alot of copper and brass equipment
Another excellent video that covers much of what the others don’t. The only point I would add is that when cutting LP Smart Siding, you need to wear a respirator or at the very least, a decent grade dust mask, because the siding is impregnated with a anti-termite agent that is highly toxic to humans. Cheers!
You may have oversized the indoor units the system may short cycle and to get the moisture out of the air.
The more I see these, the more I want one. Nice job on the install! Thanks for sharing!
Just finished my multi zone install this was super useful!!! 🔥🔥
Nice dude, glad I could help!
How loud is the outdoor unit?
How long are the lines?
@@lakesidecollision4763 you can get 16 ft or 25 ft lengths
@@nickmpower not bad at all, can’t really hear it inside even before insulation is installed.
How did you pressurized the system to check for leaks with the soapy water without the outside unit plugged and turned on? Air compressor?
Thr actual lines have gas in them, so are under pressure.
@@benoitrochon589 hum... I'm pretty used to install this type of AC and have never seen the pipes loaded with gasses from factory, the gas is inside the outside unit, only when you connect everything and release the valves the gas loads the pipes and go to the condenser pressurizing the system. He was testing for leaks without the external unit plugged, that's why I didn't understand it.
@@luxtempestas go check the MrCool website. Their lines are pre-loaded.
@@benoitrochon589 nice, never seen this!
@@benoitrochon589 so the connectors are keeping the lines pressurized? So the gases don't leave the line from an open end?
How did you check for leaks without pressure system ?
I'm wondering how as well? Great series btw, thanks a lot.
I came to ask this question. How?
Same. Inquiring minds need to know!
Actually good question.
System is full of pressurized refrigerant.
I've seen the ads for these units on IG. Crazy funny! But seeing you actually install and use them has me thinking they're legit. I need a unit for my downstairs. Might be using these now. Thank you 👍
they've been all over Asia for decades.
@@salmonline he’s referring to the mr cool brand units.
I was just about to order this same unit. Thank you for the great video. I wasn't to worried about it but it is so useful to see it done first.
Being a person who likes things streamlined I get the process of running as much as possible out of sight...
Being a person who has to fix the stuff that breaks in my house I would’ve run the lines up the outside of the house - through PVC pipe inside (as a conduit, inside the walls) and used industry standard covers outside... that way you have access to service the lines. And access hatches at all mechanical joints, because.....
This was funny cuz a edited video makes it look alot easier lol especially with the foundation lifted but at the end of the day good job
Perfect placement of TWSS
How did you check for leaks before you opened the charging screw? Are the lines under pressure before allowing refrigerant to flow into the line sets?
This is what Im wondering....it doesn't make any sense lol, and usually you gotta vacum them out too.
@@chrisleslie1988 as long as these have been out on the market, I'm surprised people still ask this question. The lines are pre charged with refrigerant. No need to pull a vacuum. Mr. Cool has made them that way for years, and they run great.
@@gp37128 It depends on which units the Mr Cool is. It looks like these are the quick connectors which would be pre pressurized lines. I'm installing the Pioneer system in my house right now.
I'm surprised that not many people know of the Zamna Climate mini split AC and heat pumps that are DIY just the same as Mr Cool units. It would be really cool if you could get one of these units for the house.
They are solar ready meaning they run off direct power from solar panels - NO SOLAR INVERTER NEEDED. However, they do accept connections from the grid, so you can call them hybrids.
I'm actually running a few of these in Jamaica 🇯🇲 right now. The 12000btu runs off 3 solar panels and the 18000btu works with 5-6 panels (405W).
The company that makes and sells them are based in the United States - Zamna Solutions | Zamna Climate. If you should reach out to them just let them know Rayon from Jamaica 🇯🇲 sent you the info ✌🏼.
Vendo esse video eu percebi que eu trabalho muito bem! 😅
Com as ferramentas que tenho e opções que temos disponíveis eu consigo fazer um bom trabalho! 😁
How can you check for leaks before you open the refrigerant valve? It’s like checking for water leaks with the water off
According to some of the other comments, those line sets don’t end up with refrigerant in them. Maybe we should watch a Mr cool video. Must get to the bottom of this mystery!
This is a mrcool dyi unit which has refrigerant in their lines. They connect and then that opens them up.
You look professional. Great work
So please explain what the soapy water test on the inside connection of the line set accomplishes when the lines are not under pressure.
All Line-sets and units are pre-charged. So everything is pressurized from the factory.
@@zacharywhite8230 Not true. Compressor is pre-charged with enough refrigerant for 25 feet...The line sets are not pressurized. If they were, you would still break the vacuum while terminating to the condenser and evaporator. You would still want to charge the system with nitrogen, leak test, then vacuum down the system whilst removing the nitrogen charge. Then while there is still a vacuum, you would release the refrigerant all while keeping an eye on the gauges to ensure you are within maker plate specs. They (Mr.Cool) does call these 'DIY', but if you read the manual, it also states that a professional who is licensed to deal with refrigerant should perform the final turn-up.
@@uswcboy then they need to quit leading people on about having Line sets ready to go.
@@uswcboy this is a mrcool dyi unit. Their linesets have refrigerant in them.
@@zacharywhite8230 If you tube is the source of information, or being lead, then they will continue to lead. If you research the items and look at the facts, no one is being lead anywhere.
Great video Justin Gaethje!
Question: i have a 5 way mini split and I did everything in your video, but the outdoor unit isn't turning on. What can I do to have the outdoor unit spinning?
First thing you never bury flared or especially puncture fittings inside the walls that is a huge risk you need to learn how to rough in your line sets and then hang your indoor units specially after construction is done you never install completely the inside units during construction
There is a reason good hvac companies charge what they do . WE know what we’re doing
I’m wondering how he is leak testing the unit without pressure in the lines🤔 maybe I’m missing something
@@albertbootle6854 I wondered the same thing
@@albertbootle6854 i was also wondering. 😅
There's no pressure on the lines how can you test for leaks
@@jackdickson2095
These are cheap pre charged line sets with puncture fittings . Again would never suggest putting mechanical fitting buried in the walls not good practice .
Also ! , don’t buy mr cool units you will find out there’s no local support from any hvac dealer .
Thanks for this! I have my 18k waiting to be installed in the garage shop before these 100 degree months hit us here in Las Vegas lol. Just waiting on the HOA to approve it.
Nice, that’ll be nice!
Did you have to order extra linesets to span the distance or did the ones included in kit long enough?
Nicely done sir
How did you test for leaks? Used compressed nitrogen to a certain pressure? How did you evacuate all air and moisture from all line sets before introducing refrigerant?
The newest version (the one I have) has prefilled lines with quick connect that dont require purge (from what I understand)
The lines are zero loss fittings, and come Pre-charged. He tested with soapy water as demoed on the video
Thank you, that was extremely helpful! 😊
how do you manage the temperare in bathrooms? great job btw and thanks for your reply
I have an exhaust fan with a built-in heater for the winter months, but it stays comfortable during the summer months as long as you're not taking an hour long shower.
This is great, thanks. one thing, is there any point in 'checking for leaks' before charging the lines? i mean, if you haven't opened up the valves on the unit, then there is no pressure in the lines to push bubbles out, right?
Honest question.
I was wondering the same thing. unless the lines have some in it and when you connect them it opens somehow.
Thank you very much .. for how you explain very impressed
Sweet, changing over to one of these in the near future. Do you order those lines whatever length you want or just pick from premade lengths?
Nice job looks good can't wait to see more videos on this great project. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
What amp breaker did you use?
Is there a reason you did not mud, sand, and paint before hanging?
Can you substitute pex hose for drain lines instead of the original drain pipe?
Nice video. I have two questions: one is about checking leaks, do you open the valve a few seconds to check leaks? if no leaks then open fully open valves, right? The other is about the master valve, you mentioned it was not recorded. But where is the master valve located? Thank you.
I'm confused. When you connected the lines, you checked them for leaks by spraying on the soap solution. Later, when the lines were connected to the compressor unit outside, you opened valves and charged the lines with refrigerant, again checking for leaks. What was in the lines after hook up that would have created a pressure differential to check for leaks as the lines hadn't been charged with refrigerant until later?
Wondering the same thing. How did he check for leaks in the first couple checks?
And didn’t Vac the system..
@@keithrogers3241 you don't need to. This is the DIY system
Watch the video, the line sets come precharged.
If you see bubbles get bigger with air then there's a leak
Your information is useful
Glad you think so!
How did you check for leaks before introducing refrigerant to the system?
Soap bubbles. This is only because this system is dyi. Otherwise you use dry nitrogen to check for leaks on typical hvac systems.
@@sprockkets thats what I mean, if there is no pressure in the line, there's nothing to bubble up through the soap to show a leak
Very well documented video.👍
Question on the bottom wall where u placed the big minisplit how much weight can those studs hold? PLAN on hanging a 83 90lb tv on it. Do u think it's a good idea?
Are you installing access doors in drywall where the joints are? If not, take some pictures so you know where to cut drywall in the future. Enjoying the series!
He has videos so there's no problem.
@@Carl_John Right. haha.
Mini-split Kung fu...
Stud guards... 🏋♂️
Nice job, nice video. Thanks.
What type of insulation is used in the ceiling? I just installed my Senville units this week in my garage. It's also18000 BTU.
Nice job 👍🏾
Where can I buy this? I went to the website in description and it has all info but no actual place to purchase.
Great Video!
You should've checked for leaks in the inside connection also, with the refrigerant running thru it. When you joined them there's nothing running through the lines, so you won't know if you have a leak or not.
The lines are pre-charged.
@@craftedworkshop so when you connect the lines it releases what's in the line without turning the screw. I assume then you need to immediately check for leaks before it all goes out.
How about installing one in an existing home? and do you need a permit for residental homes?
So, I have some issues with all the mini split videos like this. Great install video, but ‐ in Florida, I'm actually not allowed to install a system in a building where anyone is living unless I have a permit, manual J heat load calculation per room, and inspections. I couldn't get away with a system oversized that much. In fact, with a variable speed system, the minimum BTU output of the system has to be specified underneath the heat load calc for the hottest 1% of the year and you have to make the case for the extra BTU output at nominal as an extra load situation with calculations, but the building code really wants nominal BTU to equal the manual J output with no more than 15% oversizing. The other issues are going to be filtration. Mini splits don't do a good job filtering. Also, sometimes you need to go into the engineering manual to get the mini split fans to stop to keep humidity down or add a whole house dehumidifier. Everyone really should have at least a MERV 11 filter in their home, stable relative humidity, and fresh air coming in in some way. Just throwing in a massive oversized system will lead to high humidity, short cycling, and in my state, not meeting code and having to swap out the system. I contacted Mr. Cool and they would not supply me with min and max BTU rating on anything. So, I couldn't consider them since I didn't know if I could properly size the unit.
Interesting! Definitely not the case here in NC, this passed HVAC inspection with no issues whatsoever.
A typical mini split can vary btwn 3 to 14k for a nominal 12k unit. Humidity is never a problem with these.
If FL has those rules they are stupid.
I replaced an old HVAC unit in a park model mobile home in the Palm Springs area, it reduced my electric usage by 30%.
I have 2 bedrooms next to each other, 150 sq ft. each. Can I series two indoor units together on one condenser unit. I realize only one room will have temperature control. Can I do this to lower the price and just have a single outdoor unit rather than a dual zone unit. Thanks.
I love that you're getting so much use out of that giga mondo holesaw
Been using it a ton!
We love our mini split, 3 rooms.
I'd like to know what the precharged lines are precharged with. Do they come with some sort of valve that opens when you tighten them? Do they actually contain refrigerant? or are they just in a vaccuum and capped off somehow? Can't make
sense of this. He also checked for leaks adter tightening just one end of the line, either he didn't know what he was doing or the lines do come pressurized with refrigerant and this filled the indoor unit whem tightening while the other end still was capped somehow. Would love to know more...
Sir,, anu po ma isusuggest nyo na set up - 2nd floor to 4th rooftop bahay namin and mahina na ang water supply sa 2nd flr. Pataas,, oki lng ba sa rooftop ilagay mga pump and storage tank?
If your indoor units are different sizes, does it matter what ports you connect them to? Ive heard you're supposed to connect the largest btu unit to the lowest fittings?
Will these mini splits cool down a restroom or a closet also?
How much is the heating bill? We’re in north Alabama I might install one of these in a 1500 sq ft ranch
Obviously this is out of date, but it looks like the cripple studs up near the rafters by that last evaporator are pressure treated wood (see 6:10 in the video for example). Is that a problem for drywall screws?
No gravity condensate pump?
Oh I see you got it gravity flow
How big in amps is needed in the circuit breaker box is needed for this setup?
I've a question, why MrCool? I'm looking at mini splits for my house and looking at all the brands and I'm always curious as to why a brand is picked over the others. It might be the one thing that convinces me to get that brand. Thanks, nice job.
Nice video, but it appears the maximum distance for the Mr. Cool unit from wall unit to condensor/electric control unit is 24' unless they have custom extensions or something? That seems somewhat limiting. Also how did you test for leaks with nothing flowing through the lines? Also what did you do to insulate the hole going to outside the house (or did you end up not using that hole due to moving the condenser/electric control unit?
You can add another set of line and no problem. It comes with the electric and the gas piping.
Yeah, he hooks up the head w/o a torque wrench, then immediately tests for leaks without pressurizing the lines before closing in the connections behind the drywall. I think the video skipped a step. But regardless, this system would be a nightmare to troubleshoot / repair because connections between line and head units are buried in the walls.
I have panasonic duct less, it's 2.0 ton unit, it has Mirai app by phone we can just connect it to wifi and use it.
Mr cool can try something like that insted of giving usb and all these
SO did you pull vacuum?
Good job. You made it look easy.
Hi great work. I just had an estimate to have one head mini split. I was told I would need some electrical work to connect the power. (completed basement) I was given a price of 5300 does that seem a lot? When I priced the units for one head is around 1400.00. That means the rest is labor. Does that seem like a lot?
It is a lot. One head mini split requires only a simple dedicated 1-phase circuit using 12awg wires.
Yes that’s alot of money
Fantastic work, dude! The house is going to be ready before you realize it! 😃
About the AC, it's better overkill than sweating inside! 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
If you go too overkill, you’ll end up cycling the unit constantly and cause early degradation. Key for him is the units seemed designed to cool where needed,. If he tried to use all 36k btu at once to heat or cool, he’s probably about 2X what he needs. Realistically the 18k unit alone would be plenty.
Very nice!
Amazing install dude! Well done.
Thanks!
No disconnect box??
How much does this run and where dp ypu order
How do you check for leaks when the system is not pressurized?
The lines are pre charged
Is there any reason you didn’t vac the line sets?