Leave a comment down below if this was helpful! Buy a lift pump here / www.alligatorperformance.com/... Buy seafoam here / www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-sf-16...
Im going to be purchasing a Fass system for my LML Duramax. Your video leads me to believe if you have the smallest amount of mechanical ability this should be an easy install. I did go to your channel looking for a followup vid ...nothing...You mentioned your truck falls on its face at higher RPM and I am wondering if the Fass has helped???. I have installed a tuner and am having "fall on it's face" problems as soon as I stomp on it . I am wondering if this will help with that ....I am coming from class 8 diesel owner operator world and know the benefits of a fass system in regards to a 12.7 liter Detroit engine and I know a Fass will help my Duramax in that regard but......I want to stomp on the foot feed and have my truck come alive not fall on its face like it's been doing....Is it worth the $600 or so I will spend???
very good video, no BS & extreamily helpful. all in 1/2 the time of all the others. plus you didnt make me feel bad for not knowing the cleshe' common knowledge of diesel truck owners. shout out to your camera man for keeping up with a steady hand. lastly thankyou for explaining the what, and why's of everything you were touching....truck sounds good. Hell yeah, over nd out
Great video! Fass needs to be Notified on this WRONG install of the Add-a-Fuse is! Its not your fault, my install directions showed the same! The factory Fuse (10amp) goes on the bottom, not the top as Fass directions tells you, that way your factory Fuss retains its correct protection of the Circuit! Also needs to be explained that when installing the Add-a-Fuss in your Fuse Box that it needs to be installed with the power coming into the Prong farthest from the Pig Tail, that way if the (3amp) Fass Fuse was to blow the factory Fuss would still be working!
I don’t think they showed it in its final resting place. The mounting bracket allows it to move up and down for easier filter changes. When it is slid up , it shouldn’t be so visible and tucked behind frame rail.
My truck came with this already done... one less thing to worry about. FYI- Don’t use the add-a-link. Tie into proper circuit directly with a poke and wrap, heat shrink and taped.
Delete the stock one, it is now useless and just costs more $ to replace. The Fass filters down to 3 micron, and the stock only filters down to 10 anyways....making it useless downstream of the Fass system.
Sorry Im replying so late this is my dads channel and hes not to much of a internet kinda guy but yes the fuel pump is helping it idles much smoother and the truck was deleted before he bought it.
Deleting your truck is a bad idea...! I'm tired of seeing this myth float around on TH-cam and the internet. Yes we all know that deleting your truck (at least the egr valve part) will prevent that nasty dirty exhaust from returning I to your engine. What people dont know is that nasty dirty exhaust is actually helping your engine run at lower speeds and idle. This very video is exactly what happens when a truck has been deleted. When your truck is at idle it is starving for air and fuel, and your vacuum lines and fuel system are stressing to deliver the engine what it needs. This creates rough idle and lost fuel economy, and also leads to dirty injectors because your engine isn't yet hot enough or running hard enough to fully combust the fuel in it. The egr valve corrects this problem by forcing air back into the intake, not only making your fuel system and vac lines work less, but by reburning some of that unburnt fuel. Also egr valves are not wide open all the time. The valve opens more at idle and lower speeds for reasons I mentioned above and opens less and less as speeds increase. At cruising speeds in a healthy engine your egr valve is most likely not open at all because your engine is at a higher speed and getting plenty of air and fuel. It's also running hotter and faster and most likely burning that fuel much more thoroughly, so recycling it back into the motor would be a waste. Again this video is a perfect example of what happens to a motor once the egr is deleted. It's bad to delete your truck! Do egr valves have issues? Of course they do, so does every other part on your vehicle... Dirty egr valves and parts can cause problems but deleting them causes more problems, and actually robs you of fuel economy! Any good Diesel mechanic knows this and the research is out there... Stop believing all these idiots on TH-cam, and bad mechanics, and parts companies trying to sell you stuff... Semi trucks are all over the road with 100's of Thousands of miles, even millions, with intact egr valves and systems running properly. Clean your egr system with proper maintenance like anything else, and go have your truck professionally tuned! You'll notice a world of difference! Still dont believe me? Do the research yourself! Just remember too egr valves are not just on diesel motors, and they were on motors long before emissions standards... so despite what everyone may think or tell you, there not for emissions purposes or to keep diesel exhaust cleaner, there to keep your motor running properly! They became an emissions thing later as they just happen to "help" serve this purpose as well, and companies may very well be "adjusting" how much your egr valve actually recycles to help meet emissions standards but again this is why I say GO HAVE YOUR TRUCK TUNED, and you can adjust how much your egr works as well for proper fuel economy and performance! But stop deleting your trucks! Your running them despite what all the uneducated non mechanics and TH-camrs say. And no I'm not some EPA guy trying to trick you, I'm a Coal Rollin 07 LBZ Duramax driving Diesel Truck loving fool with 300,000 on the odometer and ZERO issues, because I know how to take care of my truck properly!
@@joshhobbs7878 LOL, yep ok...that's why there's Diesel techs all over that say take that $*i# off there and instantly one gets better mileage and more power. Yep there's millions of OTR drivers that have their trucks in the shop all the time for that BS stuff every few thousand miles. There's Hotshot drivers that have newer trucks that are having constant breakdowns and months of waiting for unavailable parts...But we're supposed to believe some guy named Josh on YT LOL
Currently installing a FASS on my 03 Cummins. The instructions are a joke, and seem backwards, with terrible, low quality pictures of how things "should" look during the steps of the procedure. I have done what I've completed so far of the install from common sense. I hope the product is as good as everyone claims, because if its quality is based off of these ridiculous instructions, then I think I may have wasted a lot of money.
@@rnolloth88 I haven't had any problems with my 2015.5. What are the symptoms I should be aware of? Also, my instructions say the tank needs to be dropped for the Fass Lift Pump install...any thoughts on why? Nobody is doing that in any of the LML videos I've seen. Only if one installs a sump.
@@mikez377 From my research most of the sump kits do not require lowering the tank, in particular the 1-hole designs such as BEAN and many others. I just installed the BEAN on my 2008 and it took longer than I thought but so far so good (day 1: I'm not done yet). I removed the skid plate and determined where I wanted to mount it (behind the OEM drawstraw "basket" but a larger 8inch hole in the skid plate, then reinstalled it and angled the output slightly to provide plenty of clearance from the ribbed skidplate. If I was doing it again I would install the hose first because that push on is really hard to get on very far, although once on at all it does not want to come off. Using a sump also allows you to use the same parts provided to connect to the drawstraw from the tank, but just use this for the return instead of cutting the fill tube.
@@victorrader4349 Correct. Sump kits do not require the tank to be removed. The '15 & '16 LMLs require the tank to be removed for a Fass Lift pump (new/provided draw straw is used). I called to confirm. Since a new whole is required either way, I bought a Beans Sump and had a local shop do it. The tank could stay that way 👍. Seems to work great so far. They even put the tank cover back for added protection. I would definitely recommend the shop if you're in the Colorado Springs area.
DirtyMax don't have fuel pumps in the tank. They use suction and have a fuel filter under the hood that need to be pumped up and primed to start and run.
Ill do a follow up video on the truck soon be sure to subscribe for it!
Im going to be purchasing a Fass system for my LML Duramax. Your video leads me to believe if you have the smallest amount of mechanical ability this should be an easy install. I did go to your channel looking for a followup vid ...nothing...You mentioned your truck falls on its face at higher RPM and I am wondering if the Fass has helped???. I have installed a tuner and am having "fall on it's face" problems as soon as I stomp on it . I am wondering if this will help with that ....I am coming from class 8 diesel owner operator world and know the benefits of a fass system in regards to a 12.7 liter Detroit engine and I know a Fass will help my Duramax in that regard but......I want to stomp on the foot feed and have my truck come alive not fall on its face like it's been doing....Is it worth the $600 or so I will spend???
Waiting for my pump to come in today then going to use you're video for reference. Thanks for posting
How long did it take you too install
I just installed this today. Your video was helpful thanks.
very good video, no BS & extreamily helpful. all in 1/2 the time of all the others. plus you didnt make me feel bad for not knowing the cleshe' common knowledge of diesel truck owners. shout out to your camera man for keeping up with a steady hand. lastly thankyou for explaining the what, and why's of everything you were touching....truck sounds good. Hell yeah, over nd out
Great video and very helpful!
Pump will hopefully be here by the end of the week! I’ll be back, good video!
Thank you this video helped me a lot . I’m installing the pump on my 2011
Helpful!
Nice video!
Great video! Fass needs to be Notified on this WRONG install of the Add-a-Fuse is! Its not your fault, my install directions showed the same! The factory Fuse (10amp) goes on the bottom, not the top as Fass directions tells you, that way your factory Fuss retains its correct protection of the Circuit! Also needs to be explained that when installing the Add-a-Fuss in your Fuse Box that it needs to be installed with the power coming into the Prong farthest from the Pig Tail, that way if the (3amp) Fass Fuse was to blow the factory Fuss would still be working!
Hahahaha. Great video. "Seems to have a little more pick up"
* rolls coal
Nice install video!
Brennen McGuire thank you! Did it help at all?
Professor D.I.C yes it did, I already knew how to install them bc I’m running a fass on my truck! I think it’s a great install video.
Thanks!
good job
Wondering why you wouldn't use Fuse #18 - The Fuel Pump fuse for the new fuel pump?
What is that pump for and why did you put it and how much does it cost?
What offset rims and tires are you running ?
Did you dad install a cp3 pump conversion before this?
How often do they need to be replaced?
Follow up video?
Follow up?
no follow up :(
Interesting that you torqued the brass fittings to 40ft lbs. My manual told me to torque those to 18ft lbs
I think he must have mispoke, 40 is huge on a little fitting like that. I thought 18 felt like a lot.
@@victorrader4349 He just luck out.
Surely there has to be a better place to mount this where it won't get ripped off easily?
I don’t think they showed it in its final resting place. The mounting bracket allows it to move up and down for easier filter changes. When it is slid up , it shouldn’t be so visible and tucked behind frame rail.
My truck came with this already done... one less thing to worry about.
FYI- Don’t use the add-a-link. Tie into proper circuit directly with a poke and wrap, heat shrink and taped.
Do you know how long they need to be replaced? Also had mine already before I bought my truck
So does the stock fuel filter still work in conjunction with this?
speed kills yes
Delete the stock one, it is now useless and just costs more $ to replace. The Fass filters down to 3 micron, and the stock only filters down to 10 anyways....making it useless downstream of the Fass system.
Nice install is it helping yet? Did you delete your truck as well ? Thanks
Sorry Im replying so late this is my dads channel and hes not to much of a internet kinda guy but yes the fuel pump is helping it idles much smoother and the truck was deleted before he bought it.
Deleting your truck is a bad idea...! I'm tired of seeing this myth float around on TH-cam and the internet. Yes we all know that deleting your truck (at least the egr valve part) will prevent that nasty dirty exhaust from returning I to your engine. What people dont know is that nasty dirty exhaust is actually helping your engine run at lower speeds and idle. This very video is exactly what happens when a truck has been deleted. When your truck is at idle it is starving for air and fuel, and your vacuum lines and fuel system are stressing to deliver the engine what it needs. This creates rough idle and lost fuel economy, and also leads to dirty injectors because your engine isn't yet hot enough or running hard enough to fully combust the fuel in it. The egr valve corrects this problem by forcing air back into the intake, not only making your fuel system and vac lines work less, but by reburning some of that unburnt fuel. Also egr valves are not wide open all the time. The valve opens more at idle and lower speeds for reasons I mentioned above and opens less and less as speeds increase. At cruising speeds in a healthy engine your egr valve is most likely not open at all because your engine is at a higher speed and getting plenty of air and fuel. It's also running hotter and faster and most likely burning that fuel much more thoroughly, so recycling it back into the motor would be a waste.
Again this video is a perfect example of what happens to a motor once the egr is deleted. It's bad to delete your truck! Do egr valves have issues? Of course they do, so does every other part on your vehicle... Dirty egr valves and parts can cause problems but deleting them causes more problems, and actually robs you of fuel economy! Any good Diesel mechanic knows this and the research is out there... Stop believing all these idiots on TH-cam, and bad mechanics, and parts companies trying to sell you stuff... Semi trucks are all over the road with 100's of Thousands of miles, even millions, with intact egr valves and systems running properly. Clean your egr system with proper maintenance like anything else, and go have your truck professionally tuned! You'll notice a world of difference!
Still dont believe me? Do the research yourself! Just remember too egr valves are not just on diesel motors, and they were on motors long before emissions standards... so despite what everyone may think or tell you, there not for emissions purposes or to keep diesel exhaust cleaner, there to keep your motor running properly! They became an emissions thing later as they just happen to "help" serve this purpose as well, and companies may very well be "adjusting" how much your egr valve actually recycles to help meet emissions standards but again this is why I say GO HAVE YOUR TRUCK TUNED, and you can adjust how much your egr works as well for proper fuel economy and performance!
But stop deleting your trucks! Your running them despite what all the uneducated non mechanics and TH-camrs say. And no I'm not some EPA guy trying to trick you, I'm a Coal Rollin 07 LBZ Duramax driving Diesel Truck loving fool with 300,000 on the odometer and ZERO issues, because I know how to take care of my truck properly!
@moveovermike delete it... don’t listen to josh...
@@joshhobbs7878 LOL, yep ok...that's why there's Diesel techs all over that say take that $*i# off there and instantly one gets better mileage and more power. Yep there's millions of OTR drivers that have their trucks in the shop all the time for that BS stuff every few thousand miles. There's Hotshot drivers that have newer trucks that are having constant breakdowns and months of waiting for unavailable parts...But we're supposed to believe some guy named Josh on YT LOL
@@professord.i.c4214 Is there a factory lift pump on the frame?
Currently installing a FASS on my 03 Cummins. The instructions are a joke, and seem backwards, with terrible, low quality pictures of how things "should" look during the steps of the procedure. I have done what I've completed so far of the install from common sense. I hope the product is as good as everyone claims, because if its quality is based off of these ridiculous instructions, then I think I may have wasted a lot of money.
This was an lml, correct?
Yes
so what happens to the factory pump? you just leave it in there?
NissanPacific it didn’t have a factory supply pump, it only has an injector pump that pull fuel from the tank.
Blue Demon That was a huge design flaw! 🙆🏻♂️
Why didn’t you have to drop the track
Have you had any draw straw issues or 1/4 tank issues? I'm looking to do this on my 16 lml and kinda worried with the problems others have mentioned.
I had issues with mine on my 15.5 Do it right the first time and put a sump in as well. You'll regret it if you don't!
@@rnolloth88 agree about the sump. Makes all the difference.
@@rnolloth88 I haven't had any problems with my 2015.5. What are the symptoms I should be aware of? Also, my instructions say the tank needs to be dropped for the Fass Lift Pump install...any thoughts on why? Nobody is doing that in any of the LML videos I've seen. Only if one installs a sump.
@@mikez377 From my research most of the sump kits do not require lowering the tank, in particular the 1-hole designs such as BEAN and many others. I just installed the BEAN on my 2008 and it took longer than I thought but so far so good (day 1: I'm not done yet). I removed the skid plate and determined where I wanted to mount it (behind the OEM drawstraw "basket" but a larger 8inch hole in the skid plate, then reinstalled it and angled the output slightly to provide plenty of clearance from the ribbed skidplate. If I was doing it again I would install the hose first because that push on is really hard to get on very far, although once on at all it does not want to come off. Using a sump also allows you to use the same parts provided to connect to the drawstraw from the tank, but just use this for the return instead of cutting the fill tube.
@@victorrader4349 Correct. Sump kits do not require the tank to be removed. The '15 & '16 LMLs require the tank to be removed for a Fass Lift pump (new/provided draw straw is used). I called to confirm. Since a new whole is required either way, I bought a Beans Sump and had a local shop do it. The tank could stay that way 👍. Seems to work great so far. They even put the tank cover back for added protection. I would definitely recommend the shop if you're in the Colorado Springs area.
Its seem to have better pick.up lolol just roll yea she work case closed lolol
Is the stock pump still in the tank?
DirtyMax don't have fuel pumps in the tank. They use suction and have a fuel filter under the hood that need to be pumped up and primed to start and run.
One day I want my filters hanging down ready to get knocked off by the nearest rock
Next thing you should fix is your nails!