How I fully automated my 3D printer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2024
- I wanted to automate my 3D printing and set out on the journey to do so with my new ender 3v3 Ke. This is not a 100% how-to video, but more follow along my journey.
Get my Gcode and Mainsail settings here on Gumroad:
arnebornheim.gumroad.com/l/ulrum
(Please note, you have to adjust them to your printer / filament! No guarantee this works out of the box)
I originally made this video in German, so this is the English version, where I basically re-filmed everything.
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#3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, such an amazing video. It's really fun and entertaining to watch these kinds of videos, where people actually get creative and make their ideas reality. I really enjoyed this video, you even encouraged me to try something similiar. You definetely earned a new subscriber today.
Love this! I enjoy watching people experiment and actually explain what has been done (ie, the devil is in the details). This type of sharing helps the community get creative as well. I read through some of the comments and people are actually making suggestions and are working to help you!
I've been looking at this type of setup for organization and I just didn't have the patience to manually remove each piece. This "unsupervised" approach is the solution. Thanks for making your settings available!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment 😊 ! Really appreciate it.
Hope you get this to work for you and get an awesome gridfinity system going 😊
This is amazing gives me alot of ideas for my own printer. I think for me I dont need it to be automatic but I do want to be able to restart the print remotely, while watching it with a camara. This way when away from home for work I can click and restart prints myself!! thanks.
yeah that would definitely be doable. I have smart home plugs on all my printers so I can remotely turn them on or off (you can even make automations for them to turn off after a print is finished based on power draw.) the you can just implement the push off script. Either at the beginning of your new print or as macro in Klipper. 😊
Let me know if you get it to work!
Sehr tolles video. Danke dafür!
Immer gerne und danke für den Kommentar!
Hey! I just watched it all at ~400 views and got some feedback:
- really liked when u explained what did you change and what made things work (like the gcode command to capture 30 degree of the hotbed) rather than: oops not working > I will fix it > oops not working > I will fix it > it works!
- I would love to see some b roll or montage of non stop working 3d printer after all video explaining why is it not working rather than 20s timelapse
- quality production is super nice altough I think sometimes the music is too loud? idk might be just me
You seem like a cool dude, earned a sub! Also, I recently started my journey with 3d printing so I guess YT algorithm is working haha gl mate with your channel
Thanks for the great feedback!
Really happy to have you on the channel 😊 And welcome to the 3D printing journey!
As for your comments:
definitely know what you mean regarding the time-lapse. It was kinda hard to show it in a way that made sense. Especially with the long pauses in between prints...
And with the music: I hear you. It's a comment I've been getting a lot... It's a delicate balance between no audible music and too loud 😃 (I'll keep in mind for next time)
@@Arne.Bornheim I found a useful video to at least help understand the issue. If it turns out that you're using premiere pro, good on you, this is basically an easy fix tutorial then.
th-cam.com/video/GBH0BFvCLAA/w-d-xo.html
I have the ender 3 v3 ke too and the Orca slicer works perfectly for me.
Thanks. Yeah I tried orca slicer later and have been loving it
When I got close to getting my og Ender 3 working flawlessly, the v3 SE comes out lol making the money I spent upgrading the of stock one an over priced learning experience lol. I’m still enjoying it since I wouldn’t say it’s an ended 3 anymore lol.
Great work!
Thanks a lot! 😊
Very smart solution!
Thanks! 😊
Really cool and actually something I might attempt someday. The bed-temperature Gcode-trick is quite clever. I’d be kinda scared of using the nozzle to push of prints though for things to go out of alignment.
Thanks!
yeah, pushing prints off with the print head can definitely lead to problems. However, with the right temperature and printed my prints come off super easily, so it's not a problem...
You can always re home the printer after the push off if you think it's going to skip some steps while pushing. It's G28 I think
I think it always homes before a print?
But I think meeskees was concerned about bending something or similar
depending on the printer there could be a wipe wall that wipes the whole width at once. I have a Bambu x1c. In thory I could design a wall that is near bed level and I would need move the head behind the bed to activate the wall and leave the door open. It is something to do before it is needed. when I get a chance I will design it.
sounds really cool 😊 definitely let me know how it goes!
Very cool :) great video, hopefully one day I'll be able to follow in your footsteps
Thanks so much! It's definitely a doable project if you have some time on your hands and are willing to tinker
Can you make a full video on each step to get the full automation right on your ender 3
Cool video, I'm thinking of automatic my 2 KEs as well, one tip for the bed leveling, you can print out spacers for the sides of the bed that are bent downwards(consult the bed mesh preview on mainsail) and reduce the deviation on your plate a bit more. You can google the how to about it, other people have done it as well. Hope it helps
Thanks interesting. And this is better than automatic bed leveling?
No no, you'll still do the auto bed leveling after you install the spacers so it confirms the new offset on each corner. Also one thing to not is to do auto leveling each time you remove the plate because when you place it back it can move the offset by a tiny bit although it shouldn't be something for you to worry about since you won't be removing the place much thanks to your print head knocking the print off the plate@@Arne.Bornheim
@@BojanSusic-qi4qn ahhh, thanks. Definitely sounds interesting 😊!
You should definitely contact Creality and have them implement this into their printers. I recently thought about this printing option all night, because... I print lampshades in vase mode and can't fit multiple items on one plate.
It's definitely doable. But honestly i think this is too sketchy to be officially implemented. there's a lot of tweaking and a lot of ways it can go wrong.
Definitely a great option but maybe not for everyone because things could get damaged....
Creality has the CR-30.
The printer prints on a belt and once the print is done it will simply turn the belt over.
This pushes the print off and makes room for the next print.
Since the hotend is angled it also allows for infinite length prints (you can print an entire sword in one go)
Yeah I know of that. Really like the idea and concept but I definitely think it’s a very specialized printer
How did you preset that red/blocked area to not print overthere? I am trying to make this area to block printing or calibration area on K1 Max
I wonder how hard it would be to add a wipe wall to the printer? Maybe a wall that is normally just in front of the head. and only slightly above the surface. Would not work with all prints (thinking short like a lithophane. but there is always limits.
Great idea! A concern is what about a shape that moves out of the way of the head? The use that you had as a test is very predictable nice flat side. I would want some visual conformation that the part is gone, before it continues, maybe a remote continue. Maybe it would have a limited range of parts that it would work with. Min height, flat wall. This could be over come with a sacrificial wall built. a worst case is something like the articulated dragon. ( I have no use for them, but the concept shows the problem). short, misc. fragile spikes that might not fall off the bed. with a remote conformation maybe it could activate another sweep off, or next print. But even if it has a limited effectivity, great option!
Definitely a good thought! There will definitely always be limits to this method. Especially with very flat or multiple objects. I like your idea with the wipe wall. Also, you could make the gcode make multiple push offs in different locations, maybe?
Since right now, I only need it for gridfinity stuff, I'm trying to keep it simple. But there are definitely ways to improve it 😊
I will suggest you using orca slicer.
Because creality slicer is kind off reskin for cura if i remember correctly.
Orca also has pretty good profiles for ender 3 v3 se/ke
And a big comunity
Yes 🙌 just started using orca recently and love it
This is amazing content .... keep up the solid work!!! What tool head / shroud is that on your SE?
Thanks so much 😊 it’s the Ender 3v3 ke. And Tool head and shroud are just stock!
What about putting the printer at an angle or perhaps upside down. Would the printed parts fall of by it self or is there going adhesion problem with the first layer?
Yeah definitely an option. I’ve seen both online but haven’t tried it
I’m not sure if G code wise this works the same as CNC machines but if you’re printing the same print just over and over you should be able to just make a simple looping program. So for example with a CNC mill you would replace the M30 with a M99 so it jumps back up to the start of the program and starts over.
Google subroutines and sub programs if this runs g code similar you should be able to have a main program that basically has all the programs you want to run listed in it with Gcode to loop through them and call up each program saved in the memory of the machine one after another without the need of a web interface
Should be all handled with the code
Yeah, as far as I know, you could just loop the same print no problem! For me, I wanted to be able to put different prints into a queue though, which is a lot more flexible 😊
Will this code work for the prusa xl with 5 nozzles. Jk but you should create your own coded printers for resail like modded you may have a big market. Especially Etsy shops would buy them
Thanks. I think if you really want to do this professionally there’s better ways to especially for prusas there are complete addons for an extra cylinder to push off things or thing to swap the entire build plate!
Is rooting the printer just installing Klipper? Or I guess just a more standard version of klipper than the custom ones that so often cause problems?
Yes. The printer is always running a version of Klipper. you’re just installing another interface like mainsail or fluid and can install other stuff like octo everywhere.
As far as I know you’re not even changing the Klipper version. Just adding the interfaces or addons. (But I’m not an expert on these things)
Thanks for uploading this. Really great quality video production. I wonder how you could print like ten pounds worth of filament like this?? Maybe with the pellet extruder or something. You’re really on to something here. Keep up the great R & D
yeah, pellet extruder is definitely interesting. With 2,5 kilo I already got pretty far and there's also the option of 5kg spools. So I think if you go for something like that, it's not a big problem. Getting a pellet extruder to work would likely be more work (and probably stacking another house of cards on another one in terms of reliability 😃 )
Leuke en leerzame video man.
👍🤓
My Dutch is a little bit rusty but bedankt 😊
@@Arne.Bornheim But in the background still the sound of a dutchie 🤣😂
would the code work on bambu lab printers?
I don’t have one so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally it should work.
Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu though.
Octoprint with the continuous print plugin is a good way to avoid having to root your printer.
Definitely. Just depends on preferences. With build in Klipper you don’t have to buy extra hardware which is nice.
4:12 what was that
You don't need to root the printer to do this. You really just need to combine the print files with custom g code between them to clear the bed. It would be easy to do that with a python script.
Yeah that’s also possible but feels less flexible for me than this since you can add new prints at any point
@@Arne.Bornheim maybe so but making a program that does stichs print files together while clearing the prints between files would be something your average person would be excited about. Also it would work on any printer without modification or voiding warranties.
ya this has been possible for a long time with PEI sheets, and specifically with PEI bed sheets. As with PEI the print will stick like glue when its hot, but will self release when its cold, allowing you to do this. This works with ANY printer type as long as it has a PEI sheet, so this will work with a Core X/Y printer as well, provided the door allows the print to clear between the bed and the opening. So for a Voron 2.4, you just leave the doors open and it can push the print off the bed. Hell there are print heads that have been modded to have a bulldozer on the front for this very thing.
Thanks for the info on the PEI beds. I knew that one of my sheets worked better than other ones but didn’t know the material.
And yeah that’s the cool thing that with a little tinkering you can make this work with most / all printers 😊
I have a hard time removeing the print how can I fix this?
This could have many causes.
For me, the right print bed definitely made a big difference. I used the one from my ankermake, but someone in the comments said what type works best in general (I think PEI, but please check in the comments).
Other than that, you could also play with bed levelling and Z offset.
Under normal conditions you can also use a glue stick on the print bed, but since this is something you have to do before every part it doesn't really make sense with this approach because it's not automated...
Nice vidéo ! I just find the music to be a bit loud sometimes, especially at 5:17
Thanks so much for the feedback! Yeah I‘mull keep the music lower in the next video which should be out tomorrow 😊
is this method works on ender 3 v3se
The gcode will definitely work! not sure if the Se runs on Klipper and can be rooted? But if yes that should also work
Real shame someone was speaking all over your awesome jazzy funky instrumental track. Really great stuff.
Bit of an avant-garde video though, not sure what 3dprinting has to do with anything.
Haha sorry I know the music was too loud. I’ve tried to fix it in my newer videos ( you should check them out)
Super cool! Now get more printers and setup a Gridfinity farm! :)
Haha we'll see. Maybe I'll get there one day 😊
It works on an ankermaker m5 printer?
On the AnkerMake it’s difficult. You should be able to get the printer to push off the finished prints with gcode. However since the AnkerMake does not run Klipper or something like octoprint I don’t know how to do a print queue.
You can manually make gcode that contains multiple prints or maybe get a gcode to loop and print the same thing multiple times.
But as far as I know you can’t replicate the full process on the AnkerMake sadly. (If anybody knows how to implement the print queue please correct me 😊 )
Great vid. Advice from a non expert in production, but expert in content. consumption😅. You could change the whole extra filament thing to “i picked up a larger spool of filament on Amazon to be able to print longer without running out”. Hard to leave troubleshooting and work out of the vid, but giving us just the highlights is essential to retention. Great work overall!
Thanks so much for the feedback 😊 yeah it’s a delicate balance with the troubleshooting. Too much detail and it gets boring but it’s also kinda story of the video!
Do you know guys if it would work with bambu lab printers ?
hey! @thenhowboy also asked this, so I'm just gonna copy paste my answer 😊
I don’t have one, so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally, it should work.
Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu, though.
I don't see why the concept would not work. with my X1c I would need to leave the door open. probably make sure the print being pushed off does not hit the side. I have a theory of designing a wipe wall that is activated by moving the head to the right above the poop shoot area behind the bed. other part is setting up a print que. that you could auto start. or I would probably want to remotely start the next print. at least for a while. till I felt I know the variables that cause it to fail.
one of the problems is making sure your have a 3d printed bed that can at any size or how much the print has taken be capable of pulling it all off easily without problems
yeah that's definitely a concern. I found on my printbed that with enough cooldown time all parts eventually come off fully. Then it was just a matter of best achieving that timing through gcode 😊
Nice to see you overcome the challenges. The value of the video would increase if you shared some of the learned lessons, solutions found, problems to avoid, etc.
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I try to keep a balance between keeping it entertaining and sharing details. I definitely know this isn't a how-to video but a little summary at the end could be a good way to strike that balance
thanks for blowing out everyone's ear drums for no reason @4:12
Haha😂
😂 sorry. That was an editing error.
Thanks for the heads up. I still got caught out 🤣
Would definitely suggest some kind of print fail detection, other than that looks like a cool build
Yeah good idea. What did you have in mind? I always just checked with my camera every now and then. But something like octo everywhere (which I already have running) has support for print fail detection right?
@@Arne.Bornheimthere are plugins for octoprint where You have fail detection built in. Also it will be nice to have some smoke detector. Long prints cause high risk, so be carefull with it.
@@Arne.BornheimI think creality have official camera that you can connect to the box, then the box will connect the printer into cloud, where they have AI print failure detection(based on camera) . I am still waiting for my camera arrive to test these feature
@Jesse-zs7yc I have the camera now 😊 but not sure about the ai failure detection? Would that be in the app?
Geiles Video, aber pass beim editing auf , öfters war die musik zu früh eingespielt oder viel zu laut trotzdem super video
Danke fürs Feedback! Hab bei den neueren Videos drauf geachtet. Schau gerne mal rein 😉
Also one more thing. A bed cleaner
4:11 AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
😂 just making sure everyone's still paying attention
I was wondering if anyone has made this for bambu handy.
What do you mean exactly? I thought bambu handy can't even slice files? (Don't have a bambu (yet) so I don't know much about it)
Also most of the process is done on the printer and not in slicer
That white filament has got to be the single worst filament i have ever seen lmao
Including 7 Euro/kg PLA from China back in 2016
fun project tho 👍
you might want to checkout the open source solutions that check with cameras if the print failed + filament runout sensor
Haha yeah it was pretty bad! But eventually i made it work… I guess for 12€/kg on amazon what was i expecting….
Thanks! Yeah there‘s definitely better solutions but I wanted something anyone can do with very little investment 😊
what you really need is a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle
Good 👍 idea. I actually have 0,8 mm nozzles for my Anker make laying around but never got around to using them… does it make a big difference in speed?
Ofcourse, bigger nozel = bigger layer . But it would look a bit uneven as the nozzle is bigger @@Arne.Bornheim
aww man if only you could print more than one thing at a time. you could print as many as you can fit on the build plate or time the printer to be done just before you wake up.
that would be great. someone needs to invent a duplicate button so people can do that.
oh wait that already exists!
of course you cant ram every print and keep going... some are too big and stick too much.
I understand where you're coming from. Even with this method, it's possible to put multiple things on at the same time. You just need to put them close together and have a large brim so they are connected. It was just another complexity that i tried to avoid.
And if you have the right print bed and cooldown setting the print will honestly come off the bed by themselves. no matter their size...
Bros power supply 💀
Ganz ehrlich einem Creality Drucker vertraue ich nicht damit einfach abzubrennen, wenn ich nicht in der Nähe bin. Warum druckst du nicht einfach mehrere Kiste gleichzeitig?
Ich habe mit vielen Sachen auf einem Bett angefangen, aber dann steht es trotzdem viel still.
Thema Brandgefahr muss natürlich jeder selbst wissen... Ich habe einen Smarten Rauchmelder, der bei Alarm auch sofort den Strom vom Drucker kappt. Aber na klar. Dabei sein ist am sichersten..
Anet hatte Brandprobleme, Creality hab ich noch nicht gehört. Woher kommt die Info?
@@Arne.Bornheim Das fände ich eigentlich ein interessantes Video mit dem automatisch abschalten.
@@ir0nsight280 Als ich mir die Verkabelung vom Ender 3 meines Kumpels angesehen habe ist mir das Vertrauen verloren gegangen. Verzinnte kabel und schlechte Bewegung der Kabel machen mir schon etwas Angst was mehrere Tage alleine arbeitet. Besonders wenn die Maschine schon 100h gelaufen ist.
This breaks the printer 😭
Why?
Sorry you lost me at recommending an Ender 3 to beginners in 2024
Thanks for the feedback! What do you think I should be recommending?
@@Arne.Bornheim Honestly it's obviously a hard problem... At this stage, I'm probably still saying a P1P though. Sure, it's significantly more expensive, but over time the biggest cost of any 3D printer that actually gets used will be filament.
My first machine was a Creality CR-6, and I have honestly not added all the money I spent on upgrades to get it to perform as advertised because I am too scared... Easily more than my X1C :/
@@givemeanaccountdamit a P1P is a great machine I personally upgraded from an Ender 3 to a P1S and I enjoy it. Nevertheless I would recommend every beginner to start with an Ender because it helps you understand the machine. If you just have a machine that works out of the box with no manual work you will never get an understanding
@@Jonasmonasonas obviously everyone is entitled to their own opinion on this issue, but I couldn’t disagree more. Again my first machine was a Creality machine that over promised and under delivered. I bought it as a tool, not a hobby, but ultimately spent 4 years modifying it and learning an incredible amount of settings and tweaks in Cura to tune and get the best I could out of it. In the end it was direct drive with an all metal hot end, and even some parts of the motion system were aftermarket. I found it frustrating and expensive because I spent at least as much time getting the printer to run as I wanted as actually printing things I bought it to make. Eventually I bought an X1C and found 2 major things: the frustration of printing is now gone as it just works, and all of the settings, tweaks and general hardware knowledge I acquired are pretty close to irrelevant. I have never heard an opinion that people should learn on a carrier Pidgeon before being allowed a mobile phone so that they can learn how the system really works. Sure, if you are into Pidgeons and love the process I’m sure you can get a lot of joy out of that hobby and the satisfaction of understanding the minutia of requirements around that system. I just feel it in no way is a right of passage and in fact, would think most people would give up part way through that experience and therefore never see how powerful a mobile phone is as a tool.
No hate in the above, just trying to explain how I’ve come to my conclusion
@@Jonasmonasonasi can agree, i have heard a p1p is a great printer, but you gotta understand the machine so you can do upgrades or repairs