1966 Chevy C10 deadend garage c notch install part1

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
  • Remove the bed and tear down the rear of the truck to get ready for the cnotch install

ความคิดเห็น • 16

  • @tokslut
    @tokslut 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just water works well to on brake fluid. + if you press down brake pedal a round half way you block the fluid from exiting reservoir and out your line ;)

  • @vm722
    @vm722 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    A bit of advice.
    If it's not broken don't need fixing. You want to get rid of u joints and brake lines. You are going to get rid of good hard metal. And replace with Chineseum crap metal. Old brake lines you can tighten up pretty much all you can with the inline wrench. Not possible with Chineseum. You snug those. If you have leaks snug a little more. Try to tighten. And you will Definitely need another.
    Good luck and have fun 👍

  • @jeffhoagland3340
    @jeffhoagland3340 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I feel you, I'm working out of a 20x20. At least your garage seems to be a little deeper to where you can actually use the front wall for tool boxs and stuff.

    • @Chickeneyegarage
      @Chickeneyegarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      It’s actually 22’ deep by 20’ wide which is a bonus since my truck is a long bed

    • @jeffhoagland3340
      @jeffhoagland3340 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Chickeneyegarage I swear I wish I liked mini trucks or motorcycles instead of these big old cars and trucks LOL

  • @macormacfabandkustom9854
    @macormacfabandkustom9854 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Lookin good sir

  • @bonezshakergarage
    @bonezshakergarage 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome truck. I will be keeping up if this build.

  • @ethanrobinson649
    @ethanrobinson649 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You got any plans to change the trailing arm crossmember

    • @Chickeneyegarage
      @Chickeneyegarage  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      No. I have exhaust cut outs for it

    • @ethanrobinson649
      @ethanrobinson649 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Chickeneyegarage nice, was gonna say I did some reading on the adjustable mounts for changing the geometry of the arms. Not sure how much it matters that's why I was curious,

    • @Chickeneyegarage
      @Chickeneyegarage  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You can remove the rivets that old the trailing arm brackets and flip them raising the location. They say it corrects pinion angle of the rearend. I don’t think I’ll be doing that unless I have serious issues

  • @xaviervillaloboz5200
    @xaviervillaloboz5200 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What rear end are you running? Do you take it out on the highway and if so how does that 3 speed handle it?

    • @Chickeneyegarage
      @Chickeneyegarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It’s the factory 12 bolt with 3:73 gears. I take it on the highway all the time with no issues.

    • @vm722
      @vm722 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Chickeneyegarage I don't think that they came with a 373 rear end. I believe that it was replaced. The bar that keeps the rear end from wobbling. Panhard bar i believe. Looks like a adjustable one.
      And they didn't bolt on the top of pumpkin. It was on the right side of the pumpkin 🎃

    • @Chickeneyegarage
      @Chickeneyegarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vm722 actually it is a very common gear ratio for the 60s and early 70s trucks. I’m 100% confident this is the original rear end to this truck and never been rebuilt, but I could be wrong. I added the adjustable panhard bar but it’s in the factory location. I can’t remember the year but I think in 64 they moved the mounting spot from axle tube to the top of the differential.

    • @vm722
      @vm722 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Chickeneyegarage Wow
      Every one that I have seen has the same basketball cover on the back. At least I thought. But it was available at that time.
      There is a date code. On the back of the pumpkin. Lower part by the bolts. No need to remove the cover.. Mine was not clear. Last # is a 3..But they have the same flathead backwards bolts protruding on both sides of the code?
      Just curious.