The heat pipes are most likely filled with water (and sometimes with methanol). Definitely not ammonia, as it is used for lower temperatures and, most importantly, it's incompatible with copper, it will eat through the metal (I've tried that, but not with a heat pipe). What you bought is a solution of ammonia in water, which is of no use in a heat pipe (pure ammonia is required). You can put a piece of copper in that ammonia solution, it will turn a beautiful blue colour and the metal will dissolve after a couple of days. Both, pure and dissolved ammonia are corrosive towards copper. If you broke the heat pipe, you wouldn't be able to repair it easily. They contain a very small amount of liquid, and the remaining volume is filled with the liquid's vapour. There is no air inside, and that makes the repair process difficult. Due to the lack of air "ballast", the pressure inside a heat pipe at room temperature is close to vacuum (actually equal to the vapour pressure of the liquid). If you could keep one end of the tube at low enough temperature, you should be able to anneal the another part of the tube safely, provided that you will not damage anything else by the application of heat. However, keeping one end of a such short tube cool may prove difficult, first - due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, and second - due to the heat pipe action, as it will still work, albeit to a much lesser degree than in its intended operating conditions.
@shogoonn I need to repair my fridge in the Winnie that lost the containment, it is ammonia and hydrogen gas. Do you have any resources that can help me find a diy for this? It seems to be a state secret. :)
Does it mean that the liquid in the tubes can be replaced with liquid with higher boiling temperature? And high stability and safety over 200C liquid? Like white spirit solvent or ethylene glycol
@@ИванЮрченко-ф2з Water will do fine at 200°C, the heat pipe will run at a pressure higher than atmospheric. That's not a problem for small diameter tubes. I have some water filled heat pipes from Quick-Cool with working range from 5°C to 250°C. Otherwise, yes, you can have heat pipes with other liquids, including liquid metals. Filling a heat pipe is a complicated operation. It requires a filling station with a vacuum pump, liquid metering equipment, some valves and the ability to close to heat pipe after filling. First you have to pump out everything from the heat pipe, and heat it to a higher temperature to remove any residues adsorbed on the surface, and then you close the vacuum and open the metering vessel, (a small one) which transfers the precise amount of liquid to the tube, and then you close the tube (pinch and weld). There are other methods of filling, but this one is AFAIK the most common one at the factories. You could fill a heat pipe at home, which I've done successfully, by partially filling it with the working liquid, heating it until the liquid boils, and then pinching at the top, when enough liquid was removed (that's the difficult part - knowing how much is left), and then welding. The vapours of the boiling liquid will displace the air from the heat pipe. Instead, if you have a vacuum pump, you can add a slight excess of a liquid to the heat pipe and then vacuum it and seal it.
The very idea that you can make that extruder with so many parts, make it look so easy and make it without any instructions too is absolutely insanely ridiculous dude!
brother, I know I always repeat myself, but i am a proper fan big time !! Sick video again. Your movie making skill always impresses me. Keep being awesome and making stuff.
Just FYI the amount of fluid in a heat pipe is tiny. Very little in there, and its usually under a low atmospheric pressure. It is almost always water as well.
Add an active cooler using a fairly large wattage thermoelectric device with a cold finger to cool the incoming TPU to stiffen it prior to it entering your extruder. It's mandatory to add more RGB LEDs on the TEC hot side fan though 😉
Man, you are doing brilliant. Its realy inspiring to see the progress on turning a cool and realistic idea into a real product. Thanks for your great contents.
Sick as usual! Very cool concept to take a CPU cooler for a HE cooler! I'm surprised it didn't break when you bent it! Eager to see your next progress video!!
My Man, you have a great channel! I watch all these "channels" but this one I get excited for! With you, I see completely original concepts and ideas executed. That extruder assembly literally got me excited. I don't mean like that, lol. I want to build one like right now!!!
Another amazing creation! I love your content, and your filming format is the best I've seen in the 3d printing content world. As always, I can't wait for the next video!!
A few things. Heat pipes require a certain heat load to reach their max efficiency, You can also buy them online so you don’t have to worry about work hardening as much as a pre-bent pipe. Regardless, amazing work like always.
You're right and I want to design my own heat block and use individual heat pipes. The temperature range depends on the fluid that's being used. Methanol, ethanol or water is within the temperature range of this use case and I assumed that it must have been one of these fluids. No idea how efficient they are at which temperature though.
Yeah I think I saw Conrad Elektronik here in Germany (active EU wide) sell individual unbent heat pipes not at all too expensively in any number of sizes, already 20 years ago. I had some thoughts and plans but never got around to make a custom heatsink.
@@mtmtrx I haven't tested it, but from what I've heard this is too much hassle with almost no benefit. I was thinking about doing that, but ditched the plan.
1:58.. annoyed that it didn’t break😂..That’s just One Of Many Folks. The Subtext..The Symbolism…The Dark(and bright) comedy.. The Washing Machine commercial.. The subtle genius of this channel Never Fails to Bring a Smile!… A pretty big one. I pulled out the piped/Copper Heatsink and Fans from my old laptop and thought of doing the the same!.. (6months Later, still in my box)😂 RAD🤙🏻
I really like this extruder and what you are doing. I cant wait to purchase the exteuder kit, receive it, assemble it and mount it on my DIY 3D printer. 😊
Brilliant idea again! Soon it'll become industrial. Adding heatpipes even spares some metall mass on hotend radiator because it cools much stronger on the place needed instead of cooling a 5-7cm radiator pipe. Besides getting the radiator out of the main heating zone gets it cooler and simplifies the setup.
The failure of the flex attempt may be related to the upper filament path. Since the friction of the flex material is very low, it should not get stuck anywhere, so even the positioning of the filament above might be good improvement.
You're a genius man... That thing is a work of art and it works pretty damn well! Brilliant video too, as in quality. Can't wait to see how it turns out. A few well placed LEDs would make that thing shine! 🔆 👍👍
at the end, maybe it doesn't have enough RGBs and that's why it's blocking? Going to follow to see if next video with more RGBs fixes it before I attempt it myself.
2:10 Heatpipes aren't easly refillable, they have like low pressure to lower the boliling point of the fluid inside, so you need to either fill it and seal it in a vacuum or with the tube really with the boiling liquid inside (and in the second case it will not perform good like the vacuum one)
This is true of water heatpipe where the boiling point is brought down to near room temperature by partial vacuum. This is also the fundamentally best fluid to be used in a heatpipe. But also you could conceivably give it some other fluid with an inherently low boiling point instead and seal it right with air. The ammonia solution sure seems usable with 38°C boiling point, if it also sticks to the walls and doesn't damage them.
Yeah no ammonia won't work, it reacts with copper. Methanol is not something you can seal easily, it will just explode on you. Acetone too. The last thing I can think of is diabolical but well. Dichlormethane. It might burn almost every polymer and your flesh to the bone and your gloves but it has a low boiling point and it won't catch fire, you can seal it safely in a heatpipe by soldering it shut. In Europe you can buy pure dichlormethane from Modulor Berlin, but since it's a restricted chemical you have to submit a written signed note detailing why you need it.
Love the videos and good ideas. You should try one with flexible hose for the water cooler and a really bit heat sink and fan mounted to the printer frame. Less weight on the extruder and even better cooling. As long as you don't crimp the hose at least
I know that TPU loves to be printed way slower than you would think... That's all it could be. It doesn't melt as fast as other materials, so that's why the slowness is needed. It's not about the extruder not pushing it hard enough. It's about the hotend turning it into liquid fast enough. If you go hotter, it might burn. But you can do testing in both ways.
I think the skipping was because the tpu is too grippy and it's sticking somewhere above the extruder belts causing it to pull and stretch the filament then skip. It should help to reduce friction above the extruder belts
Simple and effective, I wonder how this concept will develop. I'm really liking the direction you're going with this design. This new iteration of the extruder looks good, happy to see those flanged nuts worked out :)
Aren't the regular heaters ceramic? I like this ring heater because it heats up fast and is very easy to work with. I also think that thermal runaway is best to be solved in software. This sounds counter intuitive, but if you have a heater that can reach 400+ degrees, it'll reach that. But with software you can act faster while reaching the temperatures you need.
Interesting idea. You could also get heat pipes that are by themselves and attach them directly to the heat break. I suspect that might cause more clogs though.
Using acrylic sheet for extruder parts is an interesting concept. Have you tried Siraya Tech's Fast Mecha White resin? It seems to be a good candidate for this kind of purpose. They claim to be more wear resistant than the usual "tough resin" stuff. I think they may have added a bit of PTFE powder to it or something.
Great ideas and exploration as always! If I can offer some constructive feedback, there were some moments in the video where the music was a bit too loud in the mix and made it harder to follow what you were saying.
I had talked with my coworkers about this concept, glad to see it tried out. I'm thinking that if you punctured the heat pipes when tapping the M4 hole, that their effectiveness would be greatly reduced. Would also be cool to have a thermocouple on the heat break to see the exact temp it was reaching and compare it to the stock setup.
Would you consider making this project open source to involve the community in improving this latest design? Although, I get it if you decide to take this design which you have worked on and commercialize it.
I think so yes. I first want to do further testing myself to prevent the suboptimal design from spreading too much. I'm also thinking of commercializing it in the way of selling it as a physical product while keeping it open source.
@@properprinting Awesome! I could totally get down with sending out a version to be optimized and then taking the updates and releasing them as a kit for those who don't want to be involved in the research and development. It is the best of both worlds. Looking forward to it!
There is a red copper in the middle of an athlon 64 cpu heatsink. The size is ideal for a hotend, you only need to drill and tap here and there with a bench drill.
That's one of the most gamer hot end extruder setup ever
Dude, your projects are next level!! 🤘😎🤘
Can't wait to see what's coming.. 👀
Thanks Adrian!
10/10 drilling a hole B roll. You got yourself a new subscriber.
The heat pipes are most likely filled with water (and sometimes with methanol). Definitely not ammonia, as it is used for lower temperatures and, most importantly, it's incompatible with copper, it will eat through the metal (I've tried that, but not with a heat pipe). What you bought is a solution of ammonia in water, which is of no use in a heat pipe (pure ammonia is required). You can put a piece of copper in that ammonia solution, it will turn a beautiful blue colour and the metal will dissolve after a couple of days. Both, pure and dissolved ammonia are corrosive towards copper.
If you broke the heat pipe, you wouldn't be able to repair it easily. They contain a very small amount of liquid, and the remaining volume is filled with the liquid's vapour. There is no air inside, and that makes the repair process difficult. Due to the lack of air "ballast", the pressure inside a heat pipe at room temperature is close to vacuum (actually equal to the vapour pressure of the liquid).
If you could keep one end of the tube at low enough temperature, you should be able to anneal the another part of the tube safely, provided that you will not damage anything else by the application of heat. However, keeping one end of a such short tube cool may prove difficult, first - due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, and second - due to the heat pipe action, as it will still work, albeit to a much lesser degree than in its intended operating conditions.
Thanks for the info! Shame that I never got to that point of finding that out by trial and error.
As if this is the only one you're gonna build lol@@properprinting
@shogoonn I need to repair my fridge in the Winnie that lost the containment, it is ammonia and hydrogen gas. Do you have any resources that can help me find a diy for this?
It seems to be a state secret. :)
Does it mean that the liquid in the tubes can be replaced with liquid with higher boiling temperature? And high stability and safety over 200C liquid? Like white spirit solvent or ethylene glycol
@@ИванЮрченко-ф2з
Water will do fine at 200°C, the heat pipe will run at a pressure higher than atmospheric. That's not a problem for small diameter tubes. I have some water filled heat pipes from Quick-Cool with working range from 5°C to 250°C.
Otherwise, yes, you can have heat pipes with other liquids, including liquid metals.
Filling a heat pipe is a complicated operation. It requires a filling station with a vacuum pump, liquid metering equipment, some valves and the ability to close to heat pipe after filling.
First you have to pump out everything from the heat pipe, and heat it to a higher temperature to remove any residues adsorbed on the surface, and then you close the vacuum and open the metering vessel, (a small one) which transfers the precise amount of liquid to the tube, and then you close the tube (pinch and weld). There are other methods of filling, but this one is AFAIK the most common one at the factories.
You could fill a heat pipe at home, which I've done successfully, by partially filling it with the working liquid, heating it until the liquid boils, and then pinching at the top, when enough liquid was removed (that's the difficult part - knowing how much is left), and then welding. The vapours of the boiling liquid will displace the air from the heat pipe. Instead, if you have a vacuum pump, you can add a slight excess of a liquid to the heat pipe and then vacuum it and seal it.
The very idea that you can make that extruder with so many parts, make it look so easy and make it without any instructions too is absolutely insanely ridiculous dude!
Not only looks the cut parts very good...the clockwork looks equally impressive!
Thanks!
Having an existential crisis when you realize the engineering challenge you set out for yourself was actually easy is a crazy problem to have lol.
I've been there it's the weirdest feeling.
It's like cheating yourself
brother, I know I always repeat myself, but i am a proper fan big time !! Sick video again. Your movie making skill always impresses me. Keep being awesome and making stuff.
Thank you Simon!
Just FYI the amount of fluid in a heat pipe is tiny. Very little in there, and its usually under a low atmospheric pressure. It is almost always water as well.
Good to know! I was hoping to get that on camera that nothing was coming out, but it just worked xD
It's always a good day if a Proper Printing video comes out. Enjoyed it, thanks!
yes this
I wonder if Delrin sheet might work better due to the built in lubricity? Always love the ideas you bring, keep it coming!
I already bought Delrin sheets because of that! I want to combine it with carbon fiber parts for stiffness. I reckon that this will look very techy!
I cannot wait to see how that looks! @@properprinting
@@properprinting mmmmmh carbon fiiiiibreeeeeee
Going to laser cut already cured carbon fiber sheets? That would be siiick. Such a good visual effect and so sturdy.
@@properprintingque pena não ter funcionado no filamento flexível! Projeto maravilhoso parabéns! Aqui falo do Rio de Janeiro!
You deserve a lot more subscribers. Thanks for the work four years ago on improving the ender with belt driven dual lead screw. Very educational.
Very inspiring!
Thank you!
You are one of the most AWESOME creators! I love your innovations and we need MORE of this in 3dprinting. Keep doing what you do!
This is a really awesome video. I'm always excited to see your latest work pop up. Few issues means you might even be getting good at this. ;)
Have to say, that flexible filament is super extreme for any extruder. Great stuff!
Add an active cooler using a fairly large wattage thermoelectric device with a cold finger to cool the incoming TPU to stiffen it prior to it entering your extruder. It's mandatory to add more RGB LEDs on the TEC hot side fan though 😉
I love this kind of engineering development. Great work and keep us up to date with your progress.
That whole assembly looks like it was designed by an extraterrestrial civilization 1000 years ahead of us, or an extremely capable Dutchman.
Congrats! 🎉 I love the extruder. Also your face expression when things actually work the first time... 😂
Dit is echt supervet, blijf alsjeblieft zo doorgaan met zulke geweldige ideeën vezinnen en er goede video’s over maken!
Man, you are doing brilliant. Its realy inspiring to see the progress on turning a cool and realistic idea into a real product. Thanks for your great contents.
I had this idea two years back, I even purchased cooling tubes! ready-to-use cooler..... respect on this!!!!
Man, I love watching each and every video you make. This project was so fun to see!
Sick as usual! Very cool concept to take a CPU cooler for a HE cooler! I'm surprised it didn't break when you bent it! Eager to see your next progress video!!
Frickin' awesome, as always! I love seeing the iterations you are going through and am quite impressed.
Clicked for the craziness, stayed for the insanely good production quality.
My Man, you have a great channel! I watch all these "channels" but this one I get excited for! With you, I see completely original concepts and ideas executed. That extruder assembly literally got me excited. I don't mean like that, lol. I want to build one like right now!!!
I love seeing what new crazy ideas come out of your head. Your videos are always entertaining.
Fantastic stuff, Jon. I really love watching you tinker and develop; you think of stuff no one else does!
The editing on your videos is perfect.
Another amazing creation! I love your content, and your filming format is the best I've seen in the 3d printing content world. As always, I can't wait for the next video!!
GZ on this working Extruder!
Cool idea with CPU Fan!
A few things. Heat pipes require a certain heat load to reach their max efficiency, You can also buy them online so you don’t have to worry about work hardening as much as a pre-bent pipe.
Regardless, amazing work like always.
You're right and I want to design my own heat block and use individual heat pipes. The temperature range depends on the fluid that's being used. Methanol, ethanol or water is within the temperature range of this use case and I assumed that it must have been one of these fluids. No idea how efficient they are at which temperature though.
@@properprinting i love it =D you might try some thermalpaste in the thread its messy but should improve thermal cunduction
Yeah I think I saw Conrad Elektronik here in Germany (active EU wide) sell individual unbent heat pipes not at all too expensively in any number of sizes, already 20 years ago. I had some thoughts and plans but never got around to make a custom heatsink.
@@properprintingCould it work with peltier?
@@mtmtrx I haven't tested it, but from what I've heard this is too much hassle with almost no benefit. I was thinking about doing that, but ditched the plan.
1:58.. annoyed that it didn’t break😂..That’s just One Of Many Folks.
The Subtext..The Symbolism…The Dark(and bright) comedy.. The Washing Machine commercial..
The subtle genius of this channel Never Fails to Bring a Smile!… A pretty big one.
I pulled out the piped/Copper Heatsink and Fans from my old laptop and thought of doing the the same!.. (6months Later, still in my box)😂
RAD🤙🏻
THIS is what I call functional art. Love all of it!
8:07 "This is a weird video." LMAO! Nice when something actually works. I hope you find a new challenge soon. Love the videos.
Insanely awesome stuff - that content is art !
Thanks Albert!
beautiful design, and excellent videos. By the way, drilling and tapping a hole in a badass edit is always fun to watch lol
Very cool! Love the design, great job - looking forward to seeing the final product!
Another great video! I always enjoy watching you try ideas that are different than anything else out there. Keep them coming!!
i love seeing the components scaled back up into something more mechanical looking.
You are a breathe of fresh air. Always really cool seeing your vids
That acrylic extruder looks soooooo good. I need one
I really like this extruder and what you are doing.
I cant wait to purchase the exteuder kit, receive it, assemble it and mount it on my DIY 3D printer. 😊
That is one insanely beautiful extruder/hotend! 😍
Thank you for producing a great video. Open box ideas.
Looks absolutely stunning.
This is a work of art! It looks beautiful
Brilliant idea again! Soon it'll become industrial. Adding heatpipes even spares some metall mass on hotend radiator because it cools much stronger on the place needed instead of cooling a 5-7cm radiator pipe. Besides getting the radiator out of the main heating zone gets it cooler and simplifies the setup.
Amazing projects every time 🎉 I hope to see you do more testing with it. Looks great 👍
Yay cool printer things!!
I have never seen such a beautiful hotend!
The failure of the flex attempt may be related to the upper filament path. Since the friction of the flex material is very low, it should not get stuck anywhere, so even the positioning of the filament above might be good improvement.
Outside the box engineering! I love it🤘
Simple but novel idea. Your videos are always amazing. By far the best 3D printing channel.
That black light was a nice touch.
Nou godverdomme dat is hartstikke gaaf. Gefeliciteerd kerel met deze unieke hotend😍📶💪
That clear extruder is pure fire
Keep thinking outside of the box just the way you do. Great video!
I see that block becoming quite popular 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
You're a genius man... That thing is a work of art and it works pretty damn well! Brilliant video too, as in quality. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
A few well placed LEDs would make that thing shine! 🔆 👍👍
at the end, maybe it doesn't have enough RGBs and that's why it's blocking? Going to follow to see if next video with more RGBs fixes it before I attempt it myself.
You made a great point right there, thanks for bringing this up!
2:10 Heatpipes aren't easly refillable, they have like low pressure to lower the boliling point of the fluid inside, so you need to either fill it and seal it in a vacuum or with the tube really with the boiling liquid inside (and in the second case it will not perform good like the vacuum one)
This is true of water heatpipe where the boiling point is brought down to near room temperature by partial vacuum. This is also the fundamentally best fluid to be used in a heatpipe. But also you could conceivably give it some other fluid with an inherently low boiling point instead and seal it right with air. The ammonia solution sure seems usable with 38°C boiling point, if it also sticks to the walls and doesn't damage them.
Yeah no ammonia won't work, it reacts with copper.
Methanol is not something you can seal easily, it will just explode on you. Acetone too.
The last thing I can think of is diabolical but well. Dichlormethane. It might burn almost every polymer and your flesh to the bone and your gloves but it has a low boiling point and it won't catch fire, you can seal it safely in a heatpipe by soldering it shut.
In Europe you can buy pure dichlormethane from Modulor Berlin, but since it's a restricted chemical you have to submit a written signed note detailing why you need it.
Pymp mah Printer!
Sweet! And it printed 1st try without all the problems! Great job!
Keep em coming!!!!
It did and I definitely didn't expect that, thanks!
I wanted to see the volumetric speed it was capable of 😢
Love the videos and good ideas. You should try one with flexible hose for the water cooler and a really bit heat sink and fan mounted to the printer frame. Less weight on the extruder and even better cooling. As long as you don't crimp the hose at least
without watching the video i know its epic already 😊
what is in it is a miniscule amount of water in a near vacuum to aid in evaporation
I know that TPU loves to be printed way slower than you would think... That's all it could be. It doesn't melt as fast as other materials, so that's why the slowness is needed. It's not about the extruder not pushing it hard enough. It's about the hotend turning it into liquid fast enough. If you go hotter, it might burn. But you can do testing in both ways.
I think the skipping was because the tpu is too grippy and it's sticking somewhere above the extruder belts causing it to pull and stretch the filament then skip. It should help to reduce friction above the extruder belts
It was buckling and I think that this was due to the square hole. Once the filament starts buckling, and with 60A this will happen fast, you're done.
Simple and effective, I wonder how this concept will develop. I'm really liking the direction you're going with this design. This new iteration of the extruder looks good, happy to see those flanged nuts worked out :)
These flanged nuts are a life saver! I'm also using them now in 3D printed parts. Thanks!
Would you consider using a ceramic heater element? They have intrinsic protection for thermal runaway.
Aren't the regular heaters ceramic? I like this ring heater because it heats up fast and is very easy to work with. I also think that thermal runaway is best to be solved in software. This sounds counter intuitive, but if you have a heater that can reach 400+ degrees, it'll reach that. But with software you can act faster while reaching the temperatures you need.
Should try having the filament under some light tension I've found that effective with soft tpu I also prime it first make sure it's got a good shot
Interesting idea. You could also get heat pipes that are by themselves and attach them directly to the heat break. I suspect that might cause more clogs though.
Looks stunning!
Wat een idee om het op deze manier te doen, gaaf ook dat het gewoon werkt , mooi project en leuke video
2:36 why didn't you use the other side of the calipers? The ones meant for finding inside diameters
Because this was easier to show on camera and was just to make the point. Not to do the actual measurement.
@@properprinting that makes sense 👌
Using acrylic sheet for extruder parts is an interesting concept. Have you tried Siraya Tech's Fast Mecha White resin? It seems to be a good candidate for this kind of purpose. They claim to be more wear resistant than the usual "tough resin" stuff. I think they may have added a bit of PTFE powder to it or something.
Love it. But heads up, at 10:04 you can see the extruder wobbeling around, something is loose
Well noticed. It's not loose, but the acrylic plate is too flimsy, the way it's mounted now. This is one of the things that needs improvement!
Ahh, makes sense! Thank you for clarifying! I can't wait to for the next video :D
Keep up the awesome(!) work
you cand use a peltier module has a heat break?
Very revealing. Very honest. Thank you.
Hoi buurman!, looks great! only thing i would look out for is the acrylic getting over 50c as it's going to get flexible and deform.
You are awesome, very nice extruder 😮
That extruder is a brilliant mechanical thing of complex *beauty.
*NOW with extra RGB 🙂 !
Great video , as always.
Great ideas and exploration as always! If I can offer some constructive feedback, there were some moments in the video where the music was a bit too loud in the mix and made it harder to follow what you were saying.
Je creativiteit blijft me verbazen. Lekker bezig!
I had talked with my coworkers about this concept, glad to see it tried out. I'm thinking that if you punctured the heat pipes when tapping the M4 hole, that their effectiveness would be greatly reduced. Would also be cool to have a thermocouple on the heat break to see the exact temp it was reaching and compare it to the stock setup.
3D Printed inner tube when? ;)
wow this is a work of art!!!!!
The extruder is a work of art :)
12:30 Can the filament be cool with a Peltier element to stiffen the filament?
I'm not well versed in 3D printing, can somebody inform me what advantage the shorter filament path would create for future 3D printing projects?
This is work of art 🎇
You never fail to amaze me!
I would love to know if the fan on the heatsink is needed since the heat is moved so far so fast
Would you consider making this project open source to involve the community in improving this latest design? Although, I get it if you decide to take this design which you have worked on and commercialize it.
I think so yes. I first want to do further testing myself to prevent the suboptimal design from spreading too much. I'm also thinking of commercializing it in the way of selling it as a physical product while keeping it open source.
@@properprinting Awesome! I could totally get down with sending out a version to be optimized and then taking the updates and releasing them as a kit for those who don't want to be involved in the research and development. It is the best of both worlds. Looking forward to it!
Wait I love it. Really good and cheap DIY heat sink. Revo hotends go for like $100+ and you made one for less then half that
And it's also not that hard to make one!
There is a red copper in the middle of an athlon 64 cpu heatsink. The size is ideal for a hotend, you only need to drill and tap here and there with a bench drill.