I'm a long-time SMA subscriber. Bought an Astro LED light for home garage use a few years ago after seeing it on SMA - I love it. Of course, now it's become the "family flashlight" so I'll probably need to buy a second.😁
I've used this technique a few times. My recent Snap On flyer had some overcomplicated contraption, one for Ford and one for Subaru. They were like 800 bucks each. I see these having a limited life span in a pro shop, but the simplicity and cost are superior.
Thank you @South Main Auto Repair LLC & ASTRO TOOLS! This tool kit works great! Just replaced both rear hubs on my 2013 Fusion. Knuckles are aluminum and the Hubs are steel. We know how that goes!! This simple, yet effect tool & method works like a champ. No more beating them out with a sledge hammer for me! I worked as a Ford tech. from 2006 - 2013 and I sure could have used these back then. Did dozens of Hubs to earn my living & had to Air Hammer & Swing on them just to get them to budge a little. This kit is so graceful. Lord Jesus, I am so thankful.
I tried renting it with a manual puller a hydraulic puller nothing worked I heated it with a torch...wooww great tool I bought it for $40 canadian Yoolon 78834 Hub dismantling tool and in 5 min it was was removed it's wonderful thank you for the advice and I love your simple and easy video thank you
I wanted to say that hitting it with an hammer after it cracked loose would be enough.. but you are to honest haha nicely played sir!! Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱 Love your vids 50 % off the time all the time 🥳
I have one of these Astro Pneumatic Nano's it's a fantastic tool. I was able to do a thousand-plus dollar timing chain service on my car with it and I don't think I could have done it without it...the tensioner was really stuck and on the firewall side of the block.
Speaking of Astro, you guys need to make more bits for the Big Nasty air hammer. It was very hard to find a long (~18") bit of the right shank diameter, and even then the one I eventually got had to be ground down to fit correctly.
@@andrewgonyou9903 So did I, strangely, as a special online order from Walmart! It didn't quite fit, but I ground down the shoulder near the flared neck and it works OK. That one is a spade chisel, I'm still looking for a long version of a narrow hammerhead.
Very nice. I could have really used this tool last year when I was removing the hub bearing to replace the rear wheel cylinder on my 92 Cavalier. It was the original hub and it did not want to come off. I finally got it off but spent a long time doing so and with a lot of swear words added in. I will definitely pick this up when it comes out.
You could try just a regular bolt and a nut and if you're feeling fancy some sort of padding so that the bolt wont leave a dent. I've used this method with just regular bolts and nuts and it works great! Instead of a boring chore bearing replacement is now way more enjoyable.
It's good to know you can still swear if you want to. I bought a T20AH a couple months ago and I have been enjoying it. I mainly bought it because of Eric's faith in your brand. Keeping that man happy is the best marketing you could ask for.
I’ve spent many with many different techniques to get off a corroded hub and this looks amazing. I spent 1.5 days trying to get a ford aluminum knuckle off.
I tried this with galvanized bolts and nut from my local hardware store. Stripped on me (cheap stuff). Ram 1500 has a terrible knuckle to attempt to do this. Hard to find a flat surface. Anyways used an air chisel and dug into the knuckle a bit, enough room for a regular chisel and a maul. Not ideal and I would have been pissed if I paid a shop to do that. But the damage was done by yours truly, everything mated up just fine with the new hubs went with SKF both side. It was a learning experience, I was maxing out at pads and rotors previously, which I've become quite good at over time. Live in the east coast of Canada lots of rustys and crustys up here commuting. Ever use a hydraulic ram between the knuckle and hub?
Great, Made some jack bolts for removing bearing and sprockets on industrial equipment. I just used a smaller nut, like a flange nut to press against. nice someone's brain's earned some money.
When I order the Wheel Bearing I also order the backing plate but you need to do the job today. Some GM bearings have a slot so I use a 3/4" bolt by hand and it only takes a turn to bust it loose. I'm outside Utica so I know your pain :-)
He is the best mechanic in the world. I actually have purchased one of your products solely because he used it. It's the Astro 52SL flashlight. Paying $50 for a flashlight is insane but it's been worth every penny. It was a life saver when the power went out too.
I really want to see how well these work on a Subaru rear wheel bearing, like the ones found on an '06 Outback. Those bearing assemblies get horribly stuck, I had to buy extra hearing protection because of how much time I spend using my air hammer on them.
(I live in Maine, btw. I thought my 2017 would be easy to separate, but salt belt rust proved me wrong.) I tried this method and every other one I could find on the interweb when replacing both rear bearings on my 2017 Impreza. Nothing worked. The hardened grade bolts I used like this video BENT. I even borrowed a "Hub Buster" from a neighbor. Nope. After spending a whole weekend researching and trying methods that failed, I gave up Sunday afternoon and started to remove the knuckle to take in to my mechanic to press it out. Removing the knuckle took about fifteen minutes. When I had it all loose except for the parking brake cable, I had a thought. I placed the knuckle with the bearing facing down on two jack stands supporting the backing plate. I threaded the long pressing bolts (I had bought extra) through the knuckle and into the bearing from the back side. Then I hit these bolts with my four pound hammer to drive the bearing downward and out of the knuckle. The bearing popped loose on the third hit. I went straight to this when I tackled the other side and had the old bearing out in less than an hour from jacking up the car to ready to install the new bearing.
Southern Ontario resident here. I just ordered a set and will try on my 15 outback. Going to try on the rears in the next week or so. I did both fronts 2 months ago. Biggest Pita. Only thing that would get them to budge was a 10lb sledge. Tried a bolt then a hub buster. The only result I got was a separated bearing. Then the 10lbs sledge showed up for work. 5 min of angered post setting hits and it budged. After that it was easy. I drove a cold chisel between the spindle and bearing assy. Dropped right out. Definitely not a job if your worried of brute force. I also wish I had big nasty as a backup.
@@joelveilleux98 don't forget lots of anti seize compound on the new one where it interfaces with the knuckle/hub whatever you wanna call it. Makes them easy out the next time around.
The real problem (besides the criminals spreading salt) is that the manuf wants it to be a failure. A coating of anti seize on the hub would protect it for life, but, no. That's doing something right. It should be federal law that all fasteners exposed to heat/water have anti-seize applied from factory.
@@TheGuruStud That'll jack prices up more. Also antizeizing them all when most will probably never be undone is kind of a waste IMO. It would be nice if they did at least key ones though. Regardless it should no way be a law. If a company decides to do it and succeeds all is well. Additional government fiddling is pretty much never the way. That being said if most manufacturers weren't s-bags, right to repair wouldn't need to be a thing either, so.... Kind of rambling.
You can use a few bolts that screwed into where the securing bolt holes, they need to be long enough to sit 10mm proud of the wheel flange and just sit your road wheel on and tighten your wheel nuts and that will act as a puller ....
Not that you really need them, but where do you get the little end caps, you label them "foots" in the drawing, to place on the end of the simple hex-head screw that you can buy in any hardware store?
Hi Eric, it looks like a good idea. but I dont know how well it would work on my dodge dakota I had the right front wheel bearing go out and to remove it from the knuckle it took a machine shop heat and 14000 lbs of pressure to break it loose
put the brrrapp tool on the boss on the right side and rotate the hub. it will literally fall out and you won't be cocking the hub on an angle and risking the sensor or damage to the knuckle. and if it's still stuck the boss/lug will now be sticking out beyond the knuckle and a couple braps outward. with a little practice you can do it in one motion. I do use forcing screws on drums every time tho..so much easier
Seen you using your own bolt to do this a long time ago, seen this tool on Amazon and got it 6 months ago, haven’t had a seized hub since. Maybe one day , lol
I did it that way on the rear of a Grand Caravan that lost rear wheel and 4 of the 5 studs broken, so the slide hammer method wasn't going to be a good option without punching out more broken studs and finding more bolts and nuts
Hey Astro. I just got this kit 2 weeks ago and used it for the first time. Unfortunately they broke the first time I used them. Both of the skinny bolts bearing tip shattered and they were used correctly. I reached out to Nicole and emailed her the details and picture but unfortunately I haven’t heard back from her. What’s the best way to get a hold of you guys?
That works like a hot damn. Shout out Astro and SMA, if Eric at south main or AvE haven't assessed a tools skookum factor, it likely isn't worth a try. This tool is clearly F-in' awesome.
@@SouthMainAuto here’s a little tip Mema taught me in replacing a hub kit. th-cam.com/video/61DPPc8g0_8/w-d-xo.html Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. Happy church goin’ Sunday morning to you Mr O.
We've been doing that in industrial repair applications for years now. With the cost of a hardened bolt, nut and a small junk socket that fits over the threaded end of the bolt, you can do amazing things using that kind of pressure. We call it a Jack screw. Its used a lot to separate two piece pulleys and clutch assemblies. Cool move. And your correct. You can go to church on Sunday not feeling guilty and with all your knuckles intact. An old boy, rest his soul, once told me he uses a 8 or10 foot piece of truck chain bolted tightly to a stud. Lower the axle or hub close to the ground and flick the truck chain like a whip or a towel and with a couple quick snaps, boom, its out! There's always more than one way to skin a cat.....that is, assuming it's on the menu! Lol. Later guy. Jpol.
Now available! amzn.to/3okbikH
👀
I'm here because it's a SMA video
got to get our sma fix for the week better than drugs i swear long time member got the coffee cups tools but no sticker ugh lol
I like the "You don't even feel guilty going to church Sunday!" bit at the end LOL
what does that sentence mean? is it a reference to some movie?
@@lordjaashin assuming it's because you didn't have to curse while getting the bearing out because you have the fancy astro tool.
It's hard for a man to speak to God on Sunday while Sundays are basically the only day he has to work on his car
Mr O has a lot of dedicated followers, good idea using him to demo a tool.
I'm here,to support Dr. O and his amazing work. 😊
Eric O's the MAN.... I always learn something new watching his videos.
SMA makes it look so simple....... lads and gents the great MR O!!!!!👍
Even when your hair is grey “ you learn something new everyday “ 👍
I'm a long-time SMA subscriber. Bought an Astro LED light for home garage use a few years ago after seeing it on SMA - I love it. Of course, now it's become the "family flashlight" so I'll probably need to buy a second.😁
MY PROCRASTINATING DAYS ARE OVER SINCE WATCHING THIS AWESOME TH-cam CHANNEL! THANKS MR. O 👍 FROM MICHIGAN THUMB RUST BELT!!!! 🔧 🔧 🔧
Yep!! Eric O is the only mechanic that when he says...."TRUST ME" I will TRUST HIM!!!
I've used this method as a last resort and now it's my first resort. It works.
I've used this technique a few times. My recent Snap On flyer had some overcomplicated contraption, one for Ford and one for Subaru. They were like 800 bucks each. I see these having a limited life span in a pro shop, but the simplicity and cost are superior.
What? No BIG NASTY needed? I'm amazed! Love SMA & Astro Tools!
Thank you @South Main Auto Repair LLC & ASTRO TOOLS! This tool kit works great! Just replaced both rear hubs on my 2013 Fusion. Knuckles are aluminum and the Hubs are steel. We know how that goes!! This simple, yet effect tool & method works like a champ. No more beating them out with a sledge hammer for me! I worked as a Ford tech. from 2006 - 2013 and I sure could have used these back then. Did dozens of Hubs to earn my living & had to Air Hammer & Swing on them just to get them to budge a little. This kit is so graceful. Lord Jesus, I am so thankful.
Just did this method on my Mazda CX-5 for both front bearings.. worked like a champ! they were stuck on good too..
Used this same method recently to pop off stuck rotors using a couple bolts and nuts from TSC.
I tried renting it with a manual puller a hydraulic puller nothing worked I heated it with a torch...wooww great tool I bought it for $40 canadian Yoolon 78834 Hub dismantling tool and in 5 min it was was removed it's wonderful thank you for the advice and I love your simple and easy video thank you
I wanted to say that hitting it with an hammer after it cracked loose would be enough.. but you are to honest haha nicely played sir!!
Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
Love your vids 50 % off the time all the time 🥳
Smartest move Astro Tools could ever make is getting hooked up with Eric O. If Eric says it's good you can take it to the bank !
I have one of these Astro Pneumatic Nano's it's a fantastic tool. I was able to do a thousand-plus dollar timing chain service on my car with it and I don't think I could have done it without it...the tensioner was really stuck and on the firewall side of the block.
Speaking of Astro, you guys need to make more bits for the Big Nasty air hammer. It was very hard to find a long (~18") bit of the right shank diameter, and even then the one I eventually got had to be ground down to fit correctly.
Yup, working on that!
I got an AJAX branded one because it was available
@@andrewgonyou9903 So did I, strangely, as a special online order from Walmart! It didn't quite fit, but I ground down the shoulder near the flared neck and it works OK. That one is a spade chisel, I'm still looking for a long version of a narrow hammerhead.
@@AstroTools You can't find this bolt kit anywhere. Out of stock on Amazon & don't know when it will return?
Just bought this set 78834. Thank you Astro Tools & Thank you SMA!
I'd purchased some Astro Tools stuff previously, but didn't really search it out as a first choice until I saw Eric use them on his channel.
Very nice. I could have really used this tool last year when I was removing the hub bearing to replace the rear wheel cylinder on my 92 Cavalier. It was the original hub and it did not want to come off. I finally got it off but spent a long time doing so and with a lot of swear words added in. I will definitely pick this up when it comes out.
You could try just a regular bolt and a nut and if you're feeling fancy some sort of padding so that the bolt wont leave a dent. I've used this method with just regular bolts and nuts and it works great! Instead of a boring chore bearing replacement is now way more enjoyable.
Nice to see @AstroTools posting again. Hopefully there will be more cool tool videos coming out soon.
It's good to know you can still swear if you want to.
I bought a T20AH a couple months ago and I have been enjoying it. I mainly bought it because of Eric's faith in your brand. Keeping that man happy is the best marketing you could ask for.
You my brother are amazing with the knowledge you have and the work you do.
Thanks for your help!
AstroTools: You can thank Eric O for the sales of two of the 40SL lights, one for me, one for my son. Had them about 3 years now, no issues.
I’ve spent many with many different techniques to get off a corroded hub and this looks amazing. I spent 1.5 days trying to get a ford aluminum knuckle off.
That sounds fun
I tried this with galvanized bolts and nut from my local hardware store. Stripped on me (cheap stuff). Ram 1500 has a terrible knuckle to attempt to do this. Hard to find a flat surface. Anyways used an air chisel and dug into the knuckle a bit, enough room for a regular chisel and a maul. Not ideal and I would have been pissed if I paid a shop to do that. But the damage was done by yours truly, everything mated up just fine with the new hubs went with SKF both side. It was a learning experience, I was maxing out at pads and rotors previously, which I've become quite good at over time. Live in the east coast of Canada lots of rustys and crustys up here commuting. Ever use a hydraulic ram between the knuckle and hub?
Got to have those because without the foot it is hard to keep straight
Great,
Made some jack bolts for removing bearing and sprockets on industrial equipment. I just used a smaller nut, like a flange nut to press against.
nice someone's brain's earned some money.
When I order the Wheel Bearing I also order the backing plate but you need to do the job today.
Some GM bearings have a slot so I use a 3/4" bolt by hand and it only takes a turn to bust it loose.
I'm outside Utica so I know your pain :-)
Thank You! That's gonna save me a lot of time in the confessional!
I tried your method I learned from another mechanic on youtube that did the same thing and it worked.
Thought for sure I found an SMA video. Nope, Astro Tools. Subed to them.
He is the best mechanic in the world. I actually have purchased one of your products solely because he used it. It's the Astro 52SL flashlight. Paying $50 for a flashlight is insane but it's been worth every penny. It was a life saver when the power went out too.
Astro needs to up the production of the thor ive been waiting for 2 months now and it's still on back order
Jersey tool had them in stock today
@@andrewgonyou9903 I'm going to check them out right now
@@Rpotts1999 Thors are in stock now but definitely sell out fast.
I really want to see how well these work on a Subaru rear wheel bearing, like the ones found on an '06 Outback. Those bearing assemblies get horribly stuck, I had to buy extra hearing protection because of how much time I spend using my air hammer on them.
(I live in Maine, btw. I thought my 2017 would be easy to separate, but salt belt rust proved me wrong.)
I tried this method and every other one I could find on the interweb when replacing both rear bearings on my 2017 Impreza. Nothing worked. The hardened grade bolts I used like this video BENT. I even borrowed a "Hub Buster" from a neighbor. Nope.
After spending a whole weekend researching and trying methods that failed, I gave up Sunday afternoon and started to remove the knuckle to take in to my mechanic to press it out. Removing the knuckle took about fifteen minutes.
When I had it all loose except for the parking brake cable, I had a thought. I placed the knuckle with the bearing facing down on two jack stands supporting the backing plate. I threaded the long pressing bolts (I had bought extra) through the knuckle and into the bearing from the back side. Then I hit these bolts with my four pound hammer to drive the bearing downward and out of the knuckle. The bearing popped loose on the third hit.
I went straight to this when I tackled the other side and had the old bearing out in less than an hour from jacking up the car to ready to install the new bearing.
or a '16 crosstrek 🤦🏻♂
I bet the bearings will still separate on those.
Southern Ontario resident here. I just ordered a set and will try on my 15 outback. Going to try on the rears in the next week or so. I did both fronts 2 months ago. Biggest Pita. Only thing that would get them to budge was a 10lb sledge. Tried a bolt then a hub buster. The only result I got was a separated bearing. Then the 10lbs sledge showed up for work. 5 min of angered post setting hits and it budged. After that it was easy. I drove a cold chisel between the spindle and bearing assy. Dropped right out. Definitely not a job if your worried of brute force. I also wish I had big nasty as a backup.
@@joelveilleux98 don't forget lots of anti seize compound on the new one where it interfaces with the knuckle/hub whatever you wanna call it. Makes them easy out the next time around.
@@joelveilleux98 Please report back with your results.
Eric and mechanics across the rusted hills of NY know the struggle. Steel hub, aluminum knuckle + 6 month's of road salt is junk
The real problem (besides the criminals spreading salt) is that the manuf wants it to be a failure. A coating of anti seize on the hub would protect it for life, but, no. That's doing something right.
It should be federal law that all fasteners exposed to heat/water have anti-seize applied from factory.
@@TheGuruStud That'll jack prices up more. Also antizeizing them all when most will probably never be undone is kind of a waste IMO. It would be nice if they did at least key ones though.
Regardless it should no way be a law. If a company decides to do it and succeeds all is well. Additional government fiddling is pretty much never the way.
That being said if most manufacturers weren't s-bags, right to repair wouldn't need to be a thing either, so....
Kind of rambling.
Astro should open a store on Amazon (Canada too) for the home-gamer...
They already have
You can use a few bolts that screwed into where the securing bolt holes, they need to be long enough to sit 10mm proud of the wheel flange and just sit your road wheel on and tighten your wheel nuts and that will act as a puller ....
Amen, glad for a non cursing video, God Blessing on you 🤠🙏
Wow. Good job. I'm gonna get myself those so I can do my wheel bearings
Used this exact technique and it works like a charm every time
Wish I had known of those before I had to torch one out and just replace the CV shaft years ago. Never even thought of that.
currently unavailable on amazon...definitely need these for the Rochester weather!!!
I always leave one of the hub bolts halfway in, put the socket with extension against the control arm or frame. Get in the car and turn the wheel
Not that you really need them, but where do you get the little end caps, you label them "foots" in the drawing, to place on the end of the simple hex-head screw that you can buy in any hardware store?
i'm gonna get that setup this week. i have a toyota so i know i'm gonna need this.
Mr. O is a Legend
This is the way, bare minimum tools and not hurting anyone or anything.
What a great idea.
I was always afraid of getting caught beating off something that did not want to be beat off in the first place.
that's what she said!
You could definitely get arrested for that.
... and that's why you need to go to church on Sunday
Hi Eric, it looks like a good idea. but I dont know how well it would work on my dodge dakota I had the right front wheel bearing go out and to remove it from the knuckle it took a machine shop heat and 14000 lbs of pressure to break it loose
Ive decided this is a muat have. Had to try to rig a way today for a really stuck and this wouldve saved me a ton of time
What's up with the Thor air hammer? You still making them?
Agreed and seconded. Where are the impacts and hammers? Been outta stock as fast as they go in on Amazon and haven’t come back in eons. Whattup?
@@monkeywrangler5200 I got my Thor impact wrench on summit racing it's cheaper over there
put the brrrapp tool on the boss on the right side and rotate the hub. it will literally fall out and you won't be cocking the hub on an angle and risking the sensor or damage to the knuckle. and if it's still stuck the boss/lug will now be sticking out beyond the knuckle and a couple braps outward. with a little practice you can do it in one motion. I do use forcing screws on drums every time tho..so much easier
I need to know when this tool Kit is going to be available again on Amazon
Waiting on hammers and impacts to come back in stock. Much like this, easy choice to buy! When they coming back?
Thor impacts are back in stock currently, but do sell out fast
@@AstroTools Can't for the life of me think of why😆
Tried something like this on a dodge 2500 and the unit bearing split in half. I was already expecting it though.
"And now you don't even feel guilty going to church on Sunday"
Got me laughing 😂😂
Seen you using your own bolt to do this a long time ago, seen this tool on Amazon and got it 6 months ago, haven’t had a seized hub since. Maybe one day , lol
I did it that way on the rear of a Grand Caravan that lost rear wheel and 4 of the 5 studs broken, so the slide hammer method wasn't going to be a good option without punching out more broken studs and finding more bolts and nuts
that was awesome, sir, thanks a million from michigan
When will the 498K be available?
I finally secured the famous Astro 1894 Thor impact gun! Thanks to Eric O. or else I’d never have known it exists!
Can't beat an Eric O demo 😁👍
Tried a few different tools, should have bought this one, but I am about 3/4 of the way through the hub cutting it off 😅
what are the feet made of? seems like these are sold out everywhere. couldn't I just buy a bolt and nut?
Thank you so much for this!
Hey Astro. I just got this kit 2 weeks ago and used it for the first time. Unfortunately they broke the first time I used them. Both of the skinny bolts bearing tip shattered and they were used correctly. I reached out to Nicole and emailed her the details and picture but unfortunately I haven’t heard back from her. What’s the best way to get a hold of you guys?
Very cool bro. Now it's gonna be a snap.👍👍
I like it for the FN awesomness!
I wish I had that when I replaced the hubs on my Subaru....
That works like a hot damn.
Shout out Astro and SMA, if Eric at south main or AvE haven't assessed a tools skookum factor, it likely isn't worth a try.
This tool is clearly F-in' awesome.
AvE's kinda fallen off the radar of late
Can we try this on a Ford explorer rear wheel bearing or a 2016 Subaru outback rear wheel bearing from the rust belt lol
I’ve figured this trick out of pure desperation a few years back!
Take my money......where can I purchase this
Ingenious, but a slide hammer works also!
Currently unavailable on Amazon.
This is a life-changer
Truly a pro tip.
Will this tool work on Asian cars and trucks let me know thanks
How do I buy ? Can’t find them on the internet
Thanks Mr O
@2:08 you talk about "no bee in". No bee in what?
No beating - no swearing ,,,
Awesome Eric O.
What’s the impact he’s using ?
Thanks ! Excellent!
these didn't work too good on my impreza, the PCD on the hub was too tight effectively push on the knuckle
guys and gals would that work on the dodge ram 4x4's bearing stuck in the thingy wow i think i need two sets
ERIC O and ASTRO tools for the win. Looks like a great tool we will see. Eric will definitely attempt to destroy them for science of course 😉 😀
What episode is this from
What a guy! Awesome vid. I love your vids.Say hi to miss O.
Nice! Thanks for sharing 👍
Great video thanks for the info
Great, but how will you press the new one in without a hub kit?
These are for use with bolt on hub assemblies only *not* press in style
@@SouthMainAuto oh - duh. Sorry bout that.
@@SouthMainAuto here’s a little tip Mema taught me in replacing a hub kit.
th-cam.com/video/61DPPc8g0_8/w-d-xo.html
Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. Happy church goin’ Sunday morning to you Mr O.
That is awesome. Wonder if you got an easy one though?
The white crap in the knuckle after the bearing pops out would suggest it wasn't going to come easy
We've been doing that in industrial repair applications for years now. With the cost of a hardened bolt, nut and a small junk socket that fits over the threaded end of the bolt, you can do amazing things using that kind of pressure. We call it a Jack screw. Its used a lot to separate two piece pulleys and clutch assemblies. Cool move. And your correct. You can go to church on Sunday not feeling guilty and with all your knuckles intact. An old boy, rest his soul, once told me he uses a 8 or10 foot piece of truck chain bolted tightly to a stud. Lower the axle or hub close to the ground and flick the truck chain like a whip or a towel and with a couple quick snaps, boom, its out! There's always more than one way to skin a cat.....that is, assuming it's on the menu! Lol. Later guy. Jpol.