Lifting a Small Sailboat (B) -- Catalina 22 - Jim's Little Boat
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2019
- Jim lifts Bootstrap, a Catalina 22, off the trailer using a jack and blocking.
Jim's Little Boat is dedicated to helping beginning sailors and providing a video reference for work on their own boats. There are more than 50 videos in the Jim's Little Boat archives of You Tube. While some of the videos are very specific to Catalina 22 sailboats, most are general and apply to all small mono-hull sailboats.
You may contact Jim directly: jslosson@aol.com (no jokes about the aol)
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Mad respect, Jim. Thank you for your service, also.
I'm totally with you on the working alone part! I thank God for every day that I get to breathe.
Thank you for your service!
Awesome. Safe always first. You can never be too careful. Nice too see projects done without getting hurt.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I agree about working alone. I do keep a spotter standing out of the way just incase. Then they can go get help incase anything goes wrong. This video will help me as I just bought a 1971 Mc Greger Venture 222. . I need to get it off the trailer so I clean and paint the bottom. The hull is in great shape the top side and the interior need some TLC. My son is excited to help me bring it back to looking good again. This will save me slot of money compaired to other options. Thanks again.
Great information about the beam. Best method I've seen anywhere for getting the boat off the trailer on land.
A person can do a lot with a bottle jack and patience. Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks Jim, I too prefer rigging alone. Nice to finally hear someone else point out it's virtues.
Thank you....🇨🇦
I like watching these videos on my break in work. Keep up the good content
good work. I was nervous about the off center load on the cribbing pile. I'll use 2 longer 2x8 douglas fir boards for mine. and bleed tire pressure to lower the trailer. Stay safe sir.
Wow. I opted to put my boat in the barn. Two glass straps and two power winches did it all. Braced and done.
Lucky guy. If I had an overhead beam that would support the weight, that's probably how I would have done it too. :)
Very informative! This looks like exactly what we’d like to do with our C22
Hi Rob: I enjoy watching your videos. You will want to take a look at the beam stabilizer video. Short, video, but I think it is important when the stack gets high and boat changes angles.
Our shed is made of 2.375" pipe with a 1/4 inch plate roof, so strap lifted the C22 & used the trailer to pull the swing keel.
Wow--pretty stout building!
@@jimslittleboat4388 Originally a gas compressor shed - picked it up for scrap price.
Instead of the stern cradle, I am planning to use two boat stands at the stern. Is there a reason I should NOT do that?? Thanks for the great video !
Slow & methodical works well. :)
Nice lifting but that beam too short makes me nervous. Working alone is thinking time..
Based on the map in your intro we are neighbors! Imagine my surprise when I started this video and saw Cooper Point.
Live on Delphi--keep boat at Westbay.
@@jimslittleboat4388 you should invite him over to help you
Jim, I am a complete noob with my 87 C22, but I find myself afraid that all the weight on the front part of the hull on that small area of wood (where it contacts the sawhorse from hell) will cause damage to the hull, crack in the fiber glass, etc. I guess the hull is much stronger I thought since clearly this works for you. I'm really thankful for your videos.
Hi Steve. I have owned boats and built a couple. I think the transom and bow are always the strongest parts of the boat. They put a lot of material in the bow and you have the strength developed by the pointed arch shape. The transom has a lot of solid lumber and a lot of glass, and you can spread the load out over a fairly long area. Boat stands in the middle of the hull can cause all sorts of problems because that is where the hull is thin and it can oilcan.
Do you jack up the aft as well? What is the height you are lifting both ends are? I need to do this in the spring and your video is by far the most helpful
Hi Ryan: If you watch part one of this video, you can more clearly see the support right under the transom. It is basically a big saw horse that fits the bottom. I put the boat in place in the shelter, then lower the tongue as much as the boat jack will allow. Then I slide the transom support in place and start jacking up the front of the boat. The dimensions of the transom support will depend on your trailer. Also! Watch the short video on the beam stabilizer. Thanks for watching. jim
If you need more information, you can email me: jslosson@aol.com
For the saw horses did you use 2x8s or 2x10s?
Do you have plans for the stern cradle? I need to build something so I can replace the bunks on my trailer. Thanks
Great video. I need to do this to remove a trailer but wasn't sure where the boat had to be supported with respect to front and back. You look like you are supporting at the transom and the bow. Are these the recommended positions and do you need to support the weight of the keel section or do you leave it suspended?
Hi Edmund--as you probably saw, I emailed you a longer answer than you probably wanted. :) jim
Please tell me the name of song
Great videos Jim. Why did you build your transom stand that way? I need to build one myself in the next few weeks and I'm modeling mine after yours.. I just am curious why its built kind of like work bench and has the stern sitting only a few inches in on it? Also.. are those 2x12?
Thank you for watching Matthew. Having built a few boats and worked others it always seemed to me the strongest part of the boat is where the bottom meets the transom. Plus by putting the support all the way aft you can get to the rest of the boat easily. In my first version, the transom support was just a flat beam that only made contact with center line of the boat. After the boat was on the beam, I would add wedges to spread out the support. In the second version, I made the beam higher and tried to shape it to fit the bottom. This fall I plan to "spile" a more precise shape of the bottom for even better support. I still use wedges up on the bow, but I am thinking of a way to shape those wedges to better conform to the shape. I can't remember--knowing me they probably are 2 x 12 (I always add a little extra for "stout" as my German ancestors liked to say.) A 2 x 10 would be plenty. But for a couple of bucks, you can overdo it.
@@jimslittleboat4388 Thanks. I guess I'll try to make something more form-fitting too. I'm going to have to drop the keel this winter to recoat everything. I'm currently stripping the boat down to gel coat. It's my first go at this.. Maybe I'll put together some vidoes of my own on it.. We'll see. Keep the vidoes coming.. I love them.
@@matthewsilva8225 Everything you will be working with is poison--some of it very deadly very qucklyl--follow all the precautions. Vacuum the old paint as you sand it with a hose attached to the sander. wear a respirator for the paint and espacially the solvent wipe down--do the wipe down on a a breezy day so you are not laying in an invisible pool of fumes.
Hello good job, my question to you is where did you get the carport or boat port. It looks like a very sturdy. thx
My wife bought it for her 25-foot Rv. She sold that and I bought it from her. The metal roofing runs perpendicular to the sides, thus making it the better and more expensive shelter.
I wanted to ask your advice and don’t worry I won’t sue you if something goes wrong hahah. I have to repair a crack that goes all the way through the hull in my 19 foot sailboat. It is far back almost right under the transom which is where I would have to work so what should. I do about blocking in that area. Any suggestions?
The nice thing about fiber glass: It is infinitely repairable. You should watch some videos made by experts. I am guessing that you will need a big patch made out of heavy roving. Looks won't matter much--just go for stout. Good luck.
Jenga, with boat. For why?